i started seeing it in trees, plants, its everywhere! examples of its principle is all around you, and in you.
- - - -
July 20, 2006 9:58 AM
Anonymous said...
new water nfo for ret users at www.ret-water.blogspot.com,
new key-word for vortex-tube users: vortrap,
use it at google.com
August 04, 2006 11:36 AM
Anonymous said...
so will this jump up the def-jam charts ?
I dunno. Let's find out... (switchn to overdrive) -click-
Rollin'... in my 5.0, With my rag top down so my hair can blow, The voltage is on standby, costs of icin' too high, (Did you stop?) No, I just froze, by Freon - pursuin' temp'rature drop, Compressor's dead, yo, so I made a move, George J. Ranque, Hilsch-Ranque vortex in a tube!
Peltier's hot, like electrical bikinis, And I got no voltage from the Lamborghinis, Warmin' - cause I'm out thawin' mine, Got my compressor gauge, readin' PSI "9" Vaccuum - for the mods on the wall, Mods are actin' ill because they had their 8 LOLs Hissin' - through the compressor shell, I clamped the hose, but it was shot to hell, Ozone'z - burnin' up like real fast, Registration link at time-mag suckin' goat ass Readin' the Wiki, the 'pedia's packed, Thermodynamics 'bout how the fridge is jacked.
Third law on the scene - you know what I mean, A million RPM? Efficiency unseen, If it's a solution, this don't solve it Pump out the heat while the Hilsch-Ranque revolves it
those who want to build pressure up, in a vortex-tube, without having to pump it yourself.
should hear these words from the 1950 edition of the encyclopedia americana, waters p474:
tree-growth = crystalization? freeze-thaw cycle of absorbed water, or! 'efflorescence' (study that word) the forces produced during the slow but irrisistable growth of salt-crystals is of the order of 100,000 psi.
a force which is assumed by many to be the main cause of masonry disintegration.
vortex-tubes need atleast 100 psi: see exair.com model# 6025? the one you can take apart.
running air into a hot-spot, and then a cold-spot, is how some water-makers work.
the vortex-tube does hot and cold.
water that freezes in a rock can split that rock. you have seen it. my god, the answers are all around you. i will repeat this nfo one more time:
'efflorescence' the forces produced during the slow but irrisistable growth of salt-crystals is of the order of 100,000 psi.
a force which is assumed by many to be the main cause of masonry disintegration.
-
it sounds like cracks in the wall, trees that over-grow, and other things we call troublesome, have been trying to tell us the answer all this time. we should use these forces. not fight them.
go with the flow. man-kind is full of madness. somthing died in him. only j-su, he can fill it out. but god still says: will you trust me...
as for the tube, this little dude is going to do more than crack rock.
other news:
herd fire-fighters talking about vortex-tubes. they are already using them to keep the suit cool.
it seems you are right. i gathered all the ashes i could find, dumped it into an old wooden bucket, porued water over the top, and let it seep out the bottom.
a month later i had seep stuff. this stuff is usefull for soap making, but i got you message and decided to mix it with sand and toss it into a fire.
sure enuff, somthing like water started coming out of the fire. after i realized what it was i tossed water on it. it shattered into pieces and glass shot everywhere.
safty first, always wear eye protection and a mask, dont let sand dirt ceramics glass clay or anything else get into your eyes and breathing tubes.
im thinking this stuff could cover a dome-house or pour into a mold to make vortex-tubes. this is cool stuff, sealant for the tribe, and its almost like silicone gel. just dont do your hair with it.
if emma knows west africa than im going there. we can see what other rets are doing and test what this stuff will do on their houses.
news: this guy did excelent water study: randy johnson http://www.cyber-nook.com/water/Solutions.html
but i still say the black stuff (burnt wood) crushed and used as a water filter is best cuz
things around town are going to get so crazy when power downs.
you wont have time to think.
October 16, 2006 7:08 PM
Anonymous said...
got issues?where is you water-supply?who controls it?� whats in it?ok, lets change the subject.maybe we can chat. are you tribal ?
whats your part in the group. ?are you going to let friends hang. ?the power went out again,if there is no water, would they still be you friends? would they act like friends?
do you choose to wait until this happens?
or be ready when it does.it takes only one.to move many.we dont want to bore you, just control you.
so what do you want to talk about.? if they got your water,
you got no say.
�come now,did you really have somthing 'more'important to do today?i'd like to hear about it.for real.
Hellaballoo…n ?ATP? Running-late’ of the AsOf Tribe Vortex trube, using air not water. Take care of the air 2 the water compounds are not too far from it. Heat creates condensation, creates a vacuum2, will pull the cold air down quite forcefully? One drop of water in perfect repetition is an amazing machine. Old music boxes have wind up spinners too. Simil-ar to a willow branch wound tight maybe strung out and looming on possibilities of commercial aspirin. That was chased down by the Baer, then the communists moved in. When you move air as fast as you think you can it particularly and separately compounds. Some orbits will be thrown out and temporarily separated by what you really want. The molecules create their own atmosphere maybe. That ideally could sustain itself if the habit-at is not altered too much and is allowed to stay consistent or constant. As long as need B. C it is simple kids…just adjust the vibration; wheather it be up and down, in and out, or just pressurized for hot making. Why do caves seem more densed more than canyons?… ^ vs U The caves I come from are warmer and moist compared next to the dry air. Cool and contained. If the air in the root cellar is to slow, everything freezes, expands, explodes. That explosion causes heat too. The calories could make one fat. Ooo the pressure is mountaining… the particles are condensed and it is tight-errrr. And harder to move. Umm allright now. When air is slow it is cold, when it moves fast it is hott-er. The drip comes from near by water settling deeper due to atmospheric pressure created by outside Big Big vortextual attraction and compounding pressure inside causeing the fast guys to escape up while pushing the cold guys down. The struggle between the guys is what rings out the 2HO’s. Creating more drips and drawing more dripping. If I could draw this for I would, maybe I should. Water purification could be studied by stalactites and deposits of gold. My airconditioner is so seasonal and I like it and all but it drips consistently into my garden. Not sure how the Freeon works on my purple cabbage. It continues to grow, in fact it woke up first this year with these gorgeous little yellow flowers at the 5 ft mark.
Survival Mode: grab my string theory and create a vortex on The holy wood. FIRE! Make a hut in the arids. Dig a Hole, Drive a Pole, and tarp it with green or your hide. Thx sweat bath lodge. The smoke might infuse you though it does get disguisered dispersion from above. Looking like steam from a rainforest canopy. One cup of water might make more if collected properly in clay or skull. The drip drops on the flame create steam, create more pressure to condense the densed.
The B Side: Track 1- alcohol is fermented x. Track 2- soak me in alcohol and all my oils come up leaving the crap at the bottom in a suspension of liquids with the oils on top and separated quite neatly. Track 3- oil stays warm longer than water Track 4- rock stays warm longer than wood. ?burning rocks? When the sun goes down the heat is released from the rock rapidly, causing some dew moisture. Track 5- coal is wood-rock Track 6- Rock Paper Scissors/2rocks Track 7- rocc Track 8- The question truly is Where do you Find water? vs. How do you Make water? Conditions change due to atmosphere. So the answer is adaptive. Evolutionary?
paint807.txt - - - - v9-1-07 12pm, encyclopedia-nfo... 'paint' this nfo is bent for RET uses, tells you what we know, and attempts to sort stuff for your-own use.
paused at: mp7..add more re-c-pie to mp5
jump to: mp1 mp2 mp3 mp4 mp5 mp6 mp7
mp1: MY re-sons for typing this: mp2: your first paint-job mp3: pigs in cars mp4: warnings mp5: techniques mp6: more pigs and cars mp7: the big-view mp8: what i wood do.
better-paint: (well i sink so) mosaic plaster stone tile brick ceramics shellac Varnish Linoleum! bone Silica! silicates stucco enamel blood Compost! compos meenz: plaster for walls! i am not kidding. look-it-up!
Living-paint: plants animals self-coating objects manzanita: a dead-bush, yet its red-paint lives! what if this living-paint cood go down walls? or a shell.
Strange-paint: touch copper-wire to 220v-outlet... pow! -ALL- wiring near-it gets coat-ed with a strange copper-film, i can-t rub it off. where did the wire go?
did egyptians use zap-jars?
- end of mp2 - -
- mp3: ur@mp3: pigs in cars news about pigments, binders, thinners
Pigments: colors powdered from? there is three-kinds of pigment use-ful for paint. 3 little pigs: Opacity, Colored, Extentions
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Opacity: white-hiding, eg.titanium-dioxide, iz white-rock(quartz) a pig? Opacity: also meenz cloudy, you can almost see out\in.
Colored: a lump of pig you found offering color 'AND' opacity. it has two types: Natural and chemicaly-made.
Natural: -earths minerals dug-up.. or dyes of plants. (hair-dye,crayons,dirt)eg.red-iron-oxide,soils,white-earth, yel-slv-ore + gre-copper-ore,red,violet,brown,cinnabar, charcoal(burnt homes),ochers,indigo,Madder-root,etc.
Chemical: man-made by precipitaions in solutions of chemical-reactions. eg.zinc-oxide white-process,sulphate of lead,lithophone. oxides: metals eaten by oxygen, rusty metals+rocks exposed to air-sun-water-acid-fart-fumes tannic-acid from tea-leeves.. rots your teeth... eats... turns pigs into powder... makes a mess... you want it.
Extensions: lazy pigs reinforcing, extending, fortifing your paint. pigments mined from the earth, most are inert(meenz:do nothing) used mostly to 1.control consistancy, 2.sheen, 3.smoothness, 4.filling properties. this makes reeely-nice paint.
and thats the story of the 3 little pigs, Wit, color(Ed), and Lay-z.
-
pig-up-a-tree?
pigments can also be treed(classified) by 1.source, (where did you get it?) 2.color, (how many colors do you see?) 3.method of preparation. (how did you make it?)
only NATURAL pigments are available. until the 20th century. was this good or bad?... i dont know, i dont want to 'breeth' any of it. and yet its all around me! see mp4: warnings
-
remember: Paint... is pigs in cars (pigments in vehicles)
Lets try vehicles:
vehicles: contain binders and\or thinners.
Vehicles: mix's that can spread-and-bind the pigment onto a surface the way... you wanted.
-
BINDERS: is anything that leeves a film: eg.Resins egg-yolk some-plant-oils, varnish from acacia-tree-sap, lin, soybean oil. salad-dressing from a friends sandwich... etc.
THINNERS: helps carry pigment from storage-can to the surface you want painted. eg.Solvents,Reducers,anything Volatile eg.gasoline from your teachers car.
volatile: somthing that can carry the pigs for a while and then Evaporate, leeving the binder alone and exposed for permanent drying. eg.try Turpentine, Kero-gaso-lene, or Water.
-
more details for vehicles, driers, thinners p.109: see mp6
-end of mp3 - -
- mp4: ur@mp4: warnings:
record-and-store things by date, NOT-by-subject!
subjects,projects,topics,and your ideas-goals change.
dates do not.
-
example: a study called: water did on 5-07. (may-2007)
searched all my records for water-related nfo. and made a list of them.
2-06 5-06 and 8-06
-
dont move it.
just link to it.
this saves time, and space.
never try to change the past.
keep the new nfo (water-list) under the date it was made.
-
remember: move-things as-little as-possible
-
i will also be flashing words in front of you with no meening.
1.cuz i didnt want to type it all. 2.cuz your mind connects things.
it just needs the words -NOW-
so if you see word-banks, just-reed-it... dont think...
same thing with all media...
they plant words in your head.
-
to command and control millions of people...
you dont say anything...
you suggest things...
over and over...in many ways till they connect it themselves.
that way they dont forget. cuz it was 'their' idea.
that...
is what they wanted.
that... is dangerous...
next time you turn on the news... think... why are they telling it ...that way...
....why me.
-
hey, puzzles ARE good!
it makes a fine painting somthing YOU put together.
it makes a good-idea, someone elses.
it makes a message to the people, (buy my crap and kill joe)
the message-of the people, (we want crap and kill joe)
yes... but some people see threw it.
so they bring in drugs. and call it pain-relief.
now nobody knows anything. world-peace.
-
other warnings:
ISO.9002 meenz controled by the new-world-order.
ISO totaly controls you and everything. no mercy.
i seen it on paint-cans and powdered-milk bags.
you will not get away from US.
-
none of this informations is intended for drug-use(eating-it) oR making booms but it goes into bo-th.
-
good-nfo is always used for evil.
you draw your own safty-line.
-
all ? paints willl 'chalk'... time...age..everything.. turns to...powder...blows away... all around you, everything. you breeth it...cements...asphalts...hair..shoe-parts...car-fumes, molds, fugus, parasites, viruses, flues, keep your mouth covered. it is a sick-world... and this document isnt about water-falls and vortex air-purifiers. (sorry)
be-careful what-the-paint around you is made-of. (...do i got a choice..? its on everything!)
same with masonry and ceramics...dirt..rocks..hay work with a filter, mask, eye-protection, and plenty of air-flow..(ventilation)
sink eye-protection when hammering Eny-thing like rocks hitting rocks... boing! sharp-things fly... out-goes your eye.
-
insentive: Am i sposed to pay you for reeding this...?
getting out of becoming bacon... is... your-pay.
-
insentive: You 'NEED' to be on-fire. b4u start wanting ways to stay cool.
imeen-it, you got to walk-off someweer weer you got no-protection...
and stay.
you cant reed this if you got no reason to.
you cant be where your safe from sun and cold,
and then try to paint your way out.
you got no reason too. you get lazy. you forget.
you go from room to room, comfy to comfy so you got no reason to go, no reason to grow.
this is very-dangerous, this is your warning.
cuz your in it
-NOW-
how different things are... just a few steps away.
-
go 5-minutes in a direction you never go, out where you can let the sun and weather get-you.
be happy... start fighting with a friend named: (bacon)bad-conditions.
it makes you tuff and smart...
cuz if you get lazy... it wont be long... someone will take you to places where you got-no choice... and got-no chances... bars...doors... you didnt want.
how differnt things are... just a few inches...
from...
freedom.(breeth it) -
-end of mp4 - -
- mp5: ur@mp5: techniques: i got what i-want. but how do i use it? (see also mp7 recepies) well..um... look what others do\did: eg.cave-drawings, Egyptian, ochers mixed with water see books 'Industry' manufacture extraction from... stone-pallets crude-brushes, grinding pigments with oils.
paint = pigments,binders,thinners eg. beeswax mixed with dyes. Tempera and oil-paints, acrylics?
water-colors are water-thinned
manufacture: man-made, the process, see 8-20p3of4(mp7)
-
some recepies are in mp7
-
lets start with watching things... decay. we are going to dig into the garbage... like we never did before... see anybody you know?
first we got fresh plants... smells good.
-
then: time-germs and heat eat-at-us... and it... ...smells sweet...alcohol esters
-
more time: and it starts making its own heet, now it stinks...acids..destroying metals. methane-production is at-peak now. vinegar... -
later: it stops bubbling and stinking, but i can still smell it, stable and brown. is this poop?
-
not to later(one moonth): it is very black very condensed, stable, smells like..gasoline or coal, peat,compost,plaster,asphalt ...hmmm C-H or H-C ? eat it and see. (no dont)
-end of my decay-story..(i call it trash)
notice at every-stage you get things alchol, acids, heet, poop(plaster), coal.
and each can be used to make somthing else.
coal can be 'cracked' and separated into tons of other things. see 'petroleum'
-end-
if you condense-anything? it makes good plaster for a shel-ter.
-
other notes considered 'techniques' p130 polychrome,FRESCO:water-dissolved colors on wet-plaster. to a wall or surface place:six coats of lime-plaster. fibers are primed to prevent pigs from rotting them.
parasitic p290 sanitize-cover the out-house! techniques:p129 clay mixed with hair and straw,smoothed,fine white clay added ,kept moist,outlined in red, first 3 coats contain sand,last 3 marble dust,each coat placed before the last can dry, glue-casein,white of egg wax used to bind.
catacomb art,mosaics,fresco, died 1400's when oil-paints improved, revived 1932 as an art.
Buon-Fresco (true-fresco):surface must be free of salt-peter or potassium-nitrate(KNO3) fresco-plast is lump-lime slacked in water, or hydrated-lime, Lime is 'slacked' by mixing it with water and working it till soft like butter, sand must be clean and sharp,not smooth-stones, beach-sand will not do, washed and dry, putty mix with sand, apply to wall,scratch surface of each layer to provide grip for the next layer coat, on dry-walls add egg,casein,or glue.
Driers: metals lead maganese Cobalt! may prepare it separatly into liquid, then add it to vehicle
Thinners: thin thick paints: try turpentine(pine) petrol-spirits(gasoline?) Naphtha(coal) or try Wine alcohol (drugs) or... Water (the best solvent)
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p.108 pigments: (showing only parts i feel are useful) started with 8 papers, then re-did it down to 2-papers best-of-the-best...er.. imeen stuff i-feel is easier.
want? the 2-papers? : see mp7
MY word-banks grew till i seen a-word that 'looks'... um... ? better-to me?... than 'paint'. (is it?)
you are reading my-best paper 8-24-07 pigments and a word-bank:
PIG-ments: (jump to the color-u-want) WHITE extenders RED yel-org-brw...blu-green and BLACK! + metalics.
WHITE:lead,zinc titanium Dutch-Process: cor-rode a lump of pigs metals for 3-moons by exposing it to..? fumes of acetic-acid(lemons-tea? softdrinks) and C20 from fermenting tan-bark.
try tannic-acid from tea-leaves (4-bags-tspoons) see b2b,ink.p343, then wash and dry. -OR-...wash and churn-with-oil till oil displaces the water, also called lead-in-oil paints... collect lead-fumes in cloth-bags. (lead is bad, but its everywhere... in clays aluminu? in wiring, in x-mas wires, etc.)
-OR- furnace(burn in a can)zinc(toilet-parts, plumbing?) till vapours unite with oxygen = zinc-oxide (is safer than lead-anything), collect vapours in bags. then where it over your head.(no dont)
Area-ideas(stuff related and neer-you): zinc-pipe lead-wire-coatings(xmas),tea,see b2b-notes8-22p4of4..(see mp7)white-washes snow-roof glop cans ash? white-cloth? try bleached-writing-paper, wood plastics scraps earths crushed quartz rock
-others:(same methods)lead,zinc-sulphide by precipitation and cacination, lithopone: interior-paints, a composite of zinc+barium sulphide,titanium-oxide..a precipitate, calcinded to form titanium di-oxide,Lead-Titanate:high-opacity+durability,Antimony:Roasted,fumes collected.
Extenders: re-places pigments that are too-expensive or to-opaque..(a filler) OR... in size or shape prevents hard-setting of pigments stored for long times. some give films 'tooth' or improove paint-durability
eg.examples: - Barium-Sulphate, Calcium-Sulphate... as they occur naturaly or chemicaly. - Calcium-Carbonate: yes! chalk putty limestone or precipitated varietyz - Magnesium Silicates: yes! fibrous form = talc (sniff..hey? i got that) flake-form = mica (a rock?) - Silica: wow! various forms finely-ground for use in Paints. - other: alumina china-clay diatomaceous-earths (wtf? see word-bank)
-
RED pigments: iron-oxide as-is, -OR...60% Calcium-Sulphide, toludine=organic-dye, light-fast(resistant), Madder-root: alizarine others: Tuscan-red lake-red and Maroons
YeLLow-Orange-Browns:
ocher=clay, stained with 15% hydrated ferric-oxide(rusted-iron), Sienna-color= use more oxide than ocher
BLUEs: expensive rare useless...except Phthalocyanie (cyan?) sky-blu? made by modern-chemistry (not natural) is tintable light-heat-acid-alkali fast(resistant) AND non-toxic(?)...others: COBALT! and dye-stuff from plants
GREENs: Chromium-oxide= fast-strongest known (and easy2get! chrom is on most old-cars)... oxide=rusted...eaten.. hydrated-chrome makes Guignet(a-color) see dye-stuffs from plants..grass?, Paris-green: is poisonous = copper-arsnic-aluminum oxides.
-
BLACKs: Ahhh! now-we-are getting somewhere. see mp7.
Lamp-Black: hydro-carbons (bitumin?) or carbo-hydrates? burned and smoke collected on-to a plate held over the flame(candle).
Carbon-Black: gasses burned and fumes collected on a plate or cloth. or use as-is.char-coal blacks, burnt-wood, acrylics?
Bone-Black: calcining bones without any air...(maybe a little?)
Graphite-Black: if you can find these hard coal-rocks... use as-is.
Iron-oxide: magnetic, used in metal-primers... i collected bags of this black-stuff out on the play-ground, you run a magnet into the sand and all this black-stuff sticks to it.
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Metalic pigments: Flaked: some metals are easy to flake. these are: aluminum(cans) copper bronze(see junk-yard) lead and zinc (do-not-grind flakes, add it to the mix last) process: ??? see mp7
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WORD-BANK: ( the words i was wanting to knoe better ) primer,cellulose,hydrocarbons,opium,acrylics,polymer,methane,silica,diatoms, processes:precip condens calcinat,... salts,calcium, resins, other:carbide furnace resonate electro,... glycerin,amino,enamel,Lino
-start-
primers: are paints you use first, on difficult places that got no grip, like smooth stones and metal-surfaces... use metal-primer-paint. (add bike-rubber?) than you can use the paint you want... over it.
Opacity: milky glassy cloudy translucent but not transparent - Cellulose: a carbo-hydrate with fibers, eg.plants, wood-pulp, cotton. used for making paper,plastics,lacquers,booms. Cellulosic-compounds: ??? viscose: sticky,slow-flowing,thick brownish-liquid prepared by the inter-action! of cellulose with sodium-hydroxide and carbon-di-sulfide. mostly cellulose-xanthate, forced it threw small holes into a cuprammonium-solution which decomposes the xanthate...leeving threads of cellulose-fiber(viscose-rayon) or used as-is for trans-parent wrapping-paper (cellophane) - Hydro-carbons: (H+C)a larrrdg-class of compounds (things that-were living) made of hydrogen and carbon (water and plants), anything? condensed-sorces: natural-gas, petroleum, and coal. make your own? see: compost or methane-digester(no-air)journeytoforever.com hydrogenated-soybean-oil (water-blown carbon)...marsh-mellows... carbo-hydrates: (C+H)cabonated-water, condensed sources: oil sugar tar raisens(grapes) honey flour asphalt gasoline wine beer?
OPEC: a combine of all nations that produce petroleum, dictators. opium: dried laytex from unripe-capsules of the opium-poppy a habit-forming drug - Acrolein: a volatile liquid ch2=chcho, decomposed glycerol Acrylics: related to the acid, its fiber, or its resin acrylic-acid: get by oxidizing acrolein acrylic-fiber: various fibers obtained by polymerization of acrylonitrile acrylic-resin: various thermo-plastic resins got by polymerization of esters of amides of acrylic-acid or.. methacrylic-acid (from methane?) acrylonitrile: liquid(condensed)poisonous,colorless,flamable ch2=chcN used in the polymerization of plastics and fibers. - polymerization: a chemical-reaction of two or more molecules-types spin and twist around each other when drawn out of the hot soup... much as pizza-cheeze-strings form when pulling it away from the pizza. internal-spinning-braiding and hardening occurs. polymide-resin: strongly heat-resistant, used as insulator,adhesive,semi-conductors
polymer: molecules that form long-chains braids(so small cant see,vortex) natural polymers: Cellulose, lignin, nucleic-acids, hair, horn, many more. synthetic (man-made by chemicals): Nylons,rayons, and rubbers! polyethers: dihydric alcohols(esters?) pulled out of a viscous-liquid. polyethylene: one of the thermo-plastics:light flexible resists-chemicals used in food-packaging(look in trash) and insulation... floor? foams. - bitumen: any of the many viscous or solid mix of H-C hydrocarbons or some of their relatives that come from playing with nitrogen or sulphur..the 'other-side' of the plant-goo family. better known as..Asphalt..or.. road-crap. bituminous-coal: soft coal rich in volatile hydrocarbons bituminous-paint: black? paint including bitumen, used for rust-proofing and water-proofing iron-pipes, metals, fence-posts, materials you will be using under-ground, or above-ground. try a substitute: mix charcoal-powder into soy-bean or lin-seed oil.. makes a durable? PAINT. - methane: (not the drug) the gasses that bubble up from rotting plants and animals under water... better known as... Natural-GAS. h+c+c+c+c or ch4 - hey? how come all the above words sound like the same thing... each is said a little differnt... hmmm. they are all plant-goo: ch-ch-ch cchh hc-hc-hc i think i will make a pile of plants myself... anything that was living. and let it rott..compost, learn how to compost, try one without air... under water...rott sewage, trash, peat, crude-oil... leeve it in a trash-can of water...ferment...alcohol-esters...see those home-made diesel-gasoline kits you can buy now. (biofuel)its all the same.. get my own black condensed rotted(with or without air) glop started and try to make some things. or use it as-is... yuck.. it stinks like...garbage... sniff sniff...hey! gasoline! but without lead, dry it out and use it as coal? charcoal? is this sanitary? keep yourself protected... see mp4 - words that feel more-close to what i reeely want: (get me out of weather) not organic, not from plants... that sounds better, sanitary. solid. - petrify: to turn an organic structure into stone, or hard-as-stone by replacing(quickly) the organic-tissues with(listen to this) deposited-silica ,agate, and\or calcium-carbonate(plants+milk?bones burnt together)in solution. see Mt.ST.helen or other volcanic-explosions, things petrify...instantly...trees,people(even dogs while they are still standing!) how about mummys? now i-am petrified.. (numb with fear or horror)
you dont need a good shel-ter, build a bad one and then petrify-it. Opal: hydrus-silica(water+sand) uses as a gem Ores: cavities where minerals are found, dug-up ooze: infusion of bark, mud-saturated water.
silicone: any polymer of R2SiO, R=a hydrocarbon chemicaly-joined with quartz joined=boiled zapped arch-welded electro-magneticly fired? etc. uses:lubricant,resin,water-resistant film water-glass: ??? !!! Silica: silicon-dioxide. SiO2: quartz agate jasper flint-stones a metal-salt usualy insoulable, makes-up the largest portion of earths-crust. verrry-abundant...lots of it. sand? an impotant part of glass cement brick and other building-materials. SILOCIS: lung-disease caused by breething silica, masonry, ceramics, dirt. - diatomaceous-earths:breaks at right-angles when hit? //a single-celled-algae 'plankton' marine and fresh, important. //formed from the silicous cell-walls of dead-organisms.//a light silicious, friable deposit of diatom remains,phsical-chemical properties allow it to be used as a filter,refractory(heat-resistant?), insulator,absorbent(desiccant?),etc. depssits from sea-beds... lake-bottoms? may be easy for a RET to find. even on the tops of mountains and in desserts where...ancient seas left deposits,
- Industry: books that describe how people extract and use things see mineral\industry... geology
precipitate: chemicaly? cause somthing to become insoluble and separate from the liquid-solution. // to cause to condense and fall to the bottom (eg.vapour becoming rain) // a solid substance that separated from a solution as the result of a chemical?reaction...like a crystal-growing kit, or salt-deposit-on-string-wire project, or electroplating?, //a crytaline solid that can be separate from the soulution by filteration... want somthing solid to come out of this mess?... try a filter.//a deposit of water-vapour into a liquid or solid form.
condensed-milk: not just by evaporation, but by 'adding' somthing...sweet.chchch c-and-h condenser: cold evaporator: hot insoluble: will not dissolve or desintigrate in water.
calcining: a physical or chemical change in a material(not organic?) by heating-very-high without fusing, drives of volatile parts, convert to powder or oxidizing... sounds like brick-making: clay+straw burned hard...cannot become clay or straw again... for a long long long time.
example of calcining and precipitation: (opposite? methods) titanium-oxide..a precipitate, calcinded to form titanium-di-oxide
calcareous: soils containing calcium-carbonate or limestone..(farmers-fields) or things related to chalk vitamin-d2 calfierous: things producing or containing calcium...snails? bones? lime calcification: conversion to calcium-carbonate \\disposition of insoluble calcium-salts in a tissue...petrified.\\\a process by which surface-soil is supplied with calcium
calcify: too change into calcium-carbonate or calfierous state by re-action of calcium salts.\\ to harden and become calcareous. calcite: a mineral hex-crystal of calcuim-carbonate: chalk marble limestone iceland-spar stalactites stalagmites - salts: salt: salt-cake: salt-glaze: +silica . glaze! salt-pan: - calcamine: a white or colored wash for walls or ceilings. calcination: calcine: calcium: calcium bicarbonate: calcium carbide:heat together lime and carbon in an electric furnace - calcium-carbonate:an insoluble salt CaCO3 used for quicklime and cement, natural-form is calcite see also!!! calcium ---- :chloride,cyanamide,hydroxide,phosphate,silicate,sulfate, calc-spar: calcite - Resins: any plant-secretions (blood,zits?) eg.pine,fir,tropical-trees, used mainly for Varnish, printing-ink, plastics, as a Binder...gum\\also a larrge class of synthetic-resins chemicaly made by polymerization used as plastics,Varnishes,adhesives,ion-exchange..filters? - carbide: electric-furnace:see carbon-arch-light welder red-books resonate: everything has a frequency... electro-magnetic: the force that holds atoms and rocks molecules compounds together... disturb the electromagnetic pulses? - glycerin: glycol: glucose: - amino: amide: alcohol: esters: - ENAMEL: is ? pigment+Lacquer ? - Linoleum: floor-covering,canvas coated with oxidized-linseed-oil mixed with resins and fillers..eg.corky Linocut:a picture or design, cut into linoleum, used as a printing-press linoleic-acid: unsat fatty-acid important to animal nutrition linseed: the seed of flax for oil,medecine,emollient,demulcent linseed cake: part after oil is pressed, for feeding cattle. lint: used to dress wounds. - lion-hearted: brave as a lion. - liparoid: fat-like,shiny,lipoid lipid:larrrge-grupe of organic-compounds:includes: fats waxes phosphatides if you add carbohydrates(C&H-sugars) and protiens... these 3 make-up the main factors of living-cells...living?
- weeehoo (wow!) the world around you just got small.
-
everything you see... is made of three...
just mixed different ways... to fool you.
hmm...different ways: see mp5 see mp7-recepies -
i can go a step further and say everything (3) is water (1).
the spirit of god moved upon the face of-the-waters and said...
let there be...
-
a machine that can make anything... just add water.
why not water? evolution meenz: from simple to more complex...right?
-
...and give it life ?...umm.. i dont know... so far... there is only one.... god.
-
and many de-see-vrz...
- end of mp6 - -
- mp7: ur@mp7 the big-view - 8 pages of notes, re-did down to 2-pages - it is a small-look at -ALL- i got in-to b4 choosing words to type this document on 8-27-07 (paint807.doc)
if you find somthing good we can start: mp8
mp7 is a mess.. i tried everything:
- - paper-one - - p1.of4 paint=pig,old\new paints p2.of4 encyclopedia-scan of related-words seed,silage,t.,u,var.,w..,linoleum.!etc. ( and its all related )
p.3of4 do-it books, ency.notes on Lacquer(includes recepies)Varnish.. p.4of4 more recepies home-made and links to even more.
- repeets of 8-20p.4of4 petrol-story RAW.AGriculture 1920's crack,ethylene to Aromatics, chlorene from salt?
words: make-solid, use-what-is, condensed, trash, water-proofing, things-that-leev-film, spirits, kaolinic, carbonmonoxide+hydrogen is systhesis-gas, methanol,ammonia, examples from bugs, plants,history,shapes,geology,porcelin.
errosion: find out what it wants.. let it make a shel..4u.
- -
p.2of4 preview... of notes 8-21-07 seeds p.568 sea-shells.p684 liquid-calcium carbonate from the flesh! ...not from the fire. furfural, legumes shingle ship.p.718, SILAGE.p819, SILICATE.p823.CONCRETE.p468,sodi,sulph, COKE,COBALT..blue,clay,COAL,compost,corn ,cordage,cork
-mental-trip as my search continued: my ideas go paint2varnish-to-stucco-to adobe-to-Linoleum-to-plastics-to- silicates-to-trees,blood,bone,i-quit!
-words:sesame-seed,shellac,cellulose, phenol,enamels,shale+SANDSTONE, lightning,military,trenches,holocaust, lichen-plants(tuff-lifers live),wood concrete:water,cement,sand,gravel silica is 40% of all rocks,25%common. silicates is the most abundant thing on earth, next to oxygen...
bituminous: meenz organic material
- -
p3of4.8-22-07 ency+red:do-it-self books pick items most in-reach, order-it by least-effort.
- tree-seal:45%asphalt(road), 15%siliceous material(sand?),40%water. - ency:LACQUER-notes:impregnable to... sap of sumac-tree. LAC:insect.resinous, veneered,reciepies:wine-alcohol.p619 and add gunpowder(cellulose-nitrate)
-OR-1.qt(wine?) to 1-half-pound gum-shellac age-it 3-days,strain, -OR- maple(or-pine) based,paint,METAL-leaf,apple-wine=old grape
-Lacquers: =1.cellulose-compound,2.Resins, 3.Placticizers for Flexibility.
mixed in a balance of:solvents and non-solvents to slow it. add pigments for:color,opacity,and feature:heat,light,chemical resistance, and\or more rubbery. wont chalk.
-Uses:auto,furniture,PIGMENT and LACQUER mixed together is... ENAMEL?,asphalt,rubber see:LEATHER\artificial+textile-Industry, ethyl-cellulose.lac is NON-Toxic
-encyclop:varnish=gum OR Resin + solvent is three-types:1.Spirit, 2.oleoresinous, 3.Water-type , manufacture-method + uses, Many Use-Names
-Notes from paint-can(see also 8-8-07.txt) Elasto-Seal UNDER-COAT-primer,phone: 800-345-0809 not for sunlight,yet..o-k-4 drinking-water uses:containers, it is a water-base ACRYLIC-laytex. ISO.9002 meenz controled by the new-world-order.
-words: Tree-seal (45%asphalt,15%sand,water) is My substitute for cement... this brings concrete...into my reech, cuz i didnt have portlant-cement...(the missing ingredient)
-words:Varnish: a solute of gums OR Resins with a solvent. solvent types:1.spirits, 2.oleoresinous,3.water.
what remains after volatiles are evaporated: 1. condensed solution of Resin: natural-resins: Lac,damar,Manila,Rosin,tree-blood,your-blood, synthetic-resins:UREA(chicken-poop?)formaldehyde, vinyl-resins,acrylic-acid resins,chlorinated-rubber, rubber is coal+nitro...
manufacture: Resin and solvent is churned together, except gloss-oil:400'F+slacked-lime, uses: on playing-cards,papers,traffic-paint,ships, nitro-cellulos-blends..(boom!)
try also endothermic-reaction of powdered-aluminum, and rust(iron-oxide)..scratch a soda-can..makes heet. horrible-heet..melts rail-road bars...dont breeth.
2.oleoresins: a mix of 1.resins,2.oils,dryers(usualy cooked) in a volatile(thinner)liquid, oxygen(air) is needed to dry the oils,
Drying Oils:your-area type or linseed,perilla,tung,oiticia, if dehydrated(air-blown)acid-treated:castor,soybean,fish-oil can be used.
method:in pots stainless-steel or aluminum,3'x3',oil+resins stir-cook at 450-600'F, watching-drips for desired results, then...cooled,thinners added,filterd,aged,settled,25%Rosin lost in fumes.
many use-names: SPAR-paint(tuff!),flat-paint,air,bake-type,metal-paints
- -
p.4of4 a continuation of 8-22-07...
3.water-varnished: 6oz.shellac to 1 and one-half oz.borax, boiled to each pint of water.
glazing-varnish:egg-white + water, preserved with acid or thymol and add bichromate(chrom) of potash to help is resist-water better.
crystal-water varnish: 1.lb gum-arabic to 1.lb glucose, to each 3-pints of water, see also:chemical-industries.
- sum it again
- non-organic water-proof words:???
- Home-made paints,white-wash,inks formulas from BACK-to-BASICS book by Readers-Digest (see public-library) includes:stain-removers,cast-iron cleaners,stove-putty, pest-deterents, and repelents.
b4u forget whats all around you... study non-organic things..
dusty-floors:scatter damp leaves OR fresh-grass over it b4 sweeping.
p.342practicle Formulas for around home:
Pest-deterents: - fly-paper:resin+castor-oil, mice hate peppermint, fleas hate PENNROYAL, insects-hate FEVERFEW(herb) boil and put on skin.
Glues and pastes: flour-paste:cold water blended, stirring till boiled. wall-paper:add ALUM powder
white-china cement:gum-arabic dissolved in water, add plaster of Paris, no heat, very-strong, except in hot-water.
cast-iron-stove putty: powdered wood-ash, powdered fire-clay, and salt + enuff water,dries-hard, needs replacing yearly?
fire-proof cement( for cast-iron stove-cracks): add enuff egg-whites to hydrated-lime, then add iron-fillings (rust?) Improoves with age and repeated heatings..
Old-fashion Milk-Paint: 3tbsp.vinegar, to 4 cups milk,heat gently till curdles, then 1.oz slacked-lime.
Make P-H.balanced...if too acid, add more lime, if too alkaline(caustic?) add more sour milk.
Next mix in 2.lbs of whitining(clay?) then some pigment... makes a soft-flat-finish, not durable. coat with shellac,(linseed-oil?)
-
Glazed white-wash: boil 3/4ths-pound of Rice + half-pound sugar in 7pints water, till rice desolved,heat-remove, add one pint of raw-skimd milk, then mix in hydrated-lime till consistency is like thin-paint.
almost all known formulas use slacked-lime, and zinc-oxide for whiten-ner.
-
your own pigments: boil colored-earth in plenty of water for hours, strain out organics and stones, allow sediment to settle, pour-off water,set residue to dry inn shallow pans, pound-fine-ly in mortar, sift again b4 adding to paint.
-
Paint-smell Remover: handfulls of dry hay, (older the better) immerse in water, shake- out and set in shallow pans around the freshly-painted room, dampen the hay as soon as it drys out. Moist-hay absorbs oily-vapours.
-
Permanent Black-Ink: 8.oz.honey, 1.egg-yoke,1/4th oz.gum-arabic. Add enuff lamp-Black to get a stiff paste.
-
Brown-Ink: 1-half cup water to 4tea-bags (4tsps) steep 15.min, stir to extract tannic-acid, strain,let cool b4 bottling.
-end-
-end of papers 1-of-2-
- - paper two - -
p1of4 v8-19-07 Rain-proof things collect time people-roofing shel-spot structure methods,paint is:condensed-anything?
-naybrs-trash:gums, sun-tested, seen manzanita-plant = living-paint previous-efforts(look at past papers) sort mix test:small-samples, but make many, see historic-examples?
-back-up:think-b4u-sink, besides-paint, what else..? other, resistant ABRAM ADAM NOAH pitch?
pigments:white oil:dutch-process, methods:fumes of acetic-acid and carbon- dioxide.. zinc-vapours,extenders:reduces,prevents, improves, Black-pigs,Metalic,Red,OXIDE, uses,cant,Root,clay,yellow,TOXIC,blue, COBALT,GREEN
-making mix precipi.binds = paint =p.109
-vehicles: oils milk driers:cobalt Thinners: water,Turp,Petrol,Naphtha Technique:p.129e how + images
-end-
- -
p3.of4:PAINT manufacture 8-20-07 manufacture method: a little vehicle is added to the pig and grind with stones cold then vehicle-remainder add last, if flakes are desired, dont grind-flakes, flakes act as a leaf-pile does..very water-repelent..if using a ball-mill, must do it in batches,
bodied-oil meens thinkened by blowing with air, or evaporation condensed, boiled-oil does not meen boiled(hot). xcopy this: primer: for surfaces not-of-wood,vehicle of rubber-resins for use on concrete(alkali)
-porch or deck:vehicle hard-drying,weater-resistant.
-interior flat-wall paint:varnish or boiled-oil(a type of varnish),zinc,titantium
-FLAT-paint(contains more pig than vehicle) so it looks not shiny.low durability.add oil?, Porch,interior,etc.
-Emulsified-Resin paint:Resins-in-oil varnish form, emulsified in water, then used as vehicles for pigs, used on plaster or masonry yet not cured,asphalt-shingles,roofing,odorless,drys-quick exterior-type,good durable
-latex-paint: binder is synthetic-rubber(use bike tires?) for interior plaster-use, dries quick as emulcified-resin,or casein-paint,used as... resists washings.and alkalinity in plaster.
-casein-paint: oldest of paints,skim-milk or milk-curds(not whey?)Lime,and colored earths,store as powser or paste, casein is the binder 10% in dry-state (powder) paints,(but how much can i get? whats related to it?)flat-finish
-calcimime:Chalk and glue,sold as powder,add water,interior,temporary, must remove old-layer before new is used.
-cement-paint:mainly portland, pigment,add a brittle-reducer, for damp-masonry uses, keep damp for hours to let cement-water work.
-Metal-powder-paint: flaked or powdered copper,bronze,aluminum,lead, gives film water-resistance and opacity, leafing(flakes) decrease by time mixed(grinded?) with varnish, so they shood be are kept separate, the powder and the varnish, which created a dust-hazord, past-form is safer.
-Metal-primer-paint:for metal-surfaces,rust-resistant pigs are used.
-ship-bottom paints:anti-fouling,poisonous,mercury-oxide,cuprous -colors-in-oil:??? -Putty:85%chalk,15%linseed-oil for filling cracks,windows,holes..(a cauk?)
-ency:petroleum trapped-plants+animals out of 100gallons of crude you can get: 44gasolene,34feul,8asphalt-coke,6ke, 3-gal.lubricants and 3-gal.lost by xfer total:100gal.
simple useable RAW grain coal CARBON sugar...all old methods, but in 1920's replaced by new processes fermintation catylitic-cracking,distillation of..
-to make hydro-carbon products: RAW: use as-is inter-mediate: made during a process end-use: the product desired
very hard to tree(classify) cuz you can take many alternate-roots to get the same product!
always alternate process-paths to:
ETHYLENE: the greatest,simple,reacts.. Propylene: polymer PETE HDPE bottles ACEtylene: old way by calcium-carbide, but also from...reacts with.. forms.. vinyl-acetate-or-chloride4adhesives garden-hose, also gotten from COAL COKE via Calcium-carbide Coke and carbon for electrodes process
METHANE: to SYNTHESIS-GAS, also a bi=of ace...also found in nature. Sulphur: another basic raw-material used to make many things ARomatics: benzene,toluene,xylene from... for solvents feul TNT ANHYD:in paints plastics DACRO-fiber
- in 1932 plastics were\are cellulose-acetate and 60% wood-pulp
FURFURAL:corn-cobs,cotton,seed-hulls,oat-bran it-can replace FORMALDehyde in many recepies. (whenever you see-need that word) for-from methanol gas-coal or petroleum for imitation-leather, treat with tan-bar tea? from the woods. RE-taliation.
-end-
- -
well thats it.. all 2-papers
and it had words i did not think to try.
words found no-wer else in this document: KNO3 Borax ships Furfural and anti-fouling and
Tunisa-architecture: try www.archnet.org
all use-full-stuff... when your surviving on things that n-ever change.
shel108.txt - - - - v1-8-2008. 8pm survival-shelter-construction for RET users.
You dont know what-a-re-leef it is to-be lost in a wilderness and then suddenly find two big boobs standing up in the bushes.
its very dramatic, and i dont ever get over it. and with no pics... this is the best way to describe it.
think two eggs standing up-right.
-
why bother telling you how to make a shelter out of dirt?
cuz its easier to do it now b4 one hand gets blown-off, oR you got only a pees of a hand to work with.
and you say: that wont happen to me.
- (see warning at end of this document) ( inspiration for new shelter ideas came from www.thinkgreenbuilding.com ) -
this type-of shelter comes from the idea that it is easier to build two small t-p, then one big t-p.
two small domes, connected by a hall-way.
from above it looks like a figure-8.
the base-wall is on gravel or some kind of drainage, paked hard by a rod or tamped with a heavy...?
i just walk on the top of it.
the gravel helps you get away from the ground. earth-Moisture wants to travel up your wall, and a cold floor wants to suck all the heat out of you.
Gravel wont rott and it makes an air-space... which stops damp and cold problems... alittle.
try also plastic then mud-coated straw for insulation, each straw is covered with mud, the mud draws out moisture, the straw(or any fiber) is airy-space. news-paper fluff works best.
try next a layer of sand?
(more on floors later) first...
find or make a site one-foot higher than any ground near-it, sort-of a hand-made hill 20x12 feet wide.
note: the word 'block' is used all over this document and meens a block 8 x 8 x 2 inches. 3 blocks = 2 feet. -
then start the base-wall: packed dirt in a figure-8, add branches, grass, gravel-rock, to strengthen,fill,concrete it.
keep adding to the pile till its 3.blk.hi.and 2.blk wide at the top. maybe 4.blk wide at the bottom.
packing it each time you add more.
i just walk on the top of it.
the base-wall is finished.
-
it looks like two big circles with 8.blk of free-space inside each.
and a hall-way...
and a door-way...? dont worry.
dirt is forgiving.
-
on top of this big-8 base-wall
you will now start the domes.
i choose an 8th-arch to follow. (see masonry books - doorways) also called a ram-horn... its like a curved triangle... its not round like a ball... its steeper... sheds rain better. like girl-boobs.
here the walls start to bend, so you cant stand on it.
you will need to make block or strips of dirt-grass? packed 8 inches wide, 2in.thick and ?.long
after pounding them to size, peel them off the ground and place them on the wall, mortared(glued) together with a little paste (wet dirt)
if you want hi-quality block you need to make them two moonths before you build, one moon to make them and one moon to dry them.
this uses more water and time and mixtures are crush-tested to get the strongest block possible. and stabalizers 10% cement and bug-repelents (pine needles? etc)
-
this shelter was designed to take a week to build, for one-day shels you can build just one part of it and do the rest later.
-
it was also designed as a one-month project. if using hi-quality blocks.
-
it was also designed for the future..! three-of-these shelters can-be placed near each other to form a prarie-wagon like circle of defense... a six-pointed star... with a courtyard in the center.
-
still later... when 3 stars have formed, each star becomes a room... 3 rooms makes a house...
-
but for one-person... two boobs is enuff. so lets go back to that.
by now your strips of 8x2x?? slabs of packed dirt-grass mortared with mud shood be 4.blks high = 2.ft + 8.in
built slowly by going around and around like a coil or snake and skipping doors and windows.
keep back and feet bones stiff as possible. move things as little as possible. muscle-building books says over-do-it two days a week, rest and heal every two days.
you can stop here, the dome is half-done. add the base wall and it must now be about five-feet tall, the size of most people.
add the fact that you built it on a hill adds another foot. so its getting harder to hide.
-
the next part is what i call... the roof. i wood choose to put a flat-roof on it, or a living-roof (grows grass to hide). or leev it as-is for when not in use, some small thatch? re-movable t-p can be placed on each dome to finish it.
-
but if you want the full boob-effect i wood try making block out of straw-bundles diped in mud...(a very light block) packed.
cuz remember this part will be going over your head... and leeve a sun-window.
if using more permanent heavy block i wood also pin a bed-sheet,afgan, or netting into the inside of the finished roof...
this is so if block slips or falls you will see a bulge in the netting and not a horrible pool of blood from somthing that droped from the roof and hit you.
dont let mud fool you, it turns deadly. but warm and earthy if used right.
like people.
-
for the floor i have decided on plastic(or water-tight clay) on the gravel, then a mud-coated straw layer, then a 3in sand layer, then block laid like tile... which can be moved easy.
the sand layer can contain hot water tubes.
the gravel layer can contain air-passages for hot-air and rain-water...
plastic-nylons? around pipes in ground keep dirt out yet water rushing away from site. -
tiles of wood? metal-scraps? for the exterior outsides will make a nice skin, think like scales, think small and easy to re-place.
a wall damaged by rain is not.
the goal: move things as little as possible.
keep youR back-and-foot-bones stiff.
-
i am working on a franklin-type stove that wood pull cool air from the floor-threw the passages to the fire and up into the room.
note:the air used by the fire comes from outside... not from where i breath.
the smoke loops over the franklin-box down under the base wall and sucked up a very long flu following the dome.
think of sneezing and choking and thats what it looks like.
-
im thinking of adding thick block-work to the flu so the last bit of heat in the smoke is absorbed and radiated into the room.
this is done by making the smoke go zig-zag like an s-shape over the blocks till its up out of my area.
they are called pennsylvania-dutch, russian-style lardge-masonry stoves. one quick-hot fire will keep the room nice for 4 days.
the black creosote can be used to preserve wood-in-ground.
you may 'want' a char-coal maker(low air) becuz of this. and use char for water-filter.
black can paint objects you 'want' to absorb more heat
white ash can be used to make soap better a garden or bury seed or other valuables...note:most preserved things in archaeology are found burried in ash.
white ash in insulation fibers to protect from bugs, keep them away or paint on objects to reflect sunlight into your windows (when a roof wont let sun in directly.) -
the right way to make heat is natures way, solar, chemical, methane, or vortexed-air. (hilsch-tube) hot and cold.
which im still adding here and there.
-
this is only a structure, every part matters. but a-home meens somthing else to people... they dont sense structure. nor the danger.
-
this is also a shelter... a place for dreams. cozy places is where ideas form. its a place where people are given a chance.
use it to do better, and to help those who cant.
others wood do the work for you, they just need space to stop, a place to rest, maybe to smile again. and be free.
its not funny when you cant. or see them who cant.
-
here are some mental-shelters you will need these or you wont make it to any other shelter:
rule number one: stay with your own gender.
i can save you weeks months years maybe your life, just with that warning.
-
rule number two: evil up-rising hides behind words, words you wood never suspect nor question:
words like:
authority, relegion, security, insurance
example: pure relegion is to visit the fatherless, do you?
pure gospel saves your everlasting soul, mary, church membership, good works can not, make Jesu your saviour, not behaviour
pure authority: do to others what you wish others wood do for you.
pure security: give to the poor, knowledge or skill, not money.
example: feed a man bread and you feed him for a night.
teach a man to plant and you feed him for his life.
-
security: to people now meens i-d-cards cameras, identification, all forms, all evil. and will be used against you. cases where it is used for good only gets you to accept the evil.
pure insurance: knowing that god does the saving and the guiding, even the things he wants going on in your head, its all his construction-work. the man he wants you to be: like no one else. by jesu.
insurance: to people now meens: agreements. we will pay all for you, just give us a little, and become part of the debt.
whats the catch?... the amount is paid by passing the debt to another location, nothing is paid for! national-debt increases. you sold yourself, when the time is right the real creditors (running the game) call...
you will meet multi-jurisdictional task-forces they are from other countries, they will be at your door, collecting the debt.
best move: dont make agreements that are binding. dont pay for somthing you cant settle fully. without wondering who or what is truly going to pay for it.
-
-no end-
warnings:
dont worry, my insurance covers it.
you will kick yourself everytime you hear sombody say that from now on.
let me explain:
insurance: we will pay alot of money, if you pay us a little money.
sounds good, you get into accidents, you get a tooth-ache, sombody pays.
but who? do they work? grow food? sale things to help pay expenses so you can live off them? nope.
who are they?
lets look very carefully.
you signed an agreement, you paid a little, and they paid alot,
but how did they pay?
they didnt.
everyone (as far as you can see) is getting paid off.
but somewhere, someone is giving the money out.
making everyone debtor to him.
at the right time he can say... umm.
remember all that money i gave you? you owe me.
and the dead-line has come.
of corse that person will say, i cannot pay.
i thought all that money was free!
note:they may have agreed to do this as part of their plan.
now they can attack the insurance company for running up debts they cant pay for, all men involved in the company are sent back to pay the debt.
this includes you, you become their property.
for if you look at the insurance company, and the debts they made, you will notice a little catch.
in the agreements to pay is one big person (the insurance company) and one little person (you) and hey, they wood not have run up such a big debt... without you.
now you-also are responsible for this agreement that failed to pay-up,
and that was their plan from the start:
build-up a imaginary rich-company so you wood leen on it like a big-brother.
and in turn, make huge debts with him.
and so you sold yourself.
they will be at your door, collecting the debt.
sale you to a work-camp, and use your belongings to pay it off.
-
and is it just you? look even closer.
they got everybody!
-
we are living in a bubble of fake-money.
it has value for as long as they say the dead-line has not come.
but over this bubble, as you may know, is trillions of dollars of national debt that stands yet unpaid for. and growing (thanks to insurance companies and ? )
-
when this bubble breaks...
you will feel the full blunt and power of a cold-war holocaust.
paint yourself, offer bribes, all useless. they wont accept you nor your money. stock-market crash. stores wont want to see you. bread $100.00 a loaf, naybors kill naybors, troops wait and sale whatever is left.
some dont wait! they come to houses to get you for debts, one at a time. with full right to take children and devide property. you got a bad deal.
-
it happens everyday all over the world,
its called...- a bankers dirty secrets - but some men up higher may be controling even that. who lives. who dies.
so yep.
if i was you.
i wood think ahead.
smiles and spirits, wont last long.
its easy to fool people, and give them a sense of security.
everything looks good on paper. even evolution.
-
its all recorded, and legal, what they do. the sad part is God-himself, accepts the agreements , cuz you made them.
that is why he told joshua -NOT- to make agreements with the people of this land.
-
1638 1757 1836 1917 1932 1981 1998 2008
some papers expose these tricks. but they are now re-writing history. and you dont get time.
-
if it happens in your area today. you will be hit without mercy. thats their buisness.
jesu had to find a garden, just to get away from these creeps.
-
cuz mankind is insane, happy as Cain. who slew his brother and called it world-peace.
i am just a person too.
and am trying my best to leed you away from a big mistake.
-
these guys are experienced. no signs of violence, no blood, everybody stays happy to the last moment.
some can feel somthing is wrong with the system but they brush it off, cuz only poor-people talk like that.
-
they sense somthing is about to happen to the world they built. but cant see it. not even knowing, they helped pay for it.
-
about the number 8: it meens in numerology: a new beginning. in musick: very important an octave: meens eight. it represents harmony, melody.
8 colors in the rainbow. 8 direction on a compass. wholness, completeness, the start of somthing new.
8 desires to include everything. for when one person is well. all the others do well also.
moon-papers for 2008 - after this.. dont diary 'weather' anymore. note:include moons.txt bibl? and 1-5-08 blak-out visions, tribal dictators. always store by date, re-mix it like-you-want on 'one' paper, but always store by-date...cuz thats how it happened.
this doc is easy-r than typing the entire 2007 diary. its like a game..if your be-haviour points too...Xyz you can always jump ahead two-spaces to 'z' and forget all the middle-stuff. not redy for a 'jump'?...get points you missed....
its like a puzzle-game..if you know the picture, just draw-it-in yourself...forget the pee-sez... somebody-got-paid to scramble things up...to keep you busy.... oR..untill you learn.
paused at: give brief nfo on papers refrd2 in this doc, eg.11-25-06=what?
spaces can-be added between moons and filled-in with things you want to do that year.. watch weather at each to see if you can do it..or not.
- - - -
paper one of four: moons listed by quarters, a 2nd-view:see paper-3of4
12-30-07 review-prefix? of most recent diary-events:the green5-star-book with yellow inner-folders: holding blu-book of practicle living:pvc-solar-nfo,and 2002-2007 foothill,cvl,bvl,dob,o.h.numbers, bible-moons+verses,ret-visions of birds,baths,boys and water-greens-grain,sealant-methane.., motto:collect water and seed, be with them ?? who do, set tasks for boys and girls,make rooms for flocks and birds and strangers too. ??=may not meen human,, - -
and 3-papers:p1:3-9-07 she recks your view of trees,ret. p2:2-13-07:bernsteinbears-house picture,using little-arches as cells to build big-structures..next fill-in cells?, p3:mem of Reeser-trip to m-doct..age.19,, - -
main papers:
1-9-07:2007 goals,area-uses,collection of key-dates: 9-5-07:mixs,water-proof ideas,2-18-07:loose paper of shelter-ideas:hi-lo-lands+sleep, 2-6-07:target-areas devided,10-28-06:loose-paper in Rb.blue-diary?3-06to7-06, 8-19-06:Let others do for-you. Stay-base..for them.,3-31-07:ten-years,5-7-07+2-18-07:target-area methods,1-22+27-07:Moon-papers?3-5-07:contacts, 3-25-07:expect-Loss, 8-10-07:Re-calls of stuff-ds.,3-3-07:life-flashed,11-17-07:2008 plans
- - - - end of 1-9-07 paper
other diaries:RA:lang-arts main 05-06,RB:blue-diary:3-06to7-06,RC:coverless-diary:8-06to1-07,Rd?:green-diary 1-9-07 to 1-9-08 and on...to?
- - - - skimming threw Rd: diary:
1-25:2year plans,mind,examples:historic, Total-time uses for my days life, using 6-21-06:xvizn606.txt on the t-areas selected, content of diares,moon-papers one of seven jan.2007,, - -
11-19=11th.n.m,, - -
19-25=11th n.m.? - -
1-28to 2-3:x-vizn resorted,birds in ice,egg-Foams study,ltr2grl-wasted-time,..sim2brothers-problems,, - -
2-19to2-24:f.q.:block-tests,gofer-dead by rains,flu,moon-papers,micro-climate freezes,knife-at-head hidden,, - -
2-25to3-3.f.m:get-u-n-5min.max,meno-bngr-visit,hurt-back,Rainy,dogs hunt you in packs,snow!,wind=unbearable,life-flash,, - -
3-4to3-12th l.q.:geese,doves,needs,not-emo,bngr-stuff.hid,pride,4-circle stick tri-pod in ds-hiland blt,strwbry-grl-musk,, - -
3-14 to 3-23.n.m.: value seeds,lib-cameras,masonic, u.v.nfo,1st.HOT-'day',bud,blow-darts,old-mvl.o.h.bridge, today=18th:lunar-new years eve, two yellow flower cups appear. - -
3-24 to 4-2.f.m.anger,whosoever,moon-bible papers,plermo-meno, internet.vs.gofer-life,one.vs.ten-year view - -
4-3 to 4-10.l.q.: electronics,the great spirit,found-me!,drop-spots,con-art,iron+greens=blood,age.18.wd.crutch,fluff+blossoms, - -
4-11 to 17=2nd.n.m.:peoples attitude,major paved-map-roads of oh-area tour of hills east to hwy49,s threw bridgeport,w to smartsville,n-on mvl-road to.o.h.again. total:130mi..yet bridgeport is only six, bridge out, concentration-filteration-point found at s-end of rices-crossing.,,,78'F:hottest yet,hay-price,raw-meat heals bruises,committed,pick-wick papers,cutr,wind,raid,deep-sout visit,naybor-acts,xvizn,snakes,, - -
8-6 to 12=6th.n.m.:closed camps,returned,naybr,mom+bro sick,records of summer camp,help-me=respond,earth-scape.vhs,lucy-girl=got-stuff, explored tour of n-w-facer of ds.water-basin,re-calls.,, - -
8-13 to20:6th.f.q.:work4seeds,encyclopedia-scan for related topics:materials and methods useable in the wilderness,stb-bleeds,2nd.set.quail-chicks..1st=6-1,falling-stars,, - -
5-11th=7th.n.m:red-sun,cloudy,hot,ashes on cars,visit into town.nfo=MVL,beauty,naybr-nfo,lib:strawbale-house,menno-meet,pub-schools,deer+skunk+noisy naybrs returned:ear-t,monarch-butterflys!,, - -
10-4 to 11=8th.n.m:control=corporations,clouds-changed,earth-houses,lib-copy,cloreen in well?try h202,frost,spiral-season,health-see,bird,glue,bread-war,build-adobe notes,green-grass patches appear,finish-th-story helps you re-mem by giving you a part in it,blak-hat blu-j.re-trn,fornic-never,lib.720-earth-achitecture,cops,spys,poisons,eye-sex diseases,dad insul-sealed door for winter,beatles,flu-cold,no-sun.afternoon.,, - -
10-12to19.f.q.:shel=hEARt-protection..not4sin,not-sex,ret-dream,plrmo-meno.visit,god-hates-you,slavic-garden-mvl-dump visit:ending,red-eyed grl,food-wars,rain-cloudy,insul-warm,wet-nfo,mushrooms! are back,, - -
10-17:f.q.rainy,deli-death,last bngr-visit,rainy,inspectors.stir.naybrs,steam,hate1107.txt,lib.,gas$3,all is green,earth never drys,cold-solar!,mold-spores,, - -
25-dec.1:l.q.:birds all sort,freezes at sunset,feeder frozen,j-letr,blood-doll,galeeb on ic.org icdb.org 64nlyi,cd-r:8-8to11-15-07,area-nfo:woodleaf,clay-model,satalite-maps live!,money-triks,, - -
2-9=10th.n.m:bap.ch.visit.nfo,2x2.witness keep,no-grl-10yrs:help man-kind,vteer.opens more doors,much-rain,no.vent,diaries,needs,hoar-frost growing, ice-pits filling,holocaust,women,fornic,, - -
12-10to17:f.q:ret-MOVes,vote-triks,12-12coptr,bird-heart,sex-isnt-love,trap4truth,econo-choke,wemen,ussr,chrst-vs-pepl,care-home money!,ret-mind with god,, - -
18-24=10th.f.m:1dy.of.fornic.bcame10x?,Rainy-nite,grocery-nfo-visit,alcoholic-teens,stormy-days,health+skin,love is a place,no.water,greg-meno,naybr,, - -
25-31:l.q:mosaic-stepping-stones,wal-mart.visitd,man will econo-kill man,THis side of eternity,Rev:9of10will die,Snow!,no man is english?,animals,destiny changed,ag.ch.visit,diary-year repeets here, foudations:tuff-on-rubl,alive-vhs,holocaust2008,, - -
1-1-08 to 8 = 11th.n.m.:eye-wars,purge-to-grow the people,xvizn08=site+time4water+seed,adoption,your food-print,shel-site visit, great hike-weather one-week+afternoons,scream-cold at night,no-sun days are back! bad-storm,power-out,, - -
- - - -
1-27-07:easter ds-area changes:4-16stop-to8-16:start hiking again, with 2006 heat-waves nfo. ,,,,time wasted:computer,vhs,fornic,mags,do better!,,1st-moon always contains Easter,,,,q-change:shelter-building stopped by heat..change to new cooler locations, out of sun. or into it again.,,diary:dates,weather,events,maps,mind,people,materials+methods,do-donts,studies,goals,time-plate,mem, all-stored-by-date,,,,studies2006:indoor and heat-wave times very important to expect,,,,note:everything happens two-weeks? ten-days earlier each year(on sun-calendar), except after leap-moons(2008 will have a thirteenth moonth:adar2) when moon-calendar behaviour re-starts 28 days later than the year before.,,,, - -
eg.1-19-07 IS 1-8-08..but 1-8-08 will be 2-8-09 if a 13th moon was added. compare with 1-22-07 moon-weather paper.five, updated to 1-4-08,,,,1-15-07:ice-pits frozen..but with no water under them..is sim2 rainy cold spell of drying pits 1-1-07,,,,2-22-07:also re-counts a ten-day diff in snow-time from mar.3.2006=3-3-06 and 3-31-07,,
actualy:25-31,12-10to17 etc...is not 'that' moon quarter, but the last day starts it... i dont know why i displayed it that way. -end-
the next papers have moon quarters,weeks that 'start' with the date,not end. - - - -
brief record of 2007 weather, using the above papers merged with 1-22-07 2006 weather-paper: note 2008 will have 13 moons, 2006 + 2007 moons have bin placed together, but not mixed? in the following nfo below, and listed as-it happens? so good hike-days will always seem to follow rains and storms, and other noticable patterns.
11.nm:shvt.1-29+19+8:small ring over dry ice-pools,drenching,green-plants stunted by rains?,flu-cold near floors,sick-spells,flu,vapor-breeth sick,green-patches,hikes till even.,,fq:hot-sun burns,soil broken by ice lift, birds cant get to water,,fm:no-sun + flys,rainy3days,dads insul-down,dust,,lq:howl-wind,cold-puffs,glad4ndoors.n.d.,hiland-visits,creek-flows,rattler,ravens, - -
12.nm:Adar1+2?feb2-27+17+6:shel-making,snowd!,glad4indoors,,fq:hurt-back,rain+snow,visit grbrs,pine-nuts,hail,,fm:rain+clear+much water,,lq:hard-rains,1st.HOT-'day',plant corn,tomatoes=st.patricksday,explord old mvl-brdg+hike-up berg.top,, - - -
1st.nm:lunar new-year:nisan3-29+19+7:read 3 bibl-books for each moon..1st-3 are:Josua,Job,Hosea,,,,rains,gofers,direct-sun,shels!,spores,filld-tanks,bogs,make-block?,sticks mark mini-streams crossing over paths,Heavy rain-day+rainbow,,fq:dew,q-change,cold thunders,rainy,pedlers-fair,,fm:rains+cold clear,shels,stop by mvl-brdg,Easter,fluff-balls,apple-blossoms,mini-leaves,geese,cold-morn and hot-days = flux,vine-leafs,tall-grass,air-dif,Easter,,Lq:yellow flowers,hike:deep-south visits,mosquito+ants,, - -
2nd.nm:iyar 4-27+17+6 = 06:4-27, 07:4-17, 08:4-6, note:2008 has 13 moons so 2009 will be 4-27 again?
- - - -
paper 3 of 4, 1-4-08, 2006+7 weather, when looking for time of year by the weather presently outside your window...look at re-lated moonth\quarter\date on these moon papers, and also quarters\moonths before and after it to see which is more similar to what you are experiencing.. records only relevant to elevation and location in which they were recorded... but anyone reading will find a helpful pattern to follow when guessing how to spend next-year, and be weather-wise..,, - -
2nd.nm:iyar 4-27+17+6 = 06:4-27, 07:4-17, 08:4-6, note:2008 has 13 moons so 2009 will be 4-27 again?,,geese,hikes,pond-dry,,fq:all is green,no dry soil,no wet,1st ds creek dry,but big+west creek still runs,ponds drying,trumpet flowers,deep-south visits,dr.dino.com,sweat!,brlz-fill,heat-sun weakens me,mosquito,knock-out heat, Q-change,,fm:tired all day:heat?worms,diet,radiation?,ret-gods draw a gide,,lq:pray,bvl-visited,cold mornings,, - -
3rd.nm:sivan.may 26,16,5:stuff4bvl,kloss book,tile,deer,orvl,,fq:grass dry,gone to seed..from mar.2nd,but green below dead stems,bvl,A:1,flowers,blood-thistle,blk-bry-blossoms,my-creek(ds-w)stagnate,but deli-runs,wild-pea in blk-pods,mosquito bites when cool,1st-very-hot-day,,fm:fields mixed dry-yellow and green patches all seed sort trying to mature b4 dry-season deeps cool-cloudy days,,lq:2nd.crop white-fluf,dragon-flys,suns-equinox,lines of green in dry fields where streams were, knock-out heat-wave,eyes-itch,fox-tail weeds in cloth,, - -
4th.n.m:tammuz.june.25,15,3:heat-waves terra-fying,stay cool in deli-pools evap,green blk-brys,VERY-hot rocks, all is dry,geomancy+masaai tribe studys,a:2,hot till even,tree cutters,,fq:lib.book studies:indoors4heat-waves,,fm:bvl,bngr:knock-out heat,cannot move,all very dry,but humid,blk-brys ripe,bngr:grass2dry2use,creeks running,leevs dying burnt,see 7-10-06 xvizn,cold mornings,dry pond has grass by dew,mosq-worms live in your lymph-glands,frogs from polywogs saved in can,important indoor studies papers,w-ds.area explored.,,lq:ds-heat-waves,lib+pond,bvl:a-3:visits,, - -
for related moon-tones see 1-26-07 ten-papers in green 2007 diary,
5th.n.m:AV.july.24,14,3:no-news,camping:bvl,day-time works paused,,fq:many studies,barl,iodine,blog,ravens returned,soybeans pods from may?:grew in caged-earth,thunder+rain day,,fm:Hottest week in history,naybr-violence,fire-coptrs,more-study!,papers-dhumidifiers,,lq:meth,fires,copter,blk-bry-ds.ripe,cvl?,bvl2o.h.came,p.c.re-call,mex.corn.hi!,, - -
6th.n.m:Elul:august.22,12,1st:frat-camp visits+maps!,falling-stars,block-making ends in 60days=thnks-gvn,nite-time works end:town-trips,knock-out heat,now work fall-shells till 9th.moon,windy and cloudy today,enema,green acorns,grapes ripe,ice-maker studys redy4paper,blog-town-teen-tears,help-us,, fq:grapes+blk-bry.ds,no-p.c.!,mapper-plane,visits2deli-pools,bright-mornings,noons:radiation too much, paint807.txt studys,,fm:shel by pools,rock visits near ag.deen,deli,thanks4d.s.,dewrm,got deli-cardbrd,mud-shel.nfo,atv's,very hot,no birds,meth stinks,snakes,corn-floor-nfo,hottest-muggyest day ever, but rained!, dew+a.c.studys,, lq:storage-spots,galic-pill,mud-shell.BUT.not water-proof,poison,snake,sun-red till noon,fire?,ash on cars,mvl-town visit,no-water-at.ds.,orvl-lib green-building book,revival-week meets at bngr-grngs?by bgr-menno, deer skunk animals returned after dark,naybrs musick too.,monoarch butterflys,, - -
7th.n.m:Tishrei.september.22,11,aug.30:water-maker?,tile-on-shel?,n.d.studies, naybr-nfo, buzzards circle,u.v.deadly sun,,fq:rain-cloudy,but no rain,mud-sheet shell,no-sun,yet-no-water,Big-rains came,water-maker study paused till 9th-moon:dec.2,signat-denta-scam,UFO-sitings,sun-equinox,eggs-stand on end at 12-noon,close winter-camps?,redding:froze-snowd,very cold-damp morning,q-change to sun-sites again,tiny-birds,health,,fm:wntr-day-lite projects till 9th moon:dec.2,heavy morning dew,leaves are every-where and in trees,UFO,lib.genocide,wounds,Eshther-vhs,spores,windy,rug-day?,rainy,green grass sprouts under dead ones,,lq:clean-heater?, well-diggers,stock-market crash1987,dew found under bag of my stuff, at noon!,clouds changed to big rolling type ones:puffs with black-bellies,day of sparkly frost on every thing ground?,patches of green grass appearing,pointy-hat blu-js returned,finish the story...leev missing parts for others to color in..to re-mem man-kind better than you found it,, - -
where is jewish-moonths showing seasons of activity? rains,reap,sew,tillage,vintage-time,etc. only two places in the world can grow olives: Israel and California
- - - -
paper four of four
8th.n.m:Cheshvan:october.21.11.sep.29:Fiery Red-Yel.trees dot all lands.reveeling dif.tree.types,green-patches,leaf-paper everywhere,no'BIG'rains yet, cold mornings, to-cold out after Sunset..til late-morning,ds-igloo-2005,deer-died in one-week:no water, p.c.(computr)studies,,dew:found water? on hi-rock, on metal-oxides, under-rocks,eye-sex,trlr-insul4wntr,beatles,lib.notes:architecture,wise-word, palrmo-menno-nfo,Rained pools here,all grass dry,slavic mvl-dump gardens ending,lib,why?time-indoors?n.d,flu-cold,no-sun after-noon,red-eye girl,smile - god hates you: trak,,fq:pagan new-year,canot build with-these people,no mind of you,flu-shots gov contaminated,very Rainy,ripe-plants mustard,warm,cloudy,mushrooms are back,no flys till poo=hi.c.h,menno, all is green again,brown 3-ball husk pod on ground,adobe-studys,p.g.e:sprayed poles chemicals,crickets!,skunk,lib.,,fm:deep-south visit,planted gspel traks,Rain+thunder,ground good for digging,gofer-burrbia,letrs2prisoners by bibl-correspondance,cold-mornings,all is green,prize-day2bngr-meno,nadar-khalili book-notes:earth architecture, www:no-more-web,birds planting acorns,1st.cold-fog!,coldest night of the year:montana:16'C,Rainy,hoar-frost on all,thick-ice,very cold-spell today,,lq:cutters:no1stopd2live-dif.so they cood live2.,wet gold-leaves every-where..on green-grass shoots,wounded-turkey at mud-sheet hut, hunters,Rainy,wet-smell dirt,germ-count in air=hi=humid.,p.g.e,bite-bone cold at sunset,mushrooms back,cold feels damp,spores in air,quartz-white-rock has odd bloody-look today, very bad-fog that night, germ-spores like to live in your lymph-nodes,de-worm on friday-nites,plant-wheat?,seen all o.h.=hike?,quilts:bvl.pona.comu,save seed,clock-bak1hr2day,dntst,gas,eat-clay,clean-air.,, - -
9th.n.m:Kislev:november.19,9,oct.28:all is freezing + wet,animals under house,hard-rain,icy-cold,igloo-pit yet empty,eat-ruffage,chili+vit-c.,thnks-givn froze all,tea, Rainy, pond-filling, bad.germ.air,make good things for others:copy 11-25-06,Rainy,get pay-job?,active outside?till supper-time:evening tide,gas=3$,earth never dries, cold-solar=reflecting at night,olives ripe, mold spores,,fq:white?morning, burning-cold,killer-cold,wolves,hoar-frost has 'tilled' the ground by up-freezing it, p.c.-me-n.d.starts2day,persimmins ripe-picked,no sun,wear damp-boots-now..not shoes:to wet outside,dental,money or needs?what is money?not human?,,p.v.cells visit,paint,ash,disinfect hair,tea-tree oil,,,,2007:all is green,but stays damp,cold solar,geese,dental,big mushrooms.lifting dirt,no 'dry'ground ever,strange-book'hurricane'how2-nfo11-22,uncl-came2vist.with wood,,
- fm:2006:cool cold damp all day,wet rocks under dry ones, parts of ground lifted by frost,wet leaves,dead-looking trees:no leaves,time of Rot and Rust,flu-sicl wars,,,-frogs croak,Rain,pond full,ditch runs,all is super-cold soaked, RH=120%Rainy,bone-cold,,,2007:4rbs-xmas cold after-noon,mandarin ripe,kathys-corner:rug-girl,freezes at sunset,water-feedr frozen.letr-2j,car-rek=bloody-rag-doll,Israel-born,clay-models dug,dds fires-stove,woodleaf.o.d.school,,
10th.N.M:Tevet:december.19,9,Nov.27: no-light + low-light, mental block,body-clock knocked-out,short days,misery,sloctice.2day!+Rain,Stormy all night.Rain,cold-dry morning under ds.trlr+stedy breeze,,vvery stormy-wind, dark cloudy, no-dry, no-calm,, - 2007:Hoar-grass Frost growing lifts dirt, ice-pits filling, 12-12 copter,Rain!after dark at end of week,, -
F.Q.:bright-lights:man-made + bird-noises help-mental in these dark-times, horribly-icy weather, no-way out, damp frozen sickness,, - 2007:cyen-pepr.tea, Rock-fell to Fornic-nfo, stormy-DAYS, no running-water in house, make darts, 12-22 solctice,, -
F.M.:2006+7:big beets in ds.garden in apple-tree'caged-earth', pine-walnut-shel-tea,ds-well.stopd.again,, - 1-07: fair outside for work weather..BEtween-days and hours of cold-flu wet-windy suprises, dew5-06-nfo,next:cant describe it..like breething ice!, head-painful weather, wish i was dead, way-way-to-cold night: like hands held in freezer and cant puLL out..next year+same time..HAVE places to get-out of this.,, - 12-07:stb-nfo:lak.of.iron and dehydration causes depression in wemen,caroling-kids,Lusty-Tales,got gift:mosaic stepping stones kit,, - 1-07:stones at gate still collect dew at sunset..dripping..like the roof did at summer-camp bvl, seed-nfo, the big-four edibles:grasses,cattails,pine-tree,acorn, no dangerous look-alikes, dew-nfo:metal rusted barl over new-well.ds.is soaked at morning,,gate-pole is wet,base is dry.,,12-28-07:Snowed! Rain, next: good hike days,, - -
L.Q:1-11-07:strange wind-cold,body-shaky, jello-nfo, to-cold near the floor..in ds.trlr, ice is 4in.thick,rex-nerd.blogspot.com,tree-ring ice-ponds with no water under the ice layer..,, 12-31-07:Diary Repeats -HERE-, sinky-foundations?, VHS'Alive'=plane-crash in mtns..people-eatn-people, visited shell-area..good dig-day + weekb4, next day:storms,night-sweats,black-outs,pools-creeks flow, skunk-sick,green-grass stagnated by over-watering, damp-cold freezes, new-year plans, o.H.forced to live Amish3days, no-p.g.e., 1-5-08 visions came. ,, -
11th N.M:Shevout: began.
-end of paper four of four 1-6-08
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check-compare above with paper for 'skips', how much food wood it take to sit a guy down for a year so he cood write all this? ...help other too do what you enjoyed...nites of lights and warm..let one place, grow to one-thousand..with...
svi608p2.txt - - - - v6-17-08 6pm notes from reading 5+6-08 survivalblog.com + print-partsjump tO:
1sorts - a list of related? gotten and listed as-found.by date? 2print - notes clipd for print...reduce for future prefix? 3prefx - shows content of 1sorts paused at 28gooda.txt (start) - - - - 1sorts: notes start 5-18?-08 on 10 + 10 + 2 papers: - first-time-notes = 2 papers, 6-2-08:28rad.txt - radiation. 1? 6-3-08:28retr.txt - retreat opttions.2p 6-6-08:28self.txt - self - sufficiency. 2p 6-6-08:feula+b.txt - feul options.1p 6-7-08:urbanscout.org + maydn stuff.1p 6-8-08:28charity.txt - items4barter.4p 6-9-08:svi606.txt main-page (as of 6-08).2p unch.txt underground-church movment
6-10-08: earlier downloads svi1234567.txt from 5-18-08 are finly cawt on notes.4p 6-10-08:feulb.txt - feul options.3p total: 22papers... 6-12-08:28food.txt - food storage.2p paused at 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to put start notes-on-computer. not paper. see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it! - - - possible order of note-making: (as-is = as-found) 28rad.txt survivalblog.com\5-29-08\radiation link\ nfo:5-16-08 to 2-1-2006 28retr.txt retreats groups? survivalblog.com 5-25-08 to 5-13-06 28self.txt survivalblog\self-suffeciency data 5-21-08 to 2-2-06 28feula.txt survivalblog\feuls? 5-28-08 to 8-24-07 28feulb.txt survivalblog\feuls? 8-18-07 to 4-21-06 28food.txt re-got a-f, notes ended at.b, started: b?-f 28outdo.txt survivalblog\outdoor nfo 5-6-08 to 1-27-06 28gooda.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-25-08 to 12-2-07 28goodb.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 12-2-07 to 5-16-07 28goodc.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-16-07 to 1-27-06 6-12-08:new related? stuff 14 + 14b ? 6-19-08:got? more related?
got: some paper-notes(see 'get'parts) of reading 28rad to 28food-b -end- - - - - 2print: parts my-notes say to print are parts most useful to me (avoiding most gun + engine nfo) and not 2sim2what i have alredy. somewhere. -end- paused at 28foodb.txt: 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to put start notes-on-computer. not paper. see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
continues here: 28outdo.txt: survivalblog.com\outdoor skills? Tuesday May 6 2008Letter Re: Ropes and Knot Tying Rope is an incredibly useful thing, both in everyday life and in a SHTF situation: it can be used in combination with a tarp and two trees to construct a makeshift shelter, can lift or pull objects, can secure objects to prevent them from moving, it can make snares and traps to catch food, and so on. One can even tie their shoes! However, when tied with clumsy or inadequate knots, rope can be incredibly dangerous. The common square knot can fail if sideways (relative to the length of the rope) tension is applied to one of the working ("free") ends. Certain knots can weaken rope['s breaking strength] by more than 40%, which can be a dangerous condition in and of itself. For light duty (tent cord, tying things down, etc.), military-style 550 [nylon parachute] cord is incredibly useful. For heavier load-bearing uses, ---ow they're done (they show examples of around 75 specific knots) via clearly photographed animations. --One item that bears special mention is the rappelling carabiner. Commonly just called a "biner"--and called a "snap link" by the US military--these have umpteen uses for attaching/lifting/slinging/securing loads and acting like a pulley (or providing greater rope friction by adding multiple coils of rope, which of course relates to their originally-intended purpose for rappelling. I recommend buying a half-dozen (or more), with at least two of them with thumb screw-type locking gates.OBTW, avoid the flimsy pseudo-carbiners that are sold as key ring holders. (Thankfully, nowadays most of these are stamped "Not for Climbing Use".) We keep several carabiner in our ATV's cargo bag, along with a 150 foot coil of rope, and a pair of Jumar ascenders. When used in conjunction with our ATV's electric winch, this gear has proved immensely useful for tasks around the ranch, and particularly when packing big game uphill.
---JWR Replies: Given the mild climate on the California coast, a water filter is much more important than cold weather gear for your next purchase. I recommend the American-made Aqua Rain brand. These are similar to the Big Berkey (imported from England), but they only cost half as much. (The US Dollar's recent slip versus the British Pound has sadly further widened this price gap.)---Tuesday March 25 2008 My Seven Favorite North American Edible Wild Plants, by Paul C.
In light of the impending economic and social crisis, a knowledge of edible wild plants is essential. I have included a list of seven easily recognized p---Before listing my seven choices, please keep these facts in mind: (1) an individual may be allergic (or develop an allergy to) any of these plants. Initially consume them in moderation. (2) although a plant may be easily recognized during its flowering stage, this is often NOT the time they are collected for food. Use sources with color photos (not drawings) of a plant at various stages of its life cycle to aid identification. (3) In addition to field guides and on-line sources, consult a botany reference to become familiar with botanical terms.
At the end of this discussion, I have included both on-line references as well as field guides from my own personal collection. While you may not be i---(1) Plantain- broadleaf plantain is found on lawns throughout the continent. It has broadly elliptical leaves that rise directly from the root in a formation known as a basal rosette; these leaves remain close to the ground. This plant can be eaten as a salad or boiled in soups (the latter is preferred when the plant gets older-at this point the leaves become stringy). Plantain leaves are rich in vitamins A and C, and minerals. Narrow-leaf plantain is also edible and is similar in appearance except for the shape of the leaves. Fresh leaves can also be mashed and applied to minor wounds.
(2) Common Purslane- Purslane is also found on lawns throughout North America. This plant barely reaches an inch off the ground. It has fleshy, jointed stems (purplish- green with a reddish tinge), and narrow, thick leaves about two inches long growing in opposite directions. The stems contain a clear fluid (Spurge, a poisonous plant that looks similar to Purslane, has milky sap). The best way to harvest this plant is to cut off only the leafy tips; it will rapidly sprout again and provide greens from May until the first frost. It can be used in soups or salads.
(3) White Oak Acorns- The leaves of a typical white oak have rounded lobes which are never bristle tipped (as opposed to red or black oak). After shelling acorns, they must be boiled to leech out tannins (in high concentrations, tannins damage the kidneys—tannins are also found in tea). The yellowish-brown water left over from leeching is a good topical remedy for poison ivy rashes; it is also styptic—it will stop bleeding. Leeching takes several hours—change the water each time it becomes yellowish-brown. After leeching, the acorns can be dried in a slow oven. They can be eaten or ground into a fine meal. This meal can be mixed with flour to extend your supply; acorn meal lacks gluten and will not make dough rise. The acorns of other oaks, while requiring a longer leeching period, are also edible.
(4) Maple Trees- people think of maple syrup, but the liquid extracted from a tapped maple tree is potable. The “keys” (winged seeds) can be boiled or roasted, while the leaves can be used in salads. In emergencies, the inner bark can also be consumed.
(5) Wild Rose- this plant is widely distributed throughout the continent. Few foods have a higher vitamin C content. The rose-hips (seed pods) can be used to make jams or dried and used for soups or teas. They remain on the plant throughout winter and can be picked when other food is not available. The seeds within rose-hips can be ground and boiled in water to provide a rich source of vitamin E. Rose flowers and leaves can also be used to make tea. (6) Lamb’s Quarter- this plant, which thrives throughout most of the U.S., is regarded as among the most delicious of wild edibles (similar to spinach). It is available from spring to the first frost. This plant is generally 3-5 feet tall with diamond shaped leaves; the leaves have irregular teeth or shallow lobes when mature (immature plants have spade shaped, toothless leaves). The undersides of the leaves are often coated with a thick whitish-gray powder. Bffore cooking, water will not wet these leaves. (7) Cattails- this is an easily recognizable plant of swamps and marshes throughout the world. It is a year round food source. The leaf bases can be harvested from mid spring to early summer. The immature spikes can be boiled and served with butter like corn on the cob during early and mid summer. Cattail pollen requires little processing once gathered (except for sifting) and can be combined with flour stores; it is collected during June and July. The cores of the underground rootstocks are a valuable source of starch (especially during winter)- waders or a wetsuit would be a good investment for winter harvesting. Finally, small sprouts begin to form at the tip of the rootstocks between early summer and early fall Use the following listed sources for more information about these wild edibles. Also keep in mind that this is only the tip of the iceberg; there are hundreds of wild edibles waiting to be utilized—good luck! References:Thayer, Samuel. The Forager’s Harvest. Ogema, Wisconsin: Forager’s Harvest, 2006 Angier, Bradford. Feasting Free on Wild Edibles. Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: ---The hobo's slept in small dugout caves in the woods and would never steal from us. But they would steal chickens from a couple of our neighbors. --- hanging around. I was amazed on how they could start fires, cook, a lot of them always carried fishing tackle made up of hooks, sinkers, and line, used frog gigs with branches, set traps using snares. I used to hang around with these guys just to watch them. In turn I would sneak out some cans of be---I can understand Doc learning from the homeless that stay in the shelter he works at. - Randy in Asheville, NC ---2) Staying Clean - Walgreen's sells a shower head on a short hose with a rubber adapter to connect to a faucet. They are meant for cleaning pets or dishes in the sink, but can also be used to shampoo your hair in a convenience store bathroom. The homeless man who showed me this trick said that if your hair is clean, you appear clean. This helped him find temporary jobs.
3) Self Defense - One man carried a sports bag with a Ka-Bar sheath knife inside. He could hold the sheath through the bag with his left hand, while drawing the knife through the open top of the bag with his right hand. Yet another had a Colt .45 in his bag. 4) I was told that a roll of toilet paper soaked in lighter fluid, charcoal starter, or alcohol makes a good improvised cooking fire. 5) Another guest showed me his cache that was buried by the river. It was a pair of five gallon plastic buckets, buried by rocks and hidden behind some trees in a remote area. One was filled with food, the other with cooking utensils. I doubt that this was his only stash. --- Consider volunteering at a homeless shelter. You may be surprised what the r---I clicked on this link from your site, JOTW - Home Made Vegetable Oil Lamp. This got me to thinking about something I read about and tried once, some years ago. Take a tangerine, and using a knife, cut the nub off of the top, to expose the fruit, and using a spoon, separate the fruit from the peel and the segments from each other, leaving the sting like " pith " that runs from top to bottom, down the center of the segments, connected to the bottom. After letting the thing dry a bit, the pith is cut a bit to act as a free standing " wick ", a bit of olive, vegetable, or corn oil is put in, leaving about 1/4" of the pith above the oil to light. If it soaks up the oil enough, the lamp can be made to last quite a while for survival needs.
If you go to the extreme in a survival situation, a lamp could be fashioned from natural clay like the ones seen in the Middle East that have been made the same way since biblical times. . Many thanks to Hawaiian K. for the link. I like to try some of these type preparedness do-it-yourself projects from time to time to learn a new skill that may help me and my family some bad day. - Dim Tim---1.) We take no UPS deliveries at our house. Nearly all of our mail-ordered---2.) We don't subscribe to any shooting or hunting magazines. We get all of---3.) We access all web pages via Anonymizer, with no exceptions.scroogle-scrapper---4.) Most of of our preps purchases are either made F2F, with cash, or with Post Office Money Orders if ordering by mail. This eliminates the "trail of paper" from writing checks or using a credit card. We buy a lot from Nitro-Pak, Ready Made Resources, Major Surplus, and Lehman's.
5.) All of our guns, ammunition, gun gadgets, targets, and cleaning supplies are bought "private party", mainly at SoCal [(Southern California)] gun shows. Also, needless to mention, these are greenback transactions only! In California, we can still at least buy rifles and shotguns that are more than 50 years old without having to buy through a [licensed] dealer. ---6.) We signed up for an identity theft and credit report checking protection plan three years ago. I noticed that SurvivalBlog just started running an ad from Comprehensive Risk Solutions. Their service has more bells and whistles and a lower subscription cost that our current provider, so we will switch [---7.) We use a TracFone whenever calling a mail order vendor. (No calling history paper trail.)
8. ) We don't mention our preps to anyone outside of our family. We have coached our kids from an early age to keep their lips zipped. 9.) Whenever we have anybody visit our home, the basement door stays closed and locked. (It is a keyed deadbolt lock.) The basement has no windows. Most o---10.) We don't leave anything "suspicious" out where it can be seen in our house and garage. ---These precautions might seem kinda "over the top", but put yourself in my shoes. In the People's Republic of California it pays to be a bit of a Secret Squirrel. I does cost me about $300 per year to get my mail and packages at the UPS Store, but I consider that a small price to pay for my privacy. I p---Thursday February 7 2008 From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a r---tt---- Thursday February 7 2008 From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists" Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main (or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.) Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly, some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of the following in great detail) Water ListFood Storage ListFood Preparation ListPersonal ListFirst Aid /Minor Surgery ListNuke Defense ListBiological Warfare Defense ListGardening List Hygiene List/Sanitation ListHunting/Fishing/Trapping ListPower/Lighting/Batteries ListFuels ListFirefighting ListTactical Living List..Security-General..Security-Firearms..Communications/Monitoring List Tools List..Sundries List..Survival Bookshelf List..Barter and Charity List JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists: Water List House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.) Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most people can handle without back strain. For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.) Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter. (Available from Ready Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good filter could be a lifesaver.) Food Storage List See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent letter from David in Israel on this subject. Food Preparation List Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing, and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or 6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying. They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr. Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”) Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws. Personal List (Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected to arrive at your retreat.) Spare glasses. Prescription and nonprescription medications. Birth control. Keep dentistry up to date. Any elective surgery that you've been postponing Work off that gut. Stay in shape. Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual tasks required for self-sufficiency. Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event. “Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games, CDs, chocolates, etc.) First Aid /Minor Surgery List When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies. Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit (inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.) This is going to be a big list! Chem/Nuke Defense List Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter), rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects), duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI) tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance. Biological Warfare Defense List Disinfectants Hand Sanitizer Sneeze masks Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine silver rod.) Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …) Gardening List One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up, it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation. Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers. Tools+ spares for barter/charity Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The Ark Institute Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea (purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera. Hygiene/Sanitation List Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty! TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight, but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP. Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.) Bottled lye for soap making.Ladies’ supplies.Toothpaste (or powder). Floss.Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.) Sunscreen. Livestock List: Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic, carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads, leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets, bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools, et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List “Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very reasonable prices.) Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They will also make very valuable barter items. Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical spin casting equipment. Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term Crunch. Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps if you have crawfish in your area. Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF. Power/Lighting/Batteries List One proviso: In the event of a “grid down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power, it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night. At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets. Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully opaque curtains for your windows. When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.) If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas. If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator. (And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating oil. Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also make great barter items.) Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog posts. Fuels List Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns, underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case, do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.) Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas. If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves, goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in a hurry. Firefighting List Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) andthe prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps! Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof. 2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water volume for firefgghting) Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head. Smoke and CO detectors. Tactical Living List Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.) Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical clothing on short notice. Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now, stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie suits post-TEOTWAWKI. Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.) Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty. Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters. Mosquito repellent. Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat, plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS) made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended. Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house Subdued flashlights and penlights. Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or perhaps a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject) Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior obstacles (fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road cables, rosebush plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic protection (personal and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms, anti-vehicular concrete “planter boxes”, razor wire, etc.) Starlight electronic light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat security. A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low ambient light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into daylight--albeit a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification technology was first developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue Third Generation (also called or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight scopes can cost up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology scopes can often be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy optics) can be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric generator instead of batteries is the best----the relationship and implications to IR illuminators and tritium sights. Range cards and sector sketches. If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute maps, with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on an oversize map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of all of your surrounding neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a five mile radius. (Get boundary line and current owner name info from your County Recorder’s office.) Study and memorize both the terrain and the neighbors’ names. Make a phone number/e-mail list that corresponds to all of the names marked on the map, plus city and county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack it up right next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military commander’s map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but remember, you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you get to know your neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of them when in town, you will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about two miles up the road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?” They will be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.” Security-Firearms List Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning equipment, carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing tools, targets and target frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol should have at least six top quality (original military contract or original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines. Note: Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use, and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs. Communications/Monitoring List When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power or rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be recharged from your retreat’s 12 VDC power system without having to use an inverter.) As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you can afford them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect them from EMP. If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12 VDC marine band radios. These frequencies will probably not be monitored in your region, leaving you an essentially private band to use. (But never assume that any two-way radio communications are secure!) Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training, use, security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and logistical support will be covered in forthcoming blog posts. Tools ListGardening tools.Auto mechanics tools. Welding. Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.” Woodworking tools. Gunsmithing tools. Emphasis on hand powered tools. Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel. Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone colors). Sundries List:Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or that you might need if the local hardware store were to ever disappear: wire of various gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts, weather stripping, abrasives, twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera. Book/Reference List You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as Carla Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is because these books are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t want to risk lending out your only copy. Barter and Charity List For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable, non-perishable, and either in small packages or that are easily divisible. Concentrate on the items that other people are likely to overlook or have in short supply. Some of my favorites are ammunition. [The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it as “ballistic wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver. Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that are still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get plenty of .22 LR (most high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local favorite deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own a rifle chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of the local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge. Ladies supplies. Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table salt.) (Stores indefinitely if kept dry.) Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be available after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like liquid gold!) Gas stabilizer. Diesel antibacterial additive. 50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses). 1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or similar) lubricant. Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry bags"). Thermal socks. Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.) Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts, holsters, magazine pouches, et cetera.) Pre-1965 silver dimes. 1-gallon cans of kerosene. Rolls of olive drab parachute cord. Rolls of olive-drab duct tape. Spools of monofilament fishing line. Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows, isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.) I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who recommended the following: Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them waterproof.) Playing cards. Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.) Rope & string. Sewing supplies. Candle wax and wicking. Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business. Some that you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance repair, gun repair, locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have at least one home-based business (preferably two!) that they ca depend on in the event of an economic collapse. Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity. Note: See the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for lengthy lists of potential barter items.
----number one mantra "If you are in trouble and cold and have no shelter, and no means to make one, don't ever sit down until you can find shelter."---own low expectations. But even if FEMA had been able to provide more food and water, you would still be much better off taking care of yourself. Do you really want to be told what possessions you can hold, when to eat, when to sleep, and live in close quarters with thousands of strangers? Sounds like prison to me.---Thinking about these things may be scary but itwwill be less scary when it actually happens if you have thought it through. Focus on what you can do to improve things and not on what you cannot change. Thinking can also be more long term as in learning and planning. I suggest you read some of the---in the wilds and that is miserable. For me, a hat and sunglasses are indispensable. I try to always carry at least a light water resistant jacket or poncho (with a garbage bag as a backup). For me, boots are the only sensible walking shoes. Find some that are rugged and comfortable. Have extra laces and a backup pair.
You can carry a tent, a tarp or garbage bag for resting and sleeping. A tarp can make a simple shelter or an elaborate one. Rope, twine and tape are also useful. You can carry some type of staff or tent poles or make them with an ax or saw. Mosquito netting is necessary in some places.
You should have many ways to start a fire since most are cheap and compact. At least have a lighter, matches, and flint. You can also build a firebed to sleep in if you have inadequate shelter from the cold---and you are not near a river or lake.
Used plastic soda bottles and orange juice jugs with screw tops make very convenient water storage containers. Just rinse them a few times with hot water. Old liquor bottles and wine box bladders work well too. I also have several canteens and rugged 5 gallon containers with taps. The five gallon containers weigh about 40 pounds each and are about as big as can be easily moved (larger drums can go in your basement or garage or under a rain spout). A few collapsible containers might also be useful because they can be stored and carried empty. Tap water can last for years without going bad if kept in a cool dark place. But you should check water that has been stored for clarity and odors. If in doubt, treat it with one of the methods below. You can also freeze the plastic soda or orange juice containers (these do crack sometimes when freezing) and use them in a cooler to keep food cold if the power goes out before drinking it. If you know a disaster is coming fill up a---The first step in sterilizing water is to get the water as clear as possible. If it is cloudy, strain it with coffee filters, a clean cloth, or sand. Or you can let it settle and pour off the more clear water.
The primary and most reliable method of sterilizing water is boiling. You actually do not need to boil the water just heat it past 145 degrees for long enough. But if you don't do it right you can get sick. So to be safe, boil it for 5 minutes if you can. If you are walking, a metal cup (enamel or stainless) or a converted tin can is easier to boil than a full pot. You can carry a backpacking stove or a Kelly Kettle. You can use solar power to sterilize water (in a soda bottle) if no cooking is possible. Other stoves are suggested below under food.
To sterilize water with bleach use 2 drops of plain unscented bleach per quart of water (or 8 drops per gallon or 1â„4 tsp per 2 gallons). If you don't have a dropper you can wet a paper towel and then drip it (wear gloves). Let the water sit for 20 minutes and then smell it. If it smells like chorine then its good to go. If it doesn't, repeat with the same amount of bleach. If that doesn't work try to find other water. (Really bad water or salt water requires a still.) Bleach is cheap but does not last forever - rotate. Dry Calcium Hypochlorite {sold as "pool shock" bleach) stores much better than liquid bleach but requires an additional step of mixing a solution. (It provides a very inexpensive long term solution to water treatment).
There are also Potable Aqua iodine tablets that are more compact for sterilizing water. You can also use Tincture of Iodine. Iodine and chlorine are poisons so be very careful (kill the bacteria not yourself. [Avoid ingesting chlorine or iodine crystals!])
Any of the chemical treatments can make the water taste funny. You can use drink mixes to make it taste better. I'm not sure if sports drinks are really better, but Gatorade seems more thirst quenching to me than water. The powder form is more convenient and cheaper. You can also make your own sports drink (1/4 tsp nu salt (potassium chloride), 1â„4 tsp salt, 3-6 tbsp sugar (to taste), juice of 1 lemon (or orange), and optional flavoring (Kool-Aid) per gallon of water) or switchel.---ittp://www.doultonfilters.com/gravity.html. This is a great looking solar still but doesn't appear to be for sale right now.
If you are a homebrewer (or like beer), you can add some dry malt extract, hops, and dry yeast to your stash. Beer is boiled as part of the brewing process. Then the alcohol and hops act as a natural preservative. For the long term you can get some sproutable barley, grow some hops, and culture yeast. If you or someone with you doesn't handle alcohol well, skip this.---some family I wouldn't turn away even if they deserve it). Start with the cheap stuff (rice, beans, pasta, salt) and then slowly keeping adding and rotating the other food until you have at least one months worth. Do an inventory at least twice a year.
Store everything in airtight/waterproof containers inside a tough container in a cool, dry, dark place. Some things come packed pretty well and can just go in a plastic bucket or crate (cans can be dipped in wax). Other items should be vacuum packed in small bags or large mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and then put in the plastic bucket with a lid or crate (with a solid latching lid). If you don't have shelves, you can make shelves out of the buckets or crates and 1â€x12†lumber. Put 2â€x4â€'s under the bottom shelf to keep it off the floor.
For years worth of food instead of months worth of food we need to move to grain and grain grinders. The Church of Latter Day Saints are the experts here. They also have storehouses that will sell to the public if you are polite.---I went cheap and was able to get about six months worth of food for one person for $100. I stuck to grains (400 lbs/year), beans (40 lbs/year), soup mix (20 lbs/year), and milk (16 lbs/year) (I already had sugar (60 pounds/year), salt (10 lbs/year), oil (5 gallons/year), baking soda and yeast). I borrowed some of their equipment to pack some of the food, the rest I packed at home in the mylar bags and buckets described above. The milk is a sticky powder and very messy (think of spilling flour and multiply by 100), repack it outside if possible. I also bought a hand operated grain grinder to make flour from the wheat. Then I can make bread (scale this recipe up to one loaf per day for a year as a cross check for a year's supply). This would be a pretty miserable diet but I think it would keep me alive and healthy if I had enough vitamins. Because of the sack size I have more of some things than others so towards the end I may be eating paste. I hope to upgrade later. For infants you need more milk, oil, sugar, and vitamins from which you can make an emergency formula (breast feeding is better, then you give the extra food to the mother).
For even longer food solutions you need to farm. Supplementing your food with a garden or sprouting would also make things last longer and provide some healthy variety. Its best to have some non-hybrid seeds on hand or save seeds from your garden. Serious (expensive) seed packages are here. Have some fertilizer and pesticides on hand but in the long run organic is the way to go.
For cooking you can use a wood burning stove, barbeque, or camp stove in the short run (have some extra f---If you don't have one of these or run out of fuel you can build one: a coffee can stove, a bucket stove (avoid galvanized metal), a alcohol stove, a collapsible stove, a tin can stove (simple version), solar oven (portable version), or a clay stove (print directions for making at least one of these).---Hope Hope is different for everyone. It can be safety, comfort, companionship, or normalcy. For me it is mainly hope that there is light at the end of the tunnel. I can work hard and persevere if I know eventually things will get better. This means long term planning. So I want to have what I need in the short term but also have some hope for the long term (so I have gardening tools and seeds in addition to rice and spam). You also want comfort items such as a book, Bible, game, coloring book, pictures, beer, tea, or warm shower. Some of these can be dual purpose such as a book about hiking or gardening, survival playing cards, or a novel about survival and perseverance.
Equipment There are lots of things you can get, but you can also just organize what you have already. The number of lists seems endless and what you need depends upon the situation, your skills, and your budget. Here is what is wrong with---Change your attitude, don't be wasteful, and you can reuse many items. A tin can becomes a cup or pot with a little work. Use both sides of a piece of paper and then use it as insulation or tinder. Waste not, want not.---Organize your equipment and supplies into different levels and packages Stuff you almost always carry You should make a small kit that fits in your pocket or around your neck. This should include:
ways to make a fire (matches, mini bic, flint, etc.) a button compass a small knife or razor blade, broken hack saw blade, small file Swiss Tech Micro-Tech 6-in-1 Tool led light small candle (light or fire making) a saw short piece of wire parachute cord (as much as will fit) iodine tablets sturdy needle and thread individual salt servings food tabs, hard candy, bullion or individual parmesan cheese/sugar (if space permits) freezer bags (water) nails (assortment) trash bag if it will fit (poncho or tarp) dental floss (twine) Advil, Imodium, Benadryl, vitamins, band aids, SPF chapstick any other essential medicine for you or your family (all labeled) fish hooks, split shot, fish line, safety pins. Survival cards can go in kit or wallet (you can make something similar). Personal Fanny Pack (or vest) This should be small enough and attached to you so that you do not put it down even when you take a break. Take it with you on any hike, drive or emergency. A large fanny pack works well or Ranger Rick suggests putting everything in a vest and a bamboo walking stick. You can duplicate some of the itemsiin your mini kit but add substantially.
Survival cards or pocket survival guide (or print some out). Knife of your choice (another one can go in your pocket or on your belt) Sharpening stone (or ceramic insulator) Fire materials (matches and tender (dryer lint, cotton balls in Vaseline, small candles, etc.) waterproofed) Magnifying glass wrapped in bandana Pliers if your knife doesn't have them Compass Maps Metal cup (boiling water) 2 small bottles of water Freezer bags (organization, waterproofing and for more water) Small camp soap (or traveler's shampoo) Iodine tablets At least 2 trash bags (clear for still and heavy black for shelter), or tarp and poncho, or space blanket, or light weight jacket with hood (a shell that compacts) or hat Rope, twine and wire Headlamp and extra batteries Candle Wipes (these are multipurpose and are more compact than toilet paper, keep them in zip lock bags (add a little water if they get dry)) Gloves and socks Small first aide kit (including prescriptions) Sunscreen and bug repellant. Whistle Snacks (powerbars, trail mix, food tabs, tea, Gatorade mix, bullion, beef jerky, MRE) A GPS, FRS radio, am/fm radio, cell phone, or CB can go in here if it fits Mini binoculars (to spot landmarks, approaching fires, etc.) Notepad and pencil or pen A multipurpose tool is a good backup for the other items. 72 hour kit (or less) To some, the 72 hour kit is everything they have in their house for disasters. I think this should be what you take with you if you have to evacuate (even on foot). If you can't carry 72 hours worth of food and water (that is a lot of water even if you only plan 2 quarts per day), scale it down and put the rest in a car bug out kit that can be used in your house or on the road. You can also make a similar kit for work or other places you are likely to be in an emergency. It should be in a medium sized backpack that you can easily carry (get a rain cover for the backpack (or make one)—these really help in wet conditions). Again, repeat items in your smaller kits as you see fit. Here are some suggestions:
It's a Disaster! Book (or print out a similar one) Personal mini-kit and fanny pack or vest (attached to you separately from the backpack) Water (as much as you can fit without making the bag too heavy, you can carry some containers empty and fill them later) Changes of clothes (several underwear and socks, long underwear) Jacket, hat, and sunglasses Sleeping bag or blanket (and compact pad), hammock Soap and other toiletries (comb, nail clippers and razor) Small stove and/or lantern (or directions and supplies for making one of the stoves above) Small tent or tarp and netting, plastic sheeting, tent poles and stakes (multipurpose) Stuff sacks, mesh bags, pillow cases for organization Duct tape Hatchet or machete, folding saw Small shovel Rope, twine and bungee cords Backpacking pot/pan Cooking and eating utensils (kitchen knife, can opener, spatula, spoon, forks, plates, cups) Foil Dish soap, sponge, dish pan or bucket (collapsible) (also a wash basin or bucket), towel Food (Snacks and MREs as well as rice) Vitamins Detailed road maps topo maps Extra ammo Pocket warmers A GPS, FRS radio (everyone with a list of channels to use), am/fm radio, solar calculator, or CB (whatever you have that fits) Copies of important documents, phone numbers, extra credit card, cash, ID Comfort items (book, cards, bible, pictures, coloring books, games) Car Kit Keep this in the car if possible. I used to keep a lot of this in my car but since some of it was stolen, I keep most of it in the house and load it up for longer trips. I have something similar to the personal fanny pack that I keep hidden in the jack compartment.
72 hour kit:::: Flashlight and batteries Fire extinguisher Jumper cables Seat belt cutter and window breaker (keep within reach) Water (bottles can go under the seats) Matches Gloves Tarps Garbage bags Wipes Maps Driving compass Rope and/or tow strap and bungee cords First aide kit (any medications) Siphon hose for water or gas (do not drink gas) Window washer/scraper Crowbar and other tools (hammer, saw, wrenches, duct tape, fuses, belts, and screws) Ax, bucket and shovel (this is required in some forests) Engine oil Gas can (keep it empty and unused unless you have a place for it on the outside of your car or truck) Stuff you take if you have to Bug Out This is stuff that is too heavy to carry in your 72 hour kit but something you can throw in your car (in addition to what is already there) quickly if you need to evacuate. You might be able to take it in a garden cart if you can't drive but travel by roads is still safe. Here is an example to help you make your own kit (or here). Pack it in crates or duffle bags. Here are some suggestions (what fits in your car will vary):
More survival books or books on camping/country/simple living 5 gallon water cans (full) Food (cans and other heavy bulky items) Cooler (grab some ice and any travel friendly fresh items that are still good like cheese, peanut butter, apples, lemons, and bread) Large first aide kitDutch oven Stove and fuel or barbeque, Kelly Kettle Lantern (Petromax is good but expensive) Unscented bleach Tent and large tarps, rugs Blanket and pillows (sleeping pad, hammock, or cot) Paper plates, utensils and cups Paper towels and wipes Foil Solar shower Bucket toilet (you can store garbage bags, toilet paper, wipes, and soap inside the bucket) Many garbage bags Laundry soap Clothes pins Soap and shampoo Ant traps and insecticides Fishing gear Radio and batteries Several extra fuel cans (enough to get to your destination without refueling) Propane heater with fuel Generator Small safe for guns and documents Bikes (on rack and with pump and tire repair kit) Frisbee or other games First Aid and Medical Kits Take a first aide class and more training if you can. For supplies, the place to start is with a pre-made small portable first aide kit and a larger h---items are ones I may need in the future). Amazon and Moore Medical have most of the items if you can't find them locally. For the house or car first aide kit, I suggest a hard sided box like a tool box. Dental care is also important. A toothache is really distracting. A little dental kit like this could make you a lot more comfortable until you can see a dentist.
Other Kits Make other kits as you see fit. I have a kit that is mainly in case of terrorist attack (I live and work too close to a likely target). I have Jane's Chem-Bio Handbook and what to do if a nuclear attack in imminent as well as Potassium Iodide (seven days), plastic sheeting, duct tape, Tyvek clothes coverings, and a face mask (this is not as good as a gas mask but its what I have). You can spread this to your other kits if you want.
Security Protecting yourself from criminals is as natural as buying a fire extinguisher to put out fires (but more expensive). Get fences, dead bolts, and lock your windows at night but if someone really wants to get in your home they will. Police take an average of 11 minutes or more to respond to violent crimes 40 percent of the time (sometimes hours), under normal conditions. A lot can happen in 11 minutes and you are going to wait a lot longer in a crisis. When someone is kicking in your door, it is too late to go buy a gun. You are on your own. Relying on the kindness of someone breaking into your home is not a good bet.
If you are a gun person, pick your own gun. This advice if for those who don't own a gun or don't shoot. I suggest a pistol, a rifle and a shotgun for every adult (check you local gun laws). If I had to only have one gun it would be a shotgun because of their versatility. A 20 gauge shotgun is more than enough for most purposes including home defense and has less recoil than a 12 gauge. The Remington 870 is a great choice but many people also like Mossberg. Take a class on using the shotgun for home defense. For home defense ammo, I use bird shot. This will not penetrate and stop a criminal as fast as buck shot but is also less likely to go through a wall and hurt an innocent person. Make your own decision here based on who is in adjoining rooms and how close the neighbors are. You can always load bird shot as the first few shells followed by buck shot (keep about 200 rounds on hand because it will be hard to buy in a crisis). The only options I recommend are hearing protection, glasses, a cleaning kit, a sling (guns with slings don't get set down in bad places as much) and maybe a light or night sights. I think the factory stocks are fine.
Next on my list would be a .22. The Ruger Single Six is a nice revolver that is convertible to either 22 LR or 22 magnum (This might be a better choice as the only gun for some people). Also get a holster for it. Savage and CZ make bolt action rifles that are great bargains. A .22 is a ---Learn the gun safety rules and locking up any guns not on your body is a good idea and a necessity if you have kids (or adults who act like kids) in your home. For pistols you can get a cheap keyed safe for about $20 (also good for documents). Then you have to hide the key where you can find it quickly but no one else can. A combination safe is better but a lot more expensive (practice opening it in the dark).---If you decide against a gun, at least get pepper spray, a baseball bat, or a flashlight. A self-defense class would be good too (martial arts classes are good but take a long time to become practical). A bullet proof vest and helmet would be good but neither is inexpensive. Finally, there is safety in numbers. Staying with family and friends during a crisis is a good idea if resources and space allow.----First Steps
Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water. Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack as necessary. Get some food grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place. Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and ways to deal with them. What is your plan to deal with each? Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash. Practice. This doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water (in your backyard to start with). Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had to evacuate. How long did it take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out of town. Go hiking with your 72 hour kit. Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans. Books and other sources (in order of relevance and grouped)---books:If your local libraries participate, a great resource is Worldcat. It lets you search for books from home, then go check them out, or get them through interlibrary loan.---I have canned butter, cheese, bread, and meats. My other job allows me to get discounts on a product called a Vittle Vault. An 80 gallon air/water tight container which I use to bury my other food (all freeze dried pouches) but not before sealing it in plastic from a nifty device I found at Costco one day ( One day I was shopping at Costco and I stopped to look at something e---I have a Black Berkey water filtration system, with a half dozen back up filters and several 5 gallon buckets for either the collection of snow or from the stream out back, or to use as an emergency dry toilet.
I am a faithful practitioner of homeopathic remedies,and have quite the collection of remedies and books and homeopathic today magazines. Which I read all the time, to keep it fresh in my memory. Also read a lot of medical/ wilderness first aid books. Took a class---I'm obtaining a [State-issued] Firearms Identification (FID) card soon, God willing for a long gun or three. Handguns are not allowed in Massachusetts for subjects err I mean citizens. Also magazines over ten rounds are not permissible unless one has a handgun permit for that as well or its off to jail for a year, no questions asked. Trying my best to avoid the jail part.---bad it will be and how long it will last?. No clue but history shows major wars start with major economic troubles.--- for whatever. I do not wish the dollar to die but if it does die then I hope it enjoys a long, very long lingering death. - Scott V.
JWR Replies: I commend you for your dedication, Scott. I have long held the opinion that true preparedness is more about skills than it is about money. I have a lot of wealthy consulting clients that have heaps of supplies and tools, but I have my doubts about their ability to actually survive ---Tuesday December 25 2007 Letter Re: Hunkering Down in an Urban Apartment in a Worst Case Societal Collapse---Water. Even with extreme conservation measures you will need at least one gallon of water per day. That one gallon of water will provide just enough w---Food. For a six month stay, you will need far more than just 50 pounds of rice! Work out a daily menu and budget for an honest six month supply of food with a decent variety and sufficient caloric intake. Don't overlook vitamin supplements to make up for the lack of fresh fruit and vegetables. Sprouting ---Sanitation. Without water for flushing toilets, odds are that people in neighboring apartments will dump raw sewage out their windows, causing a---Space heating. In mid-winter you could freeze to death in your apartment without supplemental heat. As I will discuss later, a small heater or just a few candles can keep the air temperature above freezing.
Ventilation. If you are going to use any source of open flame, you will need lots of additional ventilation. Asphyxiation from lack of oxygen or slow carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning are the alternatives. Unfortunately, in the circumstances that you envision, the increased ventilation required to mitigate these hazards will be a security risk--as a conduit for the smell of food or fuel, as a source of light that can be seen from outside the apartment, and as an additional point of entry for robbers.
Security. The main point of entry for miscreants will probably be your apartment door. Depending on the age of your apartment, odds are that you have a traditional solid core wood door. In a situation where law and order has evaporated, the malo hombres will be able to take their time and break through doors with fire axes, crow bars and improvised battering rams. It is best to replace wooden apartment doors with steel ones. Unless you own a ---Self Defense. To fend off intruders, or for self defense when you eventually emerge from your apartment, you will need to be well-armed. Preferably you should also be teamed with at least two other armed and trained adults. Look into local legalities on large volume pepper spray dispensers. These are marketed primarily as bear repellent, with brand names like "Guard Alaska", "Bear Guard", and "17% Streetwise." If they are indeed legal in your jurisdiction, then buy several of the big one-pound dispensers, first making sure that they are at least a 12% OC formulation.---If you can get a firearms permit--a bit complicated in New York City , but not an insurmountable task--then I recommend that you get a Remington, Winchester, or Mossberg 12 gauge pump action shotgun with a SureFire flashlight forend. #4 Buckshot (not to be confused with the much smaller #4 bird shot) is the best load for defense in an urban environment where over-penetration (into neighboring apartments) is an issue. But if getting a firearms permit proves too daunting, there is a nice exemption in the New York City firearms laws for muzzleloaders and pre-1894 manufactured antique guns that are chambered for cartridges that are no longer commercially made. It is not difficult to find a Winchester Model 1876 or a Model 1886 rifle that is in a serial number range that distinguishes it as pre-1894 ---Firearms training from a quality school (such as Front Sight) is crucial.
Fire Detection and Contingency Bug-Out. A battery-powered smoke detector is an absolute must. Even if you are careful with candles, lanterns, and cook stoves, your neighbors may not be. There is a considerable risk that your apartment building will catch fire, either intentionally of unintentionally. Therefore, you need to have a "Bug Out" backpack ready to grab at a moment's notice. Although they are no proper substitute for a fireman's compressed air breathing rig, a commercially-made egress smoke hood or a military surplus g---Warsaw, Poland, during the Second World War. Following the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto uprising and forced deportation, Szpilman spent many months locked in a Warsaw apartment, receiving just a few parcels of food from some gentile friends. In his situation, the power and water utilities were still operating most of the time, but he suffered from slow starvation and lived in absolute fear of making any noise. His survival absolutely defied the odds. There was a---Exercise. While you are "hunkered down", you will need to maintain muscle tone. Get some quiet exercise equipment, such as a pull-up bar and some large elastic straps. Perhaps, if your budget allows in the future, also purchase or construct your own a quiet stationary bicycle-powered generator. This would provide both exercise and battery charging.
Sanity. .Hunkering down solo in silence for six months would be a supreme challenge, both physically and mentally. Assuming that you can somehow tackle all of the aforementioned problems, you also need to plan to stay sane. Have lots of reading materials on hand.
In conclusion, when one considers the preceding long list of dependencies and complexities, it makes "staying put" in a worst case very unattractive. In less inimical circumstance, it is certainly feasible, but in a grid-down situation with utilities disrupted and wholesale looting and rioting in progress, the big city is no place to live. But, as always, this is just my perspective and your mileage may vary (YMMV).
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Monday December 17 2007 Letter Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget a woman!!!:---I am one of those weird (smart?) people who was raised in the city, but for some reason, never belonged. From earliest childhood, I was always "preparing" long before I really knew what for. In other words, I was not your typical "raised in captivity" child. I learned to sew at nine, and spent a lot of time making sleeping bags and fancy wall tents for my Barbies, then set up elaborate campsite in the backyard, complete with chopped firewood, and water storage systems. (I did say I was weird, remember?)
I also used to spend weeks playing dolls with my sister and friends, but not like most girls. We had a favorite scenario in which we ran a huge orphanage which sprung into being because of some horrible disaster. The disaster didn't matter. What mattered was being able to care for all our babies with no power or outside help. (I nearly set the basement on fire once during these episodes) Later when my family moved to a suburban/rural area, I was finally able to indulge more aspects of my survivalist side. I got into horses. And I mean I lived and breathed horses. Not just the typical horse crazy girl stuff...no, I had to practice loading my severely injured (or dead) friends onto my horse, practiced packing all sorts of gear on my horse, etc.
I began target shooting as a youngster with my father (who also took me on long hikes from the age of six on) but during my teen years I learned how to reload, thanks to a wonderful like-minded guy. We were kindred spirits, and spent hours reloading during the week so we could shoot for hours on the weekends. He taught me how to field strip a .45 Model 1911 in under 45 seconds blindfolded, among other things. ( Can't you just see the headlines if some high school kids were seen doing this today?)
I began gardening, canning and dehydrating at 16. My mother thought I'd lost my mind when I came home all excited about the fact that the owner of the stable where I kept my horse said I could plant a garden in the old chicken pen. I was sure busy that summer.
Fast forward 6-7 years: I am now married and having babies. After living in dinky houses in town, I convince my husband to buy a house on acreage. We find a wonderful little 800 square foot house on five acres about 20 miles from where we work (which was in a very small town about 20 miles from a large metro area) And the cycle started in my childhood continued.
I raise horses, goats for milk and make cheese, cows for meat, chickens for eggs and meat. I try my hand at rabbits, successfully building a huge herd of breeders, and selling fryers commercially for a couple years before a family disaster forced me to sell. My garden is bigger, and I can enough to see us through every year till the next garden. Pigs are raised on leftovers. We heat only with firewood. Life is busy, but good.
Later, when the kids are bigger, I get into a sport that seemed custom-made for me. Endurance riding. We had moved from our five acre place to a larger spread which bordered on State land, and I began spending hours riding alone for miles every day of the week. (I quit working outside the home when my kids were 2 and 4 years old. I didn't see the point of paying someone else to raise my kids.) Even some of my endurance friends say I take it to the extreme. I always pack everything imaginable with me: Pistol (and rifle during hunting season) first aid kit, feed for my horse, food for me, shovel, saw, you name it, it's on my horse or myself. Everything except a cell phone. Nearly everywhere I ride a cell phone doesn't work, so why bother? I feel they just give a false sense of security and prevent proper survival thinking.
Fast forward 20 years: I divorce and start over. My kids are grown and I am thoroughly pleased with how they turn out. My daughter learned early on how to do oil changes and tune-ups on the old Ford pickup trucks I always drive. My son took his skills further. He can rebuild any old rig from the ground up. They both know a lot about farm animals and gardening, and both are avid campers. Both shoot, though my daughter can't hold a candle to her brother. He is by far the best shooter I have ever seen. I once watched him shoot a starling through the neck from 75 yards, offhand in the wind with a .22 [rimfire rifle]. The bird was sitting at the top of a 75 foot fir tree, and m---behind. This means Your primary objective is to make it home safely and quickly. By any means necessary: your return airline ticket, the rental vehicle, alternative transportation, or if all else fails, on foot. Under no circumstances do you want to be swept into the mainstream of refugees, wandering aimlessly to eventually be herded into government “aid facilities”. (---along a number of key items like edged weapons. Granted, you’re less equipped during your flight, but life is full of compromises. Keep your medications, food, flashlight, communications gear, money and a couple of layers of clothing with you on the plane. If you can’t do without a briefcase, forgo the fancy leather banker version in favor of nylon w/ a shoulder carry strap. You must be ready to carry everything you need on your back in the event you have to walk it home, and the right briefcase can become an asset [instead of a hindrance.]---Use the layering approach – a fold-up waterproof hooded shell in a dark color, collapsible down vest and/or a couple of fleece or thin wool sweaters, and an Under-Armour-style inner layer (remember you are fitting all this into a standard piece of luggage). Bring sturdy hiking shoes; wear them on the plane, and keep your dress shoes handy in your checked luggage. Bring at least two pair of hiking socks and liners (one to wear, the other undergoing wash/dry), even if it’s just an overnight trip, comfortable pants, a warm hat with ventilation and a good brim, sunglasses, and thin gloves. By wearing the heavier/bulkier items as you travel, you minimize the space demands on the luggage. Include a bandana or two – they have a thousand uses.----Food - You want compactness, indefinite storage, and high energy density, so you can stay on the go for several days. My favorite is Go Lean energy bars. Generally, look for high fiber brands, as they ward off hunger longer. Unsalted peanuts and M&Ms are also good choices. I bring 6-12 bars, secreted in nooks and crannies. Get a set of lexan resin eating utensils from a hiking store, and a P-38 can opener (put that in checked luggage). If things go longer, use your cash or resort to hobo cooking (canned food heated over fire). Water - make your canteen from the 24-oz water bottle you bought for your flight, by bringing along a water bottle carry strap like those found at amusement parks. Don’t forget a small bottle of purification tablets – you can use your bandana as a 1st-tier sieve/filter.
Self-defense - Limited options due to the TSA restrictions for airline flights. Mailing firearms to yourself at your hotel [for an extended stay] is theoretically possible, but really very impractical in most business trips. In any event do bring your folding knife with combination straight and serrated blade (two is better than one) in you checked baggage, an impact weapon like a nylon kubotan or a carabiner employed as a keychain, and a flashlight (w/ multiple extra batteries) that is blindingly bright and sturdy enough to be used as an impact weapon . Make sure the carabiner is a real one from a hiking store, and is big enough to get all your fingers into so you can use it as “aluminum knuckles”. For carry-on, bring several thick rubber bands, so you can tightly wrap one of those in-flight magazines into a makeshift club. In an emergency after you arrive, if you cannot acquire a firearm or larger edged weapon, then use your folding knife to fashion a sturdy walking staff / club / spear from a mop handle or similar. Hiking stores carry very compact sharpening stones that can clip to your coat’s zipper – if you are in transit for a couple of weeks, you will need to keep an edge on your knives. Note that in some locales such as England and New York City, carrying a knife, or any “weapon” is illegal. Be informed, and use your own judgment. [JWR Adds: A roll of quarters (or British One Pound Coins or One Euro coins) can serve the dual purpose of being an impact weapon (a "Sunday Bar") and being available to make emergency pay phone calls. I can't imagine any jurisdiction that would charge you with carrying a "concealed" roll of coins. (Although once I witnessed the TSA goons asking a fellow passenger to take the dimes out of a paper roll and confiscate the coin roll paper. Oh, I felt so much safer after they did that!)]---Shelter / Light - Keep it simple and lightweight for starters, and pick up stuff as you go. Strike anywhere matches in a waterproof container and a magnesium striker-type fire-starter in checked baggage; buy a disposable lighter or two on arrival and discard on return, a space blanket, and one or two 3-mil thick contractor garbage bags for rain poncho, ground cloth, and/or tarp, and 50 feet of parachute cord. Have an LED microlight on your keychain, in red illumination, with an extra button battery or two. This conserves your tactical flashlight’s life. [If things looks bad,] borrow the bedding from your hotel----drugs (dont use them) to keep people happy:Medications and First Aid - Don’t assume you’ll be home in a day or so. Bring enough prescription meds for at least two weeks. I also bring a very small first aid kit – it fits into a pants pocket and holds band-aids, a disinfectant cream, sun block in stick form, ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea pills, and tweezers. Separately, I include a couple of sanitary napkins and tape as a compress, and a small bottle of insect repellant. Having balance is key here – you will not need a full kit. If you break a leg or are shot, you will need more help than you can self-administer. To stay clean, I take a refill pack of baby wipes, a trial size bottle of hand sanitizer, and a small bar of soap. I also bring a blister kit for my feet – most people don’t hike 30 miles a day with a pack, and blisters can be totally immobilizing, with an attendant risk of infection. Taking good measures with your feet, starting with the right footwear will help you get home in one piece.---remem the elpel-book four-edibles (no dangerous look-alikes):pine,grass,cattails,acorns---long, it became clear that not only is foraging for wild plant potentially more efficient than snaring wild game, its also much easier. There are almost always edible plants all around you, no matter where you are. Usually within arms reach! Case in point: The Pine Tree.
Pine needles can be easily brewed into tea which contains many nutrients and vitamins. Pine cones can be roasted over a fire (you did start a fire already, right?) to open the cone and access the seeds inside. In a longer term situation…those same seeds can also be ground into a type of course flour. One can also east the inner bark of Pine trees if nothing else is available. And that’s just the common Pine tree, which grows almost everywhere! Speaking of Tree bark: remember that Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) was originally derived from teas made from the inner bark of the Willow tree. Anyway, you get the point. A little study on the matter can go a long way toward making you self sufficient as far as food is concerned, by enabling you to supplement your dry-stores (you do have food stores, right?) with fresh greens providing vitamins and nutrients year round. Just remember what ---Tuesday October 9 2007 Cold Weather Survival Tips, by David in Israel
James, Winter is coming [in the northern hemisphere]. An important skill is treating and preventing cold exposure, especially if a person is disabled and on the ground. The ground steals heat through direct conduction and by absorption of moisture.
Always go out well fed, include plenty of protein, copious warm hydrating liquids, and fats. Together these break down in a heat generating reaction as well as providing large amounts of energy for more heat generation.
Have a way to make a warm drink. A Thermos is skimping, better a small stove that is easily lit and kettle that will let you melt snow and make hot water to drink, this saves your body from having to heat your drinks and also raises your core temperature if you get chilled or worse. Cold drinks bring down body temperature and the metabolism required to heat it to body temperature nearly requires as much water as you are consuming, un-melted snow is actually hydration negative due to the metabolism [required] to bring it to body temperature.
Insulate from the ground, dry grass leaves, seat pad foam, clothing, whatever. The ground will steal your body heat quickly.
Share warmth with a friend or more, huddle, hug, stack up as injuries allow.
Protect the heat loss areas. Cover first the head, then armpits, groin, trunk, and finally the extremities.---living. The reasons these days are for healthy living and potential survival scenarios. Living ‘healthy’ during a non-survival scenario is one thing, living healthy during a survival scenario is quite different. Fitness doesn’t just happen. Fitness is accomplished by adopting good habits of exercise, nutrition and rest. ---Diet and Nutrition: Assess what you are eating and how you feel. Eating fast food? Too many carbs? Sweet tooth? Living on coffee and cigarettes? Or, are you already eating a healthy diet? Either way, the new stresses added to your daily routine in a survival scenario will cause your body new stresses. You will either keep up or break down. It really depends on your present habits. An individual who is fit and maintains a healthy diet will be able to make the transition from living in the present day to a survival mode relatively easy. Adrenaline will carry the day for a brief time. But after the adrenaline subsides, what’s left in the tank and where is the energy required to keep up coming from? I know many over the years who have maintained poor diets but had excellent workout routines. They were mostly the younger generation. It always catches up with them. They usually become injured/hurt, sick, and/or are tired…but then they come back after a rest period and the cycle repeats itself. If you have poor fitness and a poor diet, you are advised to alter both. The body wants good clean fuel, not items containing too many carbs, items made with hydrogenated oils, trans fats, a diet loaded with sugar (sodas, desserts, snack(s)…). Also overlooked is hydration. Re-hydrating is critical. Once you begin to exercise, you have to replace your fluids. Not doing so will result in cramping, tiredness, and/or can result in heat exhaustion if not replacing fluids while exercising. Watch the sports drinks as some have lots of sugar. I always dilute my quarts of Gatorade 50-50 [with water]. Too much sugar can prevent the hydration you are seeking. ‘Emergen-C’ is a product I use daily to keep the immune system strong. It contains numerous vitamins and supplements in small packets mixed in water. Particularly good is the chromium, sodium, several antioxidants, vitamin C and low sugar content. Some final words regarding overall diet and fitness are: everyone has time to eat right. If you believe you are eating ‘right’ but are under/overweight, then your diet needs improvement.----- Jim, I grew up in the bomb shelter/Cold War era. A neighbor two houses down actually dug out their front yard to install a bomb shelter. My folks had a rudimentary bug-out bag and we always kept a month's worth of food on hand. Hey, for the 1950s, that was progressive thinking so I guess I come by being into preparedness naturally.
I hold advanced degrees but my education does not get in the way of exercising common sense. It is obvious that our complex society is too interdependent to survive major interruptions and we have numerous examples to look at (the L.A. riots, Hurricane Katrina, and such). To believe that a major interruption of services could not occur is delusional. The empirical evidence is right in front of us. The family which is prepared has far fewer w----- I prepare to survive because I see it as part of the natural cycle of human civilization. Something in us wants to forget the lessons of what makes us a great society and start living on borrowed riches and capabilities. Eventually, that living beyond our means catches up with us via a natural disaster, economic collapse or societal conflict.
If we were not to prepare to survive then we are doomed to fail and live miserably under the dictates of someone else. If we prepare we are not guaranteed to have prepared for the right situation, or enough, but at least we have a much better than average chance. In the end, I am an optimist. No matter how bad things get they will eventually get better. We can speed up our own recovery and that of our community’s by preparing now. If we do not, then we may end up wallowing in misery and struggling for the barest necessities. Is that the kind of life God wants for us? I think not. I believe God wants us to live wisely and prepare to prosper under all conditions. That takes discipline and short-term sacrifice.
-- Jim, your blog rocks. I only hope that I can learn and earn fast enough to take advantage of the incredible information that your forum provides before TEOTWAWKI.
I have a beautiful 6 month old son who is totally innocent to the ways in which TPTB (the powers that be) are systematically destroying nature, American Democratic principles and threatening the survival of humanity. He deserves a chance in this life, regardless of whether or not he'll ever get to visit Sam's Club, get a college scholarship, drive a V-8 or own an iPod.
When things start to get dicey, and as the world as we know it begins to fall apart - most likely permanently- he will be just coming up in age and entering what should be the most wondrous years of a child's life.
For him, and for my future children, I will fill their youthful imaginations with nature, tools, projects, outdoor adventure and practical knowledge. Before I let the idiot-box and America's media-driven junk-culture destroy their understanding of their place in God's kingdom (and the animal kingdom), they will know what to eat and how to hunt it, how to garden, how to fix stuff and how to avoid trouble in a society that in the future will eventually fail entirely by trying to eliminate all risk of failure here in the present.
They will be encouraged to learn practical trades: veterinary sciences, engineering, construction, medicine and alternative medicine, martial arts, food production and off-the-grid technology solutions.
No bankers, real-estate agents, financial analysts, politicians or computer graphic designers in this family, Jim. No sireeee bubba.
I have always believed that those people who want to throw God's gift of life away through risk, recklessness, attempted suicide or plain old bad lifestyle habits are doomed to live longer.
I have also questioned since1987 when the U.S.S. Stark got hit by our"allies" escorting black gold in the Persian Gulf how long our cheeseburger-driven, cheap-oil, fiat-money, fake-friends and fear of loss-driven society can keep going.
Therefore I will survive this impending paradigm-shift in human existence in order to see my children prevail into adulthood, and for my morbid curiosity to see how all this B.S. I have put up with my entire life winds-up in the end of my days.
It won't be easy however. Here in Texas, not 1 in 1000 people has a clue what might be coming in the next few years. Even after [Hurricane] Katrina pushed a not-so-golden horde of 150,000 low income welfare dependents onto the greater Houston area. I guess that bad stuff only happens to others, right?
I'll be heading for the hills soon enough I hope, and taking my brood to a ---It’s the type with all the little bells in it." But seriously, the bells are an effective noisemaker and have served my family (especially my kids) well over the years. Also keep on the lookout for bear sign, including tracks, scat, scratched up trees/posts and dug up ground to alert you to definite bear presence in the area. The advice of making noise on the trail may become more of an liability than an asset in certain situations. Hunters obviously would need to observe some noise discipline once they reach their hunting grounds. Also, OPSEC concerns may cause some people to need to travel through the wilderness extremely quietly, come TEOTWAWKI. Just remember that even the largest of bears can travel extremely quietly, and when one does encounter a bear along a trail, they always seem to come from nowhere with little or no warning. My last Grizzly encounter: Three of us were hiking and stopped along the trail for a water break. I looked over my shoulder and there was an 8 foot tall Griz standing on his hind legs less than 20 feet away. He made no sound, no rustling in the willow thicket, and gave no warning at all. In those situations, keep you eyes and ears open, and be ready for anything that comes your way. (More on encountering a bear, below) Camp Safety This one is actually very simple, and boils down to just one thing: Keep yourself and your camp as clean and sanitary as possible. The following bulleted points will be important in reducing the risk of a bear encounter/attack while at the campsite. - Select a good campsite in bear country. Avoid setting up your camp next to a huge patch of blueberries (or other food source) for example. Before setting up your camp, scout the area looking for any signs of bear activity. T---encountering a bear. - STAY CALM! Assess your situation, and use your best judgment. Remember that there are no actions guaranteed to be life saving when encountering a wild animal. A bear just like a dog or any other animal can sense fear. Screaming or throwing things or otherwise acting aggressively toward the bear may provoke an attack. - Never feed or otherwise approach a bear. Even (or especially) a cub who appears all alone may have mom very near by, and if you are closer to the cub than the mother bear is, you will likely be seen as a threat. - Do not run away! This should be a LAST RESORT. Running away from a predator may excite it to chase after you. (Its predatory instinct). Running can essentially turn a non-aggressive bear into a real threat. Besides bear can run as fast as 30 miles and hour, so the possibility of outrunning a bear is next to zero. - If there is space, simply continue to face the bear and slowly back away while speaking to the bear in a calm even voice. Once a safe distance from the bear, raise your noise level so the bear can be aware of your location and attempt to find an alternative route to your destination if possible. (Ntte: In well over 40 unexpected bear encounters I have had, this simple t---- Playing dead is only an option if you are viewed as a threat to the bear. If you startle a bear or if you get to close to a cub, you are a threat and playing dead may remove the threat for the bear and end the attack. - If a bear attacks you in a tent, or from the open, in a situation where it has a chance to escape but charges anyway, then playing dead is most likely not an option. These types of attacks are generally by juveniles and occur in the fall when they are desperate to pack on some weight before winter. In such a scenario, you would be viewed as a source of food, not a threat, so your choices would be to run or fight back at all costs. - It is said that playing dead is generally more effective with Grizzly bears rather than black bears. I’m not sure why that is the case, but several game b---the the water pressure gone. I grew up in NYC and the only place I can think of to get water in that scenario would be the reservoir in Harlem. A dangerous place in the best of times. Also, with a pack, you'll sweat more. I can get by on very little water in my office, but on a trail with a pack in the noon day sun I get dehydrated real fast. Television peeve #2 is the one shot kill (and one punch knock out). Just shoot the bad guy once and he's down? Unless it is a central nervous system hit (spinal cord or brain) he's not down. Even a heart shot gives him enough time, say 6 seconds, to stab you or shoot back if he's angry or drugged enough. How far can a man run in 6 seconds? Will he close the gap? It's not whether the bad guy dies from the wounds you inflict on him, it's whether you kill him in such a way as to deny him the ability to return the favor.
FWIW, here is a compilation of my top 15 survival fantasies and misconceptions:
1. You can fit everything you need for extended survival in a backpack 2. A single shot not hitting the brain or spinal cord less or than .40/.44/.45 caliber will stop an attacker before he can kill you 3. I don't need to bring that much water 4. The government is here to help 5. I'm in good enough shape right now to hike 20 miles with a 70 pound pack 6. Everything I have stored still works, hasn't expired, I know how to use it and I know where it is 7. I can buy what I need at the first sign of impending crisis 8. My kids can keep up with me on an extended hike 9. Farming/livestock/hunting/fishing/trapping are easy to learn from a book, I don't need practical experience 10. God will help me. I'll be in the right place at the right time if I am a good person 11. I can argue/discuss/bargain with a bad guy(s). I don't have to shoot them. 12. If I shoot them, I can wound them, I don't have to kill. 13. By virtue of my obvious survival knowledge, foresight and preparedness, my family/friends/neighbors will agree that I am the best suited to lead our newly formed fledgling survival group and will listen and carry out my suggestions. 14. Life in TEOTWAWKI will be fun. Since there will be no more taxes/bills/mortgage to pay and I don't have to show up for work it will be hard but rewarding. Add that to the satisfaction of being able to say "I told you so" and given my preparations, I'll be better off then than I am now. 15. My stash of silver pre-1965 coins will let me live like a king
Survival fantasies. We all have them, and we all need to lose them. - SF in Hawaii---All of the preceding is not to say that you shouldn't own a Get Out of Dodge ("GOOD") backpack. You should have one, especially if you don't live year round at your intended retreat. (The pack is only intended for a very short period, to get you to your retreat, in the event that for whatever reason a vehicle is not available.) You should dread ever having to use that pack when forced to abandon your well-stocked retreat and taking off on foot to fend for yourself.---Tuesday December 12 2006 Letter Re: The James Kim Exposure Death Tragedy: Lessons to Be Learned Sir: I live in Curry County [Oregon], and on occasion travel the road over the mountains to Galice. I think that the primary lesson to learn from his tragedy is that you have to know where you are. The SOP for being lost in the woods is to "hug a tree" and wait for rescue. That doesn't always work around here, and Mr. Kim wasn't necessarily wrong in trying to walk out for help. Several years ago, in March, a guy was found on that same road, frozen, sitting in his pickup waiting for rescue. He'd been missing since November. Another common piece of advice for people stuck in the woods is to travel downhill, find water, and follow it downstream. That doesn't work here either. You will end up cold, wet, and trapped at the bottom of a cliff. Around here you have to go uphill until you find a logging spur or an old log deck [also called a log landing or log yard] and then build a big fire. Actually, if Mr. Kim had just stayed on the road, he could have walked to either Galice or Agness in one hard day. You have to know where you are, and adapt accordingly. ---Tuesday October 31 2006 Letter Re: Walking Sticks for Self Defense
James: Regarding walking sticks, I'd suggest folks look at two sites. One would be Cold Steel, where they can assemble a pretty stout, flexible and lethal combo from their waxwood poles, their Bushman knives, and steel sections applied to the staff near the ends. The Bushman's sheath can be leather or parachute cord "strapped" onto the staff, and when needed be affixed to the end and voila! ... staff becomes spear. Alas, they no longer have the staffs on their site, but the Bushmans are there, and the rest is a simple exercise in measurement and a half-hour of handiwork. The steel appliques made the ends of the staff even more ... "functional" .... than already. As I think about it, wire wrap applied at one end would yield the same enhanced rigidity plus the ability to pull some off for snares, construction .... I think that lo-tech approach beats bought "hiking sticks" which may be lightweight and portable, but don't fill other survival roles like a stout stick
Crawford Knives.com and the Crawford clan have made a unique survival staff for years that converts from walking stick to staff to blowgun to spear. Machined to their usual quality and tolerances, it's pricey but the real-deal.
We have both collapsible staffs and the Cold Steel Trailhawks in our vehicles; the Trailhawk does double-duty as a hammer. Best regards for your Good Work done, ---Monday August 21 2006 Letter Re: An Amazing Tale of Survival: Nine Months Adrift in the Pacific
Dear Jim, I think this would be a good story to link to on SurvivalBlog. Three fishermen survived on a 25 foot boat for nine months at sea, doing drastic things to ensure their survival. Two of the men on the boat died because they didn't have the will to live (there were originally five on the boat.) As a sea kayaker who takes safety very seriously, it is a sobering story.---TEOTWAWKI could happen anytime. Have shelter and food preparations made. Install a mobile, shipping container, shed or other shelter on that piece of land. Don't be a grasshopper well armed and trained survivalists with no stored food or shelter are the scariest MZBs of all. Hunger and cold allow people to justify the most outrageous decisions. Even easier to justify decisions such as armed robbery when your family is hurting. We will all stand to be judged by the Creator of the universe in the end.---Canadian rules says 1.5 inch they might be talking about the other way you measure gill nets: That is from the top knot to the side knot then our net is a 1.5 inch mesh. You would think that there would be one standard way to measure nets but that would be too easy.
Here is the basic list for Canadian Bush Pilots: Food with at least 10,000 calories per person Cooking utensils Matches Stove and fuel Compass Axe of at least 2 1/2 pounds Saw Snare wire Fishing equipment (tackle and nets) Mosquito nets and repellent Tents, wing covers or orange signal panels Sleeping bags Signal mirror Distress signals First aid kit Survival manual
Believe me, we have sold lots of gear to bush pilots in Canada, Alaska, and the Lower 48. If I was a bush pilot, this is what I would carry:
A Wiggy's sleeping bag http://www.wiggys.com [JWR Adds: I highly recommend the Wiggy's FTRSS and the Ultima Thule.] Small Katadyn water filter--JRH sells these: https://www.jrhenterprises.com/categoryNavigationDocument.hg?categoryId=16 A small dome tent 10-to-12 [ounce] tarp First Aid kit Signal mirror Distress signal--normal signal flares typically sold at Marine stores Small backpack stove Small bush saw A Estwing steel handled axe Mosquito nets and repellents Small emergency gill net, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Gill-Net.htm Emergency fishing kit, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Fishing-Emergency-Pocket-Kit.htm Regarding firearms, read this article: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Article-Only-One-Gun.htm If I was in big bear (grizzly and brown bear) country I would switch up to a 45-70. :-)
Why the PAL light? Every survivalist should own at least one PAL for every person. The PAL light takes a 9 volt battery. Now why is that important?---BOB:bug-out-bag:ultra-light!:a substantial pack to support the weight. If you choose lighter gear your backpack doesn’t have to be as heavily built. A lighter pack and lighter gear means that your footwear doesn’t have to be as substantial to support your feet, so you can get by with running shoes. Everything ends up being lighter. With typical backpacking gear you might have: 5 lbs. pack 3 lbs. sleeping bag 5 lbs. tent 2 lbs. stove, fuel and pot 1 lb sleeping padThe five heaviest items adds up to 16 lbs. My ultra-light gear: 16 oz. pack 21 oz. down top bag (sleeping bag without bottom) 8 oz. silnylon 8x10 tarp 7 oz. elecric draft wood burning stove* 4 oz. aluminum pot and lid 9 oz. Ridgerest sleeping pad * This is a custom made item. Alcohol or Trioxane stoves are more readily available.The same items add up to 4 bs.,1 oz. This is less than the weight of a typical empty backpack. With ultra light gear it is relatively easy to keep your pack weight, minus food and water, less than 10 lbs. With a total pack weight less than 20 lbs it is possible to walk briskly for long periods of time. Do you regularly travel with 30 to 40 lbs on your back? Add any weapons to your pack and the weight goes up dramatically. A difficult situation is not the time to practice being a beast of burden. In addition, a heavy load will have an impact on your ability to respond to confrontations or emergencies. You should include an ultra-light BOB in your vehicle kit. Packs There are a number of choices for commercially made ultra light backpacks (packs under 2 lbs.). This is a pricey way to go and most of the commercially made packs are still heavier than they need to be. In Beyond Backpacking: Ray Jardine's Guide to Lightweight Hiking the author describes a basic design for an ultra light backpack you can make yourself. It will be lighter, under 1lb., considerably cheaper and will have just the features you want. While you are at it you can make one for each member of your family. Pack Specifications An ultra-light backpack should have an interior volume of about 2500 cubic inches. It shouldn’t be much bigger than this because it is not designed to weigh more than 20 lbs fully loaded. For additional features I like a couple of water bottle pockets on either side that will take the tall 1.5 liter water bottles from the supermarket. I also like a waist strap. The typical backpack has a hip belt and a rigid structure to transfer the weight of the pack to your hips rather than hanging it off your shoulders. Ray Jardine does away with the hip belt to save weight and keeps the pack light enough that it can hang from the shoulders. I also suggest designing your pack so that your sleeping pad (I use a head-to-hip length Ridge Rest) folded in fourths can be fastened in place with two vertical straps inside your pack against the back. This provides structure and padding to protect your back from any hard items in the pack. If the pack is properly loaded it is stiff enough to ride on the top of your butt when pulled into the small of your back by the waist strap. If you arch your back the shoulder straps will stand free of your shoulders. In normal use the shoulder straps bear against the front of your shoulder to keep the pack from falling over backwards. To load the pack, stuff your sleeping bag directly into the pack instead of using a stuff sack. Stuff your other things into the pack pushing the sleeping bag down as necessary. This technique ensures that your pack will always maintains its proper shape no matter how much or how little you put into it. Plans for a 13.5 oz pack can be found on http://www.gossamergear.com/cgi-bin/gossamergear/myog.html Sleeping Bag Many ultra-lighters have moved away from conventional sleeping bags. They are not as efficient as a quilt or top bag. The material and insulation on the bottom just adds weight and expense without doing much to keep you warm. The sleeping pad will provide underneath insulation. Ray Jardine uses a purpose built quilt. I use a down top bag. My basic design for a top bag is 38” wide at the foot by 48” wide at the top by as long as it needs to be to accommodate your height. I included a short zipper to create a pocket for my legs from the knees down. It would be lighter without the zipper but the zipper allows it to be opened up for use as a quilt. There is a drawstring at the top with Velcro tabs at the top corners. I also attached 10” wide “wings” to the sides of the bag from the top down to the zipper. I tuck these pieces of fabric under myself when I lie down. Some of the commercial top bags use straps that run underneath you and join the two sides together When I crawl into my bag I zip up the foot and put my legs into it while sitting up. I adjust the drawstring to fit around my neck. I fasten the Velcro tabs behind my neck. I lie down and roll from side to side so I can tuck the "wings" under me. I cover my head with a jacket or wear a down hood to bed. Plans and materials for a 17 oz. down quilt can be found on http://www.thru-hiker.com Shelter A Silnylon tarp is a very popular shelter solution for the ultra-light hiking crowd. It will provide the same advantages for you in your ultra-light BOB. Silnylon is lightweight rip stop nylon that has been saturated with silicone based water proofing compound. It increases the weight and strength of the fabric slightly and makes it waterproof. The waterproofing can’t peel off and since the fabric is completely impregnated with waterproofing the uncoated side can’t become saturated with water like typical coated fabrics. It is the lightest and strongest waterproof fabric reasonably available and makes an excellent lightweight tarp. I also made a very satisfactory pack with this material. Fabric, completed tarps and setup instructions can be found on http://www.thru-hiker.com and http://www.ultralighttarps.com. I use a 5’x8’ ft. flat tarp weighing about 8 oz. as a single person shelter. An 8’x10’ ft. tarp provides better protection for two people than if you each have you own 5’x8’ tarp. Stoves The most popular stoves for ultra-light hikers are homemade alcohol stoves and tablet stoves that burn commercial (Esbit) tablets or military heat tablets [Hexamine "heat tabs", or Trioxane.] The commercial backpacking cartridge stoves are the next lightest option but they cost considerably more to buy and operate and they weigh more. I would recommend a solid fuel stove for your BOB. The alcohol is at greater risk of being lost through leakage or damage to the container than are solid fuel tablets. Coghlan’s (http://www.coghlans.com/) sells a stove and tablet combo pack for about $5. Other Items I have covered the heaviest items above. The other things you need should be examined just as carefully for their balance of weight versus utility. Clothes – Merino wool top, socks and underwear; down vest or jacket Shoes – comfortable lightweight trail runners Wind Shell/Rain Gear – Provent or Frog Toggs are light weight, inexpensive, waterproof and breathable Pot – Walmart aluminum grease pot is light and cheap Ground sheet – Silnylon Water Purification – Aqua Mira Implementing these ultra-light backpacking techniques provide not only the lightest solutions but also oftentimes the least expensive solution. Don’t imagine that you can walk any distance carrying your BOB unless you have actually prepared to carry it. The techniques I have outlined will enable you to create an ultra light BOB that you can easily carry, leaving you fast and agile for emergencies in your travels. More On Precious Metals, The Iranian Nuclear Situation, The Iranian Oil Bourse, and the New Silver ETF »
Friday January 27 2006 Product Review: Safecastle's New Compact "ScramKit"
A SurvivalBlog reader in Montana recommended that I take a look at the new compact "ScramKits" being offered by Safecastle. I must say that I'm impressed. They pack a lot of survival gear into a very small space. Their "Responder Personal" kit is in effect a miniature "Get Out of Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) kit or "bug out bag" (BOB) that you should keep in your car's glove box or center console box at all times. This kit fits in its own heavy duty belt pouch (available in three different colors) with ALICE/MOLLE attachments I think that the ScramKit makes the ideal "core" of a more comprehensive G.O.O.D. kit. Add a tube tent and/or a couple of heavy duty space blankets and you have shelter for longer duration. Add a canteen and a day pack full of MREs, retort packaged, and/or freeze dried food to that, and you've got sustenance for a week. Add a whompin' big sheath knife, and... Here is what the kit contains: * Maxpedition™ M5 waistbag in your choice of black, green, or khaki (as available) * Personal-size first aid kit (in separately-removable bag) * Pocket Survival Pack™ (in waterproof bag), from Adventure Medical Kits, which contains a treasure trove of goodies: o Rescue Howler™ whistleo Emergency signal mirror o Fluid-filled magnetic compasso Fire starter kit o Duct tape (2" x 26")o Scalpel blade o Stainless steel utility wire (6 feet long)o Nylon threado Nylon braided "paracord"o Fishing gear: hooks, sinkers, swivel, nylon line o Heavy-duty aluminum foil (1 sq. yard)o Large swing needle & safety pins o Waterproof paper and pencil * Tool Logic SL3™ folding knife with integral whistle and fire starter rod* Tool Logic Ice Card II™ credit-card multi tool system* Tool Logic T1 Tech Light™ LED clip-on flashlight * Emegency mylar "space" blanket * 2 earloop face masks (surgical grade) in separate ziplock bags * 2 pairs of nitrile exam gloves (non-sterile) paired up into separate ziplock bags * GP4L digital shortwave radio with built-in regulated LED flashlight (includes earbuds) in a crush-resistant plastic case * 16-foot windup antenna for the GP4L radio. The Responder Personal kit provides the following capabilities: * Basic first aid* Basic respiratory protection (biological) * Moderate emergency response* Basic lighting (redundant) * Basic fire starting (redundant)* Basic tooling & gear repair * Moderate communications (reception only) Visits Since 8/2005: (+/- 82,100 Unique Visits Per Week.)124 Million+ Hits Since 8/2005
Search Posts on SurvivalBlog: -end of 28outdo.txt 6-08 best-of for print?--start of 28good.a.b.c.txt:
may 2008: propane,gasoline,kerosene,disel.Besides the above "four-horsemen" of liquid fuels, we keep some additional fuels available. There is a supply of liquid paraffin for odorless burning in the oil lamps. Any oil lamp we keep filled with fuel for immediate access has liquid paraffin in it since it doesn't vaporize and "disappear" leaving wick-killing varnish like kerosene does. There is also some mineral spirits for the Prize stove (mineral spirits was the original fuel for oil lamps and stoves prior to the "invention" of kerosene). Additionally, we keep some naphtha (white gas/Coleman fuel) despite the fact that all of our gas appliances/lanterns are "dual fuel". I do this because it provides for the b...what was that 6-08 trick of lighting a lamp and setting it in a damp? below ground...the flame drew-in moisture? and so never ran-out of feuel...the feul acted merely as a catalyst passage between moisture and flame...(example..a drop of water makes gas-stoves burn way-hotter...example2:a car that runs on water?..example3:i do have records of such observed...but not corect concepts listed here?) see also oil-drip-on-a-brick-method...keeps brick burning?---greed:The other startling thing you will notice when looking at the Lights photo montage is that even in the western states, Americans live in a highly urbanized society. Roughly 90% of the population is crammed into 5% of the land area, mostly within 50 miles of the coast. But there are large patches of the west where there are virtually no lights at all--particularly in the Great Basin region that extends from the back side of the Sierra Nevada mountains to Utah and Eastern Oregon. The average population density in this region is less than two people per square mile.---The other obvious risk mitigation is to construct a blast/fallout shelter with a forced-air HEPA filter. If your house already has a basement, and you a---Friday April 25 2008 Letter Re: Fuel Rationing as a Deciding Factor in Activating a Remote Retreat ---My comment on the college student who advises petroleum geologist as a post-TEOTWAWKI career and advises against anything to do with electricity. My advice would be the opposite. Anything to do with oil requires a huge infrastructure of refineries, financial institutions et cetera, while small hydro, wind and solar will still be going and still viable. The current p---I.T. security professional for over 15 years, and I can say firsthand that choosing anything to do with networks or better yet information assurance and security would be a very, very wise choice.
Demand for skilled, intelligent computer and network security professionals is at an all-time high, and is increasing steadily. Further, the quality of ---Again, as things get worse in our society, the demand for people who can help ensure business continuity (and business security) for a large corporation can make a very respectable salary. In my experience, companies like GE, Proctor&Gamble, Wal-Mart, pharmaceutical companies, et cetera will do everything they can to keep making money no matter what, even if it looks like the world is ending, and they will pay handsomely for people who can help them do it.(end the world)---Wednesday April 16 2008 The Precepts of My Survivalist Philosophy
In the past week I've had three newcomers to SurvivalBlog.com write and ask me to summarize my world view. One of them asked: "I could spend days looking through [the] archives of your [many months of] blog posts. But there are hundreds of them. Can you tell me where you stand, in just a page? What distinguishes the "Rawlesian" philosophy from other [schools of] survivalist thought?"
I'll likely add a few items to this list as time goes on, but here is a general summary of my precepts:
Modern Society is Increasingly Complex, Interdependent, and Fragile. With each passing year, technology progresses and chains of interdependency lengthen. In the past 30 years, chains of retail supply have grown longer and longer. The food on your supermarket shelf does not come from local farmers. It often comes from hundreds or even thousands of miles away. This has created an alarming vulnerability to disruption. Simultaneously, global population is still increasing in a near geometrical progression. At some point that must end, most likely with a sudden and sharp drop in population. The lynchpin is the grid. Without functioning power grids, modern industrial societies will collapse within weeks.
Civilization is Just a Thin Veneer. In the absence of law an order, men quickly revert to savagery. As was illustrated by the rioting and looting that accompanied disasters in the past three decades, the transition from tranquility to absolute barbarism can occur overnight. People expect tomorrow to be just like today, and they act accordingly. But then comes a unpredictable disaster that catches the vast majority unprepared. The average American family has four days worth of food on hand. When that food is gone, we'll soon see the thin veneer stripped away.
People Run in Herds and Packs, but Both Follow Natural Lines of Drift. Most people are sheep ("sheeple"). A few are wolves that prey on others. But just a few of us are more like sheepdogs--we think independently, and instead of predation, we are geared toward protecting and helping others. People naturally follow natural lines of drift--the path of least resistance. When the Schumer hits the fan, 99% of urbanites will try to leave the cities on freeways. The highways and freeways will soon resemble parking lots. This means that you need to be prepared to both get out of town ahead of the rush and to use lightly-traveled back roads. Plan, study and practice.
Lightly Populated Areas are Safer than High Density Areas. With a few exceptions, less population means fewer problems. WTSHTF, there will be a mass exodus from the cities. Think of it as an army that is spreading out across a battlefield: The wider that they are spread, the less effective that they are. The inverse square law hasn't been repealed.
Show Restraint, But Always Have Recourse to Lethal Force. My father often told me, "It is better to have a gun and not need it, than need a gun, and not have it." I urge readers to use less than lethal means when safe and practicable, but at times there is not a satisfactory substitute for well-aimed lead going down range at high velocity.
There is Strength in Numbers. Rugged individualism is all well and good, but it takes ore than one man to defend a retreat. Effective retreat defense necessitates having at least two families to provide 24/7 perimeter security. But of course every individual added means having another mouth to feed. Absent having an unlimited budget and an infinite larder, this necessitates striking a balance when deciding the size of a retreat group.
There are Moral Absolutes. The foundational morality of the civilized world is best summarized in the Ten Commandments. Moral relativism and secular humanism are slippery slopes. The terminal moraine at the base of these slopes is a rubble pile consisting of either despotism and pillage, or anarchy and the depths of depravity. I believe that it takes both faith and friends to survive perilous times. For more background on that, see my Prayer page.
Racism Ignores Reason. People should be judged as individuals. Anyone that make blanket statements about other races is ignorant that there are both good and bad individuals in all groups. I have accepted The Great Commission with sincerity."Go forth into all nations" means exactly that: all nations. OBTW, I feel grateful that SurvivalBlog is now read in more than 100 countries. I have been given a bully pulpit, and I intend to use it for good and edifying purposes.
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those only come with study, training, and practice. Any armchair survivalist can buy a set of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken for genuine skills and practicality.
Plentiful Water and Good Soil are Crucial. Modern mechanized farming, electrically pumped irrigation, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides can make deserts bloom. But when the grid goes down, deserts and marginal farmland will revert to their natural states. In my estimation, the most viable places to survive in the midst of a long term societal collapse will be those with reliable summer rains and rich topsoil.
Tangibles Trump Conceptuals. Modern fiat currencies are generally accepted, but have essentially no backing. Because they are largely a byproduct of interest bearing debt, modern currencies are destined to inflation. In the long run, inflation dooms fiat currencies to collapse. The majority of your assets should be invested in productive farm land and other tangibles such as useful hand tools. Only after you have your key logistics squared away, anything extra should be invested in silver and gold.
Governments Tend to Expand their Power to the Point that They Do Harm. In SurvivalBlog, I often warn of the insidious tyranny of the Nanny State. If the state where you live becomes oppressive, then don't hesitate to relocate. Vote with your feet!
There is Value in Redundancy. A common saying of my readers is: "Two is one, and one is none." You must be prepared to provide for your family in a protracted period of societal disruption. That means storing up all of the essential "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" in quantity. If commerce is disrupted by a disaster, at least in the short term you will only have your own logistics to fall back on. The more that you have stored, the more that you will have available for barter and charity.
A Deep Larder is Essential. Food storage is one of the key preparations that I recommend. Even if you have a fantastic self-sufficient garden and pasture ground, you must always have food storage that you can fall back on in the event that your crops fail due to drought, disease, or infestation.
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn't make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer. With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen. Get advanced medical training. Get the best firearms training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local affiliated ARRL club. Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected over a period of years.
Old Technologies are Appropriate Technologies. In the event of a societal collapse, 19th Century (or earlier) technologies such as a the blacksmith's forge, the treadle sewing machine, and the horse-drawn plow will be far easier to re-construct than modern technologies.
Charity is a Moral Imperative. As a Christian, I feel morally obligated to assist others that are less fortunate. Following the Old Testament laws of Tzedakah (charity and tithing), I believe that my responsibility begins with my immediate family and expands in successive rings to supporting my immediate neighborhood and church, to my community, and beyond, as resources allow. In short, my philosophy is to "give until it hurts" in times of disaster.
Buy Life Assurance, not Life Insurance. Self-sufficiency and self-reliance are many-faceted. You need to systematically provide for Water, Food, Shelter, Fuel, First Aid, Commo, and, if need be, the tools to enforce Rule 308. Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages, most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and allow you to regularly tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of timing a "Get Out of Dodge" trip at the11th hour. If circumstances dictate that you can't live at your retreat year round, then at least have a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable. Exploit Force Multipliers. Night vision gear, intrusion detection sensors, and radio communications equipment are key force multipliers. Because these use high technology they cannot be depended upon in a long term collapse, but in the short term, they can provide a big advantage. Some low technologies like barbed wire and defensive road cables also provide advantages and can last for several decades. Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of you have a millionaire's budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself, and be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure will be you.and your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight. Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself. Choose Your Friends Wisely. Associate yourself with skilled doers, not "talkers." Seek out people that share your outlook and morality. Living in close confines with other families is sure to cause friction but that will be minimized if you share a common religion and norms of behavior.You can't learn every skill yourself. Assemble a team that includes members with medical knowledge, tactical skills, electronics experience, and traditional practical skills. There is No Substitute for Mass. Mass stops bullets. Mass stops gamma radiation. Mass stops (or at least slows down ) bad guys from entering a home and depriving its residents of life and property. Sandbags are cheap, so buy plenty of them. When planning your retreat house, think: medieval castle. (See the SurvivalBlog Archives for the many articles and letters on Retreat Architecture.) Always Have a Plan B and a Plan C. Regardless of your pet scenario and your personal grand plan of survival, you need to be flexible and adaptable. Situations and circumstances change. Always keep a G.O.O.D. kit handy, even if you are fortunate enough to live at your retreat year-round. Be Frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One of our family mottos is: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without." Some Things are Worth Fighting For. I encourage my readers to avoid trouble, most importantly via relocation to safe areas where trouble is unlikely to come to visit. But there may come an unavoidable day that you have to make a stand to defend your own family or your neighbors. Further, if you value your liberty, then be prepared to fight for it, both for yourself and for the sake of your progeny.---conditioning. You can provide charity and help to people you truly trust. I know that sounds selfish but it isn't. If you start to give food and other goods away [to strangers] you become a target and the thieves will come! If you decide to take them to a church then someone at that church is going to know you had it and again you will become a target. When people become desperate they will do anything. I hope folks realize that when these times come, a trip to town will be a heart attack event, because driving or walking down a road and not having proper recon is a nightmare waiting to happen. Another issue I would like to make is bugging out. If you think you are going to bug out after the Schumer hits the fan, then you are full of Schumer! When it hits, there is going to be widespread panic and martial law will follow. Therefore moving is going to be a major problem. I think if you are concerned enough now to have a retreat, then move to it now. I live in semi-rural North C---depleted, grocery stores barren, and then the nightmare of trying to avoid the military and police enforcing the martial law rules. You would be either stuck at home or out in the open with no where to go. I am totally serious, either go now or prepare to stay in place. Be physically and mentally tough. The hard times will be like nothing you can imagine unless you have been to a warring third world country. In those times everything will matter, you will see the strong survive and the rest dwindle away.---Boom. The Schumer hits the fan. You've got to get outta town. No problem, your gas tank is 1/2 full. You top it off with your large gas can, and put ---find out how difficult it is to hike in snow at altitude. How to dress in layers and learn to pace yourself to prevent perspiring, which can have detrimental effects if allowed to cool and you are not at your destination. On other occasions we have practiced camouflage and concealment, and built lean tos, using the features found around us, rocks branches, crevices and ravines, depending on weather outlook. While on hikes we observe and take note of natural features, wildlife, practice tracking, finding small game, finding water sources and identifying plants. On other occasions have hunted small game, which is in season. On a couple of occasions , we have even played an "adult "version of hide and seek Something , a couple of friends didn't entirely understand. The purpose was to learn to track and locate and observe others, while avoiding detection. It might come in handy.
If the hunting of small game was successful, we have cleaned and prepared the animal for consumption, when returning to camp. Rabbits, squirrels and birds all require different preparation, with some similarities.---Again, in my estimation, Oregon, Washington, and Colorado are all getting "Californicated". In the long term, the politics, taxes, zoning, and intrusiveness of government will soon approach levels resembling California. This cultural shift has become so obvious, that some folks in eastern Oregon and eastern Washington are now calling for secession or a re-alignment of state lines to create a new state.(Many of the people living east of the Cascades want no part of the liberal-do-gooder mentality that pervades the state capitols in Salem and Olympia.)---Also, consider that a California appellate court decision recently outlawed home schooling (to find them) except by credentialed teachers. Forget California, folks!---you say "grid down"?), etc. How many have actually considered (much less planned?) on using the following practical means of getting from Point A to B (whether a short or long distance).
1. Walking- hard work but very quiet and stealthy. Drawback- slow. 2. Bicycle. As long as you can keep your tires inflated, you can travel [at least] three times as fast than as on foot. Drawback- awkward to carry equipment unless you buy a trailer or stroller for the back. 3. Boat/canoe- Who is going to blockading the river or watching it? The river does the work for you if your are going down steam. The preferred method of ---11. Para-planes –fuel efficient, no license needed, can land in small areas. 12. Light aircraft- expensive but they are what they are. 13. Freight trains/barges/cargo ships- It seems no matter how much chaos a country descends into, occasionally a train, barge, cargo ship goes somewhere. Drawback-Can be Seasonal depending on low water levels, ice, snow.An undependable mode of transport to plan on using.
The reason you haven't considered these methods is because we as Americans are too d--n lazy and we carry around too much stuff. If your supplies are pre-positioned, you will need very little physically on you.
We as Americans are pre-conditioned to think first and foremost of the family vehicle almost exclusively. Unless you have a full tank of gas when the grid goes down or an EMP-resistant vehicle, you're screwed for any number of reasons. Your going to be thrust down a channelized highway of horrors (just ask anyone who has fled a hurricane inland). This highway can easily be barricaded by law enforcement, the military, gangs, or a group of local idiots. Accidents, traffic jams and lack of fuel will prevent you from getting out of the area at the speed which you anticipated.(get away from cars and people!)---In the first two weeks of a catastrophe, a miniscule number of people are going to be watching the rivers or lakes. They will be down looting televisions and liquor. The cops will be at roadblocks and chasing looters and arsonists. Your main antagonists are likely to be; federal employees manning the locks/dams, Conservation Officers (since they already have lots of boats, the military (probably a naval reserve unit) or in certain instances, the US Coast Guard. None of this group is usually looking for trouble on the water and Conservation Officers are notoriously cautious when working alone. It's too easy for them to just "disappear".
The larger the body of water (in square miles or distance from shore), the more distance or greater buffer you can put between you and anyone who may wish you harm. Night travel by water with no running lights and your motor off, will make you nearly invisible to 99% of the population. Watch out for logs, snags and sand bars and keep a watch out for other boats or you might well be sunk. Night vision might be handy if traveling at night. Many duck and goose hunters have metal supports for blind materials that could come in handy for camouflaging your boat if you choose to lay up during the day at some creek or island.
Your average inner city gang member doesn't know how to operate a boat and cant swim anyway, but don't count on it. Even criminals near a resort/sailing/boating area are sometimes familiar with boats. Ever heard of pirates and drug runners?
You could potentially carry much more equipment or personnel with you by means of a boat. Several Jon boats/canoes can be lashed together or roped in p---light, you might have trouble. Firstly, anyone padding along in a canoe makes a perfect target. He's not moving too fast, and has nowhere to hide. Since this will be the day after TEOTWAWKI many people might go into WDNNSB Mode or might think that they can shoot up whomever they please. Even if the savages don't kill you outright, they might shoot a few holes in your canoe for fun.---that the next major war that the US military would wage would not be like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged with traffic--the dreaded "Golden Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This will be the "come as you are" collapse.---Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as you are" premise. Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body weight reasonable? If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!--- In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do. So be sure to develop your "lists of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath of a societal collapse.(to many chores...good-old-days isgone ---If you want to try finding a retreat property via a foreclosure sale or auction, keep in mind the following dos and don'ts:
1.) Do your homework. Study the markets in your planned retreat locales, in detail. Study the microclimates and soils. Ask a real estate agent in your target area to provide you with a print-out of the actual closing prices (often called a "realized price sheet" or just a "closings sheet") for the county for the past year.
2.) Do pay attention to Multiple Listing Service (MLS) numbers. These numbers are typically assigned sequentially. The lower the number means the longer that a property has been on the market, and hence more likely you are to encounter a "motivated seller." (In today's depressed real estate market, you can now translate that as "desperate seller.")
3.) Don't get caught in the same trap as the previous owners. Don't buy beyond your means. If you can't make the payments, then you will lose the property, just like your predecessor. Don't just assume that you can find a job when you move to the hinterboonies. (Maybe that is just what the previous owner thought!) I recommend building up a home-based business before you move. If at all possible, borrow any money needed within your family, rather than from a bank. Alternatively, pool funds with like-minded preppers, and break up a large parcel. (In my experience, joint ownership of retreats is problematic. Just split it up into contiguous parcels with title held by individual families. Yes, surveying and subdividing is expensive and time consuming, but at least there are no hard feelings in the long run. I 've seen all sorts of grief, under other arrangements.)
4.) Don't compromise on location. As I mentioned in my book "Rawles on Retreats and Relocation", you should avoid both resort areas and channelized areas. Look for lightly populated dryland farming regions that are well-removed from major metropolitan areas, and that have good soil and plentiful water. (Even without buying my book, you can see a lot of my advice on retreat buying criteria and recommended locales at this web page.)
5.) Don't rush into buying the first likely candidate property. Watch and wait for a property that is both in a good retreat locale, and is a bargain.
6.) Don't hesitate to sell now, if you know for certain that you'll be moving within three years. If you need to sell your current property to provide cash for the eventual purchase of a retreat, then consider that the urgent item on your agenda. Prices are falling and buyers are scarce, so price your property accordingly, to be sure that it will sell quickly. Rent for a while. (Perhaps even "rent back" your house from the new owners.) Let the new owners worry about its declining value. After you've liquidated, you'll be sitting on cash in the midst of a declining market--a true "buyer's market". At that point you can afford to take your time, be choosy, and drive hard bargains.
7.) Don't be afraid to put in a lowball offer. If a property is "bank owned"--I love that euphemism--then they might be willing to sell it at a loss, just to get it off their books. Letter Re: Consumer Price Inflation is Upon Us |Main| Note from JWR:
Sunday February 10 2008 Impassable Freeways and Highways in an Eleventh Hour "Get Out of Dodge"
Jim,I found some depressing analysis on G.O.O.D. for those of us near US population centers: Read this PDF. you wont make-it-out-in-time! ie.good-dosnt-work.you got to live it now. not when its to late.---First Steps Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water. Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack as necessary. Get some food grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place. Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and ways to deal with them. What is your plan to deal with each? Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash. Practice. This doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water (in your backyard to start with). Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had to evacuate. How long did it take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out of town. Go hiking with your 72 hour kit. Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans. Books and other sources (in order of relevance and grouped)---the old-pen-methond(mighter than the sword?) of getting land:can recommend for a after a TSHTF situation in which the government has raised taxes so much that you are hinging on hanging on to your retreat? Any examples that worked back in the 1930s? I know you can relate due to your family's history that you have spoken of. What could we do as a plan to save our properties? Who can we expect to knock on the door, (i.e.- what entities)? Do you think there will be more motivation to seize productive ground? Do you think there will be more motivation to seize ground that has equity in it? Do you think there will be more of a chance of the Government or the Lender coming to knock on the door if you fall behind on your mortgage payments or property tax installment? Do you think legal representation will actually prove beneficial under such implied circumstances? Would you recommend being overly helpful to them at that hypothetical point, or would you recommend dragging your feet hoping that maybe they go on to a quicker seizure of someone else's property? These are questions that I hasten to type, but, maybe someone has thought of the aftermath and can offer some good sound advice since we will unlikely be able to communicate or have access to the Internet under such circumstances, nor afford an expensive Attorney. - The Wanderer
JWR Replies: I'd like to address this from two distinct angles: tax delinquency and mortgage delinquency. I'll address mortgage delinquency first, since it is far more likely.
Mortgage Delinquency: It may sound like an elementary precept, but when you buy any property using a mortgage, you don't really own that property until the mortgage is paid in full. It is the banker's house, not yours, until it is entirely paid off. In essence, in the eyes of the law the lender is still the owner. If you get delinquent in your payments for long enough (it varies depending on the state where you live), then you can count on foreclosure and if need be, being forcibly evicted. Currently the county sheriff's deputies in California's post-bubble Central Valley are presently busy with a lot of evictions.
Before talking about delinquency and foreclosure, I should mention one protective measure. State laws vary, but a Declaration of Homestead can help protect your house (and typically just the one acre that it sits on) from creditors in some circumstances. Be sure to research your state's declaration of homestead law thoroughly. In many states, a homestead exemption is automatic--you aren't required to file a homestead declaration in order to claim the homestead exempt status. Again, these laws can vary widely, so do your homework.
Here are some of my thoughts on the four most-often suggested solutions for preventing foreclosure:
Borrow money from friends or family members: This might be an option, but unless you know for certain that you can meet the new payment schedule, then don't do it. It will only cause familial strife that could last for decades.
Borrow from a different bank to get back up to date on past-due payments: This can be accomplished by means of a second mortgage, but I must warn readers that is having trouble paying a first mortgage, then taking out a second mortgage is most likely just a stop-gap measure. File in Bankruptcy Court (Chapter 7 or 13): Generally not recommended, since it could take decades to recover. You could conceivably keep a mortgaged house when going through either Chapter 7 or Chapter 13.
Sell the property: Most people consider this a last resort, but my personal opinion is that it should be the first option that you consider. Typically, if you find new financing then you will most likely fall behind again on your payments and the end result will be the same: foreclosure. So it is usually best to cut your losses and sell the house. If you are in a situation where you "upside down" in the mortgage (where the value of the property has declined to below what you still owe on the property), then it is probably best to just pack up and move, and mail you banker the keys. (This has recently been dubbed "jingle mail.") With continuing sharp declines in house prices expected in the next few years in the over-bought coastal markets, I predict that the "Midnight Flit" will become a commonplace occurrence. Tax Delinquency: This was the situation that my great grandparents were in, back in the 1930s. They owned a large sheep ranch in northern California. At the beginning of the Great Depression they were land rich but cash poor. By the end of the Depression, that had neither much money or land. By 1942, the county had taken most of the ranch for back taxes.
The only safe and sure prevention for such situations is to have cash in the bank, or highly liquid tangibles (such as precious metals). With cash in the bank you can sleep well, knowing that you'll always be able to pay your property taxes. The property tax rates vary tremendously from state to state. The tax rates tend to be the highest in the northeastern US, and lowest in the south and the west. Needless to say, I recommend relocation to states with low property tax rates.
If and when you can't pay your taxes, you can try some legal maneuvers, but once the deputies arrive, don't try anything melodramatic. They are just the instrument of the courts, and it is in the courts that you must find your remedy and recourse. When it comes to foreclosures, unless you live in a county with a particularly corrupt government, I don't thing that it will make much difference how much equity you hold, and or whether or not the land is productive. If you get in arrears on your taxes, they will be "equal opportunity destroyers." The tax sales may get delayed in some cases, but inevitably if you don't pay the taxes, then the land will be seized.
OBTW, speaking of forfeiture for back taxes, if you are looking for bargain retreat properties in rural regions, you can occasionally find small parcels that are available for just the price of catching up on their back taxes. (Again, state laws vary widely.) Typically these are undeveloped parcels that were bought decades before. The owners, often out of state, changed mailing addresses, and somewhere along the line--often because of a death in the family--the property was forgotten, the taxes lapsed, and with no mail forwarding address, the property was eventually seized by the county for back taxes. You can find some such properties through services like Foreclosure.com. But in some cases you have to visit the County Recorder/Assessor's Office to find out about such parcels. You should get to know the people at your Recorder's office anyway, so if nothing else this is a good excuse to go and visit. ---Government or Community Shelter: As a last resort, you may temporarily reside in a shelter. A church operated temporary disaster shelter is usually less restrictive than other types of shelters. However, before you go to the shelter it would probably be a good idea to rent a temporary storage facility---shelter location. Just remember that some shelters are easy to get into but almost impossible to get out of until the authorities are ready to release you. If you become a voluntary prisoner at one of these shelters you may discover that life in the shelter is unbearable and that you are not allowed to leave simply because you now realize you should have never entered the shelter. When you first enter the shelter, there is a strong likelihood that government shelter personnel will carefully search you and confiscate any weapons, knives, drugs including prescription medicines, tools, children---And finally, 9/11/2001 could easily have been a nuclear event instead of a [hijacked] airliner event. Those of us in the east are downwind of most [nuclear] targets in the US . The free online book "Nuclear War Survival Skills" is a must. Print it and read it. Know how and when to take shelter from fallout. You need not have a shelter in a basement. The interior of a high rise building offers excellent protection from low level radiation. But you should plan your actions in advance.---Saturday December 8 2007 Your Life in Your Pocket by John T.
A significant part of being prepared and being able to weather a crisis is having information. Remember, those in charge now will make it their first priority after TSHTF to return to the status quo. Banks and mortgage companies will do everything possible to continue banking and lending. Landlords will do whatever it takes to make sure they continue to collect rent from their tenants, and any police or military personnel you come into contact with will be very unhappy if you cannot prove who you are or otherwise deflect suspicion. You can call having critical information available during and after a crisis "life continuity." There are three aspects to it: collection, protection, and dispersion. The first step is collection. Just as with other aspects of your survival plan, you'll want to make a list of the information you want to collect and have available during and after a crisis. Such a list should include: - medical information and records for all family members - names, addresses, and contact numbers of relatives, doctors and insurance companies - copies of wills, living trusts, powers of attorney, and other legal documents - copies of insurance policies - copies of birth certificates, wedding licenses, children's school records, and college transcripts - copies of property ownership documents, such as mortgage agreements and property deeds - copies of driver licenses and passports - e-books or scanned pages from knowledge materials you've collected - as many family photos as you feel you need, but at a minimum make sure there is a clear "head shot" of everyone in your family that can be used by authorities if needed to conduct a search - video taped walk-throughs of your house and property showing major purchases and valuables and the condition of any buildings While some of the items above might seem like overkill, it is important to remember that you can never have enough supporting documentation if you ever need to prove your case or prove your identity. Imagine bugging out of your home and going to your retreat for three months, only to return to your home after the all clear to find it occupied by squatters. Will you be able to prove the house is yours? If your insurance company denies your claim, will you have the materials ready to counter their argument in your appeal? Once you've collected the documents and photos, the next step is protection. At a minimum, you'll want to have a fireproof box or safe to hold your documents. Even better, get a box or safe that is waterproof as well. For example, Sentry makes a small waterproof and fireproof lockbox for well under $100. You might even be able to pick one up for much less at a garage sale or flea market. Put your safe in an obscure location in your home, and use any supplied mounting hardware to mount the safe to the floor or wall to prevent thieves from simply lifting it up and walking away with it. Avoid any safe or lockbox that requires power to operate, such as batteries or a wall plug. This includes the fancy safes with biometric access mechanisms. You don't need Fort Knox; you just need to be reasonably protected. If you can't afford a lockbox or safe, at least put your document stash into a large Ziploc bag and put it somewhere safe. You could put it into a locking file cabinet or even put it into a five-gallon pail and bury it.
Dispersion is another key element to protecting your information stash. Make copies of everything and mail a set to your lawyer and a couple sets to trusted family members. Mailing a set to family outside of your region is an especially good idea. For example, if you live in the Midwest, you would want to send a copy to someone on the east coast or perhaps out west. Use a service with a tracking number that requires a signature so that you can be sure the documents arrive at their location. Even better is to scan everything into an electronic format. PDF is best, as it can be read on just about any computer. Take the electronic copies and write them to a CD or DVD, also known as "burning to disk" since the CD/DVD drive's laser cctually burns information into the disk. CD and DVD writers are very cheap nowadays, on the order of $20-$30 for a brand new unit and a few dollars for the disk media. Keep a couple copies along with your paper (hard) copies, and send out a DVD to your family members instead of a large pack of documents.
Some people also keep electronic copies of their important documents on USB keys. USB keys are also known as "thumb drives" because of their size. Any computer with a USB port can access a USB key as if it was a hard drive. Keep in mind, though, that a USB key is electronic and will be susceptible to anything that would damage electronics such as a magnetic field. While it might not seem like a good idea to keep important info on something that could end up damaged, the point is to analyze the trade-off between convenience and accessibility without hurting reliability. If you have hard copies of everything, then using something as convenient as a USB key might be an advantage. For example, you could hook the USB key to your belt and walk into a disaster relief shelter to use the computer there instead of walking around with a big pack of important papers.
If you choose to make electronic copies of your information, you will want to encrypt everything and make sure to use innocent-sounding labels. Imagine sending a DVD labeled "Our Family's Important Information" to someone on the other side of the country. If that DVD were to fall into the wrong hands, those people would have everything they needed to steal your identity. Instead, label the CD or DVD something like "Our Family Vacation 2006" where "2006" is the year that the DVD was made. That way you will know which is the most recent.
Encrypting your information sounds difficult, but it is actually pretty easy. The only downside is that you will need a computer to decrypt the information once it is encrypted. There are numerous free and open encryption programs available at no charge. My favorite is called TrueCrypt. How it works is beyond the scope of this article, but it is safe to say that if you encrypt your information with TrueCrypt, it would take all the computers in the world several hundreds of years to crack it. TrueCrypt runs on Windows computers only, but similar applications are available for Mac OS X and Linux. If you are technically savvy and really want to take your USB key to the next level, you can install a complete operating system onto the USB key itself. An example would be PenDrive Linux or Damn Small Linux. Damn Small Linux is only 50 MB in size! With the OS right on your USB key, you could keep all your information encrypted and never have to worry about what type of computer you would need to decrypt and view your information.
Many people focus on the tangible aspects of being prepared. Beans, bandages and bullets are important, but so are intangibles like information. With a small amount of effort and little to no expenses, you can make sure all the information your family might need to survive, regroup, and move on is protected and in an easily-accessible and safe location. Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Survivalist Matchmaking Services
Thursday December 6 2007 Letter Re: Preparedness for Less Than a Worst Case, From an Eastern Urbanite's Perspective ---I would argue that people in third world countries are accustomed to: currency devaluation, military controls, rioting in the streets, high crime rates, food shortages, breakdown of infrastructure [such as extended power failures], et cetera.
So for the average Third World resident these things are not TEOTWAWKI. Now consider the suburbanite in the US of A:, "John Smith": John is definitely not used to seeing the value of his money vanish before his own eyes. John Smith is not used to getting mugged every day on his way home. John Smith is not used to seeing the military on his street. John Smith is not used to rioting in his city. John Smith is not used to two or three days of brown-outs or black-outs.
John Smith gets angry and extremely frustrated when someone cuts him off in traffic. John's wife Sally is irate when she loses satellite reception during Oprah and she misses the required reading section. John and Sally's kids are even worse.
And that's suburban folks, what most of us would call "middle class." We won't even bother to talk about some of the other's actions, just find the archives of Hurricane Katrina and the New Orleans Superdome and you'll figure that out. [JWR Adds: Lest anyone consider this a quasi-racist statement from R.H., bear in mind that some of the looters caught on film in New Orleans were white and hispanic. The tendency toward looting and other acts of lawlessness during disasters is tied to economics and whether or not children have a law-abiding, morally-grounded upbringing, not race.]---Media: Bookmark your favorite conservative radio shows' web sites! Because you are not going to hear them on the airwaves around here. To give you an idea which way the wet side media leans: A cat getting shot with a BB gun will be reported with more gravity and sympathy than the beating death of a child or the gang rape of a young woman. 'Nuff said?
Culture? - We got tons of it! As long as it's oh-so properly PC.
Crime: - Can we say "methamphetamine?" Keep an eye on your back 40. It may sprout a meth lab. (So might the neighbor's rental property.) - High rates of burglary and car theft - Robberies and home invasions up - I.D. theft on the rise
Hazards - The Economic Bubble os due to burst. We've always had a boom and bust economy here, and it's been riding high for too long.
- Earthquake o We're overdue for "The Big One." This is especially true for the Cascadia Subduction Zone and the Seattle fault complex.---I'd be very interested in your thoughts about what urbanites should be doing to prepare for bad times, given the restrictions of space, limited knowledge of/interest in outdoorsman skills, "Yuppie" lifestyle constraints, etc. Thanks. - D.C.
JWR Replies: For someone that lives on Manhattan Island, you are definitely quite well-prepared!
Some preparedness upgrades that I'd recommend for you:
1.) Pre-positioning some supplies stored with friends or relatives, or perhaps in a commercial storage space, at least 150 miles out of the city, on your intended "Get Out of Dodge" route. (For that dreaded "worst case.")
2.) Adding a rifle to your firearms battery. With New York City's semi-auto and magazine restrictions, you might consider a .308 Bolt action with either a small detachable magazine, or perhaps a non-detachable magazine. A Steyr Scout would be a good choice. Some semi-auto rifles that might be approved include top-loading M1 Garands and FN49s. (No doubt easier if you are a member of a CMP-associated shooting club.) If you can't get permit approval for any modern rifles, then there is a handy exemption for long guns "manufactured prior to 1894 and replicas which are not designed to fire fixed ammunition, or for which fixed ammunition is not commercially available." You might consider a pre-1894 production Winchester Model 1876 or 1886 in an obsolete caliber such as .40-60 or .45-90. (See my FAQ on pre-1899 cartridge guns for details. Be sure to select rifles with excellent bores and nice mechanical condition.
3.) A small photovoltaic panel for recharging your flashlights, radios, and night vision gear batteries.(Along with a 300+ Amp Hour 12 VDC "Jump Pack" (such as JCWhitney.com's item # ZX265545) and 12 VDC "DC to DC" battery charging trays and the various requisite cords.)
4.) A supply of antibiotics.
5.) Consult your local fire code, and store the maximum legally-allowable quantity of extra gasoline, assuming you have a safe place to store it. (I realize that most Manhattanites have their cars stored commercially with no additional storage space, and it can be a 20 minute car-juggling exercise j--- end of 28gooda.txt ----------- ----start of 28goodb.txt (best notes for print?):---Friday November 30 2007 The Pre-Test and the Ultimate Test
There may come a day when you have to put all of your training and preparations to use. That will be ultimate test of whether or not you have a true survival mindset. Do you think that you are ready for WTSHTF, physically and mentally? Assuming that you live in the suburbs, try a weekend "grid down" test with your family. This will test both your mental preparedness and how well you have prepared for the basics. Here is how it is done: Some Friday evening, unannounced, turn off your main circuit breaker and shut the valves the gas main and the water main. Leave them off until Monday morning. You might be surprised how the weekend goes. One thing that I can guarantee you: Some of the most accurate lists of logistics that you will ever compose are those written by candlelight.---JWR Replies: In the event of a national banking crisis and bank "holiday", I predict that all bank doors will be closed and that every form of electronic money will be inoperative (ATMs, debit cards, credit cards, et cetera.) You might be able to write checks at some local businesses, but don't depend on being able to do so. There is even a smaller chance that some "Mom & Pop" stores will manually run a credit card slip for later processing, but that would be horribly naive of them. Nearly all merchants now use "Point of Purchase" (POP) electronic processing via a phone line to confirm credit card purchases, but the POP systems will surely be "down.")
If you can afford to, I recommend that you keep at least $1,000 in greenbacks on hand at all times. ---Thursday November 15 2007 Letter Re: The Importance of Making Your BOV Less Visible(car)---winter:Fire starting kit with plenty of tinder.---JWR Replies: As a Baptist, I don't personally stock any liquor for barter. But many folks see the wisdom of doing so. OBTW, if you do buy any liquor, one variety stock up on is the 190 Proof variety of Everclear grain alcohol, which also has medicinal purposes (for sterilizing instruments and for making tinctures) and can be used as lamp fuel.---citys-on-fire.sf-fires:1) Main travel ways, arterials and so on are clogged. Fire and emergency vehicles going in, folks evacuating out. As a kid in San Diego, I watched some friends get seriously burned in their vehicle when they were trapped in a blow over, caused by them staying too late. Burning to near death in their car was horrific enough. Over 250,000 people ordered to evacuate. San Diego has an excellent highway system but when you have that many moving . . . 2) Many folks have been reluctant to leave. Family has stated that they are aware that looters and burglars have worked some mandatory evacuated neighborhoods to their benefit. If your house doesn't burn, it could get robbed. 3) What people are packing for evacuation in their vehicle is insane. Everything but what they really need (documents, photos, family bible, etc.). ---Here in the northern tier of the country winter travel must be considered a possibility, being an unprepared refugee in the middle of a sub-zero cold snap would not be pleasant. Being prepared means layered winter clothing, winter footwear, winter camping equipment and plenty of white gas or unleaded gasoline stove fuel to melt snow or boil water. Expect to carry a 60 to 80 pound pack. My plan includes spending a winter (December thru March) away from my base of operations. A bug-out route /cache plan may allow you to take control of your situation and reduce your chances of becoming a refugee, internee or casualty in a desperate situation. Seeking the Lord God Almighty's protection, salvation and will for your life through prayer in Jesus' name will allow Him to take control of your situation whatever the circumstances are!!! - N.H.---written previously in SurvivalBlog, I strongly prefer the strategy of fixed retreats over nomadic approaches to survivalism. But I have never ruled out mobility as a tactic. Nor have I ever suggested holding one's ground at all costs. There must always be a "Plan B". If that necessitates "bugging out" and abandoning one's land, livelihood, and a portion of one's logistics, then so be it. Plan accordingly.--- unless blessed with amazing success at gardening, you soon will be reduced to the level of refugee. And unless you have secreted caches of fuel and have considerable good fortune to be able to reach them as needed, you will also soon be on foot. If the history of the 20th Century taught us anything, it is that the least desirable category for a citizen in turbulent times is refugee.
Mobility has it uses, but mobility for the sake of mobility has so many drawbacks that is borders on foolishness. In the context of a full scale economic collapse with widespread lawlessness, mobility means the opportunity to run into one ambush after another. It is far better to have a well-stocked and self-sufficient retreat with the option of mobility,---the city. The only routes out of the city are backed up enough during the day, let alone rush hour, and let's not even think about a panicked evacuation. My suggestion is living off the beaten path, but still close enough to Philly to have a reasonable commute. To anyone interested living in the Philadelphia region, Oxford would be a wonderful location. Your average drive time into the city is about an hour, and you have direct access to Route 1.
The best thing about Oxford [Pennsylvania] however, is that you're in Amish country. If TEOTWAWKI truly kicks into high gear, bartering and trading with your neighbors shouldn't be any problem whatsoever. Most of them currently use the barter system. During the winter months, my brother in law plows their driveways, and they let us hunt on their land. That's just one small example.---Monday October 1 2007 Letter Re: A Security Contractor's Convoy Experience in Iraq ---life in your-town.payd-mercinaries work for their 'client'...so you live it now and it wont be a problem when everyone else is shooting farmers:::1.create a crisis they wont blame on you 2.make victims come to you for secuity Yesterday a friend of mine who runs a small security company here in Iraq emailed me. He is standing up a protection detail and wanted my opinion on tactics and equipment running the roads of Iraq; Tactics, SOPs, hard car or soft? I have been giving it some thought and here is where I am at.
I am willing to speculate I'm as well traveled in Iraq as anyone I've met. I've been just about everywhere between Kuwait and Iran, all points in between. And I've traveled every way possible. I've gone in military convoy up armored hummers at 40 MPH. I've run the Fallujah Baghdad gauntlet in a 15 truck convoy, thin skinned white F350s. I've rolled all over in blacked out Pajeros in local dress. Diplomatic convoys with armored suburbans and helo cover. I've done the whole hide the guns and smile a lot all the way to showing just about everyone the front sight post. I've done 140 KPH up MSR Tampa and weaved through Sadr city at a near standstill. I, like nearly everyone have made mistakes and been lucky to be here writing this. I think the most important and neglected aspect of survival in theatre is training. Every freaking day your crew should practice "actions on" - At least do it on a dry erase board. Actions upon anything and everything. What usually happens is we start going through the "what ifs" and all the sudden every guy in the crew has a different idea of what should happen. After all we come from many different backgrounds. After about 30 minutes of that we all end up scratching our head debating which idea is best and say "let's get chow." Decide on some fundamental concepts. And stick to them, but of course always remembering that the plan is just something to deviate from anyway. As long as we all know the end goal and work toward it. i.e. If the vehicle is stalled in the ambush, driver flicks it in neutral so the rear car can ram us out and we prepare to un-ass the vehicle on the opposite side of the contact. So rehearse and practice - Which is easy to say because I am the first to admit that a knock on my hooch at 7AM with, "Hey, man, let's rehearse this" makes me grumble. I'm sure we can all agree that debating your actions on is best done at the hootch rather than on the side of a road in Tikrit while your car is being remodeled by a PKM. PMCS your vehicles all the time. Being broke down in Iraq is like a scene on a bad movie. Been there done that. Check tires, oil, fluid, etc... And don't overdrive your car. My friend VC managed to put a Pajero upside down and backwards on Tampa once because we pushed the cars past their controllability. Every IC you meet will tell you he is a great driver. Just because you drive fast and haven't hit anything yet doesn't mean you're a good tactical driver. Go to BSR or some other school. And if you haven't let the guy who has drive. Conduct driver training. Get the best guy to teach everyone else. OJT. Practice changing tires. There are a couple guys reading this email right now who know exactly what I am talking about. Realizing you've packed 300 pounds of gear on top the spare while on the side of a road in Ramadi is a self loathing I'd like not replicate. Make sure you have a tow strap in every vehicle. Loop it through the rear bumper so it's already attached. that way you swing in front of the busted car and they hook up. Gone in 60 seconds or vice versa... Get a good jack, it's worth the money. Make sure everyone knows where all the tow, change, repair gear is in every vehicle. In the glove box keep your stay behinds. A frag, Smoke, CN. The rule is. Never f*ck with the pin unless you have the grenade outside of the window. Hit a bump and it drops on the roadside. Minimal drama. Inside the car? Party foul. Use CN and Smoke. If you're caught in traffic and you have a bad feeling about a car behind you, toss the smoke. Most motorists will stop or at least give you a lot of space. It works and it's harmless. Can use more sparingly and never while in tight traffic. Watching that cloud blow towards your car faster than you can drive is not fun. The CN is rough stuff and I only would use it on those rare situations where it just has to be done. And the frag? Well we all know when those need to be used. Put a rubber band on your sling so it doesn't get caught on stuff while getting out of the car. Always do a proper route plan. Common sense here. And another note, we are always trying to be sneakier and cleverer than everyone else. Avoiding MSR's and roads frequented by convoys you know the deal. Well before taking a road you see on a map that isn't used by the Army. Go see the G2, ask them why. It may be for good reason. Think about fuel consumption. Plan your stops for fuel and food. Always carry a gas can, just in case. Always have spare batteries for the GPS, Always have a map and compass just like when we were E1's. Do a map study; make sure everyone in the crew knows the route plan. Carry as big a gun as you can. Keep it clean. Keep it hot. Carry lots of ammo. On April 4th I went through 14 mags and never would have thought that a possibility before then. Carry more ammo, stage spare mags everywhere. Like the freakin Easter bunny. I will never go without wearing a helmet again. If there is a Kevlar helmet, it's going on my head. A dude standing right next to all of us on the roof was dropped from a head shot. Spend the money get a good MICH or the like. The more comfortable and low profile the more likely it is you'll wear it. Wear a helmet. Watching Alcon get blasted in the noggin was a SOP changing experience for all of us here. Wear your armor. Period. If you sleep in a trailer or hootch, know where the nearest bunker is. Trying to find it at 4 AM while scared sh*tless isn't the answer. And yes everyone runs for the bunker. The Delta dude who is always giving the evil eye will probably be the first one there followed immediately after by a SEAL in flip-flops. 120mm mortars make us all very humble. Shoot a lot. Keep training. If your company won't get more ammo, make them dry fire. Practice mag changes. Focus on cheek weld and front site. The basics win every time. The three guys shot on the roof here were all either changing mags while standing or weren't moving to different firing positions frequently - all were regular military and not contractors. They were doing standard Army range sh*t. And got dropped for it... You remember when Sam Elliot said "If I need one there will be plenty laying around" in the film We Were Soldiers Once, in regards to the rifles? He was right. If you've seen those pictures of us on the net Chip was on a SAW and I had a M203. There were weapons strewn about the roof by wounded and those who elected to not play on the two way range. No sh*t. By the end of week two here we all had our choice in weapons. No sh*t. We fired RPK, AK47, PKM, MK19, M249, M203, M4, Dragunov, and M60 at bad guys between the eight of us... That was unreal. This brings me onto this - Train on all weapons. If you don't have access at least read the FM or TM on them. You never know when you're out of 5.56 and someone will hand you a PKM. Get familiar with them. Practice shooting out to 800 meters. I know, nearly every fight is within 150 [meters] but we were trying to bang a mortar crew that was pounding us at 800 meters. And it happened more than once. In terms of shooting. Practice as you did on active duty. Always scrounge ammo. I will ALWAYS take a hard car over a soft. Its just common sense at this point. If I have a soft car I will sandbag the floors and jam steel and spare plates everywhere I can. Bolt on armor is sh*t, but better than nothing. Remove the Lexan windows from the gun trucks. Just like in the old days nothing breaks contact quite like returning accurate, violent fire. The rear vehicle is always most likely to be hit. Put your best shooters in there, biggest guns.
The Golden CONEX box. It ain't coming dude. If I had a nickel for every time I have been told "Oh yeah man, we ordered ten of those and they should be here in three days" Or my favorite "don't worry, it will meet you in country." If you don't have good guns, ammo, armor, or comms, just say no like Nancy Reagan used to say. Some companies are total pieces of sh*t and will leave you in Iraq with a busted ass stolen AK and two mags. Some will do you better than a tier one unit. Personally, I just want the above mentioned items and the rest to go to my bank account. If I want a three hundred dollar backpack Ill buy it. Bottom line. Remember what gear is critical. Demand it be the best and take proper care of it. Medical equipment. It's expensive. It has saved lives. The company I currently work for spent a gazillion dollars outfitting each crew with great mad gear. I'm sure the bill was hard to swallow. I sh*t you not it saved three people's lives, all had life threatening injuries. The med kits and our 18Ds saved them. The Army had a few bandages and an IV. That was it. You know who you are, thank you for spending the money... Do remedial med[ical] training. Can't say anymore on that issue. Do it. Wherever you go carry lots of booze. It's the most valuable item you can have. If I wrote a list of things I have managed to swindle with a bottle of Jack [Daniels whiskey] placed in an E8's hands you would cr*p you're pants. Don't get drunk and stupid. Be drunk or stupid but never both at once. Never let the client convince you "it's safe, I do this all the time." If it's stupid it's stupid. On the same note. Remember if we hamper our client's ability to do their job too much. Our company can get sh*tcanned. It's a fine line. Yeah, your client thinks it's cute to drive to some Hadji's house at midnight for tea, sometimes you just have to do it. Learn to deal with all the clients. Some truly think that all Iraqis are great people and that the US Army is the enemy. Some will encourage you to shoot bicyclists who hog the road. I've seen both sides. Keep their agenda and egos in mind. Don't make your own life miserable. Aimpoints are great. The Eotech is okay. TA31 ACOG is the best by far. The Aimpoint battery lasts six months. The Eotech is a little too bright for my taste. Remember that the dot is like 3 MOA in size so they aren't any good past 300 or 400. The ACOG is the heat. Buy short M4s. They will save you're ass. I carry a 18" upper on me with glass so when we reach our destination I flick it on the lower receiver and I now have a decent long gun. It's like having two guns to choose from. If you're doing Green Zone PSD a mag or two may do you but if you're in the party zone? Twelve. Speaking of which, weapon, twelve mags, pistol, three mags, Med kit, GPS, map and compass, radio, spare battery, $500 [in] US dollars, MRE , water bottle, NVG, armor. It's a lot. It's hot but f**k it, if its too heavy get membership at the gym. This job isn't for everybody. In your vehicle. Put a US flag on the visor so nobody can see it until you approach a checkpoint, then flip it down. On the passenger side do the same with a VS17 panel. G.I. Joe will shoot your a** just as soon as a Hadji will. Carry MREs and water in your car. NEVER throw food or candy to kids. there are many reasons why. But at the least it encourages kids to jump in front of cars, smashing a kid would ruin your trip here. If you find yourself trusting the locals its time to take a vacation. Walk the fine line. Don't be too conservative and don't get blown up. Listen to your intuition. It has saved a guy who is on this mailing list and not listening to it killed a friend a month ago. Once you make contact ... Finish it. If you shot a guy and he is limping to cover he can still get there and return fire. Just finish everything you start. A car door is not cover. In fact a car is not cover. Cement is. While doing the work-up for my last deployment we did live fire IADS and movement from vehicles. It was the best training I have done and the most useful. On that note we did many Simunition [practice] runs with vehicle ambush scenarios. We found that without a doubt the single most important factor in surviving is getting out and away from the car. Getting behind it as though it was a concrete barrier and playing HEAT will get you killed. Don't work for a company that doesn't vet its ICs. Check their creds, call the references, and put them through a ten day selection course. Just because a guy was a SEAL in Vietnam doesn't mean he maintained his skills. On that note the best shooter in my training class was Vietnam SEAL. Some of the best guys were 22 year old Rangers and the worst 38 year old SEALs. My point it's the individual that counts. But we don't have time or money to bring a regular Army kid up to speed. You have to have the fundamental skill sets. We can't introduce you to live fire Australian peels. We should just review and coordinate verbal commands and simple sh*t. Just because somebody is a good dude isn't good enough. If he can't shoot, think, and move - leave him home. Big boy rules. If a guy doesn't work out in your crew but has talent and skill send him elsewhere, don't sh*tcan him. Personalities clash. Especially when you're living together 24/7 for six months. Eating every meal together all that. If I hear the same stupid story from a guy forty times? That's cool. It's the 41st that's gonna be drama. You guys know what I'm talking about. The contractor community is a sewing circle for men. Remember the Dyncorp guy who shot the principal in Baghdad last winter? The story in its most recent telling over cheap Turkish beer involved a diplomatic cover up, a magazine change, and several deaths. Throwing a flash-bang into the team leader's hootch at 3AM while drunk is not a good practical joke. Remember how much money you're making. Nobody wants to clean the sh*tter on a Wednesday morning but keep in mind you're the highest paid janitor in the world that day. Keep a sense of humor. Keep funny people around, they make sh*tty situations tolerable and are like Prozac when you need it. Have thick skin. Your friends will ask for naked pictures of your wife on deployment and yes they may take them to the bathroom with them. Take criticism. If you suck at something ask for training. Always remember that you were once a young dumb*ss E1. You made $450 a month and weren't allowed to fart without a permission chit ran up and down the chain of command. Keep this in mind when you're bitching because you're only making $17,000 a month when guys at the other company are getting $17,500. And when the bosses back in the states email you to have a clean shave? Do it. you never know when you're going to be on some stupid newspaper. The soldiers around us are deployed for a year sometimes more. They make a fraction of the pay. And are ordered to do stupid, dangerous sh*t everyday. Keep that in mind when you are upset that instead of 60 days you're extended to 68. And keep that in mind when dealing with soldiers. Treat them well, nobody else does. Yes, we all work for ourselves at the end of the day. At the same end, never f**k over your company or teammates who have to stay behind and clean up your mess. Business OPSEC is one thing but always share your info on intel and tactics. We are all Americans and most of us will work together one time or another. Some of the "business secret" stuff is corny. If you hit an IED on ASR Jackson yesterday, e-mail your colleagues to stay away. That's it off the top of my head. Stay Safe, - Ben---gas-prices meen the inevitable end of social-soicty in steps?survival and preparedness activities, I say, do not be overwhelmed by the enormity of that which you feel you need to do to be get yourself reasonably "prepared" or anywhere near as prepared as others that have been preparing for a long time. Make the decision to prepare for survival and methodically acquire the basic food, water and equipment you will need to handle any emergency situation, short or long-term.---At least our forefathers were insightful when they insisted that our (appropriately silver and gold-backed) monetary instruments be inscribed with the dictum, "In God We Trust". My one suggestion would be to go back to ---continued and is ongoing. Some of the best and brightest are wisely still bailing out of California in considerable numbers. OBTW, the latest outrage I heard was that the City of San Francisco has instituted socialist universal health care for every resident of the city, all to be funded magically by tax dollars. Papa Fidel would be proud of his understudies. The Liberal Nanny Staters that rule California have totally lost touch with reality.-----
I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any wild or domestic animal) from the field to the table. I bring with me a full set of cutlery tools, including saws,steels and several knives. I also carry a AR-15 w/8-20 round, loaded mags. A Glock 19 w/mags, and a Rem 870 tactically modified. I have a full set of ultralight camping gear including, freeze dried food,tent, sleeping bag,etc. My loyalties are to God, Country, and my brothers at arms.
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repaired furniture a little basic farm work(irrigation, pick rock) assembled some field sprayers signalman roofing painting inventory control/purchasing drafting some hunting a lot of fishing a lot of target shooting cashier(a lot) lube and oil cars janitor built 40 wood tables for an assembly line sorted recycled paper stock shelves gas station attendant a little gardening(corn,peas,onions) unarmed watch ----JWR Replies: I recommend that you form a survival retreat group. That is exactly what I did 25 years ago, when I was an Army ROTC cadet. Stock your retreat as best as you can, given your limited budget. Prioritize your purchasing. Water purification and food storage should be at the top of your list. Set group standards for communications gear and guns. For short range tactical coordination, I recommend the modestly priced MURS transceivers, since they use a little-used band. This is particularly important in the signal-dense northeastern United States, where using CB frequencies would be almost impossible WTSHTF. For advice on firearms selection, see my Survival Guns web page, and my novel "Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse".
Be very selective about who you bring into your group. Unlike building a group based on an extended family, you can be choosy. Be dispassionate in choosing new group members. Evaluate each candidate on their stability, motivation, and their mix of skills. Friendship is a great thing, but the guy or gal who is presently your dormitory buddy may not be your best choice for a survival group member. Look at their weight, health, and physical fitness. Consider their religious background. Are they moral and trustworthy? Are they intelligent and adaptable? Do they have valuable skills? Are they hard working or will they just be "talkers" or "strap hangers"? Avoid people with extremist views or anyone that suggests making any preparations that are illegal. Ask yourself the key question: Am I willing to trust my life to this individual? If any candidates don't pass muster, then keep looking.
In the long term, try to develop a retreat that is in a less densely populated region. When you graduate, direct your job search--assuming that you will be a reserve officer--to a region that is suitable for self-sufficient retreats. (For details, see my Retreat Areas web page and my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.) Odds are the group that you form in college will have a considerably different composition five or six years from now, once your friends change locales to pursue careers. In fact, depending on where you end up, you may be teamed with an entirely different group of people.
If you are destined to go on active duty, then tailor your "dream sheet" of preferred duty assignments (after OBC) to posts that are in the western U.S. (You didn't mention if you had been branch selected yet. That could make a big difference in the locale of your eventual posting.) I suggest that you consider posts like Umatilla Army Depot, Fort Carson, Rocky Mountain Arsenal, Tooele Army Depot, Dugway Proving Ground, Fort Lewis (possibly permanent party at Yakima Training Center), Fort Greely, Fort Wainwright, or perhaps Sierra Army Depot. Army PERSCOM branch managers are often willing to accommodate requests from junior officers that state a preference for posts that their peers would consider "backwater" assignments. (Let everyone else ask for a posting in Germany, Fort Meade, or Fort Devens.) Your branch manager may exclaim to his co-workers: "Holy cow! This lieutenant asked to be assigned to Umatilla Army Depot!" -----end of 28goodb.txt notes, next starts 28goodc.txt my clips for print::::why we prepare:-- I consider preparing my Christian duty. I'm also stocking up lots of extra food, clothing, and so forth for charity, which is also my Christian duty.
-- Myself, I am what would be called a "millennialist" based on my beliefs from the Bible. The majority of mankind is stupid and sinful. Thousands of years and we are still doing the same mistakes over and over. I do not believe in any Gene Roddenberry vision where mankind, by its own efforts, rises from the ashes and evolves into a benevolent a Star Trek society. Nothing sort of divine intervention will save us in the long run from permanent self-destruction----Now aren't I a cheerful one to invite to a social gathering?;)
Just for the record, I'm not one of those nuts that believe in trying to hasten or encourage the Second coming The world is dong a fine job all by itself.
----nt "comfort level." The region might fare just fine in a 1930s-style depression, but in the event of something more severe--like a grid-down socioeconomic collapse, in my estimation there are about three or four times too many people than can be supported peaceably. (OBTW, if you'd like a glimpse of what the Willamette Valley might be like in a worst case economic collapse, read S.M. Stirling's science fiction novel "Dies The Fire".) Since you are concerned about a post-Peak Oil collapse, you might look particularly at the Grande Ronde Valley. Its population density is much more in line with sustainable self-sufficiency. And it gets a lot more sunshine than western Oregon, so it is more advantageous for photovoltaic (PV) alternative power systems. Just be sure to get a parcel that has plentiful water. And unless you have your heart set on Oregon, my personal recommendation for a much better Peak Oil retreat locale is the Palouse Hills region of north-central Idaho. It is a very good agricultural region with reliable rains, but it is far removed from the population centers of Portland and Seattle, as well as California's enormous Golden Horde. (Again, for details on the Palouse, see Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.)---advice about firefighting and resources to do so, he might want to look into joining his local Volunteer Fire Department (VFD). Fire departments are the first ones (along with law enforcement) to be summoned to any natural or man-made disaster. For this reason, almost all fire departments (including the VFDs) prepare, trains themselves for disaster!---volunteer gig; my department pays a $400 a month pension when I'm 62 if I stay active in the company for 20 years. May not sound like much, but that ---different degrees of physical ability. Another big plus is now that the Department of Homeland Security has implemented a standardized National Response Plan (NRP) and National Incident Management System (NIMS), there has been an impetus to standardize protocols between departments on things such as identification. In my company we receive county/state issued ID cards that have our name, photo, physical description and identify (in my case) the bearer as a Firefighter in the (name of town) Fire Department. On the back are the state seal and county seal. In the event of Bad Times, this ID can be a big help in getting around. ---Since I've been in my company, I've learned the following things that can help my family and I in an emergency: I know what the local municipalities disaster plans are. I know what resources are available and I know how long they will last. In short, I know how long before the refugees become a hungry mob. At no cost to me I got credentialed as a Certified First Responder. I learned all the 'ins and outs' of the county's communication systems. I know where all the repeaters are, how much fuel they have and what frequencies all the local agencies use. In the event of a smallpox or Avian Flu pandemic, I will be one of the first people vaccinated and will be assisting in the distribution of vaccine(killer-drugs)---I persuaded my company to avail itself of Federal programs that allow for first responder agencies to purchase (for a nominal fee) surplus military equipment. Our company has pallets of MREs (ostensibly to feed the crews during wildfires), we have trailer mounted military generators (for when power to the municipality goes out and we need to power the local emergency shelter) and are currently looking at several other useful 'dual-purpose' items. Probably the best thing is that I have learned how preparation pays off. It is one thing to prepare for social collapse; there are no rehearsals or try-outs. Society collapses or it doesn't and you are prepared or you are not. ---of salt. In short, without electricity and reliable refrigeration, salt is the primary means of food preservation. If you live near the coast, you can gather salt from the sea, as well as those living near a salt spring, or dry salt bed, etc. Everyone else will have to stock it up or trade for it. Iodized salt is the preferable solution because it contains the small amount of iodine that the human body needs, the deficiency of which is called goiter, and can lead to birth defects such as mental retardation, thyroid disorders, and loss of IQ. If you live near the ocean, you can get the necessary iodine by adding seafood (including seaweed) to your diet.---use as back-up "get out of Dodge" vehicles. If things start looking dicey, you could leave your family at the motel and spend your nights there, for as long as you are in "wait and see" mode. (The period when presumably you determine if the situation has deteriorated to the point of necessitating totally "pulling the plug" on your paycheck and moving to your distant retreat for the long term. ) This will both save you the expense of buying or leasing a "forward location" cabin, and it will also eliminate most of the risk of burglary of the requisite supplies--which otherwise is a huge risk for an unattended cabin just 60 miles from a metropolitan area. ---Thursday February 15 2007 Active Preparedness Planning: Identifying and Mitigating Threats, by Paul C.
Here is my approach to actively preparing for disasters: 1. Identify potential threats. 2. Gather quantitative and qualitative information on impact. 3. Identify which threats are the most likely. 4. Identify critical needs for survival. 5. Estimate outage time that can be tolerated. 6. Compile resource requirements. 7. Identify alternatives.
1. Identify potential threats. Threats will come from two main areas: man-made or natural. Man-made threats include labor strikes, riots, fires, chemical spills, terrorism, and vandals. A labor strike might mean that garbage collection or that public transportation stops. Urban riots have hit cities like Los Angeles, Seattle, Miami, and Cleveland in recent years. Wildfires are the number one disaster threat in much of the south. Industrial areas have large amounts of chemicals hauled in and out by the trainload, these tracks run the length and width of the nation. Terrorism might have a direct or in-direct impact upon you. Finally vandals might come upon your second home and destroy it and its contents.---Conclusion It's been said that if you don't focus on the target you'll miss it every time. This brief primer isn't meant to cover all aspects of disaster survival but it is meant to get you to start thinking in a focused manner on your plans. Over time things change and both the primary and secondary plans to be reviewed to ensure that they are current. A key point becomes when to actually activate the plans and it's often better to error your judgment---where the goods they carry need to go. Rail lines, generally, do not go through the best parts of towns. If someone bugging-out has to traverse a city to get to his or her retreat, they will be exposing themselves to unnecessary risks in those parts of town.
If it sounds like I do not think using the rails for a travel route is a good idea, you would be correct. I have spent considerable time driving on the rails and have encountered these problems first hand. The rails are not a---Evasion. If there's a chance of running into goblins in the woods, navigation becomes more complicated. Moving undetected can be a challenge but can be done. Motion attracts an enemy's eye more than camouflage can conceal you from him. For example, most deer and squirrels you probably see in the woods are noticed because of a twitch of the ear or a flick of the tail that alerts you to their presence. They are naturally hard to see, but the slightest movement can give them away. Move slowly, stop and look. Patience is a virtue that can save your skin. Noise can also compromise your location. Be aware of noise and disturbing foliage and animals (birds or deer/elk). Masking your sounds by traveling in damp or windy weather may help. When crossing "lines of communication" such as rivers or roads, cross at areas with limited visibility such as bends or shaded areas. Don't follow trails or "lines of communication" or leave tracks on or near them. Avoid open areas where you can be seen from far away. This will reduce your chance of being seen, but will slow you down considerably! Instead of trail hiking at 1.5 to 3 mph, you might be lucky to go a quarter mile an hour in some terrain if you have to do it quietly and without being seen. Off road travel will also require much more effort and most likely be noisier. Plan for this. Also consider what time of day you will be starting and stopping your movement. To avoid being seen by Night Vision Devices (NVDs), dawn and dusk can provide a light condition that is too dark to be easily seen with the naked eye, yet too light for NVDs to work well. Air Force Pamphlet 64-5 Aircrew Survival is a great resource that gives an overview of evading capture while traveling in a hostile environment. Conceal your direction of travel in case you are captured (no sense in showing the bad guys where you were going). This includes not writing down headings or making markings on a map, and if you are using a military-type lensatic compass that locks the compass dial when it is closed, turn the compass off course before locking the dial so that your last heading is not revealed. To mark a map temporarily, use sticks, pine needles or string to show lines of position or course direction. This overview is just a brief and limited summary of things to consider if you need to travel to survive. I hope it has provided food for thought and grounds for further research (FFTAGFFR). I also hope that I've included some tips that can keep you safe. Be Prepared, - GlobalScout----Thursday January 11 2007 Ten Things That Will Get You Killed While Bugging In, by Paul C.
"Bugging in" is the term used for staying at home while waiting for an event to pass you by. [As opposed to "bugging out"--fleeing to a lightly populated region.] Even the largest civil events of the last one hundred years haven't set society off here in the United States of its normal course for more than two weeks. Double that for a month and you'll survive, or out survive, any---After whatever event that has set society on its end has struck the 99 out of one hundred people that haven't prepared for survival are going to be out looking for supplies. Those people will have some sort of firearm likely and as hunger, dehydration, and panic set in they will become more and more willing to use violence as a means to secure what they want from you. I recommend keeping the lowest possible profile possible as stealth is one of the best weapons available. 1. Starvation. You need to have enough food on your shelves for at least a month. Stock up on military MREs, canned soups, and canned meats. Foods that do not require---2. Dehydration. In some locations around the United States there is almost a constant supply of rain or running water. Under some conditions rain can become contaminated but normally within a week any chemical, biological, or nuclear pollution will have fallen out of the sky. Ground water supplies can become infected for much longer. Wells and pumps should have their outputs filtered. Have a method of gathering rain water if for use only in sanitation. I recommend having enough cases of bottled water for a month. Rationing food is much easier when there is extra water. Water is much cheaper to keep in quantities, a case of 24 liters of water should provide three days of drinking water and costs about $4. Like your food stores these should be rotated into your normal drinking water. Realize that some food containers will rot out fairly quickly – use clean soda bottles rather then milk containers if you're storing water on the cheap. 3. Exposure to Extreme Weather. The weather is something that continues even when we're having problems. Imagine your home without the normal supply of electrical and natural gas energy during the worse spell of weather a typical winter can throw at you. Without a source of energy your home will do little more than supply shelter from the wind and rain or snow. Propane heaters can provide clean burning heat but like any source of combustion they require a supply of fresh air less they burn up all the oxygen in the room. Do not burn charcoal indoors as it not only burns up the oxygen it gives off deadly carbon monoxide. Have plenty of warm clothing available for use indoors and out. Synthetic materials that retain some warming ability even when wet are important. Keep your feet, hands, head and neck warm as they are where most heat is lost from. Mittens are far better at keeping hands warm then gloves. A tiny hole can allow the use of the trigger finger. 4. Sanitation. Without flushing water toilets will not function. Even low flow toilets require a bit more than a gallon to flush. If the event is going to be a normal short "week or so" civil outage you can manually load the toilet tank with a bucket of water. Liquid waste can be gathered during the day and poured discretely at night into a location distant from any natural source of water you might be gathering. Solid waste can be put into plastic bags which can be sealed and placed into trash cans. 5. Light. If the source of electricity has been cut off using a flashlight or lantern will draw people like bugs to a street light. People have a natural fear of the dark and there's nothing like being the only source of light for blocks to draw an unwelcome crowd. If you do use lights after dark use them as little as possible. Red filters will help keep the use of light discrete. Draw your shades or blinds like normal and then nail blankets, cardboard, or better yet, pre-prepared plywood over the insides. This effort will keep in heat, hold down the noise, block light, and add some protection against looters or attackers. 6. Smoke. Smoke can be seen for a great distance as can the smell of it or cooking food. Sit outside one summer evening with a light breeze and you'll smell cooking going on from a hundred yards away. Burning trash can raise a great deal of smoke and doesn't make sense initially unless your neighbors are also doing it. If you have to burn trash gather several days worth together and burn it in a trash can with ventilation holes in the bottom. This will help the fire burn hotter and emit less smoke. Extinguish the fire after use rather then letting it linger. Cigarette smoke can also be smelled from a great distance away. 7. Noise. It is amazing how far normal conversation or household noise can travel at night in a silent city. Those who have been hunting in the early hours know how far sound travels, you can hear a noisy hunting party clear across a---8. Activity. If you're trying to remain hidden in plain sight motion will certainly give you away. Chores that require you to leave the house should be done only after dark. Wear dark clothing or better camouflage that matches your environment. Resting during the day and patrolling or gathering after dark maintains the lowest profile. If you do have to move about during the day stay off of trails, streets, and ridge lines where you're likely to be seen first. The use of passive night vision goggles can help greatly when moving around after dark. If the ground is covered with freshly fallen snow limit your upsetting of the blanket until more is falling or the winds pick up to cover your tracks back to your place. 9. Nuclear, Biological, Chemical Weapons. Whether they are released intentionally or accidentally they can kill you just as dead, just as fast. Nuclear weapons kill by blast and radiation. Dirt is your friend with both forms of energy. Ideally being shielded by massive quantities of dirt is the best protection. Living on the far side of a mountain or having a basement shelter where you can keep below the initial blast of radiation. Fallout is radioactive matter in the dust and debris that follows a blast. Most fallout settles within hours, within days it is almost completely gone. Weather can help with rainfall and high winds. The longer you can stay sheltered the lower your chance of getting radiation sickness is. Filtering the air within your shelter can be done with gas masks. You should become familiar with the fit and feel of a mask prior to needing one. Protecting against some chemical agents is similar to nuclear fallout. Those chemicals that are dust like can be filtered with ease, gas-like agents will dissipate with time and wind. Oily chemicals can spread with contact with contaminated surfaces. Wearing disposable chemical resistant coveralls, gloves, and over-boots can keep contaminates outside when coming back indoors. Biological agents are greatly affected by the weather and can be rendered harmless by sun, rain, cold, and heat. Avoiding them is a matter of keeping buttoned up for a few days or possibly weeks. 10. Communications It is only natural to desire to communicate with outside loved ones. This will normally require the use of a amateur "ham" radio, CB, or FRS radio. Realize that the ability to track the source of communications isn't that difficult. Amateur radio clubs do "fox hunts" to practice finding hidden transmitters. If you do use radio communications keep them short and cryptic if the event becomes really serious and to the point where people are getting desperate. One time pads can be used – both parties have a look-up table to decode prearranged phrases. These are changed each patrol. Have a wideband scanner receiver so that you can listen for the authorities or even on other [survival] group's communications. - Paul C.---Saturday December 30 2006 Letter Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales
Mr. Rawles, If one takes the Rawles Ranch criteria for minimum safe distance from large metropolitan areas - 400 miles from an area of 1 million or more, then one has eliminated all of the west except Montana north of Helena and North Dakota west of Bismarck (With a small piece of South Dakota northwest of Pierre too). Indeed, all of Idaho (the state mentioned in your novel-----------While a safe distance criteria is an important consideration, living closer to cities (but off of major lines of drift) may be more important to most of your readers in the western USA. Long term, the agricultural climate and radiological hazards may be very important as well. However, the more I read from your blog, as well as "classical" sources like Mel Tappan, Robert Heinlein, and David Brin, leads me to conclude that living in or near a small community of like minded, prepared people may be the most important criteria of all. - Sun Dog
JWR Replies: The location of the Rawles Ranch--400+ miles from the nearest major metro area--was an admittedly ultraconservative selection. We like our elbow room and we prefer to have more deer and elk than people for neighbors. In conversations with my consulting clients, I often cite 200 miles as a typical "safe distance" figure, and 300+ miles as the ideal. I suppose that I would only feel nervous within a 150 mile radius. It is interesting that you mention Ciudad Juarez. That is one of the population centers that is shown as a "cross border" threat in one of the maps in my recently released non-fiction book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.--Letter Re: Manpower Requirements for Defending a Retreat in a Worst Case, and the Jealous Neighbor Factor
James:
The "Mr. and Mrs. Oscar" profile was most interesting. For a lot of us, probably the epitome of "If I had the money, my retreat would be..." On the downside, I would be concerned with:
1. The problem of defending/patrolling the property. A quarter section translates to a full mile of frontier. In a full SHTF situation, I'd want a trustworthy, commo equipped, well-armed loyal soul every 100 yards or so. If those folks put in 12 hour shifts, you'd need about 35 hands for perimeter security. That doesn't take into account the roving patrols on the interior of the compound, nor the rapid response fire team(s). 2. The "jealous neighbor" factor. Human nature being what it is, you can bet that there's a few locals who figure that when the balloon goes up, "Those rich people with that big house should have grub to spare." 3. Every fella who delivers gas, propane and diesel knows all the details of his route. People talk. 4. With all those Class 2 weapons, I'd be concerned about being a bit too high on the radar screen. 5. The problem with "Meeting others of our ilk." is widespread. I wish I had an answer. All in all, a most interesting read. - Hawgtax JWR Replies: The level of security that you describe (35 people!) would only be required if you had a retreat that was close to a city or right on a line of drift and it was an absolute worst case scenario. I think that even in the midst of TEOTWAWKI, having just one or two LP/OPs manned 24/7 and supplemented with intrusion detection sensors (such as a Dakota Alert passive IR system) and some trip flares would be provide sufficient warning to quickly man a defense. Once it is clear to the bad guys that you are on your guard and well armed.(just one burst of semi-auto high power rifle fire would probably be good clue) then looters will go find an softer and more inattentive target elsewhere. ---starvation, gunshot, etc. Any condition less than a true TEOTWAWKI will have had services restored to the level of existing with unpleasant difficulty at least within a few months. 2. Bug out just before TEOTWAWKI: If you haven't prepared a suitable place with lots of supplies stored or fleeing with a convoy of semi's filled with supplies. Then you will become either a refugee or looter. Neither status will be welcome in rural America. 3. Urban residents can prepare for limited disasters or a situation where bugging out will be for a limited time where the government will continue to function.
Semi-rural and rural families have the possibility of long term survival with adequate preparedness. 1. Everything starts with planning. The first of every year should be list of what is needed for survival. If you're just starting. Then a list for three to six months is a good starting place. After that long term projects and items are included in subsequent lists. Every year I make a list of at least twenty-five goals in the area of survival to accomplish. Every hour of actual preparedness should be directly related to an equal time in study and planning. A good survival library is a must. 2. Study and research into the field of Survival will become your second job. This is serious study and not just reading internet blogs. Several months ago I was annoyed by a lady that was asking questions on an internet site that revealed that she had only an elementary school level of knowledge of first aid and was totally clueless about nuclear fallout. Yet she had found time to post over 850 entries over the last six months, but not had bothered to do even the most basic reading. 3. Your bug out bag should be in your car and contain what is needed to get home if the roads are gridlocked and you have to walk. Your home should be your survival outpost. The last thing you should become is a fleeing refugee being herded into a government refugee camp. 4. Develop an operation plan that details what each family member is expected for them to do during the first 72 hours of a situation. Different tasks for different situations. This will keep a focus on accomplishing necessary tasks that will make the difference between a family's survival or succumbing to the disaster. 5. Prepare for those that are welcome to hunker-down with you. This is the worse part; you must give a warning in uncompromising language that others must come prepared to your gate. Recently my best friend from childhood observe red one of my many storage shelves and exclaimed, "Why should I prepare, I'm coming to stay with you if anything happens". Sadly I had to inform him if he showed at the gate with nothing but his appetite, he would be turned away. He asked if our lifelong friendship didn't mean anything. I simply replied, "Which one of my children goes hungry, so that I can feed you?" 6. Do include those that you know well that are willing to make the commitment to actively contribute and not be a burden to your family's survival. Two other families will join us in their campers and they have already stored their year's supply of dehydrated food in our basement. Besides, you will always need the additional firepower in an unpleasant situation.
Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.----Tuesday December 26 2006 Two Letters Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales? paused 28goodc.txt search
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Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.----Tuesday December 26 2006 Two Letters Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales? ---pickings. There's a segment of our society that projects the belief that being strong causes one to become a target. This is the same mentality that won't touch firearms to avoid "escalating the violence." However, historically, a defended stronghold of unknown content and capabilities is the last place an unorganized mob will approach. Most criminals diverted by firearms are not actually shot; a simple discharge is sufficient. The attacker has to weigh risk of death vs chance of food/loot. Does the attacker know you have stockpiles of gear and food? Or are you likely just a guy in a cabin with a sleeping bag and a rifle? One might be worth dying for, the other is not, and the odds are a gamble at best. There's also the consideration of whether or not one is a lone household, or has neighbors for mutual defense. It doesn't take much crossfire to make a ---some looters. Take a map of the United States and schoolboy's drawing compass and start drawing 300 mile radius circles around any city of 800,000 or more, you will soon see that anywhere east of the Missouri River there will little more than multiple overlapping circles. If my prediction is right, then this does not bode well for easterners. Everyone has their own "comfort zone,"---learn how to grow food in time (or barter stored wealth) but no matter how good you are, sooner or later you'll take casualties if you are in the [path of the] "looter flow." The question I am wrestling with, is -- if you can't move full time to your retreat, what is the minimum distance you can afford to be from a major metro area, say 1 million people? Obviously the further away the better for safety -- but you also want to be as close as possible as well: You want to be close enough that you could get to it bugging out on foot, in a worst case scenario.---You could even get creative with building below grade, camouflage, etc., etc. to be even lower profile. Also if you have a well trained team with sufficient numbers, and your perimeter security is very tight, you might want to chance being closer. What else could you do to lower the distance needed? Bottom line - how close is no good---One thing that you could do to to reduce the distance required is to studiously avoid natural lines of drift. (Such as major highways, river valleys, railroad tracks, and coastal liitorals.) There are potential retreat locales perhaps just 75 miles from major cities that might be bypassed because they are on disadvantageous terrain. (Think in terms of hilly country with just a few small access roads, islands, properties that are on the far side of natural obstacles such as rivers, or that are in large river delta regions.) Take a few weekend drives in the rural areas near where you live. Do some careful map study and then do some driving to meticulously search for the hard-to-access areas. By concentrating on such bypassed areas, you will be off the path of more than 90% of potential looters. But even still, anywhere less than 200 miles from major metropolitan areas will be a gamble, in my estimation.---JWR Replies: The only people that have effective radio direction finding ("DF") equipment and the requisite expertise to operate it are A.) The NSA and a few other government agencies such as the FCC--mainly for tracking down unlicensed pirate stations, and B.) ham radio operators themselves, who practice playing "fox and hound". (Here is a sample of a site dedicated to the latter --quite a sport.) Hams tend to be very law-abiding folks. I can't imagine many of them going renegade and turning into looters. However, I can foresee many looter gangs showing rudimentary SIGINT skills and using portable public service band ("police") scanners. So it is wise to use low power and directional antennas. Never mention surnames, locationu, lat/long, map coordinates, or street addresses "in the clear." In my estimation, it is not likely that looter gangs would be sufficiently sophisticated to use DF gear. But never take anything for granted. It is conceivable that someone that worked in the SIGINT community could sell their services to a large looter gang, in a "slow slide" situation. Be prudent and take the proper COMSEC measures. If and when the Schumer hits the fan, you should construct your own brevity codes and change your call signs and frequencies frequently.---Monday December 18 2006 Letter Re: America's Interstate Highway and Freeway System in Decline---Wednesday November 29 2006 Letter Re: Tactical Vests as Wearable Mini Bug Out Bags---Do Your Prior Planning If you haven't made a list of supplies – and this should be a total list of supplies, not just the ones you still need – get one made, copy one from the Internet or use one from FEMA or the Red Cross. Break it into manageable sections or categories. I use "kits" for my lists. There's a "Water Kit" that lists all things pertaining to water; canteens, holders, cups, filters, spares, etc. There's a Food Kit, Shelter Kit, Commo Kit, Light Kit, Knife Kit, Gun Kit, and the always needed Miscellaneous Kit. My Kits lists go on for over 20 pages, but when I have all of that equipment together and ready to go then I'll know I'm almost prepared. Make you a list and make it complete.---In Conclusion Get prepared – that is, make your lists, do your inventories, and know ahead of time what you need. Stay alert for sales and opportunities to purchase at reduced prices. And buy what you can when you can, save for the things you need, and no matter what you're still missing when TSHTF you'll be far better off than if you did nothing. Don't depend on Uncle Sam – he cannot and will not do it all. Don't depend on friends and family – they all have their own to take care of. Stock up for yourself and be ready to share with those less fortunate and in need.---gas rated respirators and said, here, take these, my full face mask is upstairs. You should have seen the stunned looks! They could not believe that I just walked into the garage and produced personal protective gear for them in under 10 seconds. I chose not to share with them the extent of my ability to deal with a variety of other situations. As it turned out, my friends stayed over and the wives sheltered in place as they were just 2/10 mile ---could be turned upside-down, imagine how EMP could block all roads with dead cars). We all have our individual ideas of what to carry but to view the contents of ultralight hikers packs, try these links:Hikelight gear listBackpacking.netUIltralighSome ideas about lightweight foods to carry The CRKT M16 Special Forces "Big Dog" knifeThe Glock 30 (only 680 grams empty.)"Buff" headgearMerino "Smartwool" productsA great source for lihtweight and technical fabricsWell made, inexpensive shellsExpensive but well built gearHudson TrailCampmor Lightweight shoes (the best online shoe store, hands down!):Tilley hats Regarding lightweight body armor, shop carefully I think that the links above pretty much cover everything I mentioned in my article but you'll find more information than you could ever get through by Googling "ultralight hiking". Save your back and travel fast and light! Best Regards, - Jim K.---started reading about "ultralight" hiking. Everything you carry is weighed and the goal is keep your entire pack under 20 pounds. ------The average pair of "waffle stomper" style boots weigh in at about four pounds, while the ankle-high running shoes that I wear are less than 2 pounds. For every mile you walk in heavy boots, you're lifting about a ton of weight (literally, 2000 pounds) more than you'd be hoisting in lighter shoes, and it all adds up! A heavy-duty combat style backpack can weigh 7 pounds empty, while the pack I carry is less than a pound. By the way, if you want to travel light, you'll need to become familiar with a fabric called "silnylon" which is nylon treated with silicon (waterproof and featherweight). It's a miracle to camp with but be *very* careful with flame (don't get it near the stuff). Rather than travel with a 10 pound tent in your pack, try a silnylon tarp/poncho overhead and a bivy sack (which is a waterproof cover for your sleeping bag) which, combined, weigh well less than a pound. Some budget ultralight hikers use a 6'x8' sheet of Tyvek as a ground cloth or tarp (weighs next to nothing). You get the idea? Rather than invest in a Camelback-type rig for carrying water, I carry 2 liter soda bottles (which are free, weigh nothing and don't develop that "funky" taste that the bladders get after a while). We weighed the canteen that one of the guys was carrying and it was a couple of pounds, empty! In lieu of a stove, the same guy carried a 4 pound ax (to gather "firewood"), while I carried a "Coke can" stove ( http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html ) that, along with it's fuel (denatured alcohol) weighs less than 3 ounces! The poor guy was hungry (no dinner the night before) and it took him almost an hour to gather his wood, split it and get a good fire going before he could start breakfast. I think it goes without saying that if we'd been "bugging out", the time taken and the tell-tale smoke from the fire would've been unacceptable. That's another aspect of ultralight hiking that works for survivalists, "leave no trace of your visit" to give away your position or make it easy to be tracked. We felt it prudent to leave our rifles at home and stick with concealed carry (people get spooked seeing armed men marching in the woods out of hunting season). Keeping with the light BOB idea, I had my Glock 30 along with 2-10 round magazines (the idea is to make every shot count, if need be, and to travel so quietly as to be unseen and untargeted) and my favorite knife for this kind of hike, a CRKT M16- which is a skeletonized folder that thinks it's a fixed blade knife (even has a true hilt) and weighs in at 5.6 ounces. True to the intent of this trip, I also wore my IIA [body armor] vest, being sure to wear a synthetic material tee-shirt under it. When you hike for any distance, the last material you'll want against your skin is cotton, which will absorb sweat and make you miserable no matter if the weather is hot or cold. Though the hike was in the Summer in Vermont, we were all carrying everything we'd need, even in the dead of Winter. Clothing-wise, I carry synthetic underwear- long and short, Merino wool shirt and pants (which are convertible to shorts), a synthetic fleece jacket, a light insulated parka, and breathable rain gear. I also carry waterproof gaiters, vapor barrier socks, several pairs of technical, Merino wool socks, one pair saved for use only when sleeping (and therefore, always dry, a real treat after a day of hiking) and two pairs of gloves (one fits over the other) It pays to have either a synthetic balaclava or a "Buff" (a multipurpose head/neck wrap) along and I always carry my Tilley's hat for shade, the only cotton piece in my kit. For light, I stick to tiny LEDs as a normal flashlight with 2 D cells weighs in at half a pound. I also try to utilize dried and freeze dried foods as much as possible to lighten the load. The trick is to constantly look for places where you can cut weight. For example, most people don't really need a full length pad to sleep on, so you trim the pad to 3/4 and you save a few ounces. You wear light layers rather than carry an entire wardrobe for each season. There are people who even go so far as to cut off any labels or trim that they deem unnecessary, trying to pare down another ounce. You also want to try to carry things that are "multi-purposed" so that you carry fewer items. Some things, like a one ounce mosquito head net, are worth their weight in gold and you'd be foolish to travel the back country without them. By the end of the second day of this trip, these ideas were starting to make sense to my fellow hikers. The ax carrier was starting to understand that twigs made more sense than logs for the fires he was making and all of them were cursing the weight (and unneeded items) they were carrying. They were converts by the time we got home again and each of them has completely reworked their BOB, thanks to the on the ground lessons we all learned. Even if the idea of an ultralight BOB doesn't appeal to you, you owe it to yourself (and those who depend on you) to give your own BOB a "real world" trial, to see if it lives up to your needs and is actually as "haul-able" as you think it is.- Hawaiian K.----recycling company in Apex, NC, several miles to the east near Raleigh, NC. Something over 16,000 residents of Apex have been urged to evacuate so far as a large plume of a chlorine-like smelling substance moves through the area. All local, state and federal agencies have been called in to assess and 300 firefighters so are are waiting until daylight (7am-ish) to go in assess and---was first reported 10pm (Eastern time) last night. Several police and one firefighter are being treated for inhalation problems Currently there is an adjacent petroleum co. next door where four tanks have also caught fire and exploded, exacerbating the situation...all schools in the apex area have been---If you follow local links (wral.com) and (newsobserver.com) you may get some updates on how this thing develops and is resolved...the large plume of ---The diesel fuel contaminated hoses will "swell up like toady-frog", then burst. Resist the urge to drive a diesel with a fuel leak - have the leak repaired. The first thing I do to a diesel with an unverifiable service history is replace the fuel filter, then coolant and coolant hoses. Once you acquire the vehicle of your choice, keep a spare starter, glow plug relay and alternator in "the recently mentioned on the blog" homemade Faraday cage - a used/discarded microwave oven(!) - and keep it in the back of the truck in a Rubbermaid Action Packer.---down (heat and humidity were horrible) I watched a character approach – he was intently looking into each vehicle he passed. Once he reached my truck he approached the driver's side and wanted to buy gas that I was carrying (having it in the open was a mistake). I explained that it was not for sale – I would need it when I got home. Then he became very belligerent and indicated that he was going to take it to get to New Orleans. It became clear that the situation was critical, some with well practiced motion I introduced him to the 1911, at which point he wisely elected to be somewhere else. I realized that safety was off and I had taken up slack on on the trigger – I had committed to use deadly force in a split second, right or wrong. The event did diffuse the situation immediately and efficiently. It took 12 + hours to traverse less than 30 miles in the truck. My partner made the trip by hiking and catching a ride in less than 4 hours. Over the period of the next few days the world took on a totally different aspect. We were under martial law – no firearms, ammunition,or alcohol and a sunset to sunrise curfew. As both our businesses were firearms related there was the need for a degree of security around the clock. The local law enforcement was stretched so thin as to be of no response value. As we are just north of the Mississippi/Louisiana border, the community grew from 12,000 to around 51,000 in a few days. Having prepared (largely in part to your novel "Patriots") we were able to meet those whom chose not to observe the curfew, and probe the "edges", in a decisive manner. Generators helped light one of the businesses, but they are very noisy, so we had to depend on the dogs. In the other we chose to be completely dark, and depend on the dogs for early warning. We learned that a schedule for sleep, chores, eating, and duty helped offset the elevated "wired" condition. In the planning I chose a home with a "artesian" free flowing well (~ 3-5 psi) , however without power for wells many folks uncapped free flowing wells in the area stopping the flow due to the relieved pressure points. Some municipal water was available on a limited basis. Water quality was a concern. With temperatures in the mid to high nineties and humidity there as well water for animals and electrolytes for people were hugely importantly (those containing sugar were not as effective, and seemed to be harmful). We came through fine, and the lessons learned have been incorporated. Electricity took 17 days to [be restored to] my home and phone service [restoration] 10 weeks. No local government help was in evidence for five days. Almost all of the supplies and relief in the first few days came through the local churches (they were and still are the most effective distribution system). During events like these dealing with otherwise good people has severely changed our approach to people and denial. Some where near 80% of the people in the area are still not making any preparations against significant events. The mental toll it has taken on the community is still visible today. Lessons Learned: 1. Carry what you need but keep as much out of sight as possible 2. Expect to have to dissuade those whom feel entitled to your supplies 3. The aspect of deadly force is an effective deterrent – be prepared to use it or abandon your provisions 4. Know and pay attention to your early warning systems – animal or electronic 5. Big dogs, and alert dogs are a great help 6. Practice, shoot, practice, plan, practice The bottom line is, that in any event, there are unforeseen consequences. The time that you set down with your group and define what, when, and where will be of paramount value. Understand that some of the group may not make it (some of ours was trapped far away) the rest can and will have the resources available, and take up the slack, until such a time that all can join up. I do laugh easier, shoot more and plan more effectively now. Remember: technology may help but your brain will save your life!---reminder on several lessons that are so easy to let slide. 1) If your stuff is organized it's a lot faster and easier. If it's a jumble, it's time consuming nightmare. It took very little time when my stuff was well-packed and labeled, but it seemed to take forever when I had to organize and move at the same time. Keep it all organized in plastic tubs (not cardboard boxes that fold in the rain) and clearly labeled to avoid confusion. Don't raid your BOB for one item, and leave it unpacked, etc.,-----2) Don't move too much stuff! The preparedness mindset can also be a pack rat mentality, and we definitely had too much stuff to move. Twice as much stuff t--3) If your equipment is well-maintained you might be okay. If not, Murphy's Law will bite with a vengeance.---4) If your fitness is not up, you will suffer. I'm in pretty good shape, running 20+ miles per week, but moving several tons of stuff, and all the stress of moving, still wiped me out by the end of the day. If you aren't on a physical fitness program, it will be a short, sharp shock to find out how badly our sedentary lives prepare us for hard physical work. Even just walking briskly for a half hour a day is a good start. 5) Keep ALL of your body maintained - moving, or bugging out, is not the time for an illness, a toothache, or a backache. Don't let yourself get in a sleep deficit, eat your veggies, see the dentist every six months, and get proactive on any physical weaknesses. Keep your body ahead of the curve on maintenance. I have had some minor back problems in the past, so I got on my back maintenance exercises and pulled through with only minor soreness. These two books are absolutely excellent to get fast results correcting the root causes - and avoid wasting time and money with doctors that only treat symptoms: Treat Your Own Back The Back Power Program My bet is a lot of older folks who try to bug out will also put their back out, and really be in serious trouble. 6) Get strong mentally. Expect screw-ups and prepare mentally to deal with them. About half of the various services and contractors we arranged with, showed up late and/or didn't do everything they were supposed to do. So don't plan or relying on anyone but yourself to get it done right, and make a conscious choice that you will face the inevitable stresses with a can-do attitude - even better, with good humor. Monitor your own behavior and discipline yourself to make the right choices. This is something we can all practice every day. 7) Build slack time into the plan. Between too much stuff, and truck repair problems, and contractor screw ups, my original idea of how long it "should" take was a fantasy. Think how long it "should" take, double it for a more realistic estimate, and then plan around a worst case of doubling the time again.8) Practice by taking a camping or backpacking trip. You'll find out your strength and weaknesses, and get a chance to correct before you have to do it for real.Hope it helps, - OSOM---Can't leave these on a computer since retrieval without electricity would be impossible. I believe the more probable catastrophe will be an economic one, possibly related to terrorist activities and have planned accordingly. I have my small retreat, eight acres in the North Georgia mountains, four acres in woods, the---water. I figure that if times get truly bad I can expect family nearby (as many as 15) to want to come stay with me. I cannot refuse them and am planning accordingly. I have drafted letters and e-mails to be sent last minute telling them what to expect. I tell them if they plan to come to proceed in the following manner:
1- Acquire all available cash, (savings, checking, stashed, mad money, etc) 2- Fill up one vehicle with gas. (Purchase, empty other car, lawnmower, etc) 3-Refill as much prescription drugs as they can afford, even using credit cards. Don't worry about insurance, just pay the price. 4- Leaving just enough room for people, pack the car in this order of value: a-Non perishable foods, spices, etc. b-Medicines and medical devices c-Arms and ammo, knives, axes, maintenance items, d-Clothes, heavy duty everyday wearable, don't forget out of season clothes e- Cooking and preserving items, dishes, pots, supplies f-Any fuels and oils, kerosene, motor oil, charcoal. propane g-Tools, battery operated items (radios) h- Mattress (not box springs), linens, towels, etc. i-Personal items, brushes, books, razor, 5- Have some means of communication, cell phone, C.B. or walkie-talkie for on the road. Bottom line is: DON'T ARRIVE EMPTY HANDED. They won't be turned away, but let them know something is expected.
I have rated each person as to capability to work and defend the homestead and expect each to do a fair share of any duty assigned. Some will be able to guard homestead, some would be of little use in that capacity, at least at first. Proper motivation and training can happen along the way.
One item that I have thought of that may not occur to others preparing is [purchasing a pair of ] magnetic [vehicle door] signs. I have several of these made up for my vehicle. One says simply--- SOIL SURVEY. I have put this on the side of my truck while out scouting and placing caches and no one questions me walking about with notepad or digging tool. Best not to be seen, but sometimes hiding in plain sight is a good alternative. Other signs could include:
EMERGENCY TRANSPORT MAINTENANCE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY SURVEY MAPPING DEPARTMENT ACCIDENT INVESTIGATION FORESTRY INSPECTION EMVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
None of these are meant to infer any government or official capacity and if questioned, I intend to state that I am an independent contractor.The proper wording might even come in handy in a bug-out situation getting past a rookie roadblock operation. Good luck and continued success with your endeavors. - PeacePipe in North Georgia
JWR Replies: Needless to say, folks, but never attempt to impersonate a government agent. The "private contractor" idea might work, especially if it is backed up with some business cards with your name the same job title. But honesty is the best policy. If your retreat is across state lines, then get your next driver's license and vehicle registration in the state where you have your retreat property. There is no more compelling story--especially if it is substantiated by a state-issued driver's license--than a truthful one: that you just want to get home. When the Schumer hits the fan, you will be ---Tuesday August 1 2006 Letter Re: Push or Pull Carts For All-Terrain Hauling
James: Regarding Redmist's suggestion to use closed-cell polyurethane foam tires, those tires add a bit of weight, and often you are trying to keep the weight down on the load, Slime® sealant is cheap light weight insurance inside your tires, just ask any hardcore ATV rider and they will tell you so.
I happen to be in the process of making a hand cart for hauling waterfowl decoys into fields where taking a truck is not allowed, a axle, hubs, wheels and tires from a completely trashed ATV, two pillow block bearings and some serious thought and welding and I'll be in business for the next season. - --Saturday July 22 2006 Letter Re: Motorcycle Trails as Cross-Country Bug Out Routes
Hi Jim, Reading the recent posts on escape routes and thought I'd send along this link about the Trans-America Trail. I haven't ridden dirt bikes since I was a teenager, and I've never been on this trail, but supposedly you can go da*n near all the way across the country on this thing. - G.
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Wednesday July 19 2006 Letter Re: Railroads Tracks and Right of Ways as Bug-Out Routes Also to be considered for bug out routes are utility/power line right of ways/easements, fire lanes, biking trails, running trails, ATV trails, and snow mobile trails. Local groups for such recreational trails often give away free maps paid for by advertising. As for high voltage power lines, look up and around as you drive around. Note that most of these trails have lock-offs for regular vehicles, usually using standard padlocks. Note for most, there must be access for emergency vehicles so there is a way in. One might remember the scene in the movie Terminator 2 as Arnold was driving along the access trail along the top of the drainage system. You might consider waterways as well, but remember they tend to flow toward the Ocean and toward population, eventually. There is no substitute for a good map.--- - Rourke
JWR Replies: Use extreme caution if you ever have to use a railroad right-of-way in the event of an emergency. Many lives have been lost because someone thought that they were on "inactive" tracks. Readers might consider joining a legitimate "speeder" (powered railcar) club affiliated with the North American Railcar Operators Association (NARCOA), to gain both practical My father always referred to his bolt cutters as "The universal key." While I do not condone trespassing, vandalism, or theft, I think that it is important that every family own a pair of good quality bolt cutters, preferably 36" length, such as those made by Woodings-Verona Tool Works. They are an ---ame service life. Also keep in mind that many tools from China (such as the "Westward" brand marketed by W.W. Grainger) are usually the product of the laogai ("reform through labor") prison factory system. (Which confines political prisoners.) So if at all possible, buy American, or at least from another free country. (Such as the Japanese HIT brand.)---however, I think there are still a lot of tracks out there. Some I know have been removed but have been turned into hiking trails and such. http://trains.rockycrater.org/pfmsig/atlas.php Hope this is useful. - Larry i ---Tuesday July 4 2006 Letter Re: Preparedness Lessons Learned from The K.T. Ordnance BATFE Raid
Jim, I thought I would give you an up-date on my raid. First, I'm not in jail, nor have I been charged with any crime. Everything that can be written has been written at this time.[JWR Adds: For example, see the discussions at the AR15.com Forums, at LibertyPost.org, 1911Forum.com, et cetera. ]
In retrospect, there are some things I should have done, but that I didn't. (I pooh-poohed some of your preparedness ideas, shame on me. Learn from my mistakes.)
1) Did not stash my extra arms and ammo, and now I don't have them. 2) Should not have been as cooperative as I was, and it was little. 3) Did not have code words ready with wife when I called her. 4) Did not have my files in order, PGP or other software. 5) Thought it would never happen to me. 6) Did not have a bug out bag. My wife thought I was crazy, but now she wants them. 7) Did not heed the five warning signs that I got. All [my friends] thought that I was paranoid. Had I took action on those warnings, they [the BATFE] would have got nothing.
- Richard Celata, Owner of KT Ordnance
JWR Replies: Despite a half dozen letters from readers, I refrained to posing or commenting about this case until now. I waited until I had the time to do some background research and until I got an e-mail directly from the owner of the company. KT Ordnance was formerly an advertiser on SurvivalBlog, and a member of his family is still a SurvivalBlog advertiser. I have not read anything thusfar that would indicate that Richard Celata violated any law, or any BATFE ruling, or any "ATF Letter" guidance. Nor do I have any evidence that Richard is lunatic, a radical, a racist, or an anti-Semite. (Far be it, he is in fact a member of Jews for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership.) Nor have I heard that he has any criminal record. In short, the general consensus is that he was a law-abiding guy that played by the rules, but was nonetheless the recipient of the wrath of the ATF.---BTW I don't intend this post to foster any paranoia. However, I do think that it is prudent for anyone that stocks up logistically to leave a minimal paper/electronic trail. If you are not yet accessing the Internet with Anonymizer or StealthSurfer, you should be!---on height--see the bottom of the listing. This bike was designed and built to be parachuted out of airplanes, to be unfolded and to be ridden away in 30 seconds. These bikes are tough and light! I'm excited to have them in my ---Monday May 8 2006 Letter Re: One Option for a Vehicular Bug-Out Bag
Jim:
I received the following recommendation from a buddy of mine in Houston: "I bought one of these bags for the truck. It is well made and works as a "Oh Sh*t" bag. I put a Glock19 with 8 mags, 2 bottled waters, 2 flashlights, spare batteries, a folding knife, two 50 round boxes of spare ammo and still have room for whatever I come up with. It has a shoulder strap and when adjusted properly, hangs well to the weak-side of body. The pockets are of various sizes and hold well. I take it out of the truck at night and place back [there] in the morning. Highly recommend. Hope that I never need it." - K.T.---Monday May 1 2006 Thoughts On Disaster Survival, by Mel in Texas
I live in Texas so this is on my mind. But could be relative to anything...
Thoughts On Disaster Survival 1. Have a bug-out kit ready at all times. 2. Renew supplies in your bug-out kit on a regular basis. 3. Plan on needing a LOT more supplies than you think. 4. In a real emergency, forget about last-minute purchases. 5. Make sure your vehicle will carry your essential supplies. 6. A big bug-out vehicle can be a handicap. 7. Make sure you have a bug-out place handy. 8. Provide entertainment for younger children. 9. Pack essentials first, then luxuries. 10. Don't plan on fuel being available en route. 11. Have enough money with you for at least two weeks. 12. Don't be sure that a disaster will be short-term. 13. Don't rely on government-run shelters if at all possible. 14. Warn your friends not to bring others with them!!! 15. Have account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions. 16. Have portable weapons and ammo ready (close at hand.) Update 1 1. Route selection is very, very important. 2. The social implications of a disaster situation. (not 'politically correct', but dismiss at your peril)3. Implications for security. 4. "Too many chiefs, not enough Indians" in New Orleans. 5. Long-term vision. 6. Personal emergency planning. 7. The "bank problem." If yours is a local bank and all are under water, for example, checks are unverifiable (read: worthless) 8. Helping one's friends is likely to prove expensive.
Update 2 1. People who were prepared were frequently mobbed/threatened by those who weren't. 2. When help gets there, you may get it whether you like it or not. 3. There seems to be a cumulative psychological effect upon survivors. 4. There is widespread frustration over the lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government. 5. Expect rescuers (including law enforcement) to enforce a distinctly un-Constitutional authority in a disaster situation. 6. Don't believe that rescuers are all knights in shining armor who will respect your property.
Update 3 1. If you choose to help, you may be sucked into a bureaucratic and legal nightmare.2. Law enforcement problems will often be "glossed over" and/or ignored by authorities.3. Your personal and/or corporate supplies and facilities may be commandeered without warning, receipt or compensation. 4. If you look like you know what you're doing, you may be a target of those less prepared. (*IMPORTANT!*)5. Those who thought themselves safe from the disaster were often not safe from refugees. 6. Self-reliance seems to draw suspicion upon you from the authorities. 7. Relief workers from other regions and States often don't know local laws. 8. Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs. Letter Re: Source for Shelf Stable Bread or Crackers? |Main| Letter Re: A Source for Night Vision Scopes »
Saturday March 25 2006 Letter Re: Pedal-Powered Bug Out Vehicle--- xttp://www.andygraham.net/railrod/AndyKeithRide.htm---positions one a cramped remote cabin and some buckets of food and gear the other a friend who had well prepared but was too close to a highway. Circumstances would have dictated which to go to. In winter, my plan was to ski and sled in my gear. Without the assistance of a massive snow plowing network, much of the northern United States would be locked-in, once winter arrived. Almost all logging roads and highways would be closed until the snow melts. This seasonal closure can actually work for your retreat, by providing cheap security--filtering to just a tiny number of Sno-cats and snowmobiles ---across the following article http://www.arcticbeacon.com/22-Jan-2006.html. The article covers a nuclear attack and a financial collapse in America within 90 days. (sometime in March of 2006). This got our attention, BIG TIME. On January 25 the following article was posted on Arcticbeacon http://www.arcticbeacon.com/25-Jan-2006.html. An attack was imminent in 9 days for Texas City-Houston area. On January 26 the following article was posted http://www.arcticbeacon.com/26-Jan-2006b.html. Houston police running nuclear disaster drills. I did my best to checkout the articles and the sources, however, I felt really pressed for time so the decision to bug out was made on January 26. I realize that this might not seem like a lot of good intel, however, since Kansas City was mentioned as a possible target and since we live close to Kansas City, so it really wasn't that hard of a decision. Also, we have been watching the U.S. economy (see the novel by Jim Rawles Patriots), gold and silver, the stock markets, dollars and Euros ( especially dollar reserves vs. euro in other countries), oil and gas, open borders, U.S. and world politics, Iran and Syria, North Korea, etc. We went into "Condition Red". Because the "advanced warning" calculated the possible deed to be accomplished on February 1st or 3rd we decided to bug out to our Rally Point (RP) on the next Monday, January 30. I didn't want us to be trapped in a major city if the balloon went up. I envisioned martial law would be used and traveling would be suspended. I also envisioned road blocks everywhere to stop any more "terrorists" still out there roaming around looking for more targets. Lots of "shoot first and don't ask any questions." This also gave us time to "calmly" pack the vehicles. Even while being highly motivated, at times, we suffered from severe brain deadness. I found you really need a clear cut list of the items to take. You need to have them bagged, boxed and tagged so there is no searching and second guessing yourself. You need to know what goes where in which vehicle. I don't like to say this but I believe thinking about this while doing it causes haste. Your lists and bug out plan(s) have to be already worked out. I can only imagine what it would have been like if the balloon had already gone up. Remember that the time you take loading your vehicle(s) only takes away your bug out time or put another way, your window of opportunity is closing.
FAMILY/FRIENDS/WORK/SCHOOL--We informed a limited number of family members and friends of the situation. We had to treat this like a medical triage situation. Certain people would be told and the decision to leave was up to them. Others would not be told since we know them and it would have opened a whole new can of worms we didn't want or need to deal with at that time. My older son and family who lives in the fallout path east of Texas City-Houston area agreed to come to the RP. My two middle kids, 18 year old daughter and 23 year old son, live close to us and after some discussion they also agreed to go. I left the decision up to them since they are of age. Our 16 year old son didn't have a choice. The good thing about all these family members is that they are mostly on board with the survival mindset and are aware of what is happening in the world around them. I couldn't imagine the stress if they weren't. Two survival friends were also informed, however, they decided they would shelter in place if the balloon went up. We wished each other the best of luck. The previous Christmas I had given my middle kids Bug Out Bags or B.O.B.s as they are always referred to. I got lots of strange looks from them but they smiled and made me feel good. Two weeks before the Bug Out and before the articles at Arcticbeacon.com I was getting this uneasy feeling that they needed to have their B.O.B.s accessible and ready to go. Of course the B.O.B.s weren't ready so I badgered them until they put them back together. It took them a week. They were ready when I called them about the Bug Out. They did really well. We decided that a little "white lie" would be used on our employers and schools. A family illness/emergency had happened to my parents and we have to go to see them . It could possibly be a week but we're not sure. Not very original but effective. I know it was wrong to do this, however, for the OPSEC of the bug out it was needed. This did come back to haunt my middle son. When he had gotten back from the bug out he was fired from his job. Two edged sword. He has since landed another job. This is something that everyone will have to consider for their bug out plan and whether it is a GRID-UP or GRID-DOWN bug out. Both of which are going to be totally different.
PRE-POSITIONING of SUPPLIES--We decided it was time to preposition as many supplies as possible during this time. We took most of our storage food, 1/2 of our MRE's, 3/4 of our ammo (in military ammo cans), two rifles in cosmolene, medical supplies, 3/4 of our vitamins, miscellaneous fuels (butane, kerosene and lamp oil), shelves, all the camping equipment, reference books, extra clothes and shoes, miscellaneous house supplies, extra garden tools, TA-1 field phones and wire, kerosene heater, 3/4 of our candles and lamps and about 1/2 of our seeds. Other items we brought but didn't put into storage was 40 gallons of treated gasoline (get the military gas cans not the plastic ones they aren't as tough), 30 gallons of drinking water, generator, 2 cycle weed eater, 2 cycle chain saw with extras, 2 cycle oil, two tubs of power tools and hand tools (with nails and screws), all my rifles and pistols with mags and ammo. cleaning kits and tools, weapons spare parts, 4 cases of bottled water and several food tubs. We really like those plastic tubs. To help in this effort we rented a 6' x 12' covered trailer. It took us a while to get it because they only had one attendant . If your going this route to transport stuff make sure you have a proper hitch (class 1, 2or3) and electrical hook ups. It makes it that much easier and saves time. Time you might not have. One other suggestion, buy a covered trailer (all metal/aluminum). Remember, it has to be sized for your vehicles towing capacity. Also paint it a subdued color. The orange and white of the trailer we had really sticks out. You don't want people to see what you have and covering with a tarp doesn't hide everything and you can't lock it up. Anyway, when we got there we were the only customer, however, by the time we left there were 10 customers waiting (it took them 30 min). I tried to imagine how it would be if the balloon had already gone up and everyone was freaking out. Since our RP is 30 minutes from the retreat and that we still don't have a storage barn built on the retreat we rented a storage shed closer to our RP. All of our supplies were put into the storage shed. More items will be put there in the very near future
CONVOY-- For the purpose of this report I will call my convoy Group 1 (Chevy 4WD with camper top and trailer, Ford Windstar and Ford Explorer (4WD) and my oldest son from down south Group 2 (Dodge mini van). Group 1 was on the road by 11 a.m. Monday, January 30 like we had planned. The trip to the RP should take 4 hours. My middle son and daughter in his van, my wife in her SUV and my step-son and I in my truck/trailer. We used FRS radios to communicate with each other. It was good practice for everyone. We had cell phones but they aren't as handy for close communication. We had plenty of batteries for all the radios with lots of spares. Rechargeable batteries with a solar charger will be used next time. The cell phone came in handy when calling Group 2 for progress updates. I had split some of the rifles and pistols between the 3 vehicles. At the current time we traveled on "Condition yellow". This meant all weapons were in their gun case or gun rug, locked and unloaded. If the balloon had gone up while we were on the road we would have gone to "Condition Red" and we would have locked and loaded. I don't think the MZBs (mad zombie bikers) would have been out yet, however, you never know. As an acquaintance once told me "better safe than sorry". Group 2 had no firearms and this greatly concerned me and there was nothing I could do about it. We prayed nothing would happen and that they would arrive at the RP safe. They arrived safe, in fact beating us to the RP. Now, driving with the trailer was ok but it liked to skittle around a bit. Anyone who has pulled a trailer knows this. I could only travel between 55 and 65 mph. So Group 1 had to basically go as fast as me. Or, you're only as fast as your slowest member. The trip took us 6 hours -vs.-the regular 4 hours. I believe that is because when you add more vehicles and people you will stop more often for eating, bathroom breaks, etc. Group 1 followed the primary route. This was all done on major highways through cities and towns. These are also choke points if something were to happen. I had two other routes picked out. These would have taken a lot longer but would be safer than the major refugee routes. My mistake was I only had one set of maps. I will make map sets for everyone here real soon. We also had $1,000 in cash and our barter silver. We also brought our house, property, vehicle and personal papers along in a fire proof safe. Very good things to have to prove ownership etc. later on.
BUG OUT GEAR-- Everyone in Group 1 one had their own B.O.B.s. Ours are equipped for less than a week. Along with the B.O.Bs three of us had our combat loads. These were kept close to us in the vehicles. Group 2 had no B.O.B.s or combat loads. My older son is working to put his families together.
WEAPONS and TARGET SHOOTING-- We went to the retreat to get some target shooting in. I also wanted to see how the rifles (FAL, AKs, SKS, AR-180B, M1 Carbine), ammo and mags worked with sustained fire. I have to take 2 rifles to the gunsmith for adjustment. Also found out that the 20 round detachable SKS mags I had don't work well. The only ones that did work were the original 10 round mag and 5 round detachable mags. I also spent quality time with my sons about rifle and pistol function and safety. I covered proper sight picture while acquiring targets. Everyone did well. Shot a lot of ammo.
TIME TO GO HOME-- If nothingÒhad happened by Saturday, February 4th we had decided that day would be the day we would all head back to our homes and lives. So Saturday morning we all loaded up the vehicles and said our good-byes (hugs and kisses). The trip back for Group 1 seemed to go faster. Group 2 made it back in the same amount of time it took to get there. Everyone got home safe and sound.
IN CONCLUSION--We stayed a week at the RP (hotel).The plan was, if the balloon went up, to stay there as long as the credit card would last. We would than go and gather up the supplies from the storage shed and move out to the property and set up camp. In hindsight I don't think that was the best of plans, however, at the time it was the only plan. Now that we have pre-positioned supplies, we will go straight to the retreat. Hopefully the Powers That Be will hold off long enough so we can get the storage building built on the retreat and then the house.
I found that our Bug Out was good for the following reasons: Got to spend a lot of quality time with the grandkids. We all got to spend qualitt time with each other (kind of a mini family reunion). Pre-positioning of supclies at the now RP #2. The retreat is now RP #1. Reduced our bug out time. Everyone knows how to get to RP #1 & 2. Still need to make maps for all. Answered some of my own question and concerns about my firearms. Need to get more military metal gas cans. Had good weapons familiarization "training" with most of the shooters in the family. The women didn't shoot. They spent time visiting neighbors. (We'll work on the shooting later). Dealt with some retreat issues that really needed dealing with. "Better safe than sorry" is great, however, it seemed like a toss up at times. Second guessing myself caused some hesitation about bugging out. Just have to deal with that. Since everyone, except the children, knew this was a possible SHTF scenario everyone kept their cool and didn't scare the kiddies. Reinforced the thinking that children (babies and pre-teens) have to be really kept occupied during a bug out. Everyone has to chip in and help and they did. Even the teenagers (surprising). An adult(s) needs to be a cruise director for the bug out. The little toys, games etc we bought before the bug out paid off. It would have been a long week if we hadn't have maie some plans. Not everything worked out, so, have plan B, C, D…! This event has pushed us to get the storage shed built at the retreat ASAP. The emotional side of the bug out is very stressful for people. As I said before, have as much of your supplies tagged and know where it all will go in your bug out vehicles. Have a plan for the GRID -UP and GRID-DOWN bugout. Remember to eat well and drink lots of fluids. Don't forget to take your prescription meds if you have them. Try and get at least 30 days supply of prescription meds above your usual monthly supply. More if possible. I'm researching the homeopathic way for my prescription drugs.
OPSEC is very important. Everyone that is part of the bug out needs to understand this perfectly. If you have time before the bug out load your vehicles at night. If you have a garage, pull the back of the vehicle into the garage door and load from the privacy of the garage. Shop for the extra things you need anytime but load at night. Neighbors do watch what is going on and they will come ask questions. If they do just tell them your little "white lie". Just remember that the more "white lies " you use the harder it will be to keep up with them all. Making trips during the year will help as they will see this trip as nothing out of the norm. Wear civilian clothes. Don't wear camos. This will scare the neighbors seeing several people next door running around in camos. Plenty of time to change later if you really need to. Once we got to the RP we had informed other family that we were on a one week vacation with the grand kids and all. That really wasn't telling a "white lie." I'm writing this on February 14th which is way after the fact and nothing has blown up and no one is glowing…yet. Thank God it was a false alarm this time. Everyone made it home safe and sound. The financial cost of this bug out was substantial. I won't discuss it here because it can really vary per individual or group. All in all it was money well spent and the lessons learned are priceless.---Sunday February 26 2006 The "Field Kit" Approach for Organization, Preparedness, and Survival, by Christian Souljer
When trouble comes and you are required to re-locate, there may not be time to try to find, organize and then pack your emergency gear. Just the stress of an emergency situation alone can keep you from thinking clearly enough to gather and pack all you might need. Getting your gear ready in advance can minimize this problem. Over the years I have developed a system in which I assemble "Field Kits" for my outdoor and emergency equipment and supplies. This allows me to keep my stuff organized and ready for future use. I assemble the kits with items needed and then I inventory the contents and I keep a copy on file as well as a copy in the kit. That way I know what I have in there two years down the road and I also know if any of the contents have a shelf life – they have been dated and a periodic inspection of the list allows you to know if an item (such as Aspirin) should be replaced or not. In the following paragraphs I will share my experience with building and using these kits including the number of years that I have employed each different kit.
I have assembled and used the following special purpose kits as described in the following paragraphs:
Bug Out Bag (BOB): I won't write much detail about this type of kit because most of you know about these. (If not, do a Google search to get good contents lists etc., ) I use mostly backpacks for this purpose rather than a shoulder bag because I know if I have to carry the kit very far - a backpack is going to be much less fatiguing on my body than carrying the weight in my hands or on one shoulder or the other. I have a BOB backpack for everyone in my household, plus a few smaller spares. One thing I would recommend here though is to have an essentials kit within the larger full kit. For an example, a small pack inside the main compartment or attached to the outside of the large pack. (JWR recommends this.) In my main Emergency Backpack – I have a small but rigid Italian military pack that can be slid right out the top in the case that I am injured and can't carry the large pack or if I am escaping some danger but have to move fast uphill – I can pull the little pack out and go. The little pack has all the essentials: plastic tarp, fire starters, water, a little food, flashlight, rope, compass, knife and so on. (I made my first "survival kit" as a Boy Scout in the 1970s, but this mentioned pack has been in place since 1993. I have field tested the overall pack.)
Rifle Kit: The rifle kit is a kit made specifically for a certain rifle. It can contain 6-to-12 spare magazines, spare parts, and cleaning kit, gun oil and lubes, and perhaps 140 to 300 rounds of ammunition that that rifle is sighted in for. These are usually made from the common "mini-range bags" that have 6 magazine pouch pockets on the outer sides, and has both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. They can be purchased for as little as $7.95. I buy the black or O.D. green colored bags. (Used these since 1998) [JWR Adds: For these kits (rifle of shotgun accessories) I recommend that you use duffle bag that is big enough to accommodate a full set of web gear--complete with belt, suspenders or vest (LC-1, MOLLE, or perhaps set of the nice Tactical Tailor type suspenders if you have a big budget), magazine pouches, and and canteen for each long gun. IMHO no long gun is truly tactically functional unless you have a proper set of web gear--full of magazines--to go with it.]
Pistol Kit: The pistol kit is similar to the rifle kit – being made specifically for a certain pistol. It can contain 6-to-10 spare magazines, spare parts, and cleaning kit, and perhaps 100 to 300 rounds of ammunition that is known to work well in that pistol. These are made up from the same common 6 magazine pouch "mini-range bags" that have both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. (Used since 1998)
Rifle Range Kits: When heading to the rifle range, I take two kits I have prepared for that purpose. One is a toolbox, which holds most of my gun cleaning supplies and a few tools for adjusting sights, and for small repairs at the range. The second Range Kit is a shoulder bag, which holds all my paper targets, a stapler, and spare staples for mounting targets. It also holds my foam earplugs and my hearing protector headsets, range notepad/log, pens, and so on. Add your rifle, ammo and some lunch and you are ready for a day at the range. (Used since 1990)
Auto Kits: For my vehicles, I maintain multiple kits: (1) Emergency Road Kit in medium large Tupperware tub – jumper cables, flares, mechanics suit, space blanket, flashlight, etc. (2) In another medium large Tupperware tub is my Spare Parts and Repair Kit including hoses, belts, bulbs, fuses, radiator sealant, tire repair plug kit with spark plug adapter hose to fill tires, distributor cap and rotor. And for my 4WD I might include a spare water pump, alternator, starter and fuel pump. (3) A full tool set in a heavy-duty box. (4) Field Tool Kit - in my 1/2 ton 4-wheel drive Suburban I have made an additional long wood box (approximately 70" long, x 8" wide, x 17" high), which has small wheels on one end and a heavy duty cargo handle on the other end. It is tall but narrow and can hold all my field tools which include my high-lift jack, 1 or 2 come-alongs, 2 shovels, an ax, a hatchet, backpacking snow shovel, crowbar, tow strap, and large and small bow saws with extra blades. The top is held on with a window type latch on both hands and once the handle end is released the lid comes right off. You can pull a shovel from out the top or roll the box to the edge of the tailgate and set it on the ground. The wheels allow for you to roll the box all the way to the end of the tailgate before lifting out and you can also roll it across smooth ground for a short distance. This box is stained wood and coated with a sealer to minimize weather effects. (5) The Tire Chains Kit can be kept in a separate kit - a wooden box, plastic crate or in heavy canvas bags. Keep your chain tension devices in with the chains as well. (Parts of this kit used since 1992, but the wooden field box was built and employed in fall of 2005)
Chain Saw Kits: My chainsaw kit is two parts, the first being a chainsaw case with my saw, chain oil, 2-stroke oil, and funnel, spare spark plugs and tools. The second part is another Tupperware tub with pre-mixed fuel can, extra 2-stroke oil, and a large container of chain oil, heavy gloves and hearing protectors. I have not purchased extra chains or bars yet but they are on my purchase list and will be added to one of these two kits in the near future. (Used since 2004) [JWR Adds: I also strongly recommend buying a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps.]
Financial and Personal Papers Kit: This kit is composed of a medium-small fanny pack, which includes identification, passporte contact information (phone lists, account information), and some pre-1965 90% silver coins for emergency purchases or bartering. Also tucked into this little fanny pack are a "P-38" [key ring type] can opener, a small lightweight Gerber pocketknife, butane lighter and a small flashlight. For those that are so inclined, you can add other items such as precious metals, cash, a small pistol or whatever else will fit and you are willing to legally carry. (Used since 1998)
First Aid Kits: My first aid kits are in many sizes. I have the mini-kits in all the backpacks, and then I have some Auto Size kits in the vehicles, then a field medic's medium, shoulder carry kit for field use. Then, the mega-kit that has all the extra supplies, field medical books and extra medicines in it. This is a large gym bag sized bag which is red in color. I also have a yellow and purple (magenta) bag of the same size, which holds my chemical masks, extra filters, potassium iodide, gloves, shoe covers, and wipes, etc. for chemical or nuclear emergencies. (I've had these kits in place since 1999) Winter Survival Kit: This kit is added to the vehicles that I am driving during the winter and it is a "per-person" type kit. I include insulated over-pants (or insulated coveralls) with leg zippers, incase you have to do some work outside or walk in the cold weather beyond what you would be comfortable without long johns. A sleeping bag, a heavy wool blanket, a stocking cap, heavy work gloves with liners, a lofty poly-pro pullover, and a heavy coat or parka. Along with the extra clothing here, a sleeping pad, tarp or tent, and some field foods (two MREs, a can or two of mixed nuts, a few power bars, some chocolate bars, a large bottle of Gatorade and a gallon of water) are added to this kit. (Used since 1998)
Communications /Electronics (GPS) kit: This kit is composed of the small size (.30 caliber) ammo cans which are used singularly by themselves or if two cans are used they can be tucked inside a heavy outdoor carry bag with shoulder strap. Inside the ammo cans I keep my FRS radios, a portable CB radio, headsets, operating manuals and fresh extra batteries. I also keep my GPS and 12 VDC auto adapter in the cans when not in use. This kit is carried in my vehicle on camping and hunting expeditions or other field trips. In addition, in the very large size ammo cans (measures approximately 15" x 10" x 25"), I have my spare CB radios, and other electronic equipment [to provide them protection from EMP. The large cans I keep in the garage and they are grounded to an outdoor water pipe since they are stationary. (Used since 1999)
Fire Starting Kit: This kit can be as simple as a small cardboard box, which has enough dry tinder in a heavy duty zip-lock bag to start a fire in bad /wet weather. Included here should be some homemade or commercial fire starters, candles, safety-flares, etc, (I will save the details for another article). I keep my fire starting kit with my camping stuff and pack it in with my gear for the late fall hunting trips. (Used since 1986)
Camp Kitchen Kit: The Camp Kitchen Kit is a ready to go complete kitchen other than the food and it's all packed into one box. It has stainless eating utensils (silverware) for 10 people. Over several years I found a number of stainless steel pots of slightly different sizes that will all fit together into one stack in my plastic kitchen box with folding lids. I also have a plastic pitcher, which I fill with the silverware, plastic re-usable plates, cups and bowls. I have a small grill to place over rocks, a coffee pot, several large serving spoons, spatulas, and kitchen knives. I have a roll of heavy duty aluminum foil, plastic wrap, half gallon baggies, and a whole box of strike anywhere matches, a long neck lighter, bar soap, a small bottle of dish soap, wash cloth, hand towel, and steel wool and copper scrub pads. Salt, pepper and other spices are included along with paper towels, coffee filters and about 60 paper plates. All of this fits nicely into my heavy-duty plastic kitchen box. (Used since 1988) I have a second box, which goes on some excursions – this kit has a large Dutch oven with lid, a lid lifting handle, a cast iron skillet and a manual coffee grinder. I keep at least two bags of charcoal (and some lighter fluid) on hand for the Dutch oven. (Used since 2003)
Notes on Kitchen Kits: Medium to large metal cups can be used for coffee, soup or whatever and can be kept warm by placing them on the campfire rocks or on the edge of your cook stove. It's nice to keep your food and drink hot in cold weather! Some real decent outdoor cookware such as stainless pots and pans, utensils etc, can be purchased for very little money at a thrift store. I once had to buy some of these items when I went on an "emergency field trip" and realized in the rush that I had not gotten any cookware packed. I stopped in a small town and picked up all I needed for less than $3.00. Most of that stuff is now in one of two permanent kits.
Field Food Kit: It is a good thing to always have some fresh camping type foods ready in a box for a quick field trip. This can be the usual soup, chili, canned meats, rice, beans, noodles, MREs, and freeze dried food. Add to this power bars, Gatorade, and whatever else you prefer for quick field meals. (Used since 2003)
Stove and Lantern Kits: I purchased a propane adapter for my Coleman fuel stove and I keep both the adapter and the fuel tank with the stove to burn whichever is available. I can fit at least one propane bottle inside the stove when it is stored. I also keep spare mantles, and generators inside my Coleman stove and lantern boxes along with good quality strike any ware matches. And I store my stove and lanterns with fresh fuel in them so that they are ready to go right out of the box. That way when I arrive at camp in the dark, I can produce some light, or cook some food without having to refill first. I have not had any leakage problems in the 10+ years I have used this practice. Also, I never store (put away after a trip) a lantern with bad mantles, but rather put new replacements on if they need it before storage, but I don't burn them in until I get into the field. (Used since 1995)
Fishing Kit: Mainly for organization – I keep most of my fishing gear in one large rubberized bag which is camo'd and is designed for holding duck and geese decoys. It has the usual handles and H.D. shoulder strap. I keep my fishing tackle boxes, gill nets, folding fishing rod/reel, and all my spare fishing gear in the bag except for the full size rods. The fishing rods are kept in an overhead rod holder (nice and out of the way). Of course I have some mini fishing kits/nets in my survival kits. (Used since 2004)
Hunting Kit: My Hunting Kit consists of a camouflage bag which holds hunting maps, game regulations, game calls, safety equipment like orange vests/hats, game bags, animal scale, game scents, and other things needed for hunting that are not included in the other kits. (Used since 1987)
Shelter /Camp Kits: In a GI duffle bag with shoulder straps I keep a full size camping tent, all of its poles and stakes, and some rope. I have a dedicated "ground cloth" tarp, which I keep with this duffle bag. In a second very large bag I keep most of my folded tarps of various sizes. I also keep most of my remaining rope in this big bag in two different large zip lock bags. In addition, I have a camp "outhouse kit" which is a regular home toilet seat mounted on an aluminum folding camp chair frame, along with a large tarp setup and more rope. (Used since 1996)
Personal Gear Kit: My Personal Gear Kit is a medium small bag sized to fit on the front seat of my Chevy Suburban. In it I keep the stuff that I want handy there and also things I might put into my pockets when walking into the woods but stuff I don't want to carry on my person through the evening once back in camp. Things like a GPS, FRS radio, Binoculars, Range finder, gloves, sunglasses and other personal gear that you probably won't need in camp. This bag keeps my front seat more organized during road trips too. (Used since 2004)
Packing and Storing Your Kits: Remember to inventory your kits as you make them. Keep duplicate contents lists on file, and label your kits well. In addition to my personal color-coding systems, I attach tags or in many cases I just make a label from 1-inch masking tape describing the type of kit and attach it to the box or to the shoulder strap of the kit. I affix the labels to either the end or side of the box, and also on the top of the box so that no matter how it is stored on a shelf – I can see one or both labels and I know what kit that is. If I am not sure what is in the kit - I just have to check the inventory sheet to verify the contents. As JWR and others have mentioned – it is an excellent exercise to try packing your emergency equipment into your escape vehicle. This will help you learn two things, first – how to pack it most efficiently and second to know how much your vehicle(s), trailer, or whatever you are planning to use will carry. [JWR Adds: It is crucial that you pre-position the majority of your gear at your intended retreat, since you may only have one trip outta Dodge!] For packing your gear into your vehicles, it is good to find containers (boxes, bags) that will pack well together. For the larger kits, I usually use stackable boxes that together are a little shorter than the height of my SUV. Then I pack the smaller and softer gear around them. Conclusion: Once you have made your kits, test them in the field. Make sure they work, and that they have what you need, but not a bunch of stuff you will never use. Having your equipment "kitted up" and ready to go will help you to be ready when the big event hits. Whether it is a tsunami, an earthquake, an economic collapse or a full scale invasion by foreign troops – you'll be ready, and this preparation will give you some peace of mind knowing that you are much more ready that the average Joe. Once your done, help a neighbor and a friend build a kit. Be Prepared, - Christian Souljer, Pacific Northwest
JWR Adds: I greatly appreciate you sharing your experience and insights. It goes without saying that it is important to rotate the perishable items in your various kits regularly. In particular: food items, batteries, some first aid supplies, and chemical light sticks. Permalink Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Advantages and Disadvantages of New Zealand Tuesday February 21 2006 Letter From Mr. Bravo Re: Money Belts, Large Bills, and Gold for the Grid-Up Bugout Bag Jim, I don't know how recognized a Euro note would be in a U.S. crisis, especially the premium of the dollar. ("Funny money" may even be assumed to be devalued, as if Canadian.)
The real concern about large Euro notes is that of presumed counterfeiting. A British friend recently told me that 500 Euro notes are essentially not legal tender for most commercial transactions, due to widespread counterfeiting suspicions. You can take them to a bank, but that is about it.
-----Sunday February 19 2006 Hurricane Katrina -- A First Hand Bugout Account from August 2005 The following anonymously-posted account is re-posted with permission from Mel's Riser's "My Solar Village" blog (http://mysolarvillage.blogspot.com.) Some of you might find this account is eerily reminiscent of my novel Patriots:
The craziest thing about the whole Katrina fiasco was that my father in law (technically he's just my girlfriend's dad, but we've been together long enough that this is what we call him.) I always make fun of him because he keeps his garage stocked with something like 100 gallons of water, a bunch of big jugs full of treated gasoline, food, etc. He also owns quite a few guns. So I picked on him a lot for being borderline nuts even though he's fairly normal. So when Katrina rolled around I ended up evacuating with them since the woman wanted to be with her parents. It took us 35 hours of nonstop driving to drive to Dallas. It's usually a four hour drive or so. About twelve hours or so in you had to drive around a car that had run out of fuel every fifty feet or less. They were everywhere. It was hot, too, and we saw hundreds of families standing on the side of the road sweating. A lot had infants and little kids. Even if you somehow did find a gas station that wasn't sold out of gasoline (probably 9 out of 10 were sold out) the line was literally miles long. About 20 hours in, or a little over halfway to Dallas, we noticed the convenience stores were being looted. The people busted out the windows (we didn't see who, but they were busted out) and we saw people coming out with any drink they could find. It was pretty much chaos. There was one cop on the scene and he wouldn't get out of his car. He just sat across his street with his lights swirling and people ignored him. By this time there were so many cars broken down that we spent a lot of our time driving off road. We had a big tarp on the back of the truck with all the gasoline but we were forced to fuel up in front of people. We had enough fuel to fill up our two vehicles three times which turned out to be just enough to get us to Dallas. As we were fueling up crowds of not-so-nice looking folks with empty gas tanks were staring us down. We gave one guy five gallons of fuel because he had two little kids. We were approached the second time we fueled up on the side of the road by a pissed-off bunch of people asking for gas. We told them we needed it. They didn't care obviously. One younger guy went towards the back of the truck and said something like "I'm taking one, call the f**king police if you want." and my father in law had to use his pistol to convince the guy otherwise. We were then standing there, funnel in the truck, me trying to pour gas in, him with a pistol in his hand, my girlfriend and her mom crying, and all of the gas-thief's buddies looking real tough. He just stood there like some sort of tough-guy a**hole. I got the cap back on the jug and we got out of there with our nerves really frazzled. I kept my pistol loaded after that. We went through a LOT of water. It was really pretty hot out there. I slept in little two or three minute bursts when traffic was stopped which it almost always was. Sit for a few minutes, move ten feet. Repeat a thousand f**king times. My leg actually cramped up from break/accelerate/breaking so many times and I had to pull over. This happened to pretty much all of us. It sounds melodramatic but driving actually f**king hurt at that point. To save on fuel I didn't run my air conditioner so I was also sweating the whole time but we thankfully had a lot of water. At close to 30 hours people got fed up with the traffic and we started seeing cars zipping past us on the southbound side of the freeway, heading north the wrong way. There were still quite a few emergency vehicles heading south so this was a dangerous idea. It didn't take long until hundreds of people switched to the other lane and headed northbound on it. A half mile or so up we saw the first head on collision. A family headed north had struck a police cruiser heading south at the crest of a hill. They'd never seen each other until the last second, I guess. We saw a lot of these accidents. The swarm beat the police,though, and we were out in nowhere, Texas anyway so there probably weren't that many police to respond. Eventually the entire southbound lane was just as clogged as the northbound. More so, really, because there were the head-on accidents. The police couldn't go south or north now so it was a kind of weird feeling of being on your own. So many people were broken down now that you had to swerve not to just hit the people who were out lingering. They had nowhere to go. Our big tarp-covered pickup drew a lot of eyes, too. We again had to fill up in front of hundreds of people. He again had to use his pistol as a friendly reminder that we didn't wish to be robbed. He never actually pointed it at anybody, he just took it out and held it as a reminder. People just stared at us with hate. I can't blame them, I guess. But he was watching out for his wife and daughter and I was watching out for her as well. Most people would do the same. Permalink Letter Re: Hyperinflation in Serbia and Zimbabwe |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:Saturday February 18 2006David in Israel on the Grid-Up Bugout Bag
Grid-up bugouts of the non-universal TEOTWAWKI type (more like Hurricane Katrina) allow you to take advantage of modern infrastructure even if you have limited means. If your escape happens during a time where resources allow a hotel may be a better choice for those who have lost their primary residence (rural or urban) and do not have a fallback location yet. In the event of a major power outage the cellular infrastructure has several days of generator power at each tower so the ease and reliability of mobile telephony may have advantages over ham radio for contacting family. In unaffected areas ragged dirty survivors and strange vehicles may be treated with suspicion a good appearance is key when interacting in normal areas. The following are some things to consider for your Bug Out Bag (BOB) -- also known as a Get Out Of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) pack: Cellular Telephone: Think about getting a plan that includes Internet make sure that your phone supports Bluetooth or IR, a data cable which works with your computer will also work. I suggest having a paid up prepaid SIMM chip taped in the battery cover purchased cash from a convenience store in case you need to switch phone numbers. A 1-800 type calling card for pay phones is a very useful tool. PDA or Laptop:Having access to web information has clear advantages, make sure you have car charger if in a vehicle. If in a pack PDA with a keyboard makes more sense wi-fi or cellular telephone connection will get you online. Chargers:Both a AA/AAA/9V battery charger and power cables for your gadgets keep you going, A crank charger is an excellent idea especially for your cellular telephone. Immersion Boiler:Available worldwide (both 120 and 220 VAC models) this small tool will heat water to boiling quickly or heat a bucket of water to bath/washing temperature in about ten minutes. Washing:A flat universal sink/tub stopper and a lighter bungee type clothesline are all you need to keep your clothing presentable if you must interact with the otherwise normal world. Dish soap works very well for hand washing. Vehicle "Camouflage":A standard [loose fitting] car cover often has the power to make your car somewhat invisible, in a suburban/urban neighborhood especially in sunnier areas these are more common. Most important is that it makes the vehicle anonymous even if you need to sleep inside you are mostly protected from security or police or neighbors shining the vehicle at night. Documents:A USB type keychain drive [commonly called a "thumb drive" or "stick"] allows access to your files, even in a library. Reduced size hard and scan copies in a double ziplock of marriage, military, birth, home and vehicle titles, education docs, certifications, licenses, resumes, previous employer and finance info are high on the list of docs to have. Computer files can also be stored on email or file storage sites. Money: If possible have duplicate ATM/debit cards as well as credit cards in your BOB. Several hundred dollars in mixed bills cash several sealed opaque pouches is a good idea too. Meals: Eating out at restaurants may be convenient but is a terrible waste of cash unless Uncle Sam is picking up the tab. Cook using your immersion boiler or in the coffee maker provided with most rooms many recipes are available on the net, avoid the temptation to use a liquid fuel stove inside for obvious safety reasons. [JWR Adds:] The majority of your cash should be carried in a money belt, especially if think that you might end up in a public shelter. You will probably want the majority of it in the most compact form available--large denomination bills. Here in the U.S., we are unfortunately limited to $100 bills--the largest denomination in circulation. However, in Canada C$500 bills are still in circulation, and in Europe there are EU500 bills. Both of those take a little searching to procure, but are generally available without paying a premium.] About money, if you become displaced you likely will have a very high cash burn rate as well as loss of work income all add stress especially if you have family worries included. A single male may find shelter in a youth hostel or less secure in a low rent hotel. Both options leave you wide open to loss of your gear to theft. Keep your vehicle in mind as a shelter. A much better idea is to be in contact with your particular religious community in the place you are staying and be placed with a family. This, or a real hotel are the most viable options open to a displaced family. Permalink Letter Re: Defensive Shotguns on a Budget |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:Tuesday February 7 2006 Letter Re: David in Israel on Fire StartingMr. Rawles:David from Israel wrote in with some interesting suggestions on fire starting. The method that I use in severe weather conditions is to first dig a small hole, about 6 inches in diameter and about 8 inches deep. Facing into the wind, I dig a small channel into the side of the hole, about 2 or 3 inches wide and sloping up from the bottom of the small hole, about 6 inches long. Then I put tinder in the pit and arrange short twigs around the tinder so that the twigs look like a teepee. To make tinder you can use cotton balls dipped in paraffin wax, or take a small block of resinous wood such as yellow pine and cut slivers and shavings off of it, then cut the block making slivers still attached to the block. You can also use straw or dry grass for tinder - if the grass on top is wet usually you can find dry grass below. I cover the circular hole with twigs and tinder, leaving the channel open, and then put small (1 inch diameter) sticks on top arranged ends inward, in a circle. If the wind is blowing hard, it's a good idea to make a windbreak so that the hole does not have wind blowing directly into it. Sticks, grass, and rocks make a good windbreak - place it about a foot away from the hole. Now take a match and strike it in the channel and put the flame on the tinder, or take a piece of flint and rub it against a piece of steel to produce sparks and make sure they land on the tinder. You'll see the tinder catch, and then blow carefully on the tinder so as not to put it out. It takes a bit of practice, so try this when your life doesn't depend on it (surely people camped out when they were growing up and know about all this?) When you see a flame, put sticks and dry grass in the channel, and soon you will have a good fire. I used this method to start a fire in a blizzard where the snow was blowing straight across (and made a six-inch layer on my sleeping bag in the morning) and the fire was really hot, but there was still six inches of ice around the fire, then snow. BTW, if you want to sleep soundly in such a situation, make sure your head is covered. - H.L. Permalink Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Using Checklists as a Retreat Planning Tool ----With typical backpacking gear you might have: 5 lbs. pack 3 lbs. sleeping bag 5 lbs. tent 2 lbs. stove, fuel and pot 1 lb sleeping padThe five heaviest items adds up to 16 lbs. My ultra-light gear: 16 oz. pack 21 oz. down top bag (sleeping bag without bottom) 8 oz. silnylon 8x10 tarp7 oz. electric draft wood burning stove* 4 oz. aluminum pot and lid 9 oz. Ridgerest sleeping pad * This is a custom made item. Alcohol or Trioxane stoves are more readily available. The same items add up to 4 lbs.,1 oz. This is less than the weight of a typical empty backpack. With ultra light gear it is relatively easy to keep your pack weight, minus food and water, less than 10 lbs. With a total pack weight less than 20 lbs it is possible to walk briskly for long periods of time. Do you regularly travel with 30 to 40 lbs on your back? Add any weapons to your pack and the weight goes up dramatically. A difficult situation is not the time to practice being a beast of burden. In addition, a heavy load will have an impact on your ability to respond to confrontations or emergencies. You should include an ultra-light BOB in your vehicle kit.
---end of 28goodc.txt clips for print.-- next is 6-12-08:new related? stuff: alpha.txt the alpha-statagy:how the money-system itself is used to rob and control people...cross.txt:underground churches in china: are part of a DVD series called "The Cross - Jesus in China." ---dino.txt:creation-science reports kent-hovin---ice.txt:iceagenow.com global-freezing reports---jobs.txt:craigslist.org A Second Income--A Key Goal for Family Preparedness:for the ranch. The family was easily able to feed itself, but despite their best efforts, chunk after chunk of the ranch was taken over by the county and the bankers for unpaid taxes and unpaid agricultural loans, between 1932 and 1942. By the time that the economy started to recover during World War II, the ranch was down to only about 800 acres.
Successful home-based businesses usually center around: unfilled needs. In a rural area, that is easy. Just ask your neighbors: Is there anything that you buy or rent, or service that you "hire" on a regular basis that currently requires a 40+ mile drive "to town"? Those are your potential niches.
A successful recession-proof home-based business is likely to be one where the demand for your goods and services is consistent--even in a weak economy. These include septic tank pumping, home security/locksmithing, care fore the very young and the very old, and escapist diversions such as DVD movie rentals. (It is noteworthy that the movie industry was was one of the few sectors of the economy that prospered in the 1930s.)
Another category of business that prospered in the 1930s was repair businesses. Obviously, in hard economic times, people try to make do with what they have. So repair businesses are a natural. If there is some small appliance that you could repair that could be mailed from and back to the customer, so much the better. (That way you could have a nationwide business, rather than just a local one.) This might include: DVD player repair, laptop computer repair, and so forth.
Another category is second-hand stores. People on tight budgets will be actively looking for sccond-hand goods, rather than buy new items. A second-hand book store in a medium-sized town might do just fine in a depression.
Yet another approach, for those with mechanical aptitude and don't mind strenuous outdoor work: Own one or more useful pieces of fairly expensive machinery that a lot of people need to rent (or hire the services of ) on a fairly regular basis, but that are expensive enough that they cannot justify buying one for themselves. Typically, this is a piece of machinery that sells for $2,000 to $20,000 that you can "hire out" (a horse talent?)---get liability insurance started before you officially launch your business. Then it is simple enough to advertise your services on the Internet, through your local chamber of commerce, and post flyers at the local feed store and supermarket. You can "scale" the size of your second business (read: how busy you'll be) by setting your prices. If you want a lot of "hours", then price it low. If you are getting too much work, then just start raising your rates---buiness-cards are nice...but finding your naybors neeeds is direct.---lion.txt:buddist:all is your dream...more real than Hell---pers.txt:My young father was part of the "Hjemme Fronten" (the Home Front) -- an underground army of loyal Norwegians who would rather die than submit to Nazi tyranny. Caught helping other brave soldiers escape into neutral Sweden, he endured hunger, torture, and the threat of death in three concentration camps before his release at the end of the war. Through the years of oppression, we all learned to treasure our freedom.---friends became enemies---Nazi propaganda. Pausing by each display, I was startled by words that could so easily describe America today. The quotes brought stark reminders that---apart from God, human nature doesn't change with time. Nor do the aims of the spiritual mastermind behind the scenes who has always sought ways to stir hatred toward God's people. One tactic was simply to provide nice-sosunding alternatives to biblical loyalty and service.
"Individuals were urged to sacrifice themselves for a greater 'People's Community,'" announced one of the displays. Such slogans must have sounded good to the masses, for few saw the cruel manipulation behind the noble words.
I thought of President Clinton's calls for "sacrifice", "service, "unity", "common values", "civil society," and "safe" communities. How many people today see the ominous new meanings behind these nice sounding words?
Another display stated that-
"elementary schools became forums of public indoctrination.
"The Gestapo gathered much of its information from private citizens. Even children were taught to report on their parents. The Gestapo's main sources, however, were Nazi party officials. who constantly monitored the activities of all citizens [and] used such information to track political opponents."
If you have read our articles, you know that America's leaders are using intrusive surveys, assessments, and classroom encounter groups to persuade children to divulge private information about their family's faith, values, disciplines, and church attendance. As in Nazi Germany, socialization, not academic learning, has become the primary goal of education. Children are learning the group thinking and socialist values needed for the envisioned 21st century communities and global workforce.
Do you find this hard to believe? Many do. That's why we urge you to read some of our articles that document the "paradigm shift" from American individualism and freedom to collectivism and control. Just go to our "articles" page and find the following reports that will help you and your loved ones understand and prepare for the growing hostility toward biblical Christianity:
Clinton's War on Hate Bans Christian Values The Giver: Serving A Greater Whole The Enemy of The People? What Happened to Parents' Rights? The UN Plan For Global Control: A Report on Habitat II Local Agenda 21 - The U.N. Plan for Your Community The Nazi Model For Outcome-Based Education A National Information System: Executive Order #13011 Character Training For Global Citizenship Workforce Development Means Life-Long Indoctrination Remember, the new set of global values, based on a blend of earth-centered beliefs, socialist ideology, and globalist goals, rule out biblical boundaries and absolutes. Genuine Christianity simply won't fit.
Our political, legal and education systems have been infiltrated by leaders who have betrayed America for a hollow vision of a global village. Hollywood has taught our children to delight in evil, while schools immerse them in pagan rituals to other gods. Many church leaders are ashamed to mention sin and the cross, and most "Christians" are drifting with the trends, too distracted to know or care.
We shouldn't be surprised. Again and again, the Old Testament shows our natural inclination to drift toward apathy, compromise, rebellion, and paganism -- anything but God Himself. It's happening in America, and 1 Corinthians 10:1-11 tells us that we are not immune to consequences like those that destroyed ancient Israel. Did we forget?
God told us repeatedly what would happen to a nation that that refuses to ---apart from God, human nature doesn't change with time. Nor do the aims of the spiritual mastermind behind the scenes who has always sought ways to stir hatred toward God's people. One tactic was simply to provide nice-sosunding alternatives to biblical loyalty and service.
"Individuals were urged to sacrifice themselves for a greater 'People's Community,'" announced one of the displays. Such slogans must have sounded good to the masses, for few saw the cruel manipulation behind the noble words.
I thought of President Clinton's calls for "sacrifice", "service, "unity", "common values", "civil society," and "safe" communities. How many people today see the ominous new meanings behind these nice sounding words?
Another display stated that-"elementary schools became forums of public indoctrination"
"The Gestapo gathered much of its information from private citizens. Even children were taught to report on their parents. The Gestapo's main sources, however, were Nazi party officials. who constantly monitored the activities of all citizens [and] used such information to track political opponents."
If you have read our articles, you know that America's leaders are using intrusive surveys, assessments, and classroom encounter groups to persuade children to divulge private information about their family's faith, values, disciplines, and church attendance. As in Nazi Germany, socialization, not academic learning, has become the primary goal of education. Children are learning the group thinking and socialist values needed for the envisioned 21st century communities and global workforce.
Do you find this hard to believe? Many do. That's why we urge you to read some of our articles that document the "paradigm shift" from American individualism and freedom to collectivism and control. Just go to our "articles" page and find the following reports that will help you and your loved ones understand and prepare for the growing hostility toward biblical Christianity:
Clinton's War on Hate Bans Christian Values The Giver: Serving A Greater Whole The Enemy of The People? What Happened to Parents' Rights? The UN Plan For Global Control: A Report on Habitat II Local Agenda 21 - The U.N. Plan for Your Community The Nazi Model For Outcome-Based Education A National Information System: Executive Order #13011 Character Training For Global Citizenship Workforce Development Means Life-Long Indoctrination Remember, the new set of global values, based on a blend of earth-centered beliefs, socialist ideology, and globalist goals, rule out biblical boundaries and absolutes. Genuine Christianity simply won't fit.
Our political, legal and education systems have been infiltrated by leaders who have betrayed America for a hollow vision of a global village. Hollywood has taught our children to delight in evil, while schools immerse them in pagan rituals to other gods. Many church leaders are ashamed to mention sin and the cross, and most "Christians" are drifting with the trends, too distracted to know or care.
We shouldn't be surprised. Again and again, the Old Testament shows our natural inclination to drift toward apathy, compromise, rebellion, and paganism -- anything but God Himself. It's happening in America, and 1 Corinthians 10:1-11 tells us that we are not immune to consequences like those that destroyed ancient Israel. Did we forget? God told us repeatedly what would happen to a nation that that refuses to ---May they fill you with joy at the unspeakable privilege of serving our sovereign King, following in His footsteps, and sharing His resurrection life for all eternity. "Blessed are you when men hate you, and when they exclude you, and revile you, and cast out your name as evil, for the Son of Man's sake. Rejoice in that day and leap for joy! For indeed your reward is great in heaven." Luke 6:22-23---whp.txt:xanga.com\hypgnostic:love of war: passion of protecting The Tribe. where extreme terror and beauty meet at once. as long as we feel the need to defend our existance and vi for resources the "venusian" military exists--Drinking Watergeneral health info:
water quality tests:contaminants- Microbial (viruses, bacterias) cryptosporidium ; Inorganic (salts, metals) fluoride-4ppm, alpha,total?-0pci/L, barium-2ppm, copper-1.3ppm,,,; Pesticides and Herbicides; Volital Organic and Synthetic (by-products of industrial processes and petroleum production) trihalometahanes-80ppb, halocetic acids-60ppb ; Radioactive (some natuarlly occuring, some oil production adn mining activities; Residual Disinfectants (chlorine-4ppm, additives)......ppm(parts/million=one second in 11.5 days); pci/L(part/cubic inch /liter); ppb(parts/billion=one second in 31.7 years
decisions concerning your drinking water: Village council meetins, Public Service meetings, Village Halls Town Halls what you can do to help protect you aquifer: call dept of public utilities-# water system contacts: USEPA: # 18004264791-(drinking water hotline) FDA:# ground water sources- "aquifer(water rich zone)" as water travels over the surface of the land or through the ground, it dissolves naturally occuring minerals and in some cases radioactive material, substances from animal and human activity. sewage treatment plants, septic systems, agricultural livestock operations. urban storm water runoff, industrial or domestic wastewater discharges, oil and gas production, mining, or farming. gas stations. corrosion of household plumbing. by-products of drinking water chlorination, water additives used to control microbes.
well water-recycled water-rain barrel resource-resevior water-spring water-lake water-stream water-pond water- Low Susceptibility to Contamnation: --presence of thick protective layer of clay overlying the aguifer -- significant depth (70 to 80 feet below ground surface) of aquifer --no evidence of impact or significant levels of chemical contaminants from human activity and/or presence of potential contaminant sources in the protection area 1:43 PMTuesday, June 10, 2008---paused at 6-08\14b files:kief.txt:community. Kefirkraut is quite similar, but superior to traditional sauerkraut, I feel. The reason being that sauerkraut is traditionally prepared by the fermentation of fresh, shredded cabbage including seed spices such as juniper and caraway, and may include fresh herbs such as dill leaf, with the addition of 2% to 3% salt. In this case, common sauerkraut normally takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture.
On the opposite side of the chopping board however, kefirkraut is cultured with the addition of kefir grains incorporated as a starter-enhancer. This permits the culture-process to proceed more rapidly and without the use of any salt, or, only a small percentage of salt may be used, if desired. The culture-product can be tailor-cultured to suit personal preference of the Kefirkraut-Master. This unique method of incorporating kefir grains, influences a more rapid fermentation and as a result produces culture-vegetables with optimal nutritional value. Kefirkraut may be regarded as a vegetable-probiotic source, low in carbohydrates, rich in Lactobacilli, Yeasts, Vitamin U [only found in cabbage] and Vitamin C including some of the B group vitamins bio-synthesized by the friendly organisms native to kefir grains, and to fresh cabbage or other fresh vegetable ingredients that may be used in any given recipe.
The native microflora of cabbage is evident as a powdery white film, covering the surface of the outer dark green leaves of fresh cabbage. This film causes the interesting phenomenon, which I refer to as, water running off of a duck's back. This effect is observed by pouring water over the surface of cabbage leaves. The water is repelled from the surface of the leaf, forcing the water to form water beads, which readily roll off the leaf. This phenomenon protects the native microflora from being damaged or removed from the leaf surface in wet conditions.
Kefirkraut was conceived through the union between the native microflora of cabbage and kefir grains---KEFIRKRAUT Kefirkraut is a naturally pickled cabbage developed without the use of salt, vinegar or any other added preservative. The process relies on the native microflora of both cabbage and kefir grains to ferment and to preserve the culture food-product. The conversion of starches and sugars [found in raw vegetable] into natural vinegar [acetic acid], lactic acid and other organic acids are the compounds responsible for naturally preserving kefirkraut.
Kefirkraut is quite simple to prepare. In fact, anyone with a small amount of excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains should find the recipe and method explained here, quite easy to follow. One has the option to include a wide variety of vegetables, including certain fresh fruits. This includes Japanese radish [Daikon] or small red radish, broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, parsnip, turnip, beet root, garlic, sprouted legumes, apple and quince etc. Kefirkraut has a crisp, fresh texture with a funky delicate flavour. It makes a wonderful addition to fresh salads, for kefirkraut provides the correct amount of a mellow-tangy-edge, just enough to enhance flavour. With the addition of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt or a small amount of traditional non-pasteurized soy sauce or non-sodium salts to taste, followed with a cup of creamy kefir... what more can one say?.. except for-- Kefir-Cheers!
Kefirkraut-- satisfies the Bliss-Point-Factor where sauerkraut fails IngredientsUtensils # Fermentation Vessel. A large nonmetallic 4-litre [1 gal] tall round or square container e.g., a food-grade glazed terra cotta crock or glazed stoneware crock or a glass jar as shown in picture above. A tall cylindrical vessel is best [See below]. # Mortar and pestle or food processor to bruise the cabbage.
# Large wooden-dowel. It can be e.g., a wooden rolling pin with one end sawn off square, or similar. It is best for the dowelling to be a little longer than the height of the fermentation vessel. This is your pounding tool if a mortar and pestle or food processor is not available or not preferred. Or it is your pressing tool if using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
# A Follower. This is to cover the ingredients. Either a round flat dish or a wooden disk which fits snug in the fermenting vessel. However, this may be omitted if you use a suitable weight source. [See following].
# About 1kg [2Lb] weight e.g., a large clean stone, or a large bottle or jar filled with water [If an appropriate wide enough jar is used, it can replace the follower called for above].
# One medium to large fresh organically grown cabbage with outer dark green leaves left intact.
# Optional ingredients One Japanese radish [Daikon], or a bunch of small red round or long radish. One medium size carrot. One medium head of broccoli and or cauliflower. 2 large mustard green leaves. A few young tender broad bean plant tips, including 1/2 cup fresh broad beans. 1 medium size beet root. 1 cup sprouted legumes or seeds e.g., mung bean, soybean, lentil, alfa-alfa, cress or any combination. 1 Tbs each of caraway, dill and or fennel seed. About 12 juniper berries.
# 2 Tbs milk kefir-grains or 4 Tbs water kefir-grains. Use fresh excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains.
# Liquid. Fresh water, preferably natural spring water that has been pre-boiled and cooled to room temperature. Or fresh vegetable or fruit juice or a mixture of both. [This is to cover the vegetables in the fermentation vessel. About 1 to 3 cups depending on quantity you're making and size of crock and amount of bruising done to the cabbage-more bruising less liquid required]. Method for Preparing Kefirkraut Preparing the Ingredients Remove large outer dark green leaves from the cabbage until clean, light-green leaves appear. Keep two of the outer dark-green leaves and wash well with fresh water. Cut whole cabbage in half and remove hard centre core with a sharp knife. Shred cabbage to about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick long strips.
Mortar and Pestle Method for Bruising Cabbage Pound a handful amount of shredded cabbage in a mortar with a pestle to bruise, until its own juice is released when a portion of bruised cabbage is squeezed in the hand. Pound small amounts at a time, placing each bruised portion in a large bowl, until all the cabbage has been processed.
Electric Food Processor Method for Bruising Cabbage Put an amount of shredded cabbage in electric food processor and process as low speed for a few seconds until bruised and a little juice is released from the cabbage. Do not over process otherwise you will be left with a mush. Put in a large bowl, and process another small amount like so, until all the cabbage is processed.
Wooden Dowel Method for Bruising Cabbage Fill fermenting vessel 1/3 with shredded cabbage. Pound the cabbage with wooden dowel until cabbage is well bruised and a little juice is released. Put bruised cabbage in a large bowl. Process the remainder of shredded cabbage as explained.
Optional veggies may be used whole, if no larger than about 2cm [1"] in thickness. Cut to size as required e.g., cut large daikon radish, carrots and whole beet root julienne style. Small round radishes may be included whole or cut in half or quarters. Broccoli/cauliflower heads need to be removed from the main stalk and separated into small individual flowerets. Small heads may be added whole or bruised by mortar and pestle or dowel method explained above. The same goes for sprouted seeds or legumes. Except for the kefir grains, mix all ingredients together in a large bowl. Filling the Fermentation Vessel Place 1/2 amount of kefir grains at the bottom of the container. Begin filling the container with vegetable ingredients. Press each layer down with a wooden dowel, or with a clenched fist until well compressed. Keep adding ingredients and compress until 1/2 the ingredients remain, and then evenly place the remaining kefir grains over the surface of the compressed ingredients.
Keep adding and compress more ingredients until 3/4 volume of fermenting vessel remains incompressible.
Place 1 or 2 washed outer whole cabbage leaves over top layer of compressed ingredients. Try to force the edges of the leaves down the sides of the container using a wooden spoon. This is to cage or seal the ingredients contained beneath.
Place a plate or wooden disk on top of the cabbage leaves, then place the weight on top of this. Note that if an appropriate wide enough weighting source is used, then there is no need to place a plate or wooden disk, for the jar or weight may be enough to hold down the ingredients so the ingredients do not escape and float during initial fermentation at room temperature.
If the ingredients are not completely submerged under juice, add enough water or fresh fruit such as apple or vegetable juice [or a mixture] until the plate is covered by about 2.5cm [1"] of liquid. However, if the ingredients were well bruised, there should be enough juice to cover the contents once the weight is put in place in step 5 above.
Place a plastic bag over the container to keep out air, dust and insects. The bag may be secured with string or with an elastic rubber band placed around the fermentation vessel.
Let the container sit undisturbed in a cupboard or in a root cellar. On day 3, check the surface of the liquid for signs of scum seen as froth or foam [or possibly kahm yeast] and remove this by skimming with a spoon. However, in most cases kahm yeast should not form when kefir grains are used as a starter-enhancer, for the expedient fermentation does not allow such yeasts to form.
The kefirkraut should be ready for cold storage at day 4 to day 5.
For the technical minded folks or tech-heads out there, readiness can be determined by testing for pH using litmus paper, or a digital pH meter [obtained from chemical suppliers, or Hydroponics agriculture suppliers]. The pH should be 4.5 to 4 [mildly acidic]. This is when the kefirkraut is ready for ripening under cold storage [refrigeration].
Experience suggests that during summer months kefirkraut is ready at day 4, and day 5 during winter.
Remove the weight and disk or plate. Seal the container with a lid, and then place the container of kefirkraut in the fridge. If the crock it too large to fit in the fridge, transfer the kefirkraut with all the liquid into suitable containers with good secure lids, and refrigerate. The ingredients should be submerged under liquid at all times. If the contents are not covered by liquid, add a little fresh water or fresh vegetable juice, adding enough to just cover the ingredients [not too much juice or water though, Dear Liza].
Kefirkraut should be ready for consumption after ripening in the fridge for 4 to 7 days. Although kefirkraut may be consumed from day one, ripening improves overall flavour, similar to the aging of wine. Ripening also increases some B group vitamins.
That's it! ... You've kefirkrautarized along with members of a minority group who do... that is until the culture-art is more widely spread, on sourdough rye, or essene bread.
Refrigerated salt less kefirkraut should store well for 3 to 4 months.
Troubleshooting and Other Notes If the kefirkraut is soft or mushy, fermentation was too long or the temperature was too high during fermentation, or too much air was allowed during initial fermentation. I recommend to ferment for less time rather than over ferment. In any case, kefirkraut will continue to ripen in the refrigerator, even if the kefir grains have been removed. In most cases, optimal time and temperature for fermentation is 4 to 5 days at about 22°C [70°F]. ----nuc13.txt:An extremely small and inexpensive daily dose of the preferred non-radioactive potassium salt, potassium iodide (KI), if taken 1/2 hour to 1 day before exposure to radioactive iodine, will reduce later absorption of radioactive iodine by the thyroid to only about 1% of what the absorption would be without this preventive measure. Extensive experimentation and study have led to the Federal Drug Administration's approval of 130-milligram (130- mg) tablets for this preventive (prophylactic) use only.36,37 A 130-mg dose provides the same daily amount of iodine as does each tablet that English authorities for years have placed in the hands of the police near nuclear power plants, for distribution to the surrounding population in the very unlikely event of a major nuclear accident. It is quite likely that a similar-sized dose is in the Russian "individual, standard first-aid packet." According to a comprehensive Soviet 1969 civil defense handbook,38 this first-aid packet contains "anti-radiation tablets and anti-vomiting tablets (potassium iodide and etaperain)."1987 book: • Introduction to: Nuclear War Survival Skills..free online!----w1.txt:Thickos Guide To Distilling Alcohol - Introduction Some time ago (about 1999), I set up a web site called thickos.co.uk. This seemed pretty popular at the time, and I have just reactivated it, and put a copy here as well, just in case! The main danger comes from methanol (methyl alcohol) remaining in the finished product. This is nasty stuff, and if ingested can cause severe headaches, blindness, or even death. The other alcohols produced (apart from ethyl alcohol, which is what we are after) are also bad for you. With care though, you can produce almost pure ethanol, which, when diluted with distilled water, is indistinguishable from the finest Vodka.Another health risk arises from the materials used in the manufacture of the still. For instance, if you cannot avoid soldered joints, then you must use a lead free solder. Ideally, all components of the still should be made from stainless steel. My own still was made from an old pressure cooker, with plastic and copper tubing, and stainless steel compression type fittings. I wouldn't advise anyone else to use an aluminium pressure cooker to make a still, but, at the time I decided it was OK for my purposes.------w2sxs.txt:put them on this page. Most of the other stuff on this web site relies on my below average memory, but this page provides a record of a brew from fermentation to drinking. Hopefully, someone out there will find this information useful.
First Steps First a visit to the shop where I buy my beer making kits. Me:- "Have you got some yeast that will give a high alcohol content?" Shopkeeper:- "Try this one, with this yeast nutrient." The yeast he gave me had the following text on the sachet:-
Gervin Wine Yeast..High Alcohol..S.cerevisiae..French Strain GV26 Particularly suitable for making high alcohol beverages(~ 21% if adequate nutrient present) To Use: Add the contents of the sachet to about 50 ml of lukewarm water (~35 deg C) containing 1/2 tsp. of sugar. Leave for 15 minutes, stir well, then add to must. Sufficient for: Up to 5 gallons of must. Packed for: Gervin Supplies, 61 Church Road, Woodley, Reading, Berks, RG5 4PT....Tel: 0118-9691518 The labels on the two containers of yeast nutrient that I bought read as follows:..NEW MINAVIT..Gervin Yeast Nutrient..Contents: 55 grams Best Before: 31.12.2000 Contains: a mixture of mineral salts, aminoacids and vitamins, including inositol, nicotinic acid, pyridoxine, thiamine, pantothenic acid, and biotin. Typical Analysis: nitrogen 12%, phosphorous 20%, potassium 8%, magnesium 2.9%;(contains no urea) Suggested Dose: 1-2 grams per gallon for wines, and 6 grams/litre for the production of high alcohol levels from sugar solutions. Gervin Supplies, 61 Church Road, Woodley, Reading Tel. 0118 969 1518 Brewing Up Poured 1/2 a bottle of cheap household bleach into my 5 gallon bucket (N.B. I think I was using far too much bleach, nowadays I would make do with half a cupful), filled to the brim with cold water, stuffed the lid inside , and left it all standing for about 2 hours before rinsing well with cold water.
Put 5 Kg of sugar into the bucket, and kept on pouring boiling water onto it, while stirring continuously, until it was all dissolved. Topped up to the 5 gallon mark using a mixture of hot an cold water to get the temperature to exactly 25 deg C.
Sprinkled both 55 gram packs of yeast nutrient onto the surface of brew, while stirring well. This seemed like a lot of nutrient to me, but was slightly less than the recommended amount (see above). Started off yeast as per instructions (see above), and added to brew. Stirred well, checked temperature and hydrometer readings, and fitted the lid. Incidentally, I have since been told that it is more accurate to take your initial hydrometer reading BEFORE adding any yeast or nutrient. That doesn't really affect me though, as I only use a hydrometer to get a rough idea of how the fermentation is progressing.
Placed the brew into a small cupboard which, don't try this at home kids, I have rigged up with a 40 Watt light bulb as a heat source.
Waited for brew to ferment and clear, and took the following notes:- Date ------ Time -- Hyd ---- Temp --- Notes 30/12/99 -- 2015 -- 1.090 -- 25 ----- Stirred well. 31/12/99 -- 0530 -- 1.092 -- 22 ----- Stirred well, rise in hydrometer reading due to temperature difference? 31/12/99 -- 1840 -- 1.082 -- 22 ----- Decided not to stir any more. 01/01/00 -- 1430 -- 1.051 -- 25 ----- No added heat, but temperature rise. Heat from fermentation? 02/01/00 -- 0800 -- 1.026 -- 25 ----- 03/01/00 -- 0030 -- 1.012 -- 23 ----- 03/01/00 -- 1000 -- 1.004 -- 23 ----- 04/01/00 -- 0100 -- 0.997 -- 22 ----- 04/01/00 -- 0930 -- <.995 -- 21 ----- Hydrometer reading just off scale. 05/01/00 -- 0130 ---- x ---- 20 ----- 05/01/00 -- 1030 ---- x ---- 19 ----- Heater (40 Watt light bulb) switched on. 05/01/00 -- 1530 ---- x ---- 22 ----- Still fermenting. 06/01/00 -- 0800 ---- x ---- 28 ----- Heater switched off, still fermenting. 06/01/00 -- 1600 ---- x ---- 24 ----- Still a few bubbles. 07/01/00 -- 0600 ---- x ---- 20 ----- Fermentation appears to have stopped. 08/01/00 -- 1945 ---- x ----- x ----- Starting to clear 11/01/00 -- 2230 ---- x ----- x ----- Start to run through Still. Don't forget that in England we write the date properly - DD/MM/YY
My New Still The pot for my new still didn't cost me a penny, I simply made a slight modification to my wallpaper steam stripper. If you live in England you can pick one up quite cheaply at Argos or B&Q etc. All I did was cut the hose in half so I could fit it to my condenser. There are actually two plastic pipes, one inside the other, this stops the outside of the hose from getting hot. Fortunately, the inner pipe was just a nice fit inside the input of my condenser, where I secured it with insulating tape, and the outer pipe fitted nicely around the outside of the condenser input, held in place with insulating tape. There are different makes of wallpaper stripper, but they all seem to have a 2 Kw element. Unfortunately I haven't got any way of controlling the power output yet, but I still got what I consider to be a reasonable yield of a very palatable, fairly pure drink.
My New Condenser I stole the idea from the plans for a reflux still found on the internet. There is a copy of the plans on this web site,in a pdf format book, click here to download it. The author gives his permission for anyone to use/modify any of his plans, and to distribute his book freely. It looks like an interesting design. If anyone tries building it, let me know how it performs.
There wasn't really anything wrong with the first coil I made, I just wanted to try something different, and this new one was cheap and easy to make. The diagram below took me longer to make than the real thing.
The coil I made previously had a 10mm dia. bore. This new condenser has a 15mm dia bore. I thought that this larger diameter, and the fact that it is straight rather than coiled, might give a larger throughput, the only danger being that some vapour might travel straight through without condensing and be lost to the atmosphere, but I don't think this was a problem.
Water is supplied via a piece of old hosepipe which is just a nice fit over the 10mm copper tube input. The Distillation - First Run 2220 Siphon first gallon of brew into still. Connect Pot to Condenser, holding hose up with a piece of string in the middle, fastened to a nail in the wall. 2230 Switched on still, and water supply. Noise from heating element virtually straight away 2237 Outside of still starting to get hot. 2240Not as noisy. Smell like meth's at output, but no liquid appearing. 2241Boiling vigorously. Steady stream of distillate. Threw the first half cupful away, as it smelled like meth's. 2244Quarter of a pint collected so far. Looks quite clear. 2245Seems to have slowed down, but still a steady stream of clear liquid. 2247Three quarters of a pint collected. 2248Increased water flow, as outside of condenser starting to warm up. 2249One pint collected.2250Seems to have slowed down again, but still a steady stream of of clear liquid.2251 Turning cloudy. Switched still off. After this first run on the first gallon of brew, I ended up with a full pint of clear, not bad tasting, distillate. To avoid mixing the cloudy stuff, at the end of the run, with the clear stuff, I was colecting a small amount in a glass, then swapping for a fresh glass, and transferring contents to a bottle.
I thought of collecting some of the tails (cloudy stuff) and adding them back to the next run, but decided that quality is better than quantity.
Distillate from first run burns with a clear blue flame, but, when burnt out, leaves quite a lot of water (etc?) on spoon.
Second Run Half filled still with water from tap, swithced off water supply to condenser, and ran some steam through it to clean out. Switched water supply back on, and let some distilled water run through still to wash it out. Poured two and three quarter pints of bottled water into the Still, and added the five pints of distillate collected from first run. Discarded first half pint of liquid. Kept tasting a drop (literally), and burning half a spoonful (very little residue after burnt out. Stopped collecting at approx. four pints of very clear liqiid. I was going to do a third run, but didn't finish second run until half past one in the morning, so settled for two runs. The Finished Product Diluted my four pints of 'alcohol' with an equal amount of bottled water ("Abbey Well Spring Water"), and ended up with eight pints of what tastes like a very acceptable Vodka.
It is clear, nice to drink, and does not give me a hangover. on this basis, I am not worried that I am poisoning myself. If you think I should have any concerns, then PLEASE let me know. Manyt of you probably know more about distilling than I do, why not write something, and put it on a web site for us to share. Buy or Sell Home Brew Equipment on
eBay----w3thry.txt:The Distillation Process Theory Ethanol or ethyl alcohol (CH3CH2OH), is a clear colourless liquid with a boiling point of 78.4 degees centigrade. One hundred percent pure alcohol can not be produced by distillation, the maximum achievable strength being ninety six percent alcohol in four percent water
The reason it is possible to distill almost pure ethanol from the rest of the brew you have made , is that all of the components of your brew have different boiling temperstures.Anything with a lower boiling point than ethanol is called the Heads, and, for our puposes, is methanol (methyl alcohol), which is highly toxic when drunk, and MUST be removed from your moonshine.Anything with a boiling point higher than ethanol is called the tails. The tails consist mainly of water, but also contain some undesirable alcohols and other impurities.
So, basically, you have to remove and discard the methanol, which is a very important step, collect and save the ethanol, and discard everything which is left, ie the bulk of your brew.
Incidentally, if you live in the USA, then to find out how many degrees proof a spirit is you simply multiply the percentage alcohol by volume figure by two. If you live here, in the United Kingdom, degrees proof is considered to be the percentage alcohol by volume figure multiplied by 1.751. So 100% pure alcohol is 200 degrees proof in the USA, but only 175 degrees proof in the UK. This means, for instance, that a 70 degrees proof bottle of Scotch Whisky is exactly the same strength as an 80 degrees proof bottle of Bourbon.
Distillation:When I first made my still I fitted it with a thermometer in the lid to guage the temperature of the vapours. I also fitted a second thermometer to check the temperature of the liquid brew, but accidently broke it before I tried using it. In practice I found that there is no real use for a thermometer, except for something to watch while your brew heats up, and to provide reassurance.
You cannot expect to get a pure product from a pot still with just one run, but I would suggest that if you do three careful runs then you will end up with something with no more impurities than a commercial product.
OK, fill your pot with some of your brew and stand it on your heat source, put on the lid and connect to your (suitably cooled) coil. Now start to heat the pot up, I use one of the rings of my electric cooker on full power. If you us a gas cooker, or any other naked flame, then be very careful as any vapours escaping from the still will be highly flammable, ie you could blow up your kitchen.
As the brew heats up, you should eventually start to see some liquid start to dribble from the outlet of the coil. This is the methanol, it should smell like methylated spirits, and you should pour it down the drain, or put it in a bottle clearly labelled POISON.
After a while the driblle from the coil will have turned into a steady stream of liquid, and if you are using a thermometer you will be able to see that the temperature of the vapour has risen to around 78.4 degrees centigrade, the boiling point of ethanol, which is what the still is now producing.
Keep collecting the distillate until the steady stream ends, then remove your pot from the heat source, and dispose of the remainder of the brew.
Repeat the above process with the rest of your brew. If you started off with five gallons of reasonably strong brew then you might end up with over half a gallon or more of distillate. Mix this with a litre of water and run through your still, once again discarding the Tops and Tails. Finally add another litre of water to what you have collected, and run through your still a third time.
Fill a teaspoon with your finished product and put a match to it. It should burn with a clean blue flame. I would suggest that you dilute the finished product 50-50 with distilled water for a very palatable, strong Vodka. eBay---w4eq.txt:The Distillation Equipment There are basically two types of still which can be used for the home distillation of alcohol. These are the Pot Still, and the Reflux Still. I opted for a Pot Still because they are simpler to make and operate. I may have go at making a reflux still as a future project. I will shortly be building and testing a second pot still which has quite an interesting design, so, watch this space.
The Pot Still is comprised of two basic components, the Pot and the Condenser. The Pot is simply a container in which the brew is heated, and the condenser is a device which converts the vapours, coming from the pot, into a liquid.
I made the pot out of an old aluminium pressure cooker, which had lain unused at the bottom of a cupboard for a long time. Ideally, you should try to obtain a stainless steel vessel of at least one gallon capacity, and with a tight fitting lid (unlike my pressure cooker. )
The most interesting part of the still to make is the condenser. First you need a 3 metre length of 10 mm copper tubing (15 mm diameter tubing would probably be more efficient, but is much more difficult to bend)
Once you have your copper tube, you need something to wind it around to form a coil. If you are using 10mm tube, then something about 3-4 inches diameter should be OK. For 15mm diameter tube, look for something larger, say 6 inches diameter (this will of course mean fewer turns in your coil, about 6 loops instead of 10-12). If you cannot find something of a suitable diameter, then, get an old broom shank and wrap it tightly with old newspapers and adhesive tape until it is the size you want.
Get your copper tube and plug one end of it, you can hammer the last half inch flat if you want, and saw it off when you have finished. Get a large packet of ordinary salt, and fill the tube with it (a small funnel will be very useful here), packing as much in as you can by tapping the bottom of the tub gently on the floor. When full, seal the other end of the tube. The purpose of the salt is to prevent the tube from collapsing when it is bent.
Now you simply bend the tube around your former (broom shank). This can be hard work, as a copper tube, packed with salt, is quite difficult to bend. The easiest way is to put a loop in the centre of the tube first, rather than one of the ends, and then fasten in place with tape before forming the other loops. Leave a straight bit of tube (about 3 inches) at each end of the coil.
When the coil is the required shape, unplug (or saw off) the ends, and empty the salt out. It takes a lot longer to empty salt from a coiled tube than to fill a straight one, but you must make sure that all the salt is removed.
Now that you have a coil you need some means of keeping it cool, because the cooler the coil, the more efficient the condenser. You could make some sort of jacket to fit the coil inside, and run cold tap water through it, but I prefer to keep things simple. Get an old bucket and drill a hole in the side, so that when the bottom end of your coil is passed through the hole the top end is about an inch below the top of the bucket. Fit you coil inside, with the bottom end of the tube poking out of the hole by at least an inch, and then seal around the tube, inside and out, with silicone sealant (or anything else that will give you a waterproof joint. Your condenser is now complete.
To make your pot you have to find a way of making an outlet in the lid for the vapours from your brew. I fitted two pieces of 10mm copper tubing (one for an outlet, and one to house a thermometer to check the temperature of the vapours near the top of the Pot) into the lid of my Pot (pressure cooker), using some old compression fittings I had lying around, and sealed the leaks I found with some epoxy resin I 'borrowed' from work. You can use any method your imagination comes up with to do the same, but don't be too worried about the thermometer, you can do without it, and if I was making another still I would not bother fitting one.
Finally, you need a length of plastic tubing, about a metre long, to connect the outlet on your Pot to the top of the coil in your Condenser.
Buy or Sell Home Brew Equipment on
eBay---w5pro.txt:The Fermentation Process Sterilization The first job is to sterilize your fermentation vessel, and any utensils you are using. You can go along to your local Home Brew Supplies shop if you like, and buy some (expensive) sterilizing tablets, I prefer to use the cheapest bottle of household bleach that I can find.
If you buy the tablets , then just follow the supplied instructions. If you save money and buy the bleach, then add about half the bottle to your fermenting bin and top up with cold water. Put the other items (thermometer, spoon, hydrometer etc.) into the bleach solution, and try to squeeze the lid in there too.
Leave to soak for a couple of hours, and then RINSE VERY THOROUGHLY with cold water. This is very important. although excellent for killing germs, household bleach is pretty toxic stuff, so you don't want to leave any traces of it on your equipment.
The Recipe My particular form of 'moonshine' is distilled from a simple brew of water, yeast, sugar and yeast nutrient, which gives me a finished product which is indistinguishable, when appropriately diluted,from commercially made vodka. However it is also a good starting point for making other drinks with the use of flavourings.
My fermentation bin holds 5 imperial gallons, which is equivalent to just under 23 litres. For this quantity of brew I use 5 kg of sugar. For the yeast, just go to your local home brewing supplies shop and look for a yeast which claims to give a high alcohol content. While you are there get yourself some yeast nutrient
Empty all of the sugar into your bucket, and cover with boiling water, stirring well. Keep on stirring, and adding more hot water, until ALL of the sugar is dissolved. Top up with hot/cold water, until the 5 gallon mark is reached and the solution is lukewarm, somewhere between 20 and 25 degrees centigrade.
Now add the yeast and the yeast nutrient, as per the instructions on the pack (these will vary slightly for different products), stir well and fit the lid.
The final step is to place the brew somewhere warm, i.e. 20 - 25 degrees centigrade, and wait until fermentation is complete in a week or twos time. I like to give the brew a good stir once a day and add a little more yeast nutrient.
When fermentation is ceased (no more bubbles rising to the top, and, if you are using an hydrometer, a reading which is approaching 1.005) you should have a five gallon brew of (say) fifteen percent alcohol. All you have to do now is recover as much of this alcohol as you can with the aid of your still -----w6eq.txt:The Fermentation Equipment If you brew your own beer, as I do, then you already have the necessary equipment for the fermentation process. Basically all you need is a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, mine also has a tap fitted near to the bottom. There are a few other things which you will find useful, but can do without:-
A Thermometer.An hydrometer. This will help you determine when your brew has reached the desired strength of distillation.A large wooden spoon to stir the brew with. I use whatever comes to hand (even if it IS my hand).A siphon tube, if your bucket has not got a tap.
Some sort of heat source to maintain the temperature of the brew between about 70 and 85 degrees fahrenheit (roughly 20-30 degrees Centigrade). There are several types available from home brew shops, such as heated rubber mats or belts. I just keep my fermentation bin in an old cupboard, using a light bulb as a heat source if necessary....----wine.txt: Fermentation Process - How to Make Homemade Wine Fermentation Process - How to Make Wine From Home > Many people who are learning how to make homemade wine are learning that the most important concept of making wine is the fermentation process. When making wine you need to know what fermentation is. Fermentation is the process in which yeast converts the sugar in fruit into carbon dioxide and alcohol, the CO2 then escapes into the air creating the finished product, the wine.
Getting Started with the Fermentation Process The first step in how to make homemade wine from home is to choose a particular recipe that you are interested in, for new winemakers it is important to choose a recipe with the least amount of ingredients and one that involves very easy processes. When you are comfortable with all of the fermenting steps you can then experiment with more involved recipes and a larger variety of fruits.
The ingredients may vary in the different recipes, for new wine makers the best ingredients are juice (fruit or fruit juice concentrate), yeast, Campden Tablets, yeast nutrient, pectin enzyme, acid blend, and wine tannin. You will be able to use more ingredients as you get more familiar with how they react to each other and your wine during fermentation.
Basic Equipment for Fermentation Before you begin making your recipe, you need to have readily available all of the ingredients and equipment. You should have at least the basic equipment available such as a bucket (for primary fermentation) for the fermenting, a carboy, an airlock for sealing the fermentation, a hose or tub to siphon the juice, a hydrometer to check out the sugar content, clean and sterilized utensils for stirring, a straining bag or women’s nylons for racking and bottles for the end product.
The Fermentation Process: How to make Homemade Wine Wine fermentation has two major stages, the primary stage which is know as the aerobic, and the secondary stage which is the anaerobic stage of fermentation.
Primary Fermentation Primary fermentation can last anywhere between 4 and 7 days, with at least 70% of all of the activity of fermentation performed during this period. You will notice a great deal of foaming during this period of rapid fermentation. During this time the fermentation vessel is usually opened to the air, because yeast cells need air to grow and multiply. Without air this process will be hindered and your wine will be ruined, that is why during the first few days you will begin fermentation without the use of an airlock. Some alcohol is produced during this time but it is mostly dedicated to the allowing the yeast to reproduce.
Secondary Fermentation When learning how to make homemade wine from home secondary fermentation is the anaerobic stage of fermentation, because you will use an airlock to keep the air out. This process is much slower than primary fermentation, only 30 % of all of the fermentation activity occurs during this stage. This stage can take anywhere between 2 or 3 weeks depending on how much of how much sugar is still available. The activities of the fermentation will diminish on a daily basis. This is due to the reduction in air during the process that causes the yeast to stop multiplying and using its energies to make the alcohol.
Important Consideration for fermentation Temperature is very important in the fermentation process, because if the temperature is too cool the yeast may not multiply enough to ferment, it will just stay in the juice doing nothing. If the temperature is too warm, the yeast may replicate but the taste of the wine may suffer due to increased production of some unwanted forms of enzymes and growth of micro organisms, too much warmth may also kill the yeast further hindering alcohol production. The perfect temperature for fermentation is 72 degrees F, but a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees will do just fine.
During the fermentation process you will need to transfer the wine to a clean container leaving behind the sediment that has fallen to the bottom of the container, this process is known as racking. Racking needs to be done when primary fermentation ends or when the specific gravity is about 1.030 on your hydrometer. You will need to rack again after the second fermentation, and once more just before bottling.
Yeast needs sugar to produce the alcohol needed to make the alcohol your wine needs. If your concentration of sugar is to high it will stop being a food source for yeast, and it inhibits its ability to produce alcohol. In some cases you do not need to add sugar, but if the sugar level is too low, you may need to add sugar. The ultimate alcohol level is 10% to 13%. Many fruits such as berries need considerable amounts of sugar to reach the same amount of alcohol.
You may wish to add yeast nutrients to your mix, these nutrients will help the yeast reproduce more and produce more alcohol, it comes in a powdered forma and you can just mix some in a small portion of your must and return it to the fermenting must.
After fermentation activity has ended you will need to give the wine time to clear before bottling so you will need to leave it in to sit for at least 2 to 4 more weeks till the wine is clear.
It is important to remember that fermentation is the most important process of all of the activities that must occur when learning how to make homemade wine. It is the process that turns your fruit into the tasty wines. It is important to take your time and do everything correctly so that you get the best results imaginable for your wine. Also remember that during the fermentation process to maintain sanitary conditions because bacteria will harm the quality of your wines. If you follow all of these directions you will have great wines that your family and friends will rave about. More free information on fermentation is available at this site under Fermentation & Process Tips and our FAQ.
We recommend you read the next article on wine clarification next. ----win2.txt 10reasons for wine-failure:www.circlebio.com Homemade Ethanol Learn How You Can Build a Still and Make Your Own Ethanol. www.Ethanoloholic.comWhen you are learning how to make homemade wine, one very important thing you will want to avoid is fermentation failure. It is important to recognize the many causes of failure, so that you are able to avoid them before they ruin your wine. This list will show you why you are experiencing slow or non-consistent fermentation of your wine products.
1. Your Fermentation temperature may be too hot or too cold. The yeast in your liquid is better suited for its job if the temperature is between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, with approximately 72 degrees being the ideal temperature. If the fermentation is too cool it may become sluggish and ferment very slowly or it may not ferment at all. Fermentations that are too warm may allow microorganisms to grow in your wine causing it to have a bad flavor or may even cause the wine to be spoiled. In order to combat this problem you may want to buy a floating thermometer and put it into your fermentation vessel, that way you can watch it and be sure that you are maintaining the proper temperature for your wine.
2. Another reason for fermentation failure is adding to much sugar. Yeast needs sugar to produce the alcohol that you will need to make your wine, but sometime you may add too much causing adverse affects that you do not want when you are making your wine. When your sugar level is too high, the sugar will stop being a food source for your yeast and instead will prevent the ability of the yeast to produce the alcohol needed to make wine. Before you add any sugar you will want to know just how much sugar your fruit already has. Keeping in mind that the sugar level may be different in one fruit than it is in another. Some grapes need no additional sugar in order to make the 10% to 13% needed to make a good amount of alcohol. However in the instance of berry wines you may need to add a significant amount of sugar in order to get to the acceptable levels. It is recommended that you use a hydrometer to help you control the level of sugar you have in your must. It will tell you how much sugar you currently have as well as how much you sill need in order to reach the desirable level of alcohol.
3. The next reason for the failure of your fermentation is improper yeast starting methods. You will find that some packets of yeast will tell you to hydrate your yeast in warm water for a few minute before adding it to your must. The only problem with this is that some winemakers will use water that is too warm or they may leave it in the water too long. Some of the yeast packets will tell you to make the temperature of the water between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit; however it is much better to use 90 degrees instead, because at the recommended temperature for every minute you leave the yeast in the water some of the yeast cells will die. If the water is even a little bit warmer, say 110 to 115 Fahrenheit, you will find that your yeast cells are dying even faster. This means that if your water is too hot or you leave it in the water to long, your cell count will be to low to support good fermentation.
4. Another reason for fermentation failure is sealing up your fermenter to quickly after you add the sulfites. Many wine making recipes call for you to use sulfites such a Campden tablets, you will be instructed to add them to your juice at least 24 hours before you add any yeast in order to sterilize your juices. The sulfites are used to destroy unwanted contaminates including molds and wild yeasts. The process usually takes about 18 to 24 hours of allowing sulfite gases to dissipate in to the air. After the 24 hour period you can then add your wine yeast. However, if your wine is sealed or air locked, the sulfite gases will not be released into the air, and when the yeast is added, it is most likely to be destroyed.
5. Using an airlock during the primary fermentation phase is another reason for failing in the fermentation process. In the primary fermentation stage, during the first few days, yeast uses most of its energy reproducing. The yeast will need to multiply itself to over 100 times the amount of yeast you put into the must. In order for this to occur the yeast must have air. If you use an airlock, it will keep the air out, depriving yeast of the much needed air and slowing down the reproduction. Instead of using the airlock, you should use a thin towel, or a cheese cloth. This allows air to get in and keeps out unwanted germs and bugs that could invade your must.
6. The next problem that could affect fermentation is a lack of much needed nutrients. Having the right amount of nutrients is very important to the success of the fermentation process. Without these nutrients, your yeast may have a problem performing as they should. This may because the fermentation process to be slow and sometimes even cause it to stop before it can complete its mission. When you are making wine from juices, you will be able to easily meet the nutritional needs of the yeast by simply adding yeast nutrients to the must.
7. Another interesting but sometimes unbelievable phenomenon is that your fermentation is already done. In most wine making recipes you were told that fermentation takes as much as six weeks to complete. However, in reality, the process can be done in about 7 days. Many new wine makers will think something is wrong and may add sugar thinking they need to restart the fermentation; however time does not govern the amount of alcohol that is made. The best way to tell if your fermentation was done correctly is to use the proper wine making equipment such as a hydrometer to test your levels and if the answer is 0.998 or less on the Specific Gravity Scale, it means that fermentation has been successful.
8. Another problem that may occur is that the yeast has reached its limits, many times musts that are in the beginning stages of fermentation, have problems when the yeast reaches it limits. As alcohol levels rise, you will notice that the process slows down. It does this because alcohol is a preservative (something that helps something perishable stay in the state it is in) which means that alcohol may very well be the reason that the wine is no longer fermenting, Another thing is fermentation may shut down no matter how much sugar is still in your must. It is very possible to still have quite a bit of sugar that could render you wine undrinkable. You will need to use your hydrometer to find out how much sugar is needed to produce the 12% to 13% of alcohol content that your wine needs.
9. Another fermentation hindrance may be the use of distilled water, using distilled water can cause you to have problems for 2 reasons. First distilled water has had all of the excess oxygen removed from it, and the second is that there are no minerals present in distilled water. Both conditions have a way of slowing down the fermentation process. While it is okay to use bottled water, distilled water can be a hindrance to the fermentation of your wine. During the fermentation process, the yeast will need all of the oxygen it can get to reproduce itself. If the yeast doesn't get an adequate amount of oxygen, the fermentation of the wine may be slow and take additional time to complete the process. Having no minerals causes adverse effects in the fermentation as well. Minerals play an important part in providing the much needed nutritional requirement to the yeast and giving it the boost it needs to consume the sugar and make enough alcohol for great wines. If you are going to use bottled water be sure they say spring water or mineral water before purchasing them.
10. Sometimes you may find that your wine is not fermenting at a normal rate, it is either very slow or not fermenting at all. This problem comes from the fact that the yeast is too old. Another thing to remember is that a portion of the yeast cells die every day depending on the temperature where they are kept. At 80 degrees Fahrenheit your yeast will die very quickly, at room temperature it may die within a year, refrigerated yeast lasts about 2 years. Also know that yeast will not be usable forever and could be one of the reasons for your fermentation process not starting properly.
When learning how to make homemade wine you will want to learn everything there is to know about the process, but most importantly you will want to know what can affect the quality of your wine, because it makes the difference between good wines and great wines.
"Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have." -Stephen Wright
"Oh Lord annointed with the yogurt of the milk-maids worship (Krishna), Oh savior of the fallen, Oh Master of Shiva, please protect me." -Sanscrit Poem
Fermenting is Fun
Fermenting your own foods can be a healthy, fun, and nutritious hobby. We feel that anything you can make at home is much better than commercialized foods. We have put together a summary of fermented foods followed by a few recipes. Enjoy.
The Power of Microbes:
We live in a world dominated by microbes. The Earth’s microorganisms are able to adapt to almost any environment and thrive. Bacteria have been found in the icy regions of Antarctica, near the surface of volcanic vents in the Atlantic, and even in our digestive tracts. Our civilization is but a pale comparison to the invisible world of microbes that surrounds us. It is likely that these microbes will adapt and survive beyond human existence.
It is not surprising that microbes have become experts of adaptation when you consider the evolutionary pressures of their world. They are constantly disrupted by changes in environment, competition from other species, attacks from specialized viruses (i.e. bacteriophages), and a shifting food supply. Imagine trying to survive in a world filled with rampant diseases, famines, hurricanes, and floods, and you’ll begin to appreciate the world of the microbe.
Some microbes have colluded with the competition to form symbiotic relationships. For example, the bacterial strains Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacilllus bulgaricus, work together and transform milk into tasty yogurt. The thirty or so strains of bacteria and yeast found in Kefir, a traditional fermented drink of the Caucasians, band together to form complex ecology capable of digesting almost any food source and staving off harmful pathogens. The microbes of Kefir even provide themselves with homes in the form of Kefir grains that are composed of a polysaccharide matrix.
Our ancient ancestors did not live in a sterile environment. It is likely that they ingested various microbes found naturally in their foods. Some of these microbes were beneficial to their life while others caused infections and disease. Somewhere along the way in their struggle for survival, our ancestors allied themselves with certain species of microbes. Our intestines have evolved into a perfect microbial farm. We provide these microbes with furnished home and plenty of food, in return, they produce beneficial nutrients and help defend us from pathogens. About a thousand years ago, our ancestors began to experimenting with fermenting their own foods with beneficial strains to prevent spoilage, fight infections, and increase absorption of nutrients. This action further allied our bodies with the microbial world.
Benefits of Fermented Foods:
Nobel Prize winner Dr. Elie Metchnikoff was one of the first scientists to recognize the benefits of eating fermented foods. His research in the early 1900’s focused on the Bulgarians. He believed the daily ingestion of yogurt was a major contribution to their superior health and longevity. Today, if you search the Internet on probiotics, you will find an almost endless supply of reasons why “good bacteria” are good for you. We hope to convince you that fermenting your own foods is cheaper, more fun, and better for you than just popping a pill of freeze dried bacteria.
Detoxify and Preserve:
If there’s anything that the microbial world does well, it is detoxifying things. Today, Bacteriologists periodically visit old military facilities in search of new strains of bacteria living off of contaminants in the soil. If you put it in the ground and give them enough time to mutate and evolve, these microbes will find a way to break it down. This probably holds true for any organic chemical. These earthly microbes purify the world.
Not only have we been able to use the detoxifying properties of microbes to breakdown nasty substances, such as oil spills, military dumps, and sewer plants, we also use them to detoxify our food and water and increase shelf lives. For centuries, Europeans used wine as a source of clean, durable water. Bulgarians perfected the art of detoxifying and preserving milk (removing the lactose and predigesting the proteins) and transforming it into yogurt and cheese. The Caucasians used Kefir grains for the same purpose: detoxify milk products to make Kefir. Vegetables were also fermented to preserve them from spoilage. Most of the pickled products found on our grocery shelves were at one time a fermented product: pickles, saurkraut, and even catsup (a Chinese word for pickled fish brine). However, since fermentation isn’t always a uniform process, manufacturers found another way to make these products.
Fight Off Infections:
Competition between microbes can be fierce. The good bacteria that are normal inhabitants of our intestinal tracts will fight off many foreign intruders. They can be seen as our first line of defense in the war of infection. Scientists have documented many different substances produced by lactobacilli (lactic acid bacteria) that have been found to inhibit harmful microorganisms. For example, lactobacillus acidophilus produces several substances while fermenting milk, including acidolin, acidophillin, lactobacillan, and lactocidin. These substances have been shown to inhibit pathogenic bacteria, such as Salmonella, while leaving other lactobacilli and human cells unharmed These antibiotic agents are found in fermented milk, but not always in a probiotic pill. A 2000 study led by Dr. Chitra N. Wendakoon of the University of Alberta, Edmonton, found that fermented milk products, like yogurt, can kill Helicobacter pylori (the ulcer causing bacteria) but that the beneficial bacteria alone cannot. This means that probiotics in pill form would have no effect on H. pylori but that homemade yogurt and Kefir would.
Nutritious to Boot:
Fermented products are a great source of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. The process of fermentation increases the amounts of some vitamins. Fermented milk is a great source of energetic B vitamins while fermented vegetables are a great source of Vitamin C. Sauerkraut often served as military rations in ancient armies, most notably the Mongolians, and was used to prevent scurvy. The process of fermentation also increases the bioavailability of these foods.
Harnessing the Power of Microbes:
Pills versus Food:
We have already mentioned earlier that dairy products fermented with lactobacilli have been shown to kill pathogenic bacteria, such as H. pylori, while the lactobacilli alone did not. This means that some of the antibiotic properties of these good bacteria may be missing in the probiotic pills you see on the shelves. Also, you have no way of verifying the potency or vitality of these products. Bacteria are living organisms and must be alive when you eat them in order to reap their benefits. It does no good to ingest dead, good bacteria. Furthermore, good quality probiotics are often very expensive. For instance, a month’s supply from a popular vendor may cost as much as $80 to $100 per month. With a budget of $100 per month, you can make all the sauerkraut, kefir, and yogurt you’ll need. Not only will you be getting the benefits of these beneficial bacteria, you will be making delicious and healthy meals as well. The only benefit store probiotics offer is convenience. However, once you get started, fermenting your own foods is very easy.
Please Use Caution:
Before we get too far into fermenting your own foods, we want to emphasize two caveats of fermentation. First, the process of fermentation is only good for you if it occurs outside of your body. What does this mean? It means that if you ingest foods that provide an abundance of sugar and growth media for bacteria, they will ferment those foods inside of you. An overgrowth of fermentative bacteria in your body can cause all kinds of medical problems, including Crohn’s Disease, Ankylosing Spondylitis, candidiasis , and Irritable Bowel Syndrome. So the key is to pre-ferment your foods, that is to say, ferment your milk before you eat it.
Secondly, please do not eat spoiled fermented foods. In some rare instances, fermented foods can be overtaken by mold or become spoiled. In these cases, throw out the result and start anew.
Commercial versus Homemade:
In our opinion homemade products are better all around. For one, you do not have to trust a manufacturer with your health. You have total control over what you are eating. You can purchase the best milk and/or vegetables to use. Commercial products are usually geared for taste and not health. In the case of yogurt, this means that commercial yogurt usually has a high lactose content and is usually loaded with sugar. Homemade yogurt can be made to eliminate virtually all of the lactose and will be much fresher than anything you can buy in a store. If the taste isn’t to your liking, you can add in fresh fruit and/or honey to sweeten it up. Store bought Kefir has the same problems, you have no control over the lactose content in the end product. Another thing to consider is, real Kefir is difficult to find in the store. Quite often a manufacturer will label a product as Kefir when in fact it is not the real thing. In order for Kefir to be real, it needs to made from Kefir grains and not a powdered starter. As for fermented vegetables, such as sauerkraut, most commercial products have been pasteurized and do not contain live cultures. The pasteurization process not only kills the beneficial bacteria, but may also destroy many of the enzymes and nutrients. Commercial sauerkraut may also contain a fair amount of unnatural preservatives. We know that you will find fermenting your own foods at home more rewarding, healthier, cheaper than probiotics, and more enjoying than anything you could purchase in the store.
Getting Started
So you want to start fermenting your own foods, eh? Glad we could convince you. To get you started we’ve listed a few easy at home products you can make.
1. Yogurt:
Making yogurt is very easy, especially if you own a yogurt maker. We recommend purchasing a Yogourmet Multi – they are cheap, easy to use, and can make 2 quarts per batch. You can get a yogurt maker and yogurt starter from a trusted friend at Lucy’s Kitchen Shop. Once you have a starter and a yogurt maker, all you need is some milk (we recommend using Half-n-Half) and some patience. The directions that come with the maker provide a fermentation of 6 hours. However, we recommend you ferment your yogurt for 24 hours to eliminate all lactose in the yogurt. Any residual lactose could be used as food for bacteria already found in your GI-tract and result in fermentation in your intestines. CAUTION: Those of you following the SC Diet MUST ferment your yogurt for 24 hours in order to stay on the diet. Please refer to page 131 of “Breaking the Vicious Cycle” for more instructions on making SCD legal yogurt.
2. Kefir:
Kefir is a fermented milk product made from Kefir grains. Unlike yogurt, Kefir is made from lactobacillus bacteria and several different yeast organisms and is fermented at room temperature. The most difficult step in making Kefir is getting someone to sell/give you some Kefir grains. It would be impossible for us to give Kefir any justice when there is a website out there that will describe everything and anything you need to know about Kefir. The web site is called Dom’s Kefir In-site. Dom also sponsors an egroups list you can join to find someone to share Kefir grains with you and to answer any question you may have about Kefir. For those of you on the SC Diet, here are some directions from the wise Dominic about eliminating the lactose in the Kefir:
“I find a good way to eliminate lactose even further is to ferment the kefir per usual (24 hours), strain, then keep the strained kefir in a bottle (at room temperature) for a further 2 -3 days before consuming (ongoing fermentation). I don't keep my strained kefir in the fridge any more, but keep it like this in a cupboard. The kefir is still good even after 6-7 days. One must give the bottle which the kefir is continuously fermenting in, a shake at least once daily. This is so that the microbes (mainly the yeasts) are mixed in well. Other wise one may find a film or colonies of yeast or the acetic acid forming bacteria on top of the kefir. This is safe, but some lactose digesting yeasts may be flourishing mainly in this top layer, shaking will help to distribute them into the kefir, where you want them to do their work (breaking down lactose). This continuous fermentation can also be done in the fridge, but I find that a more pleasant tasting kefir, with markedly reduced lactose is achieved this way, (at room temp.). One can also keep fermenting the kefir, like above, in an air tight bottle. After the second day or so, an effervescent kefir will be produced. But i must point out that the bottle must not be filled more that 3/4 full. Of course, one could also ferment the original kefir for 48 hours, then follow on with the suggestions above. This may further make sure that the lactose content would be eliminated to a greater extent, and possibly in a smaller amount of time.”
3. Sauerkraut:
Sauerkraut can be made in several different ways. The traditional recipe involves shredding and pounding fresh cabbage, adding salt, and submerging it under water for several days. The natural bacteria in the cabbage, such as lactobacillus plantarum, will natural begin to ferment the cabbage while the salt inhibits other microbes. You can eliminate the use of salt altogether by innoculating the shredded cabbage and water solution with yogurt starter or Kefir grains. A superior recipe can be found on Aquaman’s Website. A traditional recipe follows:
Ingredients:
1 Fresh Medium Cabbage (red or green) 2 Tablespoons Pickling Salt (Please no iodine, it will kill the bacteria) Distilled Water (or filtered and non-chlorinated)
Shred the cabbage. In a large bowl, mix shredded cabbage and salt together. Pound the cabbage mixture to expel the juices. Place pounded cabbage and juices in a medium sized glass jar (1 Quart Sized). Press down firmly on the cabbage. Add distilled water until cabbage is fully submerged. Solution should be at least one inch from the top of the jar. Cover the jar and let sit for 3 to 7 days at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator. Alternatively, one can use Kefir grains to ferment the cabbage, just eliminate the use of salt.
4. Pickled Ginger:
Ingredients:
4 lbs fresh ginger root 1 tablespoon pickling salt (no iodine) ½ package of yogurt starter 1 cup Distilled Water (or filtered and non-chlorinated)
Peel and cut ginger into very thin slices. Pound ginger slices to expel juices. Place juices and pounded ginger into a glass jar. Mix with salt and water. Add yogurt starter and seal. Let sit at room temperature for 3 to 5 days. Store in the refrigerator.
For more information:
Websites:
Dom’s Kefir In-site: How to Make Kefir (The best source for Kefir anywhere). Sauerkraut Fermentation - from the Bacteriology Dept of UW-Wisconsin Weston A Price Org - Lacto-Fermentation Article Lucy’s Kitchen Shop: A trusted source for yogurt makers and starters. SCD Notes on Yogurt Aquaman’s Sauerkraut Recipe A Sauerkraut Crock Recipe Kim Chi Recipe
Books:
Probiotics: Nature's Internal Healers, by Natash Trenev Breaking the Vicious Cycle: Intestinal Health through Diet by Elaine Gottschall. Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook that Challenges Politically Correct Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats by Sally Fallon, Mary G. Enig, and Kim Waters. Beyond Probiotics, by Ann Gittleman. Acidophilus and Colon Health: How to Prevent Illness, Build Immunity, and Live a Longer, Healthier Life, by David Webster.
The Healing Crow is a nonprofit corporation. Information published by The Healing Crow is intended to expand the knowledge of the reader about health issues. It is not meant to diagnose, prescribe, or replace medical care. Our mission is to educate the public about chronic illnesses and corresponding non-drug related treatments. We encourage others to critically examine all avenues of information pertaining to health including: naturopaths, chiropractors, physicians, medical and scientific papers, and others; in order to make an informed decision. We believe a patient has the right to question a health source without taking any medical advice on faith. The best patient is an informed one. Before instituting a major change in diet or nutrition please consult a worthy expert in nutrition or a doctor. Although we believe our information to be as accurate as possible, discrepancies may arise. If you have a personal story and would like to include your testimonial on our site, please email us at the link above.
my-c6168.txt - - - - v6-17-08: content of this document:a male with valuable-time.gives it instead...into the hands of a beautiful girl. her previous posts: buzzing...taptaptap....and invisible kisses to dream about. --xo NOW is sometimes too intense to realize. Posted 6/11/2008 11:10 PM hypgnostic block delete wishes do come true. even if they donut talk. Posted 6/11/2008 10:24 PM hypgnostic block delete nope. not here. i guess as much as i like to "know" a person, i wood like one to "know" me too. though i have come up hard, my insides remain soft. i've always appreciated them that way. for you: if sun-god holds one's heart, then it truly free to share. believe that i am truly free. feel that, if anything. - Posted 6/11/2008 10:18 PM hypgnostic block delete please talk to me? -now- (heart sinking to my tummy) i wantto be a doer not a talker. please help me do this.(more honey more!) - - - end of her posts. deuda_male wants to answer your 6-11-08 now: ouch!...my heart...tugs when you say... (more honey more!) pleeez be patient with-me misstress. note: mistress: is a name describing a complete heart-surrender... to another person. it almost meens 'queen'... (.poor Male is hurtin Bad.) - (.more.) yes mistress. you are so female to pull me out of 'past and future.' and into -NOW- - Male cant see -NOW- ...female can. - i wood fite you but... gendr108 tells me not to. just hold still... let her do her stuff... -???- it must be a 'girl-thing.' care-ing for a-part of him he dosnt... understand...? - male dosnt want to talk-about it 'details' cuz he 'CANT'see it... mistress?: his dEEper-need of you. - - - (.more.) mistress im sooo sorry... i get so 'busy' that i bla bla bla.. and then bla bla bla... so... i will sit rite here beside you and stop tring to tie things together... (plop) .looking at your eyes and chin. (.taking your beauty in.) .holding your hand in mine. uhh... (.long quiet moments.) um,, you need to make a list of things you want your male to do to you... for a day... or..um...er.. for a night. stuff you want him to always do to you. even if he must act-it-out.. for a day... - atleeeest... ''untill his heart is tugged.'' till he bigins to do it on impulse... cuz he knows your wishes. and 'wants' to treat you so so-so-so well. so show him how! - im green! im teach'uble' i bin watching mennonites... so i think i know... how a girl shood be loved. its not a one-night-thing. its a... 'surrender to your heart' thing... to surrender to it. completly. one day and every day. and all night. completly committed 2U. hmmm...nnow if only... we cood meet people who... still live that way... hmmm.... people who love god. to help us on our way. - (.more.) maybe you dont like some words i use.. like obill? i can cut them out. (.my hand squeezes your hand.) maybe you want 'More'... i just dont know. (.my kiss Lands under your -EAR:) - pull-out a romance-novel i will read-it to you. how bout a bible story. first and last 3-chapters. a nation was built on this book. - how-bout evolution-stories... 90 years-old now. 'evol' for short... a nation... was destroyd by it. hhhmmm... good words? kids dont even know their fore-fathers beliefs. 'in god we trust' colonial writings arnt in schools...cuz.. they loved god. the idea now is to destroy that love.. by telling kids evol. so they cant love. they look for love. but cant find.love. only evol. no truth. no light. everything now is... 'made in china' .even our beliefs)... are communism. no freedoms. no inventions. only darkness. cuz beliefs are...a big part... of what makes a nation... different. think of it! your child wont ever Hear gods love. the bible. words irish people herd for 100ds of years: and hoped you wood too. the light is gone. evol.won. wmpress.org chick.com ftl.org? - freedom isnt for everyone. and trying to get it back... wood be bloody. . . a new dark-age has begun. --- enjoy the 'NOW' how-bout reading to you in circles... (.girl-style.) ...enjoying every part of it. love stories. messages from above. words that make hearts strong. somthing trusted for ages. things grand-parents 'hoped' wood be passed-on... BE-SURE to read st.john and the chapter in Romans. in the B.i.b.l.e.: b.asic i.nstructions b.efore. l.eaving. e.arth. - .maydn hates relejus stuff. .so does son-god. .he called relejus leaders .'poison-snakes'. . .they killed him for that. .relejus systems always try to kill god. .like evol does in school. . .the kid becomes agnostic. .the teacher gets paid. .so in god we trust. .meens what.? . . how bout reading somthing sensual!??... - nope.no.im h-ear to make your heart beat. not bleed. not gush. not pump-it-so-bad it starts screeming for ...more? ...this is love: teach Male to be a good 'heart-keeper' (.please move your hair so i can breeth better.) Q:what do you want in your garden? A:that: Male was a good heart-keeper. he didnt mess around. (.the results were beautiful.) no....no more 'heart-...breaking... .abusive words.. you can teez her...but dont.. dont pull her heart into bad things. - why? cuz im committed to her. maken-love to a beautiful heart... meenz not getting her drunk... meenz not making her sick. meenz years later her heart' has no scars, no fears, no shame. alcohol.(drugs).and a fowl mouth.. always brings scars thorns empty. - lay up treasures. a good example!. follow them! ...yes be a squirrl...but not a foul mouthed one. - i want Flowers to Bloom. (.from her heart?) a place Hearts can grow. but you say no. hearts are only for doing crazy-things and getting hurt. bleeding. gushing. crying.pain. - i say no. i say a little touching... .a little tugging. gentle leading. .no more bleeding. tender care. .pulls on your hair. no more 'rush'. .hopeless crush. daily tasks. .no more gush. sweet smells on your.hands. ..no more anger... when you and me are done. plant-ing words in the son. then let it rain! - .lots of care. .lots of share. .no more break. .only tears. .cuz it hurts. .when love gets in. .instead of lust. .and hate. (its a terrible distraction.) - .the golden rule. .still in school? .cuz no one knew. .whats best for you. .except the designer. .of all things. - (.more.) .male cant see. .he has blind-spots. .so do you. .male says your wasting his time. .you say it was spent wisely. .cuz its time spent with you. .the typing too. buzzing...taptaptap....and invisible kisses to dream about. -- if i can-nt do it rite... then i wont do-it at all.??? i want to pleese mistriss bery3-08 much! (.songs.) it thrills males-heart. she watches him bump and blunder. trip and stumble. flip and fall. the entire wauy. like a new-born deer. tring to find first steps... with... the..others. - - (.arms around your heart.).. stag-hugs... trying to make peace with... a grace-ful doe.... she has eyes that make his Tail-twitch both are acting silly... . .x - x - x . .ouch.! you can let go of my hand now... i think your..you.. yeeeow! your breaking my fingers off@ - - you know what maydn... i like sitting here with you... watching my fingers turn blue. - i almost forgot i was a stupid male. and thhat i got better things to do. -no end- --xo (.comment added much later:) it can all be wrapped-up in my favorite chick-tract: ''this was your life'' www.chick.com/reading/tracts/0001/0001_01.asp?wpc=0001_01.asp - (.next comment:two days later.) june-21 solctice sun now closest to the Earth. please stay out of the heat-waves. - .body looses iodine after... just a few sun-cell-mirowave exposures. .skin wont heal. .keep salt out of sunlight. - things to do: tug more hearts to visit galeeb.blogspot.com re-lated groops wood be: urbanscout.org survivalistbooks.com\groups farmersonly.com singles-tree forum at 'homesteadingtoday.com?', google:survivalist rewild retribe 12tribe xanga reenact post important tools\lists at re-chat. - and most important of all: dont drive deudamiff crazy with your smiles..:-)... . . . x . just cuz he loves you. - (.more.typed late, after dark:) i still have the 'first message'... ever-sent by hip_gnostic (now hxxxostic) to deuda_m. the very frsst one. (sigh) you-R so dream-ee!... i want to hold your heart... watch it..pitr-patr.pitr-patr. even when 'rain-rain' feelings. makes you wet-wet. teach me to hold your-heart... fffffirm until your done. and be a good male/to you. i need to know i can hold-it. when emotions want to go-off! i need to know 'my hands. keep you together... and do not pull you apart.. - your words are so precious. your heart is so precious. your words <-- um...? cuz i dont get to have a girl who can type\talk like that... you probly shoodnt but... god knows...what males need. it was so few words. they work so well on me. why me...why me.... people can laff it off. but i cant... i got tuff-times now... E-Z-daze are gone..(4evry1) what you gave is all i got. i dont laff to well anymore (no1can). i have what you gave. (.you are everything a male cood want.) you sure know how to make me free-up-inside. its like you were pre-? pre-paired to help me. before i ever knew you. (.more.) i gota quit typing like this...im trying to say: these words: ''your so precious to me.'' i will put them in our garden. and hope somthing good grows. but your looking at me like you want that word 'precious' pulled out cuz you dont know what male is feeling. well mrs.Bias Female you post some odd words too! - maybe i will just hold your words... a little titer. in my hands. in these dark-days and... say 'thank-you' (i printed them) cuz 'thank-you' is all i can say when... stupid female cant understand. -n-O-end- - (.next.) dark and late is the hour. crikets-chirping the 3rd moon 'looks' FULL. do you watch it with me? (yahhwn) mood:silly tired questions. i cant think strayt when its this late... i wanted to keep typing anyway. i think you like it that way. chills! cool-dark night. pitr-patr pitr-patr... you still feel warm and bright. - listen male..to her beat. listen male...at her feet. let her calm you. let her rest you. cuz it took... a-lot of water a-lot of seeds to get-her this close to you. water and seeds(flour) makes a fine pasty-mess. so you two can stick-together. threw thick and thins. a friend loves at...(yahwwn) all times. and her heart fffffeels good... when..it...rests safe.. in son-gods.(yahwwn)..hands. .... ... ... ..x. .zzzzzzzh. -(.oh god how i love this maydn...dont ever take her away from me... make a-way for her and meet her deepest needs. bring-her to yourself... soon,) - - - (.next morning.) after-much... rubbing-thumping... sleep-walking? no sleep-humping.. the-day came back. and glad! to see it. that was a long trip. um..do we do that every nite? i feel like going fora neet-new project. making kiefer cheese! after a walk(patrol). but feeling you beside me pulls me back to last nite... - (.looking at her.) commited meens: to her only. i can talk about things i woodnt say-type to anyone else. (.thank-goodness.) so here cums more: little-shows of affection. and tungue-kissis. must meen alot to maydn. im leening on gnder108 cuz i dont knoe. male only thinks male. thats why i need gnder108 tell me what she likes. tell me what i like but... was to ashamed to say it. a real person put gnder108 together. see maydn? someone made alot of goof-ups. to find our differences. so we cood understand each-other better. its a step-stone so we dont have to 'goof-up'... and-or just get angry... id hate to be the persons who made it possible. but then... see? wee need people. their hard-learned skills. its a natural defense. to go-look for people... the kind you... ...want to be like, even if they arnt human. they may have a 'trate.' you value. you hold to be.. precious. - (.more.) when this new-day gets to exciting for bed... i reech for a scripture-song... to get my mind fed. .in-tune with older-powers. .a person i want to be like: .god. . . .old-path says to sing it to maydn from a book. .but i dont like my voice.. and find it easier to just.. .flip-a-switch.mp3 . .(.still looking at you.) oh maydn...(.sigh.) your so....(-x- -x ----x) i better not say. . . i 'CANT' feel for you when you speak of tungue-kisses. i keep all my affections...um. between my legs... but since girls got nothing like that...then they must make-up for it by having a tungue tuned-up for 'exploration' . .if thats what you need... .and you teach me to like it too. .you can 'have-at-it'. .i will seal my lips around yours. and you can have easy-entrance. .and go as deep as you want. .committed to her. .meens meet...her urges. ..'NOT' make them worse!.. . . .did i say it right? . .maydn? - why are you looking at me... like that? i was just tXXX..-O- (.two hours later.) . .-O- . (.three hours later.) . .-O- . (.noon-time.) . oh maydn!....i see what you meen. but you hurt my cheese. - --xo . . .
How to prepare cultured-vegetables with Kefir Grains --- as a natural starter-enhancer Back in 1982, I introduced Kefirkraut to the folks of Australia on a small commercial scale cottage industry. The product was sold as "Salt Less Sauerkraut". This unique culture-product was wholesaled to selected health food outlets including specialty deli's in Adelaide, South Australia. Explained on this web page is the very recipe and method for culturing this wonderful cultured-vegetable product, which was developed and immensely enjoyed by yours truly, and which grained much popularity among our community. Kefirkraut is quite similar, but superior to traditional sauerkraut, I feel. The reason being that sauerkraut is traditionally prepared by the fermentation of fresh, shredded cabbage including seed spices such as juniper and caraway, and may include fresh herbs such as dill leaf, with the addition of 2% to 3% salt. In this case, common sauerkraut normally takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture.
On the opposite side of the chopping board however, kefirkraut is cultured with the addition of kefir grains incorporated as a starter-enhancer. This permits the culture-process to proceed more rapidly and without the use of any salt, or, only a small percentage of salt may be used, if desired. The culture-product can be tailor-cultured to suit personal preference of the Kefirkraut-Master. This unique method of incorporating kefir grains, influences a more rapid fermentation and as a result produces culture-vegetables with optimal nutritional value. Kefirkraut may be regarded as a vegetable-probiotic source, low in carbohydrates, rich in Lactobacilli, Yeasts, Vitamin U [only found in cabbage] and Vitamin C including some of the B group vitamins bio-synthesized by the friendly organisms native to kefir grains, and to fresh cabbage or other fresh vegetable ingredients that may be used in any given recipe.
The native microflora of cabbage is evident as a powdery white film, covering the surface of the outer dark green leaves of fresh cabbage. This film causes the interesting phenomenon, which I refer to as, water running off of a duck's back. This effect is observed by pouring water over the surface of cabbage leaves. The water is repelled from the surface of the leaf, forcing the water to form water beads, which readily roll off the leaf. This phenomenon protects the native microflora from being damaged or removed from the leaf surface in wet conditions.
Kefirkraut was conceived through the union between the native microflora of cabbage and kefir grains
Main Topics on this Page Kefirkraut | Ingredients & Utensils | Preparing Kefirkraut | Kefir Grains for Preparing Kefirkraut
Variations | Kefchi | Raditional Tips | Microbial Evolution of Kraut | Links to my web pages | Links of Interest
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KEFIRKRAUT Kefirkraut is a naturally pickled cabbage developed without the use of salt, vinegar or any other added preservative. The process relies on the native microflora of both cabbage and kefir grains to ferment and to preserve the culture food-product. The conversion of starches and sugars [found in raw vegetable] into natural vinegar [acetic acid], lactic acid and other organic acids are the compounds responsible for naturally preserving kefirkraut.
Kefirkraut is quite simple to prepare. In fact, anyone with a small amount of excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains should find the recipe and method explained here, quite easy to follow. One has the option to include a wide variety of vegetables, including certain fresh fruits. This includes Japanese radish [Daikon] or small red radish, broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, parsnip, turnip, beet root, garlic, sprouted legumes, apple and quince etc. Kefirkraut has a crisp, fresh texture with a funky delicate flavour. It makes a wonderful addition to fresh salads, for kefirkraut provides the correct amount of a mellow-tangy-edge, just enough to enhance flavour. With the addition of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt or a small amount of traditional non-pasteurized soy sauce or non-sodium salts to taste, followed with a cup of creamy kefir... what more can one say?.. except for-- Kefir-Cheers!
Kefirkraut-- satisfies the Bliss-Point-Factor where sauerkraut fails
IngredientsUtensils # Fermentation Vessel. A large nonmetallic 4-litre [1 gal] tall round or square container e.g., a food-grade glazed terra cotta crock or glazed stoneware crock or a glass jar as shown in picture above. A tall cylindrical vessel is best [See below]. # Mortar and pestle or food processor to bruise the cabbage.
# Large wooden-dowel. It can be e.g., a wooden rolling pin with one end sawn off square, or similar. It is best for the dowelling to be a little longer than the height of the fermentation vessel. This is your pounding tool if a mortar and pestle or food processor is not available or not preferred. Or it is your pressing tool if using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
# A Follower. This is to cover the ingredients. Either a round flat dish or a wooden disk which fits snug in the fermenting vessel. However, this may be omitted if you use a suitable weight source. [See following].
# About 1kg [2Lb] weight e.g., a large clean stone, or a large bottle or jar filled with water [If an appropriate wide enough jar is used, it can replace the follower called for above].
# One medium to large fresh organically grown cabbage with outer dark green leaves left intact.
# Optional ingredients One Japanese radish [Daikon], or a bunch of small red round or long radish. One medium size carrot. One medium head of broccoli and or cauliflower. 2 large mustard green leaves. A few young tender broad bean plant tips, including 1/2 cup fresh broad beans. 1 medium size beet root. 1 cup sprouted legumes or seeds e.g., mung bean, soybean, lentil, alfa-alfa, cress or any combination. 1 Tbs each of caraway, dill and or fennel seed. About 12 juniper berries.
# 2 Tbs milk kefir-grains or 4 Tbs water kefir-grains. Use fresh excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains.
# Liquid. Fresh water, preferably natural spring water that has been pre-boiled and cooled to room temperature. Or fresh vegetable or fruit juice or a mixture of both. [This is to cover the vegetables in the fermentation vessel. About 1 to 3 cups depending on quantity you're making and size of crock and amount of bruising done to the cabbage-more bruising less liquid required]. Method for Preparing Kefirkraut Preparing the Ingredients Remove large outer dark green leaves from the cabbage until clean, light-green leaves appear. Keep two of the outer dark-green leaves and wash well with fresh water. Cut whole cabbage in half and remove hard centre core with a sharp knife. Shred cabbage to about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick long strips.
Mortar and Pestle Method for Bruising Cabbage Pound a handful amount of shredded cabbage in a mortar with a pestle to bruise, until its own juice is released when a portion of bruised cabbage is squeezed in the hand. Pound small amounts at a time, placing each bruised portion in a large bowl, until all the cabbage has been processed.
Electric Food Processor Method for Bruising Cabbage Put an amount of shredded cabbage in electric food processor and process as low speed for a few seconds until bruised and a little juice is released from the cabbage. Do not over process otherwise you will be left with a mush. Put in a large bowl, and process another small amount like so, until all the cabbage is processed.
Wooden Dowel Method for Bruising Cabbage Fill fermenting vessel 1/3 with shredded cabbage. Pound the cabbage with wooden dowel until cabbage is well bruised and a little juice is released. Put bruised cabbage in a large bowl. Process the remainder of shredded cabbage as explained.
Optional veggies may be used whole, if no larger than about 2cm [1"] in thickness. Cut to size as required e.g., cut large daikon radish, carrots and whole beet root julienne style. Small round radishes may be included whole or cut in half or quarters. Broccoli/cauliflower heads need to be removed from the main stalk and separated into small individual flowerets. Small heads may be added whole or bruised by mortar and pestle or dowel method explained above. The same goes for sprouted seeds or legumes. Except for the kefir grains, mix all ingredients together in a large bowl.
Filling the Fermentation Vessel Place 1/2 amount of kefir grains at the bottom of the container. Begin filling the container with vegetable ingredients. Press each layer down with a wooden dowel, or with a clenched fist until well compressed. Keep adding ingredients and compress until 1/2 the ingredients remain, and then evenly place the remaining kefir grains over the surface of the compressed ingredients.
Keep adding and compress more ingredients until 3/4 volume of fermenting vessel remains incompressible.
Place 1 or 2 washed outer whole cabbage leaves over top layer of compressed ingredients. Try to force the edges of the leaves down the sides of the container using a wooden spoon. This is to cage or seal the ingredients contained beneath.
Place a plate or wooden disk on top of the cabbage leaves, then place the weight on top of this. Note that if an appropriate wide enough weighting source is used, then there is no need to place a plate or wooden disk, for the jar or weight may be enough to hold down the ingredients so the ingredients do not escape and float during initial fermentation at room temperature.
If the ingredients are not completely submerged under juice, add enough water or fresh fruit such as apple or vegetable juice [or a mixture] until the plate is covered by about 2.5cm [1"] of liquid. However, if the ingredients were well bruised, there should be enough juice to cover the contents once the weight is put in place in step 5 above.
Place a plastic bag over the container to keep out air, dust and insects. The bag may be secured with string or with an elastic rubber band placed around the fermentation vessel.
Let the container sit undisturbed in a cupboard or in a root cellar. On day 3, check the surface of the liquid for signs of scum seen as froth or foam [or possibly kahm yeast] and remove this by skimming with a spoon. However, in most cases kahm yeast should not form when kefir grains are used as a starter-enhancer, for the expedient fermentation does not allow such yeasts to form.
The kefirkraut should be ready for cold storage at day 4 to day 5.
For the technical minded folks or tech-heads out there, readiness can be determined by testing for pH using litmus paper, or a digital pH meter [obtained from chemical suppliers, or Hydroponics agriculture suppliers]. The pH should be 4.5 to 4 [mildly acidic]. This is when the kefirkraut is ready for ripening under cold storage [refrigeration].
Experience suggests that during summer months kefirkraut is ready at day 4, and day 5 during winter.
Remove the weight and disk or plate. Seal the container with a lid, and then place the container of kefirkraut in the fridge. If the crock it too large to fit in the fridge, transfer the kefirkraut with all the liquid into suitable containers with good secure lids, and refrigerate. The ingredients should be submerged under liquid at all times. If the contents are not covered by liquid, add a little fresh water or fresh vegetable juice, adding enough to just cover the ingredients [not too much juice or water though, Dear Liza].
Kefirkraut should be ready for consumption after ripening in the fridge for 4 to 7 days. Although kefirkraut may be consumed from day one, ripening improves overall flavour, similar to the aging of wine. Ripening also increases some B group vitamins.
That's it! ... You've kefirkrautarized along with members of a minority group who do... that is until the culture-art is more widely spread, on sourdough rye, or essene bread.
Refrigerated salt less kefirkraut should store well for 3 to 4 months.
Troubleshooting and Other Notes If the kefirkraut is soft or mushy, fermentation was too long or the temperature was too high during fermentation, or too much air was allowed during initial fermentation. I recommend to ferment for less time rather than over ferment. In any case, kefirkraut will continue to ripen in the refrigerator, even if the kefir grains have been removed. In most cases, optimal time and temperature for fermentation is 4 to 5 days at about 22°C [70°F].
When ever a portion of kefirkraut is removed from the container for consumption, compress the contents left in the container to ensure that the ingredients are submerged under liquid. This improves keeping quality.
Kefirkraut at the Beginning of Fermentation [Day 0] This photo demonstrates fresh ingredients at day 0 of fermentation. A glass jar filled with water makes a good weighting source. This is an all-glass method for fermentation, which is the safest method for fermentation, making it superior, utensil chemical-leaching safety-wise. Below the jar, I placed 6 lengths of clean locally grown bamboo strips to cage down the ingredients, to prevent them from coming up to the surface. The bamboo strips are put in place of a wooden disk or flat plate [follower]. Because CO2 is produced during fermentation, the overall volume of liquid will increase over time, so the fermentation vessel is never filled more than 3/4. The vessel is best placed in a wide, shallow container to catch any spillage which may occur during fermentation. To reduce air and to prevent dust and insects from getting into the brew, the whole system is covered with a large plastic bag, secured with a large elastic rubber band or tied with string around the sides of the fermentation vessel. Or, a damp cloth is forced in the small gap left between the weighting jar and the mouth of the brewing jar, to seal the contents reasonably airtight.
After happily brewing for 4 to 5 days at room temperature, the weight and disk [bamboo strips in this case] are removed, the kefirkraut jar is sealed airtight with a lid, and then refrigerated. During cold storage, the vegetables are kept submerged under juice, as the ripening process improves flavour while the kefirkraut matures over some days.
There was no need to add any water or juice in this particular batch, because the cabbage was heavily bruised with a mortar and pestle. The cloudy layer of liquid is 100% its own juice. This produces a wonderful delicious, nutritious crispy textured kefirkraut, with good keeping quality.
This photo demonstrates another of my all favourite all-glass method for kefirkraut fermentation. In this case, a tall cylindrical glass vessel holds the ingredients, and a second glass jar filled with water is both the follower, and weight source. This fits nice and snug in the cylinder like a piston in a sleeve, pressing down on the ingredients, and preventing them from merging into the liquid.
The plastic placed over the mouth prevents air from getting in, and any odour from getting out, sealing the vessel reasonably airtight. This is a good way to prepare a garlic or onion kefirkraut, for these two ingredients create a strong odour that can be offensive to sensitive noses. When I have good banana leaves from our home grown banana trees, I use these in place of plastic sealer. Any large leaves such as cabbage can also be used to seal the vessel.
This particular batch is at day 7. It contains .5% sea salt. Note the absence of scum on the surface of the liquid. THis is thanks to water kefir grains that were used in this particular batch, 2 tbs in fact, blended with the freshly pressed carrot juice to form a mushy starter enhancer.
Much of the carotene of carrot juice, which gives the orange colour to carrots, has precipitated due to fermentation, seen as a orange-brown layer just above the string. The string is tied around the jar to prevent accidental breakage of the glass brewing vessel.
Kefir Grains for Preparing Kefirkraut Each new batch of kefirkraut is best cultured with fresh spare, or excess milk or water kefir-grains. You may find that water kefir-grains hasten fermentation more so than milk kefir-gains, so it is important to keep a close eye on the progress of fermentation when using water kefir-grains. In fact, I have used both water and milk kefir-grains for my kefirkraut, placing an equal portion of milk and water kefir-grains at the bottom and in the middle of the ingredients in the fermentation vessel. I now use either or both milk and water kefir-grains blended with a little water or juice to form a mash, and mix the mash with the chopped and pounded fresh ingredients. This produces a superior kefirkraut in less time!
The process is very flexible, for you can either use whole kefir grains, putting these first at the bottom of container and then half way up the container when half of all ingredients are put in the brewing jar. Or, kefir grains may be blended with water or fruit/veggie juice and mixing the mash with the pounded ingredients, then filling the brewing jar with the fresh ingredients. Or, a few kefir grains may be pounded with amounts of fresh veggies, and filling the brewing jar as you go.
Excess or Spare Kefir Grains are a portion of kefir grains, which are removed from a batch of kefir-grain prepared dairy milk-kefir [for milk kefir-grains] or, removed from a batch of water kefir-grain prepared water kefir [for water kefir-grains], when either of the appropriate grains have increased in milk or in sugar/water, to the point of having too many grains. Milk kefir-grains increase by about 5% to 10% by weight at 24 hours cultured in dairy milk for preparing milk kefir.
On the other hand, water kefir-grains can increase by as much as 220% at 48 hours in sugar/water for preparing a traditional water kefir, especially with added ginger root juice, alkaline salts such as 1/8 tsp sodium bicarbonate per 6-cups sugar-water with either egg shell, oceanic coral or limestone powders. However, good growing water kefir-grains like I have, should increase on an average of about 100% by weight at 48 hours. This lets you know that if you have healthy water kefir-grains and culture them as I do, then these are more readily available for preparing regular batches of kefirkraut, for milk kefir-grains increase by a much lesser percentage, which makes milk grains less available for regular kefirkraut making.
Do not use all your kefir-grains for culturing kefirkraut, for there is a good chance that they will no longer propagate in milk or in a water-kefir once the grains are used for kefirkraut. It is not worth taking any risk, when you can simply wait for a week or two to culture enough spare milk kefir-grains, or, wait to prepare a few batches of water kefir to give you a surplice of water kefir-grains.
Although I used to suggest using kefir grains from the pervious batch of kefirkraut to culture a new batch of kraut, I have decided to omit this suggestion in case problems arise due to lack of experience in food-fermentation. I feel more comfortable suggesting to only use fresh, spare kefir grains of choice, in each new batch of kefirkraut.
Kefir grains may be left in the cultured-kraut at all times is they are used whole, consuming any amount of grains removed with a portion of cold storage ripened kefirkraut ready for serving. We very much enjoy any small portion of kefir grains that are scooped at random with a portion of kefirkraut. But my preferred method is to blend a few milk kefir grains with a larger portion of water kefir grains to prepare a smooth mash as explained above, a starter-enhancer paste for kefirkraut. This prepares a superior kefirkraut taking less time to ferment, producing lactic and acetic acid at a much faster rate, which ensures good preservation.
There is also the option to remove kefir grains, if used whole, by transferring the ingredients to a separate container just prior to cold storage, searching for, and removing any kefir grains as you find them. These may be eaten, used in baking sourdough goods [as a leavening agent or starter], composted or discarded.
Variations The Perfect Crispy Kefirkraut with Whole Veggies I used to wonder why one of my friend's father used to prepare whole cabbage and whole root lactic veggie ferments, with the addition of grape skin left over from his lovely wine making including whole grape wine leaves. I found his culture-veggies to have an elegant crispiness about them, that was unmatched and which was retained in the veggies for many months. I learned that the tannin-rich grape skins and grapevine leaves was most likely the reason for crispiness in the larger variety of culture root-vegatable types. I found that if fresh grapes were squeezed or pressed for their juice, and then using the spent grape-skins in kefirkraut, with the addition of grape vine leaves placed at the bottom of the ingredients in the fermentation vessel, produces wonderful results, if whole root vegetables including whole Gherkin [young immature cucumber] are included in my kefirkraut recipe. In fact, I've cultured small, whole cabbage with added grape skins and seed, including grape vine leaves, also produces good results.
A hand full amount of spent grape skins and a layer of grapevine leaves are placed at the bottom of the crock. An amount of shredded and bruised cabbage is then placed over this layer, and then a whole cabbage is nested into the shredded cabbage. Depending on the size of both the cabbage and the crock, you may nest a few whole small cabbages along side to create a layer. Or, just one whole cabbage may be nested in.
An amount of shredded and bruised cabbage with about 1/2 cup kefir grains blended with a little water is placed in any airspace left around the whole cabbage, including a small amount on top of the whole cabbage. Small, whole root vegetables such as turnips including small cucumbers may be included in any gap with shredded cabbage if desired. More grape vine leaves are laid down over the top layer of shredded, bruised cabbage. A flat dish is placed over this, and weighted down with a jar filled with water. Dilute cabbage juice blended with a few kefir grains is added [with a little salt to taste if desired] to cover the ingredients, adding enough liquid to go over the plate by about 2.5cm [1"]. The vessel is covered with a large plastic bag and left to stand for 5 to 10 days [depending on temperature and amount of salt], followed by cold storage ripening.
Adding Spice is always Nice and adding Garlic for that Kick-a-lip-lick! Spices such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, juniper berries, caraway, dill and celery seeds, fresh or dry ginger root and chili peppers or fresh garlic may be included to enhance both flavour and fermentation. Mix any seeds or spice powders together with the vegetable ingredients prior filing the fermentation vessel. As a general guide, 1 teaspoon to 1/2 tablespoon of each seed spice per whole head of cabbage [about 1kg or 2.2 Lb] is a reasonable measure.
Spices may be ground to enhance flavour and encourage growth of the friendly microflora. Fresh ginger root, garlic and chili peppers provide an exotic zesty flavour to kefirkraut. However, garlic can produce quite a strong aroma, so be forewarned and make certain to cover the fermentation vessel well, with a plastic bag. You may not want to brew your garlic loaded kefirkraut in the kitchen, for you may well keep away wanted visitors! Then again, what of unwanted visitors?! Including these may produce a form of Kim-chi of Korea [Kefchi]. I prefer pounding fresh ginger root, garlic and chili peppers together in a mortar with a pestle to form a chunky paste, mixing the paste with all the pounded cabbage just prior filling the fermentation vessel. I also pound the kefir grains with those ingredients, then mixing the mash with the pounded cabbage. Vee simply LOVE zi GARLIC and ze GINGER-CHILI kefirkraut. I generally use one crown of garlic [about 15 small cloves] with 60gm [2oz] tender, young green ginger root and 5 or so fresh chili peppers to each 3kg [6.6Lb] of ingredients.
Culture-Preserved Fresh Ginger Root Sliced fresh ginger root may be cultured with kefirkraut as a means to naturally preserve ginger root. Peel fresh ginger [young tender green ginger is best], by running the blunt edge of a knife lengthwise to scour along the outer skin. Wash the root to remove the skin, then cut the peeled root into about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick slices, either lengthwise or widthwise. Layer these last, just before covering the compressed ingredients with large cabbage leaf [or clean white cloth]. The ginger may be left in with the kefirkraut during cold storage, removing portions of ginger as needed for preparing whatever calls for fresh ginger root. This process will not add much ginger flavour to the kraut, if additional ginger juice is not included as part ingredient. In other words, fresh ginger slices retain pretty well its full flavour. Another option is to remove the ginger root after 1 week of cold storage, and place in a jar, covered with extra virgin olive oil [or any oil of preference]. Refrigerate and use as needed. To prolong storage life, the ginger root may first be partially dried for an hour before placed in a jar and covering with oil. Don't discard the oil after using up all the ginger! This is GINGER OIL, which can be used as a salad dressing or what ever you may imagine goes well with ginger e.g., stream-lined pointy red shoes with purple-durple stripes on white extra thick Football socks [^]_[^] Very plush indeed... now, go n' get-em, hot foot!
Adding Seaweed [PRECAUTION] Seaweed is highly likely to be contaminated with high levels of Mercury. I suggest to locate an Organic Certified seaweed available commercially, which should be safe for human consumption. Although there is suggestion that most seaweed has the ability to remove heavy metals such as Mercury from the body, I question whether this is effective if the seaweed already contains an appreciable amount of heavy metals, to whether this may in fact leach out from the seaweed and into the body via the blood.
Adding Sprouted Legumes, Seeds and Cereal Grains [and Producing Sourdough baked goods] Dehydrated legumes are best sprouted first. Mung bean sprouts, soy bean sprouts, even sprouted wheat and other cereal grains [sprouted for 32 to 48 hours], can produce interesting results. Sprouted cereal grains encourage growth of organisms responsible for fermentation, due to the natural sugars converted during the sprouting process that provide an energy source for growth and reproduction of organisms. A small amount of sprouted rye, spelt, kamut, wheat or millet are best placed at the bottom of the crock. The spent sprouts may be discarded when the crock is emptied, before cold storage ripening, for kefirkraut-sprouted cereal grains may have an unappealing flavour [bitter/sour/sweet flavour].
Spent cereal sprouts can prepare sourdough baked goods such as sourdough bread. Pound the spent sprouts in a mortar with pestle, or, blend in a food processor with a little warm water and mix the mash with fresh flour, a little extra virgin olive oil or coconut oil, a little salt to taste, and add enough warm water to knead an elastic, sticky or stretchy dough. Put dough in a greased baking tin and let rise in a warm spot until the dough almost doubles in volume, or, until small cracks appear on the surface of the dough. Bake in a preheated oven [180°C or 350°F] for about 45 minutes.
Before placing the dough in a baking tin, a small portion of fresh dough may be kept aside. Store in a jar covered with cloth or waxed paper, and leave at room temperature to ripen for about 2 days. Use this starter to prepare your next sourdough bread, and repeat the process for the next loaf. This method can produce ongoing sourdough-starter similar to the traditional method for sourdough. The ripe starter is used in place of the spent cereal grain mash in the recipe explained above, when it is nice and bubbly having a clean sweet/sour yeasty aroma. So in a nut shell, you can use the spent kefirkrauted sprouted cereal grain mash to either produce a sourdough baked good with fresh spent grains each time, or, to initiate a sourdough starter, by which a small amount mixed with more flour and water to prepare the dough is kept aside and ripened before use.
Including Fresh Fruits and Herbs Adding slices of apple may also be included in kefirkraut. Adding two apples to each large head of cabbage or one apple to a medium size cabbage makes a nice addition. 1/2 cm [1/4 inch] slices of apple may be placed randomly throughout the ingredients while filling the fermentation vessel.
Vine leaves, black current leaves, spinach, herbs such as Parsley, Greater plantain [Plantago major], Dandelion leaves and flowers [Taraxacum officinale], Rocket [Erucola sativa] including a variety of other edible herbs may be included. Fresh whole broad beans or the young tips of the broad bean plant also make an interesting addition.
As a general thumb ruler, fruits & vegetables containing starch and sugars as part of their biological makeup, may be cultured.
Tenderising High Protein Content Foods with Papaya-Kefirkraut Green papaya makes a nice rendition when added as part ingredient to prepare kefirkraut [papaya-kefirkraut]. Try including about 1 cup of 5mm [1/4 inch] thick long strips of green papaya to each head of cabbage, or per kilogram [2.2 pounds] of ingredients. Green papaya strips may either be added without bruising, or bruised by pounding with the cabbage. Or, the green papaya may be blended to a mach, with the kefir grains, and mixed with the pounded cabbage. Papaya-kefirkraut, can be used to tenderise high protein foods, such as tempeh, tofu, meats including fish. This is achieved by marinating the high protein food of choice, in a puree form prepared by pounding in a mortar with a pestle, or by blending papaya-kefirkraut in a food processor, and then submerging the food of choice in the marinade. The ingredients can either be marinated at room temperature for 24 hours, or refrigerated for a number of days before cooked or eaten raw. A little sea salt, say, 1/2 to 1 tsp per cup of marinade may be included as part ingredient for the marinade.
There are other fresh fruits that contain meat tenderising property due to proteolytic activity. This includes fresh pineapple, and Kiwi-fruit [Chinese goose berries] to mention a few. The juice of either of these two fruits may be incorporated as part ingredient for a proteolytic kefirkraut for tenderising protein rich foods.
High Calcium Kefirkraut Try whole unhulled sesame seeds in the mix. The seeds may be added either raw or toasted. Whole, unhulled sesame seeds contain the most calcium found in land vegetables, but the calcium found in the husk is not biologically available. This is because the native calcium found in sesame seed hulls is calcium oxalate. Fermenting unhulled sesame seeds in kefirkraut breaks down the oxalate and produces calcium lactate, through a chemical reaction between lactic acid and calcium oxalate native in sesame seed hulls. This renders the calcium biologically-available [a digestible form].
Traditional sauerkraut is occasionally fermented by using a large heavy piece of limestone as a weight source. Limestone is mostly calcium and magnesium carbonate, and these two elements react with lactic acid in the kraut to form Calcium lactate and Magnesium lactate [bio-available forms]. One may implement this method with kefirkraut, by using a clean piece of limestone as a weight source. Or, by placing a few small pieces of lime stone at the bottom of the crock, or in the last top layer of vegetables before covering the ingredients with the whole cabbage leaf [or clean cloth]. An alternative to limestone is oceanic coral or eggshell. Small pieces of oceanic coral or the shell of one boiled egg may be included in place of adding pieces of limestone as explained above.
Kefirkraut Cultured with the Addition of Sea Salt Kefirkraut may be cultured with a percentage of sea salt, similar to traditional sauerkraut. But let's first consider the following. Fermentation needs to be extended when choosing to include sea salt as a ingredient. The percentage of salt and ambient temperature during fermentation, determine how long the fermentation process should be.
Traditional sauerkraut commonly contains between 2% to 3% salt and takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture. Although, preparing kefirkraut provides the option to choose any reasonable amount of salt e.g., 1/4% up to 3% salt. But there is little reason to use more than 1.5% to 2% salt if a refrigerator is at hand, or in cold conditions. However, 2% to 3% salt may be used if there is a need to preserve the vegetables for long extensive periods without refrigeration.
On occasions, I prepare batches of kefirkraut with the addition of unrefined moist Celtic sea salt, or more preferably, salt gathered from ancient lakes or caves from central Australia [for the purity of such salt makes it best quality]. I personally prefer any salted version of kefirkraut to contain 1/4% to 1/2% salt. This small salt percentage provides a subtle savory flavour in the kefirkraut, which is quite enjoyable while extending keeping quality by at least 1 month longer.
Salt percentage refers to an amount of salt added going by the weight of all ingredients. So the gross weight of fresh ingredients including any liquid intended for salting, is seen as 100%. As an example, kefirkraut with 1/2% salt is achieved by including 5gm [.176 oz] of sea salt to each Kilogram [2.2 Lb] of all ingredients including any liquid for that particular recipe.
Adding the Salt Once the salt is calculated by weight, the measured portion of salt may be mixed together with previously bruised vegetable ingredients. Alternatively, portions of salt may be pounded together with amounts of sliced cabbage and other ingredients, and then filling the crock as you go. Another option is to sprinkle portions of salt over layers of pounded ingredients as they are places in the crock. Or, salt may be dissolved in the liquid, such as vegetable juice or fruit juice or a mixture and blended with kefir grains, and then poured over layers of ingredients as you fill the crock.
Adding the Kefir Grains. Kefir grains may be blended with some liquid to a chunky to smooth paste to prepare a starter-enhancer. This is especially good with water kefir-grains, but it can also be done with milk kefir-grains, or a mixture of both milk kefir-grains and water kefir-grains. A little starter-enhancer paste can be pounded with sliced cabbage and other ingredients and sea salt. Or the starter-enhancer paste can be poured over pressed layers of ingredients in the crock. Or, whole kefir grains may used. A portion of kefir grains can be added first at the bottom of the crock. Then another portion of kefir grains are placed midway up the crock, or when half the ingredients have filled the crock. Then the crock is filled with the pre-salted ingredients, pressed, and then weighted down.
Fermentation Time As a general guide, kefirkraut with 1/2% salt is fermented for 7 to 11 days during winter and 7 days during summer [at ambient room temperature], and then the kefirkraut must be refrigerated to ripen or mature under cold storage. Although the young kefirkraut may be consumed right away, flavour of 1/2% kefirkraut improves after one week of cold storage. I always sample a small portion of immature kefirkraut before refrigeration. But I prefer the flavour after 1 or 2 weeks. Yes, ripening under cold storage conditions definitely improves flavour, similar to a well aged good wine or room temperature ripened kefir. Also, there is an increase in some of the B group vitamins during cold storage ripening.
With a mug of refreshing foaming kefir at hand-- It's time for Kefir-Cheers! to your health ! Shall we move on? Yes! O.K. -->>
-->> With 1% to 2% salt, fermentation may take between 12 to 21 days at ambient temperature during winter [about 14°C or 57°F] respectively. With these percentages and temperature, if one has the ability to test for pH, then this is an ideal method to determine readiness. Culture until the juice reaches pH 3.7 to pH 3.5 respectively. The cultured-vegetables should be crisp and not soft, mushy or slimy. With 1/4% to 1% salt, culture to pH 4.5 to pH 4 respectively, then the kefirkraut must be refrigerated. At this point, if you find the kefirkraut or the juice is still too sweet or fruity in flavour, ripening under cold storage for a week or two will mature the product, allowing full flavour to develop and improve overalls [that's dungarees for non Australian folks who enjoy a choke on one or two jokes ;-].
The reason kefirkraut with the addition of 1% to 2% salt may be cultured to a lower pH value of pH 3.5, instead of pH 4 to pH 4.5 [when no salt is added], is because 1% to 2% salt inhibits slime forming bacteria responsible for producing soft or slimy kraut. On the other kefir-hand, either salt less kefirkraut or kraut with less than 1% salt has a greater tendency to become soft and mushy, if left to culture to pH 3.5 at ambient room temperature. This is considered as over fermentation in this case. This is why salt less kefirkraut is cultured for only 4 to 5 days [or pH 4.5 to 4] at ambient temperature, then it must be refrigerated and matured for some time. Ripening under cold storage prevents the slime forming bacteria from spoiling the cultured-vegetables. As kefirkraut matures under cold storage, acidity increases until it reaches approximately pH 3.5, which naturally preserves the culture food-product.
Keeping or Storage Time Refrigerated kefirkraut with 1% to 2% salt should keep well for at least 4 and 9 months respectively. A 2% kefirkraut should keep well in a root cellar for at least 3 months, if the ingredients are kept submerged under liquid at all times.
Extending Keeping Quality of Kefirkraut Cultured with Sea Salt Where there's no fridge, there's always a way, for the way came before the fridge ... but the fridge took away the old ways, which is unfortunate for better health went along with it.
I have discovered that a mature 1% to 2% salt kefirkraut partially dehydrated, will keep well for longer than 2 years without refrigeration. This is achieved by placing a layer of 1% to 2% salt kefirkraut [cultured and matured for the appropriate amount of time as required and explained above] evenly scattered over a wooden try without the juice. The ingredients are left to dry in the shade on a warm day for 1 day, or in a food dryer until most of the moisture has dried. Drying is halted when the cultured-vegetables have a leather-like texture before salt crystals form around the vegetables. The par-dry culture vegetables is stored in glass jars, pressing down firm on the vegetables to remove air pockets. The jar is sealed airtight. This will keep well at ambient temperature, however, it is best stored under cool stable conditions such as a root cellar where possible, for longer, better storage.
The partially dehydrated kefirkraut may be enjoyed as is. e.g., by mixing an amount with salad greens and extra virgin olive oil. Or, a desired portion, say 1/2 cup of par-dry kefirkraut may first be soaked in 1 cup fresh water for 15 minutes before enjoyed. The soaking water may be discarded, or used in soups or stir fry dishes etc. In fact, I very much enjoy a little soaking juice mixed with milk kefir!
My most favourite recipe for a partially dehydrated kefirkraut, is one that is prepared with 1% salt, cabbage, lots of fresh garlic, black unhulled sesame seed, mung bean sprouts, fresh indian curry leaf or bay leaf. The garlic is rendered to a powerful form of functional food, which does wonders for the prostate gland, similar to Kyolic aged garlic. Did you fellahs out there get that!?
Adding Vegetable Juice and or Fruit Juice in Place of Water Freshly juiced vegetable juice including some varieties of fruit juices may replace water explained in Step 6 in the directions explained above. Try cabbage, carrot, celery, ginger root, beet root, turnip, apple, quince, or dark grape juice. The juices may be used per single variety or any combination.
For those who may be concerned about food combination. Yes, you may mix fruit with vegetable juices, for fermentation renders all ingredients equal-- the perfect union between different vegetative-food-groups initiated by the master-of-celebrants-- the Rev. Friendly Micro-Chaps.
The addition of fresh juice is best implemented if the shredded cabbage, including other ingredients, are not pounded to the point of releasing juice when bruised ingredients are squeezed in the hand. The reason being, if fresh ingredients are bruised to release juice under pressure of a clenched hand, then there should be ample juice to cover the ingredients when weighted down and compressed in the fermentation vessel. BUT, if compressed weighted ingredients are not covered by 3 cm [1.5"] of a layer of liquid, then it is essential to add enough fresh juice to cover the weighted ingredients, by about a 3cm [1.5"] layer of juice. Only then will it be possible for fermentation to proceed correctly, and in accordance of culturing a goodness grace-us quality culture-product.
No Mortar & Pestle or Food Processor in the House? Then it's time for some Foot Stomping or "Pounding in the Crock" Using a mortar and pestle to pound shredded cabbage, vegetables, or fruits is quite an efficient means for bruising fresh ingredients. However, a food processor can also be used to chop and bruise fresh ingredients. But if a mortar and pestle or food processor are not available [or not preferred], then pounding either shredded or whole ingredients in the fermentation vessel itself, until the juice of the fresh ingredients is released, is an option.
There's also the option not to bruise the vegetables at all. Instead, shredded cabbage with optional ingredients are simply compressed with the fist or with a wooden dowel or rolling pin, doing so in the crock itself. Continuing like so, until the vessel is 3/4 filled with well compressed ingredients. With this method, it is essential that the weighted vegetables are covered with fresh water, or preferably with fresh vegetable juice, fruit juice, or a mixture, so that fermentation can proceed successfully. The 2 Lt [.5 gal] container in the picture is a typical glass spaghetti storing jar. The amount of one small cabbage will fill this particular container about 2/3 full. A suitable glass jar that fits snug in the spaghetti brewing jar is filled with water and placed on top of the ingredients. This is both a follower and weighting source for holding down and pressing the ingredients. This is another all-glass method for brewing kefirkraut. Here, I'm using a wooden rolling pin both for pounding, and compressing the shredded cabbage.
I feel safer that the rolling pin is in my hands, rather than in my wife, Sandra's hands ... Sheeks! -- I best run for high ground now while rolling pin is still well secured in MY hands -->>>
Our wonder-daughter Shedea, six months of age stomping her feet to bruise the shredded vegetables in a 6 Lt [1-1/2 gal] crock, just like her dad stomping on fresh grapes to prepare wine. O.K., I may be stretching the truth here a little, however, it is fair to say that most, if not all children become readily akin with the culture-world. It is to everyone's advantage if they are exposed to, or introduced as children to the culture-art of friendly organisms, so that the art may become as second nature to them, as they mature and grow healthy into adulthood.
Actually, to tell you the truth, Shedea came to us in that crock, for baby-carrying Storks were on strike at the time of her birth :!) -- Why is my nose so long?
And in no time, Shedea turns almost 3. She's helping me chop up essential homegrown ingredients [mustard greens] for a delicious kefirkraut. Kids love to lend a hand, and Shedea is no exception. God Bless all Kids and you too, Shedea, especially for the special colour you've given to our lives. Shine one, little girl.
Kefchi is a kefir-grain rendition of Kim-chi of Korea. I may prepare kefchi with Chinese [Oriental] cabbage, mung-bean sprouts, daikon radish, Jerusalem artichoke, green papaya, fresh green ginger root, young or mature lotus root, fresh chili, capsicum, garlic, fennel seed, caraway seed and juniper berries. An assortment of other fresh ingredients may be included. This wonderful delicacy can easily be prepared with little to no salt. The terra cotta crock in the picture is where the bruised ingredients are pressed and fermented. As a starter-enhancer, an amount of kefir grains, about 2 Tbs are blended with an amount of vegetable juice to form a mash. THis is mixed with the bruised fresh ingredients before filling the crock.
If no sea salt is included, fermentation takes about 3 to 4 days at room temperature, because Chinese cabbage readily ferments and ferments quickly at that. If a small percentage of sea salt is used, fermentation may take between 5 to 10 days, depending on sea salt percentage and temperature.
The inner walls of the non glazed terra cotta crock in the picture above, is sealed with beeswax. If you are interested in learning how to seal utensils intended for brewing with beeswax, please check my Web Page dedicated to explain this particular art form at-- Dom's Beeswax treated utensils in-site
Kefchi prepared with mature Lotus root. Mature Lotus root is mostly not eaten raw after fermentation because it remains quite starchy. Instead, a few slices of the root are removed from the other ingredients, pounded in a mortar and pestle to form a thick paste, and then cooked with an amount of kefchi juice and a little Rice malt extract or Maple syrup, cooking for 3 minutes. This prepares a smooth, creamy delicious sauce! [Chinese style sweet and sour veggies, anyone?!].
Click picture for larger view
Non chili or sweet Kefchi with home-grown ingredients including cured olives and tomatillo ready to enjoy.
Kefirkraut prepared with red cabbage, red fermented rice powder, oriental broccoli and slices of Japanese radish [Daikon]. This kefirkraut has a crispy texture with a delicate flavour. The red cabbage and red fermented rice give the kraut a delightful red colour, which may be extended in creating wonderfully coloured dishes. I find 1 Tbs red fermented rice per 1kg [2.2lb] ingredients is sufficient.
Borsch [Russian beet root soup usually served cold] with kefir and red kefirkraut anyone?! ... Tips of the fingers to the lips-kiss Mmwooah! --- The time has come to vosh down dah borsch, with kefirrr-cheerrs-- Naustrovia!
Raditional Tips Preparing Smaller Quantities on a More Regular Basis Smaller quantities or batches of kefirkraut may be prepared by using half a cabbage or less, with the addition of your favourite veggies and using smaller containers for fermentation. This is a good option when only a few spare kefir grains are at hand. One tablespoon of milk or water kefir-grains is sufficient to culture 2 to 4 cup size batches. Kefirkraut may be prepared at regular intervals by culturing smaller ongoing batches. The kraut may be consumed fresh, possibly rendering a more efficient probiotic source of specific lactic acid bacteria, which initiate the culture-process e.g., Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Lb. plantarum.
Temperature Temperature is one of the main factors influencing the process of fermentation. Higher temperatures increases the possibility for kefirkraut to become mushy and slimy within 6 to 7 days, caused by slime forming bacteria. This is preventable by keeping a close eye on the kraut during warmer temperatures, where it may take 4 days to culture. Over fermentation is easily overlooked if temperatures reach above 28°C [82° F]. To ensure quality, I recommend culturing kefirkraut at ambient temperatures ranging between 16° to 22°C [60° to 71°F].
Fermentation Time I recommend that it is always best to under-ferment than to over-ferment kefirkraut during the initial room temperature cycle within higher temperature limits. This ensures that the vegetables are crisp and will retain crispiness for at least 2 months under cold storage. If the inexperienced is not sure whether the kraut is ready and believe it may need more time at room temperature, then it may be a good idea to finish the kraut in the refrigerator than to risk over fermentation at room temperature. Anywhere between 4 to 6 days at room temperature during summer and winter respectively is usually enough time. Readiness of kefirkraut is mostly dependent on temperature and the amount of kefir grains added ... the warmer temperature, the less time is needed. And to a point, the more kefir grains added, the less time it takes to brew. A good indication for readiness is by measuring pH of the liquid, doing so daily after the third day. If no salt is used, a pH of 4.5 to pH 4 indicates the kraut is ready for refrigeration [cold storage ripening]. Readiness for refrigeration may also be determined by taste-testing for sourness and good flavour. The juice can be sampled for a mild to moderate sour taste, with the slightest amount of fizz on the tongue.
Storage Conditions and Storage Time Kefirkraut must be ripened by storing in the refrigerator [not frozen]. It should keep for about 3 months. After this period, it may begin to show signs of softness. Kefirkraut prepared with .5% salt, should keep well for about 4 months and 1% salt kraut for about 5 months, and 2% salted kefirkraut will keep for at least 9 months.
Film Forming on the Surface of Kefirkraut Juice During Cold Storage [Flowers or Kefirkraut] If the salt less kefirkraut is not consumed within 3 to 4 months, then one may find a thin light brown film on the surface of the liquid. This should not be confused with the common Kahm yeast normally found as scum on the surface of traditional sauerkraut. This is more likely to occur when an excessive amount of liquid is covering the kefirkraut which is ripening under cold storage. The film or mycoderma is quite likely formed by friendly yeast and bacteria propagating as colonies under low temperatures. The mycoderma may be similar to the cellulose producing Acetobactor, which forms a cellulose film in homemade vinegar, referred to as mother of vinegar. Although any film found in kefirkraut would be unique when compared to the mother of vinegar variant. In fact, I call the film found on kefirkraut, Flowers of Kefirkraut. The underside surface of all the films I've seen forming in kefirkraut, have small irregular protrusions similar in appearance to tinny light brown coloured warts [or tinny baby kefir grains] randomly scattered along the underside surface of the mycoderma [Hmm?! ... The many small wonders that lay there beneath]. The mycoderma may indicate high activity of yeasts and acetobacter due to the combined efforts of the organisms native to both kefir grains and cabbage. I would recommend discarding the kefirkraut if such a film is found. At this point, the kefirkraut will likely be mushy [loss of crispiness].
Kefirkraut as a Sourdough Starter Kefirkraut makes an excellent sourdough starter for baking bread and cakes and other baked goods [Yes indeed, sourdough starter can also be used for baking sweet cakes, pretzels including pancakes, doughnuts and biscuits].
Take 1/2 cup portion of kefirkraut vegetables, and blend in a food processor with 1/2 cup of kefirkraut juice till smooth consistency. Or, pound 1/2 cup kefirkraut vegetables in a mortar with a pestle to a smooth paste, and mix with 1/2 cup kefirkraut juice. Mix well with 1.5 cups of certified bio-dynamic or organic wholemeal wheat, spelt or rye flour. This can be as thick or as thin as you like. Place in a glass jar covered with a cloth and leave at room temperature for 2 to 4 days. Each day add 1 tbs of fresh flour and if the mixture is too thick to mix, add a little fresh water and stir well. When the kefirkraut sourdough starter is bubbly, with a rich sweet/sour yeasty aroma, it is ready. You now have a wonderful sourdough starter ... a natural leavening agent when mixed with a larger amount of fresh flour and water to prepare sourdough breads, cakes or other similar pastries or baked goods.
I prepare healthy, wholemeal sourdough spelt or kamut Italian pretzels [Tarralli] with fennel seed, and Italian wholemeal spelt or kamut doughnuts [Zepole] and many more other health-smart wonderful products with a similar sourdough starter.
My nature has mostly been one to return to us, what is as it once was, and to improve on it.
Evolution of Microorganisms During Typical Sauerkraut Fermentation
Leuconostoc mesenteroids appear in high numbers to initiate fermentation. These eventually commit environmental suicide due to the production of lactic acid, acetic acid, mannitol and ethanol which the organism produce. This provides a stimulus for lactobacilli to proceed fermentation. Mannitol would produce a bitter flavour to the kraut, but it is fermented by populations of lactic acid bacteria [Pediococcus cerevisae, Lb. brevis and Lb. plantarum]. These bacteria, including acetobacter and yeasts keep producing lactic acid, ethanol and acetic acid, until fermentable carbohydrates are depleted, and a pH of 3.5 is reached.
Reference: Cano Raúl J, Colomé S Jaime. [1986] Microbiology.: 815
The art of culturing has much to teach, especially of relationships. What is important is what evolves into being, and not what is currently happening.
Links To my Other Web Pages About Milk Kefir + Water Kefir | Making Milk Kefir & Water Kefir + Recipes with Kefir | Making Kefir Cheese Kefir Sourdough Pizza + Bread
Kefirkraut + Culturing Vegetables with Kefir | Preserving Food with Kefir | Nutritional and Chemical Composition of Milk Kefir | Kefir FAQs
Seed, Nut + Soy Milk Recipes + Kefir & Viili made from these + Rejuvelac | Nutritional Value of Different Fresh Milk-Types
Culture-Foods of Asia | Kombucha & Vinegar Making | Cooking Tip for Better Tasting Food & Healthier Herbal Tea
Dom's ToothSaving Paste | Beeswax Utensils for Safer Brewing | Cod Liver Oil + Vitamin A & D Therapy
Angelica's Story | Sandra & Dom's Artwork | My Music
About This Site & I with Search Tool for This Site
Links of Interest www.wildfermentation.com Sandor Ellix Katz, or "Sandorkraut's" sauerkraut recipe.
aqualover.com/lifeforce/sauerkraut.html Mark Adams [Aquaman] homemade sauerkraut recipe.
warnings: watchman watch! eXpect xfrs2blkd. dont-make areas HOT by piking up noticiblz or senta-mentls...stay out of car-phone-reach. 5min = troops gangs bind-you instant prison! no-man-will-buy-you. value you freedom:watch the feed:what enters mouth, what goes out. move-like your one camera, motion detectors:lost entire montanas! spread-wisely places: A1:self knows only,A2:friends, A3:new friends, attacks:go for eyes-cover and breather. change names.no signatures. no agreements. dont talk...its just a distraction. no vent. decoys. alibies.
dont correct small things if time allows bigger things. schindlers jews:1100 relisted and bought. to survive holocaust. i cood have gotten more. just one more. ring: he who saves one life... saves a world.
bunker-down NOW: bob-bag:4days supplys redy2go!.. to forewording-base:4weeks supply... stashspots? trail to master-larders:4years supply. kill horses...bury meat...1 person will eat 7...before first-4-years is realized.
beware:'powers that be' may have plan to keep in position after disaster. after a total societial-colapse...(end of world as we know it:teotwawki) enuff to plan-executions ahead to graduate into this new-world-order...
new-world-order:500-million souls will live. (think california times ten) no-crude?:meenz one-half the items presently in stores within 2-years. when gas-prices get to 6$ pensions disappear, bank-runs will begin.
-end of warnings. now go barter top-barter items:
note the locations and people during your trading, cuz your own values eg:big-sword will not save you from their values eg:davids a-sling.
gospel WATER SEEDS SALT booze knives darts smokes guns medical:vet-iodine and grain-alcohol(use as barter money medical lamp-feul)
bullits(money) scrap-metals(melt) lead precious-metals, pennys(zinc) nickles
clubs (stick-cords) small-weapons, till you get-bak2lardge weapons:rifles
i will not put trust in my weapons, but the lord...shields? carry them? spritual reward: to live by the sword, is to also live in fear of it, he that kills by the sword must be killed with the sword.??? four-horseman
vit.C canning-lids raw-milk(lactose fermentation process) food-grade buckest (bak of bakery\resturants)
dont over-look fats+vegetable-oils + amino-acids for your larder. lard?
a month of rice-beans-salt
from 6-08\meno-az.txt: they cant 'hear' you anyway.
they got money-games to play...
meanwhile the land just sits there as if people dont exist at all.
atleast the gophers know what to do. they seem to be doing...what we shood be doing...but will we? i aint waiting to find out.
-
eg.ask people! what wood you buy\trade me if i planted it? collect your black-market contacts. for when american-money will only be worth a bullit in the head.(stockmarket crashed on jan.2008, but as usual, 'catchers' were there to fill the ball with more fake money (from the printer) to keep the american-system running a few-secounds longer)...its called:absolute-control of you, your time. and everything you thut was important. (you shood have bin watching the birds.) its called occupation. keeping you to busy to do what you shood be doing...
- as for me...i always tell son-god:''your blood is for my faults. your spirit is for my goings. the day and nite are yours. and you will help me use it.'' - - - - 6 - - spirit: - local-people need2be led to local-water and seed and the cross -NOW- ! all else drops in value(suddenly): hate, love, beleifs, money, sex. (see weeds108.txt) - when you travel, always share th-4: (watr,greens,seed,friends:gods-words) localharvest.org,galeeb.blogspot.com,mennonite.ch:4505 foothill blvd, ret-water.blogspot.com, exair.com\vortex-tubes,survivalblog.com chick.com,fellowshiptractleague.org? ftl. always bring-home living-seeds!, get dog-food. local-made? eg.ask people! what wood you buy\trade me if i planted it? collect your black-market contacts. for when american-money will only be worth a bullit in the head.(stockmarket crashed on jan.2008, but as usual, 'catchers' were there to fill the ball with more fake money (from the printer) to keep the american-system running a few-secounds longer)...its called:absolute-control of you, your time. and everything you thut was important. (you shood have bin watching the birds.) its called occupation. keeping you to busy to do what you shood be doing...
a 'living' for our-generations? umm..no.. the things you 'pay' attention to: THAt is your children. That is your baby. your son. your Future. so becareful what you 'Prey' (waste-time on). it matters.
- passover bread recepies send to: i2s???.. at 2oct4tom@ausi.com stop here:
- - new web-log at each xanga:
can you help me? im looking for a farm to live at.. i always wanted to do that...
make it one you wood like too. (click-me) www.chick.com/reading/tracts/0001/0001_01.asp?wpc=0001_01.asp&wpp=c www.organicvolunteers.com/search_results.asp?host_type=2 www.galeeb.blogspot.com - -
1sorts - a list of related? gotten and listed as-found.by date? 2print - notes clipd for print...reduce for future prefix? 3prefx - shows content of 1sorts
6-10-08: earlier downloads svi1234567.txt from 5-18-08 are finly cawt on notes.4p 6-10-08:feulb.txt - feul options.3p total: 22papers... 6-12-08:28food.txt - food storage.2p paused at 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to put start notes-on-computer. not paper. see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it! - - -
possible order of note-making: (as-is = as-found) 28rad.txt survivalblog.com\5-29-08\radiation link\ nfo:5-16-08 to 2-1-2006 28retr.txt retreats groups? survivalblog.com 5-25-08 to 5-13-06 28self.txt survivalblog\self-suffeciency data 5-21-08 to 2-2-06 28feula.txt survivalblog\feuls? 5-28-08 to 8-24-07 28feulb.txt survivalblog\feuls? 8-18-07 to 4-21-06 28food.txt re-get? 28outdo.txt survivalblog\outdoor nfo 5-6-08 to 1-27-06 28gooda.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-25-08 to 12-2-07 28goodb.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 12-2-07 to 5-16-07 28goodc.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-16-07 to 1-27-06 6-12-08:new related? stuff 14 + 14b ? 6-19-08:got? more related?
-end-
- - - - 2print:
parts my-notes say to print are parts most useful to me (avoiding most gun + engine nfo) and not 2sim2what i have alredy. somewhere.
-end-
paused at 28foodb.txt: 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to put start notes-on-computer. not paper. see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
continues here:
--January 12 2008 LettGrandpappy's Pemmican Recipe - A Native American Indian Survival Food (get entire) ...In the old days, after the meat had been soaked in a brine solution of water and salt, the meat was then cured or smoked. The heat generated during this process was the key
--In my Pemmican Recipe I recommended drying the thin strips of meat in the oven at a temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit for at least six hours. At that temperature the above microorganisms cannot survive.
--I also recommended the optional addition of salt to the pemmican after it was dried to improve its flavor and to help extend its shelf life. The reason I am taking the time to share the above information is to help prevent the spread of information that may have been taken out of its original context from the USDA web site and then presented on your web site in a manner that may be somewhat unintentionally misleading. Respectfully, - Grandpappy --Sir,I must say that I do not recommend the gentleman's pemmican recipe. Unless he adds sodium nitrite and brines the meat, sickness can occur. From the USDA: "Salmonella not only survives drying but also becomes more heat resistant with drying and is more of an issue in non-fermented dried meats, such as jerky, and whole meat cuts, such as dried hams. nitrates? are overused.. prefer brining. hi-sugar content will 'keep' even if not sealed. a wax layer doesn't have the "button center'' which will spring up if the seal is lost [on a steel lid]. You have no warning other than your nose if there is a problem, and botulism is odorless.
--Potting is an early variant of this wax seal technique. Potted meat is cooked, and a layer of hot meat is tightly packed in the bottom of a clean crock. Very hot fat is then poured in to cover it, then, once the fat has cooled and solidified, another layer of meat, another layer of fat, and so on. Walton Feed has an article with much better instructions. The instructions suggest that you cook the meat again, thoroughly, when you take it out of the pot, to kill the bacteria which have inevitably prospered in the crock.
--Salting seems to be a safer alternative to potting, with better potential for longer storage. To salt meat, take a wooden cask or plastic bucket large enough to hold what you need to preserve, and put in the meat in chunks of a pound or two. Pour on a salt brine, strong enough to float a potato. Don't pack tightly, because you want the brine to reach all of the surface of each piece. Weight the meat down slightly so it stays covered. It will take several weeks to pickle. This is a batch process: if you get some more meat to pickle, put the new meat in new brine, then, if necessary, put the old, pickled meat in the new brine, too, on top so it gets used first. Soak the meat in fresh water several times before use to get the salt out. I got these instructions from a fellow who preserved his food that way for years. I've done it once myself, and it made fair corned beef.
--If you are concerned with long term self-sufficiency, investigate ice houses, root cellars, drying, salting and smoking. Don't plan on pouring wax in jars. - Nels T.
--contains protein, fiber, fat, carbohydrates, natural fruit sugars, vitamins, and minerals. It also tastes great because it is a simple combination of meat jerky and your favorite dried fruit.
--To make pemmican you only need three basic ingredients: 1. lean meat, 2. animal fat, and 3. fruit or berries.
--Pemmican has several very important and desirable characteristics: 1. It uses both the lean meat and the fat from an animal. 2. It conveniently stores your summer food harvest for winter consumption. 3. It requires no refrigeration or canning jars for safe long-term food storage. 4. It does not weigh very much because it contains no significant moisture. 5. It is a complete meal all by itself. 6. It is very nutritious and very tasty. 7. It can easily be made in the wilderness without any special cookware or equipment.
--The following recipe uses equal amounts of dried lean meat, dried fruit, and melted fat. However, pemmican is a very flexible food and you can vary the quantities of these three basic ingredients to more fully utilize almost all of whatever food you may have available. For example: 1. Most animals have a lot of lean meat but very little fat. In this situation you should only use just enough melted fat to hold your pemmican together. 2. Depending on the weather conditions the summer wild fruit and berry harvest may be excellent or very poor. Depending on what you actually have available each summer you could use more or less dried fruit or berries in the recipe. 3. During the summer when wild game and berries are widely available you can harvest as much as you can and then process it all into pemmican for winter consumption when little or no food will be available. This is the reason pemmican was such an important survival food for the Native American Indians. 4. If you have more lean meat than you can use, then you can simply convert the extra lean meat into meat jerky. 5. If you have more dried fruit than you can use, then you can simply save the extra dried fruit for winter consumption. 6. If you have very little animal fat, then it is possible to make a simple granola snack for winter consumption by mixing some dried meat and dried fruit together without using any melted animal fat. However, if you have animal fat then you should use it because animal fat is a necessary food for long-term survival.
--Instructions for Making Pemmican:
Basic Ingredients: 1 Cup of Dried Meat 1 Cup of Dried Fruit or Berries 1 Cup of Melted Animal Fat
--Meat: Use deer, moose, caribou, or beef, but not pork. It takes between one to two pounds of fresh meat to make one cup of dried meat. The meat should be as lean as possible. Trim off all the fat. If possible, grind the fresh meat twice. If you don't have a meat grinder, then cut the fresh meat into wafer thin slices about 1/4 inch thick or a little thinner. Then dry the meat using a meat jerky recipe. [JWR Adds: To reduce the risk of Salmonella or E. Coli contamination, meat should be thoroughly salt brined before drying or jerking.] Or you can spread the meat evenly and separately on aluminum foil on a cookie sheet and dry the sliced meat at 180 degrees F for between 6 to 8 hours, or until it is crisp and chewy. Turn the meat strips over after two hours so they will dry evenly on both sides. You do not want to cook the meat. You only want to dry it. If the meat snaps or cracks when bent it is done. If it bends it still contains too much moisture. It it crumbles it is too dry but it can still be used. Grind or crush the dried meat almost into a powder. If you have an electric blender then blend the meat into a fine pulp. (Note: Or you can simply pound dried meat jerky into a powder.)
--Fruit or Berries: Use one or two types of fruit or berries, such as blueberries, huckleberries, currants, raisins, apples, apricots, or cherries. Cut the fruit into thin slices or pieces and allow them to dry in the sun. Or dry them in the oven at the same time you dry your meat jerky. Or use an electric food dehydrator. Grind the dried fruit into a powder but leave some of it a little lumpy to provide for extra texture and taste. Mix the dried meat powder and the dried fruit powder together in a bowl. If you have an electric blender then add the dried fruit to the dried meat in the blender and mix them together.
--Optional Salt: Add a little salt to the mixture to enhance its flavor. Salt will also increase the shelf life of the pemmican.
Other Optional Ingredients: Add a little honey. Or add some minced dried onion for flavor. Or add a few crushed nuts. However, keep on mind that nuts contain oil and that because oil goes rancid, the nuts will shorten the shelf life of your pemmican. When adding these optional ingredients you should begin with a very small batch of pemmican. This will permit you to experiment and determine if the results are agreeable to your family's taste requirements without ruining a huge batch of pemmican.
--Optional Granola Snack: If you have nuts, such as acorns, then a better use for them would be to crush them and mix them with your extra left-over dried meat and dried fruit to make a granola type stack. Granola is easy to mix together if you have the ingredients and therefore it should not be prepared before you are ready to eat it. If you prepare it too soon and one of your ingredients goes bad then it will ruin all your granola. But if you wait until you are ready to eat it, then you can easily detect the bad ingredient and discard it and not put it into your granola mix.
--Animal Fat: Use fresh beef fat or pork fat or bear fat. Animal fat will quickly become rancid and it should be melted (rendered) as soon as possible. Cut the fat into one-inch cubes and melt it over medium-low heat in a small amount of clean rainwater in a clean cook pot. Do not allow it to smoke. If it starts to smoke then you are burning the fat. When the fat is completely melted gradually pour it over the meat-fruit mixture in the bowl and stir until the mixture is well coated and sticks together. Then spread it out like dough and allow it to cool completely. When cool cut it into pieces about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long.
--Storage: If possible, wrap the pemmican in plastic wrap or store it in Ziploc bags or in plastic storage containers with a tight fitting lid. Pemmican can be safely stored for 8 months. If you can keep the temperature between 40 to 75 degrees then pemmican can be stored for several years.
Corn stores best in whole kernels. Once it is cracked, the inner germ is exposed. This decreases its storage life and nutritive value by 80%. Running whole corn through a grain mill at a coarse setting to make cracked corn is quick and easy. A finer setting will yield corn meal.
Unless you have large scale grain bins, one of the most efficient means of storing wheat and corn for small-scale animal feed or human consumption is to buy new galvanized trash cans with tight-fitting lids. If they will be on a damp floor, put the cans up on 2x4 blocks to prevent rust. When galvanized trash barrels go on sale, buy a bunch. Another good storage method is 5 or 6 gallon food grade plastic buckets with gasketed lids. These stack well, but be advised that they are not as vermin-proof as galvanized steel bins or barrels. Determined rats have been known to gnaw their way through plastic food buckets. So if you choose this method, be sure to set traps, and check the buckets once every few weeks for signs of damage. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, do not use utility-type plastic paint buckets. Even if bought brand new these can taint food, because they are often molded using non-food-grade (toxic) mold release agents.
--Grain storage is a crucial aspect of family preparedness. Grain will soon no longer be cheap or plentiful, so stock up!
I'd bet real money that canning lids become excellent barter goods. Another jar sealing alternative is using paraffin wax. It's not nearly as reliable, but it is reusable to a point and may be more available after TSHTF.
--The most up-to-date directions/instructions/recipes for canning is a product of our tax money (one of the rare good results of our tax money). This is a great book, it costs less than twenty bucks and that includes shipping to the continental U.S. If you do a bad job at canning, botulism has a pretty high mortality rate, meaning that it can kill you the first time. Do it right or don't do it at all.
--Thursday January 3 2008 Sources for Free Survival and Preparedness Information on the Internet, by K.L. in Alaska (get entire?)
Project Gutenberg was mentioned as a good place to go for eBooks.
The Smithsonian Institution is another great resource. They have digitized many older books, maps, and documents in their collection.
Wikisource has a nice collection of free eBooks.
One way to search for books no longer in copyright is to use Google Book Search. Check "full view." If it comes up in the search, it can be downloaded as a PDF file.
A good alternative to Google is the Internet Archive which includes books, images, audio, and more. The Internet Archive also hosts the Wayback Machine, which archives copies of an incredible 85 billion pages from the internet of years past.
Over 100,000 free eBooks can be accessed through Digital Book Index
2020ok is a directory of free online books and free eBooks
The British Columbia Digital Library has an impressive Collection, including dictionaries, encyclopedias, and most importantly, the Holy Bible. It also has a Guide to other digital libraries.
Scribd is an online document library of free research articles, eBooks, and other content.
A great resource for home schoolers is the Internet's largest directory of free audio & video learning resources maintained by LearnOutLoud.com.
Check out the postings of Home Schooling On-line Resources on the The Mental Militia Forums, as well as the "Must Have" Books/reference material topic.
More than 3,200 pages related to the U. S. Constitution can be downloaded from The Founders' Constitution
Firearms For any firearm you own or plan to own, you should have a drawing of its Exploded View, which will help identify parts and how they fit together. One of the most comprehensive collections of Exploded Views is the paper edition of the Numrich Arms Catalog, which in itself is a gold mine of information and very inexpensive for a volume of over 1200 pages.
But if you only need certain Exploded Views, there are many places on the internet where you can download them for free:
Gunuts is a good place to start with hundreds of drawings. Another source is The Okie Gunsmith Shop, which is apparently no longer operating, but you can still download drawings and parts lists from its web site.Big Bear Gun Works has another good list. For pre-WWII firearms, check out Gunsworld. For examples of specific firearms manufacturers, see Remington, Browning, and SKB Shotguns
The book, The Defensive Use Of Firearms by Shane C. Henry is available as a download from rec.guns. An enormous amount of additional gun information is available on the rec.guns web site.
There are several good sources for Military Publications: GlobalSecurity.org has a huge collection of Military manuals.
Try Integrated Publishing for access to millions of pages of engineering manuals and documents.
The U.S. Army Materiel Command maintains the LOGSA web site for access to thousands of Army technical manuals.
The U.S. Air Force maintains the Air Force e-Publishing web site.
As mentioned recently, The Small Wars Journal has a Reference Library of downloadable military documents.
The Brooke Clarke web site has a good guide to accessing military field manuals
Surviving War and Nuclear Attack For a basic guide, download How To Survive A Chemical Or Biological Attack.
Nuclear War Survival Skills, along with some other very interesting books, can be found on the Oregon Institute of Science and Medicine web site. This book includes plans for the Kearny Fallout Radiation Meter (KFM). If you have not bought a radiation meter, you should at least download the book for future reference. You can also get the Free Plans from The Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Nuclear War Survival Skills is also available on the KI4U web site as an online book, but not as a download.
The Equipped To Survive web site has some free ebooks, as well as books for sale: Survival, Evasion, and Recovery and U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76.
The Volunteer Center of Marin County, California has prepared A Guide to Organizing Neighborhoods for Preparedness, Response and Recovery which you can copy from their web site.
Medical Resources The Disease Net has a library of downloadable manuals on survival, weapons, emergency medicine, and less serious subjects.
Virtual Naval Hospital is a digital library of naval, military, and humanitarian medicine
The very important field manual, First Aid For Soldiers FM 21-11 can be downloaded here.
One of the best medical handbooks available is the U.S. Army Special Forces Medical Handbook ST31-91B. It can be downloaded free (as well as additional essential guides) from Delta Gear, Inc.
A newer version of the Medical Handbook, plus more great material can be downloaded from NH-TEMS (New Hampshire Tactical Emergency medical support).
The American Red Cross has some of their disaster guides online for download. For most of their material, you have to go to the local office. Some of it can be copied from the Earth Changes Media Survival Tips page.
The Red Cross Book, First Aid in Armed Conflicts and Other Situations of Violence
The UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency book, The Ship Captain's Medical Guide
Hesperian makes available free downloads of its books for medical treatment in primitive conditions. Two highly respected guides it publishes are Where There Is No Doctor and Where There Is No Dentist.
Here is a direct link to the must-have book Survival and Austere Medicine: An introduction. Australian Survivalist Online has several additional Files for downloading.
The Department of Agriculture has a treasure trove of information for free download. This agency maintains The National Agricultural Library, a collection of free information on Agriculture, Food and Nutrition, and other related subjects.
Another USDA web site is the Cooperative Extension Service. Click on the map to navigate to various Extension offices around the country. Don't limit your search to just your own state. Many of them have invaluable information on animals, crops, construction, food preparation and much more for free download.
The USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) offers downloads about preventing plant and animal diseases, among other topics.
The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) offers Fact Sheets about food handling and preparation, and emergency preparedness.
Other Important Reference Resources The classic outdoor guides, The 10 Bushcraft Books by Richard Graves are available on the Chris Molloy web site. Free manuals for electronic equipment can be downloaded from eServiceInfo.com. Another source is UsersManualGuide.com. For Ham Radio and Test Equipment Manuals, the KO4BB web site has Free Downloads, as well as LINKS to many other web sites with free downloads. A few examples of repair information for outdoor equipment are Penn Reel Schematics, and Mercury outboard parts.
Paid Services In the unlikely event that you can't find free information on the Net to fix that generator or whatever you need to repair, there are web sites that charge for information. As a last resort, you can check Sam's PHOTOFACT service manuals, or RepairManual.com. Hopefully, that won't be necessary.
The foregoing just begins to scratch the surface. Some of these free downloads are also available as books or CDs from eBay, Amazon or from some of the survivalist web sites. That is fine. Sometimes it is easier to just pay the money and buy the book. But nobody can afford it all, and downloading gives you access to millions of pages - much more knowledge than you could acquire through any other method.
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--Tuesday January 1 2008 Letter Re: Sprouting Techniques This one Survival And Self-Sufficiency Links has a lot of useful resources, For sprouting I use a section of the new plastic bug screen material for screen doors. I fold the section up into a flat pouch and pour a measure of seed in then pin the opening closed. To make the pouch I staple around the three closed edges. Then, once closed up I dampen the seeds, roll the screen pouch into a loose cylinder and place it into a coffee can covered with the old plastic cover. I keep a little bit of water, plus what drips off in the bottom of the can to keep the internal atmosphere damp. I just make sure to dampen the seeds as necessary, usually checking once in the morning and evening unless the weather is really dry. - TCD
following method works for me with wheat: Sprout your seeds in a Mason jar with a thin clean cotton rag fixed over the mouth by an elastic band. To drain, simply pour the water out slowly. Make sure you do not let the entire surface of the cloth become wet, or it will act as a seal. As long as some of the rag covering the mouth is dry, water should flow out without any problems. To refill with water, lift the jar so the cloth touches the tap while filling. All the best, - Roo
--I have to pack them myself, but have been able to purchase much more this way, I have paid about $14-$17 for 50 pounds of wheat berries, we have stored up about 600 pounds so far of Hard Red Winter wheat, Hard White winter wheat, Soft white winter wheat (for cakes and biscuits, tortillas) and Durum (semolina) for pastas, steel cut oats, pinto beans, rice and bulk spices..we make a bulk order once a month. with the price of fuel, we try to order as much as we can afford to make the trip count. I have collected all my white food grade plastic buckets for free from our local Wal-Mart's bakery (an hour drive) an I add diatomaceous earth [DE] to all to keep the pests at bay...if using the DE make sure it is food grade, it also works to worm farm critters, the bonus being it worms the animals and also cuts way down on the fly population on the back end. We put it on our outdoor cat and no more fleas, he is one happy kitty.
I wear a dust mask to not breath in the dust, as I am mixing it with the grains. If you have eaten or used a pre-prepared biscuit mix, then you have eaten DE. thanks for all your hard work on this site! - KW
--Sunday December 30 2007 Time and Energy Efficient Cooking, by KBF
I wish to share some valuable information on my personal experiences with the use of two cooking devices which I incorporate into daily homemaking practice when I am attempting to conserve on water and on fuel usage. Both of them are extremely time and energy efficient.
The two kitchen products which have earned their weight in silver in my home are my pressure cookers, and my newest kitchen toys, which come from an old Asian origin and cooking concept, the thermo cooker pot.
I have and use several sizes of pressure cookers. I chose the pot size for use for the job I'm performing based on the fill capacity of the product I am cooking in it. The pot capacity should never be over 2/3rds full. The food is liquid pressure cooked on the basis of requiring very little water or liquid and a minimal amount is lost and released as pressurized steam, thus it cooks evenly, thoroughly, and quickly. Time savings average about one half compared to the usual on the stove top methods. Fuel savings are dependant on the time required for the recipe. I use this method for large vegetable batches, and large cuts of meat, like roast cuts or several chickens and get a finished product that is tender to cut with a fork. My very large pressure pots are mostly used for canning purposes to put up jars of volume batches of seasonal produce, meats, and jellies. Using the pressure cookers overall cuts my actual cooking and canning time by one third, compared to using the open pot boil methods. When you are putting up hundreds of jars, this time efficiency becomes necessity. I have had a few mishaps however over the years. They were character building learning experiences of what not to cook in a pressure cooker. Beans, rice, and whole grain cereals need to be constantly monitored, as the small needle outlet from which the pressurized steam escapes becomes easily clogged, and when it does you have now created a bean bomb! If you're like me and are multitasking in or out of the household, constant sitting to a pot is not time efficient or possible. I have discovered my next favorite device as a result of this need to cook my one pot meal favorite dishes and also to simultaneously free myself to leave to do other equally important jobs. This device allows me to leave the house and come home hours later to a safe, hot cooked meal.
--The thermo cooker pot is actually two pots, one (the cooking pot) is inserted into a second thermo insulated pot and is sealed with a hermetic seal lid. The pots can be found in Asian market stores, online, and from high end kitchen and industrial supply houses and are sold by numerous makers. Some makers sell their pots to other distributors who stick their retail labels on them. More expensive in this case is not necessarily a better pot. Key points of its success for your needs are to consider the following issues when searching to procure one. The pot set needs to be constructed of excellent quality stainless steel in order to maintain heat conductivity and easily clean and withstand staining. The floor of the pot must be constructed of no less than two air-insulated layers. The inner pot's volume size needs to be one that will compromise and accommodate the majority of food dishes you normally prepare, if you desire to own just one size. Think in volumes of servings somewhere between how much soup, stew, arroz con pollo [rice and chicken], or how much hot grain cereal you make in one batch. Waste is non productive and expensive ultimately in time and money. Thermo cooker pots work on the principals of applying fast radiant energy cooking to your prepared dish by using the inner cooking pot on the stovetop. The recipe chosen must be able to be brought up to and kept to a boiling temperature for at least 5 minutes, the longer you can boil it the better. Secondly, this inner pot is covered and then immediately placed inside the slightly larger external thermo chamber pot, it is tightly sealed, and taken off the radiant source to finish the cooking process over the next hour on its own kinetic heat requiring no external fuel source. I leave mine in the warmest location in the house. The food contained inside the thermo chamber continues to cook by conductant heat for the next hour or so at a heat temperature gradient loss of kinetic energy which gradually decreases over 6 hours of time and maintains itself at a warming temperature up to 8 hours. The food will then remain warm to +/- 160 degrees up to 8 hours, this being dependant on normal external ambient room temperatures. I have tested my unit with a thermometer after 8 hours, and it made the grade in 65 degree ambient room temperature. This can be a boon to use in fuel and time conservation modes during TEOTWAWKI. It can also be used inversely chill perishable foods safely for consumption for 6 to 8 hours. Think summer mayonaise and egg based salads or cool fruit salads or transporting fresh farm pot cheeses without ice.
--I have now mastered my pots usage to include making yogurt, soft goat cheeses and tofu successfully by not boiling the milk or soybean curd but by bringing it slowly up to incubation temp for the culture I am using, and then using the thermo pot to finish the process of maintaining the heat source. In the past I used an old wide mouth thermos bottle to do this method but it did not hold enough volume for my family's consumption or barter needs. We also now wake up to fresh hot maple wheat berry cereal in the morning by preparing this before retiring for the night. I have used the thermo pot now on different stove and fuel sources, including wood burning and get pretty consistent result. I have used it even away from home to travel and on hunting trips using the butane camp stove. I have boiled the recipes required water, and dumped in our packaged dehydrated camp food, to either wake up to warm eggs and sausage or to come back from the hunt to eat a great hot meal.
I hope this info will help all the cookies create more efficiency in their survival preparations and also to help them find more enjoyment time to read JWR's great postings and books! Have a blessed and bountiful New Year!
What am I preparing for I think the economy is going to blow out sooner than later. Like it would not surprise me if it happened in the next 30-to-60 days. How bad it will be and how long it will last?. No clue but history shows major wars start with major economic troubles.
preparedness is more about skills than it is about money. I have a lot of wealthy consulting clients that have heaps of supplies and tools, but I have my doubts about their ability to actually survive when things get Schumeresque. When I ask them about firearms training, they often say that they have the money, but that they don't have the time to attend. What good is a large firearms battery if...
Also I just finished reading this book."Long Term Survival in the Coming Dark Age" by James Ballou. It covers how to successfully bury your stuff, what to bury, how to bury it, and what skills one could use in a post SHTF scenario. I found it to be an interesting read. Although I already know the basics of survival caching. Still a nice overview. A good Cliff Notes-type book. (Clear, precise and straight to the point )
in her area is (besides her boyfriend) other people who have the the same kind of forward planning outlook, and to network with them. Michelle is an EMT in training to be a paramedic--exactly the set of skills many of would need WTSHTF. Yes, she does want to have a BOB ready to go, but if she were in my area I'd set aside food and goods for her in exchange for her professional services. In fact, I'd start a fund for the equipment and medical supplies that she would be trained for but might not want to have to lug around everywhere. Perhaps the makings of a small clinic can be set up before the Big Day. Sometimes we forget that what we have isn't as important as what\who we know. Keep up the good work, Mr. Rawles!
For instance: While her employer does nothing special for the employees at the holidays, mine does a catered dinner at Thanksgiving, and gives each employee a $20 gift card to the local chain grocery. And about 1 month later, another dinner for Christmas, and a $100 cash bonus. I take both the card and the cash, and use them for our preps, be it beans, bullets, or band-aids. I get something we need or can use.
During the year I do small odd jobs for family and friends, and any cash they give me for that or for gifts goes to buy preps. As for storage, space at our house is at a premium, but we do the best we can with what we have,and we look for useful things and space for storage wherever and whenever we can. For instance: {Locally]. we have a annual [curbside] junk [collection] week.
--Saturday December 22 2007 While not every Latter-day Saint is fully prepared, a percentage somewhere in the mid-teens have done at least a 72-Hour Kit (Bug-out Bag). The Church's preparation web site was simplified as most were overwhelmed when trying to prioritize to prepare. The focus is now on a Three Month Supply of normal items
In support of this, the Church now offers [at cost] a Family Home Storage Starter Kit. Like everything we as the dominant two legged creatures on this orb learn..Food Storage and Preparedness is "line upon line and precept upon precept."
The following is quoted from the Provident Living web site:
"The family home storage starter kit may be used to teach family home storage principles and help individuals get started with longer-term food storage. The kit includes materials that teach the importance of a three-month food supply, water storage, and savings and 6 cans of longer-term food supply items.
--For those people with a budget crunch (almost everyone), suggest that they look into Angel Food Ministries. There is no income qualification, the food is of excellent quality, and there is probably a church near most people that is a part of this ministry. About two months ago, my wife took the Angel Food menu and priced it our at our local supermarket. The brands were the same and the price at the supermarket came to just under double what Angel Food charges. This isn't charity. Rather it's a wholesale program that allows a family to buy a considerable amount of their monthly groceries at a lower price. I recommend that folks at least go to their web site and check it out for themselves. Cordially, - Jonas
Another way to save on long distance phone bills is to use one's cellular phone on nights/weekends where minutes are unlimited, although this is dependent on having service and the carrier. I have Verizon
"Rambo" Actor Sylvester Stallone Talks TEOTWAWKI and Burmese Genocide in Interview |Main| Letter Re: Communications in Times of Crisis
--local Asian Market. A 50 pound bag of rice sells for under $25. One can easily how much further your survival dollars can actually go when spent correctly...my wife use to think I was nuts I learned a long time ago not to talk politics, guns, etc. with her and in turn she would not ask why each week I throw five extra cans of stew in the cart that never get eaten. However; during hurricane Rita...I am the dad and I must take this kind of thing seriously because if I don't then the sin is 100% on my shoulders.
The following are some of my suggestions on how to protect yourself from the ravages of inflation:
1.) Buy in Bulk
Buy most of your staple foods and groceries at a discount or "warehouse" type stores such as Costco or Sam's Club. Don't overlook the "close-out" and "dented can" stores.Stock up on non-perishable items whenever they are on sale: thing like light bulbs, paper products, bar soap, house cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, lubricants, and so forth. As long as you protect these supplies from theft, moisture and vermin, they are better than money in the bank. (Again, money in the bank is being eroded by inflation.) These are tangibles bought at today's prices, that you can use for many years to come. Here at the Rawles Ranch, we are still using up some spices, light bulbs, and aluminum foil that I bought at a military commissary in the early 1980s--at what now seem like absurdly low prices. My only regret is that I didn't buy more of them! This approach to stockpiling was described in the modern-day classic book "The Alpha Strategy" by John Pugsley. (Download this free book and read it!)
2.) Learn to Barter
Barter, by its very nature, shields you from inflation. Instead of using depreciating paper tokens as a means of exchange, you are directly exchanging a tangible for another tangible, or a service for a tangible, or a service for a service. As I've written previously in SurvivalBlog on several occasions, I do advocate stocking up on extra items for barter. However, it is with the proviso that you do not embark on buying goods dedicated for barter until after you have your family's essential beans, bullets and band-aids squared away, following a well-balanced logistics plan.
Here in The Un-named Western State (TUWS), there is a lot of bartering that goes on, quite informally. I see it all the time: Cartridge Reloading for Snow Plowing, Eggs for Honey, Firewood for Horse Training, and Zucchini for just a smile and a thank-you.
To be useful in barter, choose items that have most or all of the following seven attributes 1.) Have appeal/usefulness to the majority of the citizenry. 2.) Be immediately recognizable. 3.) Have longevity. 4.) Be easily divisible. 5.) Be relatively compact and transportable at reasonable cost. 6.) Have consistent quality. 7.) Have limited availability. Let's discuss each of those briefly, in turn. (get entire?)
3.) Learn Several Valuable (Barterable) Skills
Every family should have at least one home-based business that they can fall back on, on the event of an economic recession or depression. Concentrate on skills rather than goods for barter. The beauty of having skills to barter, is that most of them don't require much raw material. So, unlike barter goods, you will never "run out". By extension, it is best to have a skill that requires very little raw material. A profession or skill that also requires a specialized tool set is fine. However, if the skill also requires delivering a factory-made device to complete each transaction, then you might consider doing something else. (For example, installing burglar alarms might be profitable as long as you have a source of resupply, and as long as the power and telephone networks are functioning. But in a grid-down TEOTWAWKI how long could you continue running such a business?)
--Avoid developing a skill that appeals only to wealthy customers for discretionary spending. Those are the purchases that will be delayed or skipped altogether in an economic depression, Hence, shotgun checkering and engraving are poor choices, but septic tank pumping is a good one.
Concentrate on a business that can be operated without the need for grid power. It is notable that most of the businesses in this category existed in the 19th Century. Who knows? Maybe buggy whip makers will make a comeback in the Second Great Depression
Ideally, you should have two or even three supplementary income businesses that you can fall back on to pay your mortgage and to buy necessities, if you lose your job. Depending on the severity of the coming recession or depression, some home-based business may thrive, while others won't. It is hard to predict which businesses will do well (although we have some clues based on the experience of the 1930s,) so there is safety in redundancy.
4.) Learn How to Pinch a Penny
Here are some suggestions (in no particular order), some of which I've borrowed from "The Encyclopedia of Country Living" by the late Carla Emery. (The Memsahib and I both highly recommend this book.)
Distinguish your needs from your wants.
Research and do some comparison pricing before any purchase of more than $10. Do extensive comparison pricing before any purchase of more than $100.
Never buy on impulse. Plan your purchases well in advance, do your homework, and be patient.
Refer to back issues of Consumer Reports magazine (at your local library) before making a purchase of a major appliance
Develop the habit of dropping by thrift stores, second hand stores, used book stores, and pawn shops.
Find out on which days particular items are discounted at thrift stores. (Often by a system of colored price tags.)
For big ticket items, do lots of comparison pricing via the Internet. If you decide to buy locally, then bring the price print-outs with you, to use as "ammunition" when you dicker.
Buy off season. Buy winter clothes in summer, and vice versa. Buy livestock in October and November, when owners are facing expensive hay purchases if they "winter-over" their stock
Use a clothes line instead of an electric clothes dryer.
Utilize the MSN Autos Web Page data for the best local gas and diesel prices. This is particularly important when you re-fill your cans and drums.
Heat with wood. Cut, haul, split and stack the wood yourself
Buy your guns and ammo at gun shows, not at gun shops. Learn how to dicker for the best prices.
Buy at farm auctions, but beware of impulse purchases and run-away bidding. Make a list of your maximum bids during the preview and and then stick to it religiously. Never bid emotionally, and never jump on on the bidding for an article unless you planned to bid on it before the auction began.
--Build/make/sew things for yourself rather than buying them factory-made
--If you use any national brands, then clip coupons. Keep your coupons well organized (many folks like to use an accordion folder and they keep it handy in their car), and don't lose track of coupon expiration dates.
Buy most items used, rather than new. Never buy a new "big ticket" item like a car or truck "factory new". Be sure to refer to Edmunds.com before making any vehicle purchase, to make sure you aren't getting a "lemon:" model or model-year. If you are buying a used vehicle worth $5,000 or more, then it is worthwhile to pay $8 for a vehicle history report.
Negotiate prices with merchants. It is amazing who is willing to negotiate. (But I've had no luck in talking down bridge tolls. I'll keep trying.)
Spend some of your Saturday mornings at garage sales and yard sales. Dress down when you go, and don't be afraid to negotiate for better prices.
Check Craig's List and your local "penny" or "nickel" classified ad papers frequently for free and bargain items
Avoid fashion trends. Dress and drive modestly.
Find out when there is a curb-side "free hauling" day offered by your local waste disposal contractor. If allowable by local law, cruise through the neighborhoods the night before the scheduled collection with your pickup or trailer. This is the way we found the majority of our small livestock cages.
When buying things from private parties or small businesses, offer other items or your skills in barter.
Watch for free tours at educational places like factories and museums.
If your community has a well-established local currency, then utilize it to the utmost.
Plant a large vegetable garden. Get plant starts for berries and other perennials from neighbors
Cancel your newspaper subscriptions and carefully limit your magazine subscriptions. These days, there is so much news and information available on the Internet free of charge (you are looking at some of it right now) that hardcopy newspapers are for the most part expensive dinosaurs. Two notable exceptions: 1.) If you are a consistent and well-organized coupon clipper. If that is the case, then you might want to get a "Sunday paper only" subscription.), and 2.) Subscribing to a small town weekly newspapers in your retreat locale. Reading one of these papers regularly is important for developing local intelligence and for "fitting in" by being knowledgeable about local geography, personalities, events, politics, and lore.
Change your own oil and make most of your own car repairs.
Buy a food dehydrator. It will pay for itself many times over.
Learn how to do your own canning. Once you have, you'll have no excuse to ever buy another store-bought jar of jam, jelly, or applesauce.
Buy dairy goats or a cow. Sell or barter the excess milk, or feed the excess to your chickens and/or hogs
Cut out needless expenses. (Like those $4 lattes at Starbucks and $20 trips to the movie theater.)
If you have a mortgage at a rate that is more than 1.5 percent higher than the prevailing rate, then consider refinancing. Just beware of any hidden costs and of course avoid Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs.)
Swap CDs and DVDs with friends and relatives or check them out from your local library rather than buying new ones.
Develop a budget, and stick to it.
If you have a credit card then pay it off in full every month. No exceptions. Don't fall into the easy credit trap. Remember, the card is only in your wallet for convenience, emergency expenses (such as car repairs when travelling), and as a means to gain frequent flier miles or points for programs like gasoline purchase rebates. If you recognize that you don't have sufficient self control, then leave your credit card(s) at home--or cut them up.
Make detailed lists of all of your expenses, and scrutinize them weekly. Look for ways to reduce expenses.
Shop around for the lowest car/health/home/life insurance rates. A few hours of research on the Internet could easily save you $500+ per year.
Unless you know for certain that you want a book as a permanent reference, then use the public library or try to find it online. Don't overlook the inter-library loan system.
Get the free Skype software, and encourage the friends that you call often to do likewise. This will greatly reduce your long distance phone bill.
Take advantage of free or low-cot straining available from organizations like the American Red Cross and FEMA. (Just don't be ware of any socialist/statist nonsense that they try to feed you along with the training.)
Learn how to repair small appliances and engines.
Don't buy store-bought meat. Hunt for or raise your own.
Handload your own ammunition.
--Get out of debt and stay out of debt. Paying interest is throwing money away. Forestall making purchases to avoid indebtedness. Instant gratification creates decades of debt.
Proviso #1: Do not attempt to save money by foregoing carrying insurance, or by forestalling any expenses that have an impact on health, hygiene, or safety. For example, if your windshield gets cracked beyond repair, then replace it. If your chimney needs cleaning, don't delay cleaning it. (But of course buy your own brush and rods and learn how to do the job yourself.) If you have a toothache, don't delay in seeing your dentist. (But ask about possibly paying in barter when you do!)
Proviso# 2: Don't be Penny wise and Pound foolish. If you are a highly-paid professional, then take into account the value of your time. For example if you are an anesthesiologist, you should probably find a few more billable cases rather than taking up handloading.
Proviso# 3: Don't skimp on education. That is an expense that will make you money in the long run.
In closing, remember (and recite frequently) this old adage: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
---a girls story: age 8-80: Monday December 17 2007 Letter Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget
Mr Rawles, Having read your reply to S.'s letter "Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget" I must say you made my day! It made me realize that I am much better off than Itthought and on the right track. I am one of those weird (smart?) people who was raised in the city, but for some reason, never belonged. From earliest childhood, I was always "preparing" long before I really knew what for. In other words, I was not your typical "raised in captivity" child. I learned to sew at nine, and spent a lot of time making sleeping bags and fancy wall tents for my Barbies, then set up elaborate campsite in the backyard, complete with chopped firewood, and water storage systems. (I did say I was weird, remember?)
I also used to spend weeks playing dolls with my sister and friends, but not like most girls. We had a favorite scenario in which we ran a huge orphanage which sprung into being because of some horrible disaster. The disaster didn't matter. What mattered was being able to care for all our babies with no power or outside help. (I nearly set the basement on fire once during these episodes) Later when my family moved to a suburban/rural area, I was finally able to indulge more aspects of my survivalist side. I got into horses. And I mean I lived and breathed horses. Not just the typical horse crazy girl stuff...no, I had to practice loading my severely injured (or dead) friends onto my horse, practiced packing all sorts of gear on my horse, etc.
I began target shooting as a youngster with my father (who also took me on long hikes from the age of six on) but during my teen years I learned how to reload, thanks to a wonderful like-minded guy. We were kindred spirits, and spent hours reloading during the week so we could shoot for hours on the weekends. He taught me how to field strip a .45 Model 1911 in under 45 seconds blindfolded, among other things. ( Can't you just see the headlines if some igh school kids were seen doing this today?)
I began gardening, canning and dehydrating at 16. My mother thought I'd lost my mind when I came home all excited about the fact that the owner of the stable where I kept my horse said I could plant a garden in the old chicken pen. I was sure busy that summer.
Fast forward 6-7 years: I am now married and having babies. After living in dinky houses in town, I convince my husband to buy a house on acreage. We find a wonderful little 800 square foot house on five acres about 20 miles from where we work (which was in a very small town about 20 miles from a large metro area) And the cycle started in my childhood continued.
I raise horses, goats for milk and make cheese, cows for meat, chickens for eggs and meat. I try my hand at rabbits, successfully building a huge herd of breeders, and selling fryers commercially for a couple years before a family disaster forced me to sell. My garden is bigger, and I can enough to see us through every year till the next garden. Pigs are raised on leftovers. We heat only with firewood. Life is busy, but good.
Later, when the kids are bigger, I get into a sport that seemed custom-made for me. Endurance riding. We had moved from our five acre place to a larger spread which bordered on State land, and I began spending hours riding alone for miles every day of the week. (I quit working outside the home when my kids were 2 and 4 years old. I didn't see the point of paying someone else to raise my kids.) Even some of my endurance friends say I take it to the extreme. I always pack everything imaginable with me: Pistol (and rifle during hunting season) first aid kit, feed for my horse, food for me, shovel, saw, you name it, it's on my horse or myself. Everything except a cell phone. Nearly everywhere I ride a cell phone doesn't work, so why bother? I feel they just give a false sense of security and prevent proper survival thinking.
Fast forward 20 years: I divorce and start over. My kids are grown and I am thoroughly pleased with how they turn out. My daughter learned early on how to do oil changes and tune-ups on the old Ford pickup trucks I always drive. My son took his skills further. He can rebuild any old rig from the ground up. They both know a lot about farm animals and gardening, and both are avid campers. Both shoot, though my daughter can't hold a candle to her brother. He is by far the best shooter I have ever seen. I once watched him shoot a starling through the neck from 75 yards, offhand in the wind with a .22 [rimfire rifle]. The bird was sitting at the top of a 75 foot fir tree, and my son told me beforehand where he was going to hit it. Recently my kids have both come to the conclusion that their survival would be well served by learning even more of Mom's skills. Both (and their other halves) are joining me in the spring to become more proficient in gardening, canning, and we will be raising cattle and pigs together.
I am very lucky to have bought a wonderful 13 acre place with a delightful but tiny 130 year old homesteaders cabin. We have two year 'round springs. We heat with firewood cut here and on many of our wonderful neighbor's places. We have a small orchard, a huge garden (about 3,000 square feet, with room for more) and tons of pasture. I say we because I was very lucky (and smart) to have married again. And I married that wonderful man from my high school years who taught me to shoot and reload! My kids adore him, and though they live in town, they are out here all the time. My husband and I have a very good skill set between us I don't think there is anything we can't do, from blacksmithing to soap-making and all manner of other skills esoteric and arcane.
Conclusion Emergency preparedness is about making sure a drastic change in society negatively affects you as little as possible. Coffee can help ease such a transition, if simple preparations are made in advance. As with all things, you should prepare for the day when you can't get it anymore, and avoid addiction to it at the same time.
dec.13.2007 JWR Replies: Water should be first and foremost in every family's disaster planning. I would recommend that you start by expanding your stock of stored water, as space permits. Well-washed used plastic soda pop bottles will suffice. Add 1/4 teaspoon of freshly-purchased plain liquid sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) bleach to each two liter bottle. (Be certain that hypochlorite its the only ingredient in the bleach that you buy--do not buy bleach with added scents or other ingredients.) Next, construct your own pre-filter and filter. (Later, when you have more cash, you should buy a more portable Katadyn water filter.)
Instead of buying hay, we swing a scythe for much of it. That is definitely sweat versus dollars! (OBTW, we are currently looking for a horse-drawn hay mower that our horse "Money Pit" can pull.) We either raise or hunt for nearly all of our meat, and we are ramping up to provide the majority of our produce in our garden. Yes, this all takes time. So does butchering, canning and dehydrating after harvest. But consider this: Not only are we pinching pennies, but we are also learning useful skills and building a small scale self-sufficiency infrastructure that will be invaluable WTSHTF... Preparing for a week long event will benefit you no matter how long the event lasts--be that an hour or a month!
In the same way that preparing for a short duration inconvenience will help ease you through the initial stages of any long term event, preparing for TEOTWAWKI automatically prepares you for the lesser events.
Getting Out: Plan a fire evacuation route and rendezvous point. Establish emergency contact procedures so that should your family become separated, you each know where to go and who to contact to link up again. This will serve you well for any event which requires exiting the building.
Provssions: The week of MREs [that D.C. mentioned] is a great start. Should a short term inconvenience scch as Katrina hit "the city" you may need to provide for you family for two weeks or more.
Testing: Something you are probably familiar with from your defensive training is the idea of testing your gear. The same holds true for all your gear for the whole family. You could start by setting up the tent inside the apartment.
All of these "tests" will open your eyes to opportunities to improve your supplies.
Two final thoughts – I recommend that everyone stock up on a year's supply of over the counter medicines. Even if you can't get antibiotics, flu remedies may come in real handy if there ever is a pandemic type issue. If a contagious disease is on the crowded streets, the last place you want to be is a pharmacy in downtown. The same holds true of the regular flu season too.
And finally, 9/11/2001 could easily have been a nuclear event instead of a [hijacked] airliner event. Those of us in the east are downwind of most [nuclear] targets in the US . The free online book "Nuclear War Survival Skills" is a must. Print it and read it. Know how and when to take shelter from fallout. You need not have a shelter in a basement.
8. It provides everyone in the local area with an immediate and helpful answer to anyone who is in need of assistance. No one ever has to say, "No, I can't help you." Instead everyone can provide directions to the nearest charitable organization. 9. Beggars will quickly learn that it is fruitless to beg door-to-door in a local area because anyone who has anything to give has already donated it to the local charitable organization. 10. When the total amount of available charity in an area is not adequate to sustain all the families in that area that need charity assistance, then some of those families will realize it is time to move on to another area where the overall conditions might be more favorable.
In closing may I suggest you read the book written by Pitirim A. Sorokin called "Man and Society in Calamity." It contains historical information about how starving individuals have actually behaved during previous hard times. A condensed summary of his book can be read at my web site: Man and Society in Calamity - Summary. In short, "...Tasty Bite food is all-natural. It remains fresh for 18 months without preservatives or refrigeration. It's all in the technology we use. The food is cooked and filled into a uniquely designed multi-layer retort pouch. The pouch is then sealed and the food inside is sterilized, using very high heat and pressure. The sealing and the construction of the pouch ensure that no bacteria or other degrading factors can impact the food. This process also ensures greater retention of the food's original aroma, texture, nutrients and flavor. The retort pouch has a sturdy four-layer wall. Each layer provides a barrier from damage and keeps the food safe: The outermost layer is polyester (PET). The second layer is nylon. The third layer is aluminum. The innermost layer that comes in contact with the food is a food-grade polypropylene..."
I hope you find this helpful! - CA in Oregon
When dispensing charity to neighbors in a long term TEOTWAWKI situation I would suggest sticking to teach a man to fish type items like fish hooks/nets, game snares, seeds, etc. Because of their lower cost, here at the ranch we store nearly all bulk grains/legumes/honey and various nitrogen-canned dehydrated foods.
--Given the recent discussion about canning, it seems like sealed tin cans would make an effective Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) barrier. Why not can some inexpensive FRS radios, small transistor radios, and other electronic items in a standard soup-size can? Can some lithium batteries, and you'll be all set. By the way, it would probably be a good idea to make sure that the lid and can have good electrical contact. Some cans might be lacquered/coated, so it might be wise to check the lid/can continuity with an Ohm meter.
properly stored food item could be good to consume well past its 'expected' expiration date. Sometimes discoloration (for instance) is not a show stopper. Do you or your readers know of some simple 'freshness test' to ensure that a given food product is good or not (or is that a stupid question)? I can start with what I gathered from the Internet:
- Baking powder Freshness test: Mix 1 teaspoon with 1/3 cup of hot water. It it foams vigorously, then it still has rising power.
- Baking Soda Freshness test: Mix 1 1/2 teaspoons in a bowl with 1 teaspoon of vinegar. It it fizzles, then it will still help leaven a food made with flour when it is cooked.
- Oil (olive) Freshness test: An unpleasant smell or taste indicates the oil is rancid or oxidized.
- Shortening Freshness test: Stored too long it will go rancid and develop a bad taste and odor.
- Spices (grounded) Freshness test: Smell a ground spice to check if aroma is potent.
- Vinegar. Vinegar sold commercially is pasteurized. Therefore an unopened container should last indefinitely when stored in a cool and dark place. Once opened however, vinegar should last about 3 months if tightly sealed. Freshness test: Any sediment that develops can be strained out. Vinegar should be clear and look clean, not cloudy. If mold develops later, throw the vinegar away.
Spare parts for firearms are heavily greased (sometimes placed in vacuum packed plastic, depending on size and function of items). Radio parts, electrical parts, portable survival kits, gold/silver coins, sewing kits, seeds, vitamins, medical supplies, small tools, copies of important documents/pictures/owners manuals, etc.
Call it overkill but some items will have 6+ barriers to insure that if I don't dig it up for 20 years, it should still be intact. (Grease, plastic, (some times desiccant or O2 absorbers depending on the item), the can itself, a can coating (I have experimented with polyurethane, rubber car undercoating, shrink wrap, and wax (like you would wax a leg hold animal trap).
This is then placed in either a 5 gallon bucket or ammo can. Ammo cans are sprayed with rust neutralizer, sprayed with car undercoating and then the rubber gasket is sealed (often times with more desiccant or O2 absorbers inside). Ammo cans are then sometimes placed in a 5 gallon bucket. 5 gallon buckets are merely sealed with mastic or some kind of caulking. Most of the time I place the ammo can or 5 gallon bucket in a suitable industrial garbage bag and bury.
I label all the items on the outside of the can with either the original labels or something I printed out. If I use a permanent marker, and later wax or polyurethane the can, the labeling can sometimes run or dissolve.
On several larger items I have performed some of the barrier practices and placed them inside a 30 gallon plastic barrel and sealed it. One contains nothing but animal traps, another tools, and yet another full-sized cream separator with parts. Why go to all this trouble? Unfortunately, our getaway stands between the good old farming families and a few families that have made meth and marijuana their main sources of income. Things of value left around tend to walk off.
After all that, I "hope" that my caches or pantry will be around when I need it most. Let me know if you or your readers think I have left any other barrier method out of my system?
A.T. in Illinois (land of humidity and precipitation)
--JWR Replies: Thanks for those suggestions. One important note: Seeds should never be vacuum-packed. They are living organisms, and they will die in a vacuum. Air canning or bag sealing is fine but don't vacuum can or pack them!
preparations need to also prepare a place away from home so they can G.O.O.D. and not have to face these unhappy choices. On a different note: Some years ago, I read an article in a Farm magazine reporting that most large-acreage farmers didn't have their own gardens. The article was praising the virtue of having a garden and quoted a few farmer's wives waxing poetic about their little plots. I couldn't believe it--farmers being encouraged to do a little self-help farming! So, you may escape to your retreat only to find neighbors stopping by for a handout even there. Better start preaching self-reliance a little more vigorously,
1) The primary benefit of the smoking process is that it coats the meat (most commonly pork) with a smoke residue that discourages flies. Flies are notorious for laying eggs on hams. These eggs develop through larval stages. The most widely known larval stage is, in the southern U.S., called the skipper. Skippers will readily ruin a country cured ham. Infestations of skippers are hindered by the process of smoking the pork in smokehouses. 2) The secondary benefit of the smoking process is that it imparts a delightful aroma and flavor to the meat that is enjoyed by many people.
Salt licks were, at one time, so critical for acquiring salt (and naturally attracting game) that they still appear on maps. Some towns even carry a name associated with salt, such as Salt Lick, Kentucky.
always edible plants all around you, no matter where you are. Usually within arms reach! Case in point: The Pine Tree.
Pine needles can be easily brewed into tea which contains many nutrients and vitamins. Pine cones can be roasted over a fire (you did start a fire already, right?) to open the cone and access the seeds inside. In a longer term situation…those same seeds can also be ground into a type of course flour. One can also east the inner bark of Pine trees if nothing else is available. And that's just the common Pine tree, which grows almost everywhere! Speaking of Tree bark: remember that Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) was originally derived from teas made from the inner bark of the Willow tree. Anyway, you get the point. A little study on the matter can go a long way toward making you self sufficient as far as food is concerned, by enabling you to supplement your dry-stores (you do have food stores, right?) with fresh greens providing vitamins and nutrients year round. Linda Runyon's "Of the Field" Web Page WildwoodSurvival.com/plastic is too permeable to retain the CO2 exclude oxygen for more than a few months at a time. I have recently acquired some oxygen barrier bags and oxygen absorber packs to protect the contents better.
I bought some grain in 5 gallon tin cans, not well sealed, in the early 1980s. I stored them in the warm, humid conditions on the east coast for 20+ years. After 10 years, I tried grinding some of the red wheat and my Mom made bread with the whole wheat flour. The taste was slightly off, but not so that it was inedible. After 20+ years, I tried boiling some to make a pilaf (boiled red wheat pilaf is one of my favorites). Again, the flavor was off, but not much different than after 10 years. I think that whole oats would store as well as the red wheat. My folks wouldn't permit us to throw out the wheat and are slowly eating it. The one can of other grain (I think that it was rye) that I bought with the lot was infested with weevils.
--Rancidity of oils is a free radical oxidation process. Generally speaking, free radicals are toxic. I think that it is safe to say that rancid oils are too, at least to some extent. Our bodies are adapted to manage small level of free radicals, since they are present all of the time. In fact, one of the main benefits of exercise, and to the extent that it is beneficial, alcohol consumption, is that they both create toxic free radicals in the body. The body response to oxidative stress is to express enzymes that counter the damage so effectively that the net result is beneficial (at least in moderation). The effect of calorie-restricted diets is similar.
I once ate some rancid wheat germ, being too young and foolish to realize that it was spoiled. It gave me the worst headache, by far, that I have ever had. Caution with rancid fats is strongly advised. Sincerely, - John Galt
So you can see that it will take nearly twice as much rolled oats to get a similar nutritive benefit of 1/2 the amount of dry steel-cut oats. Thus it will take more storage space for the same amount of caloric value. Additionally, to consider this solely from a price point of view does not pan out either.
--As for storage time, the shelf life of a steel cut oats is much longer than any processed version, as rolled oats is more prone to meal-worms or becoming rancid. If a person really wanted to get serious, just buy the whole-grain oats and use your grain mill to prep it. The ultimate test is to prepare the same amounts of rolled and steel-cut for breakfast, two days in a row. You'll find yourself anxiously awaiting that mid-morning coffee break, after having eaten the rolled oats! - Mark in Chicago
JWR Replies: I think that most of what you have stated is correct, although the glycemic numbers go out the window once you apply a big glob of honey (as I do) or a heaping teaspoon of brown sugar (as most folks do). Where I take exception, however, is with your comments on storage life and rancidity. Meal worms are an issue only with grocery store packaging. When stored in plastic buckets with either oxygen absorbing packets or when using the dry ice method, both products are equally resistant to attack by insects or insect larva. Rancidity is primarily caused by fat content. Steel cut oats are higher in fat than rolled oats. The higher fat content of steel cut oats makes them more prone to going rancid than rolled oats. But, admittedly, at the same time the nutritional value of rolled oats drops a little faster in storage than steel cut oats. The end result is that the practical storage life for either product is about the same for both in cool climates. But in hot climates, where rancidity is more of an threat, rolled oats are preferable.
--Where does all of this reasoning about processing alternatives leave us? It leaves us missing two essential points. Let's back up a bit:
1.) The real key to self sufficiency is having both storage foods and the ability to grow your own grains and vegetables. If you are worried about nutritional value, then nothing beats freshly grown! We should consider storing non-hybrid seed of equal or perhaps greater importance than food storage. Growing a garden and raising livestock are the main things that will provide our sustenance in a very long term grid-down scenario.
And,
2.) If you have plenty of fuel for cooking on hand (to allow for longer cooking time of minimally processed oats) then it is probably best to store whole oats. (But again, with whole oats rancidity might be a problem in hot climates.) Any processing that breaks the outer hull reduces the potential storage life and starts to reduce the nutritive value of grains, including oats. Storing whole wheat of course necessitates having a home mill, so you can cut your own oats in small batches as needed. So in addition to a nice stone burr mill for grinding wheat flour (which you probably already own), you will also need a traditional kitchen coarse grinder (such as a Quaker City Grinder). Several types of grain mills and grinders are available from Lehmans.com. and Ready Made Resources. Traditional coarse grinders can often be found at garage sales for under $10. I once bought one for just $2. With prices like that, you should probably buy several. Leave one of them set up for grinding meat, and another with the proper plates installed for cutting oats.
Heat sealed packages are fine for ammo. Just don't vacuum seal them.
Friday November 2 2007 Letter Re: Eating The Food That You Store
my mottos is: "Eat what you store and store what you eat." I don't suggest going on a Spartan diet, just for the sake of living entirely on foods that store well. But regularly using a good portion of your storage foods has multiple benefits, such as:
1.) Efficient rotation.
2.) Minimal waste due to food passing their expiry dates.
3.) A digestive system that is accustomed to storage foods. (This represents one less stress to go through, WTSHTF.)
4,.) Cooking expertise with storage foods. Cooking skills do not develop overnight. Two recommended books are Cooking with Home Storage and Making the Best of Basics
5.) Economy. If you eat foods that you buy in bulk, you will be eating cheap, in some cases amazingly cheap. For example, consider that rice in small bags sometimes sells for $4 a pound, but if bought in 50 pound sacks and repackaged it costs just a fraction of that. JWR Replies: The advantages of steel cut oats are marginal. They do have slightly more nutritive value than rolled oats, but certainly not enough to justify their substantially higher price! Rolled oats are typically steamed, rolled, and then re-steamed and finally toasted dry. The steel cut variety are less heavy processed, so they have just a bit more nutritive value. They also supposedly are a bit more flavorful, but I guess my "Fresh Off the Turnip Truck" palate is not very sophisticated, because I can't taste much difference. Oh yes, I should also mention that when cooked steel cut oats also swell up more than rolled oats.
All in all, I recommend buying rolled oats for storage. If it means the difference between supplying one family versus supplying two families for the same money, then I'm all for quantity! With rolled oats, you typically get more twice as much for your money. And BTW, from what I've read, there is no significant difference in shelf life between the two.
Saturday October 27 2007 Letter Re: Phases of the Moon and Deer Hunting
James, Ungulates (cattle, deer, antelopes, camels, deer, goats, pigs, sheep, as so forth) daily routines are keyed to the moon. People's routines are keyed to the Sun. The moon cycles each 28 days, the sun in 30 or so days.
Each day, the sun is always somewhere near high noon, i.e. 50% past sun-up, at 12:00 sun time (duh). However, the moon can be at 'high noon' in moon time at any given hour, i.e. at 9:00 a.m./3:00 p.m., etc.---because the moon has a shorter cycle.
Recent satellite telemetry studies on collared white tail does and bucks across North America established hard scientific proof of deer movement. Each morning, deer will move from low ground to the highest grounds and hide during daylight in the highest and densest locations. Each night fall, the deer will move to the lowest and most open areas. That is an established scientific fact, as gleaned from the telemetry studies. The scientists surmise the basis for such movements is that deer see exceptionally well at night, i.e. they enjoy a visual edge over the predators on the dark nights. However, during day time hours, both predator and prey see equally well; therefore, deer hide in the dense stuff in daylight. Additionally, deer have a keen sense of smell and because warm air rises, at day break deer go high and hide, thus accomplishing concealment and the ability to sniff out on the rising thermals any potential predatory threats.
Now, because deer are ungulates, i.e. cud chewers, they must chew their cud 'X' number of hours a day or they die. Most of this is done while bedded down (not sleeping though). They cannot chew their cud while in transit though. The telemetry studies confirmed that for 18 hours a day, deer are bedded down, i.e. the net sum of the time the deer are either up high on the ridges during daylight or in the open flats down low at night.
The telemetry studies established also that the deer 'feed' actively, i.e. their breakfast time/dinner time/ lunch time, when the mood is directly over head (i.e. when it is high noon in moon time) or when the moon is directly underfoot, (i.e. midnight in moon time).
This 'active feed time' is only about two hours each day, i.e. they fill their bellies twice daily and chew their cud the rest of the time, allowing of course the time it takes them to move to and from feeding areas and the time they actually 'sleep'. Unlike people though, deer snooze about 3-4 hours, chew their cud at regular intervals when awake, take time to travel at daylight to higher ground, and take time to travel to lower ground at dark----depending on the 'moon-time', the deer will 'actively feed' along their given travel routes.
Interestingly, and keeping the theory and scientific fact in mind, with a 'full moon', deer move less at daylight and stay in dense cover, especially when it is at night or the early a.m. hours. So to all who hunt with gun/camera, knowing the forces of nature that dictate animal travel patterns, one can surmise when and where animals, both predator and prey, can be found. Yes, predators' travel patterns can be determined by tracking 'their' dinner plates as they move around the landscape!
There is an excellent book that goes through all of the above, titled Moon Struck; Hunting Strategies That Revolve Around the Moon, by Jim Murray. BassProShops sells this book. Tell your hunting buddies about this and they will thank you beyond words! It is the ultimate resource for tracking the moon phases for the very short interval of deer season. Thanks! - Matt B.
--Thursday October 25 2007 US Food Riots Much Closer Than You Think, by Robert Felix
The only people who know about this are those who are involved in the production and distribution of the food supply and there are very, very few of them number-wise. And most of them haven't put two and two together yet, either."
JWR Adds: Do you have plenty of stored wheat and a wheat grinder for your family? If not, then contact any of our advertisers that sell storage foods, pronto. These include: Freeze Dry Guy , JRH Enterprises, Ready Made Resources, Safecastle, and Best Prices Storable Foods. (Be sure to also store plenty of rice, beans, and honey.) Have you stored a good assortment of heirloom variety (non-hybrid) garden seed that is less than three years old? If not, then contact the Ark Institute or the Seed Savers Exchange.
Dumping of US Dollar Could Trigger "Economic September 11" (Posted August 29, 2005) »
--Sunday October 21 2007 Letter Re: Plan B -- Your Bug-Out Route
Mr. Rawles, In the event of a natural or manmade disaster you may need to retreat despite extensive preparations at your base of operations, whether in suburbia or in the mountains. You may find yourself in a desperate situation; facing forest fire, fallout from a malfunctioning nuclear power plant, terrorism, organized bands of looters or an invading army. Where will you go? How will you get there? What is your route? Whether you have been preparing for years or weeks you need a Plan "B". Identifying the threat will help you determine the safest route and mode of transportation to a pre-selected alternative location(s); a location with several months of water, food, fuel and shelter. If you need to leave your base of operation quickly in an event like a forest fire or malfunctioning nuclear power plant then a pre-planned route on back roads with a well stocked bug-out vehicle may be the answer. But, what happens if the roads are unsafe or impassible? With good backpacking equipment or properly outfitted bike and bike trailer you can carry about two weeks of food, tent, sleeping bag and other necessities. What are you going to do after two weeks?
I pre-planned my backpacking and biking bug-out routes with the intent of avoiding populated areas and main roads. These routes are predominately on logging roads, hiking trails and/or through the bush as circumstances dictate with a pre-positioned supply cache approximately every 25 miles. Close to each cache location are pre-selected camping spots located in the thickest and most remote cover available with a nearby water source. Each cache would provide a minimum (1) week re-supply of food and white gas fuel (no fire, no smoke) allowing me to continue on to my destination or re-group and/or recuperate. Every 50 miles or so I would have shelter building materials, tools, ammunition, water filter, fishing and trapping equipment in addition to food and fuel to allow for a longer stay. One cache would include an old canoe for a major river crossing or travel. Flexibility in a plan "B" could provide you with a plan "C" and "D".
I plan to use 5 gallon plastic buckets with Mylar or plastic liners inside heavy plastic 55 gallon trash drum liners buried at least two feet below the surface of the ground at cache locations. I plan to use a mix of foods; store bought goods, meals ready to eat (MREs) and individually packaged freeze dried backpacking meals. These locations would be accessible if traveling by vehicle or bicycle or foot route(s). I consider these caches to be "throw away" and would continue to add new buckets/new caches yearly as time and money allow. When considering a plan "B" destination I chose a location several hundred miles away should circumstances require relocation from my home region with the built-in option of returning home along the same route.
Here in the northern tier of the country winter travel must be considered a possibility, being an unprepared refugee in the middle of a sub-zero cold snap would not be pleasant. Being prepared means layered winter clothing, winter footwear, winter camping equipment and plenty of white gas or unleaded gasoline stove fuel to melt snow or boil water. Expect to carry a 60 to 80 pound pack. My plan includes spending a winter (December thru March) away from my base of operations. A bug-out route /cache plan may allow you to take control of your situation and reduce your chances of becoming a refugee, internee or casualty in a desperate situation. Seeking the Lord God Almighty's protection, salvation and will for your life through prayer in Jesus' name will allow Him to take control of your situation whatever the circumstances are!!! - Jeff S. in New Hampshire
JWR Replies: Don't feel overwhelmed. Just make a "list of lists" and start preparing systematically.
--Friday September 14 2007 A Trip to the Yucatan--Observations of Mayan Primitive Living, by Michael G. (get entire!?)
"They may not have all of the conveniences that we are used to, but they have shelter and food and children, and perhaps they are happier than we are."
8.12.07 So I did a search on "Thermos cooking" and found that Kurt Saxon has published an online article about this topic. (I had looked at his front page before but hadn't dug much further.)
This may be a valuable item for a Bug-Out Bag (BOB) or a get-home-bag.
sheep!:Electric fences can be even less obtrusive. For Grid Down preparedness, you would of course install a photovoltaic (solar) fence charger, such as the Parmak brand. Be sure to follow the fence charger installation instructions carefully, especially those regarding grounding rods.
JWR Replies: I recommend the Engel brand 12 VDC refrigerators sold by Safecastle. A modest-size photovoltaic power system, such as the 520 watt 4-panel packaged "cabin" system produced by Ready Made Resources would provide plenty of power to run a compact Engel DC refrigerator (such as Engel's 22 quart capacity MT27) plus a flashlight battery charging tray and a couple of small lights.OBTW, for some other useful suggestions on insulation,
How much of your preparedness stockpile should you set aside for charity? Generally I'd recommend at least a tenth. That is in line with the tradition of tithing, which has its roots in the Old Testament law of Tzedaka.The Bible says that you provide for your immediate family first, then your extended family, and then your local community, and so on.
I also think that your average criminal element and the people that panic WTSHTF can be overwhelming for those of us that live in large cities but [that] have retreats on stand-by. Hence my preceding statement. If you do live in a large urban area, you don't have any time to waste dealing with family and friends that chose to ignore you and their own obligation to be prepared. Hours and even minutes could be what saves you and your immediate family--[the difference between] surviving or becoming someone's victim. That's my 2 cents.
Why are we storing all these beans, Band-Aids and bullets? Thanks. - Joe
--JWR Replies: I believe that in the near future we will see a deep economic depression similar to the 1930s, with massive unemployment and major stock market losses. It will most likely be triggered by the current Liquidity Panic, or perhaps by a Dollar Panic that will follow soon after. Crime rates will increase substantially, particularly in urban and suburban areas. This depression may last a decade or more. But the chance of a complete societal collapse (with long term failure of the power grid and total breakdown of law and order and long distance commerce) is not very likely. There is perhaps a 10% chance of that. Be ready, nonetheless. Your storage food may come in very handy if you lose your job. Tuesday August 28 2007 Letter Re: Alcohol Stoves
Jim, I found this very cool German-made alcohol stove called the Turm Touring.
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-- Sunday August 26 2007 Letter Re: Ezekiel Mix--a Complete Survival Food
Jim and readers,
Many of you that have read the Bible remember Ezekiel in the Old Testament. Ezekiel 4:9 says "Take thou unto thee wheat, barley, beans, lentils, millet and fitches (spelt), and put them into one vessel and make thee bread thereof."
This diet sustained Ezekiel in the desert for 390 days. A modern day interpretation of the Ezekiel recipe calls for the following: 20 parts wheat, 12 parts Spelt, 4 parts Hulled Barley, 2 parts Hulled Millet, 2 parts lentils, 2 parts Pinto Beans, 1 part Great Northern Beans, 1 part Kidney Beans.
Modern Food scientists have found that Ezekiel Bread is surprisingly complete in nutrients, containing all 8 essential Amino Acids. It only lacks the vitamin provided by sunlight that converts cholesterol in the skin into Vitamin D, which is then absorbed into the bloodstream.
Ezekiel Mix can be ground into flour to make Ezekiel Bread, used to make Soup, Stews or Porridge. Ezekiel Flour can also be added to other bread flour recipes to enhance nutrition.
You can make your own Ezekiel Mix, or do as we do. We purchase the mix from Walton Feed. They sell Ezekiel Mix in 25 pound bags, #10 cans with oxygen absorbers and Super Pails. (6 gallon air tight plastic food grade pail, containing the mix in a sealed mylar bag with oxygen absorbers.)
To grind the mix into flour you must use a grain mill. Because of the beans in the mix, you cannot use a stone mill because it will plug up the stones.
Ezekiel Bread Recipe (makes three loaves)
5-1/4 cups of Ezekiel Flour
or,
Grind in a Grain Mill:
2-1/2 cups of Wheat 1-1/2 cups of Spelt 1/2 cup of Barley 1/4 cup Millet 1/4 cup Lentils 2 Tablespoons Great Northern Beans 2 Tablespoons Kidney Beans 2 Tablespoons Pinto Beans
Measure into large bowl:
4 cups of warm water, (note if you have chlorine in your water it may kill the yeast and bread may not rise) 1 cup honey 1/2 cup of oil 2 Tablespoons of yeast
Mix and set aside for 5 minutes until frothy
Add 2 teaspoons of salt and all the flour
Mix with spoon until stretchy and elastic, about 7 minutes
Since this is a batter-type bread, you must use bread pans. Pour into 3 greased bread pans in even amounts.
Set oven to the lowest temperature and let rise 15-20 minutes. Level should be within 1/2 inch of the top of the bread pan. Do not let it rise any more or you will have a major gooey mess in your oven. Do not open oven or bread will fall from the cool air.
Turn oven heat up to 350 degrees and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Enjoy!
When making stew, simmer for 8 to 10 hours on low heat or use a pressure cooker for 3 to 4 hours. You can also soak the mix overnight.
You may wish to consider storing extra Ezekiel Mix to hand out as charity as it is inexpensive and easily stored. - PED
Permalink ---Tuesday August 14 2007 Four Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet Goose confit and duck confit were made as a way of preserving the meat from birds slaughtered for foie gras. Birds are plucked, cleaned and sectioned, the fat from around the internal organs is saved and the skin is left on the carcass. Pieces are then liberally sprinkled with salt and whatever other spices one might wish to apply (thyme, rosemary, black pepper and garlic are all good choices). The heavily salted sections are then held overnight in a cool place, for most that would be the fridge but traditionally it would be either a root or wine cellar. The next day, the excess salt is shaken off and the pieces are cooked in a dutch oven over low heat for 2 to 3 hours uncovered. The fat will melt and should be allowed to get hot enough to gently boil, but not hot enough to smoke. As the fat cooks it will clarify. When it's finished, strain half the fat into an earthenware container, let the fat cool until it begins to firm up then lay the pieces of cooked meat on the fat in a single layer and arrange them so they don't touch the sides of the container, now pour the rest of the fat over the meat. Cover the container and leave the confit in a cool place for up to one year. Confit can be reheated or eaten cold, additionally the fat is commonly used as either a spread or to fry potatoes in. Domestic birds fattened on grain (they do not have to be force fed) will have more than enough fat but wild ducks and geese probably won't yield enough fat to cover the whole bird so, either supplement the fat with lard or just preserve the thighs and legs. I noticed that the Walton Feed web site has a description of meat potting, that's basically the same process minus the salting step. So if salt isn't available you might be able to get some short term preservation with just the fat. If all of this seems like a big hassle there is a French foie gras company, Rougié, that sells canned duck confit. Rougié says the shelf life is 4 years. They also sell big cans of duck and goose fat, but I've never seen those on this side of the Atlantic. - B. from New York
JWR:
Something anyone with a couple of cows or more found indispensable was a cream separator in the 30's Particularly where it pertains to making butter.
James:
---To get to the survival bottom line for me first – the long-term storage of food oils and pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and health food products and the long-term storage of live local heirloom seeds plus the short-term storage of venison, beef and fish have set many of my equipment investment decisions here on the farm. I believe the most critical pieces of survival gear are two very efficient electric chest freezers and a small efficient electric upright freezer and a way to power them inside a survival envelope. My freezers are electric because I would not have a propane/ammonia freezer anywhere within the survival envelope. My propane generator and propane freezer are in a barn about 400' away (not one used for animals, but one used for equipment) with an underground propane tank. If a propane/ammonia freezer explodes or leaks ammonia, it will most likely to render a shelter unusable for a critical period of time (days not hours). My propane freezer and propane generator sit unused in the far equipment barn waiting for a time when power consumption may become critical. While the price of the wire alone from the barn to my pump and generator was $1,500, it was worth every penny for long-term security and short-term quiet during power outages. Recent solar electric pricing changes have switched me even further toward electric with propane planned mainly for convenience and the possibility of a nuclear winter.
My main long-term food oil stored is frozen 31.5 oz. (1 qt.) plastic-jarred LouAna coconut oil (92% saturated) bought at Wal-Mart or Sam's Club. I also store a smaller amount of frozen unsalted clarified butter that I have processed myself to add taste to my diet when I feel it is critical. Most of the Essential Fatty Acid/food oil academic studies of saturated oils and cholesterol have used lard (39% saturated) as the "straw man" saturated oil.
--Monday August 13 2007 Letter Re: Food Reserves and Summer Kitchens
Our freezers are stocked with meats, fish, butter and other perishables such as chocolate bars, nuts and dehydrated fruit. We have a commercial grade vacuum packer and everything that goes into the freezers is vacuum-packed and labeled. Hint: When vacuum-packing fish, freeze it before packing,
Hoping for the best, planning for the worst. -beter 1y-erly than 1dy late. Friday August 10 2007 Two Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet It's a company in Solon, Ohio, called "Oils By Nature". They produce their own oils with the lowest amount of refining
It helps the cream to rise if you can let the milk set out at room temperature for a while, but it will be easier to skim when it's cold. Also, use a large jar (gallon if you have one) with a wide mouth. The soured milk left after skimming the cream can be used in baking, made into cheese, or fed to pigs, chickens, or dogs.
It also helps to have goats with high-fat milk -- Jim mentioned Nubians, and it's true that of the large dairy breeds they have the highest butterfat content. But Kinder goats, Nigerian Dwarfs, and the crosses of Nigerian with large breeds (for 'mini' goats) all have higher butterfat than any of the large breeds of goats, except possibly for Boers, which aren't usually milked, but can be. A quart jar of Kinder goat milk will have an inch of cream on the top in just a couple of days, and a gallon jar may have two or three inches after a week. That's about a quart, enough to make a good amount of butter.
The other solution to the fat problem that I didn't see mentioned was geese. Geese were the traditional fat source for people who didn't use pork, and also among some who would use pork if they could get it but found it easier to feed geese. Geese require much less grain than pigs do, and have much better-tasting fat than sheep or goats (the fat from sheep and goats has other uses, though, such as tallow for candles -- because it's a hard fat -- or for soap making). They are also very hardy, able to survive down to 100 degrees below zero, according to an extension agent in Fairbanks who I once talked to. They are good watchdogs, too, though are a little too aggressive to have around small children. - Freeholder
--Wednesday August 8 2007 Three Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet it was informative but I felt it left out a very viable source of animal fat: The Groundhog. While it may be a rodent, it only eats plants and an occasional insect. The meat is good but greasy since groundhogs actually hibernate.
Thanks for posting the fat question. As to pressing the seeds for oils, wouldn't it be better to keep them as seeds? I think that they would last longer and they can be planted. Also, shortenings like Crisco are not only not useful as fats to the body but outright harmful.
last 8-10 years if properly packaged, and if it has preservative anti-oxidants in it.
OliveOilSource.com, olive oil suffers no ill effects when frozen. I need some advice on storing fats and oils. I have read that the shelf life these essentials can be extended by keeping them in an air tight container, and avoiding exposure to heat and light, but even then the shelf life of
I found this link on making your own seed press out of a metal frame and a three ton jack. It also gives instructions on how to dehull the sunflower seeds with a grain mill, as well as winnowing them with a vacuum cleaner. I hope your readers find this information helpful. - Tim R.
One of the TEOTWAWKI issues we must contend with is where to get our oils and fats. Historically, sources of sustainable fats and oils included dairy, animal fat, nuts, vegetables (olives), seeds and certain legumes (peanuts). L
This leaves plants like peanuts and seeds such as sunflower.legumes and seeds supply essential fats and oils!cooking oil and shortening must be added to their storage program readers that avoid pork, I'd recommend raising sheep or emus. Emu oil is amazing stuff. Anyone that has ever butchered an emu (as I have) can tell you that there is a tremendous amount of oil stored in an adult emu. Fish raised in ponds are another possibility. Anyone considering taking up aquaculture should consider raising at least one particularly oily species, such as shad, just as a source of fish oil.
Egg yolks are another important source of fat. This is yet another reason to keep a laying flock. Growing peanuts and sunflower is an option in much of North America, and olive trees is viable for folks that live in mild climate zones. Do you have an oil press? Hunting isn't much of an option Rabbit meat is particularly low in fat. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, a diet consisting of mostly rabbit meat will lead to slow starvation. Venison by itself is quite low in fat. so pork-fat added.
A diet that has too much lean meat can lead to both severe digestive problems and even malnutrition. If you plan to depend heavily on wild game or livestock that you raise, then be sure to provide for some bulk fiber in your diet. To provide this fiber, you must ether sprout it, grow it in your garden, or store it. Don't overlook this aspect of preparing your survival larder!
minutes to read this article: Guts and Grease: The Diet of Native Americans. American Indians were famous for hoarding fat. Bear grease and fat from beaver tails were both particularly sought after. (And BTW, they have multiple uses including lubrication, medicinal uses, and even as a source of fuel for lighting.) One of my favorite books is The Last of the Mountain Men, a biography of Sylvan Hart (a.k.a. "Buckskin Bill"). Hart was an Idaho
every 18 months completely rotate your supply:. Donate the unused portion of your stored stock of cooking oil and shortening/lard to your local food bank--or if it has gone rancid, set it aside for making biodiesel, candles or soap. (Speaking of soap making, be sure to stock up on plenty of lye (sodium hydroxide). Until about three years ago, lye was sold in the US as drain cleaner, under several brand names including Red Devil. Sadly, lye is no longer widely available in the US
The other thing that you can do is buy a case or two of canned butter, once every three years.
shortening, its shelf life can be extended by re-packing it in Mason-type canning jars. Some brands of lard are still packed in all-metal cans, which provides a longer shelf life. that you must either; a.) relocate to an area with abundant wild game, or b.) buy more acreage so that you can grow sunflowers and raise swine or cattle. To be the best prepared, you should pursue both.
Friday August 3 2007 The Coming Hard Times--Wake Up Call!, by Dr. T. 1. Become fanatical about saving money and stocking up on anything that will store for a long time. Get it organized, and labeled, and learn to manage it well. 2. Be quiet about this and find a way to do this without calling attention to yourself. 3. Think about the failure of the power grid and what you will do if you are out of electricity for a long time — maybe months or years. Gensets, fuel, wind generators, solar collectors are all great, but think about what you will do to keep your windows blacked out if you are the only one with electricity. Talk about a lure for looters. Watch out! 4. Learn to speed read - I have way too much to read, but try to spend one to two hours everyday reading and learning all I can. 5. Make sure you have some extra beds - even if you have to put them in the garage or barn. We already have an adult child and her husband living with us due to a bad landlord, and it does change the dynamics of your household. 6. Learn to garden — find someone who has some dirt and learn to grow vegetables and fruit (BTW, my dearly beloved tomatoes are fruit). Go to www.seedsavers.org and www.gardeningrevolution.com — both good sites and there are other sites out there, too. Eat what you grow and learn how to store it - can, freeze, dry, vacuum pack it or whatever else you can figure out how to do. Also, learn to save seeds. This may actually save your life during the coming trouble. 7. Become an active member of a relatively small local church. If you do not understand this, you are in serious trouble. 8. If you cannot control your addiction to television, throw it out or give it away. I am not kidding. 9. Learn to fix everything you can. If you do not have a knack for fixing things, get to work and learn all you can. This is not an option. When doing this, stock up on parts and supplies for everything you own or want to own. 10. Buy things that will last a long time. I am driving a 20-year old M - I am very biased, but I have found that some of the best medical thinkers are veterinarians, dentists, and nurses. 14. In spite of my passionate dislike for television, we are stocking up on clothes, books (www.half.com), movies, toys for our grandchildren, board games, outdoor games, and more. 15. Learn not to be too imperialistic. I am the head of my household, but I am not a dictator. I am a fairly high ranking officer in the guard,
16. Be careful about what you eat. The big food companies do not actually put the true ingredients on many labels and we now consume so much processed food it is frightening. www.gardeningrevolution.com and see how you can spend a few hundred dollars and get one, two, or three of Len Pense's raised beds operational
--Wednesday August 1 2007 Mental Preparations for Survival, by jc
For many people preparing to survive has become an obsession; a pursuit placed above all else in their lives. Others feel as if survival prep should be more of a priority if they could only afford to do more. Still others feel as if they may have already gone overboard in their preparations. Preparing for survival after TEOTWAWKI can make you feel overwhelmed, under-supplied, overspent, under-funded, over-your-head, or under-the-gun (no pun intended). There are those who have the ability to purchase a retreat, stock it with supplies and equipment for a year or more, and have enough to share with those in need at will. They expect to support parents, siblings and spouses, nieces and nephews, grandkids, and several families of friends, and have already stocked their retreat with all the food, water, and supplies for all of them to start completely over. Most of us, however, fall far short of that ability, and hope that we can simply prepare for ourselves and our immediate family. Please understand, I am not criticizing those who are able to prepare in this way. That's what this country is all about – the chance to make and keep your fortunes. As Christians we don't believe in luck, but we do believe in hard work and good fortune. We can only hope that most, many, or all of these fortunate people have the Christian outlook of sharing with those in need. Whether you are a preparedness guru (PG) or a "newbie" (NP – for New Preparer), getting prepared to survive after any disaster, or even a total collapse, seems like a daunting task. PGs know just how expensive and time consuming preparing can be, and many NP's have become discouraged as they begin to realize what they are facing. It is for that reason that mental preparedness (MP) is so important. Mental Preparedness involves many aspects and the first and foremost of these is an individual's Spiritual preparation. Are you a Christian? Have you accepted Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior? Are you ready to die if that's what God's will for you is? Christianity – that is, evangelical Christianity (Christians who believe that Jesus died for their sins, was buried, and rose again as a living Savior sitting at the right hand of God) offers living hope for our future. We worship a living Savior, one Who has gone before us to prepare a place for us in heaven. If you have not already done so, accept Jesus into your life as Lord and Savior. It's so easy to do. Any good Christian can help you or go to www.sbc.net and click on the small green link at the top of the page "I want to know Jesus." Until you make Christ real in your life the rest of the preparations are just going through the motions. Once you are Spiritually prepared, the next step is prayer. Ask God to guide you in your preparation, to give you insight into the survival mindset, to lead you to the resources you need to get your mind ready for the preparation task, and to guide and help you in the decisions that must be made to prepare yourself and your family for survival. Ask Him how you can become a better Christian and person through this process – He will show you if you are open to receiving the answers. Finally, ask the Lord help you communicate the urgency and necessity to others to prepare to survive. Is there Biblical mandate for survival? For preparation? Yes, God has given us instructions in His Word for survival and preparation. Following is a list of Scriptures for you to look up for yourself rather than quoting them here for brevity, but please take the time to look up each one and understand what God is trying to tell us, tell you, about being prepared and surviving. Proverbs 6:6–11 – tells us that we are responsible to do the work of preparation while we are able. 2 Thessalonians 3:10 – basically says that if you don't work, you don't eat. Of course that does not include the sick or the aged; those should be taken care of by family or Christian charity. It plainly teaches that indolence or laziness should not be rewarded. In other words, if we could have prepared for the crisis but we didn't, we can't expect anyone else to take care of us. It is a principle that applies in every-day-life or in crisis situations. 1 John 3:17 – 18 – exhorts us to help others in need. Yet, you can not help someone who is in need if you haven't prepared for or can't help yourself. If we are to obey this verse then some sort of preparation is not only called for, but required. Some great thoughts from another (unknown) Christian author: " With regard to fleeing from life-threatening situations - what one brother sarcastically refers to as 'hidey hole' theology - Both Peter and Paul escaped from life-threatening situations. Peter fled from Jerusalem after his miraculous deliverance from prison by the angel. Paul was let down over the walls of Damascus when a plot against his life was uncovered. Both of these were escapes from the physical persecution that arose against them because of their testimony and preaching of the Gospel. Are we supposed to believe that God is only interested in preserving His people if they are in danger as a result of their following Jesus? That if the shortsightedness or greed of the world, places Christians in danger, that somehow that is not sufficient reason to escape in order to continue to serve, worship and love God and those around us? I can't speak for others, but I know my purpose in preparing for eventualities. It is not merely to save my hide; it's not worth that much anyway; but to do what Christians have done throughout the centuries, namely to maintain a living witness to the redemptive love of God in Christ, and to continue nurturing the Church which God has called me. Some Christians believe that it is wrong to leave your urban or suburban home to find a rural setting where survival would be more likely. Again, this is called, 'hidey hole' theology. Yet, after the stoning of Stephen much of the Church in Jerusalem dispersed precisely to preserve their lives, to continue to care for each other and spread the Gospel in the new surroundings. God called Stephen to martyrdom, but not the whole Church. The Church in Rome met in the catacombs. Some lived in the catacombs. Was that 'hidey-hole' theology? When Jesus began his ministry He read from Isaiah in the synagogue, 'The Spirit of the Lord is upon me....This day the Scripture is fulfilled in your hearing.' They wanted to kill Him, but He 'passed through them.' He escaped. Was that 'hidey-hole' theology? In 1 Kings 17:8 - 16, Elijah instructed the widow of Zarephath to give him her last cup of flour and last bit of oil. He told her don't be afraid, God will provide. God caused there to be a daily miracle provision of flour and oil for her survival. But another widow and her son in 2 Kings 4: 1 - 7, were instructed by Elisha to gather many containers, for God was about to provide for her needs. There was an immediate miracle of multiplication of the oil, part of which she was told to pay off her debts with, but the remainder she was to store. Thus, there was preparation, provision, and then storage in order for this woman and her son to survive. Sure, the provision was miraculous; but her use of God's provision was quite normal and mundane. Nor did Elisha criticize her for storing her oil for her family's future needs. [This author adds: it could be that your provisions may be provided in an equally miraculous fashion.] Am I stupid, sinful and unbiblical because I want to see that my family survives? Am I supposed to believe that God doesn't want me to do anything about the survival of those whom I love, whom He has given to me? Have I no responsibility? Do I just stand with my eyes scrunched closed and say, 'OK God, you take care of me and mine?' Survival is not the ultimate value or goal for me or my family. It never was or will be. 'Glorifying God and enjoying Him forever' is. If God wants me and mine dead, so be it, and may He be praised forever. But I don't see that glorifying God and staying alive are mutually exclusive, especially when He seems to be graciously giving us advanced warning precisely so that we may continue to survive, so that we may serve Him and others. And you, O mortal, do not be afraid of their words, though briers and thorns surround you and you live among scorpions; do not be afraid of their words, and do not be dismayed at their looks. Ezekiel 2:6 The clever see danger and hide; but the simple go on, and suffer for it. - Proverbs 22:3. A closing thought (on Spiritual Preparedness): "When Noah built the ark, it wasn't raining." Get your life right with God and prepare for tomorrow.
Many other aspects of survival require mental preparation as well. Too many people believe that because they witnessed some depravity that man had wrought on an individual, or on others, that they are now prepared to go through the hard times a severe crisis or even TEOTWAWKI can bring. Witnessing a tragic car accident, a shooting or murder, a knife fight in a bar, a shootout with the police, or even trying to help a rape victim can not begin to prepare you for the mental anguish of long-term crises. For the few who have had to kill in self-defense or seen the starvation and disease in some Third World country first hand as a missionary, these only begin to understand. If you served in combat – Iraq, Afghanistan, Korea, Vietnam, or WWII – and you had to kill or be killed, you had to care for a wounded and dying fellow soldier, or you had to survive as a prisoner of war, you understand some of what will be faced in an end of the world situation. Many of you may have loved ones or know someone who suffered with or still suffers from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) and can understand the mental stressors the individual endures. Unless you have been through it too you can't really comprehend all that this individual, these individuals, is/are going through. So how do we prepare ourselves for what is to come? Everything starts with planning! And, it all hinges on organization. If you're a NP, start a list of preparations that need to be made. Do research on the Internet to find lists of the things you will need to do and what you will need to have on hand. Don't be overwhelmed by the lists of supplies – all of these things can be obtained one item at a time. Remember, if you start today you're still ahead of the majority of people. Continue to remind yourself that whatever you do today to prepare, won't be a need tomorrow. Prepare your mind through the research you do. Read everything you can get your hands on about preparedness and survival, but read with a "grain of salt" so that you can discern good advice from bad. Read books and articles that are recommended by friends or reliable sources. Even other people who are preparedness minded can get and give bad advice – proceed with caution, but proceed. One reliable and trusted Internet resource is www.SurvivalBlog.com, written and maintained by Jim Rawles. He is also the author of
SOPs are nothing more than written directions to cover every contingency for every person. Make sure you have instructions written for all members who will be with you in a disaster situation. Different situations call for different SOPs – try to cover all the bases for at least 72 hours. This is not something you will accomplish overnight or even in the first few weeks. As you study and prepare you will continue to rewrite and edit your SOPs. Some may take years to finish while others may never be done.
(Bug-out-Bag). This is a bag – a backpack, a duffel bag, a pillow case (although I think you will discover that a pillow case just isn't big enough) with everything in it you'll need to survive for three days to one week (or more).
Continue to move down your Priority List is similar fashion and you will suddenly find yourself short of space to store things and your mental attitude eased by the fact that you are becoming prepared much quicker than you ever thought possible. Remember, organization is the key. Once you begin to buy items for prep or survival you must be organized. Lists are required, and keeping up with them is paramount for making sure you get what is necessary. It is very easy to buy things twice (or even more) if you are trying to keep up with your purchases by memory, or to think you bought something and miss the chance to buy it. Use lists!
Monday July 30 2007 Letter Re: The Global Vitamin C Shortage Underscores Dependence on Red China
benefits. Think about buying a food dehydrator. They are reasonably priced. K Little by little set aside money and acquire items you will need. Keep an extra supply of first aid items on hand. Don't forget some of the less
In a full scale crisis, drawing attention to yourself and home with a loud, light-producing device is not going to be very smart, but when power goes out and the masses aren't yet rioting in the streets, a generator will be nice to have.
in numbers. Seek out others who share your values and have skills you lack. How can you help each other? Build relationships and share ideas. Educate others, but be careful as you can imagine the funny looks you might get if you start prophesying doomsday. And guess who's doorstep they'll be standing on come crunch time. I am a firm believer that the more people around you that are prepared, the better off all of us are. If your neighbors can take care of themselves, then it's more likely your preparations will be preserved in the event of crisis.
Securing Your Castle I'd like to take a moment to discuss security, specifically firearms. If you have studied survival even a little, then you are aware that arming yourself ranks high on the list of recommendations. Perhaps some of you share my reluctance to build an armory in my home. I have children, and being married to someone who is strictly against guns makes security a particularly difficult element in my survival preparations. While I recognize security as an absolute must, I have reservations about keeping a device designed to kill in my home. Ironically the reasons not to own a gun are the very reasons why I feel I should own gun. The reasons are aged 2-11, not including the Mrs. In a volatile scenario that could spiral out of control; I would feel helpless without weapons to protect my family. All the stockpiling of food and water will be futile if some thug can easily take it from you (and maybe your lives with it). If you do decide to own a firearm (or firearms), don't flaunt it and please educate yourself and practice. Keep a chamber or trigger lock in place and store the ammunition in a different location if necessary. In addition, don't rule out other ways of defending yourself. Albeit, less formidable, they are less expensive. These include pepper spray, knives, batons, stun guns and martial arts. I don't think I need to remind people that these are mostly ineffective against attackers with guns, or even large groups of unarmed evil doers. However, they may prove useful in that they are very portable and can be used in less dire emergencies. Deterrence in the form of dogs, fencing, motion detectinn, alarm systems and location should also be considered. Protection from those who intend to harm is imperative and yet another item that isuuseful even today.
Back to Basics Take an assessment of your skill sets. What knowledge do you posses that would be of value in a crisis situation? Don't worry, if needed, your survival instincts will take hold, but some basic skills can make you an asset and will help you survive. Develop and hone these skills now. Start simply; make your own bread, catch your own fish, grow your own vegetables, prepare healthier, less processed meals. I enjoy beer, I brew my own. It's rewarding and I've learned much from it. Learn basic plumbing, carpentry and e It seems that all too often, in our frenzied lifestyles, we focus all our energy on skills that will get us fat paychecks and forget the simpler but more important things. Get back to basics. Slow down. Simplify. If something isn't adding positive value to your life, eliminate it. Many preparedness items can be fun and done as a family. Go camping, take hikes, etc. If you have kids, consider home schooling them. Most importantly get to know your children; spend time with them.
--It's Up to You You can make self sufficiency a way of life without going "off the deep end," so to speak. Taking action will not only give you peace of mind, a sort of insurance policy, but also can improve your life in the meantime. Many corollary benefits will emerge. Here are some that come to mind: Less reliance on outside institutions, money saved, healthier eating habits, time spent with your family. Regardless of the future, you'll be teaching your children to be prepared, to think logically and independently and not to have a lazy, consumerist attitude
--Sunday July 22 2007 Letter Re: My Adventure in Growing Wheat, by Carl in Wisconsin
Sir: Regarding Carl's question of cleaning and harvesting grain. First get some horses and a binder, it's much easier than by hand.
Regarding proper use of a scythe: It is largely a matter of gaining a rhythm. Proper rhythm will allow you to cut all day without much effort., merely swinging your body. To exaggerate, swing the scythe to catch between 1/2 and one inch of grain/grass. At the last second jerk it toward you. In practice, if you have a good swing, it more or less does the jerk by itself. I have found that doing it properly will lay down the crop in rows, and it is almost as easy to pick it up by hand, rather than raking it. If you are using an 18th century basket to transport (No ends but a long handle) Pick up a handful of grain/grass, lay it on the basket with the heads in one direction, and you get about a bundles worth before you have to transport it. If the grain is ripe, and you lay the heads over the end of a flat surface, all you have to do is whack the heads only, and the kernels will fall out. (Or you can do it on a tarp or something on the ground. But still, whacking the heads only on ripe grain makes it easy to remove the straw by hand.) After cutting, the grain should be let dry to loosen the seeds from their hulls.
In September, I got about a gallon of wheat out my storage and proceeded to use my hand-held grass seed spreader. I spread those little wheaties just like a pro. I then raked the whole plot to work the seeds into the soil. That took a day. Over the next two months until about December 1st the little guys actually came up just like winter wheat is supposed to. From then until March we got some snow, about 1/2 of a normal Wisconsin winter and it got below 0 a couple of times. Winter was just no big deal like it is supposed to be here. In March I noticed they were turning green again and starting to grow. We two snow storms and temperatures dropped below 0 a couple of nights. It got warm and the wheaties were growing again. In April we got frost about 10 nights in a row, but my little green buddies were okay. Along come May and guess what? More frost and no rain! The wheaties were looking dismal. They grew to about 18" in height. In early June we got some rain and they were looking good again. It had not rained in 20 days as of July 1st. It was close to 100 degrees a couple of days in there. On Sunday, July 1st I checked on them at about 6:00 am and they were all falling down. I checked some of the heads and there was grain, small but all the same its was grain. I and hose. Another half barrel sits on top of the "base" barrel. This upper barrel has had a false bottom partition built into it, making it look like it is full of soil, when the soil is actually only 6" deep. This barrel is planted with wildflowers each summer. To access the pump handle and hose, it takes just a few moments to set aside the 30 pound top barrel and flip over the base.
--Saturday July 7 2007 Ethical Preparedness for WTSHTF, by SF in Hawaii
What (if anything) are you willing to kill for post-SHTF? To consider this question, first let's start with a quote on justifiable homicide from Wikipedia: Under early Athenian law, it was considered justifiable homicide to kill an adulterer caught in the act or a burglar caught in the act at night... in eighteenth century English law , it was considered a justifiable homicide if a husband killed a man "ravishing" or raping his wife (Blackstone, Wm. at p. 391), but modern law treats this as only a circumstance that will mitigate murder to a conviction for manslaughter . In other words, the socialization of modern men is supposed to result in less violent responses to provocations. ... in some cases in the United States . A homicide may be considered justified if it is done to prevent a very serious crime , such as rape, armed robbery, or murder. The assailant's intent to commit a serious crime must be clear at the time.
Now let's change the scenario. It's SHTF time and you wake to find a group of armed strangers stealing your food? Now how about your next door neighbor stealing your food for his starving kids? You've already been charitable and now he's getting into your deep larder, but you used to drive his kids to the local soccer match where they played together.
Would you shoot a black masked, private mercenary thug that the governor called in and deputized that tried to disarm you forcibly? How about a well-meaning young kid in the National Guard who, pointing a gun at you, told you he had orders to disarm you (of your only weapon), contrary to the constitution and the needs of your family's protection during a Katrina style disaster. You know that rapists and murders will be out at night while he's safe asleep in his barracks. He's too young and stupid to know what he's doing is wrong. Still, there you both are. How about the local cop who got the same order. You've been fishing with him. He's a good man, except for the fact that he's about to violate his constitutional oath.
It's better to go through these moral exercises in advance and have your line in the sand already drawn. Of course we cannot know what we will really do when confronted with difficult choices, but freezing up at the moment of truth while we work out our ethical dilemmas is not the best option. We need to know what we are willing to do, and how far we are prepared to go in advance so that when the time comes, we can act decisively, already having made peace with the righteousness of our decision.
Bulk foods also make good barter items for paying neighbors that might become your employees in the event of TEOTWAWKI (farm hands, security guards, et cetera.)
OBTW, it was recently reported that the EU has banned the production of new barometers and thermometers that use mercury. (They will be phased out in the next two years.)
Sand bags are important for flood prone areas, and be used as a safe room, bunker, or to cover windows to stop incoming rounds. Single stacked sand bags will stop 7.62x51 [NATO] rounds.
I am referring to a brick oven for baking bread, pizza and a large variety of other foods. Brick ovens have been around for thousands of years, they were very common in Roman times. They are having a revival in the
Wednesday May 30 2007 Hurricane Preparedness, by MFA
I'd like to share a couple of things I've learned through the recent hurricane seasons in Florida, being hit directly by one, indirectly by three or four more (I've lost count). The following assumes you're staying put, not bugging out. Typically my wife will take the kids and bug out, while I stay home for security and damage control if needed.
10. Security - If you think you might need force to defend yourself, get your concealed carry license (CCL), get your practice in and buy your rifles, handguns and ammunition well before season. The state has been known to declare a state of emergency and suspend the sales of guns and ammo when a storm is coming.
heir orchards; from the sides of the roads; from ditches and any place else where a little bit of grass, brush, or edible weeds manages to grow. Also, it's possible to raise a lot of feed in the family garden. I save pea-vines and corn stalks for the goats, for example. You wouldn't want to feed a steady diet of corn stalks, but they are good for stretching other feeds out. Perennials that you can grow for feed include comfrey and alfalfa. We commonly think of alfalfa as being grown in large fields, but a border around the edge of the garden (where it will get tended and watered) will produce a lot of feed.
--Monday May 21 2007 Reader Poll Results: Your TEOTWAWKI Resume -- 100 Words and 100 Pounds
Some of these stretched the 100 word limit. (I skipped posting one that rambled on far beyond the limit.) The poll's premise in a nutshell: "If someday you went to the gates of a survival community post-TEOTWAWKI and pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken objectively, would you vote yourself in?"
I am a shoe maker (not just a repairman) can repair saddles tan leather have done ranch work mechanics weld gardening skills set a broken bone stitch up a bad wound can bake bread etc, shooting skills need work only 5.5 MOA on AQT.
---Age 25, weight 160, excellent health, single. Engineer, engine mechanic, builder, jack of all trades. Trained and competitive marksman. Skilled teacher. Tolerant, thick skinned, sense of humor. Introvert, not loner. Schooled in college, educated in real life. History buff and cook. ---Age: Near 60. Can still see well enough, without glasses, to shoot back.
Old, tired, wore out. Been around the third world several times. (South America, South Seas, East Asia) Can't lift a third my own weight. Don't eat much. Know how to do just about anything.
Will arrive with 30 Lbs water, 30 Lbs freeze dried food, Ruger Mini 14, S&W 659, 100 rds for each, a ---Age 25. Ex-military. Trained extensively in: Perimeter reconnaissance, Land-navigation. Instructor of: full-spectrum warfare, defensive fighting positions, combat operations. Expert marksmen: M16A2, M4A1 (GUU-5/P), M9. Expert in FN-FAL, M1A/M14, AKM, ---Phd/MBA expert (37) on alternative energy and appropriate technology. Tool maker and builder/manufacturer/processor of useful post-TEOTWAWKI machines, trade goods, and alcohol (own BATF-licensed alcohol fuel still). Russian MBA wife (35) survived fall of Soviet Union and 1998 crisis. 4 yo and 10 mo daughters. Home machine shop, tools, anvil, forge, ethanol still, large ---I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any ---Male, 38, 160 pounds. Reasonable shape. Skills: Suturing, minor surgery, advanced airway management, cautery, fractures, casting, NBC treatment, tooth extraction and making dental fillings. 2 home births. Pistol. Morse code.
Supplies: Sutures, antibiotics, casting supplies, complete surgery tools and dental extraction set. .45, scoped M21 sniper rifle plus ammo. Field scope, rangefinder. Level 4 bulletproof vest, helmet, FRS radios. Strengths- Have excellent interpersonal/negotiation skills Have made a sufficient study of military history/combat tactics/military strategy Maintain a vegetable garden/fruit trees Have studied/used survival techniques in N.A. and C.A. Have knowledge of indigenous edible plants/animals in N.A. and C.A. Have skill-at-arms on US/ComBloc small arms
S.F. in Hawaii suggested another poll topic: "If someday you went to the gates of a survival community post TEOTWAWKI and pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken objectively, would you vote yourself in?
I suggest the following poll. Put together your survival resume in 100 words or less. The resume is what you would present to a panel of tough as nails judges who would decide if what you offer is worth what you will consume in resources. You may use in your arguments (1) whatever real skills you possess as of today and (2) whatever you can reasonably carry in a backpack or on your body, as long as you actually own them in real life, not to exceed 100 pounds. If you have children, a significant other, or plan to have anyone else come with you, this must be mentioned. If they possess skills, then they may put in a resume as well and you will be judged singly and as a group. The resume should include your age, weight and general physical condition. Any weaknesses in your case that would be discovered over time that you do not expose (such as a recurring back injury) will be considered grounds for immediate expulsion from the group, so for the purposes of this exercise, you should be up front and honest. If you have children under 12, they can carry their own weight in supplies. You must take into account that your 100 pound allowance should contain whatever food and camping supplies you would want as a refugee. Since you cannot assume that you will be granted sanctuary in the community, you must take what you will need to survive on the outside if you are refused entry. A backpack full of guns and ammo will do you little good if you have no food and water. One caveat: While being part of a group increases survival odds, being on the road as a refugee does not. This is meant as a learning tool to help assess what our skills and assets are and which we might want to develop and accumulate."
Please send me your "resumes" in 100 words of less, via e-mail and I will post them anonymously. Thanks!
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What would you recommend I do in this situation? If you need more information, please do not hesitate to ask. Thanks, - Sam
JWR Replies: I recommend that you form a survival retreat group. That is exactly what I did 25 years ago, when I was an Army ROTC cadet. Stock your retreat as best as you can, given your limited budget. Prioritize your purchasing. Water purification and food storage should be at the top of your list. Set group standards for communications gear and guns. For short range tactical coordination, I recommend the modestly priced MURS transceivers, since they use a little-used band. This is particularly important in the signal-dense northeastern United States, where using CB frequencies would be almost impossible WTSHTF. For advice on firearms selection, see my Survival Guns web page, and my novel "Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse".
---Be very selective about who you bring into your group. Unlike building a group based on an extended family, you can be choosy. Be dispassionate in choosing new group members. Evaluate each candidate on their stability, motivation, and their mix of skills. Friendship is a great thing, but the guy or gal who is presently your dormitory buddy may not be your best choice for a survival group member. Look at their weight, health, and physical fitness. Consider their religious background. Are they moral and trustworthy? Are they intelligent and adaptable? Do they have valuable skills? Are they hard working or will they just be "talkers" or "strap hangers"? Avoid people with extremist views or anyone that suggests making any preparations that are illegal. Ask yourself the key question: Am I willing to trust my life to this individual? If any candidates don't pass muster, then keep looking.
In the long term, try to develop a retreat that is in a less densely populated region. When you graduate, direct your job search--assuming that you will be a reserve officer--to a region that is suitable for self-sufficient retreats. (For details, see my Retreat Areas web page and my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.) Odds are the group that you form in college will have a considerably different composition five or six years from now, once your friends change locales to pursue careers. In fact, depending on where you end up, you may be teamed with an entirely different group of people.
--If you are destined to go on active duty, then tailor your "dream sheet" of preferred duty assignments (after OBC) to posts that are in the western U.S. (You didn't mention if you had been branch selected yet. That could make a big difference in the locale of your eventual posting.) I suggest that you consider posts like Umatilla Army Depot, Fort Carson, Rocky Mountain Arsenal, Tooele Army Depot, Dugway Proving Ground, Fort Lewis (possibly permanent party at Yakima Training Center), Fort Greely, Fort Wainwright, or perhaps Sierra Army Depot. Army PERSCOM branch managers are often willing to accommodate requests from junior officers that state a preference for posts that their peers would consider "backwater" assignments. (Let everyone else ask for a posting in Germany, Fort Meade, or Fort Devens.) Your branch manager may exclaim to his co-workers: "Holy cow! This lieutenant asked to be assigned to Umatilla Army Depot!"
someone living in the Rockies. Your "List of Lists" should include: Water List Food Storage List Food Preparation List Personal List First Aid /Minor Surgery List Nuke Defense List Biological Warfare Defense List Gardening List Hygiene List/Sanitation List Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List Power/Lighting/Batteries List Fuels List Firefighting List Tactical Living List Security-General Security-Firearms Communications/Monitoring List Tools List Sundries List Survival Bookshelf List Barter and Charity List
Consider your preparations a form of insurance. But it is much better that traditional life insurance, where if you die, they pay. Lord willing, this type of insurance will keep you and your family alive and well.
Don't dawdle. Even modest preparations will put you miles ahead of your unprepared neighbors. Stock up gradually and consistently. Take you training seriously. Once acquired, share your skills with others. Network with like minded relatives, neighbors, and friends. But of course be circumspect about what you reveal about your preparations to anyone that doesn't have a need to know.
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Monday May 14 2007 Poll Results: Why are You Preparing to Survive?
--Sunday May 6 2007 Two Letters Re: Advice on Enhancing Cool Basement Food Storage
James: For those looking to create stable and "passively" cool storage in a basement, the book "How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar" by Richard Gold is a well-thought, meticulously engineered solution to many of the same issues faced by those seeking to store food at stable, cool temperatures. Regards, - Ben are constructed of concrete such as basements, foundations and slabs on grade are very susceptible to moisture intrusion. Concrete acts as a wick and when dry will actually attract moisture and move it through out the structure under the right conditions. For example a twenty-inch concrete column sealed o--- hundred years this condition has been referred to as "rising damp". The modern term for it is capillary action.--Choose as dry and well-drained location as possible to build the structure. Once the excavation of the basement is complete you should proceed with water management measures as dictated by the conditions of your location. If you have a substantial amount of groundwater or springs under the excavation you will need to install a drain system around the outside of the foundation and under the floor to move this water away from the basement.--Now comes the important part. Once the drain system is completed and the forms for the foundation and floor have been constructed you will want to lay down heavy-duty plastic vapor barrier on the ground under all areas where you will pour concrete. The barrier should cover the entire floor, pass under the foundation and up the outside wall as continuous as possible. Where you need to make seams, overlap the barrier at least five feet. Applying a sealant between the layers at the seams is advisable. --You should end up with basement that is totally encapsulated in a plastic vapor barrier. Most builders that attempt installation of vapor barriers ignore the foundation because it takes a little finesse to do this right. This leaves a path for capillary action to bring moisture into the basement. Now that you have a dry basement don't forget to properly ventilate it. It should be tied in with the rest of the house ventilation system. If you construct a safe room in one corner it will still be necessary to supply some ventilation to that room or it will become very musty.--I am presently planning the construction of a small house for my wife and I and will construct a safe/storage room as an extension of the basement, which will extend out from under the house. It will basically be an underground concrete room next to the house joining the basement wall and will be totally sealed from moisture as I have described. I will be able to easily hide the entrance through the basement wall in the back of a utility room. Being outside of the house footprint will also protect it from fire in case the house would burn down or otherwise be destroyed. JWR Replies: To take best advantage of the ambient ground temperature and isolate the food storage area from the heated portion of your basement, you should definitely construct well-insulated partition walls--preferably using 2x6s and two bats (two thicknesses) of insulation. The thickness of the door through the partition wall is not as crucial as it being relatively airtight--to keep the cool air from "spilling out" from under the door. In my experience you should omit any vents unless the humidity is high, but your mileage may vary (YMMV).
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Thursday April 26 2007 Letter Re: How Do I Prepare Rice and Coffee for Long Term Storage?
3. We just jumped in with both feet doing food storage instead of learning the proper way. We bought tons of wheat, cornmeal, and oatmeal - poured it in buckets and stuck it in several locations. About 3 years later we started learning and realized we should have taken more care, rotated our stock, etc. When we checked on things we ended up feeding about half of it to the chickens.
4. Underestimating what we need! This was the biggest. Several years ago my husband got sick and was off work for four months - unable to get out of bed for two of those months. Because we were debt free and had food stored plus some savings we did okay, but we realized how many things we had overlooked that I had to run to the store for - spices, OTC medicines, shampoos and toiletries, even socks and undergarments that were about worn out and had no spares. Nothing absolutely life shattering, but those creature comforts make life bearable.
5. We also realized during that time that our roles were too separate. We are very traditional, with me doing "women's" work and him doing the "men's" work - that's how we like it. But when he could not do it we realized how dangerous that could be.
Bright side to the story, once we had removed our unintended rat support system, I started catching the despicable critters in my traps and the poison containers show signs of being eaten. No more rats! Moral: watch where you store stuff and check on your storage regularly.
Dear Mr. Rawles, While rag-picking at my local thrift store, I spotted an Asian food wholesale supply store in that neighborhood. What caught my eye was the 50# bags of rice stocked 6' high and three deep, right in the storefront window. By my count, he had six tons of rice varieties on site. That is far more than the half-pallet that Sam's Club seems to stock. Note to preppers: If you happen to recognize a slow spiral to TEOTWAWKI, and you still have the need to accumulate calories for the homestead or charity, map out the ethnic food wholesalers (Asian, Mexican, etc.) in your AO for the proverbial beans and rice. If and when the times call for it, my guess is our multicultural friends also will understand the value of gold and silver coin as tender in payment of debt, whereas the mass merchant will not. (Of course if folks are using silver, at that point you should already have the hatches battened down.) BTW, my greatest "keeping your eyes peeled" find was after the November--
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--Wednesday April 18 2007 Livestock at Your Retreat, by Samantha
Livestock, while not strictly essential to post-TEOTWAWKI survival, are certainly on the to-have list of the majority of all survival-minded individuals.
goats, can forage for themselves quite effectively in almost any season, if left to their own devices in a large enough enclosure. Others, notably cattle and horses, have been raised so that they expect food - grain and hay -
Look at your retreat location critically, and find animals suited and accustomed to the terrain and climates.
Letting rabbits or chickens inbreed out of neglect is one of the fastest ways to reduce their utility (especially as feed animals), so keeping males and females separate, and creating breeding records, can be a sure lifesaver. With bigger stock (cattle, horses, etcetera…) inbreeding is less of a problem,
As a special note, extremely few fish breeders care about inbreeding in their stock: typically, only fish with very obvious malformations are destroyed.
---My top-choice breed of horse for post-apocalyptic living would be a BLM-captured Mustang [feral horse]. These animals aren't much to look at, but they're small and hardy. When other horses are thin in winter, waiting at the gates for hay, these animals will be fat and glossy, digging up grass roots to eat. They prosper naturally in almost every type of terrain and climate, and are priced at a steal. At BLM auctions, a single horse will usually sell for between 100 and 300 dollars.
Runner up would be a Percheron. These are draft horses, so they're more than capable of carrying or pulling an extraordinary weight – and they're often trained to ride, drive, and occasionally even plow. Typically, most drafts have a slow and easygoing temperament
cattle), I would recommend Brown Swiss. These animals are slow and gentle
to maximize the lifelong utility of your cattle, the South Devon is a safe bet. Again, calving is a big part of owning cattle, which is what warrants this breed as second choice – they've been aptly nicknamed 'the maternal beef'. These cattle, unlike most, produce milk and calves well into their teens.
For the most part, I recommend sheep more than goats; they're less predisposed to sickness, and are generally much less ornery.
--goats:However, if they suit your fancy, I would recommend the Kinder breed, hands down. They're medium sized dual-purpose goats (milk and meat), and does average out in maturity as about 115 pounds. They have between 3 to 6 kids a year, which will each weigh around 80 pounds in 14 months… They are extremely efficient meat converters.
if store-chicks wont sit:just buy mature brooding hens from a small farmer, or one hen and her brood.
---Monday April 16 2007 Poll Results: An Exercise in Humility--a Poll on Embarrassing Mistakes I didn't floss my teeth for years thinking brushing my teeth was enough. On a day hike I relied on a GPS and ignored my own sense of direction and Bought a bunch of meat, dehydrated it and put it in a vacuum sealed bag. Two months later it was all molded.
The bottom line is that being prepared is more than an excuse to buy a lot of guns. They are a very important part of it, but they are not the only part. Before you buy that sexy looking AR, maybe you should ask yourself if you have enough provisions on hand to survive a week off the grid. If you do, then maybe it's not a bad purchase for your particular situation. If you don't, then your money could be better spent elsewhere. We live and we learn I suppose. Hopefully others will read my mistakes and learn from them.
Here are the topics of disgust: 1). Sawdust-based compost on Garden 2). Vacuum sealing spare garden seeds (dont do it) 3). Not putting my dust masks in a dry vermin resistant package.As for the sawdust compost mixture I tilled into my garden three years running I continually noticed a decline in yield. In further research I found that the sawdust "sterilizes" the soil by absorbing the key nutrients
to post-TEOTWAWKI living. In my experience, the most cost-effective training opportunities in the U.S. include:
American Red Cross First Aid and CPR classes
Local Community College, Park District, and Adult Education classes. They offer classes on metal shop, auto shop, wood shop, leather crafting, ceramics, baking, gardening, welding, and so forth.
RWVA Appleseed Shoots. These are held all over the nation. They offer great training for very little money. The West Side Sportsman's Club, located on t
LDS (Mormon) cannery classes/canning sessions. Many "wards" have their own canneries, which are generally open to non-Mormons. (OBTW, the LDS food storage calculator web page is a very useful planning tool.)
FEMA / CERT Classes (Classroom and Internet courses, some with team commitment)
ARRL amateur radio classes.
Species-Specific or Breed-Specific Livestock and Pet Clubs
NRA and State Rifle and Pistol Association training and shooting events
Fiber Guilds (spinning and weaving) and local knitting clubs
University/County Agricultural Extension and Cattleman's Club classes on livestock, gardening, weed control, canning, et cetera
Medical Corps small group classes. I heard that they have scheduled just one hands-on Combat/Field Medicine Course thusfar for 2007.
Volunteer Fire department (VFD) classes (usually with some commitment)
Candle and Soap Making Clubs/Conventions
Boy Scouts and 4H. Informal, un-enrolled ("strap hanger") training is available for adults--just take your kids to the meetings and don't leave.
I would also consider these less important (but still worthwhile) training opportunities, as time permits:
Sheriff's posse and Search and Rescue (SAR) programs
Police department "Ride Along" and Police Reserve programs
Civil Air Patrol (CAP) courses.
Civic/Ethnic Club cooking classes
---Saturday April 14 2007 Letter Re: Three Liabilities Addressed: Refrigeration,
Australian Tom Chalko published an article in 2005 showing how to convert a standard chest freezer into an extremely energy efficient refrigerator that uses 0.1 KWH per day.
A 750 watt photovoltaic system (five 150 watt panels, a 750+ watt inverter, and a battery) is enough to power the 100 watt per hour refrigerator. However, Tom Chalko's design only needs one 40 watt panel [$300 to $400 at typical retail ripoff rates], a 40+ watt inverter [$34 at The Inverter Store], and one battery - the total investment would be about $500. Inverters will typically last 10 years for the premium brands (e.g. Fronius, Kaco, Xantrex, SMA America) while the panels will last 25 to 40 years. Note that using a 12 volt DC refrigerator eliminates the need for inverters.
One could easily stockpile several extra small inverters and store them in a Faraday cage. They also would be a good post-collapse trade good.
For multi-generational collapses once the inverters and solar panels die, lead acid batteries and DC direct driven wind turbine technologies are sustainable and could be locally manufactured using home garage scale workshops. In an absolute worst case scenario, [in northern climates where ponds and lakes freeze in winter] one uses the refrigeration solution used for hundreds of years in Europe:
1) Find a cave or build a sufficiently large underground root cellar. 2) Heavily insulate the structure using natural materials such as straw bales 3) Every winter, use the natural freezing cycles to make large volumes of ice blocks 4) Store the ice blocks in the structure and insulate them with saw dust 5) Store food in the portion of the structure surrounded by ice 6) Use smaller, insulated ice chest in individual homes for day-to-day refrigeration and resupply the ice chest with ice from the large storage cellar or cave every several days.
Ultimately, knowledge of the right appropriate technology (some high tech but mostly alternative design approaches successfully used in the past or in third world countries that were often abandoned in the West as cheaper energy destroyed their economics) can show us ways solve
---Friday April 13 2007 Letter Re Buying the Right Cookware and Knives for Long Term Preparedness
Having spent 28+ years in the restaurant industry, I can recommend a few items that I think everyone should have in their retreat.
1) Good stainless steel chef, boning, serrated, paring and carving knives. T 2) A good set of cast iron cookware. 3) A good pepper grinder with metal gears and a supply of pepper corns, and large granule salt or sea salt. 4) A mortar and pestle for grinding herbs, salt,etc
---Wednesday April 11 2007 Three Liabilities Addressed: Refrigeration, Sanitation, and Fuel, by James D. compressor to compress a refrigerant (a liquid that boils at room temperature) turning gas to a liquid. For the survivalist, ammonia is the refrigerant of choice, and at the proper pressure (since it is normally a gas), it will act as a refrigerant, although other chemicals may be added to improve performance, including water and salts. When the liquid boils it will cool the surface that the refrigerant evaporates from returning to gas again. (Note that you can change the pressure in the system to alter the temperature it will boil at) Evaporative cooling works the same in this case as it does when sweat evaporates into vapor cooling you. Ammonia can be made from urine and was first derived from urea. "It was also used by dyers in the Middle Ages in the form of fermented urine" This is of particular interest for those who worry about the multigenerational scenario.
There are many plans available on the internet for experimental ice makers. These ice makers for the survivalist may make the difference between life and death for those who need cooling for insulin that will work even after an EMP. Further ice will have huge trade value when there is no other way to make ice post-crash. Bleach is a great sanitizer but unless stored as a powder it loses potency over time, and there is a limit to the amount of powdered bleach you can rationally store. So the ability to make bleach from raw materials, water and salt, is worthwhile knowledge. Further with the advent of antibiotic resistant bacteria and pandemic viruses, sanitation is not an issue of social graces, but sickness and death. Further bleach made from salt is another potential use for the salt that should be stored for those who do not have access to bodies of salt water, it has innumerable uses, and this is just one more. The basic process is similar to the other electrolytic processes described on SurvivalBlog, like making colloidal silver. Also see this site.
Alcohol is in many ways the wonder fuel for survivalists. It doesn't spoil (like gas or diesel), it has been made since the dawn of civilization, so it is a robust and simple process the make it, and the ingredients are ubiquitous, plus it makes good trade fodder as more than just fuel. All you need is sugar, yeast and a sealed vessel. Yeasts digest sugar and make alcohol when there is no oxygen around, this is called fermentation. Yeasts are common enough that even without a culture you can just contaminate the vessel with saliva or expose it to air, and there will be enough yeast to ferment the sugars. This is not the most efficient way, or the most appetizing, but it can work. There are many sources for more information about making the mash, but to make a fuel or liquor rather than a semi-toxic mash you need to refine the product. This process is called distillation, and it works by using the boiling points of alcohol and water to separate them in a device called a still. This process is simple, but for efficient distillation, a well made device is required, and most are quite expensive. This is a good tutorial on how to make a quality one for a reasonable price.
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---Sunday April 8 2007 Nuclear, Chemical or Biological Disaster Preparedness, by Brian A.
When detonated, it releases radiation in the form of dust or debris, which is harmful mostly when inhaled, or introduced into the body by other means, (eyes, open cuts, etc.). The main terror use of such a weapon would be to contaminate emergency services workers responding to the initial blast. In the 1990s, Chechen rebels reportedly placed such a device in a park in Moscow, They used no explosive or other means to announce it's presence; they just let it sit there and expose passers by to radiation
Contrary to popular belief, a detonation/release of either type would not be a "death ray, heat wave" type situation. In both situations, the radiation would come in the form of particulate matter, and affect the population according to proximity and winds at the time. For example, in both situations, depending on the direction of the wind, you could be five feet away from the release and not be affected, or be a half-mile away and receive a dose. This is why winds are important,
Egress or "Bug Out" Plan. In the event of a radiological release due to an incident at a nuclear facility or a terror detonation of a RDD type device. (This plan will also apply to natural disasters, rioting or other scenarios). Your best option may be to evacuate, leaving your home or workplace for a safer area as prompted by authorities. You'll notice I mentioned home and workplace. What would you do if you and your spouse are at work and the kids are at school? Do you have the means to contact them or retrieve them? What kind of emergency procedures do the schools have in place? Find out. You need to have contact numbers and be sure that everyone knows the plan. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you are leaving, everyone around you also has the same idea. This is why evacuation is to only be carried out if danger is imminent, and planning of at least two different routes to your safe area is critical. Picture rush hour with a "chicken little the sky is falling" mentality, that's what roads exiting a disaster area could resemble. A good idea is to have at least one of your routes on secondary roads, staying away from highways, as they could be generally congested.
---small bob: Non-perishable food items, MREs/canned meats. At least 2 quarts of clean drinking water. Matches or a fire source Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife. 40' of rope capable of supporting 200 Lbs. Duct tape, string, nails, etc. Survival or thermal blanket. Small first aid kit (bandages, antiseptics, bug repellent, pain medications) This is a small compact kit
--big bob: A large "bug out bag" should be prepared for each family member and be stored in your home, or in cases of extreme heightened awareness, kept in your vehicle, some items to be considered for that: Non perishable food for three days Portable water for three days Matches or other fire source. Flashlight, spare batteries and spare bulbs. Portable AM/FM radio with spare batteries Survival type or thermal blanket. Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife. Portable pocket saw. Small first aid kit, including insect repellent, and needed prescription medications Small backpacking type, "pup tent" for shelter. 3 strong plastic garbage bags. "Isolation" or particle/dust protective masks. These items should be packed into a portable waterproof backpack, and need to be checked and maintained at least once every few months. (Author uses a frame type hiking pack)
A good idea is to have precut plastic sheeting cut and labeled for the windows and doors of your home. These can be affixed with duct tape
a 40-gallon fresh water supply in your house, your hot water tank. Most hot water tanks are equipped with a drain valve in the bottom and an intake shut off valve. Know where these are.
couple of "camping style" 10 gallon blue [plastic] containers that are made for water that I keep filled in the event they are needed.
3days food+water 'stored now'.
Local authorities already have contingency plans in place, and will pass the info on to you. However, you need a means of getting that information. A battery-powered radio is one of the most important ways
---George Santayana "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." Words to live by. JWR Adds: In my opinion, having just a three day supply of food is overly optimistic. FEMA is not likely to come cahrging to the rescue in every neighborhood in just three days. So a three month supply of food with a three week supply of water (and the means to filter additional water that is gathered later) is more realistic. Also, it is important to consider charity for your neighbors. A five year supply of storage food for one family can also be a three month supply for 20 families, or a three day supply for 200 families.
Brian mentions sheet plastic and duct tape. Completely sealing a room (which of course he is not suggesting) would be suicidal. Commercially-made shelter air pumps and HEPA filter systems are sold
positive in building an appropriate "we/they" distinction during a societal collapse--the distinction between your local community and predatory outsiders. Just ask anyone that has ever lived "inside the wire" at a Forward Operating Base (FOB) in Iraq. Those soldiers will tell you that they felt a strong cohesive bond, and were absolutely determined to repel anyone that attempted to attack their FOB. Their steadfast resolve can be summed up with the words: "They are not getting through the wire. Period." Dispensing charity helps build a cohesive "we" and draws into sharp contrast the "they." (In my view of the near future, the "they" will likely be roving bands of criminal looters. Imagine a situation like in the movie The Road Warrior, and you are inside the perimeter at the refinery. Can you see the appropriate "we/they"?)
---By logical extension, you can dispense significant charity only if you have it to give. Clearly, you must stock up above and beyond your own family's needs.
Consider that extra food as a key to building a "sense of community." Even for even those of you that are non-religious, dispensing charity will be part of your "we/they paradigm" insurance. If purchased in bulk quantities, it is also cheap insurance. Don't neglect buying your family that insurance! OBTW, speaking of wheat, the threat of the wheat "super-blight" is looming. This makes it urgent for families to stock up.
Where is the Biblical support for charity? It can be seen throughout the Old and New Testaments. Remember the Bible's guidance about leaving unharvested rows of crops, to benefit "gleaners"?
we are living at the tail end of a historic period of plenty. Whether you feel that the price hikes we are seeing are due to peak oil, developing nations gobbling up natural resources, or active war zones sucking in all available oil and ammunition, you can not deny that prices (especially for fuel and metals) have increased significantly over the past few years.
Even if you focus only on specific products like the impending shortage of honey from [honeybee] Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) or a ban on high capacity magazines during the next presidential administration, you can not deny that shortages have either already begun or are fast approaching. That said, this is the time to take stock of what you have on hand and compare it to what you would not want to be caught without. Consider what you expect the price of those goods to be in the future and b work your way through your available funds meeting your highest priority needs first. In general, the "Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids" mantra is a good place to start. Beans: You will always need to eat whether there is a TEOTWAWKI event or not. If you take advantage of weekly grocery store sales and group buy discounts to stock up on food you will realize financial savings even if no general price hike or famine occurs. I personally feel that a significant rise in food prices over the next year is almost a certainty and so feel that acquire a food reserve is the top priority. ---Bullets: Having food is no good if you have to surrender it to the first thug who comes along. The price of ammunition has increased dramatically as the demand for metals has skyrocketed globally. The political situation in the United States makes impending bans on rifles, ammunition, and magazines very likely in the near future. If you haven't already stocked up you will pay a higher price, and it is only going to get worse. Band-aids: Every disaster scenario includes the potential for injury and disease. If you can prevent and/or treat both, the likelihood of survival and the quality of your family's life increases dramatically. My chief complaint with survivalist literature in general is the over generalization of recommendations. So my top ten recommended specific purchases are below. Keep in mind that your needs and local market may differ from my own. The following recommendations are based on what I see a need for post SHTF and the likelihood of future shortages in my area.1. Food Grains – rice, oatmeal, beans, wheat, corn – most of us consume far more than we produce. Food grains are cheap especially if bought in bulk and when properly stored can last for years. Regardless of the crisis, food will be needed. It just makes sense to keep several months of food on hand especially in light of the potential shortages that could result from the die off of pollinators, and the potential need for self isolation in case of pandemic. Rice seems the best bargain in my local market. For literally pennies per pound, you can buy insurance against hunger in the form of dry rice. In addition to grains, watch for grocery store sales on canned goods. Buying 50 cans all at once for 40 cents each is half the cost of buying one can per week for 50 weeks at 80 cents each. I strongly recommend taking advantage of any bargains you run across on shelf stable foods that you normally buy (canned fruits, canned vegetables, canned soups and dry soup ingredients, grains, pastas, etc.). 2. Matches – whether you prefer strike anywhere matches or safety matches, they are cheap, useful, and currently plentiful. They are so cheap that I have listed them as my second recommendation because for less than ten dollars you can have literally years' worth of matches on hand. Unless you have small children at home, it is well worth storing a book of matches in every bug out bag, camping tote, evacuation suitcase, jacket pocket, and vehicle. 3. If you can still find reasonably priced ammunition, especially 22 Long Rifle bulk packs, buy it. It seems that the opportunity to buy low cost center-fire ammunition is nearly gone. But you may still be able to find 22 long rifle cartridges for less than 2 cents per cartridge. If you can find that price in a brand which functions well in your firearms, I'd recommend buying a large supply. The same is true of 7.62x39 under 15 cents per cartridge and 308 under 25 cents per cartridge. If you can find it, I'd recommend buying it. And don't forget reloading supplies. As the price of ammunition escalates, reloading will become more popular. It may be worth watching for opportunities to stock up on discounted powder, primers, wads, shot, and projectiles. prefer hydrogen peroxide. It is incredibly cheap difficult to manufacture at home, and has always proven effective for me as everything from mouth rinse to shallow wound cleanser. I think it is well worth picking up a few spare bottles and storing in a cool dark place. As with all medicines, read and observe the warnings. 7. Hygiene products – especially chlorine bleach to use as a disinfectant and water purifier but also soap, shampoo, feminine products, dental products, tissues, and toilet paper. All are currently cheap, all are needed in our households anyway, and all are worth having on hand when the lights go out, especially in regard to the ability to prevent illness. 8. Oils of every kind
9. Salt – as previously posted on Survival Blog salt is essential to life, cheap, and presently plentiful. But post a SHTF event you will have a hard time gettigg it. Don't think of salt as only for flavoring your food. It is essential to life and valuable as a food preservative in both curing and canning. Iodized salt provides vital iodine as well as salt. It can be used for all the uses that non-iodized salt is used for but you may end up with cloudy pickling solution etc. Non-iodized salt (preferred for canning, pickling, and hide tanning) is currently selling for about 69 cents per pound in my area. When you consider the labor involved in collecting it on your own, that is ridiculously cheap. 10. Honey – the
---Sunday April 1 2007 Letter Re: Survival Kits and Salt Storage
I would probably be considered more of a "self-reliantist" than a survivalist,
To counter this, I built a small kit that takes up less room than her purse - in it I put a butane lighter, a magnesium block, fire-starter matches, two collapsible water bottles, 6 bottles of water purification tablets, a knife, a sierra saw, a small first-aid kit, two rain ponchos in a pouch, some plastic bags, an LED flashlight, and a jar of bouillon cubes. Admittedly, it's not perfect, but it is better than nothing. My work colleague liked the idea enough that he put one together for his wife as well.
2. Salt - From the investigation I've done around the web, unfortunately this includes even your own site, this is an important and overlooked staple that should be high on everyone's list. Civilizations have collapsed due to lack of salt. In short, without electricity and reliable refrigeration, salt is the primary means of food preservation. If you live near the coast, you can gather salt from the sea, as well as those living near a salt spring, or dry salt bed, etc. Everyone else will have to stock it up or trade for it. Iodized salt is the preferable solution because it contains the small amount of iodine that the human body needs, the deficiency of which is called goiter, and can lead to birth defects such as mental retardation, thyroid disorders, and loss of IQ. If you live near the ocean, you can get the necessary iodine by adding seafood (including seaweed) to your diet.
3. A very useful book - One of the most informative books I've found in filling the gaps between what I don't know and what I need to know is the book "Caveman Chemistry" by Kevin M Dunn. It's written in a peculiar style, but it's packed with useful information. - Charles R.
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---Saturday March 31 2007 The lesson I learned that day was that, if there's something you think you're really going to need in a time of emergency, buy it now. Wait until the last minute and it will probably be gone. People in general may not be very well prepared, but they will pick a "big box" retailer clean the moment any perceived threat appears on the horizon. I guess this is something we all know, but it is probably worth repeating.- Tim in Baltimore, Maryland
Friday March 30 2007 Letter Re: Macroeconomic Implications of Large Scale Ethanol Production in the U.S.
Hi Jim I have run across some information that I thought might be of interest. I am in the food business and come in contact with a lot of people in the food industry.
One of my associates is in the frozen fruit and vegetable business. He has been telling me the effect that W's ethanol incentives are having on the agriculture industry and it is quite alarming.
Tuesday March 27 2007 SHTF Shopping, by SF in Hawaii
There are two types of survivalist ["Schumer Hits the Fan"] (SHTF) shopping. Pre-SHTF, and Imminent-SHTF. Let's look at both of them .
Pre-SHTF These are things you buy now while there is no immediate threat and no mobs of desperate people trying to get the same thing. People who know you think you are eccentric but mostly harmless. The readers of this site already know what kinds of items to store in advance (food, guns, ammunition, etc.) and so it will not be repeated here.
Imminent SHTF If you haven't done your Pre-SHTF shopping, shame on you. The best you can hope for is to get there first. Put on a rucksack and while everyone else is in shock, you call your group/wife/friends and get to the COSTCO or wherever. You will be competing with others for items.
Here is where your preparation pays off. You zig while everyone else zags. You don't want to be in a throng of hungry and frightened people scrabbling for what's left on the [supermarket] shelves. Since you already have done your Pre-SHTF shopping, you are in no immediate need of anything. Instead, think of what else you might want to get and buy it while others are ransacking the shelves of the local grocery store for canned tuna, rice, bottled water and D-cell batteries. You've got your shopping list and you call your team and assign items to purchase.
Consider the nature of the SHTF. Stay away from the crowds. If a violent riot is a mile away, don't go to the gun store to get another shotgun. Everyone else is going there. You already have your guns and ammo right? Go to the hardware store and get razor wire (or barbed wire), 2x4's, nails, fire extinguishers and smoke inhalation masks/hoods. If the banks are shutting down, don't go and wait on line there. Instead, go to the ATMs and local check cashing place. Think out of the box or get buried in one.
You want to be ahead of the learning curve of the masses. You can be by virtue of three things.
1 - You've already taken care of the necessities so you can avoid the crowds. 2 - You aren't going into shock since you already saw this coming. 3 - You don't have to think about what you're going to need. You've already thought about it, made your list, and know exactly where to get it.
Conclusion: Have this thought out ahead of time. Have copies or your list, delegate tasks to those in your circle and move fast while everyone else is glued to the television set waiting for the government to tell them what to do. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: Deciding whether or not to venture away from your home or retreat when disruption looks imminent should not be a taken lightly. Risks will likely outweigh the benefits if it means "fighting the crowds" at the stores. (Literally.) Nor do you want riffraff seeing your vehicle heaped with new purchases and then following you home. Ditto for nosey neighbors.
In my writings, I have always stressed that we should "Be part of the solution, and not part of the problem." I consider that the litmus test for determining the right course of action in any disaster. By logical extension, that mindset pushes us in the direction of dispensing charity and assisting civil authorities in restoring law and order. By stocking up well in advance you will be one less person that rushes to the supermarket just after the SHTF. ---Sunday March 25 2007 Letter Re: Measuring Volume for Silica Gel Desiccant in Food Storage Buckets
Hello Mr. Rawles, I have a question concerning silica gel desiccant measurements. I have found that buying the desiccant in bulk from flower shops more economical for me, but need assistance with putting together an accurate measurement for 5 or 6 gallon food buckets. On the Alan T. Hagan [Food Storage FAQ] site, he say's to use coffee filters to make the packets which is a good source and on other vendor sites it say's that 1500 to 2000 cc's is to be used for the 5 or 6 gallon bucket's, my problem is how to measure those amount's and the others for that matter (300, 500, 750, 1000 cc's seem to be the usual amounts). I have a kitchen measuring cup and some conversion tables off the net but the amount that is poured seem's over measured (measured in ml BTW, ml=cc) because it seems quite large (the homemade packets). Any clarification/ help is greatly appreciated. - Derrick
JWR Replies: You are correct that a cubic centimeter is the same volume as a milliliter (mL or ml). 1 cup volume is about 240 to 250 mls. So the 1,500 to 2,000 cc figure does seem very high. At first glance, I think that they might have been off by a factor of 10 when they made their calculations. Typically, what is used for a sealed 5 or 6 gallon bucket of storage rice or wheat is a two ounce (56 gram) packet of silica gel, or perhaps two packets if you live in a damp climate. But let me provide a thoroughly defined answer, since a gram is a unit of weight and a milliliter is a unit of volume. Dry silica gel weighs 680 grams per liter. When it is saturated, it weighs considerably more. But as the basis for our calculations, you can assume that the weight of dry silica gel is .68 of the weight of an equivalent volume of water. Hence:, for Water: 1 cc = 1 ml = 1 gram. (Well, to be absolutely scientifically precise, 1 milliliter equals 1.000028 cc and 1 cc equals 0.999972 ml., but we aren't splitting atoms here), and for Silica gel: 1 cc = 1 ml = .68 gram. So, 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces) of dry silica gel would occupy a volume of 68 mls, or just over 1/4 of a cup, and 400 grams of dry silica gel would measure just over one cup.
You should always dry your silica gel before using it. This can be accomplished by placing the packets in a home dehydrator (such as the Excalibur brand--highly recommended) for 10 hours, or on a cookie sheet in a kitchen oven set to 150 to 180 degrees for 12 hours. (Make sure that the paper is not close to the heating element.) When dry, (down to around 2% moisture) 1000 grams of silica gel will occupy a volume of about 680 mls or 2-1/4 cups. So the 1,500cc (ml) figure that they mentioned would equate to more than five cups of silica gel! Whoa! We had better move that decimal place over a notch! A half cup (120 ml) of dry silica gel is plenty for a five or 6 gallon bucket.
OBTW, I don't recommend adding any desiccant to buckets of dried beans. (Although you should add an 02 absorbing packet.) If beans get too dry, it actually shortens their useful shelf life. If they get too dry, then soaking them--even for many days--will not plump them up properly, and they will not be palatable. If you are faced with the "hard bean" problem, you can resort to either using a pressure cooker, or grinding the beans, to salvage them.
The bottom line to all this number crunching is the good news: With the aforementioned exception of beans, there is no such thing as "too much" silica gel in a dried food storage bucket. If you inadvertently use two or three times too much, there is no harm done. But it would be a needless expense unless you can get it in bulk at very low cost or find someone giving it away. As you mentioned, florist shops are a good source. Another source is piano shops. Most of the pianos that are imported from Japan come with a large bag of silica gel. (Usually 600 to 800 grams.) One of those bags is the perfect size to protect the contents of a typical home gun vault.(Be sure to re-dry it once a year, or once per quarter if you live in a damp climate.) If you make some phone calls, these big bags are often available free for the asking--or next to it--if you pick them up at your local piano store.
For those not inclined toward scrounging, commercially-made silica gel packets are available from a variety of Internet vendors such as Ready Made Resources and Nitro-Pak. Both of those vendors also sell oxygen absorbing packets, which are crucial to ensure that insect larvae won't survive in your food storage buckets.
I am not a big believer in doctors or drugs, except only when absolutely necessary. After all, doctors are the #3 cause of deaths in the U.S.!
There has been a lot of talk in SurvivalBlog about maintaining good health and nutrition and making sure to stock lots of vitamins and other supplements, and I heartily agree with this.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned a lot on your blog is how to maintain good intestinal flora. I am no expert in this, but have found a number of low-cost ways to do this. I am in my late 50s and over the last few years started experiencing a lot of heartburn and acid reflux and started looking for natural ways to handle this. What some people do not realize is that using antacids to handle heart-burn actually has the opposite effect in that the antacids neutralize the acids in the stomach, but also cause the stomach to produce even more acids to counteract their effect.
One thing that I have found that is very good for heart burn is garlic. There is a product called Kyolic that works very well and as garlic has many other benefits, it should be taken in some form, on a daily basis.
However, I found for the long term, the best thing to do is to take small amounts of raw fermented foods every day. I'm sure that one of your readers can tell us the physiology behind this, but I only concerned that it is workable. The following are a few suggestions:
The least expensive and easiest thing to do [to promote good intestinal flora] is to make naturally cured sauerkraut. I found a very simple recipe at this site. This makes naturally fermented sauerkraut in about 3 days and it is excellent. My wife is German and she says it is as good as what she used to eat at home. In order to benefit from all of the beneficial enzymes and bacteria, I eat it raw.
There is another variation on sauerkraut called cabbage rejuvelac, which was developed by Dr. Gray many years ago. The recipe can be found at this site. Instead of eating the fermented cabbage, you drink the liquid that it was made in.
There are also a number of sites that have recipes for Ann Wigmore's wheat rejuvelac and I have not tried any of these yet, but I suspect they give similar benefits.
I also regularly make kefir [cheese], as this is easily made from cow or goat milk and does not require any special equipment. Kefir grains can be purchased from Marilyn the Kefir Lady. Kefir grains last pretty much forever, in fact they keep growing and I have to periodically give some away. Marilyn also has recipes on her site for making kefir cheese.
I also make fresh yogurt and buy the starter from Cheesemaking.com. My favorite product of theirs is the kefir culture. This sets up like yogurt, but I much prefer the flavor to the other yogurt cultures that they sell. It also doesn't require any special equipment and can be cultured at room temperature. This differs from the kefir made with kefir grains in that the kefir made with kefir grains is much more liquid than that made with kefir culture.
I also recently found an interesting site: http://bodyecology.com/ where there are recipes for raw cultured vegetables. While I have not tried any of the recipes yet, I plan to quite soon.
Beet sugar is grown domestically, but most cane sugar is imported from
rare, infants are at greater risk or botulin poisoning, so children under 14 months should not be allowed to eat honey.
Q.: I've heard that honey can be used to treat wounds and burns. Is that true?
JWR Replies: According to a paper presented at an international wound healing conference in Australia, "Honey... has an excellent "track record" over 4 000 years of usage as a wound dressing. In recent times it has been "rediscovered", with numerous reports of animal model and clinical studies, case reports and randomised controlled trials showing it rates favourably alongside modern dressing materials in its effectiveness in managing wounds. Honey has a potent antibacterial activity and is very effective in clearing infection in wounds and protecting wounds from becoming infected. It also has a debriding action, an anti-inflammatory action, and a stimulatory effect on granulation and epithelialisation." Honey is best used on wounds by soaking it into bandages so that it doesn't seep or run away from the wound.
Although honey has been proven to have some efficacy on burns, I generally do titled, "Black Monday" by R. Scott Reiss. It entails a scenario where a virus hits our oil supply and all the machines in the world stop working.
Monday February 26 2007 Poll Results: Best Occupations for Both Before and After TEOTWAWKI
In no particular order, the following are the first batch of responses to my poll question on the best occupations or home businesses for both before and after TEOTWAWKI:
Locksmith/Home security systems installer/repairman -- Beekeeping Small scale vegetable gardening. Growing herbs (medicinal) -- 1) Electricity: a. Recharge batteries for folks, rebuild the bad batteries, and lots of folks don't know squat about electricity for lighting, etc. Got several methods: Solar, miscellaneous generators powered by hand, animal, wind and even the old one lung gas engine with that darn heavy flywheel. b. Also use the above for communications when there aren't cell phones or twisted pair communications. HF, VHF, UHF and Wi-Fi. c. Also for Wi-Fi between homes and towns if computers survive. 2) Maintain RVs and trailers with their associated systems: furnaces, lighting, water, pumps, et al. 3) Make more Stills like the one I have and produce nerve tonic and fuel. 4) Medical: Apply those smelly herbs I find, grow and use. Not to mention sewing up the occasional cut and tear, set the odd bone and generally try to avoid surgery (Ha!) Let's not even talk about handling boils, although that will be around too. 5) Sorta medical: Collect, cure the Knick-Knick and sell tobacco. 6) Use my HF radios to send mail to and from families far away. 7) Make leather cups for pumps when there isn't any molded rubber around. --
Growing and maintaining quality heritage based [heirloom /non-hybrid] produce for a local farmers market but also a "seed saver" program to provide quality heritage seeds for sale or barter for future gardens. -- Almost anything in the medical field: EMT, Nurse, doctor
1. Survival skills trainer/practitioner (firearms instructor, gunsmith, hunter/trapper, adventure guide, blacksmith, carpenter (if with manual tools), plumber, cooper, potter, candle maker, stonemason/bricklayer, etc.). Skills that you can use or have value in trade, and that do not depend upon electricity are definitely the most valuable of all occupations. Having an array of these skills is the very best.
11. Lawyer (just kidding!) -- Nurseryman with perennial food plants- berries, fruits, herbs, rhubarb, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, etc. - Tuesday February 20 2007 Letter Re: U.S. Civil War Era Hardtack Recipes From North and South
Sir, These recipes are in addition to the letters on hard tack that you posted on your site: Union Army Hardtack Recipe 2 cups of flour 1/2 to 3/4 cup water 1 tablespoon of Crisco or vegetable fat 6 pinches of salt
Mix the ingredients together into a stiff batter, knead several times, and spread the dough out flat to a thickness of 1/2 inch on a non-greased cookie sheet. Bake for one- half an hour at 400 degrees. Remove from oven, cut dough into 3-inch squares, and punch four rows of holes, four holes per row into the dough. Turn dough over, return to the oven and bake another one- half hour. Turn oven off and leave the door closed. Leave the hardtack in the oven until cool. Remove and enjoy!
Confederate Johnnie Cake Recipe two cups of cornmeal 2/3 cup of milk 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon of salt
Mix ingredients into a stiff batter and form eight biscuit-sized "dodgers". Bake on a lightly greased sheet at 350 degrees for twenty to twenty five minutes or until brown. Or spoon the batter into hot cooking oil in a frying pan over a low flame. Remove the corn dodgers and let cool on a paper towel, spread with a little butter or molasses, and you have a real southern treat! Two main staples of that cataclysm--and maybe the next as well. Regards, - J.K.
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Monday February 19 2007 Letter Re: Kanban: America's Ubiquitous "Just in Time" Inventory System--A Fragile House of Cards
to eliminate; here are the 8 Wastes (to which I would add "E" for Energy to the TIM WOODS acronym, which now becomes TIMEWOODS :-) Transport (excess) Inventory (excess) Motion Energy Waiting Overproduction Overprocessing Defects Skills, Savvy, Smarts (squandering the inherent genius in all people involved)
One of the factors that has strongly encouraged lean inventories is that many states levy an annual tax on business inventories of finished good or sometimes even semi-finished subassemblies. Also, under the Federal tax law,
----Something to very careful with when composting sawdust is to be absolutely sure you do not have any sawdust from pressure treated wood. There is a myriad of nasty chemicals in this wood that will destroy your compost heap. Sawdust should not be added directly to your garden because it absorbs and holds moisture and other nutrients. Wood ashes are fine, but only add 1 or 2% Phosphorus and 3 to 7% of potassium. Wood Ashes have an alkaline effect on your soil. I put eggs shells and coffee grounds and wood ashes directly into the garden all winter on top of the snow so as it melts in the spring it helps incorporate into the soil. Before I roto-till in April, any compost I have accumulated since the previous April goes in and then I get a load of Cow /Horse manure from a neighbor. Then I roto-till and let it set until mid to late May when I plant. One last thing: Never add Chicken manure directly to the growing garden unless it has "matured" for about a month or more. It is very high in nitrogen and tends to burn plants. - Carl In Wisconsin.
Dear Jim and Family, I have a comment on the sawdust in soil issue: Sawdust absorbs between 12 and 32 times as much nitrogen as soil which does not contain it. The nitrogen helps it decay but the downside is that it makes the soil infertile. If someone tries to sell you "topsoil" and you can ID sawdust in it, you've just met an enemy who trying to pull a fast one on you, and with TEOTWAWKI looming, it could doom your whole family. The only solution to sawdust contamination in your soil is to dump a lot of nitrogen into your soil and let it fallow a year or two to convert all the sawdust into useful nutrients. Covering it in plastic sheeting and doing ammonia gas injection isn't a bad idea, as that will speed it along. Pay an expert for that. Its dangerous and explosive (Remember The Mosquito Coast? That was an Ammonia gas explosion). Then retest your soil with a kit from the farm supply store and wait for your balance to settle down. Then you can get back to building up the humic and folic acid values again (planting and harvesting crops). It's very irritating and I keep running into people who pull this particular fast one on the unsuspecting. Don't let them dump that ac**p on your land, and don't let them BS you into thinking its "good fer ya soil". It's not.
However, if the soil contains rice hulls, you've got a winner. Turns out rice hulls decay very slowly and don't absorb nitrogen but do wonders for your soil aeration, which lets roots breathe better and improves your plant health and fertility. Rice hulls are a good thing. Really good quality compost and potting soil has this. Perlite is much more common (tiny white volcanic glass beads) and does a similar task through not quite as well as rice hulls.
If your topsoil is full of clay, you'll need to add a lot more fertilizer as clay absorbs it into its crystal structure ([under a microscope] clay looks like a xylophone when it swells and shrinks depending on water content). The upshot of that is the nutrients act on your soil and plants for years afterwards so you can get your money's worth out of it. If you have too much clay in your soil, till in gypsum as it causes an important chemical/structural change. The clay reacts with gypsum and turns into small pellets which allows better aeration, drainage, and nutrient absorption. Its important to remember: Do not walk on wet clay soil. Make paths with boards around the beds. Don't compact the soil or your plants will die.
Its not too late to take a soils and horticulture or gardening class at your local community college, or look into books like "Gardening When It Counts", written by the greener side of the survival community.
One other important thing: if you use well water in volcanic areas, test it for boron or borate. Boron kills plants. Kills them really well. Its mostly harmless to humans, but to plants it's like their kryptonite, even worse than salt. Apparently using borax soap powder was a common prank for killing lawns in the 50's, though I'm not old enough to verify that one.
If your soil does get contaminated for some reason, you may need to either plant special crops to remove the toxins, or use a special chemical poison which destroys its fertility but kills everything (even nasty nematodes and soil parasites), or flood the soil for a few weeks to leach out the salts and then drain it off (method for removing sodium salt, potassium salt, selenium or borates from soil). You'll have to start from scratch with all but the plant method, rebuilding your soil fertility from ground zero takes years, most of the time, unless you've got a lot of chemical additives and a working tractor. If you want to do that, consult an expert (I'm just educated, not practically employed in that field), get a quote, and hire another expert to inspect the work.
And if you get insect problems, use sulphur based insecticides. Unless you're personally allergic to sulphur compounds they are the best bet for your soil. Plants tolerate sulphur well, and for some its an essential nutrient. It bonds to clay well and keeps out of the way after use so its win-win, for all but the allergic people.
Soils maps are easy to get from the federal government, as well as USGS, and most counties keep stocks of these maps though I've never felt the need to seek one out. I will when I someday buy a house so I know what I'm dealing with. Most government soils maps were made in the 40's and usually detail potential uses, indicating fish farms for poorly drained clay soils and suggested crops for specific soil types known to be naturally suited to them. Soil Survey Maps are a very good tool for retreat property hunting.
Incidentally, for desert soils, with irrigation and the right temperature range, will grow nearly anything. They are the most fertile soil type. You just have to avoid the borates and salt flats and washes (those aren't soils, just alluvium).Sincerely, - InyoKern
--Tuesday February 6 2007 Letter Re: Advice on Using Oak Acorns as a Survival Food One anthropologist has speculated that it was the acorn as a diet staple that made the development of civilization in Europe possible. The tannins in acorns make them bitter, make you feel sick, and can cause liver damage. So it is important to leach out the tannins before eating acorns.
Here is the basic "how to" from the University of Illinois Extension Solutions Series: Around the House:
"Acorns are very high in tannins, which make them very bitter and astringent when eaten raw. They need to be boiled or roasted, or both to make them palatable. The sweetest nuts come from the white, burr, and chestnut oaks. The black, pin, and red oak acorns are bitter. To use: Collect the acorns in the fall, when ripe. Remove the shells and caps. The shells will come off easier if you first slit them with a sharp knife. Boil the acorns whole for at least two hours, changing the water each time it becomes light brown in color. This boiling removes the bitterness and they become pleasantly sweet. You will find, after this boiling, that they are quite dark brown in color. Toast in a 350 degree F oven for another hour. They can then be eaten as they are or ground into flour."
Here is an article which includes some recipes for using acorns, that ran in one of my favorite magazines, Backwoods Home: "Harvesting the Wild: Acorns" by Jackie Clay
The latest news is that H5N1 has been found in farm poultry in England. It is just a matter of time before it makes its way into U.S. poultry flocks. But H5N1 is not in itself a big public health threat. It is the potential mutated variety "HX" that is the real threat. But for now, H5N1 has circled the globe and may become endemic. Everywhere that it exists, there is the chance that a viable "H2H" strain could emerge. When that happens, watch out!
Are you ready to self-quarantine your entire family to avoid exposure? If not, then you'd better get on the phone to a food storage vendor (there are several very reputable ones that are SurvivalBlog advertisers) and order an honest six month supply of food for your family. Do it NOW, because if you wait until after a flu outbreak, then it will be too late. The supermarket shelves will swept bare in less than 24 hours, nationwide. Human nature dictates that this will happen. That is what people always do in emergencies. We just haven't yet seen it happen from coast to coast.
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Thursday February 1 2007 Letter Re: Heirloom / Open Pollinated Seeds
--lost society and its values (or the lack thereof), and should serve as a strong reminder to the Patriot to exercise great caution not only in sharing, but in even discussing your preps. Keep up the good work, Jim. Yours in Jesus Christ our Lord, - Scott in California
JWR Replies: In my novel "Patriots" I describe a couple of methods for dispensing charity "at arm's length." One of them is through a local church. The other would be reserved for absolute worst case situation, where you would literally keep refugees off at a distance, at gun point, while you dole out food as charity. That might not sound very Christian, but it might come down to that, in a situation where law and order has completely broken down.
---blight destroyed much of the maize crop around 900 AD and probably caused the collapse of the Mayan civilization. I would recommend a trip to the library since the article is a good, sobering and interesting read, as is the October 1998 National Geographic on population and feeding the planet. Several organizations, such as The Seed Savers Exchange, have been established for education and as sources for open-pollinated seed. I find it a bit of a chuckle that many people put such an emphasis of a year's supply of food, but do not store usable seed, canning supplies and the like. What if, for hypothetical example, a flu pandemic in the US occurred and the duration was more than a few months? What if there was a new disease outbreak in our food crops, for example a new fungus attacked our wheat supply in a wet year? The trouble with genetically identical (hybrid) crops is that they would all be at risk. That is the primary risk one runs with most of your caloric food base being dependent on one or two grain or starch crops. The US used to be ready for such a crisis, but not anymore.
never planted the stuff, he found himself in court. The company (Monsanto) sued him (successfully!) when their gene was found in his crops, Even though he grew his own seed and his was contaminated. Shows a break down of common sense in the judiciary, which is no big surprise. The other problem is that by having terminator seeds, it allows direct corporate control of farmers by a corporation or government. In other words, they control what you can grow to insure 'customer loyalty'. For more on Percy Schmeiser see: Percyschmeiser.com/ Sierraclub.ca Currently only a handful of companies control most of the US seed and nursery market. A recent Countryside and Small Stock Journal article titled "Do you know where your seeds come from? You may be surprised…. The Gardening Game". The article highlights this consolidation [of seed vendors] in the US market place. Sources of open pollinated/heirloom seeds: http://www.seedstrust.com/ http://www.seedsavers.org/ http://www.seedsave.org/ http://www.rareseeds.com/ http://www.victoryseeds.com/ http://www.bountifulgardens.org/ http://www.abundantlifeseed.org/ http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/ JWR Adds: A wide assortment of heirloom seeds are also available from The Ark Institute
Unique/heirloom plants and nursery stock: http://www.treesofantiquity.com/ http://www.onegreenworld.com http://www.raintreenursery.com An Internet search for heirloom seed or open-pollinated seed will turn up many more sources. Basic "how to" instructions for saving seeds: http://www.seedsavers.org/ http://www.seedsave.org/ Several books on saving seeds, including: Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners by Suzanne Ashworth Seed Sowing and Saving: Step-By-Step Techniques for Collecting and Growing More Than 100 Vegetables, Flowers, and Herbs (Storey's Gardening Skills Illustrated) -- by Carole B. Turner Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties: The Gardener's & Farmer's Guide to Plant Breeding & Seed Saving -- by Carol Deppe Saving Seeds: The Gardener's Guide to Growing and Storing Vegetable and Flower Seeds -- by Marc Rogers, et al Books on gardening and edible landscape design: " How to Grow Vegetables and Fruits by the Organic Method", Rodale Press, out of print, but easy to find at used bookstores or e-bay. How to Grow More Vegetables: And Fruits, Nuts, Berries, Grains, and Other Crops Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine by John Jeavons (Paperback - Mar 2002) Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Introduction to Permaculture by Bill Mollison and Slay Reney-Mia Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture by Toby Hemenway and John Todd Greenhouse Gardener's Companion: Growing Food and Flowers in Your Greenhouse or Sunspace by Shane Smith and Marjorie C. Leggitt Designing And Maintaining Your Edible Landscape Naturally by Rosalind Creasy (Foreword), et al. http://www.foodforeveryone.org/ http://www.gardensimply.com/ http://www.carryongardening.org.uk/ http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/perma.html http://www.permacultureactivist.net/ http://www.foodnotlawns.com/ http://www.cwo.com/~bart/perm_links.htm http://www.sherrysgreenhouse.com/ Also refer to the extension service of your state university.
The some articles on plant disease threats: http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20050924/food.asp Dangerous Wheat Disease Jumps Red Sea. http://www.grain.org/seedling/?id=108 VOA News
Then you add into the fray the mess politics can make of crops and farm policies. Worst case: From The Christian Science Monitor From The Daily Telegraph
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Thursday January 25 2007 Two Letters Re: Survival Biscuits
Mr. Rawles: Regarding SF in Hawaii's letter about hardtack biscuits posted on January 21st, Sir: Has anyone ever looked at Scottish shortbread for survival food? Basically butter, flour, salt, and sugar. Tastes good and high in fat. I had some in a plastic Baggie for well over a month. Looked at it and ate it. No problem. - EhB
JWR Replies: Shortbread could be an option, but I'd worry about the storage life of shortbread--particularly in warm weather--given its high butter content. (The butterfat could go rancid.) In contrast, hard tack has long been proven to store very well.
The following dates back to pre-Y2K, but I still find it applicable to far too many people [that live] around me:
"The Pollyanna Mantra" I have always relied upon the complex interdependencies of society They have never failed me in the past. They will, therefore, never fail me in the future. I do not need to prepare for any problems.
* Meat comes to me in shrink-wrapped packages. * Vegetables have no dirt on them. They are always crisp and shiny. * Fish is a food product that has no bones. * Bread is neatly sliced and packaged. It Builds Strong Bodies Twelve Ways. * Potatoes are long, rectangular cubes that have salt sprinkled on them. I drive my car past a window to obtain them. * Light is provided to me 24 hours a day by glass bulbs. It is never dark. * Power for my appliances lives in the wall. I plug into it whenever I want to. * I have books. They are used for filling the empty space on my shelves. * Entertainment comes to me in a large box. It has many channels. * Sometimes I see wars in far away places on the box. Wars do not affect me personally. Wars are entertainment. Wars are not waged near where I live. * Heat comes to me as I turn up a thermostat. * Cool air comes to me as I turn down a thermostat. * Clothing comes to me pre-sewn, in my size. * When the county fair comes, I go to see the horses, cows, pigs and sheep. I do not know where they live after the county fair goes away. * Factories are far away places. They make things for me. I buy them. * I get to other places in marvelous vehicles that come to me in showrooms. I do not know how to build them, or to fix them. * My children are educated by people smarter than me. I have forgotten all I learned in school. * Peace is maintained in my neighborhood by good men in blue uniforms. They have guns. I do not. If I press 3 buttons on my phone, they will come and help me. * Medical assistance can also be obtained instantly, ..via the same three buttons. * My s**t does not stink. It goes down a porcelain hole. It goes away. * If anything goes wrong, I will look in the Yellow Pages and call someone to fix it.
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---3rd-party mind-control:Because an "emergency" is outside the "normal" range of events, people will tend to react to thoughts about disasters emotionally, not intellectually, because that is what people do when dealing with things that they have not trained for (which is why you keep hearing "practice, practice, practice!"). By definition, people reacting emotionally are not acting rationally or thoughtfully, even when they by chance do something right. If someone starts acting in any way belligerent, and says they are coming over in spite of your saying or implying that they may not be welcome, it might not be the best thing you can do to say something that they might interpret as a threat. Saying you also stock up on ammo has several problems: it scares them by being a veiled threat to their lives or security, which will make them even more irrational and reactionary; it puts you into that "loon with guns" category; it turns them off to being prepared themselves for a lot of reasons, including "we don't want to be like that survivalist nut that threatened us!"; lastly, it's telling them that if they ever do come over, they need to gang up and be sneaky about it (giving them a tactical advantage). You normally want to avoid give a potentially shooting-war enemy any kind of info on how to best take you out. Obviously there might be situations where it would "shut them up," but it may not get them on the path to independence; it may just make them think they are helpless, and vote for more government programs (and we know how great those are....) A better approach might be to ask "well, what if when you come over you are the fifth in a line of families who also came over, and they don't want to share, or there isn't any left? Or, what if I move away for a new job and the disaster hits the following week? Then what?" You are putting the threat of them starving, or freezing, or whatever into a neutral frame of reference, where you are not the threat, the situation or some unnamed third party is. It is imperative to keep it neutral, so they can think rationally rather than emotionally or defensively, and they don't think of you as the enemy, but think of the disaster situation as the enemy. Stress that independence is the goal, and anything that makes them dependant on you hurts both if something bad happens to you. If they say or imply that they would be willing and able to take your preparation supplies by force (saying "I've got guns, you have food. By the end of the day I'll have both" for example), that's a whole different turn of events. They have just declared to the world that they are a sociopath, a looter in waiting, with means and motive to attack you in a disaster situation. If you have stocked up on ammo (of course you have, right?), don't make it a pissing match about who has more or better stuff; a simple "there are likely easier targets you might want to try to take ammo from than my neighborhood, unless you are really good at detecting booby-traps and dodging lead bumble-bees from multiple directions" puts it terms that they will likely understand. It's vague enough to not get you into trouble, but implies a lot of things they might take to heart, even if you don't currently have any booby-trap plans, and you are the only one in the cul-de-sac with a gun and thorough disaster plans. Then immediately leave or kick them out; don't hang around for them to gather more info about you. Always keep it civil, polite, and neutral. There is no benefit in making enemies; winning friends, expanding your mutual-assistance and mutual-defense circles are the goal, and you cannot do that making threats (direct or veiled), scaring people, insulting people, or making them angry or confused. Once they are onboard with the idea, then you can get into details. - Rolf
---type neighbor and his family, and the family on the other side. Pretty soon the fast talking neighbor decides that they should form a "democracy" to determine who is in charge in your retreat, and how the food and supplies are split – "fairly". This is the type that would probably cut a secret deal with the other neighbor too. Never lose sight of the fact that it is your stuff. Your stuff is not up for re-distribution. Remember the new golden rule. Those who have the gold make the rules. Not very Christian? Well , I disagree, you can, and I think should, give charitably, but that most certainly does not mean surrendering to others and becoming an indigent in short time yourself, and more so, putting your family in that situation. Finally, let us also admit here that letting people you our retreat/home/bunker can be dangerous. We all must sleep, and are vulnerable when we do. The very last thing you want to do is wake up to someone holding your gun on you. Consider security, be charitable, but guarded, especially as to whom you grant your trust. - Rourke
--The history of biscuits started off in Rome around the 3rd Century BC. The word biscuit comes from the Latin bis coctum which means "twice-baked". Back then, a biscuit was a thin unleavened wafer, quite hard, and with a very low water content - hence the name "twice-baked". The advantage of the low water content was that the biscuit would have a long shelf-life, because it wouldn't get moldy. Adding eggs or meat to the biscuit mix increases protein content but it will not last as long. Mixing a complementary proteins (grains with dairy, grains with beans and beans with seeds) will provide a more complete protein and have a longer shelf life. When properly made, they travel well and are satisfying and nutrient dense. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: "Hard tack" biscuits, "ship's biscuits", or "pilot bread" have long been a staple for trappers, explorers, sled team mushers, seamen, and mining prospectors. They are a compact food with decent shelf life, and easy to digest. Modern plastic zip lock bag packaging can keep them dry and fresh--eliminating the "soggy, moldy biscuits" problem cited by 19th Century explorers. I like your idea of mixing in beans to form a more complete protein. Pound for pound, there are few foods--aside for some freeze dried marvels--that can compare with a combination of hardtack, jerky, peanut butter, honey, and dried fruit. Just be sure that your digestive system can cope with this diet before trying to subsist on it for more than a couple of days. You might need to add some natural roughage such as bran flakes, or perhaps even a commercial
FWIW, here is a compilation of my top 15 survival fantasies and misconceptions:
1. You can fit everything you need for extended survival in a backpack 2. A single shot not hitting the brain or spinal cord less or than .40/.44/.45 caliber will stop an attacker before he can kill you 3. I don't need to bring that much water 4. The government is here to help 5. I'm in good enough shape right now to hike 20 miles with a 70 pound pack 6. Everything I have stored still works, hasn't expired, I know how to use it and I know where it is 7. I can buy what I need at the first sign of impending crisis 8. My kids can keep up with me on an extended hike 9. Farming/livestock/hunting/fishing/trapping are easy to learn from a book, I don't need practical experience 10. God will help me. I'll be in the right place at the right time if I am a good person 11. I can argue/discuss/bargain with a bad guy(s). I don't have to shoot them. 12. If I shoot them, I can wound them, I don't have to kill. 13. By virtue of my obvious survival knowledge, foresight and preparedness, my family/friends/neighbors will agree that I am the best suited to lead our newly formed fledgling survival group and will listen and carry out my suggestions. 14. Life in TEOTWAWKI will be fun. Since there will be no more taxes/bills/mortgage to pay and I don't have to show up for work it will be hard but rewarding. Add that to the satisfaction of being able to say "I told you so" and given my preparations, I'll be better off then than I am now. 15. My stash of silver pre-1965 coins will let me live like a king
Survival fantasies. We all have them, and we all need to lose them. - SF in Hawaii
---over-specialization, and lengthy supply chains. In the First World, less than 2% of the population is engaged in agriculture or fishing. Ponder that for a moment: Just 2% are feeding the other 98%. The food on our tables often comes from hundreds if not thousands of miles away. Our heating and lighting is provided by power sources typically hundreds of miles away. For many people even their tap water travels hundreds of miles. Our factories produce sophisticated cars and electronics that have subcomponents that are sourced on three continents. It is as if we are all cogs in an enormous invisible machine
---stories like: "Suzie Smith brought the flu bug home from school. Everyone in her family died." and, "Mr. Jones brought the flu home from work. Everyone in his family died." Over and over. Repeated so many times that the majority of citizens decides "I'm not going to go to work tomorrow, or the day after, or in fact until after 'things get better.'" But by not going to work, some important cogs will be missing from the Big Machine. Orders won't get processed at the Wal-Mart distribution center. The 18 Wheel trucks won't make deliveries to groceries stores. Gas stations will run out of fuel. Policemen and firemen won't show up at work. Telephone technicians will call in sick. Power lines will get knocked down in wind storms, and there will be nobody to repair them. Crops will rot in the fields because there will be nobody to pick them, or transport them, or magically bake them into Pop-Tarts, or stock them on your supermarket shelf. The Big Machine will be broken.
Does this sound scary? Sure it does, and it should. The implications are huge. But it gets worse: The average suburbanite only has about a week's worth of food in their pantry. What will they do when it is gone, and there is no reasonably immediate prospect of re-supply? Supermarket shelves will be stripped bare. Faced with the alternative of staying home and starving or going out to meet Mr. Influenza, millions of growling stomachs will force Joe American to go and "forage." The first likely targets will be restaurants, stores, and food distribution warehouses. Not a few "foragers" will soon transition to full scale looting, taking the little that their neighbors have left. Next, they'll move on to farms that are in close proximity to cities. A few looters will form gangs that will be highly mobile and well-armed, ranging deeper and deeper into farmlands, running their vehicles on siphoned or stolen-at-gunpoint gasoline. Eventually their luck will run out and they will all die of the flu, or of instantaneous lead poisoning. But before the looters are all dead they will do a tremendous amount of damage. Be ready to confront them. Your life, and the lives of your loved ones will count on it. You'll need to be able to put a lot of lead down range--at least enough to convince Mr. Looter that he needs to go find some other farm or ranch to loot.
---"greedy hoarder." Saying "I would have a hard time justifying taking food out of my children's mouth tomorrow to feed a casual acquaintance today, especially if we did not know when services were going to be restored and supplies replaced" puts a whole different appearance on it. Information is your friend; don't start by telling them what you have, what you have planned, how stupid they are for not being equally well prepared, etc. Find out a bit about their mind-set, skill-set, resources, and then go from there in the best direction. Best of luck with your next "conversion" into the mindset of independence and preparedness!
---Letter Re: Dog Food Alternatives and Dog Food Safety Warnings
Jim, Regarding Ginger B feeding her dog baked potatoes: Always be certain that potatoes are cut into small pieces before feeding them to dogs. Many of them (large dogs in particular) will simply swallow a baked potato whole, leading to awful problems and potentially, death. Another food that most folks are unaware of any danger from is onion, which is lethal to dogs and cats. Be careful not to feed them table scraps that have onion mixed in with them, not even in flavoring agents. The result of onion toxicity is anemia, which is difficult for the lay-person to diagnose (it can creep up slowly over weeks of time). There are other foods one needs to be aware of too. Most people know about chocolate [toxicity for dogs] but coffee beans, grapes/raisins and macadamia nuts
Thursday January 11 2007 Ten Things That Will Get You Killed While Bugging In, by Paul C.
"Bugging in" is the term used for staying at home while waiting for an event to pass you by. [As opposed to "bugging out"--fleeing to a lightly populated region.] Even the largest civil events of the last one hundred years haven't set society off here in the United States of its normal course for more than two weeks. Double that for a month and you'll survive, or out survive, any event likely to hit. After whatever event that has set society on its end has struck the 99 out of one hundred people that haven't prepared for survival are going to be out looking for supplies. Those people will have some sort of firearm likely and as hunger, dehydration, and panic set in they will become more and more willing to use violence as a means to secure what they want from you. I recommend keeping the lowest possible profile possible as stealth is one of the best weapons available. 1. Starvation. You need to have enough food on your shelves for at least a month. Stock up on military MREs, canned soups, and canned meats. Foods that do not require cooking are a bonus as they can be quickly eaten without generating a fire --- Realize that some food containers will rot out fairly quickly – use clean soda bottles rather then milk containers if you're storing water on the cheap. 3. Exposure to Extreme Weather. The weather is something that continues even when we're having problems. Imagine your home without the normal supply of electrical and natural gas energy during the worse spell of weather a typical winter can throw at you. Without a source of energy your home will do little more than supply shelter from the wind and rain or snow. Propane heaters can provide clean burning heat but like any source of combustion they require a supply of fresh air less they burn up all the oxygen in the room. Do not burn charcoal indoors as it not only burns up the oxygen it gives off deadly carbon monoxide.Synthetic materials that retain some warming ability even when wet are important. Keep your feet, hands, head and neck warm as they are where most heat is lost from. Mittens are far better at keeping hands warm then gloves. A tiny hole can allow the use of the trigger finger. ---Red filters will help keep the use of light discrete. Draw your shades or blinds like normal and then nail blankets, cardboard, or better yet, pre-prepared plywood over the insides. This effort will keep in heat, hold down the noise, block light, and add some protection against looters or attackers. 6. Smoke. Smoke can be seen for a great distance as can the smell of it or cooking food. --- 8. Activity. If you're trying to remain hidden in plain sight motion will certainly give you away. Chores that require you to leave the house should be done only after dark. Wear dark clothing or better camouflage that matches your environment. Resting during the day and patrolling or gathering after dark maintains the lowest profile. If you do have to move about during the day stay off of trails, streets, and ridge lines where you're likely to be seen first. The use of passive night vision goggles can help greatly--- Nuclear weapons kill by blast and radiation. Dirt is your friend with both forms of energy. Ideally being shielded by massive quantities of dirt is the best protection. Living on the far side of a mountain or having a basement shelter where you can keep below the initial blast of radiation. Fallout is radioactive matter in the dust and debris that follows a blast. Most fallout settles within hours, within days it is almost completely gone. Weather can help with rainfall and high winds. The longer you can stay sheltered the lower your chance of getting radiation sickness is. Filtering the air within your shelter can be done with gas masks. You should become familiar with the fit and feel of a mask prior to needing one. Protecting against some chemical agents is similar to nuclear fallout. Those chemicals that are dust like can be filtered with ease, gas-like agents will dissipate with time and wind. Oily chemicals can spread with contact with contaminated surfaces. Wearing disposable chemical resistant coveralls, gloves, and over-boots can keep contaminates outside when coming back indoors. Biological agents are greatly affected by the weather and can be rendered harmless by sun, rain, cold, and heat. Avoiding them is a matter of keeping buttoned up for a few days or possibly weeks. 10. Communications It is only natural to desire to communicate with outside loved ones. This will normally require the use of a amateur "ham" radio, CB, or FRS radio. Realize that the ability to track the source of communications isn't that difficult. Amateur radio clubs do "fox hunts" to practice finding hidden transmitters. If you do use radio communications keep them short and cryptic if the event becomes really serious and to the point where people are getting desperate. One time pads can be used – both parties have a look-up table to decode prearranged phrases. These are changed each patrol. Have a wideband scanner receiver so that you can listen for the authorities or even on other [survival] group's communications. - Paul C.
-----All the stored seed, fancy heirloom varieties in the world will not feed your people if you're not educated and experienced in gardening in your area. The spot of your refuge may have a very different microclimate than where you live now. Use that brain; you must absolutely get "Hands on" experience growing that food in sufficient quality/quantity to do the job now, not later. Later is too late. I promise you that growing beans or tomatoes at sea level here in Olympia, Washington. Is very different than at 3,000 feet of elevation in intermountain Idaho. Own hardcopy books on this subject stored at the retreat, the Internet will be down and memory may not serve.
Now to the "must know/must have" list for garden food: Seed; only varieties that your family will eat, that fit your microclimate, degree days, and total growing season. Find out what these terms mean. Opt for open pollinated ["heirloom'], stay away from exotics and hybrids. Learn how to save seed. Prep; new garden soil will rarely produce well without changing its chemistry, adding organic matter, or adding structure. Gardens need a lot of water. Figure how to gravity feed irrigate unless you can store a lot of fuel for the generator. All this must be done ahead of time before the real need arises. Put back extra Dolomite. Find and store manures and other organic materials. Store extra garden tools. Start; Many "bug out" areas have climate challenges for gardeners; consider cold frames and other season extenders. Get these in place ahead of time, plastic row covers, fiberglass panels and the like may be hard to find later. You must get in tune with your local growing season and this takes practice. What would happen to your family if your garden frosted out and you had planted all the seed you had stored? Always hold some seed back. Some areas frost every month so get educated and prepare a defense. Store; Once you've grown it, defended the crop from rabbits, deer, etc. you're not done yet. Eat all you can yes, process the rest. Family food consumption lists are available or you can estimate what each person will eat per week then add it all up. Add some more for charity or refugees. This represents a lot of quart jars, rings, lids, and other supplies for just a small family for a year. What if the situation lasts longer? Consider dehydration for some foodstuffs, pickling or salting for others and of course all this needs practice before need too. The root cellar seems to be a forgotten art but works well as does leaving root crops in the ground to be dug when needed. They must be covered to protect against freezing and rot. Perennials need a mention here also. Berries, rhubarb, sunchokes, and fruit/nut trees can be planted and will just be waiting for you. Plant more than you can use as folk that have been eating groats for the last two months will make amazing trades for fresh fruit. Food growing augments the bulk grains and beans you own and makes for a better all around diet than all those freeze dried packages in the closet the last 10 years. As with any food program just make sure what you grow and store is what your family will eat. If all this seems like too much work, it is; what is the plan "B"? P.S.: We live on the west side of Washington State and just experienced a huge storm, [which resulted in] more than a week without power for many people in the region. Attitudes went downhill fast. Any major disruption would be much worse, so this is a real wake up call. - Bill K.
----If you have any ground that is swampy from spring to fall on your property ("wetlands" in the modern politically correct parlance), consider planting domesticated wild rice in those areas. Technically "wild rice" isn't really rice at all, since it is in the grass genus (Zirzania) rather than the rice genus (Oryza.) Like other grain growing, planting wild rice will also attract waterfowl and other birds, which can be a mixed blessing. So consider a shotgun and beau coup shotgun shells to be part of your assortment grain growing essential tools.
Sprouting: To get the maximum nutrition from the grain that you raise, you should plan to sprout the majority of it. For some details on sprouting, see the article "Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods", by SF in Hawaii. It is one the writing contest winners posted at the SurvivalBlog Writing Contest page. Lay in supplies for sprouting and practice the art of sprouting before the balloon goes up!
Practice, practice, practice!: As with any other newly acquired skill, grain raising, harvesting, storage, milling, and sprouting will take practice. Develop your expertise now, when any mistakes will be merely humorous blunders rather than potentially life-threatening disasters.
---Semi-rural and rural families have the possibility of long term survival with adequate preparedness. 1. Everything starts with planning. The first of every year should be list of what is needed for survival. If you're just starting. Then a list for three to six months is a good starting place. After that long term projects and items are included in subsequent lists. Every year I make a list of at least twenty-five goals in the area of survival to accomplish. Every hour of actual preparedness should be directly related to an equal time in study and planning. A good survival library is a must. 2. Study and research into the field of Survival will become your second job. This is serious study and not just reading internet blogs. Several months ago I was annoyed by a lady that was asking questions on an internet site that revealed that she had only an elementary school level of knowledge of first aid and was totally clueless about nuclear fallout. Yet she had found time to post over 850 entries over the last six months, but not had bothered to do even the most basic reading. 3. Your bug out bag should be in your car and contain what is needed to get home if the roads are gridlocked and you have to walk. Your home should be your survival outpost. The last thing you should become is a fleeing refugee being herded into a government refugee camp. 4. Develop an operation plan that details what each family member is expected for them to do during the first 72 hours of a situation. Different tasks for different situations. This will keep a focus on accomplishing necessary tasks that will make the difference between a family's survival or succumbing to the disaster. 5. Prepare for those that are welcome to hunker-down with you. This is the worse part; you must give a warning in uncompromising language that others must come prepared to your gate. Recently my best friend from childhood observe red one of my many storage shelves and exclaimed, "Why should I prepare, I'm coming to stay with you if anything happens". Sadly I had to inform him if he showed at the gate with nothing but his appetite, he would be turned away. He asked if our lifelong friendship didn't mean anything. I simply replied, "Which one of my children goes hungry, so that I can feed you?" 6. Do include those that you know well that are willing to make the commitment to actively contribute and not be a burden to your family's survival. Two other families will join us in their campers and they have already stored their year's supply of dehydrated food in our basement. Besides, you will always need the additional firepower in an unpleasant situation.
Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.
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Product Review - RAD-60 Personal Dosimeter from Finland |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:
Thursday December 14 2006 Letter Re: Property Owning "Refugees" on Adjoining Property
--- JWR Replies: You are correct that most owners of vacation property have the idea kicking around in a dusty corner of their mind that they could use that property as a retreat in the event of an emergency. If we enter an era of deep drama, the legal status of "squatters" versus deeded landholders will be worlds apart: Squatters could and probably will be forced from public or private holdings by your local sheriff's department or by the BLM or US Forest Service. But for those that occupy land that they legally own--regardless of how poorly provisioned they are--there would be no recourse for the sheriff's deputies unless or until the newcomers actually started committing thefts or robberies. This is one of the reasons that I place strong emphasis on A.) Storing extra to dispense in charity, and B.) Getting to know all of your neighbors. The latter includes making the effort to introduce yourself to absentee owners that are only there seasonally. (Or, "deer seasonally"--as is the case of one of ours that that has an undeveloped parcel just three miles away. (That is considered practically "next door" by l
--- rifle in that caliber.") Also, make provision to coordinate security with them. For example by purchasing a spare military surplus field telephones and a couple of "doughnuts" of WD-1 commo wire.) Don't underestimate the impact of of "landed refugees." The good news is that if they can afford to own a vacation cabin, then they can probably also afford to stock it properly. But the bad news is that if they don't stock their cabins then they will become charity cases at best, or potentially even confrontational armed looters in a "worst case."
---"Salt is (1) very cheap now (2) can be sold in small packages at market (3) virtually impossible to obtain in TEOTWAWKI if you are away from the ocean (4) required for life. Add in iodized salt and doubly so. Remember the Goiter belts? (5) Divisible as it is a powder (6) recognizable by taste (7) virtually indestructible." And "A $100 investment in salt now could easily be worth a fortune in another time and place."
I have noted the importance of salt for home canning, meat preservation, and hide tanning in a post-electric world, and have one pound boxes of iodized salt taking up space in my basement already. Now factor in that for our water softener I have salt delivered to my door at fifteen cents per pound in 40 lb bags (also already stacked up and taking up space in my basement!). There's 250 lbs of salt already on hand and taking up storage space that could be freed up. I think the course is clear. My shelter ceiling will be filled with salt. It is cheap, easy to obtain, easily dividable into marketable sizes, needed for life, and when sealed in the plastic bags it is delivered in and stored in what is probably the driest place in my home – ought to store forever.
JWR Adds: Be sure to over-engineer the bracing required when you add weight to a basement ceiling. A "dead load" can become a killing load
----
end of 28foode.txt (best clips) --- 28foodf.txt (best parts):
Friday November 17 2006 Letter Re: Barter as an Investment and a Hedge
While barter for necessities is one possibility, barter for wealth is another. A poor man with a small investment in an essential TEOTWAWKI item can magnify his wealth. If you are not in a position to outfit yourself with the food/weapons/tools you would like now, consider a barter investment. Something you can get cheaply now, and then trade for the items that are currently out of your budget. When choosing barter goods for storage, consider seven things. Original cost, size, availability, need, divisibility, verification, and indestructibility. Items stored for barter should: (1) Have a very low initial cost. In this way, barter becomes an investment, hedging against TEOTWAWKI (2) Be small enough to take to market easily (3) Be things very easy to obtain now and virtually impossible to obtain later due to the manufacturing process involved. (4) Be things that you cannot easily live without (5) Be easily divisible into smaller units (6) Be easily and universally verifiable as being non-counterfeit (7) Be resistant to the elements and time I put forth Iodized salt. In Roman times, soldiers were paid in salt at the rate of about 150 pounds per year. That's less than 1/2 a pound a day. The word salary comes from the word salt. In some parts of the ancient world, salt and gold were traded equally by weight. You may consider the loss of salt a minor inconvenience but that is not so. You eat salt all day long without knowing it. Soda, bread, every food you eat is loaded with it. If you were truly given a salt free diet (no processed foods) and had to do any kind of manual labor, the sweat loss of salt could literally kill you. Iodine is a heavy element that washes away with the rain and so is not found in mountainous areas and away from the oceans. Lack of iodine causes goiter. Salt is (1) very cheap now (2) can be sold in small packages at market (3) virtually impossible to obtain in TEOTWAWKI if you are away from the ocean (4) required for life. Add in iodized salt and doubly so. Remember the Goiter belts? (5) Divisible as it is a powder (6) recognizable by taste (7) virtually indestructible. My second choice is the .22 rimfire cartridge which satisfies numbers 2,3,5, and 6. A $100 investment in salt now could easily be worth a fortune in another time and place. - SF in Hawaii
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Odds 'n Sods: |Main| The Forgotten Survival Skill: Physical Fitness, by Ron D.
Friday November 10 2006 Two Letters Re: Alcohol and Tobacco as Barter Items
Mr. Rawles: Thanks to Warhawke for his very well written article. There are two items conspicuous in their absence, tobacco and alcohol. I seem to remember reading somewhere, perhaps in the novel Lucifer's Hammer, that people will always w---Gets You Ready" preparedness course, if I were to stock any sort of liquor, it would probably be 190 proof Everclear, which can be used for medicinal purposes, can be burned in lamps and some stoves, and can be used to fuel wick-type cigarette lighters such as the legendary Zippo.
survive, but a large supply of barter goods as well. I had first aid supplies, water purification tabs, a nice collection of knives, guns, and ammunition, and a number of items that Frank's novel pointed out would be in short supply post disaster. Things like coffee, salt, and batteries were all part of my emergency supplies. When I turned 18 I joined the Army and volunteered for Special Forces just so I---- Do Your Prior Planning If you haven't made a list of supplies – and this should be a total list of supplies, not just the ones you still need – get one made, copy one from the Internet or use one from FEMA or the Red Cross. Break it into manageable sections or categories. I use "kits" for my lists. There's a "Water Kit" that lists all things pertaining to water; canteens, holders, cups, filters, spares, etc. There's a Food Kit, Shelter Kit, Commo Kit, Light Kit, Knife Kit, Gun Kit, and the always needed Miscellaneous Kit. My Kits lists go on for over 20 pages, but when I have all of that equipment together and ready to go then I'll know I'm almost prepared. Make you a list and make it complete. Now do an inventory of all of the things you already have. You may be surprised at the number of things you can check off your list. If you are a hunter, no doubt you already have one or more hunting knives, you should have boots, and field clothing, you may have a small pack you use in the field and canteens or water bottles. You probably carry rope, maybe a compass, and you might carry a pack saw, hatchet, or machete to clear your fields of fire. And, you already have some items to add to your gun kit. Are you a camper, backpacker, canoeist, boater, fisherman or outdoors type person? Then you've already got some preparedness equipment – mark it off the list. As you mark it off the list, put today's date on it. That will at least give you a reference for how old something might be so you'll know when you may need to replace it. Obviously, you're not going to put a date on every item. For instance, I wouldn't put a date on my military compass w/tritium markings, but I would put a date on my inventory sheet just as a reference. Dating items becomes important when you have to rotate stock (canned foods) or replace outdated items (medications). These items not only need to have the date on the item, but each one should be dated on your inventory sheets, as well.
Looking for What You Need Once you've done your inventory and compared it to your list, you can make your list of items still needed. Now's when the fun starts – it's time to start looking for the items you still need. I have spent countless hours on the Internet looking for distributors, comparing prices, doing Google searches, writing to chat groups looking for items or advice, and, yes, actually ordering many of the items I need. I know, JWR recommends we not order online using our credit cards because it puts us in somebody's database, but by the time I got that advice it was way too late for me. I figure I'm already in so many databases they'll be too confused to worry about me anyway.Set Priorities --- With water as # 1 priority in a survival situation I decided to make it my # 1 priority in becoming prepared. I already had two military canteens from my ---water purification tabs to complete my water kits in all of my emergency kits. Obviously that's not the only items in my water kits but this gives you some idea of how I went about completing my purchases. My First Aid Kit was next, although I did make a few purchases toward getting w---In Conclusion Get prepared – that is, make your lists, do your inventories, and know ahead of time what you need. Stay alert for sales and opportunities to purchase at reduced prices. And buy what you can when you can, save for the things you need, and no matter what you're still missing when TSHTF you'll be far better off than if you did nothing. Don't depend on Uncle Sam – he cannot and will not do it all. Don't depend on friends and family – they all have their own to take care of. Stock up for yourself and be ready to share with those less fortunate and in need.--- Monday November 6 2006 Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods, by SF in Hawaii
One of the problems with stored food is the inevitable deterioration of the vitamin content. You don't have to worry about the mineral content going anywhere but vitamins are notoriously fragile. While many have asked for the best kind of multi-vitamin supplement for long term storage, the answer for the survival community is simpler. Many of us have buckets of wheat stored. So make wheat sprouts and wheatgrass juice. Vitamins increase substantially during the sprouting process. In regards to wheat, vitamin B-12 quadruples, other B vitamins increase from 3 to 12 times and the vitamin E content triples. Vitamins A, K and others also increase. Amino acid levels (the building blocks of proteins) similarly increase and fiber content increases three to four times that of whole wheat bread. Dry seeds, grains, and legumes are rich in protein and complex carbohydrates but contain no vitamin C. Fortunately, the sprouting process creates 20 milligrams of Vitamin C per 3.5 ounces of wheat. Sprouts can be eaten in as little as 48 hours after soaking (and rinsing). No light is required for the first few days and at this stage, they are more grain than vegetable. Over time (and with light) chlorophyll begins to form and they transition from grain to vegetable. Eating them takes a bit of getting used to. Young sprouts can be eaten whole and are very chewy, and sweet. No cooking needed. They are an excellent G.O.O.D. food for your survival pack. All you need is a glass mason jar and a mesh cap. Go to your local health food store and ask for the plastic ventilated tops that fit over mason jars for sprouting. If you want to decrease the weight, put them in a stocking or plastic paint strainer mesh (available at your hardware store) and then into a plastic wide mouth bottle. As you travel, the wheat will convert into chewy nutritious little snacks. In terms of travel, if you think that you will have access to water (hiking near a river or other other water source) but no cooking fuel (wintertime and it's wet) then this is an excellent option. They sprout while you hike. If a member of the party has dental problems, make a mortar and pestle from two rocks and crush the sprouts before eating them. Remember, we don't manufacture cellulose, the enzyme that other animals have to break down plant fiber. If you don't cook or juice your vegetable, you must chew (or crush) them to get anything out of them. Here is a list of other seeds/grains/beans you can sprout as well as how to sprout in a jar.
If you have the time and inclination, you can go from the sprout stage to the grass stage. Again, this shifts the wheat from grain to vegetable. This will change the relative protein, carbohydrate and vitamin composition so I suggest you use your powers of observation. If you crave the sprouts at one growing stage versus another, honor it. It's your body telling you that given your current state of malnutrition, that stage of the sprout you are craving contains the maximum amount of what you need. Wheatgrass juice is a little sweet and many will get nauseous even if they drink only an ounce at a time. It is very potent stuff, but not dangerous. Here is a link for sprouting to the grass stage including techniques to sprout without soil or trays (you can even use a baby blanket): Be mindful that when going for the grass stage, hygiene is everything. You must start with clean grain or mold will grow on them. Wheatgrass juice can be chewed but this is very labor intensive. Ann Wigmore who made wheatgrass juice famous ate grass from her lawn with her grandmother during the war in Germany and attributes it to her and her Grandmother not starving to death. I think that a wheatgrass juicer is a very sound investment, as important as any other in my survival kitchen. No, a regular juicer will not work. You will need a wheatgrass juicer. With it you can also juice other leafy greens if you like. Manual wheatgrass juicers are not overly expensive unless you want to go stainless steel but they all work pretty much the same way. [JWR Adds: Used wheatgrass juicers can sometimes be found on eBay for very reasonable prices.] If you have wheat then you have bread and vegetables if you know how to juice. In the summer months, if you have grass growing nearby and it hasn't been sprayed with pesticides and other lawn chemicals you have a garden you may not have been aware of. While not all grasses are necessarily safe to eat, you can experiment with a drop at a time. As with all suspect plant life, first put a drop on your skin and see if it gets irritated over the next few hours. If that works, next put a drop under your tongue and spit it out. Was it bitter or soapy or was there a milky sap? (A survival botanist who wants to elucidate/correct this would be appreciated.) If not and if you feel okay after another few hours, next try to drink a drop. With some experimentation you may be able to determine if the grass varieties growing wild in your local meadow are safe for consumption. While many other sprouts are also useful and certainly more tasty and easier to manage (mung, buckwheat, adzuki) wheat is something that anyone reading this blog is likely to have in abundance. You can, however, sprout any grain or bean too increase it's vitamin content. Also, sprouting does not mean you must eat it raw. You can sprout your beans and grains and then still cook with them. The chinese do this with mung beans in their cooking. You will lose some of the vitamin content by cooking them but you will still end up with a meal many times higher in vitamin content than otherwise. - SF in Hawaii
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Re: Fireless Cooking in an Crock Pot Adapted Ice Chest, by B.B. |Main| Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods, by SF in Hawaii
Letter Re: Question About Humidity and Food Grade Plastic Food Storage Buckets
Hi, If food for long term storage is put in a plastic five gallon bucket with silica gel and a mylar bag, how much does it matter how humid the outside air is after it is completely packed? For instance, if the only place to store the food is in a shed outside will humidity in the air get into the bucket? How important is dry storage air to the time the food can be successfully stored. Thanks, - C.N. in North Carolina
JWR Replies: Food grade plastic food storage buckets are designed to be air and moisture tight when properly sealed. Once sealed, they should not gain any moisture over time. As previously noted, in damp climates, it is best to do your food storage packaging during a dry month of the year. Be sure to enclose several oxygen absorbing packet and a silica gel desiccant packet. Inspect each lid's rubber gasket for softness and for any foreign matter before seating the lids. Use a rubber or leather mallet to seat them firmly. BTW, you will probably find that you'll need a "lid lifter" tool for when you eventually open your buckets. (These are sometimes called "bucket opening wrenches" by some vendors.) They are available from Ready Made Resources, Mountain Brook Foods, Nitro-Pak, and a variety of other Internet food storage vendors.
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Letter Re: Fireless Cooking in an Crock Pot Adapted Ice Chest, by B.B.
Friday November 3 2006 How Long Until You Starve?, by Mr. Yankee
How long would you survive if you could never buy groceries again? Now consider how much worse that scenario would be if everyone you know was faced with the same question. It may have more relevance than you think. The food distribution system in industrialized nations has a complexity which baffles the mind.(start local-grown networks sca localharvest.org quikly!) --- Animal Identification System (NAIS) proposes to ID and track every single food animal in America. This program will make it illegal to keep unregistered livestock. This may not only prompt some people to avoid keeping stock (who needs more paperwork?) but also creates the real potential for government abuse. NAIS is already in the pilot test phase. It is currently bcompanies on a global scale. A neighbor of mine owns a seed company that has bought twenty five competitors in the past decade! It would take very few corporate buyouts or mergers to put control of the majority of the world food supply under one board of directors. If the majority of seeds in circulation for producing grain crops are hybrids (and I think they are). We have no choice but to pay whatever they ask for next year's seeds. If you let that sink in for a moment and you will realize a terrifying potential for the abuse of power. What can you do? As in preparing for any danger, emergency or shortage, you should provide for your basic needs in advance. #1 Store a food and water reserve to see you through the initial crisis. If you are reading Survivalblog, chances are good that you already consider storage food as a basic preparation. Consider storing as much as you can up to the limit of food that you will consume before proper rotation prevents spoilage.#2 Open pollinated "heirloom" seeds and the ability to raise your own crops (at least "gardening") are part of the answer. Buy your seeds now, practice planting, harvesting, storing the food, and saving your own seeds to plant for the next season. It is worth noting that some varieties thrive in one climate or soil type, but fail miserably in other locations. It would be prudent to test the crops you hope to survive on. Ideally you could establish a large number of perennial crops such as Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, berry bushes, and fruit trees to harvest from in the future. Non-hybrid seeds are still available from many sources including The Ark Institute, Heirloomseeds.com, and The Seedsavers Exchange. #3 Don't overlook unconventional sources of food. With a little research you should be able to recognize wild forage plants and prepare them for your table. Dandelions can be found almost anywhere including in urban areas from earliest spring through late fall. Their leaves can be eaten raw or boiled as vitamin laden greens. Even if you don't care for the taste of the greens, the nectar bearing yellow flower is a slightly sweet wild treat. Every part of the wild onion (a.k.a. "ramps" or "leeks") is edible (wild onions) but they may be hard to find in winter. One truly four season food is the cat-tail. It has edible shoots in spring, leaves and pollen in summer, and roots in autumn and winter (cat-tail). As an example of what a little knowledge can do to put food on your table, I recently saw "gobo" (a.k.a. burdock roots) for sale in large chain grocery store for $4 per pound. #4 If keeping domestic livestock or poultry is an option----Here's a slick solution: "fireless" cooking. Your crock-pot is the latest application of this old, old idea. But the old idea as you will see is better because your homemade fireless cooker won't require electricity. The idea is simple: food in a pot is heated to boiling on your stove, then allowed to simmer for a few minutes; then the pot lid is clapped on and the pot is quickly transferred to a well insulated box. More insulation is stuffed around and on top of the pot, filling the entire box; then the lid is closed tightly. Now you can turn off the stove! After four hours or so (timing is not critical), the food is ready to eat. If the pot is not disturbed (peeking is not allowed!), the food will still be hot even after six or more hours. Here's the payoff: (1) not much fuel is used and (2), the food can be prepared well before it is needed. Y---JWR Replies: Whole kernel corn can be stored for up to 10 years and still have decent nutritive value. Once ground into corn meal, however, the practical shelf life declines to two years or less. High temperature is real shelf life killer with all stored foods, including corn. High temperatures can shorten potential shelf lives by one half, or even more. Do your best to store your food in the coolest part of your house. High humidity is another problem. It is best to do your packaging in the most dry months of the year for your particular climate. When storing bulk foods in five gallon food grade buckets, be sure to use oxygen absorbing packets as well as a small packet of silica gel. (The only exception would be popping corn which won't pop if it gets too dry.) Keep buckets sealed until you need to use the food. When you do break the seal, unless you have the need to use the entire contents within a few weeks time, then it is best to open the bucket and pour out just 1/3 to 1/2 of the contents for immediate use and then go through the full re-sealing process with the remainder. In answer to your question on bucket liners: I use 8 mil thickness bags, but 4 mil will suffice. (You need to handle them gently to avoid punctures, regardless of their thickness.) Since you will be sealing the bucket liner bag, the oxygen absorbing packets and silica gel. packets should be inside of that bag, on top of the grain. Mylar bags are available from a number of large Internet food storage vendors including Ready Made Resources and Nitro-Pak. You might also check Promised Land Products, Best Prices Storable Foods, and Lehman's. OBTW, I have found that a standard size liner will work with buckets of up to six gallon capacity.
Tuesday October 17 2006 Letter Re: TVP is a Poor Choice for Food Storage
Jim: Many commercially packaged storage food "package deals" load up on Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP) for protein. I would eat TVP if I had to, but if you are considering buying food for storage, stick to eggs and meat. TVP comes from soybeans, and soybeans are not a good human food. To explain: Plants can be placed on a continuum from harmless fruits, vegetables and common grains, to poisonous plants like deathcap mushrooms. With the exception of fruits (seeds pass through our digestion and we 'deposit' them in remote locations thus propagating the plant species) , plants don't want to be eaten. "Who cares what they want?" you say. "It's not like they can get up and run away." Exactly. Plants can't move or bite so they defend themselves with chemicals and thorns. Some chemicals they use will kill us (the wrong mushroom), some will kill us but in small doses can be medicines (foxglove). Some aren't strong enough to kill us but can make us sick, either acutely or chronically. Soybeans fall into this latter category. Chemicals in soybeans cause thyroid disorders, blood clots, inhibit trypsin (one of our digestive enzymes), contain very high levels of phytates (mineral inhibitors) and contain high levels of estrogens. Have you noticed girls entering puberty earlier than in previous generations? Men given soy products can become feminized. Babies receiving soy infant formula as their sole source of food take the equivalent of 5 birth control pills a day in estrogens. These chemicals in soy are anti-nutrients. The Asians knew this which is why they only eat fermented soy like miso. Tofu is not fermented. The fermentation process inactivates many (but not all) of the anti-nutritive elements in soy. The only use for soy for humans IMHO is as Miso taken after radiation exposure. After the nuclear explosions in Japan, those who were fed miso survived better than those who were not. Miso will last a long time in a refrigerator and you should have some with your potassium iodate as part of your nuclear first aid kit. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: Soft white wheat has less nutritive value (protein) than hard red winter wheat. Although they are both categorized as "hard grains", the hard wheat varieties store better than the soft wheats. (30+ years versus 15 to 20 years for soft white wheat.) For both of these reasons, hard red winter wheat is preferred for home food storage programs. The following is a quote from the excellent wheat article at the Walton Feed web site: "The hard wheats generally contain smaller kernels and are harder than soft wheat kernels. They contain high protein and gluten levels primarily designed for making bread flours. Depending on variety and growing conditions, hard wheats can have vastly different protein levels. For bread making, your wheat should have a minimum of 12% protein. The hard varieties of wheat can have protein levels up to 15 or 16%. Generally speaking for bread making, the higher the protein content the better. The two main types of hard wheat are the hard red---Sunday October 8 2006 Baking Whole Wheat Bread With Your Storage Wheat, by B.B.
You should plan to be dependent on stored food until your second crop comes in. Wheat is the least expensive and longest-lasting and most nutritious of the basic foods and should be the backbone of your stored foods. Figure on a pound per person per day, thus about 700 pounds per adult-size person over the two-year storage plan. This is about a loaf of bread per day, which will nicely supplement the other stored foods in your larder. You want "thrice-cleaned, Turkey-red Hard Winter Wheat", with moisture content at less than 10%. Store it in food-grade plastic buckets; treat it with dry ice as explained elsewhere in SurvivalBlog. The simplest and most familiar way to eat wheat is by making bread. What follows is not a "survival" version of how to make bread, but unless you get your family used to eating whole wheat bread—and with this recipe, they will!—the wheat which ought to be the backbone of your food storage will not be much appreciated. In a survival situation, you can prepare the bread dough described below, then eliminate the baking process in steps 5-7 by going right to the "Navajo bread" explanation at the end. And you won't need bread pans either. Also, check abebooks.com for copies of Dian Thomas "Roughing It Easy" for ideas on survival cooking. Homemade whole-wheat bread is often hard and chewy—sometimes better as a doorstop than as something to eat! Store-bought whole-wheat bread has a much better texture because commercial bakers use a secret ingredient. You can use the same ingredient and make bread that that will be far superior to store-bought and that your family will rave about. And you can make it from scratch to cooling rack in about 60 minutes! Trust me on this. Take note of the time for each step below and you will see what I mean. Over the last several years, I have baked numberless loaves (100+) using this recipe. I often give one loaf of every 4-loaf batch away because I like the reactions I get. Early in my bread-baking career, one recipient told me she ate half a loaf at one sitting! I was pleased, but not surprised. My kids have done the same. Also try the variations you'll read later in this paper; you'll find people standing at your side waiting impatiently for the next bite.
Basic Whole-Wheat Bread (makes 4 loaves) Of course it's best to use freshly ground whole wheat, but you can start out your adventure in bread-making with whole wheat flour bought at the store. Yeast from Costco comes in good-size "bricks"—see the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course for details. 4 1/2 cups very warm water 1 cup honey 1/4 cup yeast 1/2 cup oil (Canola is best) 6 cups whole wheat flour (more flour will be added later; see below) Slightly mounded 3/4 cup of gluten flour (the "secret ingredient": available in the baking/nutrition/organic section of larger groceries or from a nutrition store). Warning: you want gluten flour, not "high protein" flour 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 4 to 5 1/2 cups whole wheat flour (store-bought whole wheat flour may take less because it will be more "packed"—fresh made flour is more "fluffy" 4 greased or oiled bread pans. I use my fingers to spread the grease, or a paper towel to spread the oil, into every corner. Do this well to unsure the loaves will release from the pans. I've also used "Pam" with good results. 1. Combine the water, honey and yeast; let this mixture "work" at least 5 minutes. I have a kneading machine, so I use its bowl for this. No kneading machine? Use a large mixing bowl. 2. Then add the oil, the 6 cups of whole wheat flour, the gluten flour and the salt. Beat in your kneading machine (or electric mixer, or by sturdy wooden spoon) for 7 minutes. This will result in a pancake-like batter. 3. Continue to beat, adding 4 1/2 cups of the 5 1/2 cups of flour; checking for stickiness and adding only enough to cause the dough to clear the bowl—meaning the dough will pick up dough off the sides of the bowl (the batch will feel slightly sticky when touched). 4. Either knead with your machine or turn out onto an oiled board or counter (a tablespoon of oil spread around with your hand. Machine-knead or hand-knead for at least 10 minutes. I rub my hands with oil to keep the dough from sticking too much. For hand kneading, you can also add a little flour (just a little—you don't want tough bread!--if needed to prevent too much stickiness. At the end of ten minutes, the batch should be elastic—you'll know what that means after your first bread-making experience. It will feel "alive". At this point, you can continue with steps 5-7 or go right to the "Navajo bread" section below. 5. Mold* into four loaves and put in the four pans. Let rise in the oven with the oven temperature at 100o (just warm), for 15 to 20 minutes (but no longer or else you'll get air pockets in the bread). 6. Turn the oven up to 350o and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. There's no need to remove the pans and wait for the oven to reach 350—just turn the knob to 350. To test for doneness, turn out one loaf and tap on the bottom: a hollow sound tells you it's done. To turn out a loaf, use oven mittens to hold the pan inverted and to catch the loaf. If the loaf bottom is still a bit "squishy", return it to the pan and continue baking. Keep the oven door closed during this test or you'll lose too much heat. Don't over bake; the loaves will be browner than they look in the dark oven. 7. Turn out on wire racks to cool; rub a stick of margarine or butter over the tops to keep the crust from getting too hard. * to mold: shape the batch into a round ball and cut into quarters with a long knife. Shape each of these into a ball. Then with the heel of your hands press on the sides of a ball to shape it into length to fit your bread pans. Press into the pan and then press it down so it fills the pan end-to-end and side-to-side. There's no need to do this perfectly. Stand back and feel proud; try to wait a little before you cut yourself the first slice. You deserve it! And you are going to love the toast this bread makes! Navajo bread Flatten a fist-size ball of dough pancake thin to 1/2 skillet size; fry on both sides in hot oil. Use this as a base for a tostada. Or, flatten loaf-size ball of dough pancake thin and cut into small pieces the size of the palm of your hand and fry both sides in hot oil; serve with butter and honey. Yum! P.S. Gluten flour can be stored for as long as ground flour if you use the same techniques for storage.
In order to rotate your food storage stock efficiently, it is essential to accurately predict shelf life. This information is often skirted by vendors, but I found a very handy chart supplied by Walton Feed that really lays this out - you might be surprised at some of the results.
There are a lot of environmental factors that effect storage life, but probably the most predominant is that of temperature. Lowering the average storage temperature by as little as 10 degrees Fahrenheit has a dramatic effect on storage life. That said, for those of you that like the convenience of MREs and plan on purchasing several cases, consider storing them under refrigerated conditions. A 20 degree drop from 80 degrees Fahrenheit to 60 degrees Fahrenheit changes the storage life of MREs from 76 months to 130 months! For every 10 degree drop in temperature, the storage life of seeds is doubled. Not just garden seeds, but many folks store seeds to eat as sprouts. So, here is the deal - if you are going to buy several cases of MREs, you may as well shell out that extra $20-$40 dollars to pick up a used refrigerator a ---- course. Note, however, that if you buy corn from any source except Walton's or another major storage food vendor, be careful about the moisture content, which varies widely. Also, speaking of moisture, beware that mold is the greatest bugaboo with bulk corn. Never, ever, eat moldy corn! It can induce micotoxin poisoning that is potentially deadly!
---- navy beans and is getting ready to do some hamburger noodle soup. She told me that she had no idea how easy it is to use a pressure cooker to preserve food. In my opinion this is the way to learn, find someone to show you how! Kathy and Jeff had many questions and we answered them through the course of the two evenings. Like handling a gun you have to respect your equipment when you are home canning. However with the proper instruction you can have a safe and enjoyable time as you are putting away stores for the future. One last thing, look for canning jars at home auctions. You can reuse the j --- lots of jerky over the years, but have never tried canning meats. Canning meat makes sense for a fixed location retreat. But for "Get out of Dodge" use, jerky is preferable. (Less weight and bulk, and no risk of breaking containers.) Detailed "do it yourself" instructions (including jerky making, pemmican making, and canning options) can be found in the book "The Encyclopedia of Country Living" by Carla Emery. Get a Ninth Edition copy. If you can't find this book locally, I do sell copies via mail order. (See my Friday August 18 2006 Three Letters Re: Clarification on Calcium Hypochlorite for Water Purification
Jim, It has been almost 20 years since I had a chemistry class, so you may want to check this with a chemist. Wanderer posted the following comment:
"I stopped at the local Big Box lumber yard and they had Calcium Hypochlorite, (a.k.a. Pool Shock) it was concerning as it states 50% Calcium Hypochlorite and 50% Other Ingredients. Making it a 50% available Chlorine. In common language, … is this adequate? It does not seem to be of the 70% goal you mentioned on your earlier post."
He was referring to the EPA web site comment:
"… since the calcium hypochlorite has an available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight."
The Wanderer's comment about his purchase making 50% available chlorine is not quite right. Calcium hypochlorite, Ca(ClO)2 will 'release' chlorine and oxygen ions when mixed with water. The EPA comment actually means that pure calcium hypochlorite can release enough chlorine ions equal to 70% of the weight of the amount of the compound used. For instance, if 1 ounce of pure calcium hypochlorite is mixed with water, 0.7 ounces of chlorine ions will be released. If the mixture that Wanderer bought is 50% inert, then using one ounce will only release 0.35 ounces of chlorine ions. Also, I am not sure of the density of calcium hypochlorite, but any measurement like this should be sure to differentiate between mass and weight. If the density is close to one, then using a volume measure for 'ounce' is probably good enough. If not, then the amount used should probably be measured on reasonably accurate scale (and not a balance). Please check my work if you can. Thanks, - M.W.
Sir, I have found granular calcium hypochlorite at our local Kinetico (water softener) store. They sell a package of two 8 oz bottles distributed by a company called Better Water Ind., Inc. 209 North Tyler Street, Tyler, MN 56178, phone: 507-247-5929. [At their site] click on their "products" link and scroll down to "BWI Certified Chlorine." I notice that they have [packaging ] available from 3.5 pound jars up to 100 pound drums! The product is sold as a well sanitizer pack called "Well Safe" and comes with one 8 oz bottle of granulated chlorine (73% calcium hypochlorite) and one 8 oz bottle of chlorine pellets that are 73% calcium hypochlorinate.- Opus
Good Evening: I also went to my pool supply store to obtain calcium hypochlorite. They had Poolife brand "TurboShock." It was $14.85 for 5 pounds. Active ingredient:calcium hypochlorite 78% and other ingredients 22%. No one was aware of the substance of the other ingredient. I called the National Poison Control Hotline to find out. They also stated the ingredient was not known but, was a [inert] filler of sorts and not harmful. I'm satisfied. I could decontaminate my well and everything else [for a long time] with 20 pounds of Turboshock. - Lauralei
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Sunday August 13 2006 Letter Re: Long Term Storage Survival Food Buckets at Costco
Jim: I just came from a Costco in Coeur d'Alene Idaho. I spotted an interesting item on the end cap near the bread isle, 275 servings of individual food packs in a white plastic bucket. 20 year shelf life. Just boil in water for 20 minute. It has the same packaging that you'd expect from a vendor like Ready Made Resources. This from a food packaging company out of Orem, Utah. The price for 275 servings is $109.99. It is labeled 'Survival Food', item #104893 so you may want to inquire at your Costco.
In each bucket there are 55 individual 5 serving packs--sort of misleading when on the bucket it says 275 servings but each pack is for one day. Here are the specifications and ingredients: premixed, seasoned vitamin, mineral fortified 100% vegetarian--(except whey milk and pancakes)soy used in lieu of meat Barley Vegetable Blueberry pancakes Ala King Cacciatore Country Noodle Corn Chowder PotatoBa-Kon Rice Lentil Western Stew Whey Milk
The weight of the bucket is 25 lb., 2 oz. It looks really well put together. - Jason in Idaho
JWR Replies: The quality of the product is not in question, but Costco's marketing is. A bit of Internet research revealed that this product is currently the target of a class action lawsuit. (Scroll down to Page 5 of the suit papers for details.) The product is advertised as a "3 month food supply for one person." The problem is that if you do the math, it works out to just 455 calories per day! With 2,000 calories as a scant daily minimum per the USDA, they are overstating the period of supply period by a factor of nearly five times. (The LDS Church's informative website www.providentliving.org contains a suggested food list that provides 2,800 calories per day.) I'm not saying that it is a bad product. Just figure that you will need five times as much as Costco advertises. OBTW, because of this lawsuit, I wouldn't be surprised if the product is dropped by Costco. In case it is, here is the contact info for the food packing company: Food for Health International www.nutristorage.com Phone: 801-765-4663 (In Utah, naturlich, where the majority of the long term storage food canners in the country are located.) Perhaps folks might want to stock up.
----" All animals in the arctic regions are edible, but the livers of seals and polar bears must not be eaten because of the high levels of vitamin A. Death could result from ingesting the liver." So, I'll go with Vitamin A as the guilty culprit. Of course, I don't understand why people eat any kind of liver....so it's purely an intellectual question to me. K---Tuesday August 1 2006 Preparedness Course Errata: Vitamin B Versus Vitamin D
My apologies for not catching an error in the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course. On page 14, there were references to Vitamin B being fat soluble. Either I mis-spoke, or the transcriber misheard me. Either way, my apologies! To clarify: Vitamin B and Vitamin C are water soluble, so they cannot be over-dosed. The human body just sheds what is not needed, through urination. In contrast, Vitamins A,D, E, and K are fat soluble. The greatest risk of overdosing is with Vitamin D-3. Vitamin D over-dosing happens most often with over-anxious young mothers that mistakenly assume that if one daily dose of liquid vitamins for their toddler is good, then three or four doses is even better. Another risk is to bear hunters: Bear livers have such concentrated Vitamin D, that eating an entire bear liver can be lethal! Never eat more that a 1/2-inch cube of bear liver per week.
For those of you that already own a copy of the course, please pen in the correction. The error will be corrected in future printings.
Thursday July 27 2006 Letter Re: The Importance of Storing Salt for Preparedness
Hello, I noticed folks talking a bit about salt lately...what I didn't notice is whether or not anyone has talked about mineral needs? If folks are going to buy a bunch of salt, they might want to remember that iodized salt would be a good idea. Iodine is one of those necessary minerals, that has become deficient in our soils across the nation. Normally, we could get it through the plants we eat. However, if it's deficient in the soil were you live, you won't get enough. Yes, you can also get it from seafood. However, if your retreat is inland, you don't really have that option. A University of Michigan web page discusses some issues related to iodine deficiency. But there are other mineral needs, aside from iodine, that people should research as well. Folks need to be aware of what their bodies need, what is deficient in their area, and what they might need to supplement. On the flip side, folks should also be aware that some minerals can become toxic in ones body if you overdo it.
Here's a couple of links for anyone who might be interested in mineral deficiency. Of course, there's a ton of more information out there...but this might get anyone interested, off and running: From Health Line From "Wrong Diagnosis"
Colgate Licks Hot Springs, Idaho [JWR Adds: Been there, seen that. It is an amazing place for wildlife viewing. BTW, the nearby Jerry Johnson Hot Springs are worth the hike for a dip.] Death Valley, California Searles Lake, California Kaibab, Arizona JWR Replies: Unless you literally live next to a salt marsh, I cannot overemphasize the importance of storing salt. The Memsahib and I formerly lived in the Upper Clearwater River Valley of Idaho. In that region, deer and elk would walk many, many miles to get to natural salk licks (such as The Colgate Licks), where they would congregate in large numbers. Salt is important to store, both for preserving food and as a practical means to attract wild game. (It is noteworthy that in many locales, natural salt licks are off-limits to hunters, since hunting there is too easy and hence not considered sporting. That ought to tell you something.) I recommend that you store several times more salt than you think that you'll ever need. Salt is cheap and plentiful now, but in the event of TEOTWAWKI it will be a scarce and valuable commodity. Salt also has a virtually unlimited shelf life.
Excellent information on storing dry goods for long-term. I have just a bit of advice to all out there: use foods from you stores in your every-day life. I'm not advocating depleting your stores; rather consuming and replacing them as part of your daily life, thus rotating your stock as well. (This is recommended, however, ONLY after you have acquired your long-term goal (i.e.one year supply, two, etc.). You will benefit in at least four distinct ways from this:1.) your stores will always have a maximum useful shelf-life, as they will constantly be rotated; 2.) you will probably experience better health as you will be eating better quality, more healthful food (look at labels: there's no food in most food!); 3.) you will almost certainly save money on your weekly food budget (fresh-baked baguettes from home ground flour costs me about $.35 /loaf, and it's as good or better than anything available at ten times the cost!); 4.) lastly, but certainly not least, preparing and eating food from you stores will become part of your lifestyle. It will not require a transition to eating "that stuff" and you will have dealt with the learning curve now, while you can afford to, instead of wasting you (future) limited food supplies. Also, not to be overlooked, this f----Monday July 10 2006 Do It Yourself Bulk Food Storage: Buckets, Oxygen Absorbers, Desiccants, and CO2
From what I've heard letters and e-mails, most SurvivalBlog readers already have a food storage program, but most of them would like to move on to the next step: buying and storing foods in bulk. To save money you will probably want to buy rice, wheat, and beans in 50 pound sacks. Sacks are problematic, since what you really want is a vermin-proof, moisture proof container that is air tight and preferably evacuated of oxygen. Those are the keys to true long term shelf life, and none of them are provided by a cloth, paper, or woven plastic sack. The solution is to re-pack bulk foods in food grade plastic buckets. Here is how to do it:
Food grade five or six gallon bucket with rubber "o-ring" seals are available through a variety of Internet vendors. Be sure to specify "food grade" when you buy. Other buckets intended for products like paint are not safe for use in food storage, even if bought brand new. Although these usually have the same white plastic formulation, they are typically manufactured using a different mold release agent, which is toxic. So don't buy paint buckets! Used food grade buckets are often available for free or perhaps a dollar apiece if you ask around at local delicatessens and bakeries. Flour buckets are usually best, since buckets that were used for pickles or peppers might leave you with food that has undesired flavors!
The method that I use is as follows: Line a bucket with a large plastic bag and pour in the wheat, rice, or beans, shaking the bucket and tapping it on the floor several times to get the bag completely full. You don't want any air gaps. Fill the bag so that the bucket is filled to within one inch of the top. Then toss two Oxygen absorbing packets (available from NitroPak) into the bag. Next, place a small chunk of dry ice on top of the grain, inside the liner bag. I usually use a piece that is about as big as my thumb. As the dry ice "melts" (sublimates) it will fill the bucket with CO2, displacing the oxygen. (Insects can't breathe CO2!) Keep a watchful eye on the dry ice. Once it has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel and not any thicker than 1/8th inch, seal the bag with a wire twist tie. On top of the sealed bag, place a 2 ounce bag of silica gel desiccant. (Also available from from NitroPak.) Then immediately seal the bucket, securing the lid with firm strikes from a rubber mallet. This will seat the lid and compress the o-ring. WARNING: If you don't wait until the dry ice has nearly completely sublimated before you seal the bucket, then dangerous pressure could develop. (A "dry ice bomb.") Again, you must wait until the dry ice chunk has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel, and not any thicker than 1/8th inch. The end result: Very dry food in a sealed, oxygen-free environment, safe from mice. This method will triple or quadruple the shelf like of rice and beans, and make whole grain wheat last literally for decades. Another method that can be used in place of dry ice is a CO2 probe or "wand", attached with a hose to a compressed cylinder of CO2 . A complete description of dry ice and CO2 probe methods can be found in Alan T. Hagan's excellent Food Storage FAQ at Captain Dave's site. Once you open each bucket of storage food, you will probably want to replace the standard "pound on" lid with a screw closure "Gamma Seal" lid. These lids have an inset screw top, so that they are more convenient to access for daily use. Gamma Seal lids are available through a number of Internet vendors such as Walton Feed and NitroPak, for around six dollars each. If you want to buy 20 or more lids, you can get them directly from the manufacturer, at www.gammaseals.com.
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Friday June 23 2006 Letter Re: An American Source for Canned Bread
JWR Replies: As you'd expect, my preference is for well-prepared families to grind their own whole wheat flour (from their stored hard red winter wheat) and bake their own bread. Together with the other store bought ingredients, this is a source of nutritious whole wheat bread with a net cost of around 1 to 2 cents per ounce. For comparison, consider that typical store bought bread is 9 to 18 cents per ounce. Canned bread is 29+ cents per ounce, not counting postage, if you buy it via mail order. But of course fresh bread lasts two or three days, whereas canned bread stores for two or three years. So canned bread does have its place in preparedness planning.
Friday April 21 2006 Letter Re: Stocking Up on Reusable Plastic Plates and Bowls
Jim, Something just occurred to me as far as an overlooked essential: food plates and bowls. The glass mixes (Corelle, etc) are far better than the stoneware for cleanliness and durability, but they can still be broken. I found out recently that the cheap, media tie-in dishes that extol Disney and various other children's movies are not only unbreakable plastic, but are immune to gun cleaning solvent--I used an old one, figuring to throw it away when done. But a quick rinse with a dab of soap and it was clean--impervious to the chemical, not even the cartoon image was blistered. I then tried acetone, gasoline and an acidic household cleaner. These things are brutally tough. W----Sunday March 19 2006 From David In Israel: How Freeze Drying Works
James: I am sure the readers are interested in the way that industrial produced freeze dried foods are made. I was a kashrut masgiach (kosher supervisor) at a major freeze dry producer in the United States before I emigrated to Israel. Mashgichim are flown all over the world to places where there is no Jewish community to certify the kosherness of foods for consumption by Jews. (The laws of kashrut are much too complex to describe here). The plant I certified had two major types of chamber one that was bus-sized and another that was the size of a minivan. Trays were fed in by an electrical railroad placed on the floor, hundreds if not thousands of pounds were freeze dried at a time. The chambers start out at below freezing when the vacuum is applied and as the time passes (the program depends on the food) the temperature is raised to (again depending on the food and its temperature tolerance) up to around 150 Fahrenheit. Freeze drying is simply quickly subliming away all of the water, the same thing that happens in freezer burn. Vacuum goes a long way to assist the subliming process, at a vacuum of 20 mmHg, water will boil at 15C stay below the boiling temp until almost all of the moisture is gone. Freeze drying keeps the food both feeling and tasting much fresher by maintaining the basic cellular structure of the food just desiccating. A standard food dehydrator which I have used at home radically changes both the mouth feel and flavor not to mention making for high re hydration times, there is also the question of how much nutrient is lost long term due to oxygen exposure. Vacuum pumps are available used for reasonable prices a coop might be able to purchase or build and run a small chamber. If anyone is feeling creative and builds their own freeze dry chamber, please write in with your results.
Tuesday March 14 2006 Letter Re: Home Dehydrating and Home Vacuum Packing
Sir: As a "very long time" survivalist, I read everything I can get. I also enjoy your website as it is the most informative one out there! Now for my problem: I was diagnosed with what is called Celiac Sprue. This is a horrible allergy to anything that contains Gluten, such as wheat, barley, and rye. What this means is that if I were to eat anything that contained Gluten I will come down with extremely bad cramps, diarrhea, nausea, and fever. Basically, It feels like I have the flu but ten times worse. As you can see this makes buying large bulk items for long term storage difficult and costly. My question to all is this: Can I get a dehydrator and an automatic sealer and vacuum to make my own MREs? I am talking about things like Thai noodles (various flavors, all Gluten free), hydrate and cook them and then turn around and use a dehydrator to make them dehydrated, or, just seal them in a pouch minus the air and use them as long term pre-packaged/MRE type food? Does anybody have any experience in doing just this? Thanks, - Thunderchief
JWR Replies: Home dehydrators are very useful! Over the years, we have used ours for everything from drying venison jerky and apples, to "reanimating" silica gel rust preventative packets. Dehydrators easy to find used for reasonable prices, via a newspaper "want" ad, or a localized web service like Craig's List. Dehydrators are a bit bulky to buy via mail order, so try to find a local source first.) If purchased new, they can be quite expensive. The one that we use at the Rawles Ranch is an Excalibur brand, with a variable temperature control. They are very sturdy and typically have lots of trays, so they can hold a lot. Ours is circa 1980, and still going strong, w --- Sunday March 12 2006 Letter Re: Seeking Advice on 27 Year Old Storage Food
Jim, I apologize if you've already covered this in previous archives - I searched several, but not all, of your blog archives. I did see your comment, "Wheat stores for 20+ years..." I have a LOT of wheat purchased in 1979 after reading Howard Ruff's "How to Prosper During the Coming Bad Years." I have other items - Navy and other types of beans. It is by Neo-Life, "NEST" storage, "Nitro-Guard" protection - it was stored in #10 cans purged with with nitrogen. So it is all 25+ years old. I have been storing this stuff in my basement, which is cool and mostly dry, on 2x4's up off the floor. I keep the humidity below 40% with a de-humidifier. My question is, have these items lost enough of their nutrition value to where it would be a waste of time t --- JWR Replies: Some items like salt will store for centuries as long as they are not contaminated by the rust or decay of their containers. If stored dry, hard red winter wheat still retains 98% of it nutritive value after 20 years. Ditto for sugar or honey. Most dehydrated foods, (such as rice, beans, TVP, and the ubiquitous Neo-Life Stroganoff) will have lost too much nutritive value to be useful after 27 years, even if they were nitrogen packed. They might still be palatable, but unless you are dieting, what is the use of eating them if they have lost 90% of their nutritive value? My advice: If in doubt, throw it out. Ideally, you should continuously rotate your storage food to avoid such waste. If nothing else, mark the cans/cases of your subsequent batches of storage food, so that you can religiously use the oldest lots first.
One tidbit of trivia for you: Some wheat that was found in an Egyptian pharaoh's tomb. A small fraction of it still sprouted after 2,600 years. If you have any canned gardening seeds, try them out. The sprouting yields will be low, but there could be some marginal utility there. Just don't expend too much effort tilling and tending those those rows in your garden! BTW, the same logic applies to canned sprouting seeds.
----Saturday March 11 2006 Letter Re: Question on Dried Foods Versus Dehydrated Storage Foods
Jim, Is there any difference between dried food and dehydrated food, and if there is, what is the difference? - G.P.
JWR Replies: I'm glad that you asked that, because it is often a point of confusion. Although semantically they mean the same thing, the difference is that "dehydrated" storage foods typically are dried to a greater extent than typical dried foods--such as the raisins and other dried fruits that are sold at your local grocery store. However, due to their lower moisture content and because they are usually sold in sealed, nitrogen-packed, cans makes them store for several years instead of just a few months. Also, don't forget that "dehydrated" is far different than freeze drying, which can result in even longer storage life, particularly if canned.
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Monday March 6 2006 Letter from Michael Z. Williamson Re: Body Armor, Ancient MREs, and Federally Exempt Handguns
Tuesday January 31 2006 Letter Re: Storing Retort Packaged Ultra High Temperature Pasteurized Milk
Howdy Jim, For those with sufficient storage space, an item worth considering is the UHT (Ultra High Temperature) pasteurized milk products.
In one-quart containers at around $1.40, they are available in whole milk and the 2% variety. The manufacturers give a shelf life of 6 to 10 months and the product requires no refrigeration until opened.
UHT dairy products have been on the shelves in Europe for more than 20 years. They were previously unavailable to the U.S. consumer because the government felt their availability would "disrupt the milk support program." Sure beats powdered milk! - Dutch in Wyoming
JWR Replies: For a short term supply (up to six months), UHT Retort -packaged milk makes a lot of sense. For longer term, you should store nitrogen-packed canned powdered nonfat milk from a competent and reliable vendor such as Ready Made Resources or Walton Feed. I have found that the nonfat variety stores the best because it is the butterfat in whole milk that goes rancid, significantly shortening the shelf life. (BTW, the powdered milk sold at grocery stores that comes in foil-lined boxes goes rancid far too quickly--at times it is borderline rancid even when bought in a brand new package!) The Memsahib has been drinking retort packaged rice milk for about five years now. Rice and soy "milks" store even longer than cow milk. Like any other storage food, be sure to store retort package "bricks" in the coolest (but not ever below freezing) part of your house, and away from vermin. (It is amazing what rats will chew on.) Never stack individual retort bricks horizontally more than five bricks high, or vertically more than seven bricks high, or in cardboard cases (of vertical bricks) more than five cases high.
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8-06axx4.txt - - - - v8-7-06 4pm dew-collecton\dehumidifiers, z's july 25,26th 2006 downloads. +see dew5-06 study. keep dhu7-06.txt as is. -make a dew collector using many collected principles. z1 get drip'n
this file is entirely marked z1 to z372 for any use. this dhu8-06.txt is open to changes. this is file-one of a two-file guide. split for small computers.
any part can be pasted into internet search google.com and found again. or dhu7-06 study can recovered by search-words: dehumidifier principle, + vortex, water survival condense, +? dew collect project air build, dewpond project,
every war in the near future (after this one, obviously) will be over drinkable water,instead of being over oil. -Pericles, Mar 29 2003 its the political oil of the future.
jumps: jump to: links, 2content, 4main, 5verse read more than words. use it.
- more detailed list of all z's: z3 z3 nfo-list of z's (you are reading it) z4 word-bank z15-35: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics, best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel ( 3brief htms are replaced with z's in dhu8, see dhu7 )
z328-348: z328 solaroof concept, overheat, process, soap solution, circulating, z335 hot-sky, z336 more thermass has no payback!, z337 floodeded rock bed, z338 biomimicry, z339 swg contradictions, z340 solarooof tech nfo: bubble description, gallery, how liquid thermomass system (lts) bubs work, z342 scienceproject.com selected, z344 list of subpump stuff, z345 groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof bubl-tec generators shading cooling, dynamic control,
z349-50 eco sphere project, bio dome, z351 links to projects using sola dome, z352 amish, z353-354 dewpond + airwell?, z355- sciperio cancer studies,
! z357-371: z357 sciperio.com + desal method, z358 liquid disciccants, z359 advanced ro, z360 advantages over solid disciccants, z361 hydroscopic salts, z362 ! primary elements stages of, z363 key advantages, z364 genetic changes to make agriculture plants salt tolerant, z366 water:crisis, recovery %, z367 solar waterhouse = 100%, z368 surface ro 2stage, z369 the clark pump !, z370 advanced ro membranes?, z371 overview of desal efforts, z372 not dew related but good reason too: gulags in america, oraclesofgod.org, africa xanga.com, anti-un dvds, end of dhu7-06.txt\4main
-end
mass-destruction: ww1 + ww2 = world war 3 , is was is.
- - my word-bank: z4 projects Definitions concept system humidity dehumidify condense collect refridgerant desiccant, dessicant ,Atmospheric water generator 1! (awg) vs. bubble-tech sola-roof, WaterMaker (WM), Air to Water Harvest (A2WH) or Water Air Extraction Device (WAED),airwells 1! dewponds, survival water camping emergency, radiator of vehicles, cool and hot sources, air-flow -convection?, coalesce, catagories:Guide to Wilderness Survival 1!, evaporation still, Giardia- lamblia Non-industrial water filtration watermaker dehumidifier mineral water distilled water, World Day for Water, safe water,dehydration, water quality, drought. Key Words: capillary water condensation conduction convection desalinization evaporation radiation solar-still thermal energy, repulsine repulsator vortex implosion suck siphon capillary heat-exchanger 1! Bubble-Tech sola-roof liquid-cooling, Q+A, thermal-gain living-structures-architecture, Oil From Algae, NoNameYet, Liquid Thermal Mass System, 1! liquid-desiccant and advanced-energy-recovery-RO ,The free energy of hydration: Hygroscopic salts like LiCl, make excellent liquid desiccants. -HVAC. advanced reverse osmosis (RO),The Clark Pump, desalinate, refrigeration. -methane-powered?, H202-production -see 1-14.htm z55 synonyms, z93:humidifier, z250:A coolamon, dehydrate
the five 1! in the above word-bank spot 5 major areas of dew-collection.
Biosystems and Biomimicry technology will run cool - while all our previous engineering concepts are dominated by high temperature and pressure. That is machine technology - fire, steam, the heat of a nucear reation - none of those concepts have a place in a biomimicry technology. Living systems operate at ambient temperature and humidity. -sola roof - - - 4main - - best text, my notes , 1! 2! 3! marks, in verses z1 z2 etc.
z36 zip-lists of clay-tube goo1-4 spin-mud, words:ceramics extruder xanga + ? exair.com faq4 Ranque Vortex Tube, Hilsch Tube, Hilsch, Maxwell's Demon Viktor Schauberger's Inventions, get germano links list of goo and htm of potters to make vortex-tubes for you. z37 words: hydrogen-peroxide production home buy here,catalyst to decompose hydrogen peroxide to hot steam and oxygen. -h2o2.com properties:physical,chemical + where my notes: by justin_lin@caryacademy.pvt.k12.nc.us z40 Melting Point: -20C / 28.4'F,Boiling Point: 158'C /316.4'F, Colorless liquid and slightly pungent and irritating odor. heat decomposes it to water and oxygen (2H2O2) ==> 2H2O + O2.or in contact with salts(crystals?)2! as iron, copper, manganese, nickel, or chromium. high concentrations contactig these metals or? can be explosive(oxydation). so de-oxy reactions are 'implosive' and give life? contact with organic compounds will form certain hydro\peroxides which start polymerization reactions 1! (plastics!).oxidizes stuff in most reactions(see link-4). -spider-webs? - can be found in our tissues or in our cells as a product of cellular metabolism(7. It can also be found in our saliva, which causes the foaming in our mouths when in contact with toothpaste - obtained in mass quantities by the eletrolysis of aqueous solutions of sulfuric acids, of potassium bisulfate, or of ammonium bisulfate(6. z41 - or by I.G. Farbenindustrie method, using the raw hydrogen and oxygen. 2-ethylanthraquinol and oxidized it into 2-ethylanthraquinone though a solution of quinol in an organic solvent. The h2o2 is extracted and the quinone is put back into the process by hydrogen to continue h2o2 production. - end -A. ROS BARCEL April 8, 1998 http://www.oxfordjournals.org/ z42 Physiology H2O2 by the lignifying xylem of several vascular plants Botany paused -here- to go to dehumidifier related nfo study.
z43 Hydrogen peroxide production by blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) under photoautotrophic conditions is of great interest as a model system for the bioconversion of solar energy. Our experimental system was based on the photosynthetic reduction of...
iNTRODUCTION TO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, frequently asked questions, get all qa? 8. What is sodium percarbonate? z49 Sodium percarbonate (or sodium carbonate) peroxyhydrate is a non-hazardous granular product developed as an alternative to perborate bleaches in household detergents. When dissolved into water, its releases H2O2 and soda ash (sodium carbonate). 2Na2CO3 . 3H2O2 ---> 2Na2CO3 + 3H2O2 a- The pH of the resulting solution is typically alkaline, which activates the H2O2 for bleaching. The dry powder contains about 30% w/w H2O2 and finds specialty use as a wood brightener and general cleaning aid. Check with a local supplier to industrial laundries for sourcing. 10. Can H2O2 be used for disinfecting my pool or spa? z50 a- By itself, H2O2 is a rather poor microbiocide compared to chlorine, bromine, ozone, and other commonly used disinfectants. Consequently, it is not approved by regulatory agencies as a stand-alone treatment in these applications. However, there are a number of technologies which use H2O2 as part of the treatment program. These include: UV disinfection + H2O2; ozone + H2O2; silver salts + H2O2; and quaternary ammonium salts + H2O2. The first three of these are in various stages of commercialization (depending on the state), while the latter is available under the Baquacil label. You are advised to contact the Pool + Spa Association to learn the status of these treatments in your area.US Peroxide is unable to offer assistance for pool and spa applications of H2O2. 18. What work has been done on using H2O2 in place of chlorine as a disinfectant for water? z51 a- Compared to chlorine (or ozone), chlorine dioxide, or uv-light, H2O2 is a rather poor disinfectant and is not approved as a stand-alone treatment for microbial control in water systems. Consequently, it is unlikely that any stand-alone process will be available in the foreseeable future. On the other hand, H2O2 can be used to improve the performance of certain other disinfection methods (e.g., ozonation and UV-photolysis. For non-potable water treatment (e.g., cooling water circuits, there is active development and commercialization of both H2O2-derived disinfectants (e.g., peracetic acid and combination treatments with biguanide-type quaternary ammonium compounds. We will be adding more information about this area to our website in the near future -- stay tuned. Up to Topic Index Up to Question Index 19. Can H2O2 remove ammonia from wastewater? z52 a- Generally no. The ammonium ion is extremely resistant to any common oxidant except active halogens (chlorine, bromine, iodine). While free radical oxidation of undissociated NH3 is possible (using catalytic H2O2), the high pH required is such that the primary removal mechanism is volatilization. Methods typically used for ammonia removal include: biological nitrification/denitrification, air stripping (at high pH, adsorption onto selective ion exchange resins or clinolite (a natural mineral), or super-chlorination. 22. Is H2O2 really a 'natural' substance? z53 a- Yes. H2O2 is produced by both animal and plant cells -- being associated with the mitochondrial respiratory chain, as well as various hydroxylation and oxygenation reactions. For example, the popular free-radical dietary supplement, superoxide dismutase (SOD), serves to convert the toxic superoxide radical (O2-) into H2O2, as do the flavin-linked oxidases. A number of other enzymes such as the heme-containing catalase (located in mitochondrial peroxisomes) then decompose the H2O2 to oxygen in order to protect the cells from subsequent damage. You can see these enzymes in action for yourself when you apply H2O2 topically to a cut or wound and witness the intense foaming. Also, the whitening of skin when exposed to more concentrated H2O2 is due to trapped oxygen beneath the epidermis caused as a result of H2O2 permeating through the skin and being decomposed by epidural enzymes. Saliva is another source for H2O2-decomposing enzymes -- hence the foaming when brushing with H2O2-containing tooth pastes. H2O2 is also an active intermediate in the bioluminescence reaction involving the luciferase enzyme (from fireflies). We have only recently begun to explore how these enzymatic reactions utilizing H2O2 may be harnessed for environmental use. Two examples of active research (and field testing) involve the peroxidase-H2O2 reaction (from the white rot fungus) to degrade toxic organic compounds and to delignify / bleach wood pulp. get goo.htm for ref and 287.gif Definition: The commercial-scale production, by electrolytic means, of hydrogen peroxide. (Synonyms: albone manufacture, albone manufacturing, alkaline sodium peroxide manufacture, alkaline sodium peroxide manufacturing, alkaline sodium peroxide preparation, electrolytic albone production, electrolytic H2O2 production, electrolytic hydrogen peroxide manufacture, electrolytic hydrogen peroxide manufacturing, electrolytic inhibine production, electrolytic perhydrol production, electrolytic peroxan production, inhibine manufacture, inhibine manufacturing, perhydrol manufacture, perhydrol manufacturing, peroxan manufacture, peroxan manufacturing Definition: The production of hydrogen peroxide. related terms. (Synonyms: H2O2 manufacture, H2O2 manufacturing, H2O2 preparation, H2O2 production, H2O2 synthesis, hydrogen peroxide manufacture, hydrogen peroxide manufacturing, hydrogen peroxide preparation, hydrogen peroxide synthesis z56 Hydrogen Peroxide Production and Oxidation of Ferrous Iron by Lactobacillus delbrueckii ssp. bulgaricus Key Words: iron, hydrogen peroxide, Lactobacillus delbrueckii ssp. bulgaricus
icemak.htm + 2! -repairclinic.com ph.800-269-2609 icemaker info z59 links: many appliance brands ge, amana, When the wire goes all the way back down, the ice maker refills with water and repeats the process. -get?
z60 Comparison of Newly Isolated Strains of Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis for Hydrogen Peroxide Production at 5'C z61 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE PRODUCTION PRODUCTS: 'Panacea' Gasketing PP-363 - Special Compound of Plasticized Vinyl for use in Hydrogen Peroxide 'Panacea' PT-70-M - 'Easy to Seal' PTFE Protected EPDM Gaskets z62 Growing Mushrooms -Cultivation with Hydrogen Peroxide best pics and most helpful pics: z63 483-487.gif -pnt! post! cd-rw it. - - analytical methods for peroxide, z64 h2o2kits.htm: products for measuring H2O2 residuals in the field. lowlevelcobalt.htm z65 New applications for H2O2 within the food processing and drinking water industries require the accurate measurement of residual H2O2
h2o2.com Hydrogen Peroxide Environmental and Industrial Applications overview.htm ! good INTRODUCTION TO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, uses, processes z66 1p warning handling label H-PEROXIDE, VALSTERANE 35% and 50% SPECIFICATIONS z67 thermodynamics.htm - detailed 2!? z68 H2O2 Thermodynamic Properties Determination of thermodynamic properties for H2O2 are complicated by: 1 Uncertainties due to H2O2 decomposition 2 Irreversibility of H2O2 formation and decomposition - - search words: dehumidifier principle vortex z69 my notes: same principle as a refrigerator, freezer, or air-conditioner. z70 Residential dehumidifiers have a cooling system made up of these primary components: -The compressor is the quiet motor (engine) of the cooling system. It's the black, football-size component at the bottom of your dehumidifier. The compressor runs as long as the dehumidifier humidistat (the humidity-sensor )calls for a reduction in the humidity. -The condenser is a series of finned tubes, similar to a radiator. It's usually near the circulating fan. -The evaporator is located near the back of the dehumidifier, right above the water-collection container. It also resembles a radiator or a coiled-up set of tubes. When the dehumidifier's humidistat senses increased humidity, it cycles on, which starts the compressor and circulating fan. -circulating-fan circulates the air over the evaporator and condenser coils.
Principle: draws common air over cold then warm 'coils'. 1!, z71 use vortex-tube at exair.com? to make cold and hot spots, or use compressor(cold) and condenser(warm) motors. other methods of cold + hot? motor method: When the unit runs, the circulating fan and compressor also run. The fan continually draws room air over the evaporator coils, which are cold, and then over the condenser coils, which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are cold, moisture in the room collects on them--just as the outside of a glass of icy liquid 'sweats' on a warm, humid day. When moisture on the coils increases, it drips off the coils into collection container.
air then flows over the warm condenser coils and out to the room. This process removes water from the air and, because of heat from the fan motor and compressor motor, the exiting air is somewhat warmer, as well as dryer. - - z72 -All About Dehumidifiers: 1p 2! Damp air is passed over cold metal coils, and the water in the air condenses rapidly on to the metal. The water then drains away into a tank. adjustable humidistat?, frost stops action?, ten and 25 litres pr day, in use keep the doors and windows closed, ventilating the room for short periods of time. In summer homes locked up all day prevents mildew forming. In winter homes that are too damp.
z73 -hbc desiccant dehumidifier\adsorption-type The adsorption rotor with its large surface of silica gel my notes: principle: variations - types with one air fan only, types with heat recovery from the rotor, types with air cooled condenser. Small models regenerate electrically, whereas you may choose steam or gas too, components: Adsorption rotor, drive motor, heating elements, air fans, air filters and electric components, -all built into a cabinet. only connections to power supply and necessary air ducts are needed. principle: adsorption-rotor is large surface of silica-gel. able to absorbing humidity from the air passing through it. The process-air is lead through the process air-filter, then trough the drying-section of the rotor where the air will be dried and will leave the dehumidifier as dry air. The water from the process air has now been absorbed in the rotor.
next The rotor slowly turns and the water absorbed in the rotor will be removed by the regeneration-air which is carried through the regeneration-air-filter, and-after the heatup through the regeneration section of the rotor. and2 leaves the dehumidifier as wet air.? z74 The two airflows passes trough the slow turning rotor simultaneously. In this way a continuous and automatic process is obtained. The rotor is constructed for the varying water adsorption/regeneration and will be able to withstand this interaction for many years without loosing capacity. 1! The rotor is made of silica gel on a supportive material of fibre glass. - - Marine Dehumidifier Dryers, Industrial Models DHD 8000 + 18000 dhd series marine, advanced heat pipe technology, the DHD Series uses only about half the electrical power. z75 seaside corrosion-Oxidization of newly blasted steel surfaces occurs after sand blasting when the ambient relative humidity is high (>80%RH). common practice is to blow very dry air on the surface between the sand blasting and protective-coating stages. DHD Series provides hot drying cycle to cure coatings even quicker. Principle of the Heat Pipe Dehumidifier Dryer: All? dehumidifiers based on refrigeration principle use a compressor to cool the air in order to extract moisture.1!? The cold air then must be heated back up to reduce its relative humidity. The drier the air, the better it helps the unprotected surfaces from corrosion. The hotter and drier the air, the shorter the time for fresh paint or clay? to cure. - or crystalize?
z76 How is the Heat Pipe Applied in the Dehumidifier Dryer Machine? First, one section of the heat pipes passively precools the entering air to reduce the load on the refrigeration system. Then by using the energy absorbed from the first heat pipe section, the second section releases this energy back into the supply air in form of heat to lower air relative humidity. Result: About half the energy is saved! -see pics or re-get. see: list of consumption and output rates by the two models. - - -best pic s-how 1! All DST dehumidifiers use the Seibu Giken silicagel rotor. 124 Kallang Place , Singapore 339191 Fax: 65-62346389 email: info@way-technovation.com z77 In the Seibu Giken rotor the silicagel is chemically bonded to the structure, which means that there is no desiccant carry-over to the dry air. It also means an excellent lifetime. After 10 years of operation the Seibu Giken rotor dehumidifies with more than 90% of its original capacity! + washable rotor if contaminated by harsh conditions. no dust is carried over to the dry air in a Seibu Giken rotor. Tests placed in sewage stations have also shown that the rotor is bacteriostatic.
The adsorption rotor: alternate layers of flat and corrugated sheets, impregnated with an active component called desiccant. this form a vast number of axial air channels running parallel through the structure. As the air passes through the channels it is dried. most important part is the rotor z78 The desiccant material: in 1950's chloride salt was used as the desiccant. Lithium chloride absorbs the moisture through a chemical reaction. The disadvantage of a 1! salt-impregnated rotor is that it can't withstand high humidity. Saturated air will cause the salt to partially leave the rotor and thereby decrease the capacity and cause corrosion of the dehumidifier. but silica gel types adsorbs the moisture, the water molecules adhere to the surface of the silica gel. advantage is that it can withstand saturated air, years if chemically bonded to the rotor. z79 2 Will there be dust from the rotor? - Both lithium chloride and silica gel rotors containing loose desiccant will cause some dust to leave the rotor with the dry air. Apart from possible damage of dried materials the capacity of the rotor will deteriorate. Only rotors with chemically bonded silica gel will have no desiccant carry-over to the dry air. 3 Washability: If the rotor is contaminated by accident or used in applications with contaminated air, for example oil mist, it is important that the rotor is washable, and that you can wash it yourself!
4 Bacterial growth: Tests on a silica gel rotor used in a water sewage plant shows no bacteria formation on the rotor. This is thanks to the high temperature (above 120'C) when regenerating the rotor and to the low relative humidity in the dry air. varieties of the basic process: z80 CONSORB: the basic sorption dehumidifying process. The process-air (light green in picture) is pushed through the sorption rotor. humidity in the air is transferred to the rotor material, and the dry air(yellow) exits the dehumidifier. As the rotor rotates the moist rotor material will enter the regeneration section where hot air(dark green) will dry the rotor. The now humid air(blue) is sucked out to the outside. Consorb-principle is normally used with low regeneration temperatures or when drying very humid air. z81 RECUSORB: a continuous dehumidifier with internal energy recovery, able to reach very low dew points. During regeneration, sensible heat is adsorbed by the rotor material. This heat is xfrd to a purge sector where the incoming regeneration air is preheated and its moisture content reduced. While less heat is now required to reach the final regeneration temperature, the air will also be at a much lower relative humidity. so, the dry air outlet is both cooler and drier than that achieved by other desiccant systems. z82 RECUSORB DR has one fan for both dry air and wet air. This gives an easier installation for over-pressurising the dehumidified room. The Recusorb DR-principle is used in our portable units. z83 FRIGOSORB is suitable for applications where it is difficult to duct out the wet air from the dehumidified area. The unit includes a heat pump that first heats the incoming air (dark green) which dries the rotor. The humid air (blue) is cooled and water is condensed. In order to further dry the air it then passes through the rotor which adsorbs most of the remaining humidity. Thanks to the heat pump the Frigosorb is very energy-efficient. z84 ECONOSORB The principle is similar to the Frigosorb-principle, but the wet air (blue) does not pass through the evaporator. The process air (dark green) to the left passes through the evaporators and is both partially dried as well as pre-cooled. Thanks to the built in cooling the dry air (yellow) has the same or lower temperature as the process inlet air. z85 Aquasorb condenses out the moist and no wet air exhaust is needed. Aquasorb is easy to install and is constructed in stainless steel. Both the dry air from the rotor and the warm air from the air-cooled condenser are gathered in one large amount of dry air. Thanks to the evaporating energy, more energy is put out in the dry air than the unit consume in electric energy. Aquasorb can be delivered with a practical trolley. - about: DST is a Product line of Way Technovation Product Information: R-Series ( Large DH) ,DR/DC-Series ( Mid-small DH ) - - z86 Seibu Giken's SSCR Metal Silicate Rotor is manufactured from alternate layers of flat and corrugated sheets of metal silicate, chemically bonded into a tissue of inorganic fibre. It is made to form a vast number if axial air channels running parallel thro' the structure. The large surface combined with the special micro structure of the metal silicate material, ensure maximum contact area and transferability between the air and the rotor to give an extremely high capacity for water vapour adsorption. z87 Dehumidifiers are using rotors from 150 mm diameter to 3,500 mm with dehumidifying capacities from 0,5 kilograms to 600 kilograms per hour. Dry air flows are available from 50 CMH to 80,000 CMH. As well as the standard range of dehumidifiers, we manufacture custom made units specially designed to achieve maximum efficiency based on customers ruuuirement. pic-Large Dessicant Wheel Cassettes are being made Product Info: DST R-Series ( Large DH) ,DST DR/DC-Series ( Mid-small DH) MASTER INFORMATION : 2! -links to the models and nfo you want - - other: air water mumbai india, BlueGold CD -wiki dic definition of dehumidify + links answers.com my notes: dehumidify: To remove atmospheric moisture from. try:refridgerated z88 usually work by drawing moist air over a refrigerated metal coil with a fan. Since the saturated vapor pressure of water decreases with decreasing temperature (i.e. cold air can hold less water vapor, the water in the air condenses, and drips into a collecting bucket. The air is then reheated by the warmer side of the refrigeration coil. why reheated? z89 drip out to a drain? sensors detect when bucket is full. Air conditioners 1! act as dehumidifiers when they chill the air and thus need to handle the accumulated water as well. New window-units use condensing coil and fan to evaporate the accumulated water into outdoor air, older units simply drip outside. Central air conditioning units need to be connected to a drain. other type: z90 A desiccant-dehumidifier uses a desiccant material to produce a dehumidification effect. Desiccant materials (clay?) desire water vapor. Typically their moisture content relates to humidity of the surrounding air. Exposed to low relative humidities desiccant materials come to equilibrium at low moisture contents and exposure to high relative humidities results in equilibrium at high moisture contents. The process involves exposing the desiccant material to a high relative humidity air stream, allowing it to attract and retain some of the water vapor and then exposing the same desiccants to a lower relative humidity air stream which has the affect of drawing the retained moisture from the desiccant. z91 1! The first air stream is the air that is being dehumidified while the second air stream is used only to regenerate the desiccant material so that it is ready to begin another cycle. Note that the first air streams water vapor content is reduced while the second air stream's water vapor content is increased. Typically the low relative humidity air stream is air taken from any available source and heated to reduce its relative humidity. Hence desiccant dehumidifiers consume 1! heat energy to dehumidify. z92 a desiccant dehumidifier is four parts. 1! part that holds the desiccant. -of which there are several types, 2 fan to move the air to be dehumidified (process air) through the desiccant holder, 3 fan? to move the low humidity air for drying the desiccant through the desiccant holder, 4 heater to heat the air that will be used to dry the desiccant (regeneration air). z93 See also: Atmospheric water generator(awg), a machine that makes pure drinking water from air. Humidifier, an appliance that increases the humidity of air. z94 Relative effectiveness: Refrigerant dehumidifiers are more efficient when the air is quite humid (over about 45% relative humidity), higher if the air is cold. Sometimes, they are used in tandem, such as when the air is very humid, and needs to be made very dry.(1) z95 Drinking the water: The water from any dehumidifier is technically distilled water. since surfaces are not kept to food-grade cleanliness, the water is not considered safe to drink. In fact, as the water may sit for a while in the collection bucket, the water may be quite stale.
You can get dehumidifiers that take the waste water from the process and put it though enough filtration to be able to present it as drinking water, Such a machine is called an Atmospheric water generator. (awg) External links 1! wikipedia.org? z96 vapaire.com http://doityourself.com/dehumidify, homerepair.about.com/od/dehumidifier http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_14_3.asp, cooloff.org/sub_dehum.html z97 india.htm: 'The WaterMaker -tm: extracts pure water from the atmosphere and processes the water to a clear, drinkable condition.' + cell solar-power? marine.htm: Marine Dehumidifier Dryers, heat-pipe principle -is 1-6.htm z98 principle.htm: -gallery? -get more of repeats or continues 1-4.htm The rotor is made of silica gel on a supportive material of fibre glass. z99 rephome.htm: -repairclinic.com home-page parts helps links to Info On: Air Conditioner,Dehumidifier,Dishwasher,Dryer,Freezer,Garbage Disposer,Hot Water Dispenser,Humidifier,Ice Maker,Microwave,Range Vent Hood,Range/ Stove/Oven,Refrigerator,Trash Compactor,Washing Machine,Water Filter z100 sciperio.htm: -.com home-page christian? links to Laser Photonics, Digital Printing,Water Technology, Biotechnology, Airships, Antenna Research z101 wiki.htm -wikipedia answers.com def links how alt rel, for: Atmospheric water generator (AWG), WaterMaker (WM), Air to Water Harvest (A2WH) or Water Air Extraction Device (WAED) is a machine that produces pure drinking water from the humidity of the air around. An AWG operates in a manner very similar to that of a refrigerative dehumidifer: air is passed through a cooled coil, causing water to condense. The amount of water depends on the humidity, the volume of air passing through the coils, and the size of the machine. 120/500/250 litres per day -see pics! 2! z102 An AWG uses refrigeration techniques optimized to condense water from air. Blower driven air is drawn into the system through an electrostatic filter. In the machine's exterior housing, a compressor circulates refrigerant through a coil array located in the path of the air providing a temperature differential between the air and coil surface, resulting in condensation. z103 The condensation is funneled into a holding tank. A level switch in the holding tank controls the water making cycle. Water is pump circulated in an ozone generating UV light chamber to kill bacteria and then through high and low density charcoal filters to remove solids and oxygenates. It is finally collected back in the holding tank. The water filtration cycle is both flow and time controlled. Water is dispensed by tap valve diversion. oxygen kills germs to, -bubble the water or shake. store in terra-cotta egg-shapes and or use vortex-motion to preserve energize or funnel-siphon contaminates to center and expel out.
Considerations z104 AWGs with 120/500/250 litres per day capacity, Needs no water source. Generates 20 litres to unlimited quantity in 24 hours. Is designed for maximum cost efficiency. Contains no harmful minerals or chemicals. Can be powered by solar energy. The cost effectiveness of an atmospheric water generator depends on the capacity of the machine as well as on humidity and temperature conditions. z105 models can operate on electrical power, solar power or with oil fired generators. Low humidity conditions are a challenge. The system will not produce water or may produce very less water during the day in the desert or in very hot climates due to less humidity. will produce water at night due to dew point factor. The machine will trip off when humidity goes below 35RH. z106 Water stays fresh due to continuous filtration process governed by a timer. A water generator can meet standards of the US Environmental Protection Agency EPA, WHO and Bureau of Indian Standards norms. z107 care periodic cleaning of the air filters and water storage tank. and the carbon filter changed every six months and UV filter once a year or so. If done the unit will operate well for approximately 10-12 years. Alternative methods: The below is not AWGs but alternative methods of water making:
z108 company using the dessicant lithium chloride to pull water from the air , afterward water must be boiled off and distilled). Sciperio.com z109 Another companys machine extracts water from car exhausts. problems: water quality, but non conventional. check out: Lexcarb.com? z110 See word:humidity, for more about the water in air, dehumidifier: for the same principle applied to making air dryer. + words:dehydrate, hot, cold
related links: z113 atmospheric water generator is mentioned in these Answer.com?Pages: Non-industrial water filtration watermaker dehumidifier mineral water distilled water, World Day for Water, safe water,dehydration water quality, drought , More> most helpful pics: op_+.gif -reget desi+.jpg thdehumi.jpg - - z114 search words: hydrogen-peroxide production project z115 I know of the reaction K2SO4 + H20 gives K2SO3 + H202. But how is this implemented in practice? h2o2 from\for fuelcell, very good working z117 ISSUE 17 -KEYWORDS: HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, FUEL CELLS, ELECTROCHEMICAL SYNTHESIS, ONE-STAGE PROCESS, MEMBRANE ASSEMBLY MODULES, JOHNSON MATTHEY the role of reactvve oxygen species in mammalian longevity z118 Photochemical Production of Radical Oxidants + Hydroperoxides from z119 organic matter and nitrate in sea salt aerosols z120 DEPARTMENT OF IMMUNOLOGY, faces and achievments z121 lifespan by protecting against free radicals z122 england colledge links, plants links Centre for Research z123 The hydrogen peroxide production process project. z124 cpd training courses with list of objectives for each z125 formula-gifs and process? z126 new role:one-stage h2o2 production z127 cpd short-courses in water-science.
- - words: homemade hydrogen-peroxide ! z129 alterntte h2o2 uses remedies + more details z130 ! we sale h2o2-stills, fair nfo, good pics, a fake? my notes are clues: Distillation, made entirely of borosilicate glass (PYREX) and Teflon,don't have any moving parts to wear out, two 20 liter stills produce more than one 50 liter still. glass blower man, produce your own 90-98% hydrogen peroxide, vacuum transfer your peroxide, an ionic purification process to remove the stabilizers, metals and minerals,That is $0.59 / lb USD for 90% h2o2!! vs 22$ store-bought, The price of the 20 liters flask distillation machine with the deionizing process included is $15,800 USD. plus shipping to any part of the world.
z131 BadBreathgone.com alternate view of h2o2, z132 h2o2 links to rocketry - - z133 myspace.com site for anti-gov movie: a scanner darkly - - z134 words: water survival condense ! z135 brief but sharp -HikingwithMike, PO Box 68 Wilderness Survival Tips - Backpacking Tips my notes: prefix: FIRE STARTIN,EMERGENCY KIT,GET FOUND,WATER STILL,STAYING ALIVe,BUILDING A QUINZE OR SNOW CAVE
kit: a still could save your life! a large plastic trash bag and 3' long drinking tube, emergency candles - great as fire start aid; Waterproof matches; flint (scrape knife blade against it to create sparks); Butane lighter as backup; Signal Mirror; Good pocket knife (Swiss Army style); Emergency solar blanket; Emergency tent (optional) (plastic fold-up; Emergency poncho; Emergency whistle; Sunscreen (optional); 1 pair wool socks; Small flashlight + spare batteries; 2 Granola Bars or Power Bars; Medication you may need, including Aspirin or non-aspirin pain killer; Extra bootlaces (may second as small ropes; sewing kit + safety pins; a yard of thin wire; one to three yards of Duct tape; small bag of salt; Cellular Phone lost: 1!z136 make sure someone knows where you'll be and your timetable. Use emergency whistle, signal mirror, smoke from burning green or damp plants. WATER STILL: 2! details of clear-plastic sealed holes. this water-still in the desert will probably not deliver enough drinkable water to make the work entailed in making the still worthwhile. The still works best where the moisture source is good, such as with a still near the ocean, where salt water conversion to drinking water is the goal. STAYING ALIVe: 2! z137 first concerns after safety, immediate shelter from heat or cold, and the treatment of any injuries should be water. You must find it. A bandana, sock or tee shirt can be used to remove dew from wet grasses and leaves. A water still may save your life (see discussion above under TIP #5. Trap rainwater in rain gear, tent fly, plastic bag, etc. Seek low areas and areas of lush greenery., water purification tablets,especially between 2PM and 6Pm, the most likely summer thunderstorm period. Avoid marshy areas and wide open areas, as well, during thunderstorms. There, you will stand out as a target and watery earth conducts electricity. Get away from metal you may be carrying. Stay put! Do not wander about. Movement diminishes chances for being found; increases the chance of injury; burns vital energy and increases need for water. Use your time gathering firewood, nursing your fire, replenishing water supply, etc. A QUINZE: 1! z138 snow shelter sim2 my efforts with clay. 2 methods: 1.build pile and let each layer crystalize b4 next layer, then hollow out, 2. if no time to let set to crystalize, dig trench, cover with sticks, then snow on top.
1-14.htm ! z139 chat group searches it 4u http://www.halfbakery.com my-notes.txt:subjetct = Fresh Water Hand Pump. two ways of boiling water. You can either raise the temperature, or lower the pressure. Since water at room temperature boils at around 0.36psi Vacuum aided boiling to distill away impurities, Since atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 pounds per square inch (101.3kPa, and I can easily lift 14.7 pounds with one hand (even after a few glasses, it should not be difficult. This could be the size and weight of a bicycle pump, and would be perfect to include in any survival kit. google.com: vacuum distill water,
every war in the near future (after this one, obviously) will be over drinkable water,instead of being over oil. -Pericles, Mar 29 2003 Boiling z142 is one way to get the water molecules away from impurities. Osmosis is another. Reverse osmosis hand pumps, the filter must be replaced - but not in your method. hookes law. the pressure inside is 0.36psi and the pressure outside is 14.7psi. The force you have to apply is the difference - 14.34lb. , as liquids dont expand or contract. This requires a much higher force, to create this vacuum you need to break intermolecular forces. answer?: z143 Have it inject a small bubble of air into the water at the bottom of the down stroke. 2! Otherwise, you might be better off using that hand power to condense water from air. it's just a matter of funneling off the water as it condenses back. hand or bicycle powered?, The difference between the boiling pressure of water at room temperature and ambient pressure is about 14.3 psi. z144 Considering a bicycle pump is capable of well over 60 psi
Enough water would vaporise to build up the pressure in the vacuum. Then it would stop. downward could compress the vapour quickly, before it condenses and drops back into the water, and pump it out through a check valve. So, in effect, the pump needs to 'work' in both directions. Slow up and fast down. -Ling, Apr 28 2005 -see clark-pump?
(ling) Quick isn't necesary. z145 It needs to condense either way, the trick is seperating the condensation. If you introduce the dirty water in the center, the walls can be used to collect condensation(which prefers walls) -my: sounds like a vortex!
1! z146had to give up the study to focus on how to make enough money to eat. The sum of all freshwater on earth would easily flood the city built to hold all earths people in my estimations.
1! z147 Is it that the human state of being is to bicker + bargain over resources it could never use individually so as to prove dominance? -Zimmy, Apr 28 2005
z148 Last figures I saw pointed to the population of the Earth fitting into an area the size of Tasmania, if they lived at the housing density of the city of Shanghai. -UnaBubba, Apr 28 2005
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1-15.htm SURVIVAL IN A CAVE - brief but sharp, by gary bush z149 my-notes: clothing: layering will keep you warm even when wet:polyproplyene,wool,then outer garments, 1! tell people where you are going,when,what. Two garbage bags, double baging increases your insulating dead air space. One space-blanket(plastic-metal?) reflects 90% bodies heat,excellent when used with a second heat source. water, purification tablets, Candles.Matches and/or lighter. Pencil and paper, Watch - or time-traker -cuz being trappped can seem an eternity.
insulate against 1! z150 cold-from-the-ground. Closed-cell-foam pad or a small piece of ensolite which fits easily in any pack. tea!,Heat water to keep body-core-temperature up. z151
z152 wind from moving water will add to the chilling effects, which in turn will drain your body of precious heat. Next wring out clothes, put back on. 100% humidity will do nothing toward drying them, your body will dry them in about 5 hours. invaluable in keeping you warm. z153 the ground is an excellent heat sink. your head is highly vascularized which allows a lot of heat to escape from there. Its amazing how little food your body needs as long as no great energy demand is made on it. z154 huddles, try to minimize surface areas exposed to the air and ground.
z155 Time seems distorted if waiting to regain contact with...? mind's ability to handle stresses dims when natural cycles are disrupted. staying on a cycle.
z156 2! when contact with water causes the foot to swelL making it painful to walk You can avoid this condition by airing out your feet for 3-4 hours per day. Also, polypropylene inner socks and wool outer socks will help reduce moisture on your feet. Keep your boots off as long as possible. This allows air to circulate around your feet and gives them time to dry.
z157 dont do something rash and get yourself killed. People have died for lack of patience. Don't be one of them. my:-wanting to get home? made me rush on a new path were i lost my eyes -sunglasses.
z158 1-3p1.htm + p2 3 4 ! very nfo, 2many words? 2! millennium-ark.com? preface: Finding Survival Water: z159 Many men died because didnt know how... insects, Bees must have water. Pigeons and all grain eaters must have water, but the flesh eaters such as the crow, hawk and eagle... know something of their nature to find their hidden stores of precious water. One drop of contaminated water can so sicken that... assume all water to be impure until proved. animals drinking it or smell is not proof its safe. native people using it may have built an immunity to its harms. boiling for 10min kills germs, but not chemical pollutants which may travel with steam in a still?, can be clay or carbon-filtered? z160 Getting sick takes days, even weeks, or death. -thats water entering you by 'any' way. example, water used4 toothbrush, food, utensils washed, or used in cooking (except at high-long heat). z161 NOTE: Boiled water tastes flat. Air and taste can be restored by shaking it or, add a pinch of salt. z162 STAGNANT WATER and POLLUTED WATER Both made safe filtered through a sieve of charcoal. To clarify + purify it. How much filtering is a question, safer to boil. MUDDY WATERS CLEANING METHODS z163 If muddy, floating clay particles can be settled out by adding a pinch of alum. This, however, requires at least 12 hours waiting and lots of wood!
Polluted or dirty water can be filtered by straining through closely woven garments such as a felt hat or a pair of thick drill trousers. This will remove sediments only, not purify. TO CLEAN and PURIFY MUDDY WATER: 2! z164 Step 1 Let it rest during 12 hours. Step 2 Let it circulate inside a bamboo stick or other tube measuring 1 yard, filled with sand and the end packed with grass. Step 3 Then pour water through a cloth filled with sand which filters the mud. Step 4 Boil that water afterward for a minimum of 10 minutes. TO MAKE A FILTER: z165 method clears water but not any dissolved minerals nor ensure purity.
Water is polluted by animal and mineral matter, discoloring vegetable substances such as grass roots and dead leaves. The first two can not be removed with any sureness by ordinary filtering. This filter is to clear water by straining it through solid material. A "wild" filter in sandy areas: scooping a hole a few feet from the source, let the water seep into it.
HOT STONES METHOD z166 Polluted water can be sterilized by adding hot stones to the water in the filter. The water will soon boil becoming sterile and safe drink.
near cities or villages it is always safer to boil before drinking or add a pinch of chloride of lime. 2! Water very muddy, dirty or stagnant can be filtered in a pair of trousers with one leg turned inside out and put inside the other leg. z167
The cuff is tied and the upper part held open by 3 stakes driven well into the ground. Fill with the dirty water and then drop in the hot stones. water filtered MUST be caught by a container and poured back til clear. z166 Boil. Remember 1! just moistening your lips with polluted water can make you sick for days; it can even kill you. -so no bread\cookie preservatives. WATER PURITY two rules to choose from: z167 1. when doubt about water, purify it. 2. a lively bubbling stream cleans itself in 30 feet of flowing over rocks and sands. meens 'If the cow's around the bend, the water's fit to drink.' 2. fits mountainous, wooded country. 1. Yet as pollution increases, we take first rule. z168 Boiling takes fuel and time, but in dangerous regions drink a lot of tea dont wait to cool. For Halazone (drug?), use one tablet per pint of water, let stand 1/2 hour , tastes like a swimming pool. Aerating pouring it back and forth between two containers shaking several times removes chlorine taste. hold your breath while drinking it.
SIMPLE CHEMICAL PURIFICATION z169 chemicals at most sporting goods and drug stores. depends upon the release of chlorine gas, the tablets should be fresh and dry. z170 2! NO PURIFICATION OF WATER BY CHEMICAL MEANS IS AS SAFE AS BOILING. and chemicals dont remove chemicals? only living diseases. z171 Two tabs of Iodine will ordinarily make a quart of water safe for human consumption in 1/2 hour. if unsure double the amount and standing time to be sure. 1! disinfect all points of contact with the container, so that the sterilized water will not be easily reinfected. z172 If a jar or canteen is being used together with Iodine, replace the cover loosely and wait 30 minutes so the tablets(gasses can dissolve). Then shake allowing some to spill out over the top and lips of the holder. Tighten the cover and leave it that way for the time 30min.
CHLORIDE OF LIME z173 Chlorine in some form is regarded as the most dependable disinfectant for drinking water. When introduced in proper quantities, it destroys any existing organisms. For as long as enough remains in the water, it prevents recurring contamination. better to over-dosage than not enough.
EMERGENCY CHLORINATING DONE IN 3 STEPS z174 1 Dissolve one heaping tablespoon of chloride of lime in 8 quarts of water. 2 Add one part of this solut to 100 parts of the water to be disinfected. 3 Wait 30 min. keep tightly corked, cool, dark place and renewed often. Tincture of iodine can be used as an emergency purifier. A drop mixed thoroughly with one quart of water , wait 30 minutes. double the amount and time if cautions.
IODINE WATER PURIFICATION TABLETS z175 Chlorine-releasing compound can not be relied upon in semi-tropical and tropical areas. Water in those regions must be sterilized either by boiling or by iodine water purification tablets containing the active ingredient Tetraglycine Hydroperiodine, is standard by the armed services of the USA.
proved effective against all water-borne bacteria. Added to water each tablet frees 8 milligrams of iodine which act as a purification factor. One tablet will purify one quart. must b kept dry. bottle recapped tightly. Step 1 Add one tablet to a quart of water in container with cap. Step 2 Wait 3 minutes. Step 3 Shake water thoroughly, allowing a little water to leak out and disinfect the screw threads before tightening the cap. Step 4 Wait 10 minutes before drinking or adding beverage powders and if water is very cold 1!, wait 20 minutes. Step 5 If water contains decaying vegetation or is murky and discolored, use 2 tablets for every one quart. Step 6 Make certain that the iodine disinfects any part of the container which will come in contact with your lips.
OTHER CHEMICALS TO STERILIZE WATER z176 Step 1 JAVEL: Add 5 drops of Javel per 4.5 litres of water never pass that dosage. Its drawback is that water tastes acidic. Step 2 'Permanganate de Potasse': Drop a piece of it in the water in a way that the water is hardly tainted and wait 1 hour before drinking. Step 3 In South America, people purify water ponds with 1! copper sulphate 1 million parts to one part of water.
HOW TO RECOGNIZE POISONOUS WATER HOLES: z177 as southwestern deserts of usa contain dissolved poison such as arsenic. recognized partly by bones of unwary animals about area, green vegetation is oddly absent. 1!? Avoid any water hole without green plants. POISONED RIVER: z178 He simply dug a hole at 9 feet from the river bank and let the water seep through thus eliminating the poison. must be dug deeper than the river bed. HARD WATER z179 small amounts at any one time. Boiling may be of some help, but that is all one can do, until used to it.
A WAY TO SWEETEN WATER z180 If you are camping by a swamp or pond with an unpleasant odor, Just drop several bits of charred hardwood from the campfire into the boiling pot. 10 or 15 minutes simmering will do the job. Then you can skim away most of the foreign matter and strain the water through a clean cloth or allow it to settle 12hr.
WATER HAZARDS and SICKNESS z181 Diseases from water 1! is one of the greatest threats to survival, also injuries, cold and man! brings: Dysentery, Cholera, Typhoid, Douves. DYSENTERY z182 This sickness causes general diarrhea, painful and of long duration with bloody stools and weakness. If you think you suffer it, eat frequently and drink, if possible, coconut milk and boiled water. coconut milk is a laxative, drink small. Boiled rice is best as food during this illness. CHOLERA AND TYPHOID z183 Even with vaccine, you are vulnerable by unproper water drinking habits. DOUVES z184 They abound in stagnant and polluted water especially in the Tropics. When you swallow them, they infiltrate the blood causing severe sickness and often death. These parasite worms penetrate the body even through the skin. z185 1! Don't walk or bathe in contaminated waters. Nowhere does the addition of liquor to ice or water rid either of germs. (Germs keep well in ice); they don't die. LEECHES and HOW TO GET RID OF THEM z186 The small leeches abound most particularly in water streams of Africa. When swallowed, they cling to throat and nose passages. They suck the blood and cause wounds. These parasites move and each time they do, they cause new open wounds which leads the way to infection.
Clean your nose 1! as quickly as possible by sniffing very salted water or remove the leeches with improvised tweezers or with the heat from a burning stick. or rub salt on them which will make them leave. ...Go To Page 2
WHERE TO FIND WATER? z187 always learning from nature. water near the tops of mountains indicated by a lush area or a thread of green 'verdancy' coming down a slope. Water is also prone to lie near the base of hills, recognized density of vegetation. country flat and open, long tangles of brush and shrubs alder and willow tell much water. WHEN TO FOLLOW GAME TRAIL 1! z188 Those trails often indicate water presence. A usually reliable indication is a marked increase in the deepening and widening of the trail. commonly mean a muskeg (bog lies ahead), take animals-trail around it. DESERT WATER 1! z189 Water seeks the lowest level , these may be underground. If you see hills, head toward them, for the likeliest place to find water is at their base. dry stream-bed . Even dry, water may lie beneath the surface. Hunt for a low place and dig. same with dry lake bottoms. soon indicated by damp sand. Game trails in desert country usually lead to water. Follow them downhill scout around for the paths more frequented. z190 a palm-tree or broad-leaf?, meens water within several feet of the base of the tree. thick Reed grass is also a sound sign that moisture? is near. no water near desert plants, Instead, destructivly use the plant roots water. For cactus, cut off the head and avoid the milk. Arizona desert, a bottle shaped cactus which contains near 7 quarts . cut off sections , Mash them in a container. suck the pulp. TIPS z191 1 Where you see damp soil, dig in surface. 2 just under the surface of a dry river. at the lowest point of the river bed, in the exterior part of the elbow of its bed. Digging under the concave bank of the exterior side of the river curve is the place to find water, Help the water to flow by digging small holes. blood wounds? 3 behind rocks, in trenches and small ditches, on the flank of canyon or under the sharp edge of cliff and maybe you will find natural reservoirs. Often in those places, the soil is made of solid rock or very hard soil well packed that collects water. If you can't find those clues, search for water where the animals leave their traces. z192 4 In desert, remember to observe the flight of birds particularly at dawn and dusk. Birds glide and hover around these marshes. Go there every day; parrots and pigeons are rarely very far from it.
5 In the Gobi Desert, don't count on plants. z193 6 roots of certain desert plants are found very near the surface soil. Remove the skin and suck the water contained in it. 7 The Madagascar Traveling Tree of Western Africa and the Australian and African Baobab are among the plants capable of supplying water. z194 1!? Don't listen to stories of contaminated wells. The acid taste of certain salty or alkaline waters rich in magnesium are the cause. Desert waters by the nature of their surge are generally better filtered and clearer than your city water. Yet, better boil that water or add Iodine or Halazone pills especially in native villages or near inhabited places. DESERT SURVIVAL - WALKING z195 Desert: adapt yourself to it, dont try fighting it. natives refuse violent effort during hottest hours, they drink and drink as soon as possible. 140 to 350 miles (225 to 563 km) between 10 to 20 days, while walking only at night and with only a little water . z196 he had taken a short survival course and did the right thing. Helay down in theshadow of his car,outside. and slept the hottest part of the day. 6pm around 95'F (35'C); he set off along the road. He knew there were steel water tanks for tourist at regular intervals. -2! know your target area. z197 1! Every so often he collected large stones and laid them out on the road to spell the word HELP with an arrow showing the direction he was walking in. z198 Another family who also got stranded did survive by laying close to the car shadow, applying lipstick to the blisters and swollen lips of the husband and children and covering everyone cheeks and arms with rouge. -try dirt. z199 Discovering that the ground was cooler a few inches below the surface, she and her husband buried the children up to the neck in sand and applied sand to the children's faces, then they did the same for themselves. z200 In most deserts, the temperature a foot below the surface is less than 72'F (2! apply this to a dehumidifier devices need of a 'cold spot' -as iranian wind-cathers?} clothing in the can of urine and pressed on children's face, the smell was unpleasant, but the moisture was refreshingly cool. They were later rescued in good health, but if they had decide to walk off in bright day, they would have been either dead or in very bad conditions. It pays to learn the tricks of survival.
DESERT TRAVEL HINTS z201 Travel at night as much as possible. 1 Cover yourself as much as possible. 2!! Clothing stops sweat evaporating too quickly and helps you benefit from its cooling effect. If you remove your shirt, you will feel more at ease but you'll also sweat much more besides risking sunburn. -apply this to a dew-collector concept. 2 Keep your clothing on. You will walk further if you don't sweat too much. 3 Unless you have a lot water, don't waste it washing. 4 When drinking, don't swallow big gulps in one shot. Drink small quantities. If low in water, then only dampen your lips. 5 Keeping a few small pebbles in your mouth will ease your thirst; breathe through the covered nose and don't talk. 6 Absorb salt ! only with water and only if you have a lot of water. z202 7 Drink as often and as much as you can; the saving of water will not get you much farther, yet don't waste it. 8 When extremely thirsty any liquid is tempting, but don't drink any alcohol. Aside from its effects, it only 2! dehydrates the body. 9 Urine is harmful and only increases thirst. 10 Smoking dehydrates your body and heightens the need to drink. z203 Sluggishness of the digestive system is a natural consequence of going without normal amounts of water and nourishment. 2! This condition need not cause concern and will re-adjust itself when normal conditions resume. So don't take any laxative under such conditions for it depletes the body of further fluid.
DEW 2! z204 Dew which settles after cold nights in many stretches of deserts has also been a life saver. Survivors have mopped it from the metal of their wrecked plane or collected it in tarpaulins. z205 Dew must be collected before the sunrise, for it evaporates quickly. An abundant dew can give a little more than 1 litre of water/hour. Thirsty Bedouins sometimes 2! dig up cool stones just before sunrise and wait till dew settles on them, then lick the stones dry. z206 In many desert regions according to Israeli scientist Shmuel Duvdevani, dew falls in a quantity which would amount to 25 inches (63.5cm) in a year. z207 During war, one of the strangest sources of water is the wreck of burned out or shot up jeeps and tanks and trucks. men walked 20 miles (32 km) a day filling up their water bottles regularly from the 2! radiator of such vehicles. (This is a good idea unless the radiator contains glycol ether which is anti-freeze, a toxic substance.
BEDOUINS WATER EXPERTS z208 Survival-experts study the methods of Bedouins with their amazing sixth sense to lead them to sources of water. z209 Morning and evenings, for instance, they listen to tee twittering of birds to locate where the birds get their drink. or find water holes by watching the direction in which birds are flying or by following animals trails. Flocks of birds circling over one spot, excepting vultures, usually indicate a drinking place in the desert. z210 Of course the water there is not always pure , a stench of sh++ is almost sick. -fart smell? But his thirst was greater than his disgust. He had no iodine to disinfect water nor anything to make a fire with and boil it, so he drank it and was none the worse. I should point out, that he should have dug a hole nearby (9 feet) and let the water seep through thus safer in some ways. 9 feet would also get rid of water contaminated by radiation. 2! z211 Dense clouds of flies swarming over a place in the desert show Bedouins where there was water only a short while before and they almost always find it worth digging there. z212 Bedouins have discovered fairly large supplies of water either on the edge of a desert very near salt lakes or in the middle of deep dune valleys. Rain water collects there, seeps into the ground and settles between different layers of soil. z213 If, while digging, they hit upon wet sand with a dry layer underneath it, it is a sign that the water has already drained off farther downhill or evaporated in which case they start digging again in a lower lying spot. z214 Almost every desert has wadis, where sometimes water is still found only a few feet under a surface which is apparently bone dry. Of course, there is often no more than a layer of mud left, but thirsty people have pressed it into a cloth and drunk the water unharmed. Those who died from it never told their stories.
AFRICAN BUSHMEN z215 They dig a small hole in the mud, stick a suction pipe into it, then suck the moisture out of the ground drop by drop. A grass filter stops any sand getting into the bottom of the pipe. Water not needed at once is stored in blown-out ostrich eggs in which quite a large amount can be carried. z216 If water tastes very soapy or salty, it may be poisonous. In the Gobi Desert for instance, there are springs which contain alkali. In Arizona several springs contain arsenic and a spring in the Sahara contains so much chlorine that it corrodes clothes. WHERE TO FIND WATER IN ROCKY SOILS z217 Water easily disintegrates limestone and digs caverns which is where you will find springs and water sweating.
LAVA ETC. z218 Because of its porosity, lava retains much water, so you will find springs along valleys which crosses old lava flows. When a dry canyon cuts across a sandstone or gritstone layer, there is water which sweats on its walls. -2! In a region rich in granite, dig a hole in the green grass and you will discover water coming up. -1!
IN SOFT SOILS z219 Water is ordinarily more abundant and easier to discover in soft than in rocky soils. The phreatic sheets often come to surface in valleys and slopes. The springs and sweating are found in the high level line of the river waters after those have retracted away. z220 Before digging to find water, try to discover the signs which indicates its presence. The bottom of a valley, at the foot of a sharp slope, a corner of vegetation which has sheltered a spring during rainy season, a low forest and sea shores, are among many places where the hydrostatic level lies under the surface. -dowsing?. z221 There is no need to dig deeply in order to find water. Above the level of the phreatic sheet, there are small streams and ponds. However, those waters are contaminated and dangerous even when far away from any civilization. Example: Springs below towns.
ON MOUNTAINS z222 Dig in dry spring beds; water often hides under the gravel. Mountain slopes usually hide springs at their feet. 1!
OTHER SOURCES OF SUPPLY z223 Creosote plants, Willows, Elder Berry, Salted Herbs grow only where water is near the surface. 1! By a starry night, one can with a handkerchief mop up and gather up to 1 quart of water per hour from damp soils where you see flies.
INSECTS, BIRDS AND ANIMALS INDICATORS OF WATER z224 Bees in an area are a certain sign of water. Rarely will you find a hive of wild bees more than 3 or 4 miles from fresh water. A bee flies a mile in 12 minutes.
ANTS z225 Many ants need water, so if you see a steady column of small black ants climbing a tree trunk and disappearing into a hole in a crotch, it is highly probable that you fill find a hidden reservoir of fresh water stored away there. This can be proved by dipping a long straw or thin stick down the hole into which the ants are going. z226 If wet, then water is there. To get the water, do not on any account chop into the tree. If the hole is very small, enlarge it with your knife-point at the top. Make a mop by tying grass or a rag to a stick. Dip the mop into the water and squeeze into a container. z227 Another method is to take a long hollow straw and suck the water you need from the reservoir. These natural tree reservoirs are very common in dry areas, and are often kept full by the dew which condensing on the upper branches of the tree, trickles down into the crotch and into the reservoir inside the tree. 2!! z228 Water reservoirs are very common in the She-Oaks (casuarinas) and many species of Wattle.
...Go to Page 3 MASON FLIES z229 large, hornet-like creatures, building in an area, meens a few hundred yards from a soak of wet earth. see the mason fly hover and then suddenly drop to the ground. If you examine the place where she landed, you will find the soil is moist and that she is busy rolling a pellet of mud for 2! her building. By digging down a few inches or feet, you will find fresh water. BIRD INDICATORS FINCHES z230 All finches are grain-eaters and water drinkers. In the dry belts, if you see a colony of finches, you can be certain that you are near water, probably a hidden spring or permanent soak. WILD PIGEONS z231 indicats water. grain and seed eaters, spend the day out on the plains feeding and before dusk, make for a water hole, drink their fill and fly slowly back to their nest. manner of flying will tell you the direction of water supply. 2! If flying low and swift, meenz to water, but if from tree to tree and slow, they are returning from drinking their fill and vulnerable to birds of prey.
GRAIN EATERS z232 and most ground-feeders require water, tracks on the ground, meenz water within a few miles of your location. parrots are not reliable indicators. CARNIVORES BIRDS z233 get their moisture from flesh, not reliable water-drinkers. Nor does living birds indicate drinkable water to humans. MAMMALS z234 unless a regular trail, not be sure of animal trails. but some never travel far from water. Example: A fresh track of wild pigs or rooster or grazing animals, whose habit is to drink at dawn or dusk. do follow these trails. FROGS ETC. z235 Frogs, salamanders, weevil charancons always look for a damp place to rest, dig under them, water points, even springs. REPTILES z236 reptiles are independent, no water. They get what they need from 2! dew. WATER FROM VEGETABLE SOURCES z237 Roots and branches of many trees contain sufficient free-flowing fluid 2! to relieve thirst? collect by breaking the roots or branches into 3 feet lengths,standing these in a trough of bark, fluid drains to the container. z238 In some plants the amount of stored water is truly unbelievable. The water will gush out literally when the plant is cut. 2! WARNING!: THESE VEGETABLE 'DRINKING-WATERS' go bad in 24 HOURS. The fluid starts to ferment or go bad if stored, dangerous to drink. The nature of the plant, if judged by its foliage, is no guide for the drinkability of the fluid which is its sap. z239 example, Eucalyptus leaves are heavily with oils of Eucalyptus, poisonous to human beings, but contain a drinkable fluid, collected from branches or roots, free from essential oils no taint. roots measure from 12 to 25 metres (39 to 82 feet), crawling under low depth. Pull them off, remove the bark, and the sap will sweat at both ends, where you put containers. The Liana or Monkey ropes of tropical regions are abundant source of water. z240 precautions and danger signs of vegetable fluids: milky or red or colored in any way is dangerous to drink, and to the skin. Many of the milky saps, except those of the ficus family which contain latex or a natural rubber, are extremely poisonous. -use for darts? 2!except the Barrel cactus USA. z241 The milky sap of many weeds can poison the skin and form bad sores, and if allowed to get into the eyes, cause blindness. With all vegetable sources of fluid, even though the water itself is clear, taste it first and if quite or almost tasteless or flavorless, it is safe to drink. 1! z242 For vegetable sources of water in arid areas, best obtained by scratching up the surface roots. discovered close to the ground and if cut close to the tree, may be lifted and pulled, each root yielding from 10 to 20 feet. These MUST be cut in 3-4 feet lengths for draining. z243 Many persons failed to get the precious liquid to flow just because they did not break or cut the stalk or root into lengths. Unless these breaks are made, the fluid can not flow and the conclusion is that the root, branch or vine is without moisture. 2! z244 In general, water is more plentiful from plants in gullies than on ridges. And the flow is wasted if the roots are broken into sections and NOT CUT. Cutting tends to bruise and seal the capillary channels.
DEW COLLECTION z245 where no trees, collect dew-moisture from the grass to preserve life. tie rags or tufts of fine grass round the ankles and walk through the herbage before the sun has risen, squeezing the moisture collected by the rags into a container. Many explorers saved their life that way. Pig-face and Ice plant and Pig weed contain large drinkable moisture. WATER ON SEA COAST z246 along the sea coast by digging behind the wind blown sand hills which back most ocean beaches. sand hills trap rain water and it floats on top of the heavier salt water which filters in from the ocean. Sand hill wells must be only deep enough to uncover the top inch or 2 of water. SAND WELLS: If dug deeper, salt water will be encountered and the water from the well will be undrinkable. water in those wells rises and falls slightly with the tides. COMPLETELY RELIABLE SOURCES OF WATER ALL OVER THE WORLD. z247 When digging, it is necessary to rivet the sides of the well with brushwood, otherwise the sand will fall into the well. On coastal areas where cliffs fall into a sea, careful search along the lower edges of the cliff will generally disclose soaks or small springs. These, follow a fault 2! in the rock formation and are evident by a lush growth of ferns and mosses. z248 I found that near the cliff, at the bottom of them where you find fallen rocks meeting the sand beach, dig there, not too close to those rocks, you will find water about 1 foot down. a perpetual source of water. MAKE SURE you rivet the side also and just cover the hole with some planks or drift board and mark it well so that it keeps animals away, for sand will cover it fast after a while from the nearby sand hill. I survived on them for 5 months on a deserted island, Brion Island, QC.
SEA MOISTURE FROM FISH FLESH z249 when no fresh water is available, comes from flesh of the fish. diced and the small portions of flesh are placed cotton cloth and the moisture wrung out. not excessively salty and can sustain life for a long period. CONDENSING SALT WATER 2! -apply concept to a dew-collector z250 condense sea water without equipment and obtain fresh water. A coolamon 2! is made or alternatively a hole is scraped in the ground and lined. The salt water is put into this hole. A fire is built and stones are put into it to heat up. These, when hot, are put into the salted water which soon boils and then water vapor is soaked up by a towel or thick mat of cloth.
In time, this will become literally saturated and may be wrung out, yielding a fair quantity of fresh drinkable water. Once the cloth is cool 1! the collection of water vapor is fairly rapid. MOISTURE CONDENSATION IN ARID AREAS 1! z251 This still produces about 50% more water between 8pm. and 8 am. than during the day, but it still works day and night. Don't depend to drink this water immediately for it takes 24 hours before collecting 1 quart (1 litre) of water sometimes. z252 made from a piece of light plastic sheeting about 4 feet (122cm) square. A clean garbage bag which has been fully cut and open will do. A hole is dug in the ground in a sunny position. The hole should be about 3 feet (1 meter) across and 15" to 18' (38cm - 46cm) deep or deeper if possible. z253 The site should be preferably in a moist ground, a depression in a creek bed is ideal if one can be found. If green material such as shrubs or succulent herbage is nearby, the hole should be lined with this and the materials packed down. It may be necessary to weigh down the material with a few flat stones. In centre of hole and in deepest part, a container is placed. z254 Lay the sheet of plastic across and covering the hole using some of the earth scooped from the hole to 1! seal the edges lightly. Place a stone in the centre of the upper side of the plastic sheet above the center to weigh it down to just over the container below. z255 Moisture in the soil and in the greenery placed in the hole will be drawn off by the heat of the sun and condense on the underside of the plastic. The condensed moisture will collect into droplets, coalesce and trickle down the underside to the lowest point where it drops off into the container. z256 If the underside of the plastic sheet is slightly roughened with fine sandpaper or similar fine abrasive such as a piece of finely grained stone, the droplets will coalesce and run off more cleanly than if the underside is absolutely smooth. z257 Body waste such as urine, waste food, moist tea leaves etc. can be put into the hole. The pure moisture only is condensed. From 1 - 4 pints of water a day can be collected by this method. z258 If the stay in the area is likely to be of some duration, the top few inches of the hole can be removed and fresh green material replaced and the still will continue to work when this is done. FRESH STILL SITES MAY BE NECESSARY EVERY 2ND OR 3RD DAY. z259 This still can also bring you food! Since water under the plastic will attract snakes and small games which will crawl under the still cone but can not go out. tube-straw Drink from the bottom bucket without having to remove it and stopping the recuperation.
OTHER WAYS TO FIND WATER: z260 EXPERIENCE WITH A OIL LAMP -damp power? 1! At night, dig a hole 2 feet deep, cover the bottom with very dry wood and place an oil lamp which has very little oil (just so the wick is imbibed, light it up and place it on the wood floor.
Cover up the hole with branches and wait till morning to see if your oil lamp is still burning. If so, then there is water at a certain depth. Dig and you shall find it. Why is that? z261 Because the dampness of the under water sheet increases the air condensation furnishing more oxygen and thus, makes the oil last longer which keeps the flame to your oil lamp. If however it has died, then there is a lack of dampness. The oil alone has not sufficed for the night's duration having burned faster than the air which was too dry.
WATER FROM A LANTERN z262 If no other means, any metal container and lighted lantern may be used to obtain water. Remove one end of the container and submerge the closed end in a foot or more of salt water. Place the lighted lantern inside the container on the bottom. Cover the open top, allowing only enough air to enter to keep the lantern burning. The heat will cause moisture to form on the inside container. This can be soaked up with a rag and squeezed into a cup.
EXPERIENCE WITH A WOOL BALL z263 do as for the oil lamp but replace it by a wool ball. Put a very dry wool ball on the dry wood and cover the hole. The following morning, look at your ball and press it strongly, the quantity of water will tell you if its worth digging.
RAIN WATER z264 Always safe to drink and easy to collect with any tarp, but unfortunately there are three exceptions. A chemical, atomic or bacteriological warfare would render this water unsafe unless filtered and boiled. Man has created its own worst problems.
WATER IN COLD CLIMATE z265 Clean snow can be eaten any time one is thirsty. not to much at once. eating snow when extremely cold has the tendency to dehydrate the body and provoke chill. Let it melt slowly into your mouth in small quantity. wilderness ice cream: milk sugar flavor such as chocolate and stir in light snow till taste and texture are. z266 Snow drawback is that a considerable amount is needed to equal a glass of water. Packed snow gives more water of course, ice even more. z267 Particular care has to be taken when melting snow to not burn the pot. Melt the snow until the bottom of the pot is safely covered with several inches of water before adding more snow. Use any tool to pack the snow as it melts to avoid the bottom of your pot drying up and burning. This nuisance is compensated for by the fact that snowfall makes water readily available throughout wilderness. z268 One needs a lot more water in cold weather than one expects, because the kidneys have to take over much of the process of elimination otherwise done by the sweat glands.
ICE and FRESH WATER z269 This is the water supply of many an Arctic establishment but the tasks of cutting and melting is sufficiently inconvenient that when it is feasible, most prefer to chop or chisel holes in the lake or stream to get water. z270 Such holes must be covered to discourage their freezing. Also it is the preferable method since you waste no fuel. To obtain water you need twice the amount of fuel to melt snow than if you melt ice for the same quantity of water. z271 To break ice, it is better to use a pointed tool. First, hit a few light strokes to create a split then a hard blow to break an ice piece the length desired. On a great lake or long river, cut toward an already existing split to avoid making only small bits. z272 If dign a hole in a lake or river to obtain water, avoid splashing. First, start to axe all around your hole, make sure not to puncture the ice all the way to the water,til hole is deep and wide enough for your bucket. z273 Then when near water on all sides, give a sharp blow to break the ice completely. If you don't do this, the water will seep into the hole and you will get dangerously wet while trying to enlarge it. However, as far as purity is concerned, ice and the water obtained from melting ice differ in no respect from the water originally frozen.
...Go To Page 4 SALT WATER ICE BECOMES FRESH z274 the ocean is salt, so ice of salt water must also be salted. Wrong! Dr. V. Stefansson notes, the sea ice becomes fresh during the period intervening between its formation and the end of the first summer thereafter. z275 If, during freezing weather, you are ever in a position where you have no other source of water but salted water, you'll want to catch small amounts of the available brine and allow ice to form in it. The slush and any remaining liquid should then be removed. -2! learn about refridgeration? if salt, why not other impurites? Ocean ice loses its salt so rapidly that ice over 1 year old is nearly fresh. z276 Melted hollowed or otherwise will usually be found to contain ample fresh water. Salted ice is grey and opaque whereas unsalted ice is bluish and crystal colored.
FINDING DRINKING WATER ON OCEAN z277 Rain water will often furnish drinking water at sea. When it starts to fall, Dew is heavy enough is some areas to merit being caught in a sail or tarpaulin stretched with sufficient sag for condensation to collect.One may beoout of sight of land and yet so near the mouth of some great river that even far at sea the water will still be fresh.
OBTAINING WATER FROM FISH z278 They can be caught in many different ways and in some waters many fish will even leap freely aboard at night especially if a light is shown to attract them. Sea snakes which, unlike eels, have no scales are edible but have poisonous fangs. 10 times worse than the land ones. Unless the fish has ordinary scales leave it alone.
WATER FROM FISH z279 Water can be obtained from freshly caught fish in several different ways. The most fundamental method is to divide the fish into small portions and chew each of these thoroughly spitting all solid matter before going oo the next morsel. The fish can also be sectioned and twisted within a cloth, the freed juice is either sucked or caught. z280 One primitive way of dealing with a large fish is to hack holes in its side and allow moisture from the lymphatic vessels to ooze into these. takes several hours to obtain 1/2 litre of this liquid, so be patient while squeezing fish. BODY WATER PRESERVATION z281 on the other side. make what you drink last. You must not sweat. Your body exits heat either by evaporation or sweating. As soon as the body fluid volume lowers, sweating diminishes, the body temperature rises and you exhaust quickly. 6 degrees increase in your normal body temperature is of lethal consequences. Even though you seem to be less hot when you remove clothing; you also quickly lose your organic fluid that way. If you stay clothed; you will prevent the heat to penetrate and this will also slow down the evaporation. z282 YOU MUST BOTH DRINK AND AVOID SWEATING TO AVOID DEHYDRATION. a man spends 3,000 calories a day and suvvive on 500 calories per day without bad effects on his organism. z283 in condition of great fatigue or cold exposure, one has to eat more to maintain his body temperature. Water is more than food. (2 cups per day minimum. Once exposed to desert heat, one needs a minimum of 3.8 litres (1 gallon) of water per day. to cover 30km (18.64 miles) as long as the sweating is well-controlled and the moving is done at night. During the day, it would give you 15km (9.32 miles)
WHAT TO DO IF WATER IS SCARCE z284 drink as much as we reasonably can before quitting the sourceoof supply. Fill up before abandoning ship. If in dry country; drink a lot while and just before leaving the water hole . 1! water comes first. z285 We repeat that an unbelievable amount of water is exuded 1! through the skin's pores and the rate of perspiration is markedly increased both by heat and by exertion. The need for water intake can be much lessened by your keeping as quiet as possible and as comfortably cool as one can. z286 Keeping the clothing wet will help at sea in hot weather although it should be rinsed in the latter part of the afternoon to prevent collecting too much salt. Allow to dry out before evening if the nights are chilly. z287 If in desert without sufficient water stay as relaxed and cool as possible. Travel at dusk, night and dawn. If on flat shelterless desert, scoop a narrow pit to lie in while the sun is blaring down. z288 The 2! utmost shade will be obtained if this trench extends East and West. Two or 3 feet of depth can result in as much as 30 degree or more difference in temperature between its shadowy bottom and ground level. z289 leave some sign of your presence in case help passes near by. a shirt.
WHEN WATER IS REPLENISHED z290 When water has missed for a long while, you MUST NOT DRINK A GREAT DEAL AT ONCE; once you find it. It will cause nausea beside the body will not retain it, thus wasting much of it later.
MISCELLANEOUS TIPS: WATER FROM AN OLD HAND PUMP z291 Many have seen those old water hand pumps but few REMEMBER how to pump. water must be added to the upper cup at the base of the crank. The reason: The addition of a cup or two of water will create the suction needed to pump the water. If you don't you will pump air and think it dry. Every morning or after a couple days without use, this same process must be repeated in order to 1! create the vacuum. So better leave a jug nearby which contains enough water to get the machine going.
8-06bxx4.txt - - - - v8-4-06 6pm dehumidify info study:25-26 downloads this is file-two of a two-file guide. split for small computers. continues... WATER PRESERVATION AT SEA TIPS z292 1! savING your body fluids are equally important as drinking water. 1 If you don't have water to drink, don't eat. Food needs water to be digested, especially protein. 2 In hot countries, avoid sweating as much as possible so you will avoid losing body water faster. 3 Dampen your clothes in the sea, wring them and wear them. Take advantage of any cooling wnnd. if a salt crust, remove it? 2! with a cloth. 4 Stay in the shadows as much as possible. 5 Sleep and rest as much. to minimum the loss of body fluid. 6 Prevent if you can sea sickness; there are pills for it. 7 Don't drink any alcohol, for it increases the dehydration 1! process. 8 If you smoke, you will increase your thirst. If you must smoke, make it in the evening or at night. 9 To remove the thirst temptation, suck on a button, it will make you salivate more.
FINDING WATER z293 a geodetic map will tell. Even so, be aware where water is most likely to be by knowing natures signs, habits. Almost any downhill country, be it a long slow valley or a deep gorge, will lead to it. These natural formations developed through water erosion and the sculpture tells the tale. z294 keep your eyes open for a change not only in terrain but in vegetation as well. If you see a crooked line of Willows or Willow like trees. z295 The mountain ahead is bare, with no water or greenery in sight. One side comes down steeply to a heavy rock formation; the other side slopes gently down to a valley and gently up oo another mountain. Head for the sloping side rather than the steep escarpment. It has a much slower run off larger surface area, and thus a greater likelihood of retained water.
COTTONWOODS z296 same purpose as willows. A chain of cottonwood indicates a river bed. if it's dry, examine the ground by one of the largest and most ancient of the cottonwoods. On the inside bank of the old river's curve, you will usually find a small pool of water. if ground moisture dig down, find seepage. z297 Remember, 1! it does not usually pay to dig for water. z288 With the amount of energy used, the moisture lost in sweat usually far exceeds that gained from the hole you have dug. z299 Any lush vegetation in arid terrain indicates water in one form or another. Birds such as Doves or Blackbirds, in flocks on the ground or quail in any quantity, are other signs of a water source nearby. z300 You will need 2 quarts (2 liters) a day under average conditions, but in the desert or during periods of heavy activity, this raises to 4 quarts (4 liters) or more per person per day.
IF WATER BY THE BARREL z301 If water is plentiful, as well as wood, make sure you always have some hot water boiling or close to the flame to keep it hot. REMEMBER, to sterilize water, it takes 10 minutes boiling no matter what some may say. Be safe.
THIRSTY z302 Drink when thirsty often and in small amounts. DON'T ATTEMPT TO RATION LIMITED QUANTITY OF WATER, LIFE WILL NOT BE PROLONGED. DON'T gulp water, swish first mouthful around mouth, swallow slowly, otherwise you will be sick and vomit this precious water. 1!
SURVIVAL TIME CHART NO WATER: Some examples of expected survival times are: 50'F (10'C) without water, with minimum exertion: life expectancy is 14 days, with 1 gallon water: 16 days. z303 120'F (49'C) - under same conditions: 3 days; with 1 gallon water: 4 days. Those are rough estimates for adults. For children and sick folks, the estimate is about 1/3 less. As you see, water is more important than food. Limit food and salt intake when water is limited, especially protein foods which absorb much more water from your body.
FINDING WATER and PURIFYING z304 Under hot, dry conditions where little possibility of finding water exists, the search for will cause greater loss than amount of water found. It is best to stay in shade, move as little as possible and wait for help. Back to Page 1
- wiki obtaining water, natural, unatural sources z305 http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Guide_to_Wilderness_Survival/Obtaining_Water If demand is not met, dehydration will result, leading to heat exhaustion, heatstroke and death within days. if Natural water is available: z306 often contains organisms that cause infectious disease, most notably Giardia lamblia. three ways to remove this threat and make natural water potable. 1 boiled over campfire or portable stove. At high altitudes, water boils at a lower temperature, so the boil must be maintained for several minutes to kill the microorganisms. 2 filtered, Water purifiers differ widely. If visibly dirty, pour through a clean cloth to remove large particles to avoid clogging the purifier. 3 Certain chemicals: dilute chlorine solution, antimicrobial additives. Some leave an unpleasant flavor that may be masked with powdered drink mix.
If natural water not available: z307 The evaporation still, evapo_still.jpg Water may also be obtained from the soil or from plant matter. 2! needs only four items: a shovel, a sturdy sheet of transparent plastic, a cup, and a piece of flexible plastic tubing long enough to reach the cup Begin by digging a hole with sloping sides in the shape of the sheet of plastic, but slightly smaller. Avoid digging in hot day-time, Sink cup in the middle of the hole. Place one end of the tube in the cup, run the other end to the outside of the hole, and place the sheet of plastic over. Weigh down the sides of the plastic sheet, or use stakes, and a stone on sheet over the cup below. z308 will produce continuously. The sheet creates a greenhouse effect in the still, accelerating the natural evaporation of water from the soil. When the water vapor hits the plastic sheet, it will condense and drip down into the cup. The tubing may be used to drink from the cup without disturbing the still. For added effectiveness, use a second cup to pour any available fluids, such as urine, greens, flesh, biomass, anything moist, into the pit. z309 1! vegetation-still is easier than digging-method, uses just a plastic bag. Gather vegetation: big leaves, cacti stripped of their thorns, etc. to mostly fill the bag. Mash it to break through the leaves' outer water-resistant cuticle. a greenhouse effect will cause water to evaporate from the leaves. It condenses on the plastic and run into the bottom of bag. will pick up chemicals from the leaves. a strong leafy flavor, may include toxins, make sure not to gather poisonous plants. filter with wood charcoal?
- 1-7.htm teachers links ! Survival Still + links z310 student will explain a simple way to desalinate water using solar energy. -html version of http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/ed/use/3_survivalstill.pdf. my notes: explain capillary water in soil and a solarstill: draws water from the soil. Heat is first added to a liquid to evaporate it and produce a gas or vapor, then heat is removed from the vapor to condense it back to a liquid. Soil always contains some moisture, but it is often in the form of capillary water. Capillarity is the force that exists between soil particles and water molecules. This force prevents all the water in the soil from draining down through the soil. The water that remains as a thin coating around the soil particles is known as capillary water. z311 A solar still allows this capillary water to be recovered and purified in the process. By creating a closed space with a transparent cover material, a greenhouse effect is produced which causes the temperature inside the space to rise. The trapped heat is absorbed by the soil and causes its moisture to vaporize. how to make a survival still in the desert. z312 http://www.desertusa.com/mag98/dec/stories/water.html http://www.ehow.com/how_12584_make-solar-still.html class descriptions of projects http://energywhiz.com/ , 1! a change from one phase of matter to another involves a gain or loss of energy. Definitions: Survival Still z313 capillary water - the thin film of water that coats the soil particles even in the driest soil condensation - a reduction to a denser form as from steam to water conduction - the movement of heat or cold through materials that are solid convection - the movement of heat or cold through air or liquids desalinization - process of removing salt and other chemicals and minerals from water evaporation - process of changing a liquid into vapor radiation - the way we receive heat from the sun each day. The energy is emitted in the form of waves/particles, and can move from one object to another without heating the area in between. solar still - a device that uses solar energy to evaporate a liquid thermal energy - energy that heats something - z314 Couran Cove luxery and nrg indepenece ideas mix, nothin is wasted. my notes: 350 rooms in Couran Cove, powered by liquefied petroleum gas or LPG, and solar energy. energy use 70% less than resorts of the same size. $1 million a year savings in operating costs. saved $1 million just to build it because of efficiency measures, plus 80% of its greenhouse gas emissions. LPG is ferried to the island and then stored in huge tanks. converted into electricity at the resorts power plant. Water from the resorts swimming pools helps cool the generators and, nturn, heats the pools.
individual solar panels in cabins providing hot water. Cardboard and paper is shredded for compost and organic waste from the resort's four restaurants goes to the worm farm. z315 We feed the worms diced up kitchen waste chopped up and thrown across the top of the beds, and after they've eaten that we can water the beds and get worm liquid out of the base of it as well as collect their casts, which is used as a soil conditioner and fertilizer. z316 All linens is laundered on the mainland to avoid putting detergent into the water treatment system. Chambermaids transport the supplies to rooms on bicycles. or battery-operated golf carts. All buildings structured to take advantage of sun and natural breeze, insulated with wool and electrical goods from lights to the fridge are energy efficient. family can view Each days use water, gas and electricity used on the tv. we've got four different types of worms. We've got the blue, the red, the tiger and the African night-Crawlers.
- comonchaka, chili: fog-fences (works only by bodies of water or fog?) PABLO OSSES, z317 The collectors look like oversized volleyball nets. fog passes through them, moisture is trapped in the mesh then combined into drops of water running into gutters, and then into pipes leading downhill to users. the world's largest fog collection project started, expanding to nearly 100 large collector nets, 11,000 liters of water a day to Chungungo, fishing village. z318 residents now depend once again on government water tankers. They say the fog collection project was good and they wish they had it back. It was a hurricane. and we didn't have the 'money' to repair them. STRIEKER: But some say the real problem was that after the aid agency finished with it, no one took responsibility for maintaining the project. The community never felt that it was their own, z319 The potential depends on fog, how much water it contains, the speed and direction of the wind: the right topography, like high hills. you can see here, in the mornings with all the fog, it could produce good results, OSSES: If you don't keep the system working, you don't have water.The comonchaka (ph) keeps rolling in, filled with potential, but it will not be captured without effort, or taken for granted. -end- a water source that's completely transparent? z320 natures most essential ingredients for light: water. on island of Tenner Reef: stands Charlie Paton's labor and vision, a greenhouse that converts seawater into fresh water in order to grow vegetables. z321 a darkened studio to best see the process work, he first demonstrates the material used on the roof of the greenhouse. It reflects green light that transmits red and blue light, which is used by plants for photosynthesis.
CHARLIE PATON, LIGHT WORKS: This is essentially our heat trap, so underneath here would be the plants, and the sun would be shining through, and we trap the heat in the upper canopy and let the light through for the plants below. And then what happens to the heat? z322 PATON: The heat gets ducted through the greenhouse and is used to evaporate more seawater, so we have a material which is a cardboard, and we run seawater down this, and if you blow hot air across it, it evaporates the seawater and so you get pure water vapor coming off the other side, as well as cool air. And the salt and the salt water just flow on down the tube and collect at the bottom. z323 SWEENEY: At the far end of his workshop, Charlie has developed the condensers which make the fresh water, but first he had to find the right kind of plastic surface which would condense the optimum amount of water. PATON: It's a trick thing. Water condenses on some surfaces much better than it does on others, and it's not obvious which are the best, and so we've been doing some experiments and tests with these different types of plastics and different coatings, to see which one gives us the most amount of water.
! z324 This is similar to the Namibian (UNINTELLIGIBLE) beetle's back. This is polythene, which is normally very waxy. This is a very sort of smooth and shiny surface, and we've coated it here with a material which makes it absorbent, which in fact reduces the surface tension. I can show you that. If I dip it in water, you will see that the coated part has become like blotting paper. It's completely wetted, whereas the water runs off in droplets off the uncoated part. SWEENEY:this is what you used to then. z325 PATON: That's what we're using to develop the correct coating for the plastic for the heat-exchanger. SWEENEY: The water-maker idea came from an experience he had while on a bus trip in Morocco 15 years ago. z326 Awaking from a nap, Charlie discovered the towel on which he had rested his head was soaking wet. The reason, condensation. The glass window had been chilled by the outside rain and had cooled the hot, humid air inside the bus below its dew point. This is turn caused droplets of water to form on the inside of the window. from his London studio, Charlie labored to develop his idea into a greenhouse which could produce fresh water from seawater. z327 SWEENEY: In a world where already 30 percent of the planet is desert and where most of its population lives close to the sea, the potential for alleviating hunger, overcoming drought and helping people make a living is indeed great. paton: the answers are there in nature all around us. It's fantastic. The more you investigate it, the more fantastic it becomes. -end- Aired February 9, 2003 - 10:00:00 ET edition of GLOBAL CHALLENGES. See you next time. TO ORDER VIDEOTAPES AND TRANSCRIPTS OF CNN INTERNATIONAL brain-washing, PLEASE CALL 800-CNN-NEWS OR www.fdch.com - z328 very contra2 what i knew. wiki - solaroof.com?living structures the SWG has contradictions that decrease the effectiveness of the total system. use the Bubble Tech, and give equal attention to 'solar controlled environment system' and the Liquid-Cooling process. see more projects implementing Sola-Roof concept, able to capture, use and reject the solar thermal 'waste' energy. is also a process for producing clean water in large quantity. 2!! z329 buildings overheat in the sun. normal first step to restore comfort is to open windows and any ventilation that will let out the warm air that is 'trapped' inside. The trouble: the mass of the building: all the material:walls, roof area, floors, construction, become overheated. cannot cool these building components directly. circulating cool air through the building takes away a little of the thermal gain - but usually the building will only really cool down at night - when the source of the overheating is removed and the air available is cooler. z330 The alternate way to cool the building is to directly cool the temperature of a transparent-Building-Envelope comprised of multiple layers of low wieght (almost no mass) transparent coverin materials. The Sola Roof process, uses a water-based Liquid-Cooling-process. When the building roof and walls, which form the Building Envelope, are cooled down directly to the dew point temperature relative to the humidity and air temperature of the atmosphere within the building, then the air will not overheat provided that there is a leaf-canopy within the building that will absorb the majority of the solar radiation. Due to the Transpiration-Condensation-mechanism. This Liquid-Cooling-process can control the interior humidity and temperature very exactly, no need for ventilation required in conventional buildings. DISCUSSION z331 how to 'collect solar heat' using Sola Roof, a Q+A section? for 'heat collection' is possible, but low value to using the bubbles as a solar heat collection system, not effective way to use the-system. z332 To provide capture of solar-thermal-gain it is much better to use the Liquid Solar process that operates by spaying (or distributes with preforated hose or other methods a 'cooling liquid' film over the inner skin. This cooling liquid can be the soap solution. With your large liquid thermal mass and since you are placing the soap liquid tank into the larger water reservoir plus using pipe coils within the water tank that the soap liquid will flow through - then you will have a very good set up to use the soap solution as the cooling liquid. Your soap solution will have the same temperature as the large water thermal mass. It will also transfer thermal gain to the larger thermal mass and so will be the 'working fluid' for the controlled environment system. z333 Circulating the cooling l iquid will result in cooling the inner skin to a dew point temperature and the plants in the greenhouse will produce transpiration that will condense on the inner skin. The plant transpiration convert the solar radiation to 'non-sensible' thermal energy that becomes sensibe, thermal energy that would warm the inner skin except that the cooling liquid is able to absorb this heat energy quickly and take it away to the large thermal mass system, where the temperature will change very slowly. Thus the inner skin will remain relatively cool and always 10C or so cooler than the air within the greenhouse.
The temperature will gradually increase by a few degrees over the whole day. In the Photo section of the Forum see Nelson Thermal Data?: -link- z334 Now at night the bubbles give up slowly this thermal energy that is collected during the day. The inner skin remains at the temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system because the soap solution is thermally coupled to the reservoir temperature with the soap liquid in the coils of flexible non-preforated agricultural drainage pipe. Then when the bubbles are renewed at intervals during a cold night the inner skin is always at the temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system, while the outer layers of bubbles near the exterior skin give up the stored thermal energy captured by the liquid cooling process. We do not need any 'hot' thermal storage. Cool to slightly warm is fine for even the coldest climate. Cool bubbles provide better insulation. Cool liquid collects the solar energy. Hot or warm liquid will not collect efficiently and also - most importantly - cannot condense the transpired moisture; cannot sustain the closed environment for growing with CO 2 enriched atmosphere; cannot regulate the temperature of the building within the limits for optimum plant growth; and will emmit thermal radiation onto the leaf canopy which is the opposite of a 'natural growing environment' where the plants see a cold sky. z335 All previous greenhouses show the plant leaf canopy a 'hot sky' because the radiative temperature of a glazing (or glazing and shade canopy system is not controlled as it is with the Sola Roof process. In fact attempts to provide 'shade' from the sun will normally reduce the Photosynthesis Active Radiation and increase the thermal radiation. The bubbles, when used for shading can remain cool because we can regenerate them from our soap solution which is at the cool temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system. But most importantly, during the winter or in hot sunny climate, the cooling liquid is also continuously chilling the inner skin and absorbing direct solar IR. The solar IR is absorbed about 20% by the thin film cooling and the bubble shading can absorb nearly 100 % while still eemaining at a cool temperature because of the dynamic process. I expect that most of you on this list will understand that water has a high capacitance and that our thermal transfer rate can handle the solar thermal gain rate and can operate as a steady state system if there is additionally an energy rejection mechanism to keep the Cooling Liquid at a constant cool temperature. z336 But the typical process is to use a Liquid Thermal Mass of a volume that will provide a temperature swing from day to night. Let me emphasize that only the liquid components of the thermal mass are able to provide the capacitance and transfer that is necessary. The solid components of the thermal mass are not actively engaged and have almost no interaction with the thermal process. Therefore making special effort to link up more solid thermal mass has no payback. You have the soil and ground or floor of the greenhouse and I would not spend (waste money to link to rock beds, soil or subsoil, or build any massive structural elements into the greenhouse unless it is part of a normal footing, floor or wall system that you would have in any case. Placing pipes into such subsoil or footings can be a big problem, because leaks are difficult to find or repare. z337 I say this after building a 12,000 foot flooded rock bed floor as a thermal mass in the Calgary project that had continuous problems with leakage. I love the shallow pond growing systems that provide all the thermal mass that a project could need. Liquid thermal mass in fabric tubing below benches is a good system. Below grade reservoirs and tower tanks are also an option. Putting the soap tank within another tank and using flexible fabric tanks is also practical and gives an immediate thermal exchange. I mostly use the the term 'thermal' rather than 'heat' so that we can get used to the idea of cool running systems that work just fine. Our surroundings need to be cool because we are 'hot bodies' - that is part of our synergy with the plants. They have a cooler temperature. How unlikely it would be if the plants in a multi canopy forest had a higher temperature then the animals! The plants themselves live in a relatively cool environment and are champions of rejecting waste thermal energy so that they and the atmosphere around them will not overheat. z338 Biosystems and Biomimicry technology will run cool - while all our previous engineering concepts are dominated by high temperature and pressure. That is machine technology - fire, steam, the heat of a nucear reation - none of those concepts have a place in a biomimicry technology. Living systems operate at ambient temperature and humidity. This is why the combimation of solar, plants and cold water resources is so important. Cold water is as important to ambient energy systems as is solar radiation. z339 in Sola Roof we use these concepts. the SWG has contradictions that decrease the effectiveness of the total system. We have a few people using the Bubble Tech and it is now a good time to give equal attention to the 'solar controlled environment system' and the Liquid Cooling process which is well integrated with the Bubble Tech system and I would like to see more projects that are implementing this important aspect of the Sola Roof concept so that our projects are able to capture, use and reject the solar thermal 'waste' energy. This is important because it also is a process for producing clean water in large quantity.
I hope that this shows how Sola Roof is a total concept for 'living structures'. -Rick trendmapper.com/charts/pages/solaroof-23062005-2873.html
- z340 2-12b.htm technical description + solaroof.org\gallery.htm link Moderating the interior environment is a Liquid Thermal Mass system, using a water based Soap Solution reservoir, which may be thermally linked to a larger water thermal mass within the building and/or external to the building. The Soap Solution is pumped into the roof and wall Cavity Space of the Building Envelope. There, the Soap Solution is distributed as a Liquid Film? that flows over the Inner Cover? of the Building Envelope Sola Fabric where it absorbs solar energy gain from within the structure. when reading this tech nfo use Gallery-Album and Structure-Tech section The Liquid Solar Tech process actively controls the internal building environment, both cooling and dehumidifying so as to prevent overheating during the mid day hours. During winter days, this process, also referred to a Liquid Cooling, will capture Solar Thermal? gain and remove this energy to storage in the Liquid Thermal Mass. z341 Mixing a surfactant concentrate into solution with water forms the Soap Solution which is the Working Fluid? of the Liquid Solar process. The Soap Solution, interacting in thermal exchange with the Liquid Thermal Mass, is pumped to the envelope of the building where, in the Cavity Space, it can be distributed for Liquid Cooling or used to generate high-expansion bubbles that completely fill the roof and/or wall Cavity Space. Thus, the glazing envelope is not a single thin sheet material, poorly shielding the interior from extreme outside climates, but rather is a thick envelope having a cavity space at times filled soap bubbles, like cells, hundreds of layers deep, providing cooling or warmth as may be required. During the day, insulating and shading may be obtained by generating bubbles that fill the roof cavity, which process we call Bubble Tech. This same process used at night has an insulation and (low-temperature thermal energy "heat" distribution function that utilizes the stored energy in our Liquid Thermal Mass System. z342 good list of projects 7-8th grade, 2! loosens mind to ideas, http://www.scienceproject.com/projects/index/intermed.asp 5. Pendulums- how can a period of a pendulum be increased? 9. Solar Furnace 16. How do compression and tension make things strong? 20. How can the strength of light be measured?- the effect on degradable materials 21. Which materials can be charged with static electricity?23. What affects light reflection?- refraction and diffraction of light? 26. Electric Motors- principles and factors effecting their efficiency 35. How is paint affected by temperature changes?- Elasticity of rubber; effect of glue. 44. Can water be magnetized? XX. A Projector (Make a slide projector 110. How is paint affected by temperature changes?111. How does temperature affect the elasticity of rubber? 112. How does temperature affect the strength or adherence of glue? 120. Effect of moisture on electrical resistance 130. Heat convection-131. Heat radiation-132. Heat conduction 5. Dew formation- how much is formed on a square meter for a period of time; account for variations8. Evaporation- Effect of temperature, wind, or humidity on the rate of evaporation?2! 10. Heat Retention- does fresh water hold heat longer than salt water? How does water compare to land and what effect does this have on the weather? What factors affect the cooling of land?11. Sunlight- how do different surfaces affect the amount of sunlight reflected and absorbed? Design a method of measuring how much sunshine is available each day.12. Humidity- can you collect the amounts of water in the air at different temperatures?15. Effects of Humidity- what happens to hair during periods of changing humidity? How does human hair compare to that of other animals? How do other materials compare in expansion and contraction. 3. Chemical reactions that produce energy or that require energy5. Effects of sunlight on rubber, ink, paper6. Effects of increased concentrations on the rate of chemical reactions7. Compare the PH levels in mouths of various animals and humans at different times in the day 8. Compare the surface tension of various liquids 9. Dealing with chemical spills from industry 10. Analyzing snow and rain for pollutants; samples from different locations11. Effects of temperature on density of gasescoming soon+ 12. Effects of salt and other contaminants on rate of rusting 13. Growing crystals- factors that affect the rate and the size14. Can you obtain water from ink, vinegar, milk?15. What effects do different amounts of exercise have on the production of carbon dioxide in humans?16. Analyze soil samples for their components, ability to hold moisture, fertility and PH17. Does the amount of particle pollution vary with distance from a road, with location, with height. Determine types of particles found in pollution fallout 18. Catalysts- how they work and why; commercial applicants and problems24. How to make PH indicator using cabbage? 25. How Yogurt is made? Is it a chemical or biochemical reaction? 26. Effects of temperature on viscosity of oil (Quick 27. Chemical reactions coming soon+ 28. Brownian movement coming soon+ 29. Making salt water potable, removal of pollutants 30. Fruit Battery (Can you make electricity from fruits and chemicals?
BOTANY/ BIOLOGY z343 1. Germination - how monocots and dicots differ - the effects of heat, light, carbon dioxide, PH level, etc. on germination rate2. Photosynthesis - factors affecting the rate of photosynthesis (temperature, light intensity, water, carbon dioxide - part of light spectrum used in photosynthesis 3. Leaf - do the numbers and sizes of stomata vary with different plants - what happens if stomata are covered and why 10. The preferred PH level in the soil for various plantscoming soon+ 11. Determine the effects of various nutrients on plant growth 12. How does the amount of water affect plant growth? 13. How does the hours of sunlight affect the plant growth? 14. How does the strength of weed killer affect the plant growth? 15. How does the temperature affect the plant growth? 16. How do pollutants affect the plant growth? 17. How does PH level affect the plant growth? 18. Can plants live without Carbon Dioxide? 19. Can plants live without Oxygen? 20. What percentage of various plants are water? 21. Roots - how much water is used by different plants?22. Roots - what is the effect of temperature, sunlight, etc., on the use of water (transpiration23. Roots - how do different types of soils affect the ability of roots to anchor plants? 24. Roots - what factors encourage root growth and what is the effect of water, oxygen, soil type, minerals on root growth? 25. What is the effect of acid rain on plant growth? coming soon+ 30. What conditions are favorable for: -fungus growth- E.G. yeast, mold, mildew diseases ? 31. What conditions are favorable for: -mushroom production? 47. Field Studies -types of bacteria found on the body.48. Field Studies -types of bacteria found in soil of different types 100. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting Blood Pressure 101. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting Heartbeat Rate 102. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting the rate of breathing 103. Circulatory System - Is there any relation between the blood pressure and the rate of heartbeat? 201. Make a Model of Plant or Animal cell. -pods! 1! 202. How big are the plant cells? 103. How big is a drop of water? Factors affecting the size of a drop in water based solutions.
- awg.htm: list of water subpumps + solar powered parts z344 Shurflo SubPump Lower Cost and features: Longer life, higher efficiency, smaller and lighter weight, easier to rebuild, all plastic construction prevents problems caused by minerals in water. now only 6 lbs. Submersible DC Motor, Brushless -Pump Controller - An electronic device which varies the voltage and current of a PV array to match the needs of an array-direct pump. Sling Pumps Pump water from streams without power Use the force of your river or creek to pump up to 4000 gallons per day and up to 82' of head. The force of the flowing water rotates the anchored pump and pushes air and water through the feeder hose into your storage tank. No gasoline or electricity required! Only one moving part. Also great for aerating fish ponds because pumped mixture is half water half air. The Guardian: Water Powered Sump Pump Eliminate basement flooding without electricity! This unique pump uses standard water pressure to keep your basement dry even during a power failure. more... - z345 bubbletech.htm uses equipment called Bubble Generators as the earth was? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof Bubble Tech uses equipment called Bubble Generators which are positioned within the Cavity Space formed by the double layer transparent roof and/or wall. The Bubble Generators blow bubbles from a Soap Solution that rapidly fill the Cavity Space to dynamically control the building envelope temperature, insulation property, and radiation transmission and reflection. There are two basic modes of use: z346 Bubble Shading? and Dynamic Cooling? on Summer Days? and in Hot Climates The liquid bubbles provide hundreds of layers of bubbles of about 6 mm (1/4 inch) diameter since a typical roof would be one meter thick. This provides a shade that is similar to cloud cover and absorbs the invisible heat spectrum of the sun. The advantage is cool daylight under the transparent roof that greatly reduces stress and improves productivity and comfort in the controlled environment space. z347 Bubble Insulating and Dynamic Heating? on Winter Nights? and in Cold Climates? The liquid bubbles provide a thick blanket of insulation at night that is able to reduce the heat loss by a factor of ten times as compared to standard double polyethylene covered greenhouses and is about 15 times improvement over a single glass covered greenhouse. The renewal of the bubbles brings the stored solar gain from the Liquid Thermal Mass system to the building envelope so that no conventional heating is required inside the Solar Controlled Environment space during cold nights.
In both cases the same process is used: Bubble Generation Bubble Regeneration Bubble Destruction z348 The proper function of bubble generation, regeneration and destruction give complete control over the properties of the Sola Roof and together with the Liquid Solar process of climate control the Bubble Technology can produce ideal environments for growing plants and housing animals and providing healthy living, working and recreational spaces. The Sola Roof processes are very dynamic and can be constantly monitored to provide automated response to the changes in the outside weather conditions. system can capture solar thermal gain during the day, store it in the liquid thermal mass, and then distribute this low temperature energy throughout the building envelope at night to eliminate the need for conventional heating of the interior space. - z349 eco.htm: eco sphere project: concept, to rebalance with nature The purpose of Eco Sphere is to be an icon that will represent a new era in which our technology serves and supports life; a striking example of our capacity to rebalance with nature and BUILD a sustainable future. - monol.htm www.monolithicdome.com news homes sales info z350 Extract water from air. Airwell concept, using domes, proven at university level. Investors Needed. Contact Edward Dilley at Tilted Planet Productions, PO Box 10965, Zephyr Cove, NV 89448. 702-588-4147. TiltPlanet@aol.com http://www.monolithic.com/roundup/pdfs/199807l.pdf:
The Airform, clamp straps, and rebar hangers you get from us. Everything else you can get locally. We have developed a small line of concrete pumps the builder may want to get from us. descriptions features personals - sola.htm: list of projects plans or experimental work z351 This is the place to list your project plan or experimental work: 1. Lively Up Greenhouse - built by Ross Kat Elliott - a HomeStead? project using a Tunnel Structure. 2. Wrentham Solar Bubble Build -by HarveyRayner - This is a Tunnel Structure 3. Post Tsunami Visions - Global Vision 2000 network - to develop a new pattern for sustainable renewal - our first project: Sri Lanka Vision. 4. Green Church Initiative - by Richard Nelson - this is an initiative to see Green Churches built as an expression of faith in action 5. Open Source Ecology - Backyard office sustainable house demonstrator, featuring a closed loop water system and Sola Roof technology 6. Almeria Project - commercial greenhouse demonstration project in Almeria, Spain featuring a closed water systems and cooling technology using Sola Roof technology 7. Eco Sphere Project - a tensegrity structure of spherical or egg shape that will demonstration Closed Ecological Life Support Systems (CELSS) featuring a self contained pond and biomass system. 8. Proyecto Canarias Inicio - the Canaries Project - self reliance in food, water and energy for Tenerife and other Islands of the Canaries. 9. Eco Village Ghana - initiative of the Master Drummers of Africa - a new pattern for Eco Living in harmony with the beat of life. 10. Oil From Algae a group with the purpose of developing integral Mass Algae Culture systems as an option for most Sola Roof projects. 11. No Name Yet a project to develop designs and implement them for SolaRoof residential space in a desert environment. 12. X Tent a project to develop designs and implement them for SolaRoof portable and nomadic structures.
- - 7-06\26\amish z352 main.htm main page of randallpersing.com - amish pics index.htm list of galleries by subject winter.htm winter gallery amish pics
- - 7-06\26\dewpond z353 goo1.htm + b + c Results 1 - 30 of about 557 for dewpond project 1-2.htm dewponds at sussex nfo, fact?: Although dew and mist do contribute a small amount of water, the vast amount comes from rainfall. The South Downs are made of porous chalk so, in order to hold water a layer of non-porous, impervious clay is 'puddled' into a chalk depression. A modern tecnique for restoring Dew Ponds is to put a liner underneath the clay. The liner holds the water should the clay crack during hot and dry weather.
- - 7-06\26\dome -not in dhu7-06h.zip try my\7-06\zips z354 goo3.htm: Results 1 - 10 of about 529,000 for airwell project 2-2.htm ! fairly useful nfo: run car on water, airwell kit 34$ why and tips 3-1.htm: www.airwellinc.com This Airwell renders up to seven pints, $80 airwell.htm PayPal for $39.99 at biohome website biohome.htm main page kits video pics of foam domes chronos3.html odd sci links + George Campbell 'How to Get Pure Drinking Water from the Sun', Popular Mechanics, April 1983, pp. 98, 106, 170 mdom.htm ! good tour of cement? domes + nfo monolithicdome.com main page try re-tribe: ret galeeb.blogspot.com bankbashers.blogspot.com blog\6-06 foamredy.htm biohome foam-dome pics practicl.htm Basic Components of the biohome pics! preorder.htm biohome parts prices video survival.htm biohome self powered techfile.htm biohome details airwell-kit $40 waterwin.htm biohome window nfo
- - z355 7-06\26\scip - sciperio.com christian? sci-studies for Laser-Photonics Digital-Printing Water-Technology Biotechnology Airships Antenna bio-ov.htm: Biotechnology Overview: preventative, predictive, and curative tools and processes for healthy living. focused on these projects: 1 Predictive Rare-Event Cancer and Biological Warfare Agent Detection System 2 vivo + in vitro tools, technologies, materials, procedures 4 regenerative medicine + engineering of custom tissue systems, on demand. real-time. bio-red.htm: Bio-RED Process z356 Sciperio is developing an advanced monodisperse-layer cellular deposition and imaging system specifically designed to recognize rare-event cancer cells and biological warfare agents in fluidic media. Biotech.htm nology Overview same as bio-ov.htm invivo-bat.htm: The Invivo BAT development team's aims are to make a significant contribution towards the development of curative engineered tissue constructs (ETC's) pics overview.htm z357 in materials, chemistry, computational fluid dynamics (CFD), and manufacturing can be applied to water technologies to make large, cost-effective improvements in water quality and treatment. We are focused on: Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination - Developing scalable, biomimetic, cost-effective methods that approach near 100% water recovery using in part advanced energy efficient reverse-osmosis techniques for high water throughputs and high water recovery ratios. Water Extraction - Saline Agricultur - z358 aw2.htm ! Water from Air, Water Extraction Technologies: Water from Air Sciperio.com is adds liquid desiccant technology to the challenge of energy-efficient water harvesting from air. On-site water harvesting addresses the issue of distribution, the most difficult challenge. systems, such as reverse osmosis, work if source+use are near to one another. being able to extract water from air offers advantage, If continuously harvested, storage can be reduced. and meenz living in places where its scarce or nonexistent. water in the vapor phase meenz a potable water supply anywhere, a clear logistical advantage for soldiers, community workers, healthcare officials, and others in the field . Under DARPA funding, the proposed work at Sciperio, Mechatronic Solutions Inc and Spectra Watermakers seeks to develop a new approach... z359 based on liquid-desiccant and advanced-energy-recovery-RO technologies. It provides clear energy efficiency advantages over current state-of-the-art water-from-air systems, and can be used to produce water under ambient air conditions (e.g., hot and dry in which current systems are incapable of producing condensed water from air. For purposes of water harvesting, we are using liquid desiccants to absorb water vapor from the air. z360 Liquid desiccants have at least 2 major advantages over solid desiccants: 1. Liquid desiccants have significantly smaller absorption-evaporation cycle hysteresis characteristics than the adsorption-desorption cycle of conventional solid desiccants. This means that the energy losses per hydration-dehydration process cycle are smaller for liquid desiccants than they are for typical solid desiccants. A water-from-air system based on the application of liquid desiccants is inherently more energy efficient than a system based on conventional solid desiccant surfaces. 2. Liquid desiccants have a much higher relative water mass uptake capacity than conventional solid desiccants. Upon dissolution, for example, a LiCl ion pair generates two hydration shells comprised of a total of 26 water molecules (e.g., 2 moles of water per molar equivalent of dissolved solute. Only a few water molecules may be condensed and held within a traditional solid desiccant crystallite. As a result, liquid desiccants exhibit a 15-100 fold mass uptake advantage over traditional solid desiccants as shown in the figure below. This means that liquid desiccant-based water-from-air systems, in principle, will be lighter and more compact than comparable systems based on traditional solid state adsorbents. z361 Hygroscopic salts, like LiCl, make excellent liquid desiccants. The free energy of hydration, ?G hyd, is so large for such salts that, upon exposure to typical ambient room air, they dissolve in their own waters of hydration. Figure 5 represents a timed-sequence series of photographs, shot at Sciperio, showing the dissolution of solid LiCl crystals and the formation of a desiccant solution due to water vapor extraction from a flowing air stream (70 oF / 50% RH, 0.5 standard L/min flow rate: Click on the picture for a larger version. Below is an example of the water collection in our liquid desiccant solutions as a function of time at 50% relative humidity. z362 Potable water is produced by extracting solvent water from the desiccant solution, which is achieved in the proposed system through the use of an evaporation/condensation cycle The primary functional elements of the Evaporator/Condenser Module being built are liquid desiccant reservoir; closed loop scavenger air plenum; an air-to-liquid water vapor mass exchanger; a heat exchanger / water vapor condenser stage; a heat pump which is used to heat liquid desiccant in the evaporator stage and cool water vapor in the condenser stage; and a produced water collection reservoir. z363 Simply put, the key advantage of a liquid desiccant cooling system (versus a pure refrigeration-type lies in the fact that water vapor may be extracted from the process air stream without first removing the sensible heat. Liquid desiccant cooling systems are beginning to become popular for humidity control and HVAC applications in the US and internationally because it is only the latent heat of vaporization for condensed/extracted water that must be managed. We are applying the application of proven liquid desiccant technology to the challenge of energy-efficient water harvesting from air. As with building air-handling applications, this approach has the immediate advantage of eliminating the need to remove sensible heat from a process air stream. - z364 !? Saline Agriculture Sciperio.com, problem of saltwater irrigation on a genetic level. Water purification, reclamation and desalination are important approaches to the looming water crisis, but not the only ones. With 80% of the water used for agriculture, another approach to the efficient use of water is by using saltwater and/or brine for agriculture irrigation. 20% of the world's cultivated land is affected by salinity + will worsen. a answer: Exploring Salt Tolerance Mechanisms While there are plants, such as mangrove, which can survive and even thrive in saline soils. z365 their mechanisms of salt tolerance have been associated with general plant stress, the mechanisms poorly understood. a battery of stress response genes are involved, many are common to most stress responses. a combinatorial genomics approach with high transfection efficiencies to study salt-tolerant plants or non-plant organisms as a source of novel genes and pathways related to salinity and other stress tolerance.
In essence, we are trying to make the plants survive under saline conditions, and then implement this knowledge across multiple-scale agricultural applications. It has remarkable potential. methods to understand salt tolerance for saline agriculture, the largest consumer of water. - a think-backward answer, like conserving water is to making it. - z366 The global Water crisis - see comments at start of this file. Access to water and efficient, a challenges of the 21st century. water-f.htm: is wa2.htm with pics! water-r.htm: Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination solar house, best pics!Using advanced reverse osmosis and bimimetic applications of tech-know near 100% water recovery. Most reverse osmosis (RO) only 30%. Sciperio is co-developing with Spectra-Watermakers near 100% water recovery. modeled on existing systems found in nature. z367 The Solar Waterhouse Current reclamation methods produce residual brine that is often discarded as an acceptable by-product (see rexresearch.com\ airwell patents). Our solar waterhouse is a greenhouse-like structure with microlens arrays on glass panels to help evaporate water from the concentrated brine, capturing that "last gallon" of water. this working with other methods, can reach near 100% water recovery. z368 The solar waterhouse is also biomimetically modeled to include an engineered outer surface. It's a proven, effective design found in nature, and represents just another way Sciperio brings fresh approaches to new challenges. An illustration of the solar waterhouse concept. Advanced Reverse Osmosis We have formed a strategic partnership with Spectra Watermakers to co-develop a high throughput, high water recovery reverse-osmosis (RO) system. The advanced RO system features a unique two-stage pumping and pressurizing system. The first stage is a simple feed pump which supplies raw water flow and pressure for prefiltration, circulation, and the driving energy for the second stage, the Clark Pump. z369 The Clark Pump is a unique pressure intensifier that uses two opposing cylinders and pistons that share a single rod. -got pic. Water pressure from the small feed pump is used by one of the cylinders to make the other pressurize and circulate the saltwater through the reverse osmosis membrane. Pressurization is achieved when the rod, as it is forced into a cylinder, displaces water in the closed loop circuit. The pressure instantly builds to the point where the displaced volume of water is forced out of the membrane as the fresh product. When a driving cylinder's piston touches the base, the process is instantly reversed. Pressurization is almost continuous. There is no energy-wasting "back stroke" as in other systems and no need for gears or crank shafts that need oil and servicing. The energy recovery system takes advantage of stored energy in the high pressure reject water that is typically wasted. The pressurized reject water is re-circulated to the back side of the piston to aid the next stroke. A double-acting energy recovery system recovers energy entrained in the brine stream to help or boost the high pressure pump in conjunction with the feed water pressure pump in both cycles. We are also performing a systems study of how the RO unit can be powered via renewable energy resources. The inner workings of the advanced RO pump. The advanced RO system being co-developed with SpectraWatermakers has or will have the following features: Unique energy recovery approach Pressure-amplifying Clark Pump Low pressure pumps: a 40-60 psi external feed pump with a 10:1 internal pressure amplification ratio leading to a 400-600 psi internal pressure which will lead to lower capital equipment expense Low energy consumption rate 3WHr/L (70%-80% less than traditional RO units) using seawater as the water source , Ultra-quiet Integrated feed pump and energy recovery/pressure amplifier functions Highly scalable and modular design (10,000-1,000,000 gallons/day applications) , Low manufacturing costs ,No external motive unit ,High reliability , Good operational efficiency z370 Advanced RO For Distributed Treatment It is evident that the latest generation of technology is changing the landscape of distributed energy. Small-scale power generation (usually less than 50 megawatt capacity) near the load provides more economic, a less polluting power supply and management options for energy customers and utilities over conventional central generation. A major driver for distributed and modular power is techno-economic. For example, rapid advances in wind, photovoltaic and solar-thermal power technologies, have significantly reduced the cost of these renewable power sources. We envisage that small-scale water distribution will also provide more economic and management options for water customers and utilities than conventional central water distribution, especially when amalgamated with on-going distributed energy advances. Water without question is one of our most consequential shared resources, but faces severe threats from both natural and human causes. These threats include destruction of water supply, treatment, or distribution systems through accidents, terrorism, or force majeure, as well as insufficient supplies of fresh water due to pollution, ineffective management, or excessive demand. Such threats have the potential to significantly limit economic growth, lead to widespread health concerns, and inflame a growing number of regional conflicts. However, water generation, water treatment, and distributed water have not been an area of basic research and innovation since it is believed that water is a mature technology. Understanding the kinetics and energetics of desalting at the RO membrane level including the effects of hydrophilicity, porosity, surface chemistry, and performing active control of the ionic separation surface are anticipated to collectively improve the water flux, decrease energy consumption, overcome bio-fouling, and provide sizeable improvements in our ability for in-line processing of chemical and biological contaminants in the water stream. The concept of distributed water is driving much of our co-development research with SpectraWatermakers on advanced RO systems that are energy efficient and modular.
wat1.htm same water.htm Water Technology Overview, Sciperio.com z371 Today's world population is approximately 6.1 billion people and growing.8 billion By 2050, we meet the scarcity of water using a three-pronged approach. We are focused on: Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination - reverse-osmosis Water Extraction - Using liquid desiccant processes for maximize water extraction density atleast more efficient than standard refrigeration. Saline Agriculture - We are beginning to explore the idea of a combinatorial genomics approach with high transfection efficiencies to study salt tolerant plants or non-plant organisms as a source of novel genes and pathways related to salinity and other stress tolerance Source: satanic United Nations, World Population Prospects, 1998 Revision and de-population plans. - - best-of-show ! see 3brief - 4main\not dew related, but good reasons to dew. quickly: z372 - other dirz of 7-06 4\UN-DVDS TXT 2,814 anti-un conspiracy videos infowars.com 6\AF-XANGA TXT 11,629 xanga.com africa visits for galeeb.blogspot.com 6-2\HOST-OOG TXT 1,060 oraclesofgod.org scripture-music, web-hosting aid 7\GULAGS4U TXT 1,789 google.com gulags in america. esther. genocide. Total files listed: 146 file(s 4,062,853 bytes 56 dir(s dhu706ht.zip - 1.4mb also contains 5 gifs for h2o2 production. - - end of 4main -
- - 5verse: -using z1 to z372 to sort this nfo any-way-you-want. verse-mix ideas:
2do: use verses to collect principles of dehumidifiers, then best2build by. -see dhu8-x2.txt,
2do: verses pointing to what i want more of to dew-study eg.refridgerant -see dwn85-06.txt
- - xx1-xx7: are my z-mixes test? paused at..?
ooi= order of importance -see x-vizn. skip h202 production. go to dehumidifer concepts 1! 2! 3!
dhu8-xx2.txt - - - - v8-7-06 7pm, dew ideas: find-water , dehumidifier nfo. plans: to show dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use. use what water remains to find-sort nfo, start a drip.
z1 to z372 helps find nfo... use it. xx1 to xx6 are z's sorted different ways.
xx1: z's with 1! 2! 3! - first time reading xx2: z's from all to best - identify all nfo b4 choosing xx3: z's to download next - parts that got my attention xx4: z's 4 field use, now! - best 2 survive on. print. xx5: doom - just a warning: get drip'n xx6: key-word z's - comes2mind when sorting xx7: related - pics and news to stir-you
xx1 -1! take with you, 2! my kind of detailed talk, 3! related+worth knowing xx2 :about dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use xx3 better stuff: plan new downloads based on nfo found so far xx4 bind z's that fit you : resources at hand, sim2 1! of xx1, but complete xx5 fitn xx4 n2 my-situ: 6-06\x-vizn.txt retribe-blogspot.com, time-set4doom xx6 z's related to words-bank z4, the 5 1!'s: i begin to see new sorts 4 nfo xx7 related helps,nfo, images?: z112-113, doom:z146-148+z2-3, sim2 3! of xx1
- start -
xx1 verses ordered by 1marks grading v6-31-06(date because ooi changes)z11?: 1! take with you , 2! my kind of detailed talk, 3! related+worth knowing
xx2 v8-8-06, 6am put new dhu8-xx2.txt update here: (inside 8-06axx4.txt)
- - xx2: about dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use
set 1: list all the find-water z's set 2: list the best drip-now z's - for xx4 to choose from.
m = methods: m1: -read from z1 to z372 m2: -use xx1 for set 1, then for set 2 m3: -do so from xx3: z's to download next m4: -do so from xx6: key-word z's m5: -do so from xx7: best pics and warnings
eg:z15-z18 z23, z24, 7-06\dew5-06.zip, z28:*.*, z29-33:review=best of show,
-start- use the -- to jump to set 2
-- set 1: list all the find-water z's:
- m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: everthing related.
results: see z3
- m2: -from xx1: parts for set 1: -the focus: all finding-water nfo.
from xx1: z11:version 6-31-06: 1!take 2!detailed 3!related remove ones not fit for set 1 1!: z40:poly, z71:coils, z74:roto, z75:comp, z76:s-how, z78:salt, z89:act, z91:first+heat, z92:parts, z93:awg, z96:poor links, z136:sure, z138:clay, z146:focus, z149:dead-air, z150:ensol+cold, z166:hot, z176:copper+z40,z181,z194:sick, z185:germs, z188:trail, z189:low, z194:boil?, z197:help me collect water!, z218:granite, z222:dig, z223:night, z241:all-veg, z250:rapid, z251:works, z254:seal, z260-265:lamp,z284:scarce, z285:skin, z291-309:vacuum, z292:saving + alcohol, z297:not pay, z302:swish, z309:easier than dig, z312:links+energy matter, z343:copy pods -plans know how to get water, 2!: z15:dst dhu, z16:heat-pipe, z17:refridge, z19:h2o2 formula, z23:brief survival 2do + 2many, z24:bubble tech , z31 related, z40:salt-metals, z58:icemak, z68:h2o2 thermody, z70:how dhu works-repairclinic.com, z72:all about dhu, z87:dhu links, z101:awg-pics, z136:still details + staying, z143:better from air?, z156:foot swell, z158:millennium-ark.com, z164:muddy, z166:chlor lime, z170:boil, z196:know target area, z200:below surface, z201:cover yourself, z202:alcohol, z203:slugish, z204:dew, z205:dig up cool stones, z207:the radiator, z210:dig 9' away, z218:canyon wall sweats, z227:inside the tree, z229:mud fly, z231:fly before dusk, z236:reptiles, z237:roots branches, z238:gush plant cut 24hr, z240:sap=laytex poison darts, z243:break stalk, z247:fault, z250:from salt-waters, z275:slush refrid, z288:30'f diff, z292:wear damp, z307:4item still, z328:sola -clean water in lardge quantity, z342:101 projects to loosen mind+ 8.evaporation+, 3!: z14:h202 intro, z20:cpd training courses + objectives, z27:scams? run car on water + airwell-kit,
-end
yes, these 'do' help in the choosing for xx4:
- m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt - m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words
see xx6: (then take out parts 'for' this xx2\set 1
(says water-words so far: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow etc..) (see z4 word-bank for more)
-end
- m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 1:
-end -end of set 1
-- set 2: list the best drip-now z's - for xx4 to choose from.
m = methods: - m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: can i use it? my resources? - m2: -from xx1: parts for set 2: -the focus: finding water, best-nfo. - m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt - m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words - m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 2:
eg:z15-z18 z23, z24, 7-06\dew5-06.zip, z28:*.*, z29-33:review=best of show,
-start- use set 1, only best parts, then use at xx4: field-uses print
- m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: everthing related,
results: from z3, omit parts not fit for set 2, use the below as you cut 8-06axx4.txt, repaste this xx2 as updated.
z10:july 2006,25-26th search-words used: dehumidifier principle, + vortex, water survival condense, +? dew collect project air build, dewpond project, choose for set 2: z3 nfo-list of z's (you are reading it) z4 word-bank
z15-35: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics, best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel ( 3brief htms are replaced with z's in dhu8, see dhu7 )
z15-18: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics list z23-24: 3biref of htm: water survival condense, dew collect project air build z26-28: 3brief of htm: dewpond biohome+airwell? sciperio=cancer+water-get z29: 3brief best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel z31-34: 3brief b.o.s: water survival condense, dew collect project air build
z328-348: z328 solaroof concept, overheat, process, soap solution, circulating, z335 hot-sky, z336 more thermass has no payback!, z337 floodeded rock bed, z338 biomimicry, z339 swg contradictions, z340 solarooof tech nfo: bubble description, gallery, how liquid thermomass system (lts) bubs work, z342 scienceproject.com selected, z344 list of subpump stuff, z345 groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof bubl-tec generators shading cooling, dynamic control,
z349-50 eco sphere project, bio dome, z351 links to projects using sola dome, z352 amish, z353-354 dewpond + airwell?, z355- sciperio cancer studies,
! z357-371: z357 sciperio.com + desal method, z358 liquid disciccants, z359 advanced ro, z360 advantages over solid disciccants, z361 hydroscopic salts, z362 ! primary elements stages of, z363 key advantages, z364 genetic changes to make agriculture plants salt tolerant, z366 water:crisis, recovery %, z367 solar waterhouse = 100%, z368 surface ro 2stage, z369 the clark pump !, z370 advanced ro membranes?, z371 overview of desal efforts, z372 not dew related but good reason too: gulags in america, oraclesofgod.org, africa xanga.com, anti-un dvds, end of dhu7-06.txt\4main
-end - m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt - m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words
see xx6: (then take out parts 'for' this xx2\set 2
(says water-words so far: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow etc..) (see z4 word-bank for more)
-end
- m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 2:
-end -end of set 2 -end of xx2
- xx3 get more on the curious ones: plan downloads based on previous catches:
z4 word-bank stirs mind + biomimicry = a call to run cool, see x6(th5 1!), links:z5-z9 lists all? found in this zip + z96-99(purchaseable), z13 germano.htm more of + links, z21+130:1-2.htm, z24:awg.htm -subpumps? + sola.htm links!, z27:2-2.htm -see 7-06\dome.zip, z34:chronos.htm:alternate nrg, cements mixes nfo\clay-mix.txt? sealants tile-body 7-06\potrz706.zip z36, z70 links, z75pipe, types:z80-85, z93:humidifier -study the opposite first?, hand-pumped purifiers:links:z140, why not hand or foot-powered dehumidifires? refridgerators? vortex-tubes, z158:millennium-ark.com?, survival stills links:z312, z314:Couran Cove, patons desalinator?cnn-news:z320-327, bubble-tech sola-roof z328-341 and links:z351, mind-stir:z342, scams?:z354, sciperio.com:z357-363, clark pump:z369, srch z4 words on internet-google.com?,z260:OIL:LAMP-damp power?, z16 heat-pipe principle, -see 5versex3.txt
-
xx4 see xx2, bunch verses related to your reach: resources at hand, sim2 1! of x1 = can\must do\know now, least proccessing required, as is, go with the designs that are, why build a home? look closer at natures patterns, fit in, homestead may already be built!, do what they? do: z23, cements mixes nfo\clay-mix.txt? sealants tile-body 7-06\potrz706.zip z36, z70-72?,z75pipe?,
-
xx5 must do now, survival, re-tribe, 6-06\x-vizn.txt retribe-blogspot.com:
-
xx6 list verses related to word-bank (z4) the 5 1!'s:
word bank xx6: best water-words yet: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow see z4 word-bank for more. do:dehumidify dehydrate refridgerate
cold: expansion(water2vapour), evaporation(methods:magnetic, electrostatic, liquid. upon:water, disciccants, fibers, objects, plants, anything damp(basments?), anything containing water:), earth as heat-sink, vortex-tube, icy-balls, z150 hot: solar, redox-reactions, thermite?, slacking-lime(see was\ice2.txt for 3 chemical heat-sources), fire(methods:methane(john fry, harold bate, ram bux sing:journeytoforever.com),electric,wood,compost(jean pain), see energy-to-mass conversions of all types -stored in one form to another:scienceprojects.com basic science projects related, -then choose the one most fit to your area, coal, friction, human-powered:hand,foot, door, implosion(vapour2water) does create some heat when condensing, any reaction dealing with oxygen usually gives off heat:rusting, burning, cancer, body-heat?, heat-and-cold: thermo-massive objects, vortex-tubes, electronics?, science projects, certain things: cements plasters epoxy heat-up when re-crystalizing. insulate: list insulation values of various materials:cotton, fibers, layers of plastic, bubbles, foam, air-flow: siphon, vortex, suction, implosion(vapour2water), air like water 'wants' to move a certain way... -imitate it, egg-shapes? air-foils? expansion(water2vapour)
-end
-
xx7 related helps,nfo, images?: z112-113, doom:z146-148+z2-3 z366 z371 z372, mind-stir:z342, bio homes:z349, z350+354, amish?z352,
-end - - end of 5verses
comment: doing set 1 helped me see definitions, types, concepts, and odd things that need be noted in the preview for dhu7-06.txt: main. 3brief? collected so far: z10:gooz, z11:1!2!3!, z12:content by dirz, z13:3brief of each htm dirz, best-of-show: ones marked -!- are re-listed, for '3brief' only.
odd statements: -for xx7 ?
- salt-water will evaporate quicker? electrostatic -conducts better? - hot water will freeze faster than luke-warm water. - z260-265 lamps metal and water - definitions: z313 - doom:z146-148+z2-3 - ooi: water > greens > grain > flocks > people > sin > drought
ice1.txt v6-25-08 - - clip from f19-7\82506.zip\freeze.htm A bunch of objects in equilibrium with radiation don't have the same .TEMPERATURE!>
You learned in physics that objects at thermal equilibrium all have the same temperature. Yet if you examine objects bathed in the radiation field of a summer day, objects which are free to exchange energy and which you'd think of as reaching equilibrium, they aren't the same temperature at all. After all, the white plastic deck chair can feel cold to your touch while the red hood of the sports car is hot enough to fry an egg. What trick is radiation playing now?
Earlier I said that the coefficients describing emissivity, absorbtion, and transmission vary with wavelength. This makes it possible that one material is very absorptive at a particular wavelength and not emissive at another; and a different material is not absorptive at the first wavelength, but very emissive at the second. These two materials will not behave the same.
If we are interested in how materials will behave when in sunlight, then the important figure of performance is the ratio of absorption coefficient in visible light, as to emissivity at thermal infrared wavelengths, eb. Examples of two extreme materials in this regard are aluminum painted with white epoxy paint, for which the ratio is 0.3, and brushed stainless steel, for which the ratio is 4.3. If these two materials are placed in full sunlight, and prevented from cooling by any means other than long-wave radiation, they will achieve equilibrium temperatures of 286K and 564K, respectively! A Carnot heat engine operating between these two temperatures would be 50% efficient, far better than any photovoltaic solar panels. .CONCLUSIONS> We are out of time, especially so as I planned some time for questions and answers. In summary, it should be obvious that the subject of radiation heat transfer is very interesting. It is also very complex, and becomes even more so when absorbing gases are present, and when solid surfaces transmit radiation and so forth. These few examples, I hope have shown you how to begin solving realistic, and interesting problems. ice2.txt - - - - v6-08 from was\ice2.txt heat sources, Exothermic and endothermic chemical reactions Heat from cold wood ashes Slaking Lime The Thermit(e) reaction Making your own hand warmer Further reading and websites Challenge To make a safe, portable form of heating to take to the rest of the team working up on the glacier. Exothermic and endothermic chemical reactions When a chemical reaction takes place, chemical bonds in the reactants are broken and new bonds are formed. Depending on the nature of the bonds involved, a reaction will either release energy to, or absorb energy from, the surroundings, as heat. When a process releases energy to the surroundings it?s called exothermic (from the Greek thermo meaning heat, and exo meaning outside). The most obvious effect of an exothermic chemical reaction is generally a rise in the temperature of the reaction mixture. However, some processes absorb heat energy from the surroundings in which case they?re called endothermic reactions (endo in Greek, means within). The effect of an endothermic chemical reaction is generally a fall in the temperature of the reaction mixture. Back to top All combustion reactions (e.g burning of coal) are exothermic. Incredibly, the reaction between iron and moist air to produce rust is a very exothermic process that generates lots of heat. Unfortunately, this particular reaction takes place so slowly that the liberation of heat is undetectable. Pyrotechnics, explosives and fuels, on the other hand, all involve very fast and hugely exothermic chemical reactions. For our hand warmer, do we need to use an exothermic process or an endothermic one? To generate heat and release it to the surroundings, we need an exothermic process and one that?s suitable for use in a hot pack for warming the hands. What properties do you think are necessary for a suitable chemical reaction for use in a hand warmer? Well, the reaction must be portable and easily reproducible. It must generate and be able to maintain a temperature that?s neither too hot nor too cold. It must also be safe, and not involve the use of hazardous chemicals. We decided to try three different exothermic processes to see if any met the above criteria: Heat from cold wood ashes Slaking lime The thermit(e) reaction. Back to top Heat from cold wood ashes The first ?reaction? that we tried for our hand warmer involved dissolving potassium carbonate (K2CO3) in water. Potassium carbonate is one of the chemicals left behind in the ashes of burnt wood. You can extract it from the ashes by boiling them in water and filtering off any undissolved solids. The potassium carbonate dissolves in the water, along with some other salts. Reducing the aqueous solution down by evaporating off much of the water, followed by filtering, will leave a clear solution containing predominantly potassium carbonate. If you evaporate off nearly all the water, solid potassium carbonate will eventually fall out of solution as it becomes increasingly concentrated. It can then be filtered off and dried. When we dissolved our dry, solid potassium carbonate in water, a temperature rise of only a few degrees Celsius occured . The process wasn?t therefore suitable for our purposes. We considered alternatives involving a chemical reaction of some sort. Although dissolving potassium carbonate (K2CO3) in water is an exothermic process, it isn?t a chemical reaction, because no chemical bonds are broken or formed as it takes place. But it generates heat, so can be described as exothermic. Back to top Slaking lime The second exothermic process we tried for our hand warmer involved the ?slaking? of quicklime, which involves a chemical reaction or two.. We took ordinary chalk (calcium carbonate, CaCO3) and heated it to between 1 200 and 1 400 øC. At these temperatures, the calcium carbonate releases carbon dioxide gas (CO2) and is converted into quicklime (calcium oxide, CaO). When you add water to the quicklime, a process called ?slaking?, a vigorous reaction takes place, and lots of heat is generated. The product of the reaction is a compound called ?slaked? lime (calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2). Although aqueous solucitons of 'slaked' lime are alkaline, its solubility in water is so low that the solution would not represent a caustic hazard in a hand warmer. Given the right amount of lime, the amount of heat generated would be suitable for our purposes. The reaction?s also portable and easily reproducible. But let?s try one more exothermic reaction. Back to top The thermit(e) reaction The third process we tried was a chemical reaction called the thermit reaction (sometimes spelt thermite). This is a vigorous and highly exothermic reaction, which was used in the past to weld railway lines together. We managed to generate enough heat in our thermit reaction to weld two pieces of steel plate. The temperature generated by the reaction must therefore have been higher than 1 600 øC. The thermit reaction involves the reduction (Originally, reduction involved the chemical removal of oxygen from, or the addition of hydrogen to, a compound. Reduction is more accurately defined as a process in which atoms, molecules or ions gain electrons) of certain metal oxides by aluminium (Al) powder. We got our aluminium powder by filing down old drinks cans. We chose to use iron(III) oxide, or Fe2O3, known more commonly as rust. We got ours off an old corrugated iron shed at the sawmill. When we mixed our aluminium powder and rust in the right proportions, and kick-started the reaction, a glowing mass of molten iron was formed, along with an amazing amount of heat and light. This was a little too vigorous a reaction to be used in making hand warmers so instead we decided to stick to the slaking of lime. Back to top Making your own hand warmer The best reaction for use in our hand warmers was the ?slaking? of lime. It generated enough heat for our purposes, and involved chemicals (water, calcium oxide and calcium hydroxide) that are comparatively safe, and readily available., The reaction?s also portable and easily reproducible. TO MAKE YOUR OWN HAND WARMER YOU WILL NEED 2 sealable polythene bags (approx. 10cm * 10cm) 14g powdered lime (calcium oxide) 10cm3 of tap water teaspoon plastic pipette or eye dropper bucket of cold water Before you try the following experiment, make sure that you are wearing protective glasses nd latex or rubber gloves. Do NOT handle these chemicals with your bare hands. Don?t use a Nylon garment. NOTE: Be careful: when mixing the contents you may find they become so hot, they may cause serious burns. Take a small, self-sealing polythene bag and place it inside another bag of the same type and size. Using the teaspoon, carefully add 14g of powdered lime to the inner bag, and use the pipette or eye-dropper to add about 10cm3 of tap water to it. Seal up both bags securely, and mix the contents together by carefully manipulating the powder and the water with your fingers. After a few seconds, you will notice that the temperature of the hand warmer starts to rise dramatically. When we took our ?slaked?-lime hand warmers to the rest of the Team on the Franz Josef Glacier, we found that so much heat was generated by them that some of the plastic bags actually melted. If this happens when you try the experiment, drop the bags into a bucket of cold water and dispose of the resulting solution by flushing it down the toilet. Be sure to wash your hands immediately and thoroughly in plenty of cold running water. Back to top Further reading and web sites: Metals and Chemical Change, edited by David Johnson, published by The Open University and the Royal Society of Chemistry (2002), ISBN 0-85404-665-8 Materials and Energy, Book 2 of the Open University Course ST240 Our Chemical Environment, The Open University (2000), ISBN 0 7492 51425 Hampden - Sydney College An educational site looking at the various uses of lime. Wikipedia Encyclopedia A site looking at a variety of chemical reactions, including exothermic and endothermic reations. Washington University in St Louis This site provides an experiement for an exothermic reaction. University of Siegen - Germany Selection of experiments of Thermit reactions
ice3.txt ---- clips from 82606no.txt goo9\search.htm hot chips with mayo bonnie: i dont remember getting a decent answer for my question. how did they get ice for ice chests before electricity was invented. reply:this is what you want: Join Date: Jun 2005 http://www.teknoscape.com.au/forums/member.php?u=5144 Location: this is what you get Posts: 1,503 Most municipally consumed ice was harvested and stored in ice plants which did not actually create artificial ice, but stored natural ice brought in from snow packed area or frozen lakes. Even Thoreau's Walden Pond was not spared from ice harvesting where some 1,000 tons of ice were harvested daily.
With metropolitan growth many of the sources for natural ice became contaminated from pollution or sewer runoff. This increased the need for a safe mechanical means of refrigeration in the home, and with the development of the chlorofluorocarbons (along with the succeeding hydrochlorofluorocarbons and hydrofluorocarbons), that came to replace the use of toxic ammonia gas, the refrigerator replaced the icebox
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_house "You might like to learn of some of the lack of the “household conveniences†of the 20’s and 30’s. We did have the electricity, but had to cook and heat with wood or coal. It was even a longer chore to heat enough water to take a bath. Refrigerators were late in coming, so we had to fill the old ice boxes with the ice from the ice house (delivered to houses about every 2 days)."
Originally Posted by some site No chemicals were used to make ice before electrical refrigeration was invented, any more than chemicals are used to make ice now: the freezing of water is a physical change, brought about by lowering its temperature. But before refrigerators, one had to use other methods. The simplest method was to go where there was ice and bring it back. Kings in India (and probably elsewhere) used to have snow brought to them from the mountains, as a delicacy. This is bringing ice from "elsewhere in space."
One could also bring ice from "elsewhere in time." In places where winter temperatures are routinely below freezing, ice was cut from ponds and lakes, then stored in special insulated buildings until needed. In America, the Shakers were well-known for their excellent ice-houses; these were double-walled and triple-roofed, with sawdust packed between, and more sawdust laid thickly on the floor.
Finally, one could use a little ingenuity. The Romans used to make ice in the deserts of North Africa or Palestine by taking advantage of the low humidity (and therefore the low temperatures at night). They would put what they wanted to freeze in a pit well-insulated with straw. The pit would be covered with highly-polished shields or other objects during the day, to reflect the heat of the sun; at night, the pit would be uncovered so that it could lose heat to the desert air.
The same principle was used, for example, in British India. In times and places when the nights were cold, water would be poured into molds at dusk and allowed to freeze; then, at about 3 or 4 AM, the ice would be chipped out of the molds and rushed to an ice-house. One come a day, the water will run... no man will stand, for the things that he has done... and the water will run... - goo9\madsci.htm Posted By: Dan Berger, Faculty Chemistry/Science, Bluffton College Area of science: Science History ID: 941414234.Sh
Message: How can you make ice without electricity or without a fridge?
How was ice made in the past century, when there wasn't electricity? What chemical were used? and how they kept it cold?
No chemicals were used to make ice before electrical refrigeration was invented, any more than chemicals are used to make ice now: the freezing of water is a physical change, brought about by lowering its temperature. But before refrigerators, one had to use other methods.
---- goo9\doclew*.htm in honor the most unforgettable person I've ever met, the late Dr. Herbert Clay Lewis. by Jerry B. Roach, P.E. in heat transfer, the final exam included the question: "The Bible describes how to make ice on the desert. Please describe the procedure and explain how it fits your knowledge of heat transfer."
No one knew the answer. Doc chuckled and told us we should read the Bible and learn that on a still, clear night in the desert, if one dug a shallow hole, lined the cavity with straw and placed a ceramic pan with a thin layer of water into the straw-lined nest, then there would be minimum conduction, little or no convection, and radiant heat transfer to outer space would control. Since outer space has an equivalent temperature of minus 400 degrees F, and radiation is governed by the difference between the absolute temperatures to the fourth power, you can truly make ice in the desert.
A quiz question I will never forget was the midterm in unit processes in organic chemistry. Doc asked us to describe the Solvay process for producing soda ash, an inorganic chemical. - goo9\waa.htm http://www.nau.edu/ get more of, deep-chat for dew collecting Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:03:38 -0600 At 06:58 AM 3/15/2004, you wrote: Forum for Physics Educators .PHYS-L@lists.nau.edu> writes: > >I assume that the colder > >air falls to the ground so that by the side windows it is slightly > >warmer. However, for the windshields the "ground" is the hood or rear > >trunk and is just that much cooler. best parts here: ? ? ?
- goo9\Rough Science 2of10, get all for here? Series 1: Mediterranean, Series 3: New Zealand, Series 4: Death Valley The Challenge: Make Ice Page: 1 of 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 WARNING: The methods used by the Rough Scientists in their attempts to make ice involved the use of methanol, ethanol, acetone and ether. These are highly flammable liquids and their vapors form explosive mixtures with air.
--- goo9\1401c.htm -get more of! http://ww2.usca.edu/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/album09 http://ww2.usca.edu/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/hsgZMMtrip2002 Not only the dust, but as you see in my photos, I ALSO experienced FROST when I camped at the "Corral Springs National Forest Campground". This was 2 miles West of OR Rt. 97 about 50 miles South of La Pine. In a desert, the atmosphere is totally free of moisture, making it very transparent to infrared (radiant heat). Thus there is rapid transfer of any heat to outer space. This results in rapid cooling to point of freezing! In desert regions, prior to refrigerators, this was a common way to make ice! You have to see it to believe it!
- 8-06\25\goo9\freez.htm -get more of, unusual, tech, real-situ. best yet!? paradoxes of radiation: A seminar presented March 14, 2001 at LCCC Star Club, Cheyenne, Wyoming by Dr. Kevin T. Kilty clips: What's the heat transfer thing if we are outside? The natives in many dry climates can make ice at night, even when the air temperature remains near 55°F, by exposing a shallow earthen dish of water on a high piece of ground to a clear, dry, night-time sky. In July 1995, my brother found a dead person lying atop a hill. He, too, had been exposed to a clear, dry, night-time sky; and the sherrif concluded that the person had died of exposure on a night when the air temperature in all likelihood stayed near 50°F all night. What do these have in common? skylight.gif Figure 4, in the upper part, shows a person outside in sunshine. It is well known that about 40-50% of heat loss from a human occurs through radiation. Therefore, radiation is very important for maintaining our body temperature. During the day there is a 6000K sphere in view that is 0.5°of arc. It is the sun. There is diffuse radiation coming from other parts of the sky as well. Also, the earth, and vegetation are warmed by the sun, and all radiate also. Thus, even if the air is not particularly warm, a person can feel comfortable on a sunny day because some object at every possible view is radiating.
Now let us examine the same situation at night. The person, having a nearly constant surface temperature radiates at the same rate as before. Skin, by the way, is nearly a blackbody at long wavelengths(e=1). But now there is no sun to radiate energy, there is little or no diffuse light from the sky, and the earth and plants are all much cooler. Does any radiation come from the sky?
The answer depends on what is in the sky. Probably the most important thing is how much water vapor is in the air? Water vapor is a very important absorber of infrared radiation, which means also that it is a very important emitter. If the air near the ground surface is very wet, then a thick layer of air will radiate just like a blackbody of the same temperature. This is why the evening cools-off so little in places like the Southeast or Midwest. If, on the other hand, the air is quite dry, as it is in Wyoming or in desert areas, then it absorbs and radiates almost nothing. In this case that 50% radiated energy from the body is a very substantial heat loss, which has to be is replaced from within the body. Is the body up to the task?
The dead person my brother found on the hilltop, had gotten his car stuck in mud during the night. As he struggled to free the car he apparently had beer to drink--quite a lot of beer i think--and he also became very warm. As he continued to wrestle the car he took off clothing. Finally he wandered up a nearby hill, with substantial blood alcohol, nearly naked, and passed out on the hill top.
Put as simply as possible the chain of causation here is...
Wyoming-->Dry, Clear, Night-time sky-->Go naked-->Die. Keep your clothes on, folks, they make a good radiation baffle! - The katabatic wind: or heating by cooling. This is not a paradox of radiation per se, but it involves radiation along the same lines as the previous paradox. Consider how air, near the ground surface, behaves on a summer night in Wyoming. The ground surface radiates to the night sky, cools rapidly, and cools the neighboring air. We have just seen that this occurs in a most pronounced way when the air is dry, as it often is in Wyoming. As this air cools it does so near a particular ground elevation. In other words, it cools at constant pressure. We can organize the ideal gas law in this situation to... rT=constant.
The air becomes more dense as it cools along an isobar. In figure 5 as the air cools it follows the iosbar (a hyperbola) from 1 to 2. The ground probably slopes in some direction, and the air, having now become more dense flows downslope to lower elevation. It is extremely difficult to maintain static air on sloping ground when there is radiation heat transfer, and this is one reason (among millions of others) why Wyoming is windy. This wind is called a katabatic wind.
In order to understand what happens as air sinks downhill, you first must recognize that air pressure increases with lowering elevation. The reason, simply put, is that air pressure has to support the weight of all of the air above, and at lower elevation there is more air mass to support.
What happens to the parcel of air that became too dense and is now sinking down a sloping surface? Well, its pressure certainly rises, but what else occurs? The answer could become very complicated, but if we assume it sinks so rapidly that it cannot transfer heat, then the first law of thermodynamics tells us what occurs. The first law is dU=dq-dw. I know you didn't fully understand this at the time, but dU is an exact differential which is a difference of two inexact ones. The inexact differentials we can calculate only when we know how heat is transfered or work is done. In this particular case we set dq equal to zero because we are not transfering heat. The inexact differential dw is quite easy to state--if we use heat content (H) rather than internal energy (U), then the only work involved is mgdz; where m is a mass of air (who cares how much?) and g is gravitational acceleration. Ah, you will recognize no doubt, that work in this case is just like lowering a mass in physics lab. Meanwhile, the exact differential we can calculate independently of how the air arrived at its current state. Being an ideal gas (ideally that is) its heat content is just dH=mcpdT. Now reorganize this to dT/dz=-g/cp. Meteorologists call this the dry adiabatic lapse rate, and it describes how the temperature of air will change if it is moved quickly to a new elevation. It is the straight line on Figure 5. The sinking parcel of air follows this line from 2 to 3 on the diagram. skylight.gif So, we conclude that the sinking air will undergo a change of temperature and a change of pressure, which means its density changes. Moreover, it will not stop flowing downhill until its density equals that of the surrounding air. When will this occur, you ask? Figure 5 also shows a sort of ragged line that is meant to indicate how the state of the surrounding air varies with height. Meteorlogists call it the environmental lapse rate, and it has a value near 6C/km.
You might ask, why does the environmental lapse rate not equal the adiabatic rate? This is a good question, because it is easy for me to answer. The reason is that the envirnoment has evolved to its current state though a whole series of unknown processes, or, in other words though a whole bunch of steps of dq and dw, and the environmental lapse rate simply represents the end result of it all. katabatic.gif On Figure 5 I show that the sinking air stops sinking where these two curves cross. Always that happens when the sinking air reaches a greater density and higher temperature than it had when it began radiating early in the evening. The air has warmed by loosing heat! Isn't radiation weird?
Almost any summer night, you can go to the Goshen Hole country in eastern Wyoming, and feel a katabatic wind flowing down the drainages of Horse Creek and Bear Creek. In drought years, when the air is especially dry, this wind is at its most severe, as you'd expect. In these years the wind can reach 70mph and adds additional misery for crops and farmers beyond what the drought does already. - goo9\multi*.htm One of the most sophisticated examples of channeling natural energies in a desert climate to create comfortable living places is the royal Hasht Behest garden pavilion in Isfahan. In the garden, the chenar trees provided shade, irrigated by water channels supplied from aerated chutes which put anions into the air and cooled the water through evaporation. The garden air was cooled both by transpiration and shade from the trees and evaporation of the water. The pavilion itself consisted of a high central mud brick dome with a glazed cupola, surrounded by open porches and enclosed rooms.
In the summer, the hot sun on the outside of the vault created rising air currents. In passing the open cupola windows, those air currents sucked out the warm air inside the top of the dome, both removing that heat and pulling cool air from the garden into the pavilion below. In the winter, by merely closing the cupola windows, the warm air in the dome was retained in the building and the sun on the outside of the dome heated it, radiating that heat to the inside through the night. Queensland metal roofs would benefit from that kind of ventilation.
The Persian deserts also contain strange structures - "yak-chals". These were built for - believe it or not - making ice! Think of a more sophisticated traditional technology developed merely from observant living *with* the climate! The night sky is so clear that night temperatures plunge throughout the year - but not to freezing. Yet the clear sky provides such a clear absorbent face that shallow water pans, lifted off the heat-retaining earth and left exposed to the sky, actually turned to ice. The Persians, like the !Kung in the Kalahari in Africa, had incredibly sophisticated means of finding and producing water in the desert - from far underground, from using condensation out of the air onto rocks, and other amazing techniques to produce water for drinking and for agriculture.
In India, there were slight variations on these patterns. Small pavilions or turrets were built on the tops of the walls, creating raised places to catch the breezes and smell of distant places, and to see far into the distance in the clear desert air.
Paolo Soleri's work in the Arizona desert in the States gives yet another pattern. Digging down into the desert rather than building visibly above it, he has reached for the mean temperature in the ground that averages out daily and yearly temperature swings. There he has built, sheltered from the strong desert winds, a series of half-domes facing north and south. One orientation provides shade and coolness in the summer. The other provides a solar heat trap warm space in the winter.
Why even have architecture in the desert? An aboriginal might laugh at the architectural research performed on their dwelling patterns - measuring the size of their wind screens and shade structures. Is there any purpose for architecture or even buildings in the desert? Or is the simplest wind screen and overhead shade more than enough, and their size circumstantial and not important?
The Ndebele in Africa explore yet a different path. The surfaces of their mud-plastered homes, which temper the daily temperatures, have exploded with dramatic and subtle geometric design with the advent of European paints, whitewash, and other colored materials. Instead of leaving just "the desert" around their houses, they have created mud-plaster floored ceremonial "porches" defined by sitting-height walls around the houses, investing those spaces with powerful cultural meaning and function.
And then there are the Mogul yurts and nomadic living patterns, with seasonal shifts for pasturage, water, and temperature. Each desert yields its own long-evolved patterns, whose wisdom can be appropriated to mesh with both the cultural and the environmental needs of Australian people. We have the wisdom of the whole world to draw on in making a new tradition for this special place, so use it!
- goo9\vcrlter.htm ICE MAKING AT BENARES December, January and February is the dry air season at Benares, India. It is the flow out of Asia time of the year. Thus it is the season of minimum greenhouse warming. Well, there is a better way to say that. It is the season of greatest terrestrial radiation loss to space! The Earthly greenhouse in question is not one that results in warming but rather a lessening of cooling. We really don't have any greenhouse warming here on earth but rather greenhouse gases put the breaks on radiation loss to space. It is more akin to insulating your house than stoking the fires in your furnace. Countries dominated by the Asian Monsoon have half a year with ample greenhouse gases, small to modest loss of earth light out to space, and warm nights. The other half of the year has not nearly as much greenhouse gas (H2O) in the air, earth light easily passes out to space, and cool nighttime temperatures are the rule. It is a wet air, dry air thing. Daytime temperatures don't come into this story much. High daytime temperatures are caused by the sun and moderated by evaporation, if water is available. Our story on ice making in Benares is all about the time when the sun is below the horizon: night. My report on Benares is extracted from the Transactions of the Royal Society MDCCXCIII:56-58 and MDCCXCIII: 129-131. by J. LL. Williams. The LL. stood for Lloyd in the late 18th century. The J for John. John was an Esquire at Benares, India. LL.'s paper was read to the Royal Society by William Marsden, Esq. F. R. S. on February 14, 1793 and May 2, 1793 respectively.
LL. notes that even with temperatures that run from 95 to 100 F in the shade the 18th century, locals at Seerore near Benares where LL. lived made lots of ice. Seerorens made their ice on a nearly level plot of some 4 acres. The plot was divided into squares about 5 feet on a side with raised borders. The sunken squares were filled with dry straw or sugar-cane haum. On each bed of hewn and dried standing biomass, broad, shallow pans of unglazed earth were set. The pans, 4 acres of them (~100,000 pans) were then filled with water. This was all hand work as pumps, pipes, valves, hoses and the like were not yet invented. A team of some 300 men, women and children did this work. The clay pans, being highly porous, wetted throughout and were ready for evaporation. To make it easy to get the ice out when it formed, the insides of the clay pans were rubbed with butter! The pans had to be rebuttered about every 4 hours during the night. Ice harvesting began around 5 in the morning. If the straw under the pans got wet, no ice would form. The 300 men, women and children had to be ready to replace the straw or reeds during the night if needed. LL. reports that air temperatures at night rarely fell below 40 F. LL. also notes that if there were but the slightest wind no ice would form. The wind part is easy. On clear, calm nights air temperatures near the surface increase with height above the ground. Add a little wind and you mix the warm air from aloft with the cold air at the surface and it doesn't get cold enough to permit the ice to form. Fans and helicopters are used to prevent frost in orchards. Keep the air mixed and prevent frost at the surface. The ice makers of Seerore used well water to fill their pans. The pans had to be filled by dusk so that there would be a maximum of hours of cooling. The pans were filled in the afternoon. Under the hot mid-day sun the water in the pans would warm. Not so. Well water at Seerore used in the ice making season is about 74 F. So during the course of the night water temperatures in the pan fell 42 F! During the day, while the pans were being filled, evaporation prevented the water in the pans from warming in the 95 F heat. In fact the temperatures fell from well water temperatures of 74 F to around 68 F. When the clay pans get old their pores get filled with "gunk" and were not porous enough to permit maximum evaporation. The water in these old pans would warm to 88 F. Pan fillers could tell when the pots were getting too old and needed to be replaced by placing an experienced finger in to the water late in the afternoon. Seerorens were great advocates of evaporation and its "frigorific" effect. Seerorens used tatties to keep their homes cool. Tatties are mats of fresh green bushes or long roots. Tatties were hung in the windows and doorways. Their tatties were kept wet. Air passing through would evaporate the water and cool markedly as it made its way into the house.
HOW GOOD ARE TATTIES? Seerore's tatties seemed to work well. Here is some data from 1792. [In the latter part of the 18th century you could buy thermometers. Jefferson bought his on July 4, 1776. Recreational temperature measurement was the rage!] May 16 and June 7, 1792. 2 PM local time Seerore. Hot days with westerly winds. May 16 June 7 Thermometer in the sun.. 118 F 113 F Thermometer in the shade. 110 F 104 F Thermometer in tattied house. 87 F 83 F So we might ask the question, How hot could a well tattied Seeroren house get? My guess is around 92 F (the Priestly Taylor Temperature) as at temperatures this high or higher effectively all the heat flux from the tatties would be due to latent heat and sensible heating would go to zero. Anyway good tatties will win you some 20 F of cooling. The price you pay for having good tatties is that you humidify the house as you cool it! If the tatties even came close to saturating the air in the house then it would be like living in a penal sugarcane field in Queensland, Australia if British or perhaps on Devils Island if French.
more on ice-crystal, snow-flakes, leafing-out -humidity, not put -here- try: Long Term Ecological Research Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 18:12:10 GMT - goo9\hindu.txt .The Process of Making Ice in the East Indies>. - By Sir Robert Barker .published in 1775>
Following is the method that was used to make ice in India as it was performed at Allahabad and Calcutta. On a large open plain, 3 or 4 excavations were made, each about 30 feet square and two deep; the bottoms of which were strewed about eight inches or a foot thick with sugar-cane, or the stems of the large Indian corn dried. Upon this bed were placed in rows, near to each other, a number of small shallow, earthen pans for containing the water intended to be frozen. These are unglazed, scarce a quarter of an inch thick, about an inch and a quarter in depth, and made of an earth so porous, that it was visible, from the exterior part of the pans, the water had penetrated the whole substance. Towards the dusk of the evening, they were filled with soft water, which had been boiled, and then left in the afore-related situation. The ice-makers attended the pits usually before the sun was above the horizon, and collected in baskets what was frozen, by pouring the whole contents of the pans into them, and thereby retaining the ice, which was daily conveyed to the grand receptacle or place of preservation, prepared generally on some high dry situation, by sinking a pit of fourteen or fifteen feet deep, lined first with straw, and then with a coarse king of blanketing, where it is beat down with rammers, till at length its own accumulated cold again freezes and forms one solid mass. The mouth of the pit is well secured from the exterior air with straw and blankets, in the manner of the lining, and a thatched roof is thrown over the whole. .[i]> * Ice making in India. It was made in open pans. ****The spongy nature of the sugar-canes, or stems of the Indian corn, appears well calculated to give a passage under the pans to the cold air; which, acting on the exterior parts of the vessels, may carry off by evaporating a proportion of the heat. The porous substance of the vessels seems equally well qualified for the admission of the cold air internally; and their situation being full of a foot beneath the plane of the ground, prevents the surface of the water from being ruffled by any small current of air, and thereby preserves the congealed particles from disunion. Boiling the water is esteemed a necessary preparative to this method of congelation.
In effecting which there is also an established mode of proceeding; the sherbets, creams, or whatever other fluids are intended to be frozen, are confined in thin silver cups of a conical form, containing about a pint, with their covers well luted on with paste, and placed in a large vessel filled with ice, salt-petre, and common salt, of the two the last an equal quantity, and a little water to dissolve the ice and combine the whole. This composition presently freezes the contents of the cups to the same consistency of our ice creams, etc. in Europe; but plain water will become so hard as to require a mallet and knife to break it. The promising advantages of such a discovery could alone induce the Asiatic to make an attempt of profiting by so a very short a duration of cold during the night in these months, and by a well-timed and critical contrivance of securing this momentary degree of cold, they have procured to themselves a comfortable refreshment as a recompence, to alleviate, in some degree, the intense heats of the summer season, which, in some parts of India, would be scarce supportable, but by the assistance of this and many other inventions. (source: .Indian Science and Technology in the 18th Century - By .Dharampal> p. 169-173). htm may have pictures. + links - article.htm slashdot.org? vortex-tube ice -no end-
Thank you for all the great posts so adorable! they do look like The dress is great, all the posts here about that pattern have prompted me and it looks like you did a very professional job. thermal pallet covers
It is topped with a thick, long-lasting fiberglass wick, and a snuffer cap on a chain to quickly put the flame out. It can burn for up to five hours, using lamp oil or citronella oil.
I try to read this work. I have missed you and the blog and now i am out giggles when we should be planned the core values for a brownsville middle school.
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40 Comments:
wow, vortex-tubes!
the dangerously-neglected study of natural-geometry.
exair.com
vapaire.com
http://members.aon.at/pks.or.at
http://www.openviks.blogspot.com
http://www.spin-n-ward.blogspot.com ?
http://www.frank.germano.com/viktorschauberger_3.htm
vortexscience.org
i started seeing it in trees, plants, its everywhere!
examples of its principle is all around you, and in you.
- - - -
July 20, 2006 9:58 AM
Anonymous said...
new water nfo for ret users at
www.ret-water.blogspot.com,
new key-word for vortex-tube users: vortrap,
use it at google.com
August 04, 2006 11:36 AM
Anonymous said...
so will this jump up the def-jam charts ?
I dunno. Let's find out... (switchn to overdrive)
-click-
Rollin'... in my 5.0,
With my rag top down so my hair can blow,
The voltage is on standby, costs of icin' too high,
(Did you stop?) No, I just froze, by
Freon - pursuin' temp'rature drop,
Compressor's dead, yo, so I made a move,
George J. Ranque, Hilsch-Ranque vortex in a tube!
Peltier's hot, like electrical bikinis,
And I got no voltage from the Lamborghinis,
Warmin' - cause I'm out thawin' mine,
Got my compressor gauge, readin' PSI "9"
Vaccuum - for the mods on the wall,
Mods are actin' ill because they had their 8 LOLs
Hissin' - through the compressor shell,
I clamped the hose, but it was shot to hell,
Ozone'z - burnin' up like real fast,
Registration link at time-mag suckin' goat ass
Readin' the Wiki, the 'pedia's packed,
Thermodynamics 'bout how the fridge is jacked.
Third law on the scene - you know what I mean,
A million RPM? Efficiency unseen,
If it's a solution, this don't solve it
Pump out the heat while the Hilsch-Ranque revolves it
(Vanilla) Ice Ice Geeky, too cold...
Ice Ice Geeky... Ice Ice Geeky...
[ _Parent_ ]
Making Ice Without Electricity
Posted by _ScuttleMon
August 30, 2006 5:36 PM
- - complete change of thought:
but on the flip-side of things, i got news:
those who want to build pressure up,
in a vortex-tube,
without having to pump it yourself.
should hear these words from the 1950 edition of the
encyclopedia americana, waters p474:
tree-growth = crystalization?
freeze-thaw cycle of absorbed water, or!
'efflorescence' (study that word) the forces
produced during the slow but irrisistable growth
of salt-crystals is of the order of 100,000 psi.
a force which is assumed by many to be the main
cause of masonry disintegration.
vortex-tubes need atleast 100 psi:
see exair.com model# 6025?
the one you can take apart.
running air into a hot-spot,
and then a cold-spot,
is how some water-makers work.
the vortex-tube does hot and cold.
water that freezes in a rock
can split that rock. you have seen it.
my god, the answers are all around you.
i will repeat this nfo one more time:
'efflorescence' the forces
produced during the slow but irrisistable growth
of salt-crystals is of the order of 100,000 psi.
a force which is assumed by many to be the main
cause of masonry disintegration.
-
it sounds like cracks in the wall, trees that over-grow,
and other things we call troublesome, have been
trying to tell us the answer all this time.
we should use these forces. not fight them.
go with the flow. man-kind is full of madness.
somthing died in him. only j-su, he can fill it out.
but god still says: will you trust me...
as for the tube, this little dude is going to do
more than crack rock.
other news:
herd fire-fighters talking about vortex-tubes. they are already using them to keep the suit cool.
-
- comment about water-glass:
it seems you are right.
i gathered all the ashes i could find,
dumped it into an old wooden bucket,
porued water over the top,
and let it seep out the bottom.
a month later i had seep stuff.
this stuff is usefull for soap making,
but i got you message and decided to
mix it with sand and toss it into a fire.
sure enuff, somthing like water started
coming out of the fire.
after i realized what it was i tossed water on it.
it shattered into pieces and glass shot everywhere.
safty first, always wear eye protection and a mask,
dont let sand dirt ceramics glass clay or anything else
get into your eyes and breathing tubes.
im thinking this stuff could cover a dome-house or
pour into a mold to make vortex-tubes.
this is cool stuff, sealant for the tribe,
and its almost like silicone gel.
just dont do your hair with it.
if emma knows west africa than im going there. we can see what other rets are doing and test what this stuff will do on their houses.
cuz your arnt dumpen weerd stuff on my hut.
- olngesher@yahoo.com
-
maybe deudamiff?
can put with the
x-files.
news:
this guy did excelent water study: randy johnson
http://www.cyber-nook.com/water/Solutions.html
but i still say the black stuff (burnt wood)
crushed and used as a water filter is best cuz
things around town are going to get so crazy when
power downs.
you wont have time to think.
October 16, 2006 7:08 PM
Anonymous said...
got issues?where is you water-supply?who controls it?� whats in it?ok, lets change the subject.maybe we can chat.
are you tribal ?
whats your part in the group. ?are you going to let friends hang. ?the power went out again,if there is no water,
would they still be you friends?
would they act like friends?
do you choose to wait until this happens?
or be ready when it does.it takes only one.to move many.we dont want to bore you,
just control you.
so what do you want to talk about.?
if they got your water,
you got no say.
�come now,did you really have somthing 'more'important to do today?i'd like to hear about it.for real.
- email me if its hot:
deudamiff@yahoo.com.au
-
deudamif�said...
lets break vision 2006 down,
number one: a place no one knows but you.
number two: a place you can meet others who do.
i think that covers everything.
sounds simple.
sounds like home.
just not all together.
good.
-
now do everything they say not to do.
take your clothes and sheets
and toss them in the mud.
mix well.
-
now spread them into some sort of
shelter shape. like a tent or igloo.
when the muddy clothes dry they will
be just like frozen laundry in winter,
stiff as a board.
other news:
www.ret-water.blogspot.com
just got updated.
-
November 03, 2006 9:36 AM
Anonymous said...
Brain- - - lust. Beware! inforgasmania
November 04, 2006 9:02 PM
Agent 99�said...
brainlust. Beware! inforgasmites unite. yahhhhhh. creator createe. whatever comes out at this peak will be out of ALL controll. please don't bore me.
November 04, 2006 9:30 PM
Anonymous said...
-
www.ret-water.blogspot.com
next update:
water-makers using desicants.
my conclusion: sand, or crushed quartz or rock.
details posted.
-
water-filter: carbon-black from wood. burnt and starved to death. (cover fire)
-
strange visions of what free-water, secret-water can do.
-
but i wont post that yet.
-
December 01, 2006 2:06 PM
Suck on This: (w/ P's and Q's)
hot soil+ plastic(so rare tis)+oryganicals =condensational globalwarming microtropolus
I always knew I could see better with my eyes closed.
Don't count me out just because I am blind. Sometimes dumb to.
Hellaballoo…n ?ATP? Running-late’ of the AsOf Tribe
Vortex trube, using air not water.
Take care of the air 2 the water compounds are not too far from it.
Heat creates condensation, creates a vacuum2, will pull the cold air down quite forcefully? One drop of water in perfect repetition is an amazing machine. Old music boxes have wind up spinners too. Simil-ar to a willow branch wound tight maybe strung out and looming on possibilities of commercial aspirin. That was chased down by the Baer, then the communists moved in.
When you move air as fast as you think you can it particularly and separately compounds. Some orbits will be thrown out and temporarily separated by what you really want. The molecules create their own atmosphere maybe. That ideally could sustain itself if the habit-at is not altered too much and is allowed to stay consistent or constant. As long as need B.
C it is simple kids…just adjust the vibration; wheather it be up and down, in and out, or just pressurized for hot making.
Why do caves seem more densed more than canyons?… ^ vs U
The caves I come from are warmer and moist compared next to the dry air. Cool and contained. If the air in the root cellar is to slow, everything freezes, expands, explodes. That explosion causes heat too. The calories could make one fat.
Ooo the pressure is mountaining… the particles are condensed and it is tight-errrr. And harder to move. Umm allright now. When air is slow it is cold, when it moves fast it is hott-er. The drip comes from near by water settling deeper due to atmospheric pressure created by outside Big Big vortextual attraction and compounding pressure inside causeing the fast guys to escape up while pushing the cold guys down. The struggle between the guys is what rings out the 2HO’s. Creating more drips and drawing more dripping. If I could draw this for I would, maybe I should. Water purification could be studied by stalactites and deposits of gold. My airconditioner is so seasonal and I like it and all but it drips consistently into my garden. Not sure how the Freeon works on my purple cabbage. It continues to grow, in fact it woke up first this year with these gorgeous little yellow flowers at the 5 ft mark.
Survival Mode: grab my string theory and create a vortex on The holy wood. FIRE! Make a hut in the arids. Dig a Hole, Drive a Pole, and tarp it with green or your hide. Thx sweat bath lodge. The smoke might infuse you though it does get disguisered dispersion from above. Looking like steam from a rainforest canopy. One cup of water might make more if collected properly in clay or skull. The drip drops on the flame create steam, create more pressure to condense the densed.
The B Side:
Track 1- alcohol is fermented x.
Track 2- soak me in alcohol and all my oils come up leaving the crap at the bottom in a suspension of liquids with the oils on top and separated quite neatly.
Track 3- oil stays warm longer than water
Track 4- rock stays warm longer than wood. ?burning rocks? When the sun goes down the heat is released from the rock rapidly, causing some dew moisture.
Track 5- coal is wood-rock
Track 6- Rock Paper Scissors/2rocks
Track 7- rocc
Track 8- The question truly is Where do you Find water? vs. How do you Make water? Conditions change due to atmosphere. So the answer is adaptive. Evolutionary?
paint-stuff
paint807.txt - - - - v9-1-07 12pm, encyclopedia-nfo... 'paint'
this nfo is bent for RET uses, tells you what we know,
and attempts to sort stuff for your-own use.
paused at: mp7..add more re-c-pie to mp5
jump to: mp1 mp2 mp3 mp4 mp5 mp6 mp7
mp1: MY re-sons for typing this:
mp2: your first paint-job
mp3: pigs in cars
mp4: warnings
mp5: techniques
mp6: more pigs and cars
mp7: the big-view
mp8: what i wood do.
seen-selection:
mp1:reasons hopes linoleum mud-sheet no-puzzle look-deep-but
mp2:paint:in-it, from?, otherz.
mp3:pigments(3), binders(2), thinners(3)
mp4:dates ISO9002 chalk:eye-mask BACON
mp5:uses historic decay-process Fresco
mp6:vehicles driers thinners pigments word-bank 3-in-1
mp7:-Everything-i-tried:2-papers of encyclopedia notes
paints:old,new,related,Lac,Varn,simple,synthetic
mp8:list things to try, then add dates tried.
PAINT: is pigs in cars...
cars: is (vehicles) binders and thinners.
PAINT! is pigment-in-vehicles.
- end of gide - -
- - mp1: ur@mp1:
MY re-sons for typing this:
#1:get goo to cover my shel
before it rains... pleeez!
or i'm doomed.
#2:tell-it2-you forces me to:
- display things sensibly.
- maybe see my faults.
- and what this is leedn to.
and...
its kept simple so you can grab dirt
and try it.
-
maybe someone will...
use it to make a program for Rets...
you input the stuff you got, then...
it tells you how to make it paint.
or gives a list of possibilities
based on the things you enter.
-
found during the search...
Linoleum...(see encyclopedia)
listen to it...
-
its not paint,
its not plaster,
its kind-of..everything.
simple, tuff, made
to be walked-on.
-
amazing...
i like it cuz it has a fiber
netting...sack-cloth? support.
crude-Ret needs crude methods...
it all sounds like...
bed-sheets-soaked-in-mud
method.
let it go stiff...
instant..shell.
fill with popcorn-insulation.
-
...(wow)..all those words...
and i ended up
thinking muddy-sheets.
...again.
its like this...
Ever hated a puzzle with missing pieces?
well... thats were people are...
out fighting over pieces...
when you... cood have...
drawn a faster-picture yourself...
showing... the-key-points...
(get to the points)
of-the original-picture...
you-R no artist... but people get
the idea...
the puzzle may be a cat-picture.
now... you-R no artist... BUT...
you can draw som-thing.... so..
people say... o yeah...
its a cat...
and you dont have to fight over
pee-sez...
you draw it... your done.
there never was any puzzle to do!
... puzzles keep people...
...busy... controlled...
dis-tracted...by...f-ony-debates.
-
its a war for your mind.
and they win.
(i hope you just herd something)
i meen...
look deep...
but stop...
step back...
look around...
you may be...
missing somthing easier...
and better.
-
want heat?
try the hilsch vortex-tube
at www.exair.com
mold-your-own.
how about hand-warmers?
home-made.
www.ruff-science.org
-
- end of mp1 - -
- - mp2: ur@mp2 - -
title: your first blow-job.
baai...i meen paint-job.
but... b4we sink in paint.
sink-about your paint:
whats in it...
organic meenz is/was living.
not organic... minerals rocks.
is...?
is it -FROM- this area.
is it in my reach -NOW-
can i use it Raw! as-is.
OR...
is it IN-side somthing else?
how do i get it out.
got somthing faster?
-
now you add...
techniques: if i got it...
-how- do you use it...
(see mp5)
-
common paint is pigment,binder,thinner
paint = pig-bin-thin
baa... uhh...
b4 i limit paint to 'common-paints...
lets sink-about others:
luminous-paint,
better-paint,
living-paint, and
strange-paint
luminous paint:
glows phosphor living? slow-oxidation calcium Bologna-stone and Hombergs-phosphor radio-active = glows longer
better-paint: (well i sink so)
mosaic plaster stone tile brick ceramics shellac Varnish Linoleum! bone Silica! silicates stucco enamel blood Compost!
compos meenz: plaster for walls! i am not kidding. look-it-up!
Living-paint:
plants animals self-coating objects
manzanita: a dead-bush, yet its red-paint lives!
what if this living-paint cood go down walls?
or a shell.
Strange-paint:
touch copper-wire to 220v-outlet... pow!
-ALL- wiring near-it gets coat-ed with
a strange copper-film, i can-t rub it off.
where did the wire go?
did egyptians use zap-jars?
- end of mp2 - -
- mp3: ur@mp3: pigs in cars
news about pigments, binders, thinners
Pigments: colors powdered from?
there is three-kinds of pigment use-ful for paint.
3 little pigs: Opacity, Colored, Extentions
-
Opacity: white-hiding, eg.titanium-dioxide, iz white-rock(quartz) a pig?
Opacity: also meenz cloudy, you can almost see out\in.
Colored: a lump of pig you found offering color 'AND' opacity.
it has two types: Natural and chemicaly-made.
Natural: -earths minerals dug-up.. or dyes of plants.
(hair-dye,crayons,dirt)eg.red-iron-oxide,soils,white-earth,
yel-slv-ore + gre-copper-ore,red,violet,brown,cinnabar,
charcoal(burnt homes),ochers,indigo,Madder-root,etc.
Chemical: man-made by precipitaions in solutions of chemical-reactions.
eg.zinc-oxide white-process,sulphate of lead,lithophone.
oxides: metals eaten by oxygen, rusty metals+rocks exposed to air-sun-water-acid-fart-fumes tannic-acid from tea-leeves.. rots your teeth... eats... turns pigs into powder... makes a mess... you want it.
Extensions: lazy pigs reinforcing, extending, fortifing your paint.
pigments mined from the earth, most are inert(meenz:do nothing) used mostly to 1.control consistancy, 2.sheen, 3.smoothness, 4.filling properties. this makes reeely-nice paint.
and thats the story of the 3 little pigs,
Wit, color(Ed), and Lay-z.
-
pig-up-a-tree?
pigments can also be treed(classified) by
1.source, (where did you get it?)
2.color, (how many colors do you see?)
3.method of preparation. (how did you make it?)
eg.source: has 3-branches
- natural-pigments,
- chemicaly-prepared-pigments,
- vegetable plant\animal pigments.
only NATURAL pigments are available. until the 20th century.
was this good or bad?... i dont know,
i dont want to 'breeth' any of it. and yet its all around me!
see mp4: warnings
-
remember: Paint... is pigs in cars
(pigments in vehicles)
Lets try vehicles:
vehicles: contain binders and\or thinners.
Vehicles: mix's that can spread-and-bind
the pigment onto a surface
the way... you wanted.
-
BINDERS: is anything that leeves a film:
eg.Resins egg-yolk some-plant-oils,
varnish from acacia-tree-sap, lin, soybean oil.
salad-dressing from a friends sandwich... etc.
THINNERS: helps carry pigment from storage-can to
the surface you want painted.
eg.Solvents,Reducers,anything Volatile
eg.gasoline from your teachers car.
volatile: somthing that can carry the pigs for a while
and then Evaporate, leeving the binder alone and exposed for permanent drying. eg.try Turpentine, Kero-gaso-lene, or Water.
-
more details for vehicles, driers, thinners p.109: see mp6
-end of mp3 - -
- mp4: ur@mp4: warnings:
record-and-store things by date,
NOT-by-subject!
subjects,projects,topics,and
your ideas-goals change.
dates do not.
-
example: a study called: water
did on 5-07. (may-2007)
searched all my records for
water-related nfo.
and made a list of them.
2-06 5-06 and 8-06
-
dont move it.
just link to it.
this saves time, and space.
never try to change the past.
keep the new nfo (water-list)
under the date it was made.
-
remember:
move-things as-little as-possible
-
i will also be flashing words
in front of you with no meening.
1.cuz i didnt want to type it all.
2.cuz your mind connects things.
it just needs the words -NOW-
so if you see word-banks,
just-reed-it... dont think...
same thing with all media...
they plant words in your head.
-
to command and control millions
of people...
you dont say anything...
you suggest things...
over and over...in many ways
till they connect it themselves.
that way they dont forget.
cuz it was 'their' idea.
that...
is what they wanted.
that... is
dangerous...
next time you turn on the news...
think... why are they telling it
...that way...
....why me.
-
hey, puzzles ARE good!
it makes a fine painting
somthing YOU put together.
it makes a good-idea,
someone elses.
it makes a message to the people,
(buy my crap and kill joe)
the message-of the people,
(we want crap and kill joe)
yes...
but some people see threw it.
so they bring in drugs.
and call it pain-relief.
now nobody knows anything.
world-peace.
-
other warnings:
ISO.9002 meenz
controled by the new-world-order.
ISO totaly controls you and everything.
no mercy.
i seen it on paint-cans and
powdered-milk bags.
you will not get away from US.
-
none of this informations is intended for
drug-use(eating-it) oR making booms
but it goes into bo-th.
-
good-nfo is always used for evil.
you draw your own safty-line.
-
all ? paints willl 'chalk'... time...age..everything..
turns to...powder...blows away... all around you, everything.
you breeth it...cements...asphalts...hair..shoe-parts...car-fumes,
molds, fugus, parasites, viruses, flues, keep your mouth covered.
it is a sick-world... and this document isnt about
water-falls and vortex air-purifiers. (sorry)
be-careful what-the-paint around you is made-of.
(...do i got a choice..? its on everything!)
same with masonry and ceramics...dirt..rocks..hay
work with a filter, mask, eye-protection,
and plenty of air-flow..(ventilation)
sink eye-protection when hammering Eny-thing
like rocks hitting rocks... boing!
sharp-things fly... out-goes your eye.
-
insentive: Am i sposed to pay you for
reeding this...?
getting out of becoming bacon...
is... your-pay.
-
insentive: You 'NEED' to be on-fire.
b4u start wanting ways to stay cool.
imeen-it, you got to walk-off someweer
weer you got no-protection...
and stay.
you cant reed this if you got no reason to.
you cant be where your safe from sun and cold,
and then try to paint your way out.
you got no reason too. you get lazy. you forget.
you go from room to room, comfy to comfy
so you got no reason to go, no reason to grow.
this is very-dangerous, this is your warning.
cuz your in it
-NOW-
how different things are...
just a few steps away.
-
go 5-minutes in a direction you never go,
out where you can let the sun and weather
get-you.
be happy... start fighting with
a friend named: (bacon)bad-conditions.
it makes you tuff and smart...
cuz if you get lazy... it wont be long...
someone will take you to places where
you got-no choice... and got-no chances...
bars...doors... you didnt want.
how differnt things are...
just a few inches...
from...
freedom.(breeth it)
-
-end of mp4 - -
- mp5: ur@mp5: techniques: i got what i-want.
but how do i use it? (see also mp7 recepies)
well..um... look what others do\did:
eg.cave-drawings, Egyptian, ochers mixed with water
see books 'Industry' manufacture extraction from...
stone-pallets crude-brushes, grinding pigments with oils.
paint = pigments,binders,thinners
eg. beeswax mixed with dyes. Tempera
and oil-paints, acrylics?
water-colors are water-thinned
manufacture: man-made, the process, see 8-20p3of4(mp7)
-
some recepies are in mp7
-
lets start with watching things... decay.
we are going to dig into the garbage...
like we never did before...
see anybody you know?
first we got fresh plants... smells good.
-
then: time-germs and heat eat-at-us...
and it... ...smells sweet...alcohol esters
-
more time: and it starts making its own heet,
now it stinks...acids..destroying metals.
methane-production is at-peak now.
vinegar...
-
later: it stops bubbling and stinking,
but i can still smell it, stable and brown.
is this poop?
-
not to later(one moonth): it is very black
very condensed, stable, smells like..gasoline
or coal, peat,compost,plaster,asphalt
...hmmm C-H or H-C ? eat it and see. (no dont)
-end of my decay-story..(i call it trash)
notice at every-stage you get things
alchol, acids, heet, poop(plaster), coal.
and each can be used to make somthing else.
coal can be 'cracked' and separated into
tons of other things. see 'petroleum'
-end-
if you condense-anything?
it makes good plaster for
a shel-ter.
-
other notes considered 'techniques'
p130 polychrome,FRESCO:water-dissolved colors on wet-plaster.
to a wall or surface place:six coats of lime-plaster.
fibers are primed to prevent pigs from rotting them.
parasitic p290 sanitize-cover the out-house!
techniques:p129 clay mixed with hair and straw,smoothed,fine white clay added ,kept moist,outlined in red, first 3 coats contain sand,last 3 marble dust,each coat placed before the last can dry, glue-casein,white of egg wax used to bind.
catacomb art,mosaics,fresco, died 1400's when oil-paints improved, revived 1932 as an art.
Buon-Fresco (true-fresco):surface must be free of salt-peter or potassium-nitrate(KNO3) fresco-plast is lump-lime slacked in water, or hydrated-lime, Lime is 'slacked' by mixing it with water and working it till soft like butter, sand must be clean and sharp,not smooth-stones, beach-sand will not do, washed and dry, putty mix with sand, apply to wall,scratch surface of each layer to provide grip for the next layer coat, on dry-walls add egg,casein,or glue.
- end of mp5 - -
- mp6: ur@mp6: more pigs and cars
encyclopedia\paint\p.109: more details about
vehicles driers thinners pigments
Vehicles: liquids that turn solid, eg.linseed(flax)-oil,soybean-oil see:8-20p2of4 Resins Cellulosic-compounds chlorinated-rubber casein-milk
Driers: metals lead maganese Cobalt! may prepare it separatly into liquid, then add it to vehicle
Thinners: thin thick paints: try turpentine(pine) petrol-spirits(gasoline?) Naphtha(coal) or try Wine alcohol (drugs) or... Water (the best solvent)
-
p.108 pigments: (showing only parts i feel are useful)
started with 8 papers, then re-did it down to 2-papers
best-of-the-best...er.. imeen stuff i-feel is easier.
want? the 2-papers? : see mp7
MY word-banks grew
till i seen a-word that 'looks'... um... ?
better-to me?... than 'paint'. (is it?)
you are reading my-best paper 8-24-07
pigments and a word-bank:
PIG-ments: (jump to the color-u-want)
WHITE extenders RED yel-org-brw...blu-green and BLACK! + metalics.
WHITE:lead,zinc titanium Dutch-Process: cor-rode a lump of pigs metals for 3-moons by exposing it to..? fumes of acetic-acid(lemons-tea? softdrinks) and C20 from fermenting tan-bark.
try tannic-acid from tea-leaves (4-bags-tspoons) see b2b,ink.p343, then wash and dry. -OR-...wash and churn-with-oil till oil displaces the water, also called lead-in-oil paints... collect lead-fumes in cloth-bags. (lead is bad, but its everywhere... in clays aluminu? in wiring, in x-mas wires, etc.)
-OR- furnace(burn in a can)zinc(toilet-parts, plumbing?) till vapours unite with oxygen = zinc-oxide (is safer than lead-anything), collect vapours in bags. then where it over your head.(no dont)
Area-ideas(stuff related and neer-you): zinc-pipe lead-wire-coatings(xmas),tea,see b2b-notes8-22p4of4..(see mp7)white-washes
snow-roof glop cans ash? white-cloth? try bleached-writing-paper, wood plastics scraps earths crushed quartz rock
-others:(same methods)lead,zinc-sulphide by precipitation and cacination,
lithopone: interior-paints, a composite of zinc+barium sulphide,titanium-oxide..a precipitate, calcinded to form titanium di-oxide,Lead-Titanate:high-opacity+durability,Antimony:Roasted,fumes collected.
Extenders: re-places pigments that are too-expensive or to-opaque..(a filler) OR... in size or shape prevents hard-setting of pigments stored for long times. some give films 'tooth' or improove paint-durability
eg.examples:
- Barium-Sulphate, Calcium-Sulphate... as they occur naturaly or chemicaly.
- Calcium-Carbonate: yes! chalk putty limestone or precipitated varietyz
- Magnesium Silicates: yes! fibrous form = talc (sniff..hey? i got that) flake-form = mica (a rock?)
- Silica: wow! various forms finely-ground for use in Paints.
- other: alumina china-clay diatomaceous-earths (wtf? see word-bank)
-
RED pigments: iron-oxide as-is, -OR...60% Calcium-Sulphide, toludine=organic-dye, light-fast(resistant), Madder-root: alizarine
others: Tuscan-red lake-red and Maroons
YeLLow-Orange-Browns:
ocher=clay, stained with 15% hydrated ferric-oxide(rusted-iron), Sienna-color= use more oxide than ocher
umber=greenish-brown earth+maganese-dioxide.Italy.burnt-color=roasted earth.
Vandyke-Brown=brown-earth with bituminous(?)-material.metalic-color=get-it-by calcining(?) the ores.
Hansa=organic pigs: good-brightness + tintable, light+alkali fast+non-toxic!
-
BLUEs: expensive rare useless...except Phthalocyanie (cyan?) sky-blu? made by modern-chemistry (not natural) is tintable light-heat-acid-alkali fast(resistant) AND non-toxic(?)...others: COBALT! and dye-stuff from plants
GREENs: Chromium-oxide= fast-strongest known (and easy2get! chrom is on most old-cars)... oxide=rusted...eaten.. hydrated-chrome makes Guignet(a-color) see dye-stuffs from plants..grass?, Paris-green: is poisonous = copper-arsnic-aluminum oxides.
-
BLACKs: Ahhh! now-we-are getting somewhere. see mp7.
Lamp-Black: hydro-carbons (bitumin?) or carbo-hydrates? burned and smoke collected on-to a plate held over the flame(candle).
Carbon-Black: gasses burned and fumes collected on a plate or cloth.
or use as-is.char-coal blacks, burnt-wood, acrylics?
Bone-Black: calcining bones without any air...(maybe a little?)
Graphite-Black: if you can find these hard coal-rocks... use as-is.
Iron-oxide: magnetic, used in metal-primers... i collected bags of this black-stuff out on the play-ground, you run a magnet into the sand and all this black-stuff sticks to it.
-
Metalic pigments: Flaked: some metals are easy to flake.
these are: aluminum(cans) copper bronze(see junk-yard) lead and zinc
(do-not-grind flakes, add it to the mix last)
process: ??? see mp7
-
WORD-BANK: ( the words i was wanting to knoe better )
primer,cellulose,hydrocarbons,opium,acrylics,polymer,methane,silica,diatoms,
processes:precip condens calcinat,... salts,calcium, resins,
other:carbide furnace resonate electro,... glycerin,amino,enamel,Lino
-start-
primers: are paints you use first, on difficult places that got no grip,
like smooth stones and metal-surfaces... use metal-primer-paint. (add bike-rubber?) than you can use the paint you want... over it.
Opacity: milky glassy cloudy translucent but not transparent
-
Cellulose: a carbo-hydrate with fibers, eg.plants, wood-pulp, cotton.
used for making paper,plastics,lacquers,booms.
Cellulosic-compounds: ???
viscose: sticky,slow-flowing,thick brownish-liquid prepared by the inter-action! of cellulose with sodium-hydroxide and carbon-di-sulfide. mostly cellulose-xanthate, forced it threw small holes into a cuprammonium-solution which decomposes the xanthate...leeving threads of cellulose-fiber(viscose-rayon) or used as-is for trans-parent wrapping-paper (cellophane)
-
Hydro-carbons: (H+C)a larrrdg-class of compounds (things that-were living) made of hydrogen and carbon (water and plants), anything? condensed-sorces: natural-gas, petroleum, and coal.
make your own? see: compost or methane-digester(no-air)journeytoforever.com
hydrogenated-soybean-oil (water-blown carbon)...marsh-mellows...
carbo-hydrates: (C+H)cabonated-water, condensed sources: oil sugar tar raisens(grapes) honey flour asphalt gasoline wine beer?
OPEC: a combine of all nations that produce petroleum, dictators.
opium: dried laytex from unripe-capsules of the opium-poppy
a habit-forming drug
-
Acrolein: a volatile liquid ch2=chcho, decomposed glycerol
Acrylics: related to the acid, its fiber, or its resin
acrylic-acid: get by oxidizing acrolein
acrylic-fiber: various fibers obtained by polymerization of acrylonitrile
acrylic-resin: various thermo-plastic resins got by polymerization of esters of amides of acrylic-acid or.. methacrylic-acid (from methane?)
acrylonitrile: liquid(condensed)poisonous,colorless,flamable ch2=chcN used in the polymerization of plastics and fibers.
-
polymerization: a chemical-reaction of two or more molecules-types spin and twist around each other when drawn out of the hot soup... much as pizza-cheeze-strings form when pulling it away from the pizza. internal-spinning-braiding and hardening occurs.
polymide-resin: strongly heat-resistant, used as insulator,adhesive,semi-conductors
polymer: molecules that form long-chains braids(so small cant see,vortex)
natural polymers: Cellulose, lignin, nucleic-acids, hair, horn, many more.
synthetic (man-made by chemicals): Nylons,rayons, and rubbers!
polyethers: dihydric alcohols(esters?) pulled out of a viscous-liquid.
polyethylene: one of the thermo-plastics:light flexible resists-chemicals used in food-packaging(look in trash) and insulation... floor? foams.
-
bitumen: any of the many viscous or solid mix of H-C hydrocarbons or some of their relatives that come from playing with nitrogen or sulphur..the 'other-side' of the plant-goo family. better known as..Asphalt..or.. road-crap.
bituminous-coal: soft coal rich in volatile hydrocarbons
bituminous-paint: black? paint including bitumen, used for rust-proofing and water-proofing iron-pipes, metals, fence-posts, materials you will be using under-ground, or above-ground. try a substitute: mix charcoal-powder into soy-bean or lin-seed oil.. makes a durable? PAINT.
-
methane: (not the drug) the gasses that bubble up from rotting plants and animals under water... better known as... Natural-GAS. h+c+c+c+c or ch4
-
hey? how come all the above words sound like the same thing... each is said a little differnt... hmmm. they are all plant-goo: ch-ch-ch cchh hc-hc-hc
i think i will make a pile of plants myself... anything that was living.
and let it rott..compost, learn how to compost, try one without air...
under water...rott sewage, trash, peat, crude-oil... leeve it in a trash-can of water...ferment...alcohol-esters...see those home-made diesel-gasoline kits you can buy now. (biofuel)its all the same.. get my own black condensed rotted(with or without air) glop started and try to make some things.
or use it as-is... yuck.. it stinks like...garbage... sniff sniff...hey! gasoline! but without lead, dry it out and use it as coal? charcoal?
is this sanitary? keep yourself protected... see mp4
-
words that feel more-close to what i reeely want: (get me out of weather)
not organic, not from plants... that sounds better, sanitary. solid.
-
petrify: to turn an organic structure into stone, or hard-as-stone by replacing(quickly) the organic-tissues with(listen to this) deposited-silica ,agate, and\or calcium-carbonate(plants+milk?bones burnt together)in solution. see Mt.ST.helen or other volcanic-explosions, things petrify...instantly...trees,people(even dogs while they are still standing!)
how about mummys? now i-am petrified.. (numb with fear or horror)
you dont need a good shel-ter, build a bad one and then petrify-it.
Opal: hydrus-silica(water+sand) uses as a gem
Ores: cavities where minerals are found, dug-up
ooze: infusion of bark, mud-saturated water.
silicone: any polymer of R2SiO, R=a hydrocarbon chemicaly-joined with quartz
joined=boiled zapped arch-welded electro-magneticly fired? etc.
uses:lubricant,resin,water-resistant film
water-glass: ??? !!!
Silica: silicon-dioxide. SiO2: quartz agate jasper flint-stones
a metal-salt usualy insoulable, makes-up the largest portion of earths-crust. verrry-abundant...lots of it. sand?
an impotant part of glass cement brick and other building-materials.
SILOCIS: lung-disease caused by breething silica, masonry, ceramics, dirt.
-
diatomaceous-earths:breaks at right-angles when hit? //a single-celled-algae 'plankton' marine and fresh, important. //formed from the silicous cell-walls of dead-organisms.//a light silicious, friable deposit of diatom remains,phsical-chemical properties allow it to be used as a filter,refractory(heat-resistant?), insulator,absorbent(desiccant?),etc.
depssits from sea-beds... lake-bottoms? may be easy for a RET to find. even on the tops of mountains and in desserts where...ancient seas left deposits,
-
Industry: books that describe how people extract and use things
see mineral\industry... geology
precipitate: chemicaly? cause somthing to become insoluble and separate from the liquid-solution. // to cause to condense and fall to the bottom (eg.vapour becoming rain) // a solid substance that separated from a solution as the result of a chemical?reaction...like a crystal-growing kit, or salt-deposit-on-string-wire project, or electroplating?, //a crytaline solid that can be separate from the soulution by filteration... want somthing solid to come out of this mess?... try a filter.//a deposit of water-vapour into a liquid or solid form.
condensed-milk: not just by evaporation, but by 'adding' somthing...sweet.chchch c-and-h
condenser: cold
evaporator: hot
insoluble: will not dissolve or desintigrate in water.
calcining: a physical or chemical change in a material(not organic?) by heating-very-high without fusing, drives of volatile parts, convert to powder or oxidizing... sounds like brick-making: clay+straw burned hard...cannot become clay or straw again... for a long long long time.
example of calcining and precipitation: (opposite? methods)
titanium-oxide..a precipitate, calcinded to form titanium-di-oxide
calcareous: soils containing calcium-carbonate or limestone..(farmers-fields) or things related to chalk vitamin-d2
calfierous: things producing or containing calcium...snails? bones? lime
calcification: conversion to calcium-carbonate \\disposition of insoluble calcium-salts in a tissue...petrified.\\\a process by which surface-soil is supplied with calcium
calcify: too change into calcium-carbonate or calfierous state by re-action of calcium salts.\\ to harden and become calcareous.
calcite: a mineral hex-crystal of calcuim-carbonate: chalk marble limestone iceland-spar stalactites stalagmites
-
salts:
salt:
salt-cake:
salt-glaze: +silica . glaze!
salt-pan:
-
calcamine: a white or colored wash for walls or ceilings.
calcination:
calcine:
calcium:
calcium bicarbonate:
calcium carbide:heat together lime and carbon in an electric furnace
-
calcium-carbonate:an insoluble salt CaCO3 used for quicklime and cement, natural-form is calcite
see also!!! calcium ---- :chloride,cyanamide,hydroxide,phosphate,silicate,sulfate,
calc-spar: calcite
-
Resins: any plant-secretions (blood,zits?) eg.pine,fir,tropical-trees, used mainly for Varnish, printing-ink, plastics, as a Binder...gum\\also a larrge class of synthetic-resins chemicaly made by polymerization used as plastics,Varnishes,adhesives,ion-exchange..filters?
-
carbide:
electric-furnace:see carbon-arch-light welder red-books
resonate: everything has a frequency...
electro-magnetic: the force that holds atoms and rocks molecules compounds together... disturb the electromagnetic pulses?
-
glycerin:
glycol:
glucose:
-
amino:
amide:
alcohol:
esters:
-
ENAMEL: is ? pigment+Lacquer ?
-
Linoleum: floor-covering,canvas coated with oxidized-linseed-oil mixed with resins and fillers..eg.corky
Linocut:a picture or design, cut into linoleum, used as a printing-press
linoleic-acid: unsat fatty-acid important to animal nutrition
linseed: the seed of flax for oil,medecine,emollient,demulcent
linseed cake: part after oil is pressed, for feeding cattle.
lint: used to dress wounds.
-
lion-hearted: brave as a lion.
-
liparoid: fat-like,shiny,lipoid
lipid:larrrge-grupe of organic-compounds:includes: fats waxes phosphatides
if you add carbohydrates(C&H-sugars) and protiens... these 3 make-up the main factors of living-cells...living?
-end of word-bank-
-
well.. thats it.
all them words...meen??
.. only three things...
plants (c+h or h+c cellulose)
bones (calcium-snail-shells)
dirt (metal-oxides-color silica-sand salts)
-
weeehoo (wow!)
the world around you just got small.
-
everything you see...
is made of three...
just mixed different ways...
to fool you.
hmm...different ways: see mp5
see mp7-recepies
-
i can go a step further and say
everything (3) is water (1).
the spirit of god moved upon the face
of-the-waters and said...
let there be...
-
a machine that can make anything...
just add water.
why not water?
evolution meenz: from simple
to more complex...right?
-
...and give it life ?...umm..
i dont know... so far...
there is only one.... god.
-
and many de-see-vrz...
- end of mp6 - -
- mp7: ur@mp7 the big-view - 8 pages of notes, re-did down to 2-pages
- it is a small-look at -ALL- i got in-to b4 choosing words to type this document on 8-27-07 (paint807.doc)
if you find somthing good
we can start: mp8
mp7 is a mess..
i tried everything:
- - paper-one - -
p1.of4 paint=pig,old\new paints
p2.of4 encyclopedia-scan of related-words
seed,silage,t.,u,var.,w..,linoleum.!etc.
( and its all related )
p.3of4 do-it books, ency.notes on
Lacquer(includes recepies)Varnish..
p.4of4 more recepies home-made
and links to even more.
- - paper-two - -
p1.of4 simple + past paint-ideas
p2.of4 encyclopedeia:paint-ingredients
p3.of4 white coloreds blacks metalics
p4.of4 petroleum..synthetics 4 paints.
-end of gide-
here the papers start:
2-pages for you to see... here-goes:
(remember.. it was 8-papers)
(remember.. im just flashing-words)
do not reed-it 2sr-s-ly
- - paper-one - -
8-21-07 p1.of4 pre-view of notes
from encyclopedia for water-proofing.
to much words,sum-it, manzanita,LIFE:plant
-paint=pigm,bind,thin
3pigm, binders oils films,
thin=vehicles
-methods p.108 fired wheel grey clay
china: kaolinic, wood-ash=glaze
- repeets of 8-20p.4of4 petrol-story
RAW.AGriculture 1920's crack,ethylene
to Aromatics, chlorene from salt?
words: make-solid, use-what-is,
condensed, trash, water-proofing,
things-that-leev-film, spirits, kaolinic,
carbonmonoxide+hydrogen is systhesis-gas,
methanol,ammonia, examples from bugs,
plants,history,shapes,geology,porcelin.
errosion: find out what it wants..
let it make a shel..4u.
- -
p.2of4 preview... of notes 8-21-07
seeds p.568 sea-shells.p684
liquid-calcium carbonate from the flesh!
...not from the fire. furfural, legumes
shingle ship.p.718, SILAGE.p819,
SILICATE.p823.CONCRETE.p468,sodi,sulph,
COKE,COBALT..blue,clay,COAL,compost,corn
,cordage,cork
- wood-finish do-self.v12.SHELLAC.
LACQUERS,gums.(sweet),paint,table-tops,
floors,sythetic.vs.natural
- bak-up.(think b4u sink) pick paints
that wont powder,toxic-breeth,you want:
stucco,plaster,qypsum,adobe,NOT paint,
do-it.v8@start,
! catalyst-fin:PHENALIN.b4rubber,
air-brake.types, PHENOLIC+oats,terms,
try:ENAMELS
-Linoleum.p548 oil-cloth,Kamptulicon,
bitumin, blacks,see:LIMESTONE uses,
slacked,LAC,tuber,trench,geology,gas,
milit,wheat,BRICK,FOREST,TREES,BARK,
FIbre,Heat.p45,VLAdimir,vocational,
WOOD,VARNISH,vacu,URINE,UREA,pottery,
TUNISA!,vaccum,BRISTOL,TUNG-oil.p144
ceramics.p149,vitreous=blast,brewing.
-mental-trip as my search continued:
my ideas go paint2varnish-to-stucco-to
adobe-to-Linoleum-to-plastics-to-
silicates-to-trees,blood,bone,i-quit!
-words:sesame-seed,shellac,cellulose,
phenol,enamels,shale+SANDSTONE,
lightning,military,trenches,holocaust,
lichen-plants(tuff-lifers live),wood
concrete:water,cement,sand,gravel
silica is 40% of all rocks,25%common.
silicates is the most abundant thing
on earth, next to oxygen...
bituminous: meenz organic material
- -
p3of4.8-22-07 ency+red:do-it-self books
pick items most in-reach, order-it by
least-effort.
- tree-seal:45%asphalt(road),
15%siliceous material(sand?),40%water.
- ency:LACQUER-notes:impregnable to...
sap of sumac-tree. LAC:insect.resinous,
veneered,reciepies:wine-alcohol.p619
and add gunpowder(cellulose-nitrate)
-OR-1.qt(wine?) to 1-half-pound gum-shellac
age-it 3-days,strain, -OR- maple(or-pine)
based,paint,METAL-leaf,apple-wine=old grape
-Lacquers: =1.cellulose-compound,2.Resins,
3.Placticizers for Flexibility.
1.Pyroxylin,nitro-cotten?,
2.adhesion,durable, resists-water
then?
mixed in a balance of:solvents and
non-solvents to slow it.
add pigments for:color,opacity,and
feature:heat,light,chemical resistance,
and\or more rubbery. wont chalk.
-Uses:auto,furniture,PIGMENT and LACQUER
mixed together is... ENAMEL?,asphalt,rubber
see:LEATHER\artificial+textile-Industry,
ethyl-cellulose.lac is NON-Toxic
-encyclop:varnish=gum OR Resin + solvent
is three-types:1.Spirit, 2.oleoresinous,
3.Water-type , manufacture-method + uses,
Many Use-Names
-Notes from paint-can(see also 8-8-07.txt)
Elasto-Seal UNDER-COAT-primer,phone:
800-345-0809 not for sunlight,yet..o-k-4
drinking-water uses:containers, it is a
water-base ACRYLIC-laytex. ISO.9002 meenz
controled by the new-world-order.
-words: Tree-seal (45%asphalt,15%sand,water)
is My substitute for cement... this brings
concrete...into my reech, cuz i didnt have
portlant-cement...(the missing ingredient)
-words:Varnish: a solute of gums OR Resins
with a solvent. solvent types:1.spirits,
2.oleoresinous,3.water.
what remains after volatiles are evaporated:
1. condensed solution of Resin: natural-resins:
Lac,damar,Manila,Rosin,tree-blood,your-blood,
synthetic-resins:UREA(chicken-poop?)formaldehyde,
vinyl-resins,acrylic-acid resins,chlorinated-rubber,
rubber is coal+nitro...
solvents include: petroleum-spirits,turpentine,
toluene,coal-tar-naphtha,alcohol,
manufacture: Resin and solvent is churned together,
except gloss-oil:400'F+slacked-lime,
uses: on playing-cards,papers,traffic-paint,ships,
nitro-cellulos-blends..(boom!)
try also endothermic-reaction of powdered-aluminum,
and rust(iron-oxide)..scratch a soda-can..makes heet.
horrible-heet..melts rail-road bars...dont breeth.
2.oleoresins: a mix of 1.resins,2.oils,dryers(usualy cooked)
in a volatile(thinner)liquid, oxygen(air) is needed to
dry the oils,
RESINS:can be:fossil(kauri,Amber),Recent(Rosin,Manila)
or..synthetic:cumarone,ester-gum,pheno-aldehyde,maleic-acid
Drying Oils:your-area type or linseed,perilla,tung,oiticia,
if dehydrated(air-blown)acid-treated:castor,soybean,fish-oil can be used.
method:in pots stainless-steel or aluminum,3'x3',oil+resins stir-cook at 450-600'F, watching-drips for desired results, then...cooled,thinners
added,filterd,aged,settled,25%Rosin lost in fumes.
many use-names:
SPAR-paint(tuff!),flat-paint,air,bake-type,metal-paints
- -
p.4of4 a continuation of 8-22-07...
3.water-varnished: 6oz.shellac to 1 and
one-half oz.borax, boiled to each pint of
water.
glazing-varnish:egg-white + water,
preserved with acid or thymol
and add bichromate(chrom) of potash to
help is resist-water better.
crystal-water varnish: 1.lb gum-arabic
to 1.lb glucose, to each 3-pints of
water, see also:chemical-industries.
- sum it again
- non-organic water-proof words:???
- Home-made paints,white-wash,inks
formulas from BACK-to-BASICS book
by Readers-Digest (see public-library)
includes:stain-removers,cast-iron
cleaners,stove-putty, pest-deterents,
and repelents.
b4u forget whats all around you...
study non-organic things..
dusty-floors:scatter damp leaves OR
fresh-grass over it b4 sweeping.
p.342practicle Formulas for around home:
Pest-deterents:
- fly-paper:resin+castor-oil,
mice hate peppermint, fleas hate
PENNROYAL, insects-hate FEVERFEW(herb)
boil and put on skin.
Glues and pastes:
flour-paste:cold water blended,
stirring till boiled.
wall-paper:add ALUM powder
white-china cement:gum-arabic
dissolved in water, add plaster of
Paris, no heat, very-strong,
except in hot-water.
cast-iron-stove putty: powdered
wood-ash, powdered fire-clay, and
salt + enuff water,dries-hard,
needs replacing yearly?
fire-proof cement( for cast-iron
stove-cracks): add enuff egg-whites
to hydrated-lime, then add
iron-fillings (rust?) Improoves with
age and repeated heatings..
keep lime off hands.. its caustic.
(anti-acid?)
-
Paints, White-washes, Inks:
BLack = potatoes cooked black, grind,
add linseed-oil. for...
Green-paint:add yellow-Ocher.
Old-fashion Milk-Paint: 3tbsp.vinegar,
to 4 cups milk,heat gently till curdles,
then 1.oz slacked-lime.
Make P-H.balanced...if too acid, add
more lime, if too alkaline(caustic?)
add more sour milk.
Next mix in 2.lbs of whitining(clay?)
then some pigment...
makes a soft-flat-finish, not durable.
coat with shellac,(linseed-oil?)
-
Glazed white-wash: boil 3/4ths-pound of
Rice + half-pound sugar in 7pints water,
till rice desolved,heat-remove, add one
pint of raw-skimd milk, then mix in
hydrated-lime till consistency is like
thin-paint.
almost all known formulas use slacked-lime,
and zinc-oxide for whiten-ner.
-
your own pigments: boil colored-earth in
plenty of water for hours, strain out
organics and stones, allow sediment to
settle, pour-off water,set residue to dry
inn shallow pans, pound-fine-ly in mortar,
sift again b4 adding to paint.
-
Paint-smell Remover: handfulls of dry hay,
(older the better) immerse in water, shake-
out and set in shallow pans around the
freshly-painted room, dampen the hay as
soon as it drys out. Moist-hay absorbs
oily-vapours.
-
Permanent Black-Ink: 8.oz.honey,
1.egg-yoke,1/4th oz.gum-arabic. Add enuff
lamp-Black to get a stiff paste.
-
Brown-Ink: 1-half cup water to 4tea-bags
(4tsps) steep 15.min, stir to extract
tannic-acid, strain,let cool b4 bottling.
-end-
-end of papers 1-of-2-
- - paper two - -
p1of4
v8-19-07 Rain-proof things collect
time people-roofing shel-spot structure
methods,paint is:condensed-anything?
-naybrs-trash:gums, sun-tested, seen
manzanita-plant = living-paint
previous-efforts(look at past papers)
sort mix test:small-samples,
but make many, see historic-examples?
-back-up:think-b4u-sink, besides-paint,
what else..? other, resistant ABRAM
ADAM NOAH pitch?
-ency.notes:PAINT:p.b.t:3pigs,bin,thin
methods:???
-ency.notes:CHINA:pottery = fire+clay
..ware..roofing..kaolin
-
- -
p2.of4: 8-20-07 step-back you, look4
key-points..stop looking so closely.
see human\industry\minerals
titanium-dioxide: in.sun-tan-lotion,
cant find naturaly, try rust.oxides
-ency.notes:PAINT:see...sim2?.hygiene
warnings,
pigments:white oil:dutch-process,
methods:fumes of acetic-acid and carbon-
dioxide..
zinc-vapours,extenders:reduces,prevents,
improves, Black-pigs,Metalic,Red,OXIDE,
uses,cant,Root,clay,yellow,TOXIC,blue,
COBALT,GREEN
-making mix precipi.binds = paint =p.109
-vehicles: oils milk driers:cobalt
Thinners: water,Turp,Petrol,Naphtha
Technique:p.129e how + images
-end-
- -
p3.of4:PAINT manufacture 8-20-07
manufacture method: a little vehicle is
added to the pig and grind with stones
cold then vehicle-remainder add last,
if flakes are desired, dont grind-flakes,
flakes act as a leaf-pile does..very
water-repelent..if using a ball-mill,
must do it in batches,
bodied-oil meens thinkened by blowing
with air, or evaporation condensed,
boiled-oil does not meen boiled(hot).
xcopy this:
primer: for surfaces not-of-wood,vehicle of
rubber-resins for use on concrete(alkali)
-porch or deck:vehicle hard-drying,weater-resistant.
-interior flat-wall paint:varnish or boiled-oil(a type of varnish),zinc,titantium
-FLAT-paint(contains more pig than vehicle)
so it looks not shiny.low durability.add oil?,
Porch,interior,etc.
-Emulsified-Resin paint:Resins-in-oil varnish form, emulsified in water, then used as vehicles for pigs, used on plaster or masonry yet not cured,asphalt-shingles,roofing,odorless,drys-quick exterior-type,good durable
-latex-paint: binder is synthetic-rubber(use bike tires?) for interior plaster-use, dries quick as emulcified-resin,or casein-paint,used as...
resists washings.and alkalinity in plaster.
-casein-paint: oldest of paints,skim-milk or milk-curds(not whey?)Lime,and colored earths,store as powser or paste, casein is the binder 10% in dry-state (powder) paints,(but how much can i get? whats related to it?)flat-finish
-calcimime:Chalk and glue,sold as powder,add water,interior,temporary, must remove old-layer before new is used.
-cement-paint:mainly portland, pigment,add a brittle-reducer, for damp-masonry uses, keep damp for hours to let cement-water work.
-Metal-powder-paint: flaked or powdered copper,bronze,aluminum,lead, gives film water-resistance and opacity, leafing(flakes) decrease by time mixed(grinded?) with varnish, so they shood be are kept separate, the powder and the varnish, which created a dust-hazord, past-form is safer.
-Metal-primer-paint:for metal-surfaces,rust-resistant pigs are used.
-ship-bottom paints:anti-fouling,poisonous,mercury-oxide,cuprous
-colors-in-oil:???
-Putty:85%chalk,15%linseed-oil for filling cracks,windows,holes..(a cauk?)
-lacquers:see synthetic,imitation,cellulose,wood-products,pigments,vehicles,dryiers,silicates.
say it shorter:
cement-paint:Portland,pigment,for damp
areas, paint while surface is damp.
Metal-powder-paint:flaked...Leafing...
varnish,hazardous-dust, Metal-primer,
ships...anti-fouling(tuff).
colors-in-oil (a type of paint..art)
PUTTY: is chalk and linseed-oil.15%
Lacquers: see:synthetic,SILICATES.p290
Technique: p.129 Plaster,Hair,clay,
KNO3, lime-slacked,sand,silicates.p130c
Encaustic Tempera oil water-glass
chlorene from SALT.
-end-
- -
p.4of4: v8-20-07 water-repelent clues
at-hand in-reach sun-bake
-ency:petroleum trapped-plants+animals
out of 100gallons of crude you can get:
44gasolene,34feul,8asphalt-coke,6ke,
3-gal.lubricants and 3-gal.lost by xfer
total:100gal.
simple useable RAW grain coal CARBON
sugar...all old methods, but in 1920's
replaced by new processes fermintation
catylitic-cracking,distillation of..
-to make hydro-carbon products:
RAW: use as-is
inter-mediate: made during a process
end-use: the product desired
very hard to tree(classify) cuz you
can take many alternate-roots to get
the same product!
always alternate process-paths to:
ETHYLENE: the greatest,simple,reacts..
Propylene: polymer PETE HDPE bottles
ACEtylene: old way by calcium-carbide,
but also from...reacts with.. forms..
vinyl-acetate-or-chloride4adhesives
garden-hose, also gotten from COAL
COKE via Calcium-carbide
Coke and carbon for electrodes process
METHANE: to SYNTHESIS-GAS, also a bi=of
ace...also found in nature.
Sulphur: another basic raw-material
used to make many things
ARomatics: benzene,toluene,xylene from...
for solvents feul TNT ANHYD:in paints
plastics DACRO-fiber
- in 1932 plastics were\are cellulose-acetate
and 60% wood-pulp
FURFURAL:corn-cobs,cotton,seed-hulls,oat-bran
it-can replace FORMALDehyde in many recepies.
(whenever you see-need that word)
for-from methanol gas-coal or petroleum
for imitation-leather, treat with tan-bar tea?
from the woods. RE-taliation.
-end-
- -
well thats it.. all 2-papers
and it had words i did not
think to try.
words found no-wer else in
this document: KNO3 Borax ships
Furfural and anti-fouling and
Tunisa-architecture:
try www.archnet.org
all use-full-stuff... when your
surviving on things that
n-ever change.
-
-end of mp7-
- end - of paint807.txt document -
amazing.
-no end-
-
Vortex-Tube:
other names: Hilsch Ranque Wilberohr Maxwells-Demon
www.exair.com
Vortex-Tube: a small pipe that splits air into hot and cold.
very hot and very cold -50 to 220'F degrees!
powered by nothing,
free Hot and Cold.
needs only compressed air.
works at 20-220psi ,
but 80-100psi is best.
-
possible Uses: duu! cooking and freezing.
note: hot damp air on a cold dry surface
makes water! meenz survival. seeee?
-
Motive: Someone can do this.
BAD things happen to good ideas.
If it stops the tree-cutting...
think of it! but who?
STAY Anonymous.
Build Small, Build Many.
-
get model 3930 EXAIR cooling Kit
www.google.com these words:
Hilsch Ranque Wilberohr Maxwells-Demon,
vortrap,
Repulsine by Viktor Schauberger,
homemade Roger Hayward pasadena
-
hope somthing here is useful.
very useful, to you.
Click here:
http://www.exair.com/Cultures/en-US/Primary+Navigation/Products/Vortex+Tubes+and+Spot+Cooling/Vortex+Tubes
-no end-
shel108.txt - - - - v1-8-2008. 8pm survival-shelter-construction for RET users.
You dont know what-a-re-leef
it is to-be lost in a wilderness
and then suddenly find two big
boobs standing up in the bushes.
its very dramatic, and i dont ever
get over it. and with no pics...
this is the best way to describe it.
think two eggs standing up-right.
-
why bother telling you how to make
a shelter out of dirt?
cuz its easier to do it now b4
one hand gets blown-off, oR
you got only a pees of a hand
to work with.
and you say: that wont happen to me.
-
(see warning at end of this document)
( inspiration for new shelter ideas
came from www.thinkgreenbuilding.com )
-
this type-of shelter comes from
the idea that it is easier to build
two small t-p, then one big t-p.
two small domes,
connected by a hall-way.
from above it looks like a figure-8.
the base-wall is on gravel or some
kind of drainage, paked hard by a rod
or tamped with a heavy...?
i just walk on the top of it.
the gravel helps you get away from
the ground. earth-Moisture wants to
travel up your wall, and a cold
floor wants to suck all the heat
out of you.
Gravel wont rott and it
makes an air-space... which stops
damp and cold problems... alittle.
try also plastic then mud-coated straw
for insulation, each straw is covered
with mud, the mud draws out moisture,
the straw(or any fiber) is airy-space.
news-paper fluff works best.
try next a layer of sand?
(more on floors later)
first...
find or make a site one-foot higher
than any ground near-it, sort-of a
hand-made hill 20x12 feet wide.
note: the word 'block' is used all
over this document and meens a block
8 x 8 x 2 inches.
3 blocks = 2 feet.
-
then start the base-wall:
packed dirt in a figure-8, add
branches, grass, gravel-rock,
to strengthen,fill,concrete it.
keep adding to the pile till its
3.blk.hi.and 2.blk wide at the top.
maybe 4.blk wide at the bottom.
packing it each time you add more.
i just walk on the top of it.
the base-wall is finished.
-
it looks like two big circles
with 8.blk of free-space
inside each.
and a hall-way...
and a door-way...? dont worry.
dirt is forgiving.
-
on top of this big-8 base-wall
you will now start the domes.
i choose an 8th-arch to follow.
(see masonry books - doorways)
also called a ram-horn...
its like a curved triangle...
its not round like a ball...
its steeper... sheds rain better.
like girl-boobs.
here the walls start to bend,
so you cant stand on it.
you will need to make block or
strips of dirt-grass? packed
8 inches wide, 2in.thick and ?.long
after pounding them to size,
peel them off the ground and
place them on the wall,
mortared(glued) together with
a little paste (wet dirt)
if you want hi-quality block you
need to make them two moonths
before you build, one moon to make
them and one moon to dry them.
this uses more water and time and
mixtures are crush-tested
to get the strongest block possible.
and stabalizers 10% cement and
bug-repelents (pine needles? etc)
-
this shelter was designed to take
a week to build, for one-day shels you
can build just one part of it and
do the rest later.
-
it was also designed as a one-month
project. if using hi-quality blocks.
-
it was also designed for the future..!
three-of-these shelters can-be
placed near each other to form a
prarie-wagon like circle of defense...
a six-pointed star... with a
courtyard in the center.
-
still later... when 3 stars have formed,
each star becomes a room...
3 rooms makes a house...
-
but for one-person... two boobs is enuff.
so lets go back to that.
by now your strips of 8x2x?? slabs of
packed dirt-grass mortared with mud
shood be 4.blks high = 2.ft + 8.in
built slowly by going around and around
like a coil or snake and skipping doors
and windows.
keep back and feet bones stiff as possible.
move things as little as possible.
muscle-building books says over-do-it two
days a week, rest and heal every two days.
you can stop here, the dome is half-done.
add the base wall and it must now be
about five-feet tall, the size of most
people.
add the fact that you built it on a hill
adds another foot. so its getting
harder to hide.
-
the next part is what i call... the roof.
i wood choose to put a flat-roof on it,
or a living-roof (grows grass to hide).
or leev it as-is for when not in use,
some small thatch? re-movable t-p can
be placed on each dome to finish it.
-
but if you want the full boob-effect
i wood try making block out of straw-bundles
diped in mud...(a very light block) packed.
cuz remember this part will be going
over your head... and leeve a sun-window.
if using more permanent heavy block i wood
also pin a bed-sheet,afgan, or netting into
the inside of the finished roof...
this is so if block slips or falls you
will see a bulge in the netting and not
a horrible pool of blood from somthing
that droped from the roof and hit you.
dont let mud fool you, it turns deadly.
but warm and earthy if used right.
like people.
-
for the floor i have decided on
plastic(or water-tight clay) on
the gravel,
then a mud-coated straw layer,
then a 3in sand layer,
then block laid like tile...
which can be moved easy.
the sand layer can contain
hot water tubes.
the gravel layer can contain
air-passages for hot-air and
rain-water...
plastic-nylons? around pipes
in ground keep dirt out yet
water rushing away from site.
-
tiles of wood? metal-scraps?
for the exterior outsides will
make a nice skin, think like scales,
think small and easy to re-place.
a wall damaged by rain is not.
the goal: move things as little
as possible.
keep youR back-and-foot-bones
stiff.
-
i am working on a franklin-type
stove that wood pull cool air from
the floor-threw the passages
to the fire and up into the room.
note:the air used by the fire comes from
outside... not from where i breath.
the smoke loops over the franklin-box
down under the base wall and sucked up
a very long flu following the dome.
think of sneezing and choking and thats
what it looks like.
-
im thinking of adding thick block-work
to the flu so the last bit of heat
in the smoke is absorbed and radiated
into the room.
this is done by making the smoke
go zig-zag like an s-shape over the
blocks till its up out of my area.
they are called pennsylvania-dutch,
russian-style lardge-masonry stoves.
one quick-hot fire will keep the room
nice for 4 days.
the black creosote can be used to
preserve wood-in-ground.
you may 'want' a char-coal maker(low air)
becuz of this. and use char for water-filter.
black can paint objects you 'want' to
absorb more heat
white ash can be used to make soap
better a garden or bury seed or other
valuables...note:most preserved things
in archaeology are found burried in ash.
white ash in insulation fibers to protect
from bugs, keep them away or paint on
objects to reflect sunlight into your
windows (when a roof wont let sun in directly.)
-
the right way to make heat is natures
way, solar, chemical, methane, or
vortexed-air. (hilsch-tube) hot and cold.
which im still adding here and there.
-
this is only a structure, every part matters.
but a-home meens somthing else to people...
they dont sense structure. nor the danger.
-
this is also a shelter... a place for dreams.
cozy places is where ideas form.
its a place where people are given a chance.
use it to do better, and to help those who cant.
others wood do the work for you, they just need
space to stop, a place to rest, maybe to
smile again. and be free.
its not funny when you cant. or see them who cant.
-
here are some mental-shelters
you will need these or you wont make it to
any other shelter:
rule number one:
stay with your own gender.
i can save you weeks months years
maybe your life,
just with that warning.
-
rule number two:
evil up-rising hides behind words,
words you wood never suspect nor question:
words like:
authority, relegion, security, insurance
example:
pure relegion is to visit the fatherless,
do you?
pure gospel saves your everlasting soul,
mary, church membership, good works
can not, make Jesu your saviour, not behaviour
pure authority: do to others what you wish
others wood do for you.
pure security: give to the poor, knowledge
or skill, not money.
example: feed a man bread and you feed him
for a night.
teach a man to plant and you feed him for
his life.
-
security: to people now meens i-d-cards
cameras, identification, all forms, all evil.
and will be used against you. cases where
it is used for good only gets you to
accept the evil.
pure insurance: knowing that god does the
saving and the guiding, even the things he
wants going on in your head, its all his
construction-work. the man he wants you to be:
like no one else. by jesu.
insurance: to people now meens: agreements.
we will pay all for you, just give us
a little, and become part of the debt.
whats the catch?... the amount is paid
by passing the debt to another location,
nothing is paid for! national-debt increases.
you sold yourself, when the time is right
the real creditors (running the game) call...
you will meet multi-jurisdictional task-forces
they are from other countries,
they will be at your door,
collecting the debt.
best move: dont make agreements that are binding.
dont pay for somthing you cant settle fully.
without wondering who or what is truly
going to pay for it.
-
-no end-
warnings:
dont worry, my insurance covers it.
you will kick yourself everytime
you hear sombody say that from now on.
let me explain:
insurance: we will pay alot of money,
if you pay us a little money.
sounds good, you get into accidents,
you get a tooth-ache, sombody pays.
but who? do they work? grow food?
sale things to help pay expenses so
you can live off them? nope.
who are they?
lets look very carefully.
you signed an agreement,
you paid a little,
and they paid alot,
but how did they pay?
they didnt.
everyone
(as far as you can see)
is getting
paid off.
but somewhere, someone is giving
the money out.
making everyone debtor to him.
at the right time he can say... umm.
remember all that money i gave you?
you owe me.
and the dead-line has come.
of corse that person will say,
i cannot pay.
i thought all that money was free!
note:they may have agreed to do this
as part of their plan.
now they can attack the insurance
company for running up debts they cant
pay for, all men involved in the company
are sent back to pay the debt.
this includes you, you become their property.
for if you look at the insurance company,
and the debts they made, you will notice a
little catch.
in the agreements to pay is one big person
(the insurance company) and one little person
(you) and hey, they wood not have run up
such a big debt... without you.
now you-also are responsible for this
agreement that failed to pay-up,
and that was their plan from the start:
build-up a imaginary rich-company so you
wood leen on it like a big-brother.
and in turn, make huge debts with him.
and so you sold yourself.
they will be at your door,
collecting the debt.
sale you to a work-camp, and use your
belongings to pay it off.
-
and is it just you? look even closer.
they got everybody!
-
we are living in a bubble of fake-money.
it has value for as long as they say
the dead-line has not come.
but over this bubble, as you may know,
is trillions of dollars of national debt
that stands yet unpaid for. and growing
(thanks to insurance companies and ? )
-
when this bubble breaks...
you will feel the full blunt and power of
a cold-war holocaust.
paint yourself, offer bribes, all useless.
they wont accept you nor your money.
stock-market crash. stores wont want to
see you. bread $100.00 a loaf,
naybors kill naybors, troops wait and sale
whatever is left.
some dont wait! they come to houses to
get you for debts, one at a time.
with full right to take children and
devide property. you got a bad deal.
-
it happens everyday all over the world,
its called...- a bankers dirty secrets -
but some men up higher may be controling
even that. who lives. who dies.
so yep.
if i was you.
i wood think ahead.
smiles and spirits,
wont last long.
its easy to fool people, and give
them a sense of security.
everything looks good on paper.
even evolution.
-
its all recorded, and legal, what they do.
the sad part is God-himself,
accepts the agreements , cuz you made them.
that is why he told joshua -NOT- to make
agreements with the people of this land.
-
1638 1757 1836 1917 1932 1981 1998 2008
some papers expose these tricks.
but they are now re-writing history.
and you dont get time.
-
if it happens in your area today.
you will be hit without mercy.
thats their buisness.
jesu had to find a garden, just to
get away from these creeps.
-
cuz mankind is insane, happy as Cain.
who slew his brother and called it
world-peace.
i am just a person too.
and am trying my best to leed you
away from a big mistake.
-
these guys are experienced.
no signs of violence, no blood,
everybody stays happy to the last moment.
some can feel somthing is
wrong with the system but
they brush it off, cuz only poor-people
talk like that.
-
they sense somthing is about to happen
to the world they built. but cant see it.
not even knowing, they helped pay for it.
-
about the number 8: it meens
in numerology: a new beginning.
in musick: very important
an octave: meens eight.
it represents harmony, melody.
8 colors in the rainbow.
8 direction on a compass.
wholness, completeness,
the start of somthing new.
8 desires to include everything.
for when one person is well.
all the others do well also.
i hope this document finds everybody.
im afraid it did.
-
c-zns1-08.doc - - - - v1-8-08, 9pm, diary of 2006 + 2007 moon weather
moon-papers for 2008 - after this.. dont diary 'weather' anymore.
note:include moons.txt bibl? and 1-5-08 blak-out visions, tribal dictators.
always store by date, re-mix it like-you-want on 'one' paper, but always store by-date...cuz thats how it happened.
this doc is easy-r than typing the entire 2007 diary.
its like a game..if your be-haviour points too...Xyz
you can always jump ahead two-spaces to 'z' and forget all the middle-stuff.
not redy for a 'jump'?...get points you missed....
its like a puzzle-game..if you know the picture, just draw-it-in yourself...forget the pee-sez... somebody-got-paid to scramble things up...to keep you busy.... oR..untill you learn.
paused at: give brief nfo on papers refrd2 in this doc, eg.11-25-06=what?
spaces can-be added between moons and filled-in with things you want to do that year.. watch weather at each to see if you can do it..or not.
- - - -
paper one of four: moons listed by quarters, a 2nd-view:see paper-3of4
12-30-07 review-prefix? of most recent diary-events:the green5-star-book with yellow inner-folders: holding blu-book of practicle living:pvc-solar-nfo,and 2002-2007 foothill,cvl,bvl,dob,o.h.numbers, bible-moons+verses,ret-visions of birds,baths,boys and water-greens-grain,sealant-methane.., motto:collect water and seed, be with them ?? who do, set tasks for boys and girls,make rooms for flocks and birds and strangers too. ??=may not meen human,, - -
and 3-papers:p1:3-9-07 she recks your view of trees,ret. p2:2-13-07:bernsteinbears-house picture,using little-arches as cells to build big-structures..next fill-in cells?, p3:mem of Reeser-trip to m-doct..age.19,, - -
main papers:
1-9-07:2007 goals,area-uses,collection of key-dates: 9-5-07:mixs,water-proof ideas,2-18-07:loose paper of shelter-ideas:hi-lo-lands+sleep, 2-6-07:target-areas devided,10-28-06:loose-paper in Rb.blue-diary?3-06to7-06, 8-19-06:Let others do for-you. Stay-base..for them.,3-31-07:ten-years,5-7-07+2-18-07:target-area methods,1-22+27-07:Moon-papers?3-5-07:contacts, 3-25-07:expect-Loss, 8-10-07:Re-calls of stuff-ds.,3-3-07:life-flashed,11-17-07:2008 plans
- - - - end of 1-9-07 paper
other diaries:RA:lang-arts main 05-06,RB:blue-diary:3-06to7-06,RC:coverless-diary:8-06to1-07,Rd?:green-diary 1-9-07 to 1-9-08 and on...to?
- - - - skimming threw Rd: diary:
1-25:2year plans,mind,examples:historic, Total-time uses for my days life, using 6-21-06:xvizn606.txt on the t-areas selected, content of diares,moon-papers one of seven jan.2007,, - -
11-19=11th.n.m,, - -
19-25=11th n.m.? - -
1-28to 2-3:x-vizn resorted,birds in ice,egg-Foams study,ltr2grl-wasted-time,..sim2brothers-problems,, - -
2-4to2-18(2-18=12th.n.m.):ear,pioneer cook-book:cold-methods,mosquitos,Rain!,insul-off,indoor-days,11th.l.q.filled-barl,ant-brother,, - -
2-19to2-24:f.q.:block-tests,gofer-dead by rains,flu,moon-papers,micro-climate freezes,knife-at-head hidden,, - -
2-25to3-3.f.m:get-u-n-5min.max,meno-bngr-visit,hurt-back,Rainy,dogs hunt you in packs,snow!,wind=unbearable,life-flash,, - -
3-4to3-12th l.q.:geese,doves,needs,not-emo,bngr-stuff.hid,pride,4-circle stick tri-pod in ds-hiland blt,strwbry-grl-musk,, - -
3-14 to 3-23.n.m.: value seeds,lib-cameras,masonic, u.v.nfo,1st.HOT-'day',bud,blow-darts,old-mvl.o.h.bridge, today=18th:lunar-new years eve, two yellow flower cups appear. - -
3-24 to 4-2.f.m.anger,whosoever,moon-bible papers,plermo-meno, internet.vs.gofer-life,one.vs.ten-year view - -
4-3 to 4-10.l.q.: electronics,the great spirit,found-me!,drop-spots,con-art,iron+greens=blood,age.18.wd.crutch,fluff+blossoms, - -
4-11 to 17=2nd.n.m.:peoples attitude,major paved-map-roads of oh-area tour of hills east to hwy49,s threw bridgeport,w to smartsville,n-on mvl-road to.o.h.again. total:130mi..yet bridgeport is only six, bridge out, concentration-filteration-point found at s-end of rices-crossing.,,,78'F:hottest yet,hay-price,raw-meat heals bruises,committed,pick-wick papers,cutr,wind,raid,deep-sout visit,naybor-acts,xvizn,snakes,, - -
4-18to26=f.q.:blog-limit,pine-braid,TOUR-nfo,, - -
4-26to5-2=f.m.:dr.dino.com,n.w.o.,SWEAT!, water-meth-sealant studys,2hr.pr.day=48days.pr.yr=1-7th of your life...missing.from time-plate.,, - -
5-3 to 5-10 =2nd.l.q.:small water-pit tests,falling-worms,shndlr-vhs.,food+war+lust,piano-vhs.,NOTES,gide-hEARt.effects,, - -
5-11 to 16=3rd.n.m.:8$-grain,nuke-winter,, - -
17-23: 3rd.f.q.holocaust+props,the greatest-commandment,support local-food,, - -
24to6-1=3rd.f.m.:summer-camps,see 8-8-07.txt,, - -
6-8.l.q.,15,22,30.f.m.,7-7,7-14=5th..n.m.,22,30,8-5=l.q.,, - -
8-6 to 12=6th.n.m.:closed camps,returned,naybr,mom+bro sick,records of summer camp,help-me=respond,earth-scape.vhs,lucy-girl=got-stuff, explored tour of n-w-facer of ds.water-basin,re-calls.,, - -
8-13 to20:6th.f.q.:work4seeds,encyclopedia-scan for related topics:materials and methods useable in the wilderness,stb-bleeds,2nd.set.quail-chicks..1st=6-1,falling-stars,, - -
21-28:f.m.:domestic-animals,phos,compo,shel-idea,u.n.lib,paint.txt study,eclipse,VERY-HOT,snakes,no-birds,, - -
29to9-4:meth,slept outside,FLOORS study,hot+muggyST + RAIN!,gods-words,digest..,, - -
5-11th=7th.n.m:red-sun,cloudy,hot,ashes on cars,visit into town.nfo=MVL,beauty,naybr-nfo,lib:strawbale-house,menno-meet,pub-schools,deer+skunk+noisy naybrs returned:ear-t,monarch-butterflys!,, - -
12-19:f.q.:hamr907.txt,1+10year-vzn,terrazzo,seeds+binder,priests of..?,naybr-nfo,herbs,tooth,rained,, - -
20-26:7th.f.m:signature+car-reach,dye+adobe,cop@u-k-naybrs,moved-stuff,equinox,Redding-Froze,meno-visit,egg-up,cold+weather-nfo,Agric.,, - -
27to10-3:l.q.:wounds,life-people,bible-esther.dvd,spore-breethr,cells!,Rainy,elderly-pains,lib-copys-ink,A:1,green grasses appearing,, - -
keep water and seed containers clean.
-end of paper one of four-
- - - -
paper two of four:
10-4 to 11=8th.n.m:control=corporations,clouds-changed,earth-houses,lib-copy,cloreen in well?try h202,frost,spiral-season,health-see,bird,glue,bread-war,build-adobe notes,green-grass patches appear,finish-th-story helps you re-mem by giving you a part in it,blak-hat blu-j.re-trn,fornic-never,lib.720-earth-achitecture,cops,spys,poisons,eye-sex diseases,dad insul-sealed door for winter,beatles,flu-cold,no-sun.afternoon.,, - -
10-12to19.f.q.:shel=hEARt-protection..not4sin,not-sex,ret-dream,plrmo-meno.visit,god-hates-you,slavic-garden-mvl-dump visit:ending,red-eyed grl,food-wars,rain-cloudy,insul-warm,wet-nfo,mushrooms! are back,, - -
20-26:f.m.:flys? call-worship devils,visit menno-ate,all is green,3-pod-bal fal,radio-drugs,adobe=5th week study,pge,non-fornic shel,vortex-tube,body-heat,her-PEOPLE-nfo,deep-south visit,fly.cath-bag method,, - -
27to11-1:l.q.:mites,bgr-nfo:greg word,rain+thunder,ground good for digging, mom-ltrs2prisons,pa-dutch,, - -
11-2to9:9th.n.m:repel-plasters,food-war:seedless,bgr-ret,bleach,gopher+mushrooms everywhere,coranda-effect:steam-pot-psi,forgetful=cold,exair.com,, - -
10-17:f.q.rainy,deli-death,last bngr-visit,rainy,inspectors.stir.naybrs,steam,hate1107.txt,lib.,gas$3,all is green,earth never drys,cold-solar!,mold-spores,, - -
18-24:f.m.:geese,traps,pv-cells,o.h.review,stb+nat nfo visited.nfo+sci,help-us, uncl-visited,4bs-twn+bvl visit-nfo!,, - -
25-dec.1:l.q.:birds all sort,freezes at sunset,feeder frozen,j-letr,blood-doll,galeeb on ic.org icdb.org 64nlyi,cd-r:8-8to11-15-07,area-nfo:woodleaf,clay-model,satalite-maps live!,money-triks,, - -
2-9=10th.n.m:bap.ch.visit.nfo,2x2.witness keep,no-grl-10yrs:help man-kind,vteer.opens more doors,much-rain,no.vent,diaries,needs,hoar-frost growing, ice-pits filling,holocaust,women,fornic,, - -
12-10to17:f.q:ret-MOVes,vote-triks,12-12coptr,bird-heart,sex-isnt-love,trap4truth,econo-choke,wemen,ussr,chrst-vs-pepl,care-home money!,ret-mind with god,, - -
18-24=10th.f.m:1dy.of.fornic.bcame10x?,Rainy-nite,grocery-nfo-visit,alcoholic-teens,stormy-days,health+skin,love is a place,no.water,greg-meno,naybr,, - -
25-31:l.q:mosaic-stepping-stones,wal-mart.visitd,man will econo-kill man,THis side of eternity,Rev:9of10will die,Snow!,no man is english?,animals,destiny changed,ag.ch.visit,diary-year repeets here, foudations:tuff-on-rubl,alive-vhs,holocaust2008,, - -
1-1-08 to 8 = 11th.n.m.:eye-wars,purge-to-grow the people,xvizn08=site+time4water+seed,adoption,your food-print,shel-site visit, great hike-weather one-week+afternoons,scream-cold at night,no-sun days are back! bad-storm,power-out,, - -
- - - -
1-27-07:easter ds-area changes:4-16stop-to8-16:start hiking again, with 2006 heat-waves nfo. ,,,,time wasted:computer,vhs,fornic,mags,do better!,,1st-moon always contains Easter,,,,q-change:shelter-building stopped by heat..change to new cooler locations, out of sun. or into it again.,,diary:dates,weather,events,maps,mind,people,materials+methods,do-donts,studies,goals,time-plate,mem, all-stored-by-date,,,,studies2006:indoor and heat-wave times very important to expect,,,,note:everything happens two-weeks? ten-days earlier each year(on sun-calendar), except after leap-moons(2008 will have a thirteenth moonth:adar2) when moon-calendar behaviour re-starts 28 days later than the year before.,,,, - -
eg.1-19-07 IS 1-8-08..but 1-8-08 will be 2-8-09 if a 13th moon was added.
compare with 1-22-07 moon-weather paper.five, updated to 1-4-08,,,,1-15-07:ice-pits frozen..but with no water under them..is sim2 rainy cold spell of drying pits 1-1-07,,,,2-22-07:also re-counts a ten-day diff in snow-time from mar.3.2006=3-3-06 and 3-31-07,,
actualy:25-31,12-10to17 etc...is not 'that' moon quarter, but the last day starts it... i dont know why i displayed it that way. -end-
the next papers have moon quarters,weeks that 'start' with the date,not end.
- - - -
brief record of 2007 weather, using the above papers merged with 1-22-07 2006 weather-paper: note 2008 will have 13 moons, 2006 + 2007 moons have bin placed together, but not mixed? in the following nfo below, and listed as-it happens? so good hike-days will always seem to follow rains and storms, and other noticable patterns.
10.nm:stormy+hike days,fq:storms root-shoots ice hail,fm:sink-pools,ice-grass,sundowns-freez,lq:hi-winds,out-house warm!(day-time only),rains,hike-days,, - -
11.nm:shvt.1-29+19+8:small ring over dry ice-pools,drenching,green-plants stunted by rains?,flu-cold near floors,sick-spells,flu,vapor-breeth sick,green-patches,hikes till even.,,fq:hot-sun burns,soil broken by ice lift, birds cant get to water,,fm:no-sun + flys,rainy3days,dads insul-down,dust,,lq:howl-wind,cold-puffs,glad4ndoors.n.d.,hiland-visits,creek-flows,rattler,ravens, - -
12.nm:Adar1+2?feb2-27+17+6:shel-making,snowd!,glad4indoors,,fq:hurt-back,rain+snow,visit grbrs,pine-nuts,hail,,fm:rain+clear+much water,,lq:hard-rains,1st.HOT-'day',plant corn,tomatoes=st.patricksday,explord old mvl-brdg+hike-up berg.top,, - - -
1st.nm:lunar new-year:nisan3-29+19+7:read 3 bibl-books for each moon..1st-3 are:Josua,Job,Hosea,,,,rains,gofers,direct-sun,shels!,spores,filld-tanks,bogs,make-block?,sticks mark mini-streams crossing over paths,Heavy rain-day+rainbow,,fq:dew,q-change,cold thunders,rainy,pedlers-fair,,fm:rains+cold clear,shels,stop by mvl-brdg,Easter,fluff-balls,apple-blossoms,mini-leaves,geese,cold-morn and hot-days = flux,vine-leafs,tall-grass,air-dif,Easter,,Lq:yellow flowers,hike:deep-south visits,mosquito+ants,, - -
2nd.nm:iyar 4-27+17+6 = 06:4-27, 07:4-17, 08:4-6, note:2008 has 13 moons so 2009 will be 4-27 again?
- - - -
paper 3 of 4, 1-4-08, 2006+7 weather, when looking for time of year by the weather presently outside your window...look at re-lated moonth\quarter\date on these moon papers, and also quarters\moonths before and after it to see which is more similar to what you are experiencing.. records only relevant to elevation and location in which they were recorded... but anyone reading will find a helpful pattern to follow when guessing how to spend next-year, and be weather-wise..,, - -
2nd.nm:iyar 4-27+17+6 = 06:4-27, 07:4-17, 08:4-6, note:2008 has 13 moons so 2009 will be 4-27 again?,,geese,hikes,pond-dry,,fq:all is green,no dry soil,no wet,1st ds creek dry,but big+west creek still runs,ponds drying,trumpet flowers,deep-south visits,dr.dino.com,sweat!,brlz-fill,heat-sun weakens me,mosquito,knock-out heat, Q-change,,fm:tired all day:heat?worms,diet,radiation?,ret-gods draw a gide,,lq:pray,bvl-visited,cold mornings,, - -
3rd.nm:sivan.may 26,16,5:stuff4bvl,kloss book,tile,deer,orvl,,fq:grass dry,gone to seed..from mar.2nd,but green below dead stems,bvl,A:1,flowers,blood-thistle,blk-bry-blossoms,my-creek(ds-w)stagnate,but deli-runs,wild-pea in blk-pods,mosquito bites when cool,1st-very-hot-day,,fm:fields mixed dry-yellow and green patches all seed sort trying to mature b4 dry-season deeps cool-cloudy days,,lq:2nd.crop white-fluf,dragon-flys,suns-equinox,lines of green in dry fields where streams were, knock-out heat-wave,eyes-itch,fox-tail weeds in cloth,, - -
4th.n.m:tammuz.june.25,15,3:heat-waves terra-fying,stay cool in deli-pools evap,green blk-brys,VERY-hot rocks, all is dry,geomancy+masaai tribe studys,a:2,hot till even,tree cutters,,fq:lib.book studies:indoors4heat-waves,,fm:bvl,bngr:knock-out heat,cannot move,all very dry,but humid,blk-brys ripe,bngr:grass2dry2use,creeks running,leevs dying burnt,see 7-10-06 xvizn,cold mornings,dry pond has grass by dew,mosq-worms live in your lymph-glands,frogs from polywogs saved in can,important indoor studies papers,w-ds.area explored.,,lq:ds-heat-waves,lib+pond,bvl:a-3:visits,, - -
for related moon-tones see 1-26-07 ten-papers in green 2007 diary,
5th.n.m:AV.july.24,14,3:no-news,camping:bvl,day-time works paused,,fq:many studies,barl,iodine,blog,ravens returned,soybeans pods from may?:grew in caged-earth,thunder+rain day,,fm:Hottest week in history,naybr-violence,fire-coptrs,more-study!,papers-dhumidifiers,,lq:meth,fires,copter,blk-bry-ds.ripe,cvl?,bvl2o.h.came,p.c.re-call,mex.corn.hi!,, - -
6th.n.m:Elul:august.22,12,1st:frat-camp visits+maps!,falling-stars,block-making ends in 60days=thnks-gvn,nite-time works end:town-trips,knock-out heat,now work fall-shells till 9th.moon,windy and cloudy today,enema,green acorns,grapes ripe,ice-maker studys redy4paper,blog-town-teen-tears,help-us,, fq:grapes+blk-bry.ds,no-p.c.!,mapper-plane,visits2deli-pools,bright-mornings,noons:radiation too much, paint807.txt studys,,fm:shel by pools,rock visits near ag.deen,deli,thanks4d.s.,dewrm,got deli-cardbrd,mud-shel.nfo,atv's,very hot,no birds,meth stinks,snakes,corn-floor-nfo,hottest-muggyest day ever, but rained!, dew+a.c.studys,, lq:storage-spots,galic-pill,mud-shell.BUT.not water-proof,poison,snake,sun-red till noon,fire?,ash on cars,mvl-town visit,no-water-at.ds.,orvl-lib green-building book,revival-week meets at bngr-grngs?by bgr-menno, deer skunk animals returned after dark,naybrs musick too.,monoarch butterflys,, - -
7th.n.m:Tishrei.september.22,11,aug.30:water-maker?,tile-on-shel?,n.d.studies, naybr-nfo, buzzards circle,u.v.deadly sun,,fq:rain-cloudy,but no rain,mud-sheet shell,no-sun,yet-no-water,Big-rains came,water-maker study paused till 9th-moon:dec.2,signat-denta-scam,UFO-sitings,sun-equinox,eggs-stand on end at 12-noon,close winter-camps?,redding:froze-snowd,very cold-damp morning,q-change to sun-sites again,tiny-birds,health,,fm:wntr-day-lite projects till 9th moon:dec.2,heavy morning dew,leaves are every-where and in trees,UFO,lib.genocide,wounds,Eshther-vhs,spores,windy,rug-day?,rainy,green grass sprouts under dead ones,,lq:clean-heater?, well-diggers,stock-market crash1987,dew found under bag of my stuff, at noon!,clouds changed to big rolling type ones:puffs with black-bellies,day of sparkly frost on every thing ground?,patches of green grass appearing,pointy-hat blu-js returned,finish the story...leev missing parts for others to color in..to re-mem man-kind better than you found it,, - -
where is jewish-moonths showing seasons of activity? rains,reap,sew,tillage,vintage-time,etc. only two places in the world can grow olives: Israel and California
- - - -
paper four of four
8th.n.m:Cheshvan:october.21.11.sep.29:Fiery Red-Yel.trees dot all lands.reveeling dif.tree.types,green-patches,leaf-paper everywhere,no'BIG'rains yet, cold mornings, to-cold out after Sunset..til late-morning,ds-igloo-2005,deer-died in one-week:no water, p.c.(computr)studies,,dew:found water? on hi-rock, on metal-oxides, under-rocks,eye-sex,trlr-insul4wntr,beatles,lib.notes:architecture,wise-word, palrmo-menno-nfo,Rained pools here,all grass dry,slavic mvl-dump gardens ending,lib,why?time-indoors?n.d,flu-cold,no-sun after-noon,red-eye girl,smile - god hates you: trak,,fq:pagan new-year,canot build with-these people,no mind of you,flu-shots gov contaminated,very Rainy,ripe-plants mustard,warm,cloudy,mushrooms are back,no flys till poo=hi.c.h,menno, all is green again,brown 3-ball husk pod on ground,adobe-studys,p.g.e:sprayed poles chemicals,crickets!,skunk,lib.,,fm:deep-south visit,planted gspel traks,Rain+thunder,ground good for digging,gofer-burrbia,letrs2prisoners by bibl-correspondance,cold-mornings,all is green,prize-day2bngr-meno,nadar-khalili book-notes:earth architecture, www:no-more-web,birds planting acorns,1st.cold-fog!,coldest night of the year:montana:16'C,Rainy,hoar-frost on all,thick-ice,very cold-spell today,,lq:cutters:no1stopd2live-dif.so they cood live2.,wet gold-leaves every-where..on green-grass shoots,wounded-turkey at mud-sheet hut, hunters,Rainy,wet-smell dirt,germ-count in air=hi=humid.,p.g.e,bite-bone cold at sunset,mushrooms back,cold feels damp,spores in air,quartz-white-rock has odd bloody-look today, very bad-fog that night, germ-spores like to live in your lymph-nodes,de-worm on friday-nites,plant-wheat?,seen all o.h.=hike?,quilts:bvl.pona.comu,save seed,clock-bak1hr2day,dntst,gas,eat-clay,clean-air.,, - -
9th.n.m:Kislev:november.19,9,oct.28:all is freezing + wet,animals under house,hard-rain,icy-cold,igloo-pit yet empty,eat-ruffage,chili+vit-c.,thnks-givn froze all,tea, Rainy, pond-filling, bad.germ.air,make good things for others:copy 11-25-06,Rainy,get pay-job?,active outside?till supper-time:evening tide,gas=3$,earth never dries, cold-solar=reflecting at night,olives ripe, mold spores,,fq:white?morning, burning-cold,killer-cold,wolves,hoar-frost has 'tilled' the ground by up-freezing it, p.c.-me-n.d.starts2day,persimmins ripe-picked,no sun,wear damp-boots-now..not shoes:to wet outside,dental,money or needs?what is money?not human?,,p.v.cells visit,paint,ash,disinfect hair,tea-tree oil,,,,2007:all is green,but stays damp,cold solar,geese,dental,big mushrooms.lifting dirt,no 'dry'ground ever,strange-book'hurricane'how2-nfo11-22,uncl-came2vist.with wood,,
- fm:2006:cool cold damp all day,wet rocks under dry ones, parts of ground lifted by frost,wet leaves,dead-looking trees:no leaves,time of Rot and Rust,flu-sicl wars,,,-frogs croak,Rain,pond full,ditch runs,all is super-cold soaked, RH=120%Rainy,bone-cold,,,2007:4rbs-xmas cold after-noon,mandarin ripe,kathys-corner:rug-girl,freezes at sunset,water-feedr frozen.letr-2j,car-rek=bloody-rag-doll,Israel-born,clay-models dug,dds fires-stove,woodleaf.o.d.school,,
- Lq:2006:L.F.grange,still raining,streams overflowings,paths sinking,bone-cold(when rains pass),storm winds,feedr-froze over too..almost,deadly-cold,,2007:bad-fog,bad-floods,much-rain2day,, - -
10th.N.M:Tevet:december.19,9,Nov.27: no-light + low-light, mental block,body-clock knocked-out,short days,misery,sloctice.2day!+Rain,Stormy all night.Rain,cold-dry morning under ds.trlr+stedy breeze,,vvery stormy-wind, dark cloudy, no-dry, no-calm,, - 2007:Hoar-grass Frost growing lifts dirt, ice-pits filling, 12-12 copter,Rain!after dark at end of week,, -
F.Q.:bright-lights:man-made + bird-noises help-mental in these dark-times, horribly-icy weather, no-way out, damp frozen sickness,, - 2007:cyen-pepr.tea, Rock-fell to Fornic-nfo, stormy-DAYS, no running-water in house, make darts, 12-22 solctice,, -
F.M.:2006+7:big beets in ds.garden in apple-tree'caged-earth', pine-walnut-shel-tea,ds-well.stopd.again,, - 1-07: fair outside for work weather..BEtween-days and hours of cold-flu wet-windy suprises, dew5-06-nfo,next:cant describe it..like breething ice!, head-painful weather, wish i was dead, way-way-to-cold night: like hands held in freezer and cant puLL out..next year+same time..HAVE places to get-out of this.,, - 12-07:stb-nfo:lak.of.iron and dehydration causes depression in wemen,caroling-kids,Lusty-Tales,got gift:mosaic stepping stones kit,, - 1-07:stones at gate still collect dew at sunset..dripping..like the roof did at summer-camp bvl, seed-nfo, the big-four edibles:grasses,cattails,pine-tree,acorn, no dangerous look-alikes, dew-nfo:metal rusted barl over new-well.ds.is soaked at morning,,gate-pole is wet,base is dry.,,12-28-07:Snowed! Rain, next: good hike days,, - -
L.Q:1-11-07:strange wind-cold,body-shaky, jello-nfo, to-cold near the floor..in ds.trlr, ice is 4in.thick,rex-nerd.blogspot.com,tree-ring ice-ponds with no water under the ice layer..,, 12-31-07:Diary Repeats -HERE-, sinky-foundations?, VHS'Alive'=plane-crash in mtns..people-eatn-people, visited shell-area..good dig-day + weekb4, next day:storms,night-sweats,black-outs,pools-creeks flow, skunk-sick,green-grass stagnated by over-watering, damp-cold freezes, new-year plans, o.H.forced to live Amish3days, no-p.g.e., 1-5-08 visions came. ,, -
11th N.M:Shevout: began.
-end of paper four of four 1-6-08
- - - -
check-compare above with paper for 'skips', how much food wood it take to sit a guy down for a year so he cood write all this? ...help other too do what you enjoyed...nites of lights and warm..let one place, grow to one-thousand..with...
-no end-
www.childsworld.org
www.thinkgreenbuilding.com
other possible Ret-Trails:
lions-community clubs
boyscouts,4-H's clubs
Ren-fair, heirloom seed-growers
camps:young-life.org?
outdoor-survival groups?
courses
outfitter people
pak-animal trips
bree1-08.txt - - - - v2-5-08 1pm .TRUE-LOVE.
if i cood breeth life.
into a girl...i wood say:
Locate and Support
cng-farms in your area.
c.ertified n.aturaly g.rown
www.victoryseeds.com
www.duntonfarms.com
IAM impressed by attitude.
preserve the future. -!-
one seed at a time.
-
i know things are reeel
reeel.bad.rite.-NOW-
but if i cood breeth life.
into a girl...
i wood say:
find-make-protect water
and seed sources...
every-thing else...
even other folks, will
fall into place.
for you.
i
i did find a good-one:
www.localharvest.org
-
-
-
found another.
www.survivalblog.com
-
found another:
urbanscout.org
-
http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/index.php
and we got guests coming over...
www.urbanscout.org
survivalistbooks.com\ groups
farmersonly.com
www.homesteadingtoday.com goto the
countrystyle tree forum at 'homesteading today',
www.craigslist.org
Wow! lactos fermentation!
pickling?
no heat-required?
methods of canning
preseving food...
thinking about buring the
naybors horse for eating it later.
its either that or people.
1 person will eat seven..
thats the death-count ifff
grocery-stores colapse now.
ie.all grain in western-canada
was shipped to asia.
so you can put 'made in china'
on disasters also.
-
www.prepareordie.com
svi608p2.txt - - - - v6-17-08 6pm notes from reading 5+6-08 survivalblog.com + print-partsjump tO:
1sorts - a list of related? gotten and listed as-found.by date?
2print - notes clipd for print...reduce for future prefix?
3prefx - shows content of 1sorts
paused at 28gooda.txt (start)
- - - - 1sorts:
notes start 5-18?-08 on 10 + 10 + 2 papers:
- first-time-notes = 2 papers,
6-2-08:28rad.txt - radiation. 1?
6-3-08:28retr.txt - retreat opttions.2p
6-6-08:28self.txt - self - sufficiency. 2p
6-6-08:feula+b.txt - feul options.1p
6-7-08:urbanscout.org + maydn stuff.1p
6-8-08:28charity.txt - items4barter.4p
6-9-08:svi606.txt main-page (as of 6-08).2p
unch.txt underground-church movment
6-10-08: earlier downloads svi1234567.txt
from 5-18-08 are finly cawt on notes.4p
6-10-08:feulb.txt - feul options.3p
total: 22papers...
6-12-08:28food.txt - food storage.2p
paused at 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to
put start notes-on-computer. not paper.
see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
- - -
possible order of note-making: (as-is = as-found)
28rad.txt survivalblog.com\5-29-08\radiation link\ nfo:5-16-08 to 2-1-2006
28retr.txt retreats groups? survivalblog.com 5-25-08 to 5-13-06
28self.txt survivalblog\self-suffeciency data 5-21-08 to 2-2-06
28feula.txt survivalblog\feuls? 5-28-08 to 8-24-07
28feulb.txt survivalblog\feuls? 8-18-07 to 4-21-06
28food.txt re-got a-f, notes ended at.b, started: b?-f
28outdo.txt survivalblog\outdoor nfo 5-6-08 to 1-27-06
28gooda.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-25-08 to 12-2-07
28goodb.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 12-2-07 to 5-16-07
28goodc.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-16-07 to 1-27-06
6-12-08:new related? stuff
14 + 14b ?
6-19-08:got? more related?
got: some paper-notes(see 'get'parts) of reading 28rad to 28food-b
-end-
- - - - 2print:
parts my-notes say to print
are parts most useful to me
(avoiding most gun + engine nfo)
and not 2sim2what i have alredy.
somewhere.
-end-
paused at 28foodb.txt:
1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to
put start notes-on-computer. not paper.
see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
continues here:
28outdo.txt: survivalblog.com\outdoor skills?
Tuesday May 6 2008Letter Re: Ropes and Knot Tying
Rope is an incredibly useful thing, both in everyday life and in a SHTF situation: it can be used in combination with a tarp and two trees to construct a makeshift shelter, can lift or pull objects, can secure objects to prevent them from moving, it can make snares and traps to catch food, and so on. One can even tie their shoes!
However, when tied with clumsy or inadequate knots, rope can be incredibly dangerous. The common square knot can fail if sideways (relative to the length of the rope) tension is applied to one of the working ("free") ends. Certain knots can weaken rope['s breaking strength] by more than 40%, which can be a dangerous condition in and of itself.
For light duty (tent cord, tying things down, etc.), military-style 550 [nylon parachute] cord is incredibly useful. For heavier load-bearing uses, ---ow they're done (they show examples of around 75 specific knots) via clearly photographed animations.
--One item that bears special mention is the rappelling carabiner. Commonly just called a "biner"--and called a "snap link" by the US military--these have umpteen uses for attaching/lifting/slinging/securing loads and acting like a pulley (or providing greater rope friction by adding multiple coils of rope, which of course relates to their originally-intended purpose for rappelling. I recommend buying a half-dozen (or more), with at least two of them with thumb screw-type locking gates.OBTW, avoid the flimsy pseudo-carbiners that are sold as key ring holders. (Thankfully, nowadays most of these are stamped "Not for Climbing Use".) We keep several carabiner in our ATV's cargo bag, along with a 150 foot coil of rope, and a pair of Jumar ascenders. When used in conjunction with our ATV's electric winch, this gear has proved immensely useful for tasks around the ranch, and particularly when packing big game uphill.
---JWR Replies: Given the mild climate on the California coast, a water filter is much more important than cold weather gear for your next purchase. I recommend the American-made Aqua Rain brand. These are similar to the Big Berkey (imported from England), but they only cost half as much. (The US Dollar's recent slip versus the British Pound has sadly further widened this price gap.)---Tuesday March 25 2008
My Seven Favorite North American Edible Wild Plants, by Paul C.
In light of the impending economic and social crisis, a knowledge of edible wild plants is essential. I have included a list of seven easily recognized p---Before listing my seven choices, please keep these facts in mind: (1) an individual may be allergic (or develop an allergy to) any of these plants. Initially consume them in moderation. (2) although a plant may be easily recognized during its flowering stage, this is often NOT the time they are collected for food. Use sources with color photos (not drawings) of a plant at various stages of its life cycle to aid identification. (3) In addition to field guides and on-line sources, consult a botany reference to become familiar with botanical terms.
At the end of this discussion, I have included both on-line references as well as field guides from my own personal collection. While you may not be i---(1) Plantain- broadleaf plantain is found on lawns throughout the continent. It has broadly elliptical leaves that rise directly from the root in a formation known as a basal rosette; these leaves remain close to the ground. This plant can be eaten as a salad or boiled in soups (the latter is preferred when the plant gets older-at this point the leaves become stringy). Plantain leaves are rich in vitamins A and C, and minerals. Narrow-leaf plantain is also edible and is similar in appearance except for the shape of the leaves. Fresh leaves can also be mashed and applied to minor wounds.
(2) Common Purslane- Purslane is also found on lawns throughout North America. This plant barely reaches an inch off the ground. It has fleshy, jointed stems (purplish- green with a reddish tinge), and narrow, thick leaves about two inches long growing in opposite directions. The stems contain a clear fluid (Spurge, a poisonous plant that looks similar to Purslane, has milky sap). The best way to harvest this plant is to cut off only the leafy tips; it will rapidly sprout again and provide greens from May until the first frost. It can be used in soups or salads.
(3) White Oak Acorns- The leaves of a typical white oak have rounded lobes which are never bristle tipped (as opposed to red or black oak). After shelling acorns, they must be boiled to leech out tannins (in high concentrations, tannins damage the kidneys—tannins are also found in tea). The yellowish-brown water left over from leeching is a good topical remedy for poison ivy rashes; it is also styptic—it will stop bleeding. Leeching takes several hours—change the water each time it becomes yellowish-brown. After leeching, the acorns can be dried in a slow oven. They can be eaten or ground into a fine meal. This meal can be mixed with flour to extend your supply; acorn meal lacks gluten and will not make dough rise. The acorns of other oaks, while requiring a longer leeching period, are also edible.
(4) Maple Trees- people think of maple syrup, but the liquid extracted from a tapped maple tree is potable. The “keys” (winged seeds) can be boiled or roasted, while the leaves can be used in salads. In emergencies, the inner bark can also be consumed.
(5) Wild Rose- this plant is widely distributed throughout the continent. Few foods have a higher vitamin C content. The rose-hips (seed pods) can be used to make jams or dried and used for soups or teas. They remain on the plant throughout winter and can be picked when other food is not available. The seeds within rose-hips can be ground and boiled in water to provide a rich source of vitamin E. Rose flowers and leaves can also be used to make tea.
(6) Lamb’s Quarter- this plant, which thrives throughout most of the U.S., is regarded as among the most delicious of wild edibles (similar to spinach). It is available from
spring to the first frost. This plant is generally 3-5 feet tall with diamond shaped leaves; the leaves have irregular teeth or shallow lobes when mature (immature plants have spade
shaped, toothless leaves). The undersides of the leaves are often coated with a thick whitish-gray powder. Bffore cooking, water will not wet these leaves.
(7) Cattails- this is an easily recognizable plant of swamps and marshes throughout the world. It is a year round food source. The leaf bases can be harvested from mid spring to early summer. The immature spikes can be boiled and served with butter like corn on the cob during early and mid summer. Cattail pollen requires little processing once gathered (except for sifting) and can be combined with flour stores; it is collected during June and July. The cores of the underground rootstocks are a valuable source of starch (especially during winter)- waders or a wetsuit would be a good investment for winter harvesting. Finally, small sprouts begin to form at the tip of the rootstocks between early summer and early fall
Use the following listed sources for more information about these wild edibles. Also keep in mind that this is only the tip of the iceberg; there are hundreds of wild edibles waiting to be utilized—good luck!
References:Thayer, Samuel. The Forager’s Harvest. Ogema, Wisconsin: Forager’s Harvest, 2006
Angier, Bradford. Feasting Free on Wild Edibles. Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: ---The hobo's slept in small dugout caves in the woods and would never steal from us. But they would steal chickens from a couple of our neighbors. --- hanging around. I was amazed on how they could start fires, cook, a lot of them always carried fishing tackle made up of hooks, sinkers, and line, used frog gigs with branches, set traps using snares. I used to hang around with these guys just to watch them. In turn I would sneak out some cans of be---I can understand Doc learning from the homeless that stay in the shelter he works at. - Randy in Asheville, NC
---2) Staying Clean - Walgreen's sells a shower head on a short hose with a rubber adapter to connect to a faucet. They are meant for cleaning pets or dishes in the sink, but can also be used to shampoo your hair in a convenience store bathroom. The homeless man who showed me this trick said that if your hair is clean, you appear clean. This helped him find temporary jobs.
3) Self Defense - One man carried a sports bag with a Ka-Bar sheath knife inside. He could hold the sheath through the bag with his left hand, while drawing the knife through the open top of the bag with his right hand. Yet another had a Colt .45 in his bag.
4) I was told that a roll of toilet paper soaked in lighter fluid, charcoal starter, or alcohol makes a good improvised cooking fire.
5) Another guest showed me his cache that was buried by the river. It was a pair of five gallon plastic buckets, buried by rocks and hidden behind some trees in a remote area. One was filled with food, the other with cooking utensils. I doubt that this was his only stash.
---
Consider volunteering at a homeless shelter. You may be surprised what the r---I clicked on this link from your site, JOTW - Home Made Vegetable Oil Lamp. This got me to thinking about something I read about and tried once, some years ago. Take a tangerine, and using a knife, cut the nub off of the top, to expose the fruit, and using a spoon, separate the fruit from the peel and the segments from each other, leaving the sting like " pith " that runs from top to bottom, down the center of the segments, connected to the bottom. After letting the thing dry a bit, the pith is cut a bit to act as a free standing " wick ", a bit of olive, vegetable, or corn oil is put in, leaving about 1/4" of the pith above the oil to light. If it soaks up the oil enough, the lamp can be made to last quite a while for survival needs.
If you go to the extreme in a survival situation, a lamp could be fashioned from natural clay like the ones seen in the Middle East that have been made the same way since biblical times. . Many thanks to Hawaiian K. for the link. I like to try some of these type preparedness do-it-yourself projects from time to time to learn a new skill that may help me and my family some bad day. - Dim Tim---1.) We take no UPS deliveries at our house. Nearly all of our mail-ordered---2.) We don't subscribe to any shooting or hunting magazines. We get all of---3.) We access all web pages via Anonymizer, with no exceptions.scroogle-scrapper---4.) Most of of our preps purchases are either made F2F, with cash, or with Post Office Money Orders if ordering by mail. This eliminates the "trail of paper" from writing checks or using a credit card. We buy a lot from Nitro-Pak, Ready Made Resources, Major Surplus, and Lehman's.
5.) All of our guns, ammunition, gun gadgets, targets, and cleaning supplies are bought "private party", mainly at SoCal [(Southern California)] gun shows. Also, needless to mention, these are greenback transactions only! In California, we can still at least buy rifles and shotguns that are more than 50 years old without having to buy through a [licensed] dealer. ---6.) We signed up for an identity theft and credit report checking protection plan three years ago. I noticed that SurvivalBlog just started running an ad from Comprehensive Risk Solutions. Their service has more bells and whistles and a lower subscription cost that our current provider, so we will switch [---7.) We use a TracFone whenever calling a mail order vendor. (No calling history paper trail.)
8. ) We don't mention our preps to anyone outside of our family. We have coached our kids from an early age to keep their lips zipped.
9.) Whenever we have anybody visit our home, the basement door stays closed and locked. (It is a keyed deadbolt lock.) The basement has no windows. Most o---10.) We don't leave anything "suspicious" out where it can be seen in our house and garage. ---These precautions might seem kinda "over the top", but put yourself in my shoes. In the People's Republic of California it pays to be a bit of a Secret Squirrel. I does cost me about $300 per year to get my mail and packages at the UPS Store, but I consider that a small price to pay for my privacy. I p---Thursday February 7 2008
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a r---tt----
Thursday February 7 2008
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main (or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.) Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly, some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of the following in great detail)
Water ListFood Storage ListFood Preparation ListPersonal ListFirst Aid /Minor Surgery ListNuke Defense ListBiological Warfare Defense ListGardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation ListHunting/Fishing/Trapping ListPower/Lighting/Batteries ListFuels ListFirefighting ListTactical Living List..Security-General..Security-Firearms..Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List..Sundries List..Survival Bookshelf List..Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
Water List
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.)
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter. (Available from Ready Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good filter could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent letter from David in Israel on this subject.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing, and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or 6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying. They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr. Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
Personal List
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected to arrive at your retreat.)
Spare glasses. Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Birth control. Keep dentistry up to date. Any elective surgery that you've been postponing Work off that gut. Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games, CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies. Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit (inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.) This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter), rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects), duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI) tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Disinfectants
Hand Sanitizer
Sneeze masks
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
Gardening List
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up, it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation.
Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The Ark Institute
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea (purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Hygiene/Sanitation List
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight, but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.Ladies’ supplies.Toothpaste (or powder).
Floss.Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.) Sunscreen.
Livestock List:
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic, carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads, leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets, bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools, et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF.
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
One proviso: In the event of a “grid down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power, it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night. At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets. Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.)
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas. If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator. (And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog posts.
Fuels List
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns, underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case, do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.) Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas. If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves, goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in a hurry.
Firefighting List
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) andthe prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water volume for firefgghting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now, stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie suits post-TEOTWAWKI.
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.)
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Mosquito repellent.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat, plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS) made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house
Subdued flashlights and penlights.
Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or perhaps a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject)
Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior obstacles (fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road cables, rosebush plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic protection (personal and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms, anti-vehicular concrete “planter boxes”, razor wire, etc.)
Starlight electronic light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat security.
A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low ambient light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into daylight--albeit a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification technology was first developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue Third Generation (also called or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight scopes can cost up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology scopes can often be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy optics) can be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric generator instead of batteries is the best----the relationship and implications to IR illuminators and tritium sights.
Range cards and sector sketches.
If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute maps, with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on an oversize map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of all of your surrounding neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a five mile radius. (Get boundary line and current owner name info from your County Recorder’s office.) Study and memorize both the terrain and the neighbors’ names. Make a phone number/e-mail list that corresponds to all of the names marked on the map, plus city and county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack it up right next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military commander’s map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but remember, you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you get to know your neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of them when in town, you will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about two miles up the road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?” They will be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.”
Security-Firearms List
Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning equipment, carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing tools, targets and target frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol should have at least six top quality (original military contract or original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines. Note: Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use, and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs.
Communications/Monitoring List
When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power or rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be recharged from your retreat’s 12 VDC power system without having to use an inverter.)
As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you can afford them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect them from EMP.
If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12 VDC marine band radios. These frequencies will probably not be monitored in your region, leaving you an essentially private band to use. (But never assume that any two-way radio communications are secure!)
Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training, use, security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and logistical support will be covered in forthcoming blog posts.
Tools ListGardening tools.Auto mechanics tools.
Welding. Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.”
Woodworking tools. Gunsmithing tools. Emphasis on hand powered tools.
Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel.
Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone colors).
Sundries List:Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or that you might need if the local hardware store were to ever disappear: wire of various gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts, weather stripping, abrasives, twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera.
Book/Reference List
You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as Carla Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is because these books are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t want to risk lending out your only copy.
Barter and Charity List
For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable, non-perishable, and either in small packages or that are easily divisible. Concentrate on the items that other people are likely to overlook or have in short supply. Some of my favorites are ammunition. [The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it as “ballistic wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver. Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that are still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get plenty of .22 LR (most high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local favorite deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own a rifle chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of the local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge.
Ladies supplies.
Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table salt.)
(Stores indefinitely if kept dry.)
Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be available after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like liquid gold!)
Gas stabilizer. Diesel antibacterial additive.
50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses).
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or similar) lubricant. Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry bags"). Thermal socks.
Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.)
Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts, holsters, magazine pouches, et cetera.) Pre-1965 silver dimes. 1-gallon cans of kerosene. Rolls of olive drab parachute cord.
Rolls of olive-drab duct tape. Spools of monofilament fishing line.
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows, isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who recommended the following:
Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them waterproof.)
Playing cards. Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.) Rope & string. Sewing supplies. Candle wax and wicking.
Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business. Some that you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance repair, gun repair, locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have at least one home-based business (preferably two!) that they ca depend on in the event of an economic collapse.
Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity.
Note: See the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for lengthy lists of potential barter items.
----number one mantra "If you are in trouble and cold and have no shelter, and no means to make one, don't ever sit down until you can find shelter."---own low expectations. But even if FEMA had been able to provide more food and water, you would still be much better off taking care of yourself. Do you really want to be told what possessions you can hold, when to eat, when to sleep, and live in close quarters with thousands of strangers? Sounds like prison to me.---Thinking about these things may be scary but itwwill be less scary when it actually happens if you have thought it through. Focus on what you can do to improve things and not on what you cannot change. Thinking can also be more long term as in learning and planning. I suggest you read some of the---in the wilds and that is miserable. For me, a hat and sunglasses are indispensable. I try to always carry at least a light water resistant jacket or poncho (with a garbage bag as a backup). For me, boots are the only sensible walking shoes. Find some that are rugged and comfortable. Have extra laces and a backup pair.
You can carry a tent, a tarp or garbage bag for resting and sleeping. A tarp can make a simple shelter or an elaborate one. Rope, twine and tape are also useful. You can carry some type of staff or tent poles or make them with an ax or saw. Mosquito netting is necessary in some places.
You should have many ways to start a fire since most are cheap and compact. At least have a lighter, matches, and flint. You can also build a firebed to sleep in if you have inadequate shelter from the cold---and you are not near a river or lake.
Used plastic soda bottles and orange juice jugs with screw tops make very convenient water storage containers. Just rinse them a few times with hot water. Old liquor bottles and wine box bladders work well too. I also have several canteens and rugged 5 gallon containers with taps. The five gallon containers weigh about 40 pounds each and are about as big as can be easily moved (larger drums can go in your basement or garage or under a rain spout). A few collapsible containers might also be useful because they can be stored and carried empty. Tap water can last for years without going bad if kept in a cool dark place. But you should check water that has been stored for clarity and odors. If in doubt, treat it with one of the methods below. You can also freeze the plastic soda or orange juice containers (these do crack sometimes when freezing) and use them in a cooler to keep food cold if the power goes out before drinking it. If you know a disaster is coming fill up a---The first step in sterilizing water is to get the water as clear as possible. If it is cloudy, strain it with coffee filters, a clean cloth, or sand. Or you can let it settle and pour off the more clear water.
The primary and most reliable method of sterilizing water is boiling. You actually do not need to boil the water just heat it past 145 degrees for long enough. But if you don't do it right you can get sick. So to be safe, boil it for 5 minutes if you can. If you are walking, a metal cup (enamel or stainless) or a converted tin can is easier to boil than a full pot. You can carry a backpacking stove or a Kelly Kettle. You can use solar power to sterilize water (in a soda bottle) if no cooking is possible. Other stoves are suggested below under food.
To sterilize water with bleach use 2 drops of plain unscented bleach per quart of water (or 8 drops per gallon or 1â„4 tsp per 2 gallons). If you don't have a dropper you can wet a paper towel and then drip it (wear gloves). Let the water sit for 20 minutes and then smell it. If it smells like chorine then its good to go. If it doesn't, repeat with the same amount of bleach. If that doesn't work try to find other water. (Really bad water or salt water requires a still.) Bleach is cheap but does not last forever - rotate. Dry Calcium Hypochlorite {sold as "pool shock" bleach) stores much better than liquid bleach but requires an additional step of mixing a solution. (It provides a very inexpensive long term solution to water treatment).
There are also Potable Aqua iodine tablets that are more compact for sterilizing water. You can also use Tincture of Iodine. Iodine and chlorine are poisons so be very careful (kill the bacteria not yourself. [Avoid ingesting chlorine or iodine crystals!])
Any of the chemical treatments can make the water taste funny. You can use drink mixes to make it taste better. I'm not sure if sports drinks are really better, but Gatorade seems more thirst quenching to me than water. The powder form is more convenient and cheaper. You can also make your own sports drink (1/4 tsp nu salt (potassium chloride), 1â„4 tsp salt, 3-6 tbsp sugar (to taste), juice of 1 lemon (or orange), and optional flavoring (Kool-Aid) per gallon of water) or switchel.---ittp://www.doultonfilters.com/gravity.html. This is a great looking solar still but doesn't appear to be for sale right now.
If you are a homebrewer (or like beer), you can add some dry malt extract, hops, and dry yeast to your stash. Beer is boiled as part of the brewing process. Then the alcohol and hops act as a natural preservative. For the long term you can get some sproutable barley, grow some hops, and culture yeast. If you or someone with you doesn't handle alcohol well, skip this.---some family I wouldn't turn away even if they deserve it). Start with the cheap stuff (rice, beans, pasta, salt) and then slowly keeping adding and rotating the other food until you have at least one months worth. Do an inventory at least twice a year.
Store everything in airtight/waterproof containers inside a tough container in a cool, dry, dark place. Some things come packed pretty well and can just go in a plastic bucket or crate (cans can be dipped in wax). Other items should be vacuum packed in small bags or large mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and then put in the plastic bucket with a lid or crate (with a solid latching lid). If you don't have shelves, you can make shelves out of the buckets or crates and 1â€x12†lumber. Put 2â€x4â€'s under the bottom shelf to keep it off the floor.
For years worth of food instead of months worth of food we need to move to grain and grain grinders. The Church of Latter Day Saints are the experts here. They also have storehouses that will sell to the public if you are polite.---I went cheap and was able to get about six months worth of food for one person for $100. I stuck to grains (400 lbs/year), beans (40 lbs/year), soup mix (20 lbs/year), and milk (16 lbs/year) (I already had sugar (60 pounds/year), salt (10 lbs/year), oil (5 gallons/year), baking soda and yeast). I borrowed some of their equipment to pack some of the food, the rest I packed at home in the mylar bags and buckets described above. The milk is a sticky powder and very messy (think of spilling flour and multiply by 100), repack it outside if possible. I also bought a hand operated grain grinder to make flour from the wheat. Then I can make bread (scale this recipe up to one loaf per day for a year as a cross check for a year's supply). This would be a pretty miserable diet but I think it would keep me alive and healthy if I had enough vitamins. Because of the sack size I have more of some things than others so towards the end I may be eating paste. I hope to upgrade later. For infants you need more milk, oil, sugar, and vitamins from which you can make an emergency formula (breast feeding is better, then you give the extra food to the mother).
For even longer food solutions you need to farm. Supplementing your food with a garden or sprouting would also make things last longer and provide some healthy variety. Its best to have some non-hybrid seeds on hand or save seeds from your garden. Serious (expensive) seed packages are here. Have some fertilizer and pesticides on hand but in the long run organic is the way to go.
For cooking you can use a wood burning stove, barbeque, or camp stove in the short run (have some extra f---If you don't have one of these or run out of fuel you can build one: a coffee can stove, a bucket stove (avoid galvanized metal), a alcohol stove, a collapsible stove, a tin can stove (simple version), solar oven (portable version), or a clay stove (print directions for making at least one of these).---Hope
Hope is different for everyone. It can be safety, comfort, companionship, or normalcy. For me it is mainly hope that there is light at the end of the tunnel. I can work hard and persevere if I know eventually things will get better. This means long term planning. So I want to have what I need in the short term but also have some hope for the long term (so I have gardening tools and seeds in addition to rice and spam). You also want comfort items such as a book, Bible, game, coloring book, pictures, beer, tea, or warm shower. Some of these can be dual purpose such as a book about hiking or gardening, survival playing cards, or a novel about survival and perseverance.
Equipment
There are lots of things you can get, but you can also just organize what you have already. The number of lists seems endless and what you need depends upon the situation, your skills, and your budget. Here is what is wrong with---Change your attitude, don't be wasteful, and you can reuse many items. A tin can becomes a cup or pot with a little work. Use both sides of a piece of paper and then use it as insulation or tinder. Waste not, want not.---Organize your equipment and supplies into different levels and packages
Stuff you almost always carry
You should make a small kit that fits in your pocket or around your neck. This should include:
ways to make a fire (matches, mini bic, flint, etc.)
a button compass
a small knife or razor blade, broken hack saw blade, small file
Swiss Tech Micro-Tech 6-in-1 Tool
led light small candle (light or fire making) a saw short piece of wire
parachute cord (as much as will fit) iodine tablets sturdy needle and thread
individual salt servings food tabs, hard candy, bullion or individual parmesan cheese/sugar (if space permits)
freezer bags (water) nails (assortment) trash bag if it will fit (poncho or tarp) dental floss (twine)
Advil, Imodium, Benadryl, vitamins, band aids, SPF chapstick any other essential medicine for you or your family (all labeled)
fish hooks, split shot, fish line, safety pins.
Survival cards can go in kit or wallet (you can make something similar).
Personal Fanny Pack (or vest)
This should be small enough and attached to you so that you do not put it down even when you take a break. Take it with you on any hike, drive or emergency. A large fanny pack works well or Ranger Rick suggests putting everything in a vest and a bamboo walking stick. You can duplicate some of the itemsiin your mini kit but add substantially.
Survival cards or pocket survival guide (or print some out).
Knife of your choice (another one can go in your pocket or on your belt)
Sharpening stone (or ceramic insulator)
Fire materials (matches and tender (dryer lint, cotton balls in Vaseline, small candles, etc.) waterproofed) Magnifying glass wrapped in bandana
Pliers if your knife doesn't have them Compass Maps Metal cup (boiling water) 2 small bottles of water Freezer bags (organization, waterproofing and for more water) Small camp soap (or traveler's shampoo)
Iodine tablets At least 2 trash bags (clear for still and heavy black for shelter), or tarp and poncho, or space blanket, or light weight jacket with hood (a shell that compacts) or hat
Rope, twine and wire Headlamp and extra batteries Candle
Wipes (these are multipurpose and are more compact than toilet paper, keep them in zip lock bags (add a little water if they get dry)) Gloves and socks
Small first aide kit (including prescriptions)
Sunscreen and bug repellant. Whistle
Snacks (powerbars, trail mix, food tabs, tea, Gatorade mix, bullion, beef jerky, MRE)
A GPS, FRS radio, am/fm radio, cell phone, or CB can go in here if it fits
Mini binoculars (to spot landmarks, approaching fires, etc.)
Notepad and pencil or pen
A multipurpose tool is a good backup for the other items.
72 hour kit (or less)
To some, the 72 hour kit is everything they have in their house for disasters. I think this should be what you take with you if you have to evacuate (even on foot). If you can't carry 72 hours worth of food and water (that is a lot of water even if you only plan 2 quarts per day), scale it down and put the rest in a car bug out kit that can be used in your house or on the road. You can also make a similar kit for work or other places you are likely to be in an emergency. It should be in a medium sized backpack that you can easily carry (get a rain cover for the backpack (or make one)—these really help in wet conditions). Again, repeat items in your smaller kits as you see fit. Here are some suggestions:
It's a Disaster! Book (or print out a similar one)
Personal mini-kit and fanny pack or vest (attached to you separately from the backpack)
Water (as much as you can fit without making the bag too heavy, you can carry some containers empty and fill them later)
Changes of clothes (several underwear and socks, long underwear)
Jacket, hat, and sunglasses Sleeping bag or blanket (and compact pad), hammock
Soap and other toiletries (comb, nail clippers and razor)
Small stove and/or lantern (or directions and supplies for making one of the stoves above) Small tent or tarp and netting, plastic sheeting, tent poles and stakes (multipurpose)
Stuff sacks, mesh bags, pillow cases for organization Duct tape
Hatchet or machete, folding saw Small shovel
Rope, twine and bungee cords Backpacking pot/pan
Cooking and eating utensils (kitchen knife, can opener, spatula, spoon, forks, plates, cups) Foil
Dish soap, sponge, dish pan or bucket (collapsible) (also a wash basin or bucket), towel Food (Snacks and MREs as well as rice)
Vitamins Detailed road maps topo maps Extra ammo Pocket warmers
A GPS, FRS radio (everyone with a list of channels to use), am/fm radio, solar calculator, or CB (whatever you have that fits)
Copies of important documents, phone numbers, extra credit card, cash, ID
Comfort items (book, cards, bible, pictures, coloring books, games)
Car Kit
Keep this in the car if possible. I used to keep a lot of this in my car but since some of it was stolen, I keep most of it in the house and load it up for longer trips. I have something similar to the personal fanny pack that I keep hidden in the jack compartment.
72 hour kit:::: Flashlight and batteries Fire extinguisher Jumper cables
Seat belt cutter and window breaker (keep within reach) Water (bottles can go under the seats) Matches Gloves Tarps Garbage bags Wipes Maps Driving compass Rope and/or tow strap and bungee cords First aide kit (any medications)
Siphon hose for water or gas (do not drink gas) Window washer/scraper
Crowbar and other tools (hammer, saw, wrenches, duct tape, fuses, belts, and screws) Ax, bucket and shovel (this is required in some forests)
Engine oil Gas can (keep it empty and unused unless you have a place for it on the outside of your car or truck) Stuff you take if you have to Bug Out
This is stuff that is too heavy to carry in your 72 hour kit but something you can throw in your car (in addition to what is already there) quickly if you need to evacuate. You might be able to take it in a garden cart if you can't drive but travel by roads is still safe. Here is an example to help you make your own kit (or here). Pack it in crates or duffle bags. Here are some suggestions (what fits in your car will vary):
More survival books or books on camping/country/simple living
5 gallon water cans (full)
Food (cans and other heavy bulky items)
Cooler (grab some ice and any travel friendly fresh items that are still good like cheese, peanut butter, apples, lemons, and bread)
Large first aide kitDutch oven Stove and fuel or barbeque, Kelly Kettle
Lantern (Petromax is good but expensive) Unscented bleach
Tent and large tarps, rugs Blanket and pillows (sleeping pad, hammock, or cot) Paper plates, utensils and cups Paper towels and wipes Foil
Solar shower Bucket toilet (you can store garbage bags, toilet paper, wipes, and soap inside the bucket) Many garbage bags Laundry soap Clothes pins
Soap and shampoo Ant traps and insecticides
Fishing gear Radio and batteries
Several extra fuel cans (enough to get to your destination without refueling)
Propane heater with fuel
Generator Small safe for guns and documents
Bikes (on rack and with pump and tire repair kit)
Frisbee or other games First Aid and Medical Kits
Take a first aide class and more training if you can. For supplies, the place to start is with a pre-made small portable first aide kit and a larger h---items are ones I may need in the future). Amazon and Moore Medical have most of the items if you can't find them locally. For the house or car first aide kit, I suggest a hard sided box like a tool box. Dental care is also important. A toothache is really distracting. A little dental kit like this could make you a lot more comfortable until you can see a dentist.
Other Kits
Make other kits as you see fit. I have a kit that is mainly in case of terrorist attack (I live and work too close to a likely target). I have Jane's Chem-Bio Handbook and what to do if a nuclear attack in imminent as well as Potassium Iodide (seven days), plastic sheeting, duct tape, Tyvek clothes coverings, and a face mask (this is not as good as a gas mask but its what I have). You can spread this to your other kits if you want.
Security
Protecting yourself from criminals is as natural as buying a fire extinguisher to put out fires (but more expensive). Get fences, dead bolts, and lock your windows at night but if someone really wants to get in your home they will. Police take an average of 11 minutes or more to respond to violent crimes 40 percent of the time (sometimes hours), under normal conditions. A lot can happen in 11 minutes and you are going to wait a lot longer in a crisis. When someone is kicking in your door, it is too late to go buy a gun. You are on your own. Relying on the kindness of someone breaking into your home is not a good bet.
If you are a gun person, pick your own gun. This advice if for those who don't own a gun or don't shoot. I suggest a pistol, a rifle and a shotgun for every adult (check you local gun laws). If I had to only have one gun it would be a shotgun because of their versatility. A 20 gauge shotgun is more than enough for most purposes including home defense and has less recoil than a 12 gauge. The Remington 870 is a great choice but many people also like Mossberg. Take a class on using the shotgun for home defense. For home defense ammo, I use bird shot. This will not penetrate and stop a criminal as fast as buck shot but is also less likely to go through a wall and hurt an innocent person. Make your own decision here based on who is in adjoining rooms and how close the neighbors are. You can always load bird shot as the first few shells followed by buck shot (keep about 200 rounds on hand because it will be hard to buy in a crisis). The only options I recommend are hearing protection, glasses, a cleaning kit, a sling (guns with slings don't get set down in bad places as much) and maybe a light or night sights. I think the factory stocks are fine.
Next on my list would be a .22. The Ruger Single Six is a nice revolver that is convertible to either 22 LR or 22 magnum (This might be a better choice as the only gun for some people). Also get a holster for it. Savage and CZ make bolt action rifles that are great bargains. A .22 is a ---Learn the gun safety rules and locking up any guns not on your body is a good idea and a necessity if you have kids (or adults who act like kids) in your home. For pistols you can get a cheap keyed safe for about $20 (also good for documents). Then you have to hide the key where you can find it quickly but no one else can. A combination safe is better but a lot more expensive (practice opening it in the dark).---If you decide against a gun, at least get pepper spray, a baseball bat, or a flashlight. A self-defense class would be good too (martial arts classes are good but take a long time to become practical). A bullet proof vest and helmet would be good but neither is inexpensive. Finally, there is safety in numbers. Staying with family and friends during a crisis is a good idea if resources and space allow.----First Steps
Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water.
Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack as necessary. Get some food grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place.
Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and ways to deal with them. What is your plan to deal with each?
Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash.
Practice. This doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water (in your backyard to start with). Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had to evacuate. How long did it take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out of town. Go hiking with your 72 hour kit.
Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans.
Books and other sources (in order of relevance and grouped)---books:If your local libraries participate, a great resource is Worldcat. It lets you search for books from home, then go check them out, or get them through interlibrary loan.---I have canned butter, cheese, bread, and meats. My other job allows me to get discounts on a product called a Vittle Vault. An 80 gallon air/water tight container which I use to bury my other food (all freeze dried pouches) but not before sealing it in plastic from a nifty device I found at Costco one day ( One day I was shopping at Costco and I stopped to look at something e---I have a Black Berkey water filtration system, with a half dozen back up filters and several 5 gallon buckets for either the collection of snow or from the stream out back, or to use as an emergency dry toilet.
I am a faithful practitioner of homeopathic remedies,and have quite the collection of remedies and books and homeopathic today magazines. Which I read all the time, to keep it fresh in my memory. Also read a lot of medical/ wilderness first aid books. Took a class---I'm obtaining a [State-issued] Firearms Identification (FID) card soon, God willing for a long gun or three. Handguns are not allowed in Massachusetts for subjects err I mean citizens. Also magazines over ten rounds are not permissible unless one has a handgun permit for that as well or its off to jail for a year, no questions asked. Trying my best to avoid the jail part.---bad it will be and how long it will last?. No clue but history shows major wars start with major economic troubles.--- for whatever. I do not wish the dollar to die but if it does die then I hope it enjoys a long, very long lingering death. - Scott V.
JWR Replies: I commend you for your dedication, Scott. I have long held the opinion that true preparedness is more about skills than it is about money. I have a lot of wealthy consulting clients that have heaps of supplies and tools, but I have my doubts about their ability to actually survive ---Tuesday December 25 2007
Letter Re: Hunkering Down in an Urban Apartment in a Worst Case Societal Collapse---Water. Even with extreme conservation measures you will need at least one gallon of water per day. That one gallon of water will provide just enough w---Food. For a six month stay, you will need far more than just 50 pounds of rice! Work out a daily menu and budget for an honest six month supply of food with a decent variety and sufficient caloric intake. Don't overlook vitamin supplements to make up for the lack of fresh fruit and vegetables. Sprouting ---Sanitation. Without water for flushing toilets, odds are that people in neighboring apartments will dump raw sewage out their windows, causing a---Space heating. In mid-winter you could freeze to death in your apartment without supplemental heat. As I will discuss later, a small heater or just a few candles can keep the air temperature above freezing.
Ventilation. If you are going to use any source of open flame, you will need lots of additional ventilation. Asphyxiation from lack of oxygen or slow carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning are the alternatives. Unfortunately, in the circumstances that you envision, the increased ventilation required to mitigate these hazards will be a security risk--as a conduit for the smell of food or fuel, as a source of light that can be seen from outside the apartment, and as an additional point of entry for robbers.
Security. The main point of entry for miscreants will probably be your apartment door. Depending on the age of your apartment, odds are that you have a traditional solid core wood door. In a situation where law and order has evaporated, the malo hombres will be able to take their time and break through doors with fire axes, crow bars and improvised battering rams. It is best to replace wooden apartment doors with steel ones. Unless you own a ---Self Defense. To fend off intruders, or for self defense when you eventually emerge from your apartment, you will need to be well-armed. Preferably you should also be teamed with at least two other armed and trained adults. Look into local legalities on large volume pepper spray dispensers. These are marketed primarily as bear repellent, with brand names like "Guard Alaska", "Bear Guard", and "17% Streetwise." If they are indeed legal in your jurisdiction, then buy several of the big one-pound dispensers, first making sure that they are at least a 12% OC formulation.---If you can get a firearms permit--a bit complicated in New York City , but not an insurmountable task--then I recommend that you get a Remington, Winchester, or Mossberg 12 gauge pump action shotgun with a SureFire flashlight forend. #4 Buckshot (not to be confused with the much smaller #4 bird shot) is the best load for defense in an urban environment where over-penetration (into neighboring apartments) is an issue. But if getting a firearms permit proves too daunting, there is a nice exemption in the New York City firearms laws for muzzleloaders and pre-1894 manufactured antique guns that are chambered for cartridges that are no longer commercially made. It is not difficult to find a Winchester Model 1876 or a Model 1886 rifle that is in a serial number range that distinguishes it as pre-1894 ---Firearms training from a quality school (such as Front Sight) is crucial.
Fire Detection and Contingency Bug-Out. A battery-powered smoke detector is an absolute must. Even if you are careful with candles, lanterns, and cook stoves, your neighbors may not be. There is a considerable risk that your apartment building will catch fire, either intentionally of unintentionally. Therefore, you need to have a "Bug Out" backpack ready to grab at a moment's notice. Although they are no proper substitute for a fireman's compressed air breathing rig, a commercially-made egress smoke hood or a military surplus g---Warsaw, Poland, during the Second World War. Following the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto uprising and forced deportation, Szpilman spent many months locked in a Warsaw apartment, receiving just a few parcels of food from some gentile friends. In his situation, the power and water utilities were still operating most of the time, but he suffered from slow starvation and lived in absolute fear of making any noise. His survival absolutely defied the odds. There was a---Exercise. While you are "hunkered down", you will need to maintain muscle tone. Get some quiet exercise equipment, such as a pull-up bar and some large elastic straps. Perhaps, if your budget allows in the future, also purchase or construct your own a quiet stationary bicycle-powered generator. This would provide both exercise and battery charging.
Sanity. .Hunkering down solo in silence for six months would be a supreme challenge, both physically and mentally. Assuming that you can somehow tackle all of the aforementioned problems, you also need to plan to stay sane. Have lots of reading materials on hand.
In conclusion, when one considers the preceding long list of dependencies and complexities, it makes "staying put" in a worst case very unattractive. In less inimical circumstance, it is certainly feasible, but in a grid-down situation with utilities disrupted and wholesale looting and rioting in progress, the big city is no place to live. But, as always, this is just my perspective and your mileage may vary (YMMV).
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Monday December 17 2007
Letter Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget
a woman!!!:---I am one of those weird (smart?) people who was raised in the city, but for some reason, never belonged. From earliest childhood, I was always "preparing" long before I really knew what for. In other words, I was not your typical "raised in captivity" child. I learned to sew at nine, and spent a lot of time making sleeping bags and fancy wall tents for my Barbies, then set up elaborate campsite in the backyard, complete with chopped firewood, and water storage systems. (I did say I was weird, remember?)
I also used to spend weeks playing dolls with my sister and friends, but not like most girls. We had a favorite scenario in which we ran a huge orphanage which sprung into being because of some horrible disaster. The disaster didn't matter. What mattered was being able to care for all our babies with no power or outside help. (I nearly set the basement on fire once during these episodes)
Later when my family moved to a suburban/rural area, I was finally able to indulge more aspects of my survivalist side. I got into horses. And I mean I lived and breathed horses. Not just the typical horse crazy girl stuff...no, I had to practice loading my severely injured (or dead) friends onto my horse, practiced packing all sorts of gear on my horse, etc.
I began target shooting as a youngster with my father (who also took me on long hikes from the age of six on) but during my teen years I learned how to reload, thanks to a wonderful like-minded guy. We were kindred spirits, and spent hours reloading during the week so we could shoot for hours on the weekends. He taught me how to field strip a .45 Model 1911 in under 45 seconds blindfolded, among other things. ( Can't you just see the headlines if some high school kids were seen doing this today?)
I began gardening, canning and dehydrating at 16. My mother thought I'd lost my mind when I came home all excited about the fact that the owner of the stable where I kept my horse said I could plant a garden in the old chicken pen. I was sure busy that summer.
Fast forward 6-7 years: I am now married and having babies. After living in dinky houses in town, I convince my husband to buy a house on acreage. We find a wonderful little 800 square foot house on five acres about 20 miles from where we work (which was in a very small town about 20 miles from a large metro area) And the cycle started in my childhood continued.
I raise horses, goats for milk and make cheese, cows for meat, chickens for eggs and meat. I try my hand at rabbits, successfully building a huge herd of breeders, and selling fryers commercially for a couple years before a family disaster forced me to sell. My garden is bigger, and I can enough to see us through every year till the next garden. Pigs are raised on leftovers. We heat only with firewood. Life is busy, but good.
Later, when the kids are bigger, I get into a sport that seemed custom-made for me. Endurance riding. We had moved from our five acre place to a larger spread which bordered on State land, and I began spending hours riding alone for miles every day of the week. (I quit working outside the home when my kids were 2 and 4 years old. I didn't see the point of paying someone else to raise my kids.)
Even some of my endurance friends say I take it to the extreme. I always pack everything imaginable with me: Pistol (and rifle during hunting season) first aid kit, feed for my horse, food for me, shovel, saw, you name it, it's on my horse or myself. Everything except a cell phone. Nearly everywhere I ride a cell phone doesn't work, so why bother? I feel they just give a false sense of security and prevent proper survival thinking.
Fast forward 20 years: I divorce and start over. My kids are grown and I am thoroughly pleased with how they turn out. My daughter learned early on how to do oil changes and tune-ups on the old Ford pickup trucks I always drive. My son took his skills further. He can rebuild any old rig from the ground up. They both know a lot about farm animals and gardening, and both are avid campers. Both shoot, though my daughter can't hold a candle to her brother. He is by far the best shooter I have ever seen. I once watched him shoot a starling through the neck from 75 yards, offhand in the wind with a .22 [rimfire rifle]. The bird was sitting at the top of a 75 foot fir tree, and m---behind. This means Your primary objective is to make it home safely and quickly. By any means necessary: your return airline ticket, the rental vehicle, alternative transportation, or if all else fails, on foot. Under no circumstances do you want to be swept into the mainstream of refugees, wandering aimlessly to eventually be herded into government “aid facilities”. (---along a number of key items like edged weapons. Granted, you’re less equipped during your flight, but life is full of compromises. Keep your medications, food, flashlight, communications gear, money and a couple of layers of clothing with you on the plane. If you can’t do without a briefcase, forgo the fancy leather banker version in favor of nylon w/ a shoulder carry strap. You must be ready to carry everything you need on your back in the event you have to walk it home, and the right briefcase can become an asset [instead of a hindrance.]---Use the layering approach – a fold-up waterproof hooded shell in a dark color, collapsible down vest and/or a couple of fleece or thin wool sweaters, and an Under-Armour-style inner layer (remember you are fitting all this into a standard piece of luggage). Bring sturdy hiking shoes; wear them on the plane, and keep your dress shoes handy in your checked luggage. Bring at least two pair of hiking socks and liners (one to wear, the other undergoing wash/dry), even if it’s just an overnight trip, comfortable pants, a warm hat with ventilation and a good brim, sunglasses, and thin gloves. By wearing the heavier/bulkier items as you travel, you minimize the space demands on the luggage. Include a bandana or two – they have a thousand uses.----Food - You want compactness, indefinite storage, and high energy density, so you can stay on the go for several days. My favorite is Go Lean energy bars. Generally, look for high fiber brands, as they ward off hunger longer. Unsalted peanuts and M&Ms are also good choices. I bring 6-12 bars, secreted in nooks and crannies. Get a set of lexan resin eating utensils from a hiking store, and a P-38 can opener (put that in checked luggage). If things go longer, use your cash or resort to hobo cooking (canned food heated over fire).
Water - make your canteen from the 24-oz water bottle you bought for your flight, by bringing along a water bottle carry strap like those found at amusement parks. Don’t forget a small bottle of purification tablets – you can use your bandana as a 1st-tier sieve/filter.
Self-defense - Limited options due to the TSA restrictions for airline flights. Mailing firearms to yourself at your hotel [for an extended stay] is theoretically possible, but really very impractical in most business trips. In any event do bring your folding knife with combination straight and serrated blade (two is better than one) in you checked baggage, an impact weapon like a nylon kubotan or a carabiner employed as a keychain, and a flashlight (w/ multiple extra batteries) that is blindingly bright and sturdy enough to be used as an impact weapon . Make sure the carabiner is a real one from a hiking store, and is big enough to get all your fingers into so you can use it as “aluminum knuckles”. For carry-on, bring several thick rubber bands, so you can tightly wrap one of those in-flight magazines into a makeshift club. In an emergency after you arrive, if you cannot acquire a firearm or larger edged weapon, then use your folding knife to fashion a sturdy walking staff / club / spear from a mop handle or similar. Hiking stores carry very compact sharpening stones that can clip to your coat’s zipper – if you are in transit for a couple of weeks, you will need to keep an edge on your knives. Note that in some locales such as England and New York City, carrying a knife, or any “weapon” is illegal. Be informed, and use your own judgment. [JWR Adds: A roll of quarters (or British One Pound Coins or One Euro coins) can serve the dual purpose of being an impact weapon (a "Sunday Bar") and being available to make emergency pay phone calls. I can't imagine any jurisdiction that would charge you with carrying a "concealed" roll of coins. (Although once I witnessed the TSA goons asking a fellow passenger to take the dimes out of a paper roll and confiscate the coin roll paper. Oh, I felt so much safer after they did that!)]---Shelter / Light - Keep it simple and lightweight for starters, and pick up stuff as you go. Strike anywhere matches in a waterproof container and a magnesium striker-type fire-starter in checked baggage; buy a disposable lighter or two on arrival and discard on return, a space blanket, and one or two 3-mil thick contractor garbage bags for rain poncho, ground cloth, and/or tarp, and 50 feet of parachute cord. Have an LED microlight on your keychain, in red illumination, with an extra button battery or two. This conserves your tactical flashlight’s life. [If things looks bad,] borrow the bedding from your hotel----drugs (dont use them) to keep people happy:Medications and First Aid - Don’t assume you’ll be home in a day or so. Bring enough prescription meds for at least two weeks. I also bring a very small first aid kit – it fits into a pants pocket and holds band-aids, a disinfectant cream, sun block in stick form, ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea pills, and tweezers. Separately, I include a couple of sanitary napkins and tape as a compress, and a small bottle of insect repellant. Having balance is key here – you will not need a full kit. If you break a leg or are shot, you will need more help than you can self-administer. To stay clean, I take a refill pack of baby wipes, a trial size bottle of hand sanitizer, and a small bar of soap. I also bring a blister kit for my feet – most people don’t hike 30 miles a day with a pack, and blisters can be totally immobilizing, with an attendant risk of infection. Taking good measures with your feet, starting with the right footwear will help you get home in one piece.---remem the elpel-book four-edibles (no dangerous look-alikes):pine,grass,cattails,acorns---long, it became clear that not only is foraging for wild plant potentially more efficient than snaring wild game, its also much easier. There are almost always edible plants all around you, no matter where you are. Usually within arms reach! Case in point: The Pine Tree.
Pine needles can be easily brewed into tea which contains many nutrients and vitamins. Pine cones can be roasted over a fire (you did start a fire already, right?) to open the cone and access the seeds inside. In a longer term situation…those same seeds can also be ground into a type of course flour. One can also east the inner bark of Pine trees if nothing else is available. And that’s just the common Pine tree, which grows almost everywhere! Speaking of Tree bark: remember that Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) was originally derived from teas made from the inner bark of the Willow tree.
Anyway, you get the point. A little study on the matter can go a long way toward making you self sufficient as far as food is concerned, by enabling you to supplement your dry-stores (you do have food stores, right?) with fresh greens providing vitamins and nutrients year round. Just remember what ---Tuesday October 9 2007
Cold Weather Survival Tips, by David in Israel
James,
Winter is coming [in the northern hemisphere]. An important skill is treating and preventing cold exposure, especially if a person is disabled and on the ground. The ground steals heat through direct conduction and by absorption of moisture.
Always go out well fed, include plenty of protein, copious warm hydrating liquids, and fats. Together these break down in a heat generating reaction as well as providing large amounts of energy for more heat
generation.
Have a way to make a warm drink. A Thermos is skimping, better a small stove that is easily lit and kettle that will let you melt snow and make hot water to drink, this saves your body from having to heat
your drinks and also raises your core temperature if you get chilled or worse. Cold drinks bring down body temperature and the metabolism required to heat it to body temperature nearly requires as much water as you are consuming, un-melted snow is actually hydration negative due to the metabolism [required] to bring it to body temperature.
Insulate from the ground, dry grass leaves, seat pad foam, clothing, whatever. The ground will steal your body heat quickly.
Share warmth with a friend or more, huddle, hug, stack up as injuries allow.
Protect the heat loss areas. Cover first the head, then armpits, groin, trunk, and finally the extremities.---living. The reasons these days are for healthy living and potential survival scenarios. Living ‘healthy’ during a non-survival scenario is one thing, living healthy during a survival scenario is quite different. Fitness doesn’t just happen. Fitness is accomplished by adopting good habits of exercise, nutrition and rest. ---Diet and Nutrition: Assess what you are eating and how you feel. Eating fast food? Too many carbs? Sweet tooth? Living on coffee and cigarettes? Or, are you already eating a healthy diet? Either way, the new stresses added to your daily routine in a survival scenario will cause your body new stresses. You will either keep up or break down. It really depends on your present habits. An individual who is fit and maintains a healthy diet will be able to make the transition from living in the present day to a survival mode relatively easy. Adrenaline will carry the day for a brief time. But after the adrenaline subsides, what’s left in the tank and where is the energy required to keep up coming from? I know many over the years who have maintained poor diets but had excellent workout routines. They were mostly the younger generation. It always catches up with them. They usually become injured/hurt, sick, and/or are tired…but then they come back after a rest period and the cycle repeats itself. If you have poor fitness and a poor diet, you are advised to alter both. The body wants good clean fuel, not items containing too many carbs, items made with hydrogenated oils, trans fats, a diet loaded with sugar (sodas, desserts, snack(s)…). Also overlooked is hydration. Re-hydrating is critical. Once you begin to exercise, you have to replace your fluids. Not doing so will result in cramping, tiredness, and/or can result in heat exhaustion if not replacing fluids while exercising. Watch the sports drinks as some have lots of sugar. I always dilute my quarts of Gatorade 50-50 [with water]. Too much sugar can prevent the hydration you are seeking. ‘Emergen-C’ is a product I use daily to keep the immune system strong. It contains numerous vitamins and supplements in small packets mixed in water. Particularly good is the chromium, sodium, several antioxidants, vitamin C and low sugar content. Some final words regarding overall diet and fitness are: everyone has time to eat right. If you believe you are eating ‘right’ but are under/overweight, then your diet needs improvement.-----
Jim, I grew up in the bomb shelter/Cold War era. A neighbor two houses down actually dug out their front yard to install a bomb shelter. My folks had a rudimentary bug-out bag and we always kept a month's worth of food on hand. Hey, for the 1950s, that was progressive thinking so I guess I come by being into preparedness naturally.
I hold advanced degrees but my education does not get in the way of exercising common sense. It is obvious that our complex society is too interdependent to survive major interruptions and we have numerous examples to look at (the L.A. riots, Hurricane Katrina, and such). To believe that a major interruption of services could not occur is delusional. The empirical evidence is right in front of us. The family which is prepared has far fewer w-----
I prepare to survive because I see it as part of the natural cycle of human civilization. Something in us wants to forget the lessons of what makes us a great society and start living on borrowed riches and capabilities. Eventually, that living beyond our means catches up with us via a natural disaster, economic collapse or societal conflict.
If we were not to prepare to survive then we are doomed to fail and live miserably under the dictates of someone else. If we prepare we are not guaranteed to have prepared for the right situation, or enough, but at least we have a much better than average chance. In the end, I am an optimist. No matter how bad things get they will eventually get better. We can speed up our own recovery and that of our community’s by preparing now. If we do not, then we may end up wallowing in misery and struggling for the barest necessities. Is that the kind of life God wants for us? I think not. I believe God wants us to live wisely and prepare to prosper under all conditions. That takes discipline and short-term sacrifice.
--
Jim, your blog rocks. I only hope that I can learn and earn fast enough to take advantage of the incredible information that your forum provides before TEOTWAWKI.
I have a beautiful 6 month old son who is totally innocent to the ways in which TPTB (the powers that be) are systematically destroying nature, American Democratic principles and threatening the survival of humanity. He deserves a chance in this life, regardless of whether or not he'll ever get to visit Sam's Club, get a college scholarship, drive a V-8 or own an iPod.
When things start to get dicey, and as the world as we know it begins to fall apart - most likely permanently- he will be just coming up in age and entering what should be the most wondrous years of a child's life.
For him, and for my future children, I will fill their youthful imaginations with nature, tools, projects, outdoor adventure and practical knowledge. Before I let the idiot-box and America's media-driven junk-culture destroy their understanding of their place in God's kingdom (and the animal kingdom), they will know what to eat and how to hunt it, how to garden, how to fix stuff and how to avoid trouble in a society that in the future will eventually fail entirely by trying to eliminate all risk of failure here in the present.
They will be encouraged to learn practical trades: veterinary sciences, engineering, construction, medicine and alternative medicine, martial arts, food production and off-the-grid technology solutions.
No bankers, real-estate agents, financial analysts, politicians or computer graphic designers in this family, Jim. No sireeee bubba.
I have always believed that those people who want to throw God's gift of life away through risk, recklessness, attempted suicide or plain old bad lifestyle habits are doomed to live longer.
I have also questioned since1987 when the U.S.S. Stark got hit by our"allies" escorting black gold in the Persian Gulf how long our cheeseburger-driven, cheap-oil, fiat-money, fake-friends and fear of loss-driven society can keep going.
Therefore I will survive this impending paradigm-shift in human existence in order to see my children prevail into adulthood, and for my morbid curiosity to see how all this B.S. I have put up with my entire life winds-up in the end of my days.
It won't be easy however. Here in Texas, not 1 in 1000 people has a clue what might be coming in the next few years. Even after [Hurricane] Katrina pushed a not-so-golden horde of 150,000 low income welfare dependents onto the greater Houston area. I guess that bad stuff only happens to others, right?
I'll be heading for the hills soon enough I hope, and taking my brood to a ---It’s the type with all the little bells in it." But seriously, the bells are an effective noisemaker and have served my family (especially my kids) well over the years. Also keep on the lookout for bear sign, including tracks, scat, scratched up trees/posts and dug up ground to alert you to definite bear presence in the area.
The advice of making noise on the trail may become more of an liability than an asset in certain situations. Hunters obviously would need to observe some noise discipline once they reach their hunting grounds. Also, OPSEC concerns may cause some people to need to travel through the wilderness extremely quietly, come TEOTWAWKI. Just remember that even the largest of bears can travel extremely quietly, and when one does encounter a bear along a trail, they always seem to come from nowhere with little or no warning. My last Grizzly encounter: Three of us were hiking and stopped along the trail for a water break. I looked over my shoulder and there was an 8 foot tall Griz standing on his hind legs less than 20 feet away. He made no sound, no rustling in the willow thicket, and gave no warning at all. In those situations, keep you eyes and ears open, and be ready for anything that comes your way. (More on encountering a bear, below)
Camp Safety
This one is actually very simple, and boils down to just one thing: Keep yourself and your camp as clean and sanitary as possible.
The following bulleted points will be important in reducing the risk of a bear encounter/attack while at the campsite.
- Select a good campsite in bear country. Avoid setting up your camp next to a huge patch of blueberries (or other food source) for example. Before setting up your camp, scout the area looking for any signs of bear activity. T---encountering a bear.
- STAY CALM! Assess your situation, and use your best judgment. Remember that there are no actions guaranteed to be life saving when encountering a wild animal. A bear just like a dog or any other animal can sense fear. Screaming or throwing things or otherwise acting aggressively toward the bear may provoke an attack.
- Never feed or otherwise approach a bear. Even (or especially) a cub who appears all alone may have mom very near by, and if you are closer to the cub than the mother bear is, you will likely be seen as a threat.
- Do not run away! This should be a LAST RESORT. Running away from a predator may excite it to chase after you. (Its predatory instinct). Running can essentially turn a non-aggressive bear into a real threat. Besides bear can run as fast as 30 miles and hour, so the possibility of outrunning a bear is next to zero.
- If there is space, simply continue to face the bear and slowly back away while speaking to the bear in a calm even voice. Once a safe distance from the bear, raise your noise level so the bear can be aware of your location and attempt to find an alternative route to your destination if possible. (Ntte: In well over 40 unexpected bear encounters I have had, this simple t---- Playing dead is only an option if you are viewed as a threat to the bear. If you startle a bear or if you get to close to a cub, you are a threat and playing dead may remove the threat for the bear and end the attack.
- If a bear attacks you in a tent, or from the open, in a situation where it has a chance to escape but charges anyway, then playing dead is most likely not an option. These types of attacks are generally by juveniles and occur in the fall when they are desperate to pack on some weight before winter. In such a scenario, you would be viewed as a source of food, not a threat, so your choices would be to run or fight back at all costs.
- It is said that playing dead is generally more effective with Grizzly bears rather than black bears. I’m not sure why that is the case, but several game b---the the water pressure gone. I grew up in NYC and the only place I can think of to get water in that scenario would be the reservoir in Harlem. A dangerous place in the best of times. Also, with a pack, you'll sweat more. I can get by on very little water in my office, but on a trail with a pack in the noon day sun I get dehydrated real fast.
Television peeve #2 is the one shot kill (and one punch knock out). Just shoot the bad guy once and he's down? Unless it is a central nervous system hit (spinal cord or brain) he's not down. Even a heart shot gives him enough time, say 6 seconds, to stab you or shoot back if he's angry or drugged enough. How far can a man run in 6 seconds? Will he close the gap? It's not whether the bad guy dies from the wounds you inflict on him, it's whether you kill him in such a way as to deny him the ability to return the favor.
FWIW, here is a compilation of my top 15 survival fantasies and misconceptions:
1. You can fit everything you need for extended survival in a backpack
2. A single shot not hitting the brain or spinal cord less or than .40/.44/.45 caliber will stop an attacker before he can kill you
3. I don't need to bring that much water
4. The government is here to help
5. I'm in good enough shape right now to hike 20 miles with a 70 pound pack
6. Everything I have stored still works, hasn't expired, I know how to use it and I know where it is
7. I can buy what I need at the first sign of impending crisis
8. My kids can keep up with me on an extended hike
9. Farming/livestock/hunting/fishing/trapping are easy to learn from a book, I don't need practical experience
10. God will help me. I'll be in the right place at the right time if I am a good person
11. I can argue/discuss/bargain with a bad guy(s). I don't have to shoot them.
12. If I shoot them, I can wound them, I don't have to kill.
13. By virtue of my obvious survival knowledge, foresight and preparedness, my family/friends/neighbors will agree that I am the best suited to lead our newly formed fledgling survival group and will listen and carry out my suggestions.
14. Life in TEOTWAWKI will be fun. Since there will be no more taxes/bills/mortgage to pay and I don't have to show up for work it will be hard but rewarding. Add that to the satisfaction of being able to say "I told you so" and given my preparations, I'll be better off then than I am now.
15. My stash of silver pre-1965 coins will let me live like a king
Survival fantasies. We all have them, and we all need to lose them. - SF in Hawaii---All of the preceding is not to say that you shouldn't own a Get Out of Dodge ("GOOD") backpack. You should have one, especially if you don't live year round at your intended retreat. (The pack is only intended for a very short period, to get you to your retreat, in the event that for whatever reason a vehicle is not available.) You should dread ever having to use that pack when forced to abandon your well-stocked retreat and taking off on foot to fend for yourself.---Tuesday December 12 2006
Letter Re: The James Kim Exposure Death Tragedy: Lessons to Be Learned
Sir:
I live in Curry County [Oregon], and on occasion travel the road over the mountains to Galice. I think that the primary lesson to learn from his tragedy is that you have to know where you are. The SOP for being lost in the woods is to "hug a tree" and wait for rescue. That doesn't always work around here, and Mr. Kim wasn't necessarily wrong in trying to walk out for help. Several years ago, in March, a guy was found on that same road, frozen, sitting in his pickup waiting for rescue. He'd been missing since November. Another common piece of advice for people stuck in the woods is to travel downhill, find water, and follow it downstream. That doesn't work here either. You will end up cold, wet, and trapped at the bottom of a cliff. Around here you have to go uphill until you find a logging spur or an old log deck [also called a log landing or log yard] and then build a big fire. Actually, if Mr. Kim had just stayed on the road, he could have walked to either Galice or Agness in one hard day. You have to know where you are, and adapt accordingly. ---Tuesday October 31 2006
Letter Re: Walking Sticks for Self Defense
James:
Regarding walking sticks, I'd suggest folks look at two sites. One would be Cold Steel, where they can assemble a pretty stout, flexible and lethal combo from their waxwood poles, their Bushman knives, and steel sections applied to the staff near the ends. The Bushman's sheath can be leather or parachute cord "strapped" onto the staff, and when needed be affixed to the end and voila! ... staff becomes spear. Alas, they no longer have the staffs on their site, but the Bushmans are there, and the rest is a simple exercise in measurement and a half-hour of handiwork. The steel appliques made the ends of the staff even more ... "functional" .... than already. As I think about it, wire wrap applied at one end would yield the same enhanced rigidity plus the ability to pull some off for snares, construction .... I think that lo-tech approach beats bought "hiking sticks" which may be lightweight and portable, but don't fill other survival roles like a stout stick
Crawford Knives.com and the Crawford clan have made a unique survival staff for years that converts from walking stick to staff to blowgun to spear. Machined to their usual quality and tolerances, it's pricey but the real-deal.
We have both collapsible staffs and the Cold Steel Trailhawks in our vehicles; the Trailhawk does double-duty as a hammer.
Best regards for your Good Work done, ---Monday August 21 2006
Letter Re: An Amazing Tale of Survival: Nine Months Adrift in the Pacific
Dear Jim,
I think this would be a good story to link to on SurvivalBlog. Three fishermen survived on a 25 foot boat for nine months at sea, doing drastic things to ensure their survival. Two of the men on the boat died because they didn't have the will to live (there were originally five on the boat.) As a sea kayaker who takes safety very seriously, it is a sobering story.---TEOTWAWKI could happen anytime. Have shelter and food preparations made. Install a mobile, shipping container, shed or other shelter on that piece of land. Don't be a grasshopper well armed and trained survivalists with no stored food or shelter are the scariest MZBs of all. Hunger and cold allow people to justify the most outrageous decisions. Even easier to justify decisions such as armed robbery when your family is hurting. We will all stand to be judged by the Creator of the universe in the end.---Canadian rules says 1.5 inch they might be talking about the other way you measure gill nets: That is from the top knot to the side knot then our net is a 1.5 inch mesh. You would think that there would be one standard way to measure nets but that would be too easy.
Here is the basic list for Canadian Bush Pilots:
Food with at least 10,000 calories per person
Cooking utensils
Matches
Stove and fuel
Compass
Axe of at least 2 1/2 pounds
Saw
Snare wire
Fishing equipment (tackle and nets)
Mosquito nets and repellent
Tents, wing covers or orange signal panels
Sleeping bags
Signal mirror
Distress signals
First aid kit
Survival manual
Believe me, we have sold lots of gear to bush pilots in Canada, Alaska, and the Lower 48. If I was a bush pilot, this is what I would carry:
A Wiggy's sleeping bag http://www.wiggys.com [JWR Adds: I highly recommend the Wiggy's FTRSS and the Ultima Thule.]
Small Katadyn water filter--JRH sells these: https://www.jrhenterprises.com/categoryNavigationDocument.hg?categoryId=16
A small dome tent
10-to-12 [ounce] tarp
First Aid kit
Signal mirror
Distress signal--normal signal flares typically sold at Marine stores
Small backpack stove
Small bush saw
A Estwing steel handled axe
Mosquito nets and repellents
Small emergency gill net, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Gill-Net.htm
Emergency fishing kit, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Fishing-Emergency-Pocket-Kit.htm
Regarding firearms, read this article: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Article-Only-One-Gun.htm If I was in big bear (grizzly and brown bear) country I would switch up to a 45-70. :-)
Why the PAL light? Every survivalist should own at least one PAL for every person. The PAL light takes a 9 volt battery. Now why is that important?---BOB:bug-out-bag:ultra-light!:a substantial pack to support the weight. If you choose lighter gear your backpack doesn’t have to be as heavily built. A lighter pack and lighter gear means that your footwear doesn’t have to be as substantial to support your feet, so you can get by with running shoes. Everything ends up being lighter.
With typical backpacking gear you might have:
5 lbs. pack 3 lbs. sleeping bag 5 lbs. tent 2 lbs. stove, fuel and pot
1 lb sleeping padThe five heaviest items adds up to 16 lbs.
My ultra-light gear:
16 oz. pack 21 oz. down top bag (sleeping bag without bottom)
8 oz. silnylon 8x10 tarp 7 oz. elecric draft wood burning stove*
4 oz. aluminum pot and lid 9 oz. Ridgerest sleeping pad
* This is a custom made item. Alcohol or Trioxane stoves are more readily available.The same items add up to 4 bs.,1 oz.
This is less than the weight of a typical empty backpack. With ultra light gear it is relatively easy to keep your pack weight, minus food and water, less than 10 lbs. With a total pack weight less than 20 lbs it is possible to walk briskly for long periods of time.
Do you regularly travel with 30 to 40 lbs on your back? Add any weapons to your pack and the weight goes up dramatically. A difficult situation is not the time to practice being a beast of burden. In addition, a heavy load will have an impact on your ability to respond to confrontations or emergencies.
You should include an ultra-light BOB in your vehicle kit.
Packs
There are a number of choices for commercially made ultra light backpacks (packs under 2 lbs.). This is a pricey way to go and most of the commercially made packs are still heavier than they need to be. In Beyond Backpacking: Ray Jardine's Guide to Lightweight Hiking the author describes a basic design for an ultra light backpack you can make yourself. It will be lighter, under 1lb., considerably cheaper and will have just the features you want. While you are at it you can make one for each member of your family.
Pack Specifications
An ultra-light backpack should have an interior volume of about 2500 cubic inches. It shouldn’t be much bigger than this because it is not designed to weigh more than 20 lbs fully loaded. For additional features I like a couple of water bottle pockets on either side that will take the tall 1.5 liter water bottles from the supermarket. I also like a waist strap.
The typical backpack has a hip belt and a rigid structure to transfer the weight of the pack to your hips rather than hanging it off your shoulders. Ray Jardine does away with the hip belt to save weight and keeps the pack light enough that it can hang from the shoulders.
I also suggest designing your pack so that your sleeping pad (I use a head-to-hip length Ridge Rest) folded in fourths can be fastened in place with two vertical straps inside your pack against the back. This provides structure and padding to protect your back from any hard items in the pack. If the pack is properly loaded it is stiff enough to ride on the top of your butt when pulled into the small of your back by the waist strap. If you arch your back the shoulder straps will stand free of your shoulders. In normal use the shoulder straps bear against the front of your shoulder to keep the pack from falling over backwards.
To load the pack, stuff your sleeping bag directly into the pack instead of using a stuff sack. Stuff your other things into the pack pushing the sleeping bag down as necessary. This technique ensures that your pack will always maintains its proper shape no matter how much or how little you put into it.
Plans for a 13.5 oz pack can be found on http://www.gossamergear.com/cgi-bin/gossamergear/myog.html
Sleeping Bag
Many ultra-lighters have moved away from conventional sleeping bags. They are not as efficient as a quilt or top bag. The material and insulation on the bottom just adds weight and expense without doing much to keep you warm. The sleeping pad will provide underneath insulation. Ray Jardine uses a purpose built quilt. I use a down top bag.
My basic design for a top bag is 38” wide at the foot by 48” wide at the top by as long as it needs to be to accommodate your height. I included a short zipper to create a pocket for my legs from the knees down. It would be lighter without the zipper but the zipper allows it to be opened up for use as a quilt. There is a drawstring at the top with Velcro tabs at the top corners. I also attached 10” wide “wings” to the sides of the bag from the top down to the zipper. I tuck these pieces of fabric under myself when I lie down. Some of the commercial top bags use straps that run underneath you and join the two sides together
When I crawl into my bag I zip up the foot and put my legs into it while sitting up. I adjust the drawstring to fit around my neck. I fasten the Velcro tabs behind my neck. I lie down and roll from side to side so I can tuck the "wings" under me. I cover my head with a jacket or wear a down hood to bed.
Plans and materials for a 17 oz. down quilt can be found on http://www.thru-hiker.com
Shelter
A Silnylon tarp is a very popular shelter solution for the ultra-light hiking crowd. It will provide the same advantages for you in your ultra-light BOB.
Silnylon is lightweight rip stop nylon that has been saturated with silicone based water proofing compound. It increases the weight and strength of the fabric slightly and makes it waterproof. The waterproofing can’t peel off and since the fabric is completely impregnated with waterproofing the uncoated side can’t become saturated with water like typical coated fabrics. It is the lightest and strongest waterproof fabric reasonably available and makes an excellent lightweight tarp. I also made a very satisfactory pack with this material.
Fabric, completed tarps and setup instructions can be found on http://www.thru-hiker.com and http://www.ultralighttarps.com.
I use a 5’x8’ ft. flat tarp weighing about 8 oz. as a single person shelter. An 8’x10’ ft. tarp provides better protection for two people than if you each have you own 5’x8’ tarp.
Stoves
The most popular stoves for ultra-light hikers are homemade alcohol stoves and tablet stoves that burn commercial (Esbit) tablets or military heat tablets [Hexamine "heat tabs", or Trioxane.] The commercial backpacking cartridge stoves are the next lightest option but they cost considerably more to buy and operate and they weigh more.
I would recommend a solid fuel stove for your BOB. The alcohol is at greater risk of being lost through leakage or damage to the container than are solid fuel tablets. Coghlan’s (http://www.coghlans.com/) sells a stove and tablet combo pack for about $5.
Other Items
I have covered the heaviest items above. The other things you need should be examined just as carefully for their balance of weight versus utility.
Clothes – Merino wool top, socks and underwear; down vest or jacket
Shoes – comfortable lightweight trail runners
Wind Shell/Rain Gear – Provent or Frog Toggs are light weight, inexpensive, waterproof and breathable
Pot – Walmart aluminum grease pot is light and cheap
Ground sheet – Silnylon
Water Purification – Aqua Mira
Implementing these ultra-light backpacking techniques provide not only the lightest solutions but also oftentimes the least expensive solution.
Don’t imagine that you can walk any distance carrying your BOB unless you have actually prepared to carry it. The techniques I have outlined will enable you to create an ultra light BOB that you can easily carry, leaving you fast and agile for emergencies in your travels.
More On Precious Metals, The Iranian Nuclear Situation, The Iranian Oil Bourse, and the New Silver ETF »
Friday January 27 2006
Product Review: Safecastle's New Compact "ScramKit"
A SurvivalBlog reader in Montana recommended that I take a look at the new compact "ScramKits" being offered by Safecastle. I must say that I'm impressed. They pack a lot of survival gear into a very small space. Their "Responder Personal" kit is in effect a miniature "Get Out of Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) kit or "bug out bag" (BOB) that you should keep in your car's glove box or center console box at all times. This kit fits in its own heavy duty belt pouch (available in three different colors) with ALICE/MOLLE attachments I think that the ScramKit makes the ideal "core" of a more comprehensive G.O.O.D. kit. Add a tube tent and/or a couple of heavy duty space blankets and you have shelter for longer duration. Add a canteen and a day pack full of MREs, retort packaged, and/or freeze dried food to that, and you've got sustenance for a week. Add a whompin' big sheath knife, and...
Here is what the kit contains:
* Maxpedition™ M5 waistbag in your choice of black, green, or khaki (as available)
* Personal-size first aid kit (in separately-removable bag)
* Pocket Survival Pack™ (in waterproof bag), from Adventure Medical Kits, which contains a treasure trove of goodies:
o Rescue Howler™ whistleo Emergency signal mirror
o Fluid-filled magnetic compasso Fire starter kit
o Duct tape (2" x 26")o Scalpel blade
o Stainless steel utility wire (6 feet long)o Nylon threado Nylon braided "paracord"o Fishing gear: hooks, sinkers, swivel, nylon line
o Heavy-duty aluminum foil (1 sq. yard)o Large swing needle & safety pins
o Waterproof paper and pencil * Tool Logic SL3™ folding knife with integral whistle and fire starter rod* Tool Logic Ice Card II™ credit-card multi tool system* Tool Logic T1 Tech Light™ LED clip-on flashlight
* Emegency mylar "space" blanket
* 2 earloop face masks (surgical grade) in separate ziplock bags
* 2 pairs of nitrile exam gloves (non-sterile) paired up into separate ziplock bags
* GP4L digital shortwave radio with built-in regulated LED flashlight (includes earbuds) in a crush-resistant plastic case
* 16-foot windup antenna for the GP4L radio.
The Responder Personal kit provides the following capabilities:
* Basic first aid* Basic respiratory protection (biological)
* Moderate emergency response* Basic lighting (redundant)
* Basic fire starting (redundant)* Basic tooling & gear repair
* Moderate communications (reception only) Visits Since 8/2005:
(+/- 82,100 Unique Visits Per Week.)124 Million+ Hits Since 8/2005
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may 2008: propane,gasoline,kerosene,disel.Besides the above "four-horsemen" of liquid fuels, we keep some additional fuels available. There is a supply of liquid paraffin for odorless burning in the oil lamps. Any oil lamp we keep filled with fuel for immediate access has liquid paraffin in it since it doesn't vaporize and "disappear" leaving wick-killing varnish like kerosene does. There is also some mineral spirits for the Prize stove (mineral spirits was the original fuel for oil lamps and stoves prior to the "invention" of kerosene). Additionally, we keep some naphtha (white gas/Coleman fuel) despite the fact that all of our gas appliances/lanterns are "dual fuel". I do this because it provides for the b...what was that 6-08 trick of lighting a lamp and setting it in a damp? below ground...the flame drew-in moisture? and so never ran-out of feuel...the feul acted merely as a catalyst passage between moisture and flame...(example..a drop of water makes gas-stoves burn way-hotter...example2:a car that runs on water?..example3:i do have records of such observed...but not corect concepts listed here?) see also oil-drip-on-a-brick-method...keeps brick burning?---greed:The other startling thing you will notice when looking at the Lights photo montage is that even in the western states, Americans live in a highly urbanized society. Roughly 90% of the population is crammed into 5% of the land area, mostly within 50 miles of the coast. But there are large patches of the west where there are virtually no lights at all--particularly in the Great Basin region that extends from the back side of the Sierra Nevada mountains to Utah and Eastern Oregon. The average population density in this region is less than two people per square mile.---The other obvious risk mitigation is to construct a blast/fallout shelter with a forced-air HEPA filter. If your house already has a basement, and you a---Friday April 25 2008
Letter Re: Fuel Rationing as a Deciding Factor in Activating a Remote Retreat
---My comment on the college student who advises petroleum geologist as a post-TEOTWAWKI career and advises against anything to do with electricity. My advice would be the opposite. Anything to do with oil requires a huge infrastructure of refineries, financial institutions et cetera, while small hydro, wind and solar will still be going and still viable. The current p---I.T. security professional for over 15 years, and I can say firsthand that choosing anything to do with networks or better yet information assurance and security would be a very, very wise choice.
Demand for skilled, intelligent computer and network security professionals is at an all-time high, and is increasing steadily. Further, the quality of ---Again, as things get worse in our society, the demand for people who can help ensure business continuity (and business security) for a large corporation can make a very respectable salary. In my experience, companies like GE, Proctor&Gamble, Wal-Mart, pharmaceutical companies, et cetera will do everything they can to keep making money no matter what, even if it looks like the world is ending, and they will pay handsomely for people who can help them do it.(end the world)---Wednesday April 16 2008
The Precepts of My Survivalist Philosophy
In the past week I've had three newcomers to SurvivalBlog.com write and ask me to summarize my world view. One of them asked: "I could spend days looking through [the] archives of your [many months of] blog posts. But there are hundreds of them. Can you tell me where you stand, in just a page? What distinguishes the "Rawlesian" philosophy from other [schools of] survivalist thought?"
I'll likely add a few items to this list as time goes on, but here is a general summary of my precepts:
Modern Society is Increasingly Complex, Interdependent, and Fragile. With each passing year, technology progresses and chains of interdependency lengthen. In the past 30 years, chains of retail supply have grown longer and longer. The food on your supermarket shelf does not come from local farmers. It often comes from hundreds or even thousands of miles away. This has created an alarming vulnerability to disruption. Simultaneously, global population is still increasing in a near geometrical progression. At some point that must end, most likely with a sudden and sharp drop in population. The lynchpin is the grid. Without functioning power grids, modern industrial societies will collapse within weeks.
Civilization is Just a Thin Veneer. In the absence of law an order, men quickly revert to savagery. As was illustrated by the rioting and looting that accompanied disasters in the past three decades, the transition from tranquility to absolute barbarism can occur overnight. People expect tomorrow to be just like today, and they act accordingly. But then comes a unpredictable disaster that catches the vast majority unprepared. The average American family has four days worth of food on hand. When that food is gone, we'll soon see the thin veneer stripped away.
People Run in Herds and Packs, but Both Follow Natural Lines of Drift. Most people are sheep ("sheeple"). A few are wolves that prey on others. But just a few of us are more like sheepdogs--we think independently, and instead of predation, we are geared toward protecting and helping others. People naturally follow natural lines of drift--the path of least resistance. When the Schumer hits the fan, 99% of urbanites will try to leave the cities on freeways. The highways and freeways will soon resemble parking lots. This means that you need to be prepared to both get out of town ahead of the rush and to use lightly-traveled back roads. Plan, study and practice.
Lightly Populated Areas are Safer than High Density Areas. With a few exceptions, less population means fewer problems. WTSHTF, there will be a mass exodus from the cities. Think of it as an army that is spreading out across a battlefield: The wider that they are spread, the less effective that they are. The inverse square law hasn't been repealed.
Show Restraint, But Always Have Recourse to Lethal Force. My father often told me, "It is better to have a gun and not need it, than need a gun, and not have it." I urge readers to use less than lethal means when safe and practicable, but at times there is not a satisfactory substitute for well-aimed lead going down range at high velocity.
There is Strength in Numbers. Rugged individualism is all well and good, but it takes ore than one man to defend a retreat. Effective retreat defense necessitates having at least two families to provide 24/7 perimeter security. But of course every individual added means having another mouth to feed. Absent having an unlimited budget and an infinite larder, this necessitates striking a balance when deciding the size of a retreat group.
There are Moral Absolutes. The foundational morality of the civilized world is best summarized in the Ten Commandments. Moral relativism and secular humanism are slippery slopes. The terminal moraine at the base of these slopes is a rubble pile consisting of either despotism and pillage, or anarchy and the depths of depravity. I believe that it takes both faith and friends to survive perilous times. For more background on that, see my Prayer page.
Racism Ignores Reason. People should be judged as individuals. Anyone that make blanket statements about other races is ignorant that there are both good and bad individuals in all groups. I have accepted The Great Commission with sincerity."Go forth into all nations" means exactly that: all nations. OBTW, I feel grateful that SurvivalBlog is now read in more than 100 countries. I have been given a bully pulpit, and I intend to use it for good and edifying purposes.
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those only come with study, training, and practice. Any armchair survivalist can buy a set of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken for genuine skills and practicality.
Plentiful Water and Good Soil are Crucial. Modern mechanized farming, electrically pumped irrigation, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides can make deserts bloom. But when the grid goes down, deserts and marginal farmland will revert to their natural states. In my estimation, the most viable places to survive in the midst of a long term societal collapse will be those with reliable summer rains and rich topsoil.
Tangibles Trump Conceptuals. Modern fiat currencies are generally accepted, but have essentially no backing. Because they are largely a byproduct of interest bearing debt, modern currencies are destined to inflation. In the long run, inflation dooms fiat currencies to collapse. The majority of your assets should be invested in productive farm land and other tangibles such as useful hand tools. Only after you have your key logistics squared away, anything extra should be invested in silver and gold.
Governments Tend to Expand their Power to the Point that They Do Harm. In SurvivalBlog, I often warn of the insidious tyranny of the Nanny State. If the state where you live becomes oppressive, then don't hesitate to relocate. Vote with your feet!
There is Value in Redundancy. A common saying of my readers is: "Two is one, and one is none." You must be prepared to provide for your family in a protracted period of societal disruption. That means storing up all of the essential "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" in quantity. If commerce is disrupted by a disaster, at least in the short term you will only have your own logistics to fall back on. The more that you have stored, the more that you will have available for barter and charity.
A Deep Larder is Essential. Food storage is one of the key preparations that I recommend. Even if you have a fantastic self-sufficient garden and pasture ground, you must always have food storage that you can fall back on in the event that your crops fail due to drought, disease, or infestation.
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn't make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer. With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen. Get advanced medical training. Get the best firearms training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local affiliated ARRL club. Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected over a period of years.
Old Technologies are Appropriate Technologies. In the event of a societal collapse, 19th Century (or earlier) technologies such as a the blacksmith's forge, the treadle sewing machine, and the horse-drawn plow will be far easier to re-construct than modern technologies.
Charity is a Moral Imperative. As a Christian, I feel morally obligated to assist others that are less fortunate. Following the Old Testament laws of Tzedakah (charity and tithing), I believe that my responsibility begins with my immediate family and expands in successive rings to supporting my immediate neighborhood and church, to my community, and beyond, as resources allow. In short, my philosophy is to "give until it hurts" in times of disaster.
Buy Life Assurance, not Life Insurance. Self-sufficiency and self-reliance are many-faceted. You need to systematically provide for Water, Food, Shelter, Fuel, First Aid, Commo, and, if need be, the tools to enforce Rule 308.
Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages, most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and allow you to regularly tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of timing a "Get Out of Dodge" trip at the11th hour. If circumstances dictate that you can't live at your retreat year round, then at least have a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable.
Exploit Force Multipliers. Night vision gear, intrusion detection sensors, and radio communications equipment are key force multipliers. Because these use high technology they cannot be depended upon in a long term collapse, but in the short term, they can provide a big advantage. Some low technologies like barbed wire and defensive road cables also provide advantages and can last for several decades.
Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of you have a millionaire's budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself, and be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure will be you.and your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight. Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself.
Choose Your Friends Wisely. Associate yourself with skilled doers, not "talkers." Seek out people that share your outlook and morality. Living in close confines with other families is sure to cause friction but that will be minimized if you share a common religion and norms of behavior.You can't learn every skill yourself. Assemble a team that includes members with medical knowledge, tactical skills, electronics experience, and traditional practical skills.
There is No Substitute for Mass. Mass stops bullets. Mass stops gamma radiation. Mass stops (or at least slows down ) bad guys from entering a home and depriving its residents of life and property. Sandbags are cheap, so buy plenty of them. When planning your retreat house, think: medieval castle. (See the SurvivalBlog Archives for the many articles and letters on Retreat Architecture.)
Always Have a Plan B and a Plan C. Regardless of your pet scenario and your personal grand plan of survival, you need to be flexible and adaptable. Situations and circumstances change. Always keep a G.O.O.D. kit handy, even if you are fortunate enough to live at your retreat year-round.
Be Frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One of our family mottos is: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
Some Things are Worth Fighting For. I encourage my readers to avoid trouble, most importantly via relocation to safe areas where trouble is unlikely to come to visit. But there may come an unavoidable day that you have to make a stand to defend your own family or your neighbors. Further, if you value your liberty, then be prepared to fight for it, both for yourself and for the sake of your progeny.---conditioning. You can provide charity and help to people you truly trust. I know that sounds selfish but it isn't. If you start to give food and other goods away [to strangers] you become a target and the thieves will come! If you decide to take them to a church then someone at that church is going to know you had it and again you will become a target. When people become desperate they will do anything. I hope folks realize that when these times come, a trip to town will be a heart attack event, because driving or walking down a road and not having proper recon is a nightmare waiting to happen.
Another issue I would like to make is bugging out. If you think you are going to bug out after the Schumer hits the fan, then you are full of Schumer! When it hits, there is going to be widespread panic and martial law will follow. Therefore moving is going to be a major problem. I think if you are concerned enough now to have a retreat, then move to it now. I live in semi-rural North C---depleted, grocery stores barren, and then the nightmare of trying to avoid the military and police enforcing the martial law rules. You would be either stuck at home or out in the open with no where to go. I am totally serious, either go now or prepare to stay in place.
Be physically and mentally tough. The hard times will be like nothing you can imagine unless you have been to a warring third world country. In those times everything will matter, you will see the strong survive and the rest dwindle away.---Boom. The Schumer hits the fan. You've got to get outta town. No problem, your gas tank is 1/2 full. You top it off with your large gas can, and put ---find out how difficult it is to hike in snow at altitude. How to dress in layers and learn to pace yourself to prevent perspiring, which can have detrimental effects if allowed to cool and you are not at your destination.
On other occasions we have practiced camouflage and concealment, and built lean tos, using the features found around us, rocks branches, crevices and ravines, depending on weather outlook.
While on hikes we observe and take note of natural features, wildlife, practice tracking, finding small game, finding water sources and identifying plants. On other occasions have hunted small game, which is in season. On a couple of occasions , we have even played an "adult "version of hide and seek Something , a couple of friends didn't entirely understand. The purpose was to learn to track and locate and observe others, while avoiding detection. It might come in handy.
If the hunting of small game was successful, we have cleaned and prepared the animal for consumption, when returning to camp.
Rabbits, squirrels and birds all require different preparation, with some similarities.---Again, in my estimation, Oregon, Washington, and Colorado are all getting "Californicated". In the long term, the politics, taxes, zoning, and intrusiveness of government will soon approach levels resembling California. This cultural shift has become so obvious, that some folks in eastern Oregon and eastern Washington are now calling for secession or a re-alignment of state lines to create a new state.(Many of the people living east of the Cascades want no part of the liberal-do-gooder mentality that pervades the state capitols in Salem and Olympia.)---Also, consider that a California appellate court decision recently outlawed home schooling
(to find them) except by credentialed teachers. Forget California, folks!---you say "grid down"?), etc. How many have actually considered (much less planned?) on using the following practical means of getting from Point A to B (whether a short or long distance).
1. Walking- hard work but very quiet and stealthy. Drawback- slow.
2. Bicycle. As long as you can keep your tires inflated, you can travel [at least] three times as fast than as on foot. Drawback- awkward to carry equipment unless you buy a trailer or stroller for the back.
3. Boat/canoe- Who is going to blockading the river or watching it? The river does the work for you if your are going down steam. The preferred method of
---11. Para-planes –fuel efficient, no license needed, can land in small areas.
12. Light aircraft- expensive but they are what they are.
13. Freight trains/barges/cargo ships- It seems no matter how much chaos a country descends into, occasionally a train, barge, cargo ship goes somewhere. Drawback-Can be Seasonal depending on low water levels, ice, snow.An undependable mode of transport to plan on using.
The reason you haven't considered these methods is because we as Americans are too d--n lazy and we carry around too much stuff. If your supplies are pre-positioned, you will need very little physically on you.
We as Americans are pre-conditioned to think first and foremost of the family vehicle almost exclusively. Unless you have a full tank of gas when the grid goes down or an EMP-resistant vehicle, you're screwed for any number of reasons. Your going to be thrust down a channelized highway of horrors (just ask anyone who has fled a hurricane inland). This highway can easily be barricaded by law enforcement, the military, gangs, or a group of local idiots. Accidents, traffic jams and lack of fuel will prevent you from getting out of the area at the speed which you anticipated.(get away from cars and people!)---In the first two weeks of a catastrophe, a miniscule number of people are going to be watching the rivers or lakes. They will be down looting televisions and liquor. The cops will be at roadblocks and chasing looters and arsonists. Your main antagonists are likely to be; federal employees manning the locks/dams, Conservation Officers (since they already have lots of boats, the military (probably a naval reserve unit) or in certain instances, the US Coast Guard. None of this group is usually looking for trouble on the water and Conservation Officers are notoriously cautious when working alone. It's too easy for them to just "disappear".
The larger the body of water (in square miles or distance from shore), the more distance or greater buffer you can put between you and anyone who may wish you harm. Night travel by water with no running lights and your motor off, will make you nearly invisible to 99% of the population. Watch out for logs, snags and sand bars and keep a watch out for other boats or you might well be sunk. Night vision might be handy if traveling at night. Many duck and goose hunters have metal supports for blind materials that could come in handy for camouflaging your boat if you choose to lay up during the day at some creek or island.
Your average inner city gang member doesn't know how to operate a boat and cant swim anyway, but don't count on it. Even criminals near a resort/sailing/boating area are sometimes familiar with boats. Ever heard of pirates and drug runners?
You could potentially carry much more equipment or personnel with you by means of a boat. Several Jon boats/canoes can be lashed together or roped in p---light, you might have trouble. Firstly, anyone padding along in a canoe makes a perfect target. He's not moving too fast, and has nowhere to hide. Since this will be the day after TEOTWAWKI many people might go into WDNNSB Mode or might think that they can shoot up whomever they please. Even if the savages don't kill you outright, they might shoot a few holes in your canoe for fun.---that the next major war that the US military would wage would not be like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged with traffic--the dreaded "Golden Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This will be the "come as you are" collapse.---Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as you are" premise. Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body weight reasonable? If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!--- In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do. So be sure to develop your "lists of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath of a societal collapse.(to many chores...good-old-days isgone ---If you want to try finding a retreat property via a foreclosure sale or auction, keep in mind the following dos and don'ts:
1.) Do your homework. Study the markets in your planned retreat locales, in detail. Study the microclimates and soils. Ask a real estate agent in your target area to provide you with a print-out of the actual closing prices (often called a "realized price sheet" or just a "closings sheet") for the county for the past year.
2.) Do pay attention to Multiple Listing Service (MLS) numbers. These numbers are typically assigned sequentially. The lower the number means the longer that a property has been on the market, and hence more likely you are to encounter a "motivated seller." (In today's depressed real estate market, you can now translate that as "desperate seller.")
3.) Don't get caught in the same trap as the previous owners. Don't buy beyond your means. If you can't make the payments, then you will lose the property, just like your predecessor. Don't just assume that you can find a job when you move to the hinterboonies. (Maybe that is just what the previous owner thought!) I recommend building up a home-based business before you move. If at all possible, borrow any money needed within your family, rather than from a bank. Alternatively, pool funds with like-minded preppers, and break up a large parcel. (In my experience, joint ownership of retreats is problematic. Just split it up into contiguous parcels with title held by individual families. Yes, surveying and subdividing is expensive and time consuming, but at least there are no hard feelings in the long run. I 've seen all sorts of grief, under other arrangements.)
4.) Don't compromise on location. As I mentioned in my book "Rawles on Retreats and Relocation", you should avoid both resort areas and channelized areas. Look for lightly populated dryland farming regions that are well-removed from major metropolitan areas, and that have good soil and plentiful water. (Even without buying my book, you can see a lot of my advice on retreat buying criteria and recommended locales at this web page.)
5.) Don't rush into buying the first likely candidate property. Watch and wait for a property that is both in a good retreat locale, and is a bargain.
6.) Don't hesitate to sell now, if you know for certain that you'll be moving within three years. If you need to sell your current property to provide cash for the eventual purchase of a retreat, then consider that the urgent item on your agenda. Prices are falling and buyers are scarce, so price your property accordingly, to be sure that it will sell quickly. Rent for a while. (Perhaps even "rent back" your house from the new owners.) Let the new owners worry about its declining value. After you've liquidated, you'll be sitting on cash in the midst of a declining market--a true "buyer's market". At that point you can afford to take your time, be choosy, and drive hard bargains.
7.) Don't be afraid to put in a lowball offer. If a property is "bank owned"--I love that euphemism--then they might be willing to sell it at a loss, just to get it off their books.
Letter Re: Consumer Price Inflation is Upon Us |Main| Note from JWR:
Sunday February 10 2008
Impassable Freeways and Highways in an Eleventh Hour "Get Out of Dodge"
Jim,I found some depressing analysis on G.O.O.D. for those of us near US population centers: Read this PDF. you wont make-it-out-in-time! ie.good-dosnt-work.you got to live it now. not when its to late.---First Steps
Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water.
Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack as necessary. Get some food grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place.
Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and ways to deal with them. What is your plan to deal with each?
Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash.
Practice. This doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water (in your backyard to start with). Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had to evacuate. How long did it take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out of town. Go hiking with your 72 hour kit.
Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans.
Books and other sources (in order of relevance and grouped)---the old-pen-methond(mighter than the sword?) of getting land:can recommend for a after a TSHTF situation in which the government has raised taxes so much that you are hinging on hanging on to your retreat? Any examples that worked back in the 1930s? I know you can relate due to your family's history that you have spoken of. What could we do as a plan to save our properties?
Who can we expect to knock on the door, (i.e.- what entities)?
Do you think there will be more motivation to seize productive ground?
Do you think there will be more motivation to seize ground that has equity in it?
Do you think there will be more of a chance of the Government or the Lender coming to knock on the door if you fall behind on your mortgage payments or property tax installment?
Do you think legal representation will actually prove beneficial under such implied circumstances?
Would you recommend being overly helpful to them at that hypothetical point, or would you recommend dragging your feet hoping that maybe they go on to a quicker seizure of someone else's property?
These are questions that I hasten to type, but, maybe someone has thought of the aftermath and can offer some good sound advice since we will unlikely be able to communicate or have access to the Internet under such circumstances, nor afford an expensive Attorney. - The Wanderer
JWR Replies: I'd like to address this from two distinct angles: tax delinquency and mortgage delinquency. I'll address mortgage delinquency first, since it is far more likely.
Mortgage Delinquency:
It may sound like an elementary precept, but when you buy any property using a mortgage, you don't really own that property until the mortgage is paid in full. It is the banker's house, not yours, until it is entirely paid off. In essence, in the eyes of the law the lender is still the owner. If you get delinquent in your payments for long enough (it varies depending on the state where you live), then you can count on foreclosure and if need be, being forcibly evicted. Currently the county sheriff's deputies in California's post-bubble Central Valley are presently busy with a lot of evictions.
Before talking about delinquency and foreclosure, I should mention one protective measure. State laws vary, but a Declaration of Homestead can help protect your house (and typically just the one acre that it sits on) from creditors in some circumstances. Be sure to research your state's declaration of homestead law thoroughly. In many states, a homestead exemption is automatic--you aren't required to file a homestead declaration in order to claim the homestead exempt status. Again, these laws can vary widely, so do your homework.
Here are some of my thoughts on the four most-often suggested solutions for preventing foreclosure:
Borrow money from friends or family members: This might be an option, but unless you know for certain that you can meet the new payment schedule, then don't do it. It will only cause familial strife that could last for decades.
Borrow from a different bank to get back up to date on past-due payments: This can be accomplished by means of a second mortgage, but I must warn readers that is having trouble paying a first mortgage, then taking out a second mortgage is most likely just a stop-gap measure.
File in Bankruptcy Court (Chapter 7 or 13): Generally not recommended, since it could take decades to recover. You could conceivably keep a mortgaged house when going through either Chapter 7 or Chapter 13.
Sell the property: Most people consider this a last resort, but my personal opinion is that it should be the first option that you consider. Typically, if you find new financing then you will most likely fall behind again on your payments and the end result will be the same: foreclosure. So it is usually best to cut your losses and sell the house. If you are in a situation where you "upside down" in the mortgage (where the value of the property has declined to below what you still owe on the property), then it is probably best to just pack up and move, and mail you banker the keys. (This has recently been dubbed "jingle mail.") With continuing sharp declines in house prices expected in the next few years in the over-bought coastal markets, I predict that the "Midnight Flit" will become a commonplace occurrence.
Tax Delinquency:
This was the situation that my great grandparents were in, back in the 1930s. They owned a large sheep ranch in northern California. At the beginning of the Great Depression they were land rich but cash poor. By the end of the Depression, that had neither much money or land. By 1942, the county had taken most of the ranch for back taxes.
The only safe and sure prevention for such situations is to have cash in the bank, or highly liquid tangibles (such as precious metals). With cash in the bank you can sleep well, knowing that you'll always be able to pay your property taxes. The property tax rates vary tremendously from state to state. The tax rates tend to be the highest in the northeastern US, and lowest in the south and the west. Needless to say, I recommend relocation to states with low property tax rates.
If and when you can't pay your taxes, you can try some legal maneuvers, but once the deputies arrive, don't try anything melodramatic. They are just the instrument of the courts, and it is in the courts that you must find your remedy and recourse. When it comes to foreclosures, unless you live in a county with a particularly corrupt government, I don't thing that it will make much difference how much equity you hold, and or whether or not the land is productive. If you get in arrears on your taxes, they will be "equal opportunity destroyers." The tax sales may get delayed in some cases, but inevitably if you don't pay the taxes, then the land will be seized.
OBTW, speaking of forfeiture for back taxes, if you are looking for bargain retreat properties in rural regions, you can occasionally find small parcels that are available for just the price of catching up on their back taxes. (Again, state laws vary widely.) Typically these are undeveloped parcels that were bought decades before. The owners, often out of state, changed mailing addresses, and somewhere along the line--often because of a death in the family--the property was forgotten, the taxes lapsed, and with no mail forwarding address, the property was eventually seized by the county for back taxes. You can find some such properties through services like Foreclosure.com. But in some cases you have to visit the County Recorder/Assessor's Office to find out about such parcels. You should get to know the people at your Recorder's office anyway, so if nothing else this is a good excuse to go and visit. ---Government or Community Shelter: As a last resort, you may temporarily reside in a shelter. A church operated temporary disaster shelter is usually less restrictive than other types of shelters. However, before you go to the shelter it would probably be a good idea to rent a temporary storage facility---shelter location. Just remember that some shelters are easy to get into but almost impossible to get out of until the authorities are ready to release you. If you become a voluntary prisoner at one of these shelters you may discover that life in the shelter is unbearable and that you are not allowed to leave simply because you now realize you should have never entered the shelter. When you first enter the shelter, there is a strong likelihood that government shelter personnel will carefully search you and confiscate any weapons, knives, drugs including prescription medicines, tools, children---And finally, 9/11/2001 could easily have been a nuclear event instead of a [hijacked] airliner event.
Those of us in the east are downwind of most [nuclear] targets in the US . The free online book "Nuclear War Survival Skills" is a must. Print it and read it. Know how and when to take shelter from fallout. You need not have a shelter in a basement. The interior of a high rise building offers excellent protection from low level radiation. But you should plan your actions in advance.---Saturday December 8 2007
Your Life in Your Pocket by John T.
A significant part of being prepared and being able to weather a crisis is having information. Remember, those in charge now will make it their first priority after TSHTF to return to the status quo. Banks and mortgage companies will do everything possible to continue banking and lending. Landlords will do whatever it takes to make sure they continue to collect rent from their tenants, and any police or military personnel you come into contact with will be very unhappy if you cannot prove who you are or otherwise deflect suspicion.
You can call having critical information available during and after a crisis "life continuity." There are three aspects to it: collection, protection, and dispersion.
The first step is collection. Just as with other aspects of your survival plan, you'll want to make a list of the information you want to collect and have available during and after a crisis. Such a list should include:
- medical information and records for all family members
- names, addresses, and contact numbers of relatives, doctors and insurance companies
- copies of wills, living trusts, powers of attorney, and other legal documents
- copies of insurance policies
- copies of birth certificates, wedding licenses, children's school records, and college transcripts
- copies of property ownership documents, such as mortgage agreements and property deeds
- copies of driver licenses and passports
- e-books or scanned pages from knowledge materials you've collected
- as many family photos as you feel you need, but at a minimum make sure there is a clear "head shot" of everyone in your family that can be used by authorities if needed to conduct a search
- video taped walk-throughs of your house and property showing major purchases and valuables and the condition of any buildings
While some of the items above might seem like overkill, it is important to remember that you can never have enough supporting documentation if you ever need to prove your case or prove your identity. Imagine bugging out of your home and going to your retreat for three months, only to return to your home after the all clear to find it occupied by squatters. Will you be able to prove the house is yours? If your insurance company denies your claim, will you have the materials ready to counter their argument in your appeal?
Once you've collected the documents and photos, the next step is protection. At a minimum, you'll want to have a fireproof box or safe to hold your documents. Even better, get a box or safe that is waterproof as well. For example, Sentry makes a small waterproof and fireproof lockbox for well under $100. You might even be able to pick one up for much less at a garage sale or flea market. Put your safe in an obscure location in your home, and use any supplied mounting hardware to mount the safe to the floor or wall to prevent thieves from simply lifting it up and walking away with it. Avoid any safe or lockbox that requires power to operate, such as batteries or a wall plug. This includes the fancy safes with biometric access mechanisms. You don't need Fort Knox; you just need to be reasonably protected. If you can't afford a lockbox or safe, at least put your document stash into a large Ziploc bag and put it somewhere safe. You could put it into a locking file cabinet or even put it into a five-gallon pail and bury it.
Dispersion is another key element to protecting your information stash. Make copies of everything and mail a set to your lawyer and a couple sets to trusted family members. Mailing a set to family outside of your region is an especially good idea. For example, if you live in the Midwest, you would want to send a copy to someone on the east coast or perhaps out west. Use a service with a tracking number that requires a signature so that you can be sure the documents arrive at their location. Even better is to scan everything into an electronic format. PDF is best, as it can be read on just about any computer. Take the electronic copies and write them to a CD or DVD, also known as "burning to disk" since the CD/DVD drive's laser cctually burns information into the disk. CD and DVD writers are very cheap nowadays, on the order of $20-$30 for a brand new unit and a few dollars for the disk media. Keep a couple copies along with your paper (hard) copies, and send out a DVD to your family members instead of a large pack of documents.
Some people also keep electronic copies of their important documents on USB keys. USB keys are also known as "thumb drives" because of their size. Any computer with a USB port can access a USB key as if it was a hard drive. Keep in mind, though, that a USB key is electronic and will be susceptible to anything that would damage electronics such as a magnetic field. While it might not seem like a good idea to keep important info on something that could end up damaged, the point is to analyze the trade-off between convenience and accessibility without hurting reliability. If you have hard copies of everything, then using something as convenient as a USB key might be an advantage. For example, you could hook the USB key to your belt and walk into a disaster relief shelter to use the computer there instead of walking around with a big pack of important papers.
If you choose to make electronic copies of your information, you will want to encrypt everything and make sure to use innocent-sounding labels. Imagine sending a DVD labeled "Our Family's Important Information" to someone on the other side of the country. If that DVD were to fall into the wrong hands, those people would have everything they needed to steal your identity. Instead, label the CD or DVD something like "Our Family Vacation 2006" where "2006" is the year that the DVD was made. That way you will know which is the most recent.
Encrypting your information sounds difficult, but it is actually pretty easy. The only downside is that you will need a computer to decrypt the information once it is encrypted. There are numerous free and open encryption programs available at no charge. My favorite is called TrueCrypt. How it works is beyond the scope of this article, but it is safe to say that if you encrypt your information with TrueCrypt, it would take all the computers in the world several hundreds of years to crack it. TrueCrypt runs on Windows computers only, but similar applications are available for Mac OS X and Linux.
If you are technically savvy and really want to take your USB key to the next level, you can install a complete operating system onto the USB key itself. An example would be PenDrive Linux or Damn Small Linux. Damn Small Linux is only 50 MB in size! With the OS right on your USB key, you could keep all your information encrypted and never have to worry about what type of computer you would need to decrypt and view your information.
Many people focus on the tangible aspects of being prepared. Beans, bandages and bullets are important, but so are intangibles like information. With a small amount of effort and little to no expenses, you can make sure all the information your family might need to survive, regroup, and move on is protected and in an easily-accessible and safe location.
Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Survivalist Matchmaking Services
Thursday December 6 2007
Letter Re: Preparedness for Less Than a Worst Case, From an Eastern Urbanite's Perspective
---I would argue that people in third world countries are accustomed to: currency devaluation, military controls, rioting in the streets, high crime rates, food shortages, breakdown of infrastructure [such as extended power failures], et cetera.
So for the average Third World resident these things are not TEOTWAWKI. Now consider the suburbanite in the US of A:, "John Smith": John is definitely not used to seeing the value of his money vanish before his own eyes. John Smith is not used to getting mugged every day on his way home. John Smith is not used to seeing the military on his street. John Smith is not used to rioting in his city. John Smith is not used to two or three days of brown-outs or black-outs.
John Smith gets angry and extremely frustrated when someone cuts him off in traffic. John's wife Sally is irate when she loses satellite reception during Oprah and she misses the required reading section. John and Sally's kids are even worse.
And that's suburban folks, what most of us would call "middle class." We won't even bother to talk about some of the other's actions, just find the archives of Hurricane Katrina and the New Orleans Superdome and you'll figure that out. [JWR Adds: Lest anyone consider this a quasi-racist statement from R.H., bear in mind that some of the looters caught on film in New Orleans were white and hispanic. The tendency toward looting and other acts of lawlessness during disasters is tied to economics and whether or not children have a law-abiding, morally-grounded upbringing, not race.]---Media:
Bookmark your favorite conservative radio shows' web sites! Because you are not going to hear them on the airwaves around here. To give you an idea which way the wet side media leans: A cat getting shot with a BB gun will be reported with more gravity and sympathy than the beating death of a child or the gang rape of a young woman. 'Nuff said?
Culture?
- We got tons of it! As long as it's oh-so properly PC.
Crime:
- Can we say "methamphetamine?" Keep an eye on your back 40. It may sprout a meth lab. (So might the neighbor's rental property.)
- High rates of burglary and car theft
- Robberies and home invasions up
- I.D. theft on the rise
Hazards
- The Economic Bubble os due to burst. We've always had a boom and bust economy here, and it's been riding high for too long.
- Earthquake
o We're overdue for "The Big One." This is especially true for the Cascadia Subduction Zone and the Seattle fault complex.---I'd be very interested in your thoughts about what urbanites should be doing to prepare for bad times, given the restrictions of space, limited knowledge of/interest in outdoorsman skills, "Yuppie" lifestyle constraints, etc. Thanks. - D.C.
JWR Replies: For someone that lives on Manhattan Island, you are definitely quite well-prepared!
Some preparedness upgrades that I'd recommend for you:
1.) Pre-positioning some supplies stored with friends or relatives, or perhaps in a commercial storage space, at least 150 miles out of the city, on your intended "Get Out of Dodge" route. (For that dreaded "worst case.")
2.) Adding a rifle to your firearms battery. With New York City's semi-auto and magazine restrictions, you might consider a .308 Bolt action with either a small detachable magazine, or perhaps a non-detachable magazine. A Steyr Scout would be a good choice. Some semi-auto rifles that might be approved include top-loading M1 Garands and FN49s. (No doubt easier if you are a member of a CMP-associated shooting club.) If you can't get permit approval for any modern rifles, then there is a handy exemption for long guns "manufactured prior to 1894 and replicas which are not designed to fire fixed ammunition, or for which fixed ammunition is not commercially available." You might consider a pre-1894 production Winchester Model 1876 or 1886 in an obsolete caliber such as .40-60 or .45-90. (See my FAQ on pre-1899 cartridge guns for details. Be sure to select rifles with excellent bores and nice mechanical condition.
3.) A small photovoltaic panel for recharging your flashlights, radios, and night vision gear batteries.(Along with a 300+ Amp Hour 12 VDC "Jump Pack" (such as JCWhitney.com's item # ZX265545) and 12 VDC "DC to DC" battery charging trays and the various requisite cords.)
4.) A supply of antibiotics.
5.) Consult your local fire code, and store the maximum legally-allowable quantity of extra gasoline, assuming you have a safe place to store it. (I realize that most Manhattanites have their cars stored commercially with no additional storage space, and it can be a 20 minute car-juggling exercise j--- end of 28gooda.txt ----------- ----start of 28goodb.txt (best notes for print?):---Friday November 30 2007
The Pre-Test and the Ultimate Test
There may come a day when you have to put all of your training and preparations to use. That will be ultimate test of whether or not you have a true survival mindset. Do you think that you are ready for WTSHTF, physically and mentally? Assuming that you live in the suburbs, try a weekend "grid down" test with your family. This will test both your mental preparedness and how well you have prepared for the basics. Here is how it is done: Some Friday evening, unannounced, turn off your main circuit breaker and shut the valves the gas main and the water main. Leave them off until Monday morning. You might be surprised how the weekend goes. One thing that I can guarantee you: Some of the most accurate lists of logistics that you will ever compose are those written by candlelight.---JWR Replies: In the event of a national banking crisis and bank "holiday", I predict that all bank doors will be closed and that every form of electronic money will be inoperative (ATMs, debit cards, credit cards, et cetera.) You might be able to write checks at some local businesses, but don't depend on being able to do so. There is even a smaller chance that some "Mom & Pop" stores will manually run a credit card slip for later processing, but that would be horribly naive of them. Nearly all merchants now use "Point of Purchase" (POP) electronic processing via a phone line to confirm credit card purchases, but the POP systems will surely be "down.")
If you can afford to, I recommend that you keep at least $1,000 in greenbacks on hand at all times. ---Thursday November 15 2007
Letter Re: The Importance of Making Your BOV Less Visible(car)---winter:Fire starting kit with plenty of tinder.---JWR Replies: As a Baptist, I don't personally stock any liquor for barter. But many folks see the wisdom of doing so. OBTW, if you do buy any liquor, one variety stock up on is the 190 Proof variety of Everclear grain alcohol, which also has medicinal purposes (for sterilizing instruments and for making tinctures) and can be used as lamp fuel.---citys-on-fire.sf-fires:1) Main travel ways, arterials and so on are clogged. Fire and emergency vehicles going in, folks evacuating out. As a kid in San Diego, I watched some friends get seriously burned in their vehicle when they were trapped in a blow over, caused by them staying too late. Burning to near death in their car was horrific enough. Over 250,000 people ordered to evacuate. San Diego has an excellent highway system but when you have that many moving . . .
2) Many folks have been reluctant to leave. Family has stated that they are aware that looters and burglars have worked some mandatory evacuated neighborhoods to their benefit. If your house doesn't burn, it could get robbed.
3) What people are packing for evacuation in their vehicle is insane. Everything but what they really need (documents, photos, family bible, etc.).
---Here in the northern tier of the country winter travel must be considered a possibility, being an unprepared refugee in the middle of a sub-zero cold snap would not be pleasant. Being prepared means layered winter clothing, winter footwear, winter camping equipment and plenty of white gas or unleaded gasoline stove fuel to melt snow or boil water. Expect to carry a 60 to 80 pound pack. My plan includes spending a winter (December thru March) away from my base of operations. A bug-out route /cache plan may allow you to take control of your situation and reduce your chances of becoming a refugee, internee or casualty in a desperate situation. Seeking the Lord God Almighty's protection, salvation and will for your life through prayer in Jesus' name will allow Him to take control of your situation whatever the circumstances are!!! - N.H.---written previously in SurvivalBlog, I strongly prefer the strategy of fixed retreats over nomadic approaches to survivalism. But I have never ruled out mobility as a tactic. Nor have I ever suggested holding one's ground at all costs. There must always be a "Plan B". If that necessitates "bugging out" and abandoning one's land, livelihood, and a portion of one's logistics, then so be it. Plan accordingly.--- unless blessed with amazing success at gardening, you soon will be reduced to the level of refugee. And unless you have secreted caches of fuel and have considerable good fortune to be able to reach them as needed, you will also soon be on foot. If the history of the 20th Century taught us anything, it is that the least desirable category for a citizen in turbulent times is refugee.
Mobility has it uses, but mobility for the sake of mobility has so many drawbacks that is borders on foolishness. In the context of a full scale economic collapse with widespread lawlessness, mobility means the opportunity to run into one ambush after another. It is far better to have a well-stocked and self-sufficient retreat with the option of mobility,---the city. The only routes out of the city are backed up enough during the day, let alone rush hour, and let's not even think about a panicked evacuation.
My suggestion is living off the beaten path, but still close enough to Philly to have a reasonable commute. To anyone interested living in the Philadelphia region, Oxford would be a wonderful location. Your average drive time into the city is about an hour, and you have direct access to Route 1.
The best thing about Oxford [Pennsylvania] however, is that you're in Amish country. If TEOTWAWKI truly kicks into high gear, bartering and trading with your neighbors shouldn't be any problem whatsoever. Most of them currently use the barter system. During the winter months, my brother in law plows their driveways, and they let us hunt on their land. That's just one small example.---Monday October 1 2007
Letter Re: A Security Contractor's Convoy Experience in Iraq ---life in your-town.payd-mercinaries work for their 'client'...so you live it now and it wont be a problem when everyone else is shooting farmers:::1.create a crisis they wont blame on you 2.make victims come to you for secuity
Yesterday a friend of mine who runs a small security company here in Iraq emailed me. He is standing up a protection detail and wanted my opinion on tactics and equipment running the roads of Iraq; Tactics, SOPs, hard car or soft? I have been giving it some thought and here is where I am at.
I am willing to speculate I'm as well traveled in Iraq as anyone I've met. I've been just about everywhere between Kuwait and Iran, all points in between. And I've traveled every way possible.
I've gone in military convoy up armored hummers at 40 MPH. I've run the Fallujah Baghdad gauntlet in a 15 truck convoy, thin skinned white F350s. I've rolled all over in blacked out Pajeros in local dress. Diplomatic convoys with armored suburbans and helo cover.
I've done the whole hide the guns and smile a lot all the way to showing just about everyone the front sight post.
I've done 140 KPH up MSR Tampa and weaved through Sadr city at a near standstill.
I, like nearly everyone have made mistakes and been lucky to be here writing this.
I think the most important and neglected aspect of survival in theatre is training. Every freaking day your crew should practice "actions on" - At least do it on a dry erase board. Actions upon anything and everything. What usually happens is we start going through the "what ifs" and all the sudden every guy in the crew has a different idea of what should happen. After all we come from many different backgrounds. After about 30 minutes of that we all end up scratching our head debating which idea is best and say "let's get chow." Decide on some fundamental concepts. And stick to them, but of course always remembering that the plan is just something to deviate from anyway. As long as we all know the end goal and work toward it. i.e. If the vehicle is stalled in the ambush, driver flicks it in neutral so the rear car can ram us out and we prepare to un-ass the vehicle on the opposite side of the contact.
So rehearse and practice - Which is easy to say because I am the first to admit that a knock on my hooch at 7AM with, "Hey, man, let's rehearse this" makes me grumble.
I'm sure we can all agree that debating your actions on is best done at the hootch rather than on the side of a road in Tikrit while your car is being remodeled by a PKM.
PMCS your vehicles all the time. Being broke down in Iraq is like a scene on a bad movie. Been there done that. Check tires, oil, fluid, etc... And don't overdrive your car. My friend VC managed to put a Pajero upside down and backwards on Tampa once because we pushed the cars past their controllability.
Every IC you meet will tell you he is a great driver. Just because you drive fast and haven't hit anything yet doesn't mean you're a good tactical driver. Go to BSR or some other school. And if you haven't let the guy who has drive. Conduct driver training. Get the best guy to teach everyone else. OJT.
Practice changing tires. There are a couple guys reading this email right now who know exactly what I am talking about. Realizing you've packed 300 pounds of gear on top the spare while on the side of a road in Ramadi is a self loathing I'd like not replicate. Make sure you have a tow strap in every vehicle. Loop it through the rear bumper so it's already attached. that way you swing in front of the busted car and they hook up. Gone in 60 seconds or vice versa... Get a good jack, it's worth the money. Make sure everyone knows where all the tow, change, repair gear is in every vehicle.
In the glove box keep your stay behinds. A frag, Smoke, CN. The rule is. Never f*ck with the pin unless you have the grenade outside of the window. Hit a bump and it drops on the roadside. Minimal drama. Inside the car? Party foul. Use CN and Smoke. If you're caught in traffic and you have a bad feeling about a car behind you, toss the smoke. Most motorists will stop or at least give you a lot of space. It works and it's harmless. Can use more sparingly and never while in tight traffic. Watching that cloud blow towards your car faster than you can drive is not fun. The CN is rough stuff and I only would use it on those rare situations where it just has to be done. And the frag? Well we all know when those need to be used.
Put a rubber band on your sling so it doesn't get caught on stuff while getting out of the car.
Always do a proper route plan. Common sense here. And another note, we are always trying to be sneakier and cleverer than everyone else. Avoiding MSR's and roads frequented by convoys you know the deal. Well before taking a road you see on a map that isn't used by the Army. Go see the G2, ask them why. It may be for good reason.
Think about fuel consumption. Plan your stops for fuel and food. Always carry a gas can, just in case.
Always have spare batteries for the GPS, Always have a map and compass just like when we were E1's. Do a map study; make sure everyone in the crew knows the route plan.
Carry as big a gun as you can. Keep it clean. Keep it hot.
Carry lots of ammo. On April 4th I went through 14 mags and never would have thought that a possibility before then. Carry more ammo, stage spare mags everywhere. Like the freakin Easter bunny.
I will never go without wearing a helmet again. If there is a Kevlar helmet, it's going on my head. A dude standing right next to all of us on the roof was dropped from a head shot. Spend the money get a good MICH or the like. The more comfortable and low profile the more likely it is you'll wear it. Wear a helmet. Watching Alcon get blasted in the noggin was a SOP changing experience for all of us here.
Wear your armor. Period.
If you sleep in a trailer or hootch, know where the nearest bunker is. Trying to find it at 4 AM while scared sh*tless isn't the answer. And yes everyone runs for the bunker. The Delta dude who is always giving the evil eye will probably be the first one there followed immediately after by a SEAL in flip-flops. 120mm mortars make us all very humble.
Shoot a lot. Keep training. If your company won't get more ammo, make them dry fire. Practice mag changes. Focus on cheek weld and front site. The basics win every time.
The three guys shot on the roof here were all either changing mags while standing or weren't moving to different firing positions frequently - all were regular military and not contractors. They were doing standard Army range sh*t. And got dropped for it...
You remember when Sam Elliot said "If I need one there will be plenty laying around" in the film We Were Soldiers Once, in regards to the rifles? He was right. If you've seen those pictures of us on the net Chip was on a SAW and I had a M203. There were weapons strewn about the roof by wounded and those who elected to not play on the two way range. No sh*t. By the end of week two here we all had our choice in weapons. No sh*t. We fired RPK, AK47, PKM, MK19, M249, M203, M4, Dragunov, and M60 at bad guys between the eight of us... That was unreal.
This brings me onto this - Train on all weapons. If you don't have access at least read the FM or TM on them. You never know when you're out of 5.56 and someone will hand you a PKM. Get familiar with them.
Practice shooting out to 800 meters. I know, nearly every fight is within 150 [meters] but we were trying to bang a mortar crew that was pounding us at 800 meters. And it happened more than once.
In terms of shooting. Practice as you did on active duty. Always scrounge ammo.
I will ALWAYS take a hard car over a soft. Its just common sense at this point. If I have a soft car I will sandbag the floors and jam steel and spare plates everywhere I can. Bolt on armor is sh*t, but better than nothing. Remove the Lexan windows from the gun trucks. Just like in the old days nothing breaks contact quite like returning accurate, violent fire.
The rear vehicle is always most likely to be hit. Put your best shooters in there, biggest guns.
The Golden CONEX box. It ain't coming dude. If I had a nickel for every time I have been told "Oh yeah man, we ordered ten of those and they should be here in three days" Or my favorite "don't worry, it will meet you in country." If you don't have good guns, ammo, armor, or comms, just say no like Nancy Reagan used to say. Some companies are total pieces of sh*t and will leave you in Iraq with a busted ass stolen AK and two mags. Some will do you better than a tier one unit. Personally, I just want the above mentioned items and the rest to go to my bank account. If I want a three hundred dollar backpack Ill buy it.
Bottom line. Remember what gear is critical. Demand it be the best and take proper care of it.
Medical equipment. It's expensive. It has saved lives. The company I currently work for spent a gazillion dollars outfitting each crew with great mad gear. I'm sure the bill was hard to swallow. I sh*t you not it saved three people's lives, all had life threatening injuries. The med kits and our 18Ds saved them. The Army had a few bandages and an IV. That was it. You know who you are, thank you for spending the money...
Do remedial med[ical] training. Can't say anymore on that issue. Do it.
Wherever you go carry lots of booze. It's the most valuable item you can have. If I wrote a list of things I have managed to swindle with a bottle of Jack [Daniels whiskey] placed in an E8's hands you would cr*p you're pants.
Don't get drunk and stupid. Be drunk or stupid but never both at once.
Never let the client convince you "it's safe, I do this all the time." If it's stupid it's stupid.
On the same note. Remember if we hamper our client's ability to do their job too much. Our company can get sh*tcanned. It's a fine line. Yeah, your client thinks it's cute to drive to some Hadji's house at midnight for tea, sometimes you just have to do it.
Learn to deal with all the clients. Some truly think that all Iraqis are great people and that the US Army is the enemy. Some will encourage you to shoot bicyclists who hog the road. I've seen both sides. Keep their agenda and egos in mind. Don't make your own life miserable.
Aimpoints are great. The Eotech is okay. TA31 ACOG is the best by far. The Aimpoint battery lasts six months. The Eotech is a little too bright for my taste. Remember that the dot is like 3 MOA in size so they aren't any good past 300 or 400. The ACOG is the heat.
Buy short M4s. They will save you're ass. I carry a 18" upper on me with glass so when we reach our destination I flick it on the lower receiver and I now have a decent long gun. It's like having two guns to choose from.
If you're doing Green Zone PSD a mag or two may do you but if you're in the party zone? Twelve.
Speaking of which, weapon, twelve mags, pistol, three mags, Med kit, GPS, map and compass, radio, spare battery, $500 [in] US dollars, MRE , water bottle, NVG, armor. It's a lot. It's hot but f**k it, if its too heavy get membership at the gym. This job isn't for everybody.
In your vehicle. Put a US flag on the visor so nobody can see it until you approach a checkpoint, then flip it down. On the passenger side do the same with a VS17 panel. G.I. Joe will shoot your a** just as soon as a Hadji will.
Carry MREs and water in your car.
NEVER throw food or candy to kids. there are many reasons why. But at the least it encourages kids to jump in front of cars, smashing a kid would ruin your trip here.
If you find yourself trusting the locals its time to take a vacation.
Walk the fine line. Don't be too conservative and don't get blown up.
Listen to your intuition. It has saved a guy who is on this mailing list and not listening to it killed a friend a month ago.
Once you make contact ... Finish it. If you shot a guy and he is limping to cover he can still get there and return fire. Just finish everything you start.
A car door is not cover. In fact a car is not cover. Cement is.
While doing the work-up for my last deployment we did live fire IADS and movement from vehicles. It was the best training I have done and the most useful. On that note we did many Simunition [practice] runs with vehicle ambush scenarios. We found that without a doubt the single most important factor in surviving is getting out and away from the car. Getting behind it as though it was a concrete barrier and playing HEAT will get you killed.
Don't work for a company that doesn't vet its ICs. Check their creds, call the references, and put them through a ten day selection course. Just because a guy was a SEAL in Vietnam doesn't mean he maintained his skills. On that note the best shooter in my training class was Vietnam SEAL. Some of the best guys were 22 year old Rangers and the worst 38 year old SEALs. My point it's the individual that counts.
But we don't have time or money to bring a regular Army kid up to speed. You have to have the fundamental skill sets. We can't introduce you to live fire Australian peels. We should just review and coordinate verbal commands and simple sh*t.
Just because somebody is a good dude isn't good enough. If he can't shoot, think, and move - leave him home. Big boy rules.
If a guy doesn't work out in your crew but has talent and skill send him elsewhere, don't sh*tcan him. Personalities clash. Especially when you're living together 24/7 for six months. Eating every meal together all that. If I hear the same stupid story from a guy forty times? That's cool. It's the 41st that's gonna be drama. You guys know what I'm talking about.
The contractor community is a sewing circle for men. Remember the Dyncorp guy who shot the principal in Baghdad last winter? The story in its most recent telling over cheap Turkish beer involved a diplomatic cover up, a magazine change, and several deaths.
Throwing a flash-bang into the team leader's hootch at 3AM while drunk is not a good practical joke.
Remember how much money you're making. Nobody wants to clean the sh*tter on a Wednesday morning but keep in mind you're the highest paid janitor in the world that day.
Keep a sense of humor. Keep funny people around, they make sh*tty situations tolerable and are like Prozac when you need it.
Have thick skin. Your friends will ask for naked pictures of your wife on deployment and yes they may take them to the bathroom with them. Take criticism. If you suck at something ask for training.
Always remember that you were once a young dumb*ss E1. You made $450 a month and weren't allowed to fart without a permission chit ran up and down the chain of command. Keep this in mind when you're bitching because you're only making $17,000 a month when guys at the other company are getting $17,500. And when the bosses back in the states email you to have a clean shave? Do it. you never know when you're going to be on some stupid newspaper.
The soldiers around us are deployed for a year sometimes more. They make a fraction of the pay. And are ordered to do stupid, dangerous sh*t everyday. Keep that in mind when you are upset that instead of 60 days you're extended to 68.
And keep that in mind when dealing with soldiers. Treat them well, nobody else does.
Yes, we all work for ourselves at the end of the day. At the same end, never f**k over your company or teammates who have to stay behind and clean up your mess. Business OPSEC is one thing but always share your info on intel and tactics. We are all Americans and most of us will work together one time or another. Some of the "business secret" stuff is corny. If you hit an IED on ASR Jackson yesterday, e-mail your colleagues to stay away.
That's it off the top of my head. Stay Safe, - Ben---gas-prices meen the inevitable end of social-soicty in steps?survival and preparedness activities, I say, do not be overwhelmed by the enormity of that which you feel you need to do to be get yourself reasonably "prepared" or anywhere near as prepared as others that have been preparing for a long time. Make the decision to prepare for survival and methodically acquire the basic food, water and equipment you will need to handle any emergency situation, short or long-term.---At least our forefathers were insightful when they insisted that our (appropriately silver and gold-backed) monetary instruments be inscribed with the dictum, "In God We Trust". My one suggestion would be to go back to ---continued and is ongoing. Some of the best and brightest are wisely still bailing out of California in considerable numbers. OBTW, the latest outrage I heard was that the City of San Francisco has instituted socialist universal health care for every resident of the city, all to be funded magically by tax dollars. Papa Fidel would be proud of his understudies. The Liberal Nanny Staters that rule California have totally lost touch with reality.-----
I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any wild or domestic animal) from the field to the table. I bring with me a full set of cutlery tools, including saws,steels and several knives. I also carry a AR-15 w/8-20 round, loaded mags. A Glock 19 w/mags, and a Rem 870 tactically modified. I have a full set of ultralight camping gear including, freeze dried food,tent, sleeping bag,etc. My loyalties are to God, Country, and my brothers at arms.
--
repaired furniture
a little basic farm work(irrigation, pick rock)
assembled some field sprayers
signalman
roofing
painting
inventory control/purchasing
drafting
some hunting
a lot of fishing
a lot of target shooting
cashier(a lot)
lube and oil cars
janitor
built 40 wood tables for an assembly line
sorted recycled paper
stock shelves
gas station attendant
a little gardening(corn,peas,onions)
unarmed watch
----JWR Replies: I recommend that you form a survival retreat group. That is exactly what I did 25 years ago, when I was an Army ROTC cadet. Stock your retreat as best as you can, given your limited budget. Prioritize your purchasing. Water purification and food storage should be at the top of your list. Set group standards for communications gear and guns. For short range tactical coordination, I recommend the modestly priced MURS transceivers, since they use a little-used band. This is particularly important in the signal-dense northeastern United States, where using CB frequencies would be almost impossible WTSHTF. For advice on firearms selection, see my Survival Guns web page, and my novel "Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse".
Be very selective about who you bring into your group. Unlike building a group based on an extended family, you can be choosy. Be dispassionate in choosing new group members. Evaluate each candidate on their stability, motivation, and their mix of skills. Friendship is a great thing, but the guy or gal who is presently your dormitory buddy may not be your best choice for a survival group member. Look at their weight, health, and physical fitness. Consider their religious background. Are they moral and trustworthy? Are they intelligent and adaptable? Do they have valuable skills? Are they hard working or will they just be "talkers" or "strap hangers"? Avoid people with extremist views or anyone that suggests making any preparations that are illegal. Ask yourself the key question: Am I willing to trust my life to this individual? If any candidates don't pass muster, then keep looking.
In the long term, try to develop a retreat that is in a less densely populated region. When you graduate, direct your job search--assuming that you will be a reserve officer--to a region that is suitable for self-sufficient retreats. (For details, see my Retreat Areas web page and my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.) Odds are the group that you form in college will have a considerably different composition five or six years from now, once your friends change locales to pursue careers. In fact, depending on where you end up, you may be teamed with an entirely different group of people.
If you are destined to go on active duty, then tailor your "dream sheet" of preferred duty assignments (after OBC) to posts that are in the western U.S. (You didn't mention if you had been branch selected yet. That could make a big difference in the locale of your eventual posting.) I suggest that you consider posts like Umatilla Army Depot, Fort Carson, Rocky Mountain Arsenal, Tooele Army Depot, Dugway Proving Ground, Fort Lewis (possibly permanent party at Yakima Training Center), Fort Greely, Fort Wainwright, or perhaps Sierra Army Depot. Army PERSCOM branch managers are often willing to accommodate requests from junior officers that state a preference for posts that their peers would consider "backwater" assignments. (Let everyone else ask for a posting in Germany, Fort Meade, or Fort Devens.) Your branch manager may exclaim to his co-workers: "Holy cow! This lieutenant asked to be assigned to Umatilla Army Depot!"
-----end of 28goodb.txt notes, next starts 28goodc.txt my clips for print::::why we prepare:--
I consider preparing my Christian duty. I'm also stocking up lots of extra food, clothing, and so forth for charity, which is also my Christian duty.
--
Myself, I am what would be called a "millennialist" based on my beliefs from the Bible. The majority of mankind is stupid and sinful. Thousands of years and we are still doing the same mistakes over and over. I do not believe in any Gene Roddenberry vision where mankind, by its own efforts, rises from the ashes and evolves into a benevolent a Star Trek society. Nothing sort of divine intervention will save us in the long run from permanent self-destruction----Now aren't I a cheerful one to invite to a social gathering?;)
Just for the record, I'm not one of those nuts that believe in trying to hasten or encourage the Second coming The world is dong a fine job all by itself.
----nt "comfort level." The region might fare just fine in a 1930s-style depression, but in the event of something more severe--like a grid-down socioeconomic collapse, in my estimation there are about three or four times too many people than can be supported peaceably. (OBTW, if you'd like a glimpse of what the Willamette Valley might be like in a worst case economic collapse, read S.M. Stirling's science fiction novel "Dies The Fire".) Since you are concerned about a post-Peak Oil collapse, you might look particularly at the Grande Ronde Valley. Its population density is much more in line with sustainable self-sufficiency. And it gets a lot more sunshine than western Oregon, so it is more advantageous for photovoltaic (PV) alternative power systems. Just be sure to get a parcel that has plentiful water. And unless you have your heart set on Oregon, my personal recommendation for a much better Peak Oil retreat locale is the Palouse Hills region of north-central Idaho. It is a very good agricultural region with reliable rains, but it is far removed from the population centers of Portland and Seattle, as well as California's enormous Golden Horde. (Again, for details on the Palouse, see Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.)---advice about firefighting and resources to do so, he might want to look into joining his local Volunteer Fire Department (VFD).
Fire departments are the first ones (along with law enforcement) to be summoned to any natural or man-made disaster. For this reason, almost all fire departments (including the VFDs) prepare, trains themselves for disaster!---volunteer gig; my department pays a $400 a month pension when I'm 62 if I stay active in the company for 20 years. May not sound like much, but that ---different degrees of physical ability.
Another big plus is now that the Department of Homeland Security has implemented a standardized National Response Plan (NRP) and National Incident Management System (NIMS), there has been an impetus to standardize protocols between departments on things such as identification. In my company we receive county/state issued ID cards that have our name, photo, physical description and identify (in my case) the bearer as a Firefighter in the (name of town) Fire Department. On the back are the state seal and county seal. In the event of Bad Times, this ID can be a big help in getting around.
---Since I've been in my company, I've learned the following things that can help my family and I in an emergency:
I know what the local municipalities disaster plans are. I know what resources are available and I know how long they will last. In short, I know how long before the refugees become a hungry mob.
At no cost to me I got credentialed as a Certified First Responder.
I learned all the 'ins and outs' of the county's communication systems. I know where all the repeaters are, how much fuel they have and what frequencies all the local agencies use.
In the event of a smallpox or Avian Flu pandemic, I will be one of the first people vaccinated and will be assisting in the distribution of vaccine(killer-drugs)---I persuaded my company to avail itself of Federal programs that allow for first responder agencies to purchase (for a nominal fee) surplus military equipment. Our company has pallets of MREs (ostensibly to feed the crews during wildfires), we have trailer mounted military generators (for when power to the municipality goes out and we need to power the local emergency shelter) and are currently looking at several other useful 'dual-purpose' items.
Probably the best thing is that I have learned how preparation pays off. It is one thing to prepare for social collapse; there are no rehearsals or try-outs. Society collapses or it doesn't and you are prepared or you are not. ---of salt. In short, without electricity and reliable refrigeration, salt is the primary means of food preservation. If you live near the coast, you can gather salt from the sea, as well as those living near a salt spring, or dry salt bed, etc. Everyone else will have to stock it up or trade for it. Iodized salt is the preferable solution because it contains the small amount of iodine that the human body needs, the deficiency of which is called goiter, and can lead to birth defects such as mental retardation, thyroid disorders, and loss of IQ. If you live near the ocean, you can get the necessary iodine by adding seafood (including seaweed) to your diet.---use as back-up "get out of Dodge" vehicles. If things start looking dicey, you could leave your family at the motel and spend your nights there, for as long as you are in "wait and see" mode. (The period when presumably you determine if the situation has deteriorated to the point of necessitating totally "pulling the plug" on your paycheck and moving to your distant retreat for the long term. ) This will both save you the expense of buying or leasing a "forward location" cabin, and it will also eliminate most of the risk of burglary of the requisite supplies--which otherwise is a huge risk for an unattended cabin just 60 miles from a metropolitan area. ---Thursday February 15 2007
Active Preparedness Planning: Identifying and Mitigating Threats, by Paul C.
Here is my approach to actively preparing for disasters:
1. Identify potential threats.
2. Gather quantitative and qualitative information on impact.
3. Identify which threats are the most likely.
4. Identify critical needs for survival.
5. Estimate outage time that can be tolerated.
6. Compile resource requirements.
7. Identify alternatives.
1. Identify potential threats.
Threats will come from two main areas: man-made or natural. Man-made threats include labor strikes, riots, fires, chemical spills, terrorism, and vandals. A labor strike might mean that garbage collection or that public transportation stops. Urban riots have hit cities like Los Angeles, Seattle, Miami, and Cleveland in recent years. Wildfires are the number one disaster threat in much of the south. Industrial areas have large amounts of chemicals hauled in and out by the trainload, these tracks run the length and width of the nation. Terrorism might have a direct or in-direct impact upon you. Finally vandals might come upon your second home and destroy it and its contents.---Conclusion
It's been said that if you don't focus on the target you'll miss it every time. This brief primer isn't meant to cover all aspects of disaster survival but it is meant to get you to start thinking in a focused manner on your plans. Over time things change and both the primary and secondary plans to be reviewed to ensure that they are current. A key point becomes when to actually activate the plans and it's often better to error your judgment---where the goods they carry need to go. Rail lines, generally, do not go through the best parts of towns. If someone bugging-out has to traverse a city to get to his or her retreat, they will be exposing themselves to unnecessary risks in those parts of town.
If it sounds like I do not think using the rails for a travel route is a good idea, you would be correct. I have spent considerable time driving on the rails and have encountered these problems first hand. The rails are not a---Evasion. If there's a chance of running into goblins in the woods, navigation becomes more complicated. Moving undetected can be a challenge but can be done. Motion attracts an enemy's eye more than camouflage can conceal you from him. For example, most deer and squirrels you probably see in the woods are noticed because of a twitch of the ear or a flick of the tail that alerts you to their presence. They are naturally hard to see, but the slightest movement can give them away. Move slowly, stop and look. Patience is a virtue that can save your skin.
Noise can also compromise your location. Be aware of noise and disturbing foliage and animals (birds or deer/elk). Masking your sounds by traveling in damp or windy weather may help.
When crossing "lines of communication" such as rivers or roads, cross at areas with limited visibility such as bends or shaded areas. Don't follow trails or "lines of communication" or leave tracks on or near them. Avoid open areas where you can be seen from far away. This will reduce your chance of being seen, but will slow you down considerably! Instead of trail hiking at 1.5 to 3 mph, you might be lucky to go a quarter mile an hour in some terrain if you have to do it quietly and without being seen. Off road travel will also require much more effort and most likely be noisier. Plan for this.
Also consider what time of day you will be starting and stopping your movement. To avoid being seen by Night Vision Devices (NVDs), dawn and dusk can provide a light condition that is too dark to be easily seen with the naked eye, yet too light for NVDs to work well. Air Force Pamphlet 64-5 Aircrew Survival is a great resource that gives an overview of evading capture while traveling in a hostile environment.
Conceal your direction of travel in case you are captured (no sense in showing the bad guys where you were going). This includes not writing down headings or making markings on a map, and if you are using a military-type lensatic compass that locks the compass dial when it is closed, turn the compass off course before locking the dial so that your last heading is not revealed. To mark a map temporarily, use sticks, pine needles or string to show lines of position or course direction.
This overview is just a brief and limited summary of things to consider if you need to travel to survive. I hope it has provided food for thought and grounds for further research (FFTAGFFR). I also hope that I've included some tips that can keep you safe. Be Prepared, - GlobalScout----Thursday January 11 2007
Ten Things That Will Get You Killed While Bugging In, by Paul C.
"Bugging in" is the term used for staying at home while waiting for an event to pass you by. [As opposed to "bugging out"--fleeing to a lightly populated region.] Even the largest civil events of the last one hundred years haven't set society off here in the United States of its normal course for more than two weeks. Double that for a month and you'll survive, or out survive, any---After whatever event that has set society on its end has struck the 99 out of one hundred people that haven't prepared for survival are going to be out looking for supplies. Those people will have some sort of firearm likely and as hunger, dehydration, and panic set in they will become more and more willing to use violence as a means to secure what they want from you. I recommend keeping the lowest possible profile possible as stealth is one of the best weapons available.
1. Starvation.
You need to have enough food on your shelves for at least a month. Stock up on military MREs, canned soups, and canned meats. Foods that do not require---2. Dehydration.
In some locations around the United States there is almost a constant supply of rain or running water. Under some conditions rain can become contaminated but normally within a week any chemical, biological, or nuclear pollution will have fallen out of the sky. Ground water supplies can become infected for much longer. Wells and pumps should have their outputs filtered. Have a method of gathering rain water if for use only in sanitation. I recommend having enough cases of bottled water for a month. Rationing food is much easier when there is extra water. Water is much cheaper to keep in quantities, a case of 24 liters of water should provide three days of drinking water and costs about $4. Like your food stores these should be rotated into your normal drinking water. Realize that some food containers will rot out fairly quickly – use clean soda bottles rather then milk containers if you're storing water on the cheap.
3. Exposure to Extreme Weather.
The weather is something that continues even when we're having problems. Imagine your home without the normal supply of electrical and natural gas energy during the worse spell of weather a typical winter can throw at you. Without a source of energy your home will do little more than supply shelter from the wind and rain or snow. Propane heaters can provide clean burning heat but like any source of combustion they require a supply of fresh air less they burn up all the oxygen in the room. Do not burn charcoal indoors as it not only burns up the oxygen it gives off deadly carbon monoxide. Have plenty of warm clothing available for use indoors and out. Synthetic materials that retain some warming ability even when wet are important. Keep your feet, hands, head and neck warm as they are where most heat is lost from. Mittens are far better at keeping hands warm then gloves. A tiny hole can allow the use of the trigger finger.
4. Sanitation.
Without flushing water toilets will not function. Even low flow toilets require a bit more than a gallon to flush. If the event is going to be a normal short "week or so" civil outage you can manually load the toilet tank with a bucket of water. Liquid waste can be gathered during the day and poured discretely at night into a location distant from any natural source of water you might be gathering. Solid waste can be put into plastic bags which can be sealed and placed into trash cans.
5. Light.
If the source of electricity has been cut off using a flashlight or lantern will draw people like bugs to a street light. People have a natural fear of the dark and there's nothing like being the only source of light for blocks to draw an unwelcome crowd. If you do use lights after dark use them as little as possible. Red filters will help keep the use of light discrete. Draw your shades or blinds like normal and then nail blankets, cardboard, or better yet, pre-prepared plywood over the insides. This effort will keep in heat, hold down the noise, block light, and add some protection against looters or attackers.
6. Smoke.
Smoke can be seen for a great distance as can the smell of it or cooking food. Sit outside one summer evening with a light breeze and you'll smell cooking going on from a hundred yards away. Burning trash can raise a great deal of smoke and doesn't make sense initially unless your neighbors are also doing it. If you have to burn trash gather several days worth together and burn it in a trash can with ventilation holes in the bottom. This will help the fire burn hotter and emit less smoke. Extinguish the fire after use rather then letting it linger. Cigarette smoke can also be smelled from a great distance away.
7. Noise.
It is amazing how far normal conversation or household noise can travel at night in a silent city. Those who have been hunting in the early hours know how far sound travels, you can hear a noisy hunting party clear across a---8. Activity.
If you're trying to remain hidden in plain sight motion will certainly give you away. Chores that require you to leave the house should be done only after dark. Wear dark clothing or better camouflage that matches your environment. Resting during the day and patrolling or gathering after dark maintains the lowest profile. If you do have to move about during the day stay off of trails, streets, and ridge lines where you're likely to be seen first. The use of passive night vision goggles can help greatly when moving around after dark. If the ground is covered with freshly fallen snow limit your upsetting of the blanket until more is falling or the winds pick up to cover your tracks back to your place.
9. Nuclear, Biological, Chemical Weapons.
Whether they are released intentionally or accidentally they can kill you just as dead, just as fast. Nuclear weapons kill by blast and radiation. Dirt is your friend with both forms of energy. Ideally being shielded by massive quantities of dirt is the best protection. Living on the far side of a mountain or having a basement shelter where you can keep below the initial blast of radiation. Fallout is radioactive matter in the dust and debris that follows a blast. Most fallout settles within hours, within days it is almost completely gone. Weather can help with rainfall and high winds. The longer you can stay sheltered the lower your chance of getting radiation sickness is. Filtering the air within your shelter can be done with gas masks. You should become familiar with the fit and feel of a mask prior to needing one. Protecting against some chemical agents is similar to nuclear fallout. Those chemicals that are dust like can be filtered with ease, gas-like agents will dissipate with time and wind. Oily chemicals can spread with contact with contaminated surfaces. Wearing disposable chemical resistant coveralls, gloves, and over-boots can keep contaminates outside when coming back indoors. Biological agents are greatly affected by the weather and can be rendered harmless by sun, rain, cold, and heat. Avoiding them is a matter of keeping buttoned up for a few days or possibly weeks.
10. Communications
It is only natural to desire to communicate with outside loved ones. This will normally require the use of a amateur "ham" radio, CB, or FRS radio. Realize that the ability to track the source of communications isn't that difficult. Amateur radio clubs do "fox hunts" to practice finding hidden transmitters. If you do use radio communications keep them short and cryptic if the event becomes really serious and to the point where people are getting desperate. One time pads can be used – both parties have a look-up table to decode prearranged phrases. These are changed each patrol. Have a wideband scanner receiver so that you can listen for the authorities or even on other [survival] group's communications. - Paul C.---Saturday December 30 2006
Letter Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales
Mr. Rawles,
If one takes the Rawles Ranch criteria for minimum safe distance from large metropolitan areas - 400 miles from an area of 1 million or more, then one has eliminated all of the west except Montana north of Helena and North Dakota west of Bismarck (With a small piece of South Dakota northwest of Pierre too). Indeed, all of Idaho (the state mentioned in your novel-----------While a safe distance criteria is an important consideration, living closer to cities (but off of major lines of drift) may be more important to most of your readers in the western USA. Long term, the agricultural climate and radiological hazards may be very important as well. However, the more I read from your blog, as well as "classical" sources like Mel Tappan, Robert Heinlein, and David Brin, leads me to conclude that living in or near a small community of like minded, prepared people may be the most important criteria of all. - Sun Dog
JWR Replies: The location of the Rawles Ranch--400+ miles from the nearest major metro area--was an admittedly ultraconservative selection. We like our elbow room and we prefer to have more deer and elk than people for neighbors. In conversations with my consulting clients, I often cite 200 miles as a typical "safe distance" figure, and 300+ miles as the ideal. I suppose that I would only feel nervous within a 150 mile radius. It is interesting that you mention Ciudad Juarez. That is one of the population centers that is shown as a "cross border" threat in one of the maps in my recently released non-fiction book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.--Letter Re: Manpower Requirements for Defending a Retreat in a Worst Case, and the Jealous Neighbor Factor
James:
The "Mr. and Mrs. Oscar" profile was most interesting. For a lot of us, probably the epitome of "If I had the money, my retreat would be..." On the downside, I would be concerned with:
1. The problem of defending/patrolling the property. A quarter section translates to a full mile of frontier. In a full SHTF situation, I'd want a trustworthy, commo equipped, well-armed loyal soul every 100 yards or so. If those folks put in 12 hour shifts, you'd need about 35 hands for perimeter security. That doesn't take into account the roving patrols on the interior of the compound, nor the rapid response fire team(s).
2. The "jealous neighbor" factor. Human nature being what it is, you can bet that there's a few locals who figure that when the balloon goes up, "Those rich people with that big house should have grub to spare."
3. Every fella who delivers gas, propane and diesel knows all the details of his route. People talk.
4. With all those Class 2 weapons, I'd be concerned about being a bit too high on the radar screen.
5. The problem with "Meeting others of our ilk." is widespread. I wish I had an answer.
All in all, a most interesting read. - Hawgtax
JWR Replies: The level of security that you describe (35 people!) would only be required if you had a retreat that was close to a city or right on a line of drift and it was an absolute worst case scenario. I think that even in the midst of TEOTWAWKI, having just one or two LP/OPs manned 24/7 and supplemented with intrusion detection sensors (such as a Dakota Alert passive IR system) and some trip flares would be provide sufficient warning to quickly man a defense. Once it is clear to the bad guys that you are on your guard and well armed.(just one burst of semi-auto high power rifle fire would probably be good clue) then looters will go find an softer and more inattentive target elsewhere. ---starvation, gunshot, etc. Any condition less than a true TEOTWAWKI will have had services restored to the level of existing with unpleasant difficulty at least within a few months.
2. Bug out just before TEOTWAWKI: If you haven't prepared a suitable place with lots of supplies stored or fleeing with a convoy of semi's filled with supplies. Then you will become either a refugee or looter. Neither status will be welcome in rural America.
3. Urban residents can prepare for limited disasters or a situation where bugging out will be for a limited time where the government will continue to function.
Semi-rural and rural families have the possibility of long term survival with adequate preparedness.
1. Everything starts with planning. The first of every year should be list of what is needed for survival. If you're just starting. Then a list for three to six months is a good starting place. After that long term projects and items are included in subsequent lists. Every year I make a list of at least twenty-five goals in the area of survival to accomplish. Every hour of actual preparedness should be directly related to an equal time in study and planning. A good survival library is a must.
2. Study and research into the field of Survival will become your second job. This is serious study and not just reading internet blogs. Several months ago I was annoyed by a lady that was asking questions on an internet site that revealed that she had only an elementary school level of knowledge of first aid and was totally clueless about nuclear fallout. Yet she had found time to post over 850 entries over the last six months, but not had bothered to do even the most basic reading.
3. Your bug out bag should be in your car and contain what is needed to get home if the roads are gridlocked and you have to walk. Your home should be your survival outpost. The last thing you should become is a fleeing refugee being herded into a government refugee camp.
4. Develop an operation plan that details what each family member is expected for them to do during the first 72 hours of a situation. Different tasks for different situations. This will keep a focus on accomplishing necessary tasks that will make the difference between a family's survival or succumbing to the disaster.
5. Prepare for those that are welcome to hunker-down with you. This is the worse part; you must give a warning in uncompromising language that others must come prepared to your gate. Recently my best friend from childhood observe red one of my many storage shelves and exclaimed, "Why should I prepare, I'm coming to stay with you if anything happens". Sadly I had to inform him if he showed at the gate with nothing but his appetite, he would be turned away. He asked if our lifelong friendship didn't mean anything. I simply replied, "Which one of my children goes hungry, so that I can feed you?"
6. Do include those that you know well that are willing to make the commitment to actively contribute and not be a burden to your family's survival. Two other families will join us in their campers and they have already stored their year's supply of dehydrated food in our basement. Besides, you will always need the additional firepower in an unpleasant situation.
Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.----Tuesday December 26 2006
Two Letters Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales?
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Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.----Tuesday December 26 2006
Two Letters Re: Minimum Safe Distance From The Big City for Retreat Locales?
---pickings. There's a segment of our society that projects the belief that being strong causes one to become a target. This is the same mentality that won't touch firearms to avoid "escalating the violence." However, historically, a defended stronghold of unknown content and capabilities is the last place an unorganized mob will approach. Most criminals diverted by firearms are not actually shot; a simple discharge is sufficient. The attacker has to weigh risk of death vs chance of food/loot. Does the attacker know you have stockpiles of gear and food? Or are you likely just a guy in a cabin with a sleeping bag and a rifle? One might be worth dying for, the other is not, and the odds are a gamble at best.
There's also the consideration of whether or not one is a lone household, or has neighbors for mutual defense. It doesn't take much crossfire to make a ---some looters. Take a map of the United States and schoolboy's drawing compass and start drawing 300 mile radius circles around any city of 800,000 or more, you will soon see that anywhere east of the Missouri River there will little more than multiple overlapping circles. If my prediction is right, then this does not bode well for easterners. Everyone has their own "comfort zone,"---learn how to grow food in time (or barter stored wealth) but no matter how good you are, sooner or later you'll take casualties if you are in the [path of the] "looter flow."
The question I am wrestling with, is -- if you can't move full time to your retreat, what is the minimum distance you can afford to be from a major metro area, say 1 million people?
Obviously the further away the better for safety -- but you also want to be as close as possible as well:
You want to be close enough that you could get to it bugging out on foot, in a worst case scenario.---You could even get creative with building below grade, camouflage, etc., etc. to be even lower profile. Also if you have a well trained team with sufficient numbers, and your perimeter security is very tight, you might want to chance being closer.
What else could you do to lower the distance needed? Bottom line - how close is no good---One thing that you could do to to reduce the distance required is to studiously avoid natural lines of drift. (Such as major highways, river valleys, railroad tracks, and coastal liitorals.) There are potential retreat locales perhaps just 75 miles from major cities that might be bypassed because they are on disadvantageous terrain. (Think in terms of hilly country with just a few small access roads, islands, properties that are on the far side of natural obstacles such as rivers, or that are in large river delta regions.) Take a few weekend drives in the rural areas near where you live. Do some careful map study and then do some driving to meticulously search for the hard-to-access areas. By concentrating on such bypassed areas, you will be off the path of more than 90% of potential looters. But even still, anywhere less than 200 miles from major metropolitan areas will be a gamble, in my estimation.---JWR Replies: The only people that have effective radio direction finding ("DF") equipment and the requisite expertise to operate it are A.) The NSA and a few other government agencies such as the FCC--mainly for tracking down unlicensed pirate stations, and B.) ham radio operators themselves, who practice playing "fox and hound". (Here is a sample of a site dedicated to the latter --quite a sport.) Hams tend to be very law-abiding folks. I can't imagine many of them going renegade and turning into looters. However, I can foresee many looter gangs showing rudimentary SIGINT skills and using portable public service band ("police") scanners. So it is wise to use low power and directional antennas. Never mention surnames, locationu, lat/long, map coordinates, or street addresses "in the clear." In my estimation, it is not likely that looter gangs would be sufficiently sophisticated to use DF gear. But never take anything for granted. It is conceivable that someone that worked in the SIGINT community could sell their services to a large looter gang, in a "slow slide" situation. Be prudent and take the proper COMSEC measures. If and when the Schumer hits the fan, you should construct your own brevity codes and change your call signs and frequencies frequently.---Monday December 18 2006
Letter Re: America's Interstate Highway and Freeway System in Decline---Wednesday November 29 2006
Letter Re: Tactical Vests as Wearable Mini Bug Out Bags---Do Your Prior Planning
If you haven't made a list of supplies – and this should be a total list of supplies, not just the ones you still need – get one made, copy one from the Internet or use one from FEMA or the Red Cross. Break it into manageable sections or categories. I use "kits" for my lists. There's a "Water Kit" that lists all things pertaining to water; canteens, holders, cups, filters, spares, etc. There's a Food Kit, Shelter Kit, Commo Kit, Light Kit, Knife Kit, Gun Kit, and the always needed Miscellaneous Kit. My Kits lists go on for over 20 pages, but when I have all of that equipment together and ready to go then I'll know I'm almost prepared. Make you a list and make it complete.---In Conclusion
Get prepared – that is, make your lists, do your inventories, and know ahead of time what you need. Stay alert for sales and opportunities to purchase at reduced prices. And buy what you can when you can, save for the things you need, and no matter what you're still missing when TSHTF you'll be far better off than if you did nothing.
Don't depend on Uncle Sam – he cannot and will not do it all. Don't depend on friends and family – they all have their own to take care of. Stock up for yourself and be ready to share with those less fortunate and in need.---gas rated respirators and said, here, take these, my full face mask is upstairs. You should have seen the stunned looks! They could not believe that I just walked into the garage and produced personal protective gear for them in under 10 seconds. I chose not to share with them the extent of my ability to deal with a variety of other situations. As it turned out, my friends stayed over and the wives sheltered in place as they were just 2/10 mile ---could be turned upside-down, imagine how EMP could block all roads with dead cars). We all have our individual ideas of what to carry but to view the contents of ultralight hikers packs, try these links:Hikelight gear listBackpacking.netUIltralighSome ideas about lightweight foods to carry
The CRKT M16 Special Forces "Big Dog" knifeThe Glock 30 (only 680 grams empty.)"Buff" headgearMerino "Smartwool" productsA great source for lihtweight and technical fabricsWell made, inexpensive shellsExpensive but well built gearHudson TrailCampmor
Lightweight shoes (the best online shoe store, hands down!):Tilley hats
Regarding lightweight body armor, shop carefully
I think that the links above pretty much cover everything I mentioned in my article but you'll find more information than you could ever get through by Googling "ultralight hiking". Save your back and travel fast and light! Best Regards, - Jim K.---started reading about "ultralight" hiking. Everything you carry is weighed and the goal is keep your entire pack under 20 pounds. ------The average pair of "waffle stomper" style boots weigh in at about four pounds, while the ankle-high running shoes that I wear are less than 2 pounds. For every mile you walk in heavy boots, you're lifting about a ton of weight (literally, 2000 pounds) more than you'd be hoisting in lighter shoes, and it all adds up! A heavy-duty combat style backpack can weigh 7 pounds empty, while the pack I carry is less than a pound. By the way, if you want to travel light, you'll need to become familiar with a fabric called "silnylon" which is nylon treated with silicon (waterproof and featherweight). It's a miracle to camp with but be *very* careful with flame (don't get it near the stuff). Rather than travel with a 10 pound tent in your pack, try a silnylon tarp/poncho overhead and a bivy sack (which is a waterproof cover for your sleeping bag) which, combined, weigh well less than a pound. Some budget ultralight hikers use a 6'x8' sheet of Tyvek as a ground cloth or tarp (weighs next to nothing). You get the idea?
Rather than invest in a Camelback-type rig for carrying water, I carry 2 liter soda bottles (which are free, weigh nothing and don't develop that "funky" taste that the bladders get after a while). We weighed the canteen that one of the guys was carrying and it was a couple of pounds, empty! In lieu of a stove, the same guy carried a 4 pound ax (to gather "firewood"), while I carried a "Coke can" stove ( http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html ) that, along with it's fuel (denatured alcohol) weighs less than 3 ounces! The poor guy was hungry (no dinner the night before) and it took him almost an hour to gather his wood, split it and get a good fire going before he could start breakfast. I think it goes without saying that if we'd been "bugging out", the time taken and the tell-tale smoke from the fire would've been unacceptable. That's another aspect of ultralight hiking that works for survivalists, "leave no trace of your visit" to give away your position or make it easy to be tracked.
We felt it prudent to leave our rifles at home and stick with concealed carry (people get spooked seeing armed men marching in the woods out of hunting season). Keeping with the light BOB idea, I had my Glock 30 along with 2-10 round magazines (the idea is to make every shot count, if need be, and to travel so quietly as to be unseen and untargeted) and my favorite knife for this kind of hike, a CRKT M16- which is a skeletonized folder that thinks it's a fixed blade knife (even has a true hilt) and weighs in at 5.6 ounces. True to the intent of this trip, I also wore my IIA [body armor] vest, being sure to wear a synthetic material tee-shirt under it. When you hike for any distance, the last material you'll want against your skin is cotton, which will absorb sweat and make you miserable no matter if the weather is hot or cold. Though the hike was in the Summer in Vermont, we were all carrying everything we'd need, even in the dead of Winter. Clothing-wise, I carry synthetic underwear- long and short, Merino wool shirt and pants (which are convertible to shorts), a synthetic fleece jacket, a light insulated parka, and breathable rain gear. I also carry waterproof gaiters, vapor barrier socks, several pairs of technical, Merino wool socks, one pair saved for use only when sleeping (and therefore, always dry, a real treat after a day of hiking) and two pairs of gloves (one fits over the other) It pays to have either a synthetic balaclava or a "Buff" (a multipurpose head/neck wrap) along and I always carry my Tilley's hat for shade, the only cotton piece in my kit. For light, I stick to tiny LEDs as a normal flashlight with 2 D cells weighs in at half a pound. I also try to utilize dried and freeze dried foods as much as possible to lighten the load.
The trick is to constantly look for places where you can cut weight. For example, most people don't really need a full length pad to sleep on, so you trim the pad to 3/4 and you save a few ounces. You wear light layers rather than carry an entire wardrobe for each season. There are people who even go so far as to cut off any labels or trim that they deem unnecessary, trying to pare down another ounce. You also want to try to carry things that are "multi-purposed" so that you carry fewer items. Some things, like a one ounce mosquito head net, are worth their weight in gold and you'd be foolish to travel the back country without them. By the end of the second day of this trip, these ideas were starting to make sense to my fellow hikers. The ax carrier was starting to understand that twigs made more sense than logs for the fires he was making and all of them were cursing the weight (and unneeded items) they were carrying. They were converts by the time we got home again and each of them has completely reworked their BOB, thanks to the on the ground lessons we all learned. Even if the idea of an ultralight BOB doesn't appeal to you, you owe it to yourself (and those who depend on you) to give your own BOB a "real world" trial, to see if it lives up to your needs and is actually as "haul-able" as you think it is.- Hawaiian K.----recycling company in Apex, NC, several miles to the east near Raleigh, NC. Something over 16,000 residents of Apex have been urged to evacuate so far as a large plume of a chlorine-like smelling substance moves through the area.
All local, state and federal agencies have been called in to assess and 300 firefighters so are are waiting until daylight (7am-ish) to go in assess and---was first reported 10pm (Eastern time) last night. Several police and one firefighter are being treated for inhalation problems Currently there is an adjacent petroleum co. next door where four tanks have also caught fire and exploded, exacerbating the situation...all schools in the apex area have been---If you follow local links (wral.com) and (newsobserver.com) you may get some updates on how this thing develops and is resolved...the large plume of ---The diesel fuel contaminated hoses will "swell up like toady-frog", then burst. Resist the urge to drive a diesel with a fuel leak - have the leak repaired. The first thing I do to a diesel with an unverifiable service history is replace the fuel filter, then coolant and coolant hoses. Once you acquire the vehicle of your choice, keep a spare starter, glow plug relay and alternator in "the recently mentioned on the blog" homemade Faraday cage - a used/discarded microwave oven(!) - and keep it in the back of the truck in a Rubbermaid Action Packer.---down (heat and humidity were horrible) I watched a character approach – he was intently looking into each vehicle he passed. Once he reached my truck he approached the driver's side and wanted to buy gas that I was carrying (having it in the open was a mistake). I explained that it was not for sale – I would need it when I got home. Then he became very belligerent and indicated that he was going to take it to get to New Orleans. It became clear that the situation was critical, some with well practiced motion I introduced him to the 1911, at which point he wisely elected to be somewhere else. I realized that safety was off and I had taken up slack on on the trigger – I had committed to use deadly force in a split second, right or wrong. The event did diffuse the situation immediately and efficiently. It took 12 + hours to traverse less than 30 miles in the truck. My partner made the trip by hiking and catching a ride in less than 4 hours.
Over the period of the next few days the world took on a totally different aspect. We were under martial law – no firearms, ammunition,or alcohol and a sunset to sunrise curfew. As both our businesses were firearms related there was the need for a degree of security around the clock. The local law enforcement was stretched so thin as to be of no response value. As we are just north of the Mississippi/Louisiana border, the community grew from 12,000 to around 51,000 in a few days. Having prepared (largely in part to your novel "Patriots") we were able to meet those whom chose not to observe the curfew, and probe the "edges", in a decisive manner. Generators helped light one of the businesses, but they are very noisy, so we had to depend on the dogs. In the other we chose to be completely dark, and depend on the dogs for early warning.
We learned that a schedule for sleep, chores, eating, and duty helped offset the elevated "wired" condition. In the planning I chose a home with a "artesian" free flowing well (~ 3-5 psi) , however without power for wells many folks uncapped free flowing wells in the area stopping the flow due to the relieved pressure points. Some municipal water was available on a limited basis. Water quality was a concern. With temperatures in the mid to high nineties and humidity there as well water for animals and electrolytes for people were hugely importantly (those containing sugar were not as effective, and seemed to be harmful).
We came through fine, and the lessons learned have been incorporated. Electricity took 17 days to [be restored to] my home and phone service [restoration] 10 weeks. No local government help was in evidence for five days. Almost all of the supplies and relief in the first few days came through the local churches (they were and still are the most effective distribution system). During events like these dealing with otherwise good people has severely changed our approach to people and denial. Some where near 80% of the people in the area are still not making any preparations against significant events. The mental toll it has taken on the community is still visible today.
Lessons Learned:
1. Carry what you need but keep as much out of sight as possible
2. Expect to have to dissuade those whom feel entitled to your supplies
3. The aspect of deadly force is an effective deterrent – be prepared to use it or abandon your provisions
4. Know and pay attention to your early warning systems – animal or electronic
5. Big dogs, and alert dogs are a great help
6. Practice, shoot, practice, plan, practice
The bottom line is, that in any event, there are unforeseen consequences. The time that you set down with your group and define what, when, and where will be of paramount value. Understand that some of the group may not make it (some of ours was trapped far away) the rest can and will have the resources available, and take up the slack, until such a time that all can join up. I do laugh easier, shoot more and plan more effectively now. Remember: technology may help but your brain will save your life!---reminder on several lessons that are so easy to let slide.
1) If your stuff is organized it's a lot faster and easier. If it's a jumble, it's time consuming nightmare. It took very little time when my stuff was well-packed and labeled, but it seemed to take forever when I had to organize and move at the same time. Keep it all organized in plastic tubs (not cardboard boxes that fold in the rain) and clearly labeled to avoid confusion. Don't raid your BOB for one item, and leave it unpacked, etc.,-----2) Don't move too much stuff! The preparedness mindset can also be a pack rat mentality, and we definitely had too much stuff to move. Twice as much stuff t--3) If your equipment is well-maintained you might be okay. If not, Murphy's Law will bite with a vengeance.---4) If your fitness is not up, you will suffer. I'm in pretty good shape, running 20+ miles per week, but moving several tons of stuff, and all the stress of moving, still wiped me out by the end of the day. If you aren't on a physical fitness program, it will be a short, sharp shock to find out how badly our sedentary lives prepare us for hard physical work. Even just walking briskly for a half hour a day is a good start.
5) Keep ALL of your body maintained - moving, or bugging out, is not the time for an illness, a toothache, or a backache. Don't let yourself get in a sleep deficit, eat your veggies, see the dentist every six months, and get proactive on any physical weaknesses. Keep your body ahead of the curve on maintenance.
I have had some minor back problems in the past, so I got on my back maintenance exercises and pulled through with only minor soreness.
These two books are absolutely excellent to get fast results correcting the root causes - and avoid wasting time and money with doctors that only treat symptoms:
Treat Your Own Back
The Back Power Program
My bet is a lot of older folks who try to bug out will also put their back out, and really be in serious trouble.
6) Get strong mentally. Expect screw-ups and prepare mentally to deal with them. About half of the various services and contractors we arranged with, showed up late and/or didn't do everything they were supposed to do.
So don't plan or relying on anyone but yourself to get it done right, and make a conscious choice that you will face the inevitable stresses with a can-do attitude - even better, with good humor. Monitor your own behavior and discipline yourself to make the right choices. This is something we can all practice every day.
7) Build slack time into the plan. Between too much stuff, and truck repair problems, and contractor screw ups, my original idea of how long it "should" take was a fantasy. Think how long it "should" take, double it for a more realistic estimate, and then plan around a worst case of doubling the time again.8) Practice by taking a camping or backpacking trip. You'll find out your strength and weaknesses, and get a chance to correct before you have to do it for real.Hope it helps, - OSOM---Can't leave these on a computer since retrieval without electricity would be impossible.
I believe the more probable catastrophe will be an economic one, possibly related to terrorist activities and have planned accordingly. I have my small retreat, eight acres in the North Georgia mountains, four acres in woods, the---water. I figure that if times get truly bad I can expect family nearby (as many as 15) to want to come stay with me. I cannot refuse them and am planning accordingly. I have drafted letters and e-mails to be sent last minute telling them what to expect. I tell them if they plan to come to proceed in the following manner:
1- Acquire all available cash, (savings, checking, stashed, mad money, etc)
2- Fill up one vehicle with gas. (Purchase, empty other car, lawnmower, etc)
3-Refill as much prescription drugs as they can afford, even using credit cards. Don't worry about insurance, just pay the price.
4- Leaving just enough room for people, pack the car in this order of value:
a-Non perishable foods, spices, etc.
b-Medicines and medical devices
c-Arms and ammo, knives, axes, maintenance items,
d-Clothes, heavy duty everyday wearable, don't forget out
of season clothes
e- Cooking and preserving items, dishes, pots, supplies
f-Any fuels and oils, kerosene, motor oil, charcoal. propane
g-Tools, battery operated items (radios)
h- Mattress (not box springs), linens, towels, etc.
i-Personal items, brushes, books, razor,
5- Have some means of communication, cell phone, C.B. or walkie-talkie for on the road.
Bottom line is: DON'T ARRIVE EMPTY HANDED. They won't be turned away, but let them know something is expected.
I have rated each person as to capability to work and defend the homestead and expect each to do a fair share of any duty assigned. Some will be able to guard homestead, some would be of little use in that capacity, at least at first. Proper motivation and training can happen along the way.
One item that I have thought of that may not occur to others preparing is [purchasing a pair of ] magnetic [vehicle door] signs. I have several of these made up for my vehicle. One says simply--- SOIL SURVEY. I have put this on the side of my truck while out scouting and placing caches and no one questions me walking about with notepad or digging tool. Best not to be seen, but sometimes hiding in plain sight is a good alternative. Other signs could include:
EMERGENCY TRANSPORT MAINTENANCE
GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
SURVEY
MAPPING DEPARTMENT
ACCIDENT INVESTIGATION
FORESTRY INSPECTION
EMVIRONMENTAL IMPACT
None of these are meant to infer any government or official capacity and if questioned, I intend to state that I am an independent contractor.The proper wording might even come in handy in a bug-out situation getting past a rookie roadblock operation.
Good luck and continued success with your endeavors. - PeacePipe in North Georgia
JWR Replies: Needless to say, folks, but never attempt to impersonate a government agent. The "private contractor" idea might work, especially if it is backed up with some business cards with your name the same job title. But honesty is the best policy. If your retreat is across state lines, then get your next driver's license and vehicle registration in the state where you have your retreat property. There is no more compelling story--especially if it is substantiated by a state-issued driver's license--than a truthful one: that you just want to get home. When the Schumer hits the fan, you will be ---Tuesday August 1 2006
Letter Re: Push or Pull Carts For All-Terrain Hauling
James:
Regarding Redmist's suggestion to use closed-cell polyurethane foam tires, those tires add a bit of weight, and often you are trying to keep the weight down on the load, Slime® sealant is cheap light weight insurance inside your tires, just ask any hardcore ATV rider and they will tell you so.
I happen to be in the process of making a hand cart for hauling waterfowl decoys into fields where taking a truck is not allowed, a axle, hubs, wheels and tires from a completely trashed ATV, two pillow block bearings and some serious thought and welding and I'll be in business for the next season. - --Saturday July 22 2006
Letter Re: Motorcycle Trails as Cross-Country Bug Out Routes
Hi Jim,
Reading the recent posts on escape routes and thought I'd send along this link about the Trans-America Trail. I haven't ridden dirt bikes since I was a teenager, and I've never been on this trail, but supposedly you can go da*n near all the way across the country on this thing. - G.
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Wednesday July 19 2006
Letter Re: Railroads Tracks and Right of Ways as Bug-Out Routes
Also to be considered for bug out routes are utility/power line right of ways/easements, fire lanes, biking trails, running trails, ATV trails, and snow mobile trails. Local groups for such recreational trails often give away free maps paid for by advertising. As for high voltage power lines, look up and around as you drive around. Note that most of these trails have lock-offs for regular vehicles, usually using standard padlocks. Note for most, there must be access for emergency vehicles so there is a way in. One might remember the scene in the movie Terminator 2 as Arnold was driving along the access trail along the top of the drainage system. You might consider waterways as well, but remember they tend to flow toward the Ocean and toward population, eventually. There is no substitute for a good map.--- - Rourke
JWR Replies: Use extreme caution if you ever have to use a railroad right-of-way in the event of an emergency. Many lives have been lost because someone thought that they were on "inactive" tracks. Readers might consider joining a legitimate "speeder" (powered railcar) club affiliated with the North American Railcar Operators Association (NARCOA), to gain both practical My father always referred to his bolt cutters as "The universal key." While I do not condone trespassing, vandalism, or theft, I think that it is important that every family own a pair of good quality bolt cutters, preferably 36" length, such as those made by Woodings-Verona Tool Works. They are an ---ame service life. Also keep in mind that many tools from China (such as the "Westward" brand marketed by W.W. Grainger) are usually the product of the laogai ("reform through labor") prison factory system. (Which confines political prisoners.) So if at all possible, buy American, or at least from another free country. (Such as the Japanese HIT brand.)---however, I think there are still a lot of tracks out there. Some I know have been removed but have been turned into hiking trails and such. http://trains.rockycrater.org/pfmsig/atlas.php Hope this is useful. - Larry i ---Tuesday July 4 2006
Letter Re: Preparedness Lessons Learned from The K.T. Ordnance BATFE Raid
Jim,
I thought I would give you an up-date on my raid. First, I'm not in jail, nor have I been charged with any crime. Everything that can be written has been written at this time.[JWR Adds: For example, see the discussions at the AR15.com Forums, at LibertyPost.org, 1911Forum.com, et cetera. ]
In retrospect, there are some things I should have done, but that I didn't. (I pooh-poohed some of your preparedness ideas, shame on me. Learn from my mistakes.)
1) Did not stash my extra arms and ammo, and now I don't have them.
2) Should not have been as cooperative as I was, and it was little.
3) Did not have code words ready with wife when I called her.
4) Did not have my files in order, PGP or other software.
5) Thought it would never happen to me.
6) Did not have a bug out bag. My wife thought I was crazy, but now she wants them.
7) Did not heed the five warning signs that I got. All [my friends] thought that I was paranoid. Had I took action on those warnings, they [the BATFE] would have got nothing.
- Richard Celata, Owner of KT Ordnance
JWR Replies: Despite a half dozen letters from readers, I refrained to posing or commenting about this case until now. I waited until I had the time to do some background research and until I got an e-mail directly from the owner of the company. KT Ordnance was formerly an advertiser on SurvivalBlog, and a member of his family is still a SurvivalBlog advertiser. I have not read anything thusfar that would indicate that Richard Celata violated any law, or any BATFE ruling, or any "ATF Letter" guidance. Nor do I have any evidence that Richard is lunatic, a radical, a racist, or an anti-Semite. (Far be it, he is in fact a member of Jews for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership.) Nor have I heard that he has any criminal record. In short, the general consensus is that he was a law-abiding guy that played by the rules, but was nonetheless the recipient of the wrath of the ATF.---BTW I don't intend this post to foster any paranoia. However, I do think that it is prudent for anyone that stocks up logistically to leave a minimal paper/electronic trail. If you are not yet accessing the Internet with Anonymizer or StealthSurfer, you should be!---on height--see the bottom of the listing. This bike was designed and built to be parachuted out of airplanes, to be unfolded and to be ridden away in 30 seconds. These bikes are tough and light! I'm excited to have them in my ---Monday May 8 2006
Letter Re: One Option for a Vehicular Bug-Out Bag
Jim:
I received the following recommendation from a buddy of mine in Houston:
"I bought one of these bags for the truck. It is well made and works as a "Oh Sh*t" bag. I put a Glock19 with 8 mags, 2 bottled waters, 2 flashlights, spare batteries, a folding knife, two 50 round boxes of spare ammo and still have room for whatever I come up with. It has a shoulder strap and when adjusted properly, hangs well to
the weak-side of body. The pockets are of various sizes and hold well. I take it out of the truck at night and place back [there] in the morning. Highly recommend. Hope that I never need it." - K.T.---Monday May 1 2006
Thoughts On Disaster Survival, by Mel in Texas
I live in Texas so this is on my mind. But could be relative to anything...
Thoughts On Disaster Survival
1. Have a bug-out kit ready at all times.
2. Renew supplies in your bug-out kit on a regular basis.
3. Plan on needing a LOT more supplies than you think.
4. In a real emergency, forget about last-minute purchases.
5. Make sure your vehicle will carry your essential supplies.
6. A big bug-out vehicle can be a handicap.
7. Make sure you have a bug-out place handy.
8. Provide entertainment for younger children.
9. Pack essentials first, then luxuries.
10. Don't plan on fuel being available en route.
11. Have enough money with you for at least two weeks.
12. Don't be sure that a disaster will be short-term.
13. Don't rely on government-run shelters if at all possible.
14. Warn your friends not to bring others with them!!!
15. Have account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions.
16. Have portable weapons and ammo ready (close at hand.)
Update 1
1. Route selection is very, very important.
2. The social implications of a disaster situation. (not 'politically correct', but dismiss at your peril)3. Implications for security.
4. "Too many chiefs, not enough Indians" in New Orleans.
5. Long-term vision. 6. Personal emergency planning.
7. The "bank problem." If yours is a local bank and all are under water, for example, checks are unverifiable (read: worthless)
8. Helping one's friends is likely to prove expensive.
Update 2
1. People who were prepared were frequently mobbed/threatened by those who weren't.
2. When help gets there, you may get it whether you like it or not.
3. There seems to be a cumulative psychological effect upon survivors.
4. There is widespread frustration over the lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government.
5. Expect rescuers (including law enforcement) to enforce a distinctly un-Constitutional authority in a disaster situation.
6. Don't believe that rescuers are all knights in shining armor who will respect your property.
Update 3
1. If you choose to help, you may be sucked into a bureaucratic and legal nightmare.2. Law enforcement problems will often be "glossed over" and/or ignored by authorities.3. Your personal and/or corporate supplies and facilities may be commandeered without warning, receipt or compensation.
4. If you look like you know what you're doing, you may be a target of those less prepared. (*IMPORTANT!*)5. Those who thought themselves safe from the disaster were often not safe from refugees.
6. Self-reliance seems to draw suspicion upon you from the authorities.
7. Relief workers from other regions and States often don't know local laws.
8. Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs.
Letter Re: Source for Shelf Stable Bread or Crackers? |Main| Letter Re: A Source for Night Vision Scopes »
Saturday March 25 2006
Letter Re: Pedal-Powered Bug Out Vehicle---
xttp://www.andygraham.net/railrod/AndyKeithRide.htm---positions one a cramped remote cabin and some buckets of food and gear the other a friend who had well prepared but was too close to a highway. Circumstances would have dictated which to go to. In winter, my plan was to ski and sled in my gear. Without the assistance of a massive snow plowing network, much of the northern United States would be locked-in, once winter arrived. Almost all logging roads and highways would be closed until the snow melts. This seasonal closure can actually work for your retreat, by providing cheap security--filtering to just a tiny number of Sno-cats and snowmobiles ---across the following article http://www.arcticbeacon.com/22-Jan-2006.html. The article covers a nuclear attack and a financial collapse in America within 90 days. (sometime in March of 2006). This got our attention, BIG TIME. On January 25 the following article was posted on Arcticbeacon http://www.arcticbeacon.com/25-Jan-2006.html. An attack was imminent in 9 days for Texas City-Houston area. On January 26 the following article was posted http://www.arcticbeacon.com/26-Jan-2006b.html. Houston police running nuclear disaster drills. I did my best to checkout the articles and the sources, however, I felt really pressed for time so the decision to bug out was made on January 26. I realize that this might not seem like a lot of good intel, however, since Kansas City was mentioned as a possible target and since we live close to Kansas City, so it really wasn't that hard of a decision. Also, we have been watching the U.S. economy (see the novel by Jim Rawles Patriots), gold and silver, the stock markets, dollars and Euros ( especially dollar reserves vs. euro in other countries), oil and gas, open borders, U.S. and world politics, Iran and Syria, North Korea, etc. We went into "Condition Red". Because the "advanced warning" calculated the possible deed to be accomplished on February 1st or 3rd we decided to bug out to our Rally Point (RP) on the next Monday, January 30. I didn't want us to be trapped in a major city if the balloon went up. I envisioned martial law would be used and traveling would be suspended. I also envisioned road blocks everywhere to stop any more "terrorists" still out there roaming around looking for more targets. Lots of "shoot first and don't ask any questions." This also gave us time to "calmly" pack the vehicles. Even while being highly motivated, at times, we suffered from severe brain deadness. I found you really need a clear cut list of the items to take. You need to have them bagged, boxed and tagged so there is no searching and second guessing yourself. You need to know what goes where in which vehicle. I don't like to say this but I believe thinking about this while doing it causes haste. Your lists and bug out plan(s) have to be already worked out. I can only imagine what it would have been like if the balloon had already gone up. Remember that the time you take loading your vehicle(s) only takes away your bug out time or put another way, your window of opportunity is closing.
FAMILY/FRIENDS/WORK/SCHOOL--We informed a limited number of family members and friends of the situation. We had to treat this like a medical triage situation. Certain people would be told and the decision to leave was up to them. Others would not be told since we know them and it would have opened a whole new can of worms we didn't want or need to deal with at that time. My older son and family who lives in the fallout path east of Texas City-Houston area agreed to come to the RP. My two middle kids, 18 year old daughter and 23 year old son, live close to us and after some discussion they also agreed to go. I left the decision up to them since they are of age. Our 16 year old son didn't have a choice. The good thing about all these family members is that they are mostly on board with the survival mindset and are aware of what is happening in the world around them. I couldn't imagine the stress if they weren't. Two survival friends were also informed, however, they decided they would shelter in place if the balloon went up. We wished each other the best of luck.
The previous Christmas I had given my middle kids Bug Out Bags or B.O.B.s as they are always referred to. I got lots of strange looks from them but they smiled and made me feel good. Two weeks before the Bug Out and before the articles at Arcticbeacon.com I was getting this uneasy feeling that they needed to have their B.O.B.s accessible and ready to go. Of course the B.O.B.s weren't ready so I badgered them until they put them back together. It took them a week. They were ready when I called them about the Bug Out. They did really well.
We decided that a little "white lie" would be used on our employers and schools. A family illness/emergency had happened to my parents and we have to go to see them . It could possibly be a week but we're not sure. Not very original but effective. I know it was wrong to do this, however, for the OPSEC of the bug out it was needed. This did come back to haunt my middle son. When he had gotten back from the bug out he was fired from his job. Two edged sword. He has since landed another job. This is something that everyone will have to consider for their bug out plan and whether it is a GRID-UP or GRID-DOWN bug out. Both of which are going to be totally different.
PRE-POSITIONING of SUPPLIES--We decided it was time to preposition as many supplies as possible during this time. We took most of our storage food, 1/2 of our MRE's, 3/4 of our ammo (in military ammo cans), two rifles in cosmolene, medical supplies, 3/4 of our vitamins, miscellaneous fuels (butane, kerosene and lamp oil), shelves, all the camping equipment, reference books, extra clothes and shoes, miscellaneous house supplies, extra garden tools, TA-1 field phones and wire, kerosene heater, 3/4 of our candles and lamps and about 1/2 of our seeds. Other items we brought but didn't put into storage was 40 gallons of treated gasoline (get the military gas cans not the plastic ones they aren't as tough), 30 gallons of drinking water, generator, 2 cycle weed eater, 2 cycle chain saw with extras, 2 cycle oil, two tubs of power tools and hand tools (with nails and screws), all my rifles and pistols with mags and ammo. cleaning kits and tools, weapons spare parts, 4 cases of bottled water and several food tubs. We really like those plastic tubs. To help in this effort we rented a 6' x 12' covered trailer. It took us a while to get it because they only had one attendant . If your going this route to transport stuff make sure you have a proper hitch (class 1, 2or3) and electrical hook ups. It makes it that much easier and saves time. Time you might not have. One other suggestion, buy a covered trailer (all metal/aluminum). Remember, it has to be sized for your vehicles towing capacity. Also paint it a subdued color. The orange and white of the trailer we had really sticks out. You don't want people to see what you have and covering with a tarp doesn't hide everything and you can't lock it up. Anyway, when we got there we were the only customer, however, by the time we left there were 10 customers waiting (it took them 30 min). I tried to imagine how it would be if the balloon had already gone up and everyone was freaking out.
Since our RP is 30 minutes from the retreat and that we still don't have a storage barn built on the retreat we rented a storage shed closer to our RP. All of our supplies were put into the storage shed. More items will be put there in the very near future
CONVOY-- For the purpose of this report I will call my convoy Group 1 (Chevy 4WD with camper top and trailer, Ford Windstar and Ford Explorer (4WD) and my oldest son from down south Group 2 (Dodge mini van). Group 1 was on the road by 11 a.m. Monday, January 30 like we had planned. The trip to the RP should take 4 hours. My middle son and daughter in his van, my wife in her SUV and my step-son and I in my truck/trailer. We used FRS radios to communicate with each other. It was good practice for everyone. We had cell phones but they aren't as handy for close communication. We had plenty of batteries for all the radios with lots of spares. Rechargeable batteries with a solar charger will be used next time. The cell phone came in handy when calling Group 2 for progress updates. I had split some of the rifles and pistols between the 3 vehicles. At the current time we traveled on "Condition yellow". This meant all weapons were in their gun case or gun rug, locked and unloaded. If the balloon had gone up while we were on the road we would have gone to "Condition Red" and we would have locked and loaded. I don't think the MZBs (mad zombie bikers) would have been out yet, however, you never know. As an acquaintance once told me "better safe than sorry". Group 2 had no firearms and this greatly concerned me and there was nothing I could do about it. We prayed nothing would happen and that they would arrive at the RP safe. They arrived safe, in fact beating us to the RP.
Now, driving with the trailer was ok but it liked to skittle around a bit. Anyone who has pulled a trailer knows this. I could only travel between 55 and 65 mph. So Group 1 had to basically go as fast as me. Or, you're only as fast as your slowest member. The trip took us 6 hours -vs.-the regular 4 hours. I believe that is because when you add more vehicles and people you will stop more often for eating, bathroom breaks, etc. Group 1 followed the primary route. This was all done on major highways through cities and towns. These are also choke points if something were to happen. I had two other routes picked out. These would have taken a lot longer but would be safer than the major refugee routes. My mistake was I only had one set of maps. I will make map sets for everyone here real soon. We also had $1,000 in cash and our barter silver. We also brought our house, property, vehicle and personal papers along in a fire proof safe. Very good things to have to prove ownership etc.
later on.
BUG OUT GEAR-- Everyone in Group 1 one had their own B.O.B.s. Ours are equipped for less than a week. Along with the B.O.Bs three of us had our combat loads. These were kept close to us in the vehicles. Group 2 had no B.O.B.s or combat loads. My older son is working to put his families together.
WEAPONS and TARGET SHOOTING-- We went to the retreat to get some target shooting in. I also wanted to see how the rifles (FAL, AKs, SKS, AR-180B, M1 Carbine), ammo and mags worked with sustained fire. I have to take 2 rifles to the gunsmith for adjustment. Also found out that the 20 round detachable SKS mags I had don't work well. The only ones that did work were the original 10 round mag and 5 round detachable mags. I also spent quality time with my sons about rifle and pistol function and safety. I covered proper sight picture while acquiring targets. Everyone did well. Shot a lot of ammo.
TIME TO GO HOME-- If nothingÒhad happened by Saturday, February 4th we had decided that day would be the day we would all head back to our homes and lives. So Saturday morning we all loaded up the vehicles and said our good-byes (hugs and kisses). The trip back for Group 1 seemed to go faster. Group 2 made it back in the same amount of time it took to get there. Everyone got home safe and sound.
IN CONCLUSION--We stayed a week at the RP (hotel).The plan was, if the balloon went up, to stay there as long as the credit card would last. We would than go and gather up the supplies from the storage shed and move out to the property and set up camp. In hindsight I don't think that was the best of plans, however, at the time it was the only plan. Now that we have pre-positioned supplies, we will go straight to the retreat. Hopefully the Powers That Be will hold off long enough so we can get the storage building built on the retreat and then the house.
I found that our Bug Out was good for the following reasons:
Got to spend a lot of quality time with the grandkids.
We all got to spend qualitt time with each other (kind of a mini family reunion).
Pre-positioning of supclies at the now RP #2.
The retreat is now RP #1.
Reduced our bug out time.
Everyone knows how to get to RP #1 & 2. Still need to make maps for all.
Answered some of my own question and concerns about my firearms.
Need to get more military metal gas cans.
Had good weapons familiarization "training" with most of the shooters in the family. The women didn't shoot. They spent time visiting neighbors. (We'll work on the shooting later).
Dealt with some retreat issues that really needed dealing with.
"Better safe than sorry" is great, however, it seemed like a toss up at times. Second guessing myself caused some hesitation about bugging out. Just have to deal with that.
Since everyone, except the children, knew this was a possible SHTF scenario everyone kept their cool and didn't scare the kiddies.
Reinforced the thinking that children (babies and pre-teens) have to be really kept occupied during a bug out. Everyone has to chip in and help and they did. Even the teenagers (surprising). An adult(s) needs to be a cruise director for the bug out. The little toys, games etc we bought before the bug out paid off. It would have been a long week if we hadn't have maie some plans. Not everything worked out, so, have plan B, C, D…!
This event has pushed us to get the storage shed built at the retreat ASAP.
The emotional side of the bug out is very stressful for people. As I said before, have as much of your supplies tagged and know where it all will go in your bug out vehicles. Have a plan for the GRID -UP and GRID-DOWN bugout. Remember to eat well and drink lots of fluids. Don't forget to take your prescription meds if you have them.
Try and get at least 30 days supply of prescription meds above your usual monthly supply. More if possible. I'm researching the homeopathic way for my prescription drugs.
OPSEC is very important. Everyone that is part of the bug out needs to understand this perfectly. If you have time before the bug out load your vehicles at night. If you have a garage, pull the back of the vehicle into the garage door and load from the privacy of the garage. Shop for the extra things you need anytime but load at night. Neighbors do watch what is going on and they will come ask questions. If they do just tell them your little "white lie". Just remember that the more "white lies " you use the harder it will be to keep up with them all. Making trips during the year will help as they will see this trip as nothing out of the norm. Wear civilian clothes. Don't wear camos. This will scare the neighbors seeing several people next door running around in camos. Plenty of time to change later if you really need to. Once we got to the RP we had informed other family that we were on a one week vacation with the grand kids and all. That really wasn't telling a "white lie." I'm writing this on February 14th which is way after the fact and nothing has blown up and no one is glowing…yet. Thank God it was a false alarm this time. Everyone made it home safe and sound. The financial cost of this bug out was substantial. I won't discuss it here because it can really vary per individual or group. All in all it was money well spent and the lessons learned are priceless.---Sunday February 26 2006
The "Field Kit" Approach for Organization, Preparedness, and Survival, by Christian Souljer
When trouble comes and you are required to re-locate, there may not be time to try to find, organize and then pack your emergency gear. Just the stress of an emergency situation alone can keep you from thinking clearly enough to gather and pack all you might need. Getting your gear ready in advance can minimize this problem. Over the years I have developed a system in which I assemble "Field Kits" for my outdoor and emergency equipment and supplies. This allows me to keep my stuff organized and ready for future use. I assemble the kits with items needed and then I inventory the contents and I keep a copy on file as well as a copy in the kit. That way I know what I have in there two years down the road and I also know if any of the contents have a shelf life – they have been dated and a periodic inspection of the list allows you to know if an item (such as Aspirin) should be replaced or not. In the following paragraphs I will share my experience with building and using these kits including the number of years that I have employed each different kit.
I have assembled and used the following special purpose kits as described in the following paragraphs:
Bug Out Bag (BOB): I won't write much detail about this type of kit because most of you know about these. (If not, do a Google search to get good contents lists etc., ) I use mostly backpacks for this purpose rather than a shoulder bag because I know if I have to carry the kit very far - a backpack is going to be much less fatiguing on my body than carrying the weight in my hands or on one shoulder or the other. I have a BOB backpack for everyone in my household, plus a few smaller spares. One thing I would recommend here though is to have an essentials kit within the larger full kit. For an example, a small pack inside the main compartment or attached to the outside of the large pack. (JWR recommends this.) In my main Emergency Backpack – I have a small but rigid Italian military pack that can be slid right out the top in the case that I am injured and can't carry the large pack or if I am escaping some danger but have to move fast uphill – I can pull the little pack out and go. The little pack has all the essentials: plastic tarp, fire starters, water, a little food, flashlight, rope, compass, knife and so on. (I made my first "survival kit" as a Boy Scout in the 1970s, but this mentioned pack has been in place since 1993. I have field tested the overall pack.)
Rifle Kit: The rifle kit is a kit made specifically for a certain rifle. It can contain 6-to-12 spare magazines, spare parts, and cleaning kit, gun oil and lubes, and perhaps 140 to 300 rounds of ammunition that that rifle is sighted in for. These are usually made from the common "mini-range bags" that have 6 magazine pouch pockets on the outer sides, and has both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. They can be purchased for as little as $7.95. I buy the black or O.D. green colored bags. (Used these since 1998) [JWR Adds: For these kits (rifle of shotgun accessories) I recommend that you use duffle bag that is big enough to accommodate a full set of web gear--complete with belt, suspenders or vest (LC-1, MOLLE, or perhaps set of the nice Tactical Tailor type suspenders if you have a big budget), magazine pouches, and and canteen for each long gun. IMHO no long gun is truly tactically functional unless you have a proper set of web gear--full of magazines--to go with it.]
Pistol Kit: The pistol kit is similar to the rifle kit – being made specifically for a certain pistol. It can contain 6-to-10 spare magazines, spare parts, and cleaning kit, and perhaps 100 to 300 rounds of ammunition that is known to work well in that pistol. These are made up from the same common 6 magazine pouch "mini-range bags" that have both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. (Used since 1998)
Rifle Range Kits: When heading to the rifle range, I take two kits I have prepared for that purpose. One is a toolbox, which holds most of my gun cleaning supplies and a few tools for adjusting sights, and for small repairs at the range. The second Range Kit is a shoulder bag, which holds all my paper targets, a stapler, and spare staples for mounting targets. It also holds my foam earplugs and my hearing protector headsets, range notepad/log, pens, and so on. Add your rifle, ammo and some lunch and you are ready for a day at the range. (Used since 1990)
Auto Kits: For my vehicles, I maintain multiple kits: (1) Emergency Road Kit in medium large Tupperware tub – jumper cables, flares, mechanics suit, space blanket, flashlight, etc. (2) In another medium large Tupperware tub is my Spare Parts and Repair Kit including hoses, belts, bulbs, fuses, radiator sealant, tire repair plug kit with spark plug adapter hose to fill tires, distributor cap and rotor. And for my 4WD I might include a spare water pump, alternator, starter and fuel pump. (3) A full tool set in a heavy-duty box. (4) Field Tool Kit - in my 1/2 ton 4-wheel drive Suburban I have made an additional long wood box (approximately 70" long, x 8" wide, x 17" high), which has small wheels on one end and a heavy duty cargo handle on the other end. It is tall but narrow and can hold all my field tools which include my high-lift jack, 1 or 2 come-alongs, 2 shovels, an ax, a hatchet, backpacking snow shovel, crowbar, tow strap, and large and small bow saws with extra blades. The top is held on with a window type latch on both hands and once the handle end is released the lid comes right off. You can pull a shovel from out the top or roll the box to the edge of the tailgate and set it on the ground. The wheels allow for you to roll the box all the way to the end of the tailgate before lifting out and you can also roll it across smooth ground for a short distance. This box is stained wood and coated with a sealer to minimize weather effects. (5) The Tire Chains Kit can be kept in a separate kit - a wooden box, plastic crate or in heavy canvas bags. Keep your chain tension devices in with the chains as well. (Parts of this kit used since 1992, but the wooden field box was built and employed in fall of 2005)
Chain Saw Kits: My chainsaw kit is two parts, the first being a chainsaw case with my saw, chain oil, 2-stroke oil, and funnel, spare spark plugs and tools. The second part is another Tupperware tub with pre-mixed fuel can, extra 2-stroke oil, and a large container of chain oil, heavy gloves and hearing protectors. I have not purchased extra chains or bars yet but they are on my purchase list and will be added to one of these two kits in the near future. (Used since 2004) [JWR Adds: I also strongly recommend buying a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps.]
Financial and Personal Papers Kit: This kit is composed of a medium-small fanny pack, which includes identification, passporte contact information (phone lists, account information), and some pre-1965 90% silver coins for emergency purchases or bartering. Also tucked into this little fanny pack are a "P-38" [key ring type] can opener, a small lightweight Gerber pocketknife, butane lighter and a small flashlight. For those that are so inclined, you can add other items such as precious metals, cash, a small pistol or whatever else will fit and you are willing to legally carry. (Used since 1998)
First Aid Kits: My first aid kits are in many sizes. I have the mini-kits in all the backpacks, and then I have some Auto Size kits in the vehicles, then a field medic's medium, shoulder carry kit for field use. Then, the mega-kit that has all the extra supplies, field medical books and extra medicines in it. This is a large gym bag sized bag which is red in color. I also have a yellow and purple (magenta) bag of the same size, which holds my chemical masks, extra filters, potassium iodide, gloves, shoe covers, and wipes, etc. for chemical or nuclear emergencies. (I've had these kits in place since 1999)
Winter Survival Kit: This kit is added to the vehicles that I am driving during the winter and it is a "per-person" type kit. I include insulated over-pants (or insulated coveralls) with leg zippers, incase you have to do some work outside or walk in the cold weather beyond what you would be comfortable without long johns. A sleeping bag, a heavy wool blanket, a stocking cap, heavy work gloves with liners, a lofty poly-pro pullover, and a heavy coat or parka. Along with the extra clothing here, a sleeping pad, tarp or tent, and some field foods (two MREs, a can or two of mixed nuts, a few power bars, some chocolate bars, a large bottle of Gatorade and a gallon of water) are added to this kit. (Used since 1998)
Communications /Electronics (GPS) kit: This kit is composed of the small size (.30 caliber) ammo cans which are used singularly by themselves or if two cans are used they can be tucked inside a heavy outdoor carry bag with shoulder strap. Inside the ammo cans I keep my FRS radios, a portable CB radio, headsets, operating manuals and fresh extra batteries. I also keep my GPS and 12 VDC auto adapter in the cans when not in use. This kit is carried in my vehicle on camping and hunting expeditions or other field trips. In addition, in the very large size ammo cans (measures approximately 15" x 10" x 25"), I have my spare CB radios, and other electronic equipment [to provide them protection from EMP. The large cans I keep in the garage and they are grounded to an outdoor water pipe since they are stationary. (Used since 1999)
Fire Starting Kit: This kit can be as simple as a small cardboard box, which has enough dry tinder in a heavy duty zip-lock bag to start a fire in bad /wet weather. Included here should be some homemade or commercial fire starters, candles, safety-flares, etc, (I will save the details for another article). I keep my fire starting kit with my camping stuff and pack it in with my gear for the late fall hunting trips. (Used since 1986)
Camp Kitchen Kit: The Camp Kitchen Kit is a ready to go complete kitchen other than the food and it's all packed into one box. It has stainless eating utensils (silverware) for 10 people. Over several years I found a number of stainless steel pots of slightly different sizes that will all fit together into one stack in my plastic kitchen box with folding lids. I also have a plastic pitcher, which I fill with the silverware, plastic re-usable plates, cups and bowls. I have a small grill to place over rocks, a coffee pot, several large serving spoons, spatulas, and kitchen knives. I have a roll of heavy duty aluminum foil, plastic wrap, half gallon baggies, and a whole box of strike anywhere matches, a long neck lighter, bar soap, a small bottle of dish soap, wash cloth, hand towel, and steel wool and copper scrub pads. Salt, pepper and other spices are included along with paper towels, coffee filters and about 60 paper plates. All of this fits nicely into my heavy-duty plastic kitchen box. (Used since 1988) I have a second box, which goes on some excursions – this kit has a large Dutch oven with lid, a lid lifting handle, a cast iron skillet and a manual coffee grinder. I keep at least two bags of charcoal (and some lighter fluid) on hand for the Dutch oven. (Used since 2003)
Notes on Kitchen Kits: Medium to large metal cups can be used for coffee, soup or whatever and can be kept warm by placing them on the campfire rocks or on the edge of your cook stove. It's nice to keep your food and drink hot in cold weather! Some real decent outdoor cookware such as stainless pots and pans, utensils etc, can be purchased for very little money at a thrift store. I once had to buy some of these items when I went on an "emergency field trip" and realized in the rush that I had not gotten any cookware packed. I stopped in a small town and picked up all I needed for less than $3.00. Most of that stuff is now in one of two permanent kits.
Field Food Kit: It is a good thing to always have some fresh camping type foods ready in a box for a quick field trip. This can be the usual soup, chili, canned meats, rice, beans, noodles, MREs, and freeze dried food. Add to this power bars, Gatorade, and whatever else you prefer for quick field meals. (Used since 2003)
Stove and Lantern Kits: I purchased a propane adapter for my Coleman fuel stove and I keep both the adapter and the fuel tank with the stove to burn whichever is available. I can fit at least one propane bottle inside the stove when it is stored. I also keep spare mantles, and generators inside my Coleman stove and lantern boxes along with good quality strike any ware matches. And I store my stove and lanterns with fresh fuel in them so that they are ready to go right out of the box. That way when I arrive at camp in the dark, I can produce some light, or cook some food without having to refill first. I have not had any leakage problems in the 10+ years I have used this practice. Also, I never store (put away after a trip) a lantern with bad mantles, but rather put new replacements on if they need it before storage, but I don't burn them in until I get into the field. (Used since 1995)
Fishing Kit: Mainly for organization – I keep most of my fishing gear in one large rubberized bag which is camo'd and is designed for holding duck and geese decoys. It has the usual handles and H.D. shoulder strap. I keep my fishing tackle boxes, gill nets, folding fishing rod/reel, and all my spare fishing gear in the bag except for the full size rods. The fishing rods are kept in an overhead rod holder (nice and out of the way). Of course I have some mini fishing kits/nets in my survival kits. (Used since 2004)
Hunting Kit: My Hunting Kit consists of a camouflage bag which holds hunting maps, game regulations, game calls, safety equipment like orange vests/hats, game bags, animal scale, game scents, and other things needed for hunting that are not included in the other kits. (Used since 1987)
Shelter /Camp Kits: In a GI duffle bag with shoulder straps I keep a full size camping tent, all of its poles and stakes, and some rope. I have a dedicated "ground cloth" tarp, which I keep with this duffle bag. In a second very large bag I keep most of my folded tarps of various sizes. I also keep most of my remaining rope in this big bag in two different large zip lock bags. In addition, I have a camp "outhouse kit" which is a regular home toilet seat mounted on an aluminum folding camp chair frame, along with a large tarp setup and more rope. (Used since 1996)
Personal Gear Kit: My Personal Gear Kit is a medium small bag sized to fit on the front seat of my Chevy Suburban. In it I keep the stuff that I want handy there and also things I might put into my pockets when walking into the woods but stuff I don't want to carry on my person through the evening once back in camp. Things like a GPS, FRS radio, Binoculars, Range finder, gloves, sunglasses and other personal gear that you probably won't need in camp. This bag keeps my front seat more organized during road trips too. (Used since 2004)
Packing and Storing Your Kits: Remember to inventory your kits as you make them. Keep duplicate contents lists on file, and label your kits well. In addition to my personal color-coding systems, I attach tags or in many cases I just make a label from 1-inch masking tape describing the type of kit and attach it to the box or to the shoulder strap of the kit. I affix the labels to either the end or side of the box, and also on the top of the box so that no matter how it is stored on a shelf – I can see one or both labels and I know what kit that is. If I am not sure what is in the kit - I just have to check the inventory sheet to verify the contents.
As JWR and others have mentioned – it is an excellent exercise to try packing your emergency equipment into your escape vehicle. This will help you learn two things, first – how to pack it most efficiently and second to know how much your vehicle(s), trailer, or whatever you are planning to use will carry. [JWR Adds: It is crucial that you pre-position the majority of your gear at your intended retreat, since you may only have one trip outta Dodge!] For packing your gear into your vehicles, it is good to find containers (boxes, bags) that will pack well together. For the larger kits, I usually use stackable boxes that together are a little shorter than the height of my SUV. Then I pack the smaller and softer gear around them.
Conclusion: Once you have made your kits, test them in the field. Make sure they work, and that they have what you need, but not a bunch of stuff you will never use. Having your equipment "kitted up" and ready to go will help you to be ready when the big event hits. Whether it is a tsunami, an earthquake, an economic collapse or a full scale invasion by foreign troops – you'll be ready, and this preparation will give you some peace of mind knowing that you are much more ready that the average Joe. Once your done, help a neighbor and a friend build a kit. Be Prepared, - Christian Souljer, Pacific Northwest
JWR Adds: I greatly appreciate you sharing your experience and insights. It goes without saying that it is important to rotate the perishable items in your various kits regularly. In particular: food items, batteries, some first aid supplies, and chemical light sticks.
Permalink Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Advantages and Disadvantages of New Zealand Tuesday February 21 2006
Letter From Mr. Bravo Re: Money Belts, Large Bills, and Gold for the Grid-Up Bugout Bag
Jim,
I don't know how recognized a Euro note would be in a U.S. crisis, especially the premium of the dollar. ("Funny money" may even be assumed to be devalued, as if Canadian.)
The real concern about large Euro notes is that of presumed counterfeiting. A British friend recently told me that 500 Euro notes are essentially not legal tender for most commercial transactions, due to widespread counterfeiting suspicions. You can take them to a bank, but that is about it.
-----Sunday February 19 2006
Hurricane Katrina -- A First Hand Bugout Account from August 2005
The following anonymously-posted account is re-posted with permission from Mel's Riser's "My Solar Village" blog (http://mysolarvillage.blogspot.com.) Some of you might find this account is eerily reminiscent of my novel Patriots:
The craziest thing about the whole Katrina fiasco was that my father in law (technically he's just my girlfriend's dad, but we've been together long enough that this is what we call him.) I always make fun of him because he keeps his garage stocked with something like 100 gallons of water, a bunch of big jugs full of treated gasoline, food, etc. He also owns quite a few guns. So I picked on him a lot for being borderline nuts even though he's fairly normal. So when Katrina rolled around I ended up evacuating with them since the woman wanted to be with her parents. It took us 35 hours of nonstop driving to drive to Dallas. It's usually a four hour drive or so. About twelve hours or so in you had to drive around a car that had run out of fuel every fifty feet or less. They were everywhere. It was hot, too, and we saw hundreds of families standing on the side of the road sweating. A lot had infants and little kids. Even if you somehow did find a gas station that wasn't sold out of gasoline (probably 9 out of 10 were sold out) the line was literally miles long. About 20 hours in, or a little over halfway to Dallas, we noticed the convenience stores were being looted. The people busted out the windows (we didn't see who, but they were busted out) and we saw people coming out with any drink they could find. It was pretty much chaos. There was one cop on the scene and he wouldn't get out of his car. He just sat across his street with his lights swirling and people ignored him. By this time there were so many cars broken down that we spent a lot of our time driving off road. We had a big tarp on the back of the truck with all the gasoline but we were forced to fuel up in front of people. We had enough fuel to fill up our two vehicles three times which turned out to be just enough to get us to Dallas. As we were fueling up crowds of not-so-nice looking folks with empty gas tanks were staring us down. We gave one guy five gallons of fuel because he had two little kids. We were approached the second time we fueled up on the side of the road by a pissed-off bunch of people asking for gas. We told them we needed it. They didn't care obviously. One younger guy went towards the back of the truck and said something like "I'm taking one, call the f**king police if you want." and my father in law had to use his pistol to convince the guy otherwise. We were then standing there, funnel in the truck, me trying to pour gas in, him with a pistol in his hand, my girlfriend and her mom crying, and all of the gas-thief's buddies looking real tough. He just stood there like some sort of tough-guy a**hole. I got the cap back on the jug and we got out of there with our nerves really frazzled. I kept my pistol loaded after that. We went through a LOT of water. It was really pretty hot out there. I slept in little two or three minute bursts when traffic was stopped which it almost always was. Sit for a few minutes, move ten feet. Repeat a thousand f**king times. My leg actually cramped up from break/accelerate/breaking so many times and I had to pull over. This happened to pretty much all of us. It sounds melodramatic but driving actually f**king hurt at that point. To save on fuel I didn't run my air conditioner so I was also sweating the whole time but we thankfully had a lot of water. At close to 30 hours people got fed up with the traffic and we started seeing cars zipping past us on the southbound side of the freeway, heading north the wrong way. There were still quite a few emergency vehicles heading south so this was a dangerous idea. It didn't take long until hundreds of people switched to the other lane and headed northbound on it. A half mile or so up we saw the first head on collision. A family headed north had struck a police cruiser heading south at the crest of a hill. They'd never seen each other until the last second, I guess. We saw a lot of these accidents. The swarm beat the police,though, and we were out in nowhere, Texas anyway so there probably weren't that many police to respond. Eventually the entire southbound lane was just as clogged as the northbound. More so, really, because there were the head-on accidents. The police couldn't go south or north now so it was a kind of weird feeling of being on your own. So many people were broken down now that you had to swerve not to just hit the people who were out lingering. They had nowhere to go. Our big tarp-covered pickup drew a lot of eyes, too. We again had to fill up in front of hundreds of people. He again had to use his pistol as a friendly reminder that we didn't wish to be robbed. He never actually pointed it at anybody, he just took it out and held it as a reminder. People just stared at us with hate. I can't blame them, I guess. But he was watching out for his wife and daughter and I was watching out for her as well. Most people would do the same.
Permalink Letter Re: Hyperinflation in Serbia and Zimbabwe |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:Saturday February 18 2006David in Israel on the Grid-Up Bugout Bag
Grid-up bugouts of the non-universal TEOTWAWKI type (more like Hurricane Katrina) allow you to take advantage of modern infrastructure even if you have limited means. If your escape happens during a time where resources allow a hotel may be a better choice for those who have lost their primary residence (rural or urban) and do not have a fallback location yet. In the event of a major power outage the cellular infrastructure has several days of generator power at each tower so the ease and reliability of mobile telephony may have advantages over ham radio for contacting family. In unaffected areas ragged dirty survivors and strange vehicles may be treated with suspicion a good appearance is key when interacting in normal areas. The following are some things to consider for your Bug Out Bag (BOB) -- also known as a Get Out Of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) pack:
Cellular Telephone:
Think about getting a plan that includes Internet make sure that your phone supports Bluetooth or IR, a data cable which works with your computer will also work. I suggest having a paid up prepaid SIMM chip taped in the battery cover purchased cash from a convenience store in case you need to switch phone numbers. A 1-800 type calling card for pay phones is a very useful tool.
PDA or Laptop:Having access to web information has clear advantages, make sure you have car charger if in a vehicle. If in a pack PDA with a keyboard makes more sense wi-fi or cellular telephone connection will get you online.
Chargers:Both a AA/AAA/9V battery charger and power cables for your gadgets keep you going, A crank charger is an excellent idea especially for your cellular telephone.
Immersion Boiler:Available worldwide (both 120 and 220 VAC models) this small tool will heat water to boiling quickly or heat a bucket of water to bath/washing temperature in about ten minutes.
Washing:A flat universal sink/tub stopper and a lighter bungee type clothesline are all you need to keep your clothing presentable if you must interact with the otherwise normal world. Dish soap works very well for hand washing.
Vehicle "Camouflage":A standard [loose fitting] car cover often has the power to make your car somewhat invisible, in a suburban/urban neighborhood especially in sunnier areas these are more common.
Most important is that it makes the vehicle anonymous even if you need to sleep inside you are mostly protected from security or police or neighbors shining the vehicle at night.
Documents:A USB type keychain drive [commonly called a "thumb drive" or "stick"] allows access to your files, even in a library. Reduced size hard and scan copies in a double ziplock of marriage, military, birth, home and vehicle titles, education docs, certifications, licenses, resumes, previous employer and finance info are high on the list of docs to have.
Computer files can also be stored on email or file storage sites.
Money:
If possible have duplicate ATM/debit cards as well as credit cards in your BOB. Several hundred dollars in mixed bills cash several sealed opaque pouches is a good idea too.
Meals: Eating out at restaurants may be convenient but is a terrible waste of cash unless Uncle Sam is picking up the tab. Cook using your immersion boiler or in the coffee maker provided with most rooms many recipes are available on the net, avoid the temptation to use a liquid fuel stove inside for obvious safety reasons.
[JWR Adds:] The majority of your cash should be carried in a money belt, especially if think that you might end up in a public shelter. You will probably want the majority of it in the most compact form available--large denomination bills. Here in the U.S., we are unfortunately limited to $100 bills--the largest denomination in circulation. However, in Canada C$500 bills are still in circulation, and in Europe there are EU500 bills. Both of those take a little searching to procure, but are generally available without paying a premium.] About money, if you become displaced you likely will have a very high cash burn rate as well as loss of work income all add stress especially if you have family worries included. A single male may find shelter in a youth hostel or less secure in a low rent hotel. Both options leave you wide open to loss of your gear to theft. Keep your vehicle in mind as a shelter. A much better idea is to be in contact with your particular religious community in the place you are staying and be placed with a family. This, or a real hotel are the most viable options open to a displaced family.
Permalink Letter Re: Defensive Shotguns on a Budget |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:Tuesday February 7 2006
Letter Re: David in Israel on Fire StartingMr. Rawles:David from Israel wrote in with some interesting suggestions on fire starting. The method that I use in severe weather conditions is to first dig a small hole, about 6 inches in diameter and about 8 inches deep. Facing into the wind, I dig a small channel into the side of the hole, about 2 or 3 inches wide and sloping up from the bottom of the small hole, about 6 inches long. Then I put tinder in the pit and arrange short twigs around the tinder so that the twigs look like a teepee. To make tinder you can use cotton balls dipped in paraffin wax, or take a small block of resinous wood such as yellow pine and cut slivers and shavings off of it, then cut the block making slivers still attached to the block. You can also use straw or dry grass for tinder - if the grass on top is wet usually you can find dry grass below. I cover the circular hole with twigs and tinder, leaving the channel open, and then put small (1 inch diameter) sticks on top arranged ends inward, in a circle. If the wind is blowing hard, it's a good idea to make a windbreak so that the hole does not have wind blowing directly into it. Sticks, grass, and rocks make a good windbreak - place it about a foot away from the hole. Now take a match and strike it in the channel and put the flame on the tinder, or take a piece of flint and rub it against a piece of steel to produce sparks and make sure they land on the tinder. You'll see the tinder catch, and then blow carefully on the tinder so as not to put it out. It takes a bit of practice, so try this when your life doesn't depend on it (surely people camped out when they were growing up and know about all this?) When you see a flame, put sticks and dry grass in the channel, and soon you will have a good fire. I used this method to start a fire in a blizzard where the snow was blowing straight across (and made a six-inch layer on my sleeping bag in the morning) and the fire was really hot, but there was still six inches of ice around the fire, then snow. BTW, if you want to sleep soundly in such a situation, make sure your head is covered. - H.L.
Permalink Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Using Checklists as a Retreat Planning Tool ----With typical backpacking gear you might have:
5 lbs. pack 3 lbs. sleeping bag 5 lbs. tent 2 lbs. stove, fuel and pot
1 lb sleeping padThe five heaviest items adds up to 16 lbs.
My ultra-light gear:
16 oz. pack 21 oz. down top bag (sleeping bag without bottom)
8 oz. silnylon 8x10 tarp7 oz. electric draft wood burning stove*
4 oz. aluminum pot and lid 9 oz. Ridgerest sleeping pad
* This is a custom made item. Alcohol or Trioxane stoves are more readily available.
The same items add up to 4 lbs.,1 oz.
This is less than the weight of a typical empty backpack. With ultra light gear it is relatively easy to keep your pack weight, minus food and water, less than 10 lbs. With a total pack weight less than 20 lbs it is possible to walk briskly for long periods of time.
Do you regularly travel with 30 to 40 lbs on your back? Add any weapons to your pack and the weight goes up dramatically. A difficult situation is not the time to practice being a beast of burden. In addition, a heavy load will have an impact on your ability to respond to confrontations or emergencies.
You should include an ultra-light BOB in your vehicle kit.
---end of 28goodc.txt clips for print.-- next is 6-12-08:new related? stuff:
alpha.txt the alpha-statagy:how the money-system itself is used to rob and control people...cross.txt:underground churches in china: are part of a DVD series called "The Cross - Jesus in China." ---dino.txt:creation-science reports kent-hovin---ice.txt:iceagenow.com global-freezing reports---jobs.txt:craigslist.org A Second Income--A Key Goal for Family Preparedness:for the ranch. The family was easily able to feed itself, but despite their best efforts, chunk after chunk of the ranch was taken over by the county and the bankers for unpaid taxes and unpaid agricultural loans, between 1932 and 1942. By the time that the economy started to recover during World War II, the ranch was down to only about 800 acres.
Successful home-based businesses usually center around: unfilled needs. In a rural area, that is easy. Just ask your neighbors: Is there anything that you buy or rent, or service that you "hire" on a regular basis that currently requires a 40+ mile drive "to town"? Those are your potential niches.
A successful recession-proof home-based business is likely to be one where the demand for your goods and services is consistent--even in a weak economy. These include septic tank pumping, home security/locksmithing, care fore the very young and the very old, and escapist diversions such as DVD movie rentals. (It is noteworthy that the movie industry was was one of the few sectors of the economy that prospered in the 1930s.)
Another category of business that prospered in the 1930s was repair businesses. Obviously, in hard economic times, people try to make do with what they have. So repair businesses are a natural. If there is some small appliance that you could repair that could be mailed from and back to the customer, so much the better. (That way you could have a nationwide business, rather than just a local one.) This might include: DVD player repair, laptop computer repair, and so forth.
Another category is second-hand stores. People on tight budgets will be actively looking for sccond-hand goods, rather than buy new items. A second-hand book store in a medium-sized town might do just fine in a depression.
Yet another approach, for those with mechanical aptitude and don't mind strenuous outdoor work: Own one or more useful pieces of fairly expensive machinery that a lot of people need to rent (or hire the services of ) on a fairly regular basis, but that are expensive enough that they cannot justify buying one for themselves. Typically, this is a piece of machinery that sells for $2,000 to $20,000 that you can "hire out" (a horse talent?)---get liability insurance started before you officially launch your business. Then it is simple enough to advertise your services on the Internet, through your local chamber of commerce, and post flyers at the local feed store and supermarket. You can "scale" the size of your second business (read: how busy you'll be) by setting your prices. If you want a lot of "hours", then price it low. If you are getting too much work, then just start raising your rates---buiness-cards are nice...but finding your naybors neeeds is direct.---lion.txt:buddist:all is your dream...more real than Hell---pers.txt:My young father was part of the "Hjemme Fronten" (the Home Front) -- an underground army of loyal Norwegians who would rather die than submit to Nazi tyranny. Caught helping other brave soldiers escape into neutral Sweden, he endured hunger, torture, and the threat of death in three concentration camps before his release at the end of the war. Through the years of oppression, we all learned to treasure our freedom.---friends became enemies---Nazi propaganda. Pausing by each display, I was startled by words that could so easily describe America today. The quotes brought stark reminders that---apart from God, human nature doesn't change with time. Nor do the aims of the spiritual mastermind behind the scenes who has always sought ways to stir hatred toward God's people. One tactic was simply to provide nice-sosunding alternatives to biblical loyalty and service.
"Individuals were urged to sacrifice themselves for a greater 'People's Community,'" announced one of the displays. Such slogans must have sounded good to the masses, for few saw the cruel manipulation behind the noble words.
I thought of President Clinton's calls for "sacrifice", "service, "unity", "common values", "civil society," and "safe" communities. How many people today see the ominous new meanings behind these nice sounding words?
Another display stated that-
"elementary schools became forums of public indoctrination.
"The Gestapo gathered much of its information from private citizens. Even children were taught to report on their parents. The Gestapo's main sources, however, were Nazi party officials. who constantly monitored the activities of all citizens [and] used such information to track political opponents."
If you have read our articles, you know that America's leaders are using intrusive surveys, assessments, and classroom encounter groups to persuade children to divulge private information about their family's faith, values, disciplines, and church attendance. As in Nazi Germany, socialization, not academic learning, has become the primary goal of education. Children are learning the group thinking and socialist values needed for the envisioned 21st century communities and global workforce.
Do you find this hard to believe? Many do. That's why we urge you to read some of our articles that document the "paradigm shift" from American individualism and freedom to collectivism and control. Just go to our "articles" page and find the following reports that will help you and your loved ones understand and prepare for the growing hostility toward biblical Christianity:
Clinton's War on Hate Bans Christian Values
The Giver: Serving A Greater Whole
The Enemy of The People? What Happened to Parents' Rights?
The UN Plan For Global Control: A Report on Habitat II
Local Agenda 21 - The U.N. Plan for Your Community
The Nazi Model For Outcome-Based Education
A National Information System: Executive Order #13011
Character Training For Global Citizenship
Workforce Development Means Life-Long Indoctrination
Remember, the new set of global values, based on a blend of earth-centered beliefs, socialist ideology, and globalist goals, rule out biblical boundaries and absolutes. Genuine Christianity simply won't fit.
Our political, legal and education systems have been infiltrated by leaders who have betrayed America for a hollow vision of a global village. Hollywood has taught our children to delight in evil, while schools immerse them in pagan rituals to other gods. Many church leaders are ashamed to mention sin and the cross, and most "Christians" are drifting with the trends, too distracted to know or care.
We shouldn't be surprised. Again and again, the Old Testament shows our natural inclination to drift toward apathy, compromise, rebellion, and paganism -- anything but God Himself. It's happening in America, and 1 Corinthians 10:1-11 tells us that we are not immune to consequences like those that destroyed ancient Israel. Did we forget?
God told us repeatedly what would happen to a nation that that refuses to ---apart from God, human nature doesn't change with time. Nor do the aims of the spiritual mastermind behind the scenes who has always sought ways to stir hatred toward God's people. One tactic was simply to provide nice-sosunding alternatives to biblical loyalty and service.
"Individuals were urged to sacrifice themselves for a greater 'People's Community,'" announced one of the displays. Such slogans must have sounded good to the masses, for few saw the cruel manipulation behind the noble words.
I thought of President Clinton's calls for "sacrifice", "service, "unity", "common values", "civil society," and "safe" communities. How many people today see the ominous new meanings behind these nice sounding words?
Another display stated that-"elementary schools became forums of public indoctrination"
"The Gestapo gathered much of its information from private citizens. Even children were taught to report on their parents. The Gestapo's main sources, however, were Nazi party officials. who constantly monitored the activities of all citizens [and] used such information to track political opponents."
If you have read our articles, you know that America's leaders are using intrusive surveys, assessments, and classroom encounter groups to persuade children to divulge private information about their family's faith, values, disciplines, and church attendance. As in Nazi Germany, socialization, not academic learning, has become the primary goal of education. Children are learning the group thinking and socialist values needed for the envisioned 21st century communities and global workforce.
Do you find this hard to believe? Many do. That's why we urge you to read some of our articles that document the "paradigm shift" from American individualism and freedom to collectivism and control. Just go to our "articles" page and find the following reports that will help you and your loved ones understand and prepare for the growing hostility toward biblical Christianity:
Clinton's War on Hate Bans Christian Values
The Giver: Serving A Greater Whole
The Enemy of The People?
What Happened to Parents' Rights?
The UN Plan For Global Control: A Report on Habitat II
Local Agenda 21 - The U.N. Plan for Your Community
The Nazi Model For Outcome-Based Education
A National Information System: Executive Order #13011
Character Training For Global Citizenship
Workforce Development Means Life-Long Indoctrination
Remember, the new set of global values, based on a blend of earth-centered beliefs, socialist ideology, and globalist goals, rule out biblical boundaries and absolutes. Genuine Christianity simply won't fit.
Our political, legal and education systems have been infiltrated by leaders who have betrayed America for a hollow vision of a global village. Hollywood has taught our children to delight in evil, while schools immerse them in pagan rituals to other gods. Many church leaders are ashamed to mention sin and the cross, and most "Christians" are drifting with the trends, too distracted to know or care.
We shouldn't be surprised. Again and again, the Old Testament shows our natural inclination to drift toward apathy, compromise, rebellion, and paganism -- anything but God Himself. It's happening in America, and 1 Corinthians 10:1-11 tells us that we are not immune to consequences like those that destroyed ancient Israel. Did we forget?
God told us repeatedly what would happen to a nation that that refuses to
---May they fill you with joy at the unspeakable privilege of serving our sovereign King, following in His footsteps, and sharing His resurrection life for all eternity.
"Blessed are you when men hate you, and when they exclude you, and revile you, and cast out your name as evil, for the Son of Man's sake. Rejoice in that day and leap for joy! For indeed your reward is great in heaven." Luke 6:22-23---whp.txt:xanga.com\hypgnostic:love of war: passion of protecting The Tribe. where extreme terror and beauty meet at once. as long as we feel the need to defend our existance and vi for resources the "venusian" military exists--Drinking Watergeneral health info:
water quality tests:contaminants- Microbial (viruses, bacterias) cryptosporidium ; Inorganic (salts, metals) fluoride-4ppm, alpha,total?-0pci/L, barium-2ppm, copper-1.3ppm,,,; Pesticides and Herbicides; Volital Organic and Synthetic (by-products of industrial processes and petroleum production) trihalometahanes-80ppb, halocetic acids-60ppb ; Radioactive (some natuarlly occuring, some oil production adn mining activities; Residual Disinfectants (chlorine-4ppm, additives)......ppm(parts/million=one second in 11.5 days); pci/L(part/cubic inch /liter); ppb(parts/billion=one second in 31.7 years
decisions concerning your drinking water: Village council meetins, Public Service meetings, Village Halls Town Halls
what you can do to help protect you aquifer: call dept of public utilities-#
water system contacts: USEPA: # 18004264791-(drinking water hotline) FDA:#
ground water sources- "aquifer(water rich zone)" as water travels over the surface of the land or through the ground, it dissolves naturally occuring minerals and in some cases radioactive material, substances from animal and human activity. sewage treatment plants, septic systems, agricultural livestock operations. urban storm water runoff, industrial or domestic wastewater discharges, oil and gas production, mining, or farming. gas stations. corrosion of household plumbing. by-products of drinking water chlorination, water additives used to control microbes.
well water-recycled water-rain barrel resource-resevior water-spring water-lake water-stream water-pond water-
Low Susceptibility to Contamnation: --presence of thick protective layer of clay overlying the aguifer -- significant depth (70 to 80 feet below ground surface) of aquifer --no evidence of impact or significant levels of chemical contaminants from human activity and/or presence of potential contaminant sources in the protection area
1:43 PMTuesday, June 10, 2008---paused at 6-08\14b files:kief.txt:community. Kefirkraut is quite similar, but superior to traditional sauerkraut, I feel. The reason being that sauerkraut is traditionally prepared by the fermentation of fresh, shredded cabbage including seed spices such as juniper and caraway, and may include fresh herbs such as dill leaf, with the addition of 2% to 3% salt. In this case, common sauerkraut normally takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture.
On the opposite side of the chopping board however, kefirkraut is cultured with the addition of kefir grains incorporated as a starter-enhancer. This permits the culture-process to proceed more rapidly and without the use of any salt, or, only a small percentage of salt may be used, if desired. The culture-product can be tailor-cultured to suit personal preference of the Kefirkraut-Master. This unique method of incorporating kefir grains, influences a more rapid fermentation and as a result produces culture-vegetables with optimal nutritional value. Kefirkraut may be regarded as a vegetable-probiotic source, low in carbohydrates, rich in Lactobacilli, Yeasts, Vitamin U [only found in cabbage] and Vitamin C including some of the B group vitamins bio-synthesized by the friendly organisms native to kefir grains, and to fresh cabbage or other fresh vegetable ingredients that may be used in any given recipe.
The native microflora of cabbage is evident as a powdery white film, covering the surface of the outer dark green leaves of fresh cabbage. This film causes the interesting phenomenon, which I refer to as, water running off of a duck's back. This effect is observed by pouring water over the surface of cabbage leaves. The water is repelled from the surface of the leaf, forcing the water to form water beads, which readily roll off the leaf. This phenomenon protects the native microflora from being damaged or removed from the leaf surface in wet conditions.
Kefirkraut was conceived through the union between the native microflora of cabbage and kefir grains---KEFIRKRAUT
Kefirkraut is a naturally pickled cabbage developed without the use of salt, vinegar or any other added preservative. The process relies on the native microflora of both cabbage and kefir grains to ferment and to preserve the culture food-product. The conversion of starches and sugars [found in raw vegetable] into natural vinegar [acetic acid], lactic acid and other organic acids are the compounds responsible for naturally preserving kefirkraut.
Kefirkraut is quite simple to prepare. In fact, anyone with a small amount of excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains should find the recipe and method explained here, quite easy to follow. One has the option to include a wide variety of vegetables, including certain fresh fruits. This includes Japanese radish [Daikon] or small red radish, broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, parsnip, turnip, beet root, garlic, sprouted legumes, apple and quince etc. Kefirkraut has a crisp, fresh texture with a funky delicate flavour. It makes a wonderful addition to fresh salads, for kefirkraut provides the correct amount of a mellow-tangy-edge, just enough to enhance flavour. With the addition of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt or a small amount of traditional non-pasteurized soy sauce or non-sodium salts to taste, followed with a cup of creamy kefir... what more can one say?.. except for-- Kefir-Cheers!
Kefirkraut-- satisfies the Bliss-Point-Factor where sauerkraut fails
IngredientsUtensils
# Fermentation Vessel. A large nonmetallic 4-litre [1 gal] tall round or square container e.g., a food-grade glazed terra cotta crock or glazed stoneware crock or a glass jar as shown in picture above. A tall cylindrical vessel is best [See below].
# Mortar and pestle or food processor to bruise the cabbage.
# Large wooden-dowel. It can be e.g., a wooden rolling pin with one end sawn off square, or similar. It is best for the dowelling to be a little longer than the height of the fermentation vessel. This is your pounding tool if a mortar and pestle or food processor is not available or not preferred. Or it is your pressing tool if using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
# A Follower. This is to cover the ingredients. Either a round flat dish or a wooden disk which fits snug in the fermenting vessel. However, this may be omitted if you use a suitable weight source. [See following].
# About 1kg [2Lb] weight e.g., a large clean stone, or a large bottle or jar filled with water [If an appropriate wide enough jar is used, it can replace the follower called for above].
# One medium to large fresh organically grown cabbage with outer dark green leaves left intact.
# Optional ingredients One Japanese radish [Daikon], or a bunch of small red round or long radish. One medium size carrot. One medium head of broccoli and or cauliflower. 2 large mustard green leaves. A few young tender broad bean plant tips, including 1/2 cup fresh broad beans. 1 medium size beet root. 1 cup sprouted legumes or seeds e.g., mung bean, soybean, lentil, alfa-alfa, cress or any combination. 1 Tbs each of caraway, dill and or fennel seed. About 12 juniper berries.
# 2 Tbs milk kefir-grains or 4 Tbs water kefir-grains. Use fresh excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains.
# Liquid. Fresh water, preferably natural spring water that has been pre-boiled and cooled to room temperature. Or fresh vegetable or fruit juice or a mixture of both. [This is to cover the vegetables in the fermentation vessel. About 1 to 3 cups depending on quantity you're making and size of crock and amount of bruising done to the cabbage-more bruising less liquid required].
Method for Preparing Kefirkraut
Preparing the Ingredients
Remove large outer dark green leaves from the cabbage until clean, light-green leaves appear. Keep two of the outer dark-green leaves and wash well with fresh water. Cut whole cabbage in half and remove hard centre core with a sharp knife. Shred cabbage to about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick long strips.
Mortar and Pestle Method for Bruising Cabbage Pound a handful amount of shredded cabbage in a mortar with a pestle to bruise, until its own juice is released when a portion of bruised cabbage is squeezed in the hand. Pound small amounts at a time, placing each bruised portion in a large bowl, until all the cabbage has been processed.
Electric Food Processor Method for Bruising Cabbage Put an amount of shredded cabbage in electric food processor and process as low speed for a few seconds until bruised and a little juice is released from the cabbage. Do not over process otherwise you will be left with a mush. Put in a large bowl, and process another small amount like so, until all the cabbage is processed.
Wooden Dowel Method for Bruising Cabbage Fill fermenting vessel 1/3 with shredded cabbage. Pound the cabbage with wooden dowel until cabbage is well bruised and a little juice is released. Put bruised cabbage in a large bowl. Process the remainder of shredded cabbage as explained.
Optional veggies may be used whole, if no larger than about 2cm [1"] in thickness. Cut to size as required e.g., cut large daikon radish, carrots and whole beet root julienne style. Small round radishes may be included whole or cut in half or quarters. Broccoli/cauliflower heads need to be removed from the main stalk and separated into small individual flowerets. Small heads may be added whole or bruised by mortar and pestle or dowel method explained above. The same goes for sprouted seeds or legumes. Except for the kefir grains, mix all ingredients together in a large bowl.
Filling the Fermentation Vessel
Place 1/2 amount of kefir grains at the bottom of the container. Begin filling the container with vegetable ingredients. Press each layer down with a wooden dowel, or with a clenched fist until well compressed. Keep adding ingredients and compress until 1/2 the ingredients remain, and then evenly place the remaining kefir grains over the surface of the compressed ingredients.
Keep adding and compress more ingredients until 3/4 volume of fermenting vessel remains incompressible.
Place 1 or 2 washed outer whole cabbage leaves over top layer of compressed ingredients. Try to force the edges of the leaves down the sides of the container using a wooden spoon. This is to cage or seal the ingredients contained beneath.
Place a plate or wooden disk on top of the cabbage leaves, then place the weight on top of this. Note that if an appropriate wide enough weighting source is used, then there is no need to place a plate or wooden disk, for the jar or weight may be enough to hold down the ingredients so the ingredients do not escape and float during initial fermentation at room temperature.
If the ingredients are not completely submerged under juice, add enough water or fresh fruit such as apple or vegetable juice [or a mixture] until the plate is covered by about 2.5cm [1"] of liquid. However, if the ingredients were well bruised, there should be enough juice to cover the contents once the weight is put in place in step 5 above.
Place a plastic bag over the container to keep out air, dust and insects. The bag may be secured with string or with an elastic rubber band placed around the fermentation vessel.
Let the container sit undisturbed in a cupboard or in a root cellar. On day 3, check the surface of the liquid for signs of scum seen as froth or foam [or possibly kahm yeast] and remove this by skimming with a spoon. However, in most cases kahm yeast should not form when kefir grains are used as a starter-enhancer, for the expedient fermentation does not allow such yeasts to form.
The kefirkraut should be ready for cold storage at day 4 to day 5.
For the technical minded folks or tech-heads out there, readiness can be determined by testing for pH using litmus paper, or a digital pH meter [obtained from chemical suppliers, or Hydroponics agriculture suppliers]. The pH should be 4.5 to 4 [mildly acidic]. This is when the kefirkraut is ready for ripening under cold storage [refrigeration].
Experience suggests that during summer months kefirkraut is ready at day 4, and day 5 during winter.
Remove the weight and disk or plate. Seal the container with a lid, and then place the container of kefirkraut in the fridge. If the crock it too large to fit in the fridge, transfer the kefirkraut with all the liquid into suitable containers with good secure lids, and refrigerate. The ingredients should be submerged under liquid at all times. If the contents are not covered by liquid, add a little fresh water or fresh vegetable juice, adding enough to just cover the ingredients [not too much juice or water though, Dear Liza].
Kefirkraut should be ready for consumption after ripening in the fridge for 4 to 7 days. Although kefirkraut may be consumed from day one, ripening improves overall flavour, similar to the aging of wine. Ripening also increases some B group vitamins.
That's it! ... You've kefirkrautarized along with members of a minority group who do... that is until the culture-art is more widely spread, on sourdough rye, or essene bread.
Refrigerated salt less kefirkraut should store well for 3 to 4 months.
Troubleshooting and Other Notes
If the kefirkraut is soft or mushy, fermentation was too long or the temperature was too high during fermentation, or too much air was allowed during initial fermentation. I recommend to ferment for less time rather than over ferment. In any case, kefirkraut will continue to ripen in the refrigerator, even if the kefir grains have been removed. In most cases, optimal time and temperature for fermentation is 4 to 5 days at about 22°C [70°F]. ----nuc13.txt:An extremely small and inexpensive daily dose of the preferred non-radioactive potassium salt, potassium iodide (KI), if taken 1/2 hour to 1 day before exposure to radioactive iodine, will reduce later absorption of radioactive iodine by the thyroid to only about 1% of what the absorption would be without this preventive measure. Extensive experimentation and study have led to the Federal Drug Administration's approval of 130-milligram (130- mg) tablets for this preventive (prophylactic) use only.36,37 A 130-mg dose provides the same daily amount of iodine as does each tablet that English authorities for years have placed in the hands of the police near nuclear power plants, for distribution to the surrounding population in the very unlikely event of a major nuclear accident. It is quite likely that a similar-sized dose is in the Russian "individual, standard first-aid packet." According to a comprehensive Soviet 1969 civil defense handbook,38 this first-aid packet contains "anti-radiation tablets and anti-vomiting tablets (potassium iodide and etaperain)."1987 book: • Introduction to: Nuclear War Survival Skills..free online!----w1.txt:Thickos Guide To Distilling Alcohol - Introduction
Some time ago (about 1999), I set up a web site called thickos.co.uk. This seemed pretty popular at the time, and I have just reactivated it, and put a copy here as well, just in case! The main danger comes from methanol (methyl alcohol) remaining in the finished product. This is nasty stuff, and if ingested can cause severe headaches, blindness, or even death. The other alcohols produced (apart from ethyl alcohol, which is what we are after) are also bad for you. With care though, you can produce almost pure ethanol, which, when diluted with distilled water, is indistinguishable from the finest Vodka.Another health risk arises from the materials used in the manufacture of the still. For instance, if you cannot avoid soldered joints, then you must use a lead free solder. Ideally, all components of the still should be made from stainless steel. My own still was made from an old pressure cooker, with plastic and copper tubing, and stainless steel compression type fittings. I wouldn't advise anyone else to use an aluminium pressure cooker to make a still, but, at the time I decided it was OK for my purposes.------w2sxs.txt:put them on this page. Most of the other stuff on this web site relies on my below average memory, but this page provides a record of a brew from fermentation to drinking. Hopefully, someone out there will find this information useful.
First Steps
First a visit to the shop where I buy my beer making kits.
Me:- "Have you got some yeast that will give a high alcohol content?"
Shopkeeper:- "Try this one, with this yeast nutrient."
The yeast he gave me had the following text on the sachet:-
Gervin Wine Yeast..High Alcohol..S.cerevisiae..French Strain GV26
Particularly suitable for making high alcohol beverages(~ 21% if adequate nutrient present)
To Use: Add the contents of the sachet to about 50 ml of lukewarm water (~35 deg C) containing 1/2 tsp. of sugar. Leave for 15 minutes, stir well, then add to must.
Sufficient for: Up to 5 gallons of must.
Packed for: Gervin Supplies, 61 Church Road, Woodley, Reading, Berks, RG5 4PT....Tel: 0118-9691518
The labels on the two containers of yeast nutrient that I bought read as follows:..NEW MINAVIT..Gervin Yeast Nutrient..Contents: 55 grams
Best Before: 31.12.2000
Contains: a mixture of mineral salts, aminoacids and vitamins, including inositol, nicotinic acid, pyridoxine, thiamine, pantothenic acid, and biotin.
Typical Analysis: nitrogen 12%, phosphorous 20%, potassium 8%, magnesium 2.9%;(contains no urea)
Suggested Dose: 1-2 grams per gallon for wines, and 6 grams/litre for the production of high alcohol levels from sugar solutions.
Gervin Supplies, 61 Church Road, Woodley, Reading
Tel. 0118 969 1518
Brewing Up
Poured 1/2 a bottle of cheap household bleach into my 5 gallon bucket (N.B. I think I was using far too much bleach, nowadays I would make do with half a cupful), filled to the brim with cold water, stuffed the lid inside , and left it all standing for about 2 hours before rinsing well with cold water.
Put 5 Kg of sugar into the bucket, and kept on pouring boiling water onto it, while stirring continuously, until it was all dissolved. Topped up to the 5 gallon mark using a mixture of hot an cold water to get the temperature to exactly 25 deg C.
Sprinkled both 55 gram packs of yeast nutrient onto the surface of brew, while stirring well. This seemed like a lot of nutrient to me, but was slightly less than the recommended amount (see above).
Started off yeast as per instructions (see above), and added to brew.
Stirred well, checked temperature and hydrometer readings, and fitted the lid. Incidentally, I have since been told that it is more accurate to take your initial hydrometer reading BEFORE adding any yeast or nutrient. That doesn't really affect me though, as I only use a hydrometer to get a rough idea of how the fermentation is progressing.
Placed the brew into a small cupboard which, don't try this at home kids, I have rigged up with a 40 Watt light bulb as a heat source.
Waited for brew to ferment and clear, and took the following notes:-
Date ------ Time -- Hyd ---- Temp --- Notes
30/12/99 -- 2015 -- 1.090 -- 25 ----- Stirred well.
31/12/99 -- 0530 -- 1.092 -- 22 ----- Stirred well, rise in hydrometer reading due to temperature difference?
31/12/99 -- 1840 -- 1.082 -- 22 ----- Decided not to stir any more.
01/01/00 -- 1430 -- 1.051 -- 25 ----- No added heat, but temperature rise. Heat from fermentation?
02/01/00 -- 0800 -- 1.026 -- 25 -----
03/01/00 -- 0030 -- 1.012 -- 23 -----
03/01/00 -- 1000 -- 1.004 -- 23 -----
04/01/00 -- 0100 -- 0.997 -- 22 -----
04/01/00 -- 0930 -- <.995 -- 21 ----- Hydrometer reading just off scale.
05/01/00 -- 0130 ---- x ---- 20 -----
05/01/00 -- 1030 ---- x ---- 19 ----- Heater (40 Watt light bulb) switched on.
05/01/00 -- 1530 ---- x ---- 22 ----- Still fermenting.
06/01/00 -- 0800 ---- x ---- 28 ----- Heater switched off, still fermenting.
06/01/00 -- 1600 ---- x ---- 24 ----- Still a few bubbles.
07/01/00 -- 0600 ---- x ---- 20 ----- Fermentation appears to have stopped.
08/01/00 -- 1945 ---- x ----- x ----- Starting to clear
11/01/00 -- 2230 ---- x ----- x ----- Start to run through Still.
Don't forget that in England we write the date properly - DD/MM/YY
My New Still
The pot for my new still didn't cost me a penny, I simply made a slight modification to my wallpaper steam stripper. If you live in England you can pick one up quite cheaply at Argos or B&Q etc.
All I did was cut the hose in half so I could fit it to my condenser. There are actually two plastic pipes, one inside the other, this stops the outside of the hose from getting hot.
Fortunately, the inner pipe was just a nice fit inside the input of my condenser, where I secured it with insulating tape, and the outer pipe fitted nicely around the outside of the condenser input, held in place with insulating tape.
There are different makes of wallpaper stripper, but they all seem to have a 2 Kw element. Unfortunately I haven't got any way of controlling the power output yet, but I still got what I consider to be a reasonable yield of a very palatable, fairly pure drink.
My New Condenser
I stole the idea from the plans for a reflux still found on the internet. There is a copy of the plans on this web site,in a pdf format book, click here to download it. The author gives his permission for anyone to use/modify any of his plans, and to distribute his book freely. It looks like an interesting design. If anyone tries building it, let me know how it performs.
There wasn't really anything wrong with the first coil I made, I just wanted to try something different, and this new one was cheap and easy to make. The diagram below took me longer to make than the real thing.
The coil I made previously had a 10mm dia. bore. This new condenser has a 15mm dia bore. I thought that this larger diameter, and the fact that it is straight rather than coiled, might give a larger throughput, the only danger being that some vapour might travel straight through without condensing and be lost to the atmosphere, but I don't think this was a problem.
Water is supplied via a piece of old hosepipe which is just a nice fit over the 10mm copper tube input.
The Distillation - First Run
2220 Siphon first gallon of brew into still. Connect Pot to Condenser,
holding hose up with a piece of string in the middle, fastened to a nail
in the wall.
2230 Switched on still, and water supply. Noise from heating element
virtually straight away
2237 Outside of still starting to get hot.
2240Not as noisy. Smell like meth's at output, but no liquid appearing.
2241Boiling vigorously. Steady stream of distillate. Threw the first half
cupful away, as it smelled like meth's.
2244Quarter of a pint collected so far. Looks quite clear.
2245Seems to have slowed down, but still a steady stream of clear liquid.
2247Three quarters of a pint collected.
2248Increased water flow, as outside of condenser starting to warm up.
2249One pint collected.2250Seems to have slowed down again, but still a steady stream of of clear
liquid.2251 Turning cloudy. Switched still off.
After this first run on the first gallon of brew, I ended up with a full pint of clear, not bad tasting, distillate. To avoid mixing the cloudy stuff, at the end of the run, with the clear stuff, I was colecting a small amount in a glass, then swapping for a fresh glass, and transferring contents to a bottle.
I thought of collecting some of the tails (cloudy stuff) and adding them back to the next run, but decided that quality is better than quantity.
Distillate from first run burns with a clear blue flame, but, when burnt out, leaves quite a lot of water (etc?) on spoon.
Second Run
Half filled still with water from tap, swithced off water supply to condenser, and ran some steam through it to clean out. Switched water supply back on, and let some distilled water run through still to wash it out.
Poured two and three quarter pints of bottled water into the Still, and added the five pints of distillate collected from first run.
Discarded first half pint of liquid. Kept tasting a drop (literally), and burning half a spoonful (very little residue after burnt out. Stopped collecting at approx. four pints of very clear liqiid.
I was going to do a third run, but didn't finish second run until half past one in the morning, so settled for two runs.
The Finished Product
Diluted my four pints of 'alcohol' with an equal amount of bottled water ("Abbey Well Spring Water"), and ended up with eight pints of what tastes like a very acceptable Vodka.
It is clear, nice to drink, and does not give me a hangover. on this basis, I am not worried that I am poisoning myself. If you think I should have any concerns, then PLEASE let me know.
Manyt of you probably know more about distilling than I do, why not write something, and put it on a web site for us to share.
Buy or Sell Home Brew Equipment on
eBay----w3thry.txt:The Distillation Process
Theory
Ethanol or ethyl alcohol (CH3CH2OH), is a clear colourless liquid with a boiling point of 78.4 degees centigrade. One hundred percent pure alcohol can not be produced by distillation, the maximum achievable strength being ninety six percent alcohol in four percent water
The reason it is possible to distill almost pure ethanol from the rest of the brew you have made , is that all of the components of your brew have different boiling temperstures.Anything with a lower boiling point than ethanol is called the Heads, and, for our puposes, is methanol (methyl alcohol), which is highly toxic when drunk, and MUST be removed from your moonshine.Anything with a boiling point higher than ethanol is called the tails. The tails consist mainly of water, but also contain some undesirable alcohols and other impurities.
So, basically, you have to remove and discard the methanol, which is a very important step, collect and save the ethanol, and discard everything which is left, ie the bulk of your brew.
Boiling Points (Degrees Centigrade)
Methanol ---------------- 64.7 Ethanol ------------------ 78.4
2-Propanol -------------- 82.4 3-Methyl-1-Butanol ----- 99.5
Water ------------------ 100 Butan-1-ol ------------- 117
Pentan-1-ol ------------ 138 Hexan-1-ol ------------ 157
Incidentally, if you live in the USA, then to find out how many degrees proof a spirit is you simply multiply the percentage alcohol by volume figure by two. If you live here, in the United Kingdom, degrees proof is considered to be the percentage alcohol by volume figure multiplied by 1.751. So 100% pure alcohol is 200 degrees proof in the USA, but only 175 degrees proof in the UK. This means, for instance, that a 70 degrees proof bottle of Scotch Whisky is exactly the same strength as an 80 degrees proof bottle of Bourbon.
Distillation:When I first made my still I fitted it with a thermometer in the lid to guage the temperature of the vapours. I also fitted a second thermometer to check the temperature of the liquid brew, but accidently broke it before I tried using it. In practice I found that there is no real use for a thermometer, except for something to watch while your brew heats up, and to provide reassurance.
You cannot expect to get a pure product from a pot still with just one run, but I would suggest that if you do three careful runs then you will end up with something with no more impurities than a commercial product.
OK, fill your pot with some of your brew and stand it on your heat source, put on the lid and connect to your (suitably cooled) coil. Now start to heat the pot up, I use one of the rings of my electric cooker on full power. If you us a gas cooker, or any other naked flame, then be very careful as any vapours escaping from the still will be highly flammable, ie you could blow up your kitchen.
As the brew heats up, you should eventually start to see some liquid start to dribble from the outlet of the coil. This is the methanol, it should smell like methylated spirits, and you should pour it down the drain, or put it in a bottle clearly labelled POISON.
After a while the driblle from the coil will have turned into a steady stream of liquid, and if you are using a thermometer you will be able to see that the temperature of the vapour has risen to around 78.4 degrees centigrade, the boiling point of ethanol, which is what the still is now producing.
Keep collecting the distillate until the steady stream ends, then remove your pot from the heat source, and dispose of the remainder of the brew.
Repeat the above process with the rest of your brew. If you started off with five gallons of reasonably strong brew then you might end up with over half a gallon or more of distillate. Mix this with a litre of water and run through your still, once again discarding the Tops and Tails. Finally add another litre of water to what you have collected, and run through your still a third time.
Fill a teaspoon with your finished product and put a match to it. It should burn with a clean blue flame.
I would suggest that you dilute the finished product 50-50 with distilled water for a very palatable, strong Vodka.
eBay---w4eq.txt:The Distillation Equipment
There are basically two types of still which can be used for the home distillation of alcohol. These are the Pot Still, and the Reflux Still. I opted for a Pot Still because they are simpler to make and operate. I may have go at making a reflux still as a future project. I will shortly be building and testing a second pot still which has quite an interesting design, so, watch this space.
The Pot Still is comprised of two basic components, the Pot and the Condenser. The Pot is simply a container in which the brew is heated, and the condenser is a device which converts the vapours, coming from the pot, into a liquid.
I made the pot out of an old aluminium pressure cooker, which had lain unused at the bottom of a cupboard for a long time. Ideally, you should try to obtain a stainless steel vessel of at least one gallon capacity, and with a tight fitting lid (unlike my pressure cooker. )
The most interesting part of the still to make is the condenser. First you need a 3 metre length of 10 mm copper tubing (15 mm diameter tubing would probably be more efficient, but is much more difficult to bend)
Once you have your copper tube, you need something to wind it around to form a coil. If you are using 10mm tube, then something about 3-4 inches diameter should be OK. For 15mm diameter tube, look for something larger, say 6 inches diameter (this will of course mean fewer turns in your coil, about 6 loops instead of 10-12). If you cannot find something of a suitable diameter, then, get an old broom shank and wrap it tightly with old newspapers and adhesive tape until it is the size you want.
Get your copper tube and plug one end of it, you can hammer the last half inch flat if you want, and saw it off when you have finished. Get a large packet of ordinary salt, and fill the tube with it (a small funnel will be very useful here), packing as much in as you can by tapping the bottom of the tub gently on the floor. When full, seal the other end of the tube. The purpose of the salt is to prevent the tube from collapsing when it is bent.
Now you simply bend the tube around your former (broom shank). This can be hard work, as a copper tube, packed with salt, is quite difficult to bend. The easiest way is to put a loop in the centre of the tube first, rather than one of the ends, and then fasten in place with tape before forming the other loops. Leave a straight bit of tube (about 3 inches) at each end of the coil.
When the coil is the required shape, unplug (or saw off) the ends, and empty the salt out. It takes a lot longer to empty salt from a coiled tube than to fill a straight one, but you must make sure that all the salt is removed.
Now that you have a coil you need some means of keeping it cool, because the cooler the coil, the more efficient the condenser. You could make some sort of jacket to fit the coil inside, and run cold tap water through it, but I prefer to keep things simple. Get an old bucket and drill a hole in the side, so that when the bottom end of your coil is passed through the hole the top end is about an inch below the top of the bucket. Fit you coil inside, with the bottom end of the tube poking out of the hole by at least an inch, and then seal around the tube, inside and out, with silicone sealant (or anything else that will give you a waterproof joint. Your condenser is now complete.
To make your pot you have to find a way of making an outlet in the lid for the vapours from your brew. I fitted two pieces of 10mm copper tubing (one for an outlet, and one to house a thermometer to check the temperature of the vapours near the top of the Pot) into the lid of my Pot (pressure cooker), using some old compression fittings I had lying around, and sealed the leaks I found with some epoxy resin I 'borrowed' from work. You can use any method your imagination comes up with to do the same, but don't be too worried about the thermometer, you can do without it, and if I was making another still I would not bother fitting one.
Finally, you need a length of plastic tubing, about a metre long, to connect the outlet on your Pot to the top of the coil in your Condenser.
Buy or Sell Home Brew Equipment on
eBay---w5pro.txt:The Fermentation Process
Sterilization
The first job is to sterilize your fermentation vessel, and any utensils you are using. You can go along to your local Home Brew Supplies shop if you like, and buy some (expensive) sterilizing tablets, I prefer to use the cheapest bottle of household bleach that I can find.
If you buy the tablets , then just follow the supplied instructions. If you save money and buy the bleach, then add about half the bottle to your fermenting bin and top up with cold water. Put the other items (thermometer, spoon, hydrometer etc.) into the bleach solution, and try to squeeze the lid in there too.
Leave to soak for a couple of hours, and then RINSE VERY THOROUGHLY with cold water. This is very important. although excellent for killing germs, household bleach is pretty toxic stuff, so you don't want to leave any traces of it on your equipment.
The Recipe
My particular form of 'moonshine' is distilled from a simple brew of water, yeast, sugar and yeast nutrient, which gives me a finished product which is indistinguishable, when appropriately diluted,from commercially made vodka. However it is also a good starting point for making other drinks with the use of flavourings.
My fermentation bin holds 5 imperial gallons, which is equivalent to just under 23 litres. For this quantity of brew I use 5 kg of sugar. For the yeast, just go to your local home brewing supplies shop and look for a yeast which claims to give a high alcohol content. While you are there get yourself some yeast nutrient
Empty all of the sugar into your bucket, and cover with boiling water, stirring well. Keep on stirring, and adding more hot water, until ALL of the sugar is dissolved. Top up with hot/cold water, until the 5 gallon mark is reached and the solution is lukewarm, somewhere between 20 and 25 degrees centigrade.
Now add the yeast and the yeast nutrient, as per the instructions on the pack (these will vary slightly for different products), stir well and fit the lid.
The final step is to place the brew somewhere warm, i.e. 20 - 25 degrees centigrade, and wait until fermentation is complete in a week or twos time. I like to give the brew a good stir once a day and add a little more yeast nutrient.
When fermentation is ceased (no more bubbles rising to the top, and, if you are using an hydrometer, a reading which is approaching 1.005) you should have a five gallon brew of (say) fifteen percent alcohol. All you have to do now is recover as much of this alcohol as you can with the aid of your still -----w6eq.txt:The Fermentation Equipment
If you brew your own beer, as I do, then you already have the necessary equipment for the fermentation process. Basically all you need is a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, mine also has a tap fitted near to the bottom.
There are a few other things which you will find useful, but can do without:-
A Thermometer.An hydrometer. This will help you determine when your brew has reached the desired strength of distillation.A large wooden spoon to stir the brew with. I use whatever comes to hand (even if it IS my hand).A siphon tube, if your bucket has not got a tap.
Some sort of heat source to maintain the temperature of the brew between about 70 and 85 degrees fahrenheit (roughly 20-30 degrees Centigrade). There are several types available from home brew shops, such as heated rubber mats or belts. I just keep my fermentation bin in an old cupboard, using a light bulb as a heat source if necessary....----wine.txt: Fermentation Process - How to Make Homemade Wine
Fermentation Process - How to Make Wine From Home
> Many people who are learning how to make homemade wine are learning that the most important concept of making wine is the fermentation process. When making wine you need to know what fermentation is. Fermentation is the process in which yeast converts the sugar in fruit into carbon dioxide and alcohol, the CO2 then escapes into the air creating the finished product, the wine.
Getting Started with the Fermentation Process
The first step in how to make homemade wine from home is to choose a particular recipe that you are interested in, for new winemakers it is important to choose a recipe with the least amount of ingredients and one that involves very easy processes. When you are comfortable with all of the fermenting steps you can then experiment with more involved recipes and a larger variety of fruits.
The ingredients may vary in the different recipes, for new wine makers the best ingredients are juice (fruit or fruit juice concentrate), yeast, Campden Tablets, yeast nutrient, pectin enzyme, acid blend, and wine tannin. You will be able to use more ingredients as you get more familiar with how they react to each other and your wine during fermentation.
Basic Equipment for Fermentation
Before you begin making your recipe, you need to have readily available all of the ingredients and equipment. You should have at least the basic equipment available such as a bucket (for primary fermentation) for the fermenting, a carboy, an airlock for sealing the fermentation, a hose or tub to siphon the juice, a hydrometer to check out the sugar content, clean and sterilized utensils for stirring, a straining bag or women’s nylons for racking and bottles for the end product.
The Fermentation Process: How to make Homemade Wine
Wine fermentation has two major stages, the primary stage which is know as the aerobic, and the secondary stage which is the anaerobic stage of fermentation.
Primary Fermentation
Primary fermentation can last anywhere between 4 and 7 days, with at least 70% of all of the activity of fermentation performed during this period. You will notice a great deal of foaming during this period of rapid fermentation. During this time the fermentation vessel is usually opened to the air, because yeast cells need air to grow and multiply. Without air this process will be hindered and your wine will be ruined, that is why during the first few days you will begin fermentation without the use of an airlock. Some alcohol is produced during this time but it is mostly dedicated to the allowing the yeast to reproduce.
Secondary Fermentation
When learning how to make homemade wine from home secondary fermentation is the anaerobic stage of fermentation, because you will use an airlock to keep the air out. This process is much slower than primary fermentation, only 30 % of all of the fermentation activity occurs during this stage. This stage can take anywhere between 2 or 3 weeks depending on how much of how much sugar is still available. The activities of the fermentation will diminish on a daily basis. This is due to the reduction in air during the process that causes the yeast to stop multiplying and using its energies to make the alcohol.
Important Consideration for fermentation
Temperature is very important in the fermentation process, because if the temperature is too cool the yeast may not multiply enough to ferment, it will just stay in the juice doing nothing. If the temperature is too warm, the yeast may replicate but the taste of the wine may suffer due to increased production of some unwanted forms of enzymes and growth of micro organisms, too much warmth may also kill the yeast further hindering alcohol production. The perfect temperature for fermentation is 72 degrees F, but a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees will do just fine.
During the fermentation process you will need to transfer the wine to a clean container leaving behind the sediment that has fallen to the bottom of the container, this process is known as racking. Racking needs to be done when primary fermentation ends or when the specific gravity is about 1.030 on your hydrometer. You will need to rack again after the second fermentation, and once more just before bottling.
Yeast needs sugar to produce the alcohol needed to make the alcohol your wine needs. If your concentration of sugar is to high it will stop being a food source for yeast, and it inhibits its ability to produce alcohol. In some cases you do not need to add sugar, but if the sugar level is too low, you may need to add sugar. The ultimate alcohol level is 10% to 13%. Many fruits such as berries need considerable amounts of sugar to reach the same amount of alcohol.
You may wish to add yeast nutrients to your mix, these nutrients will help the yeast reproduce more and produce more alcohol, it comes in a powdered forma and you can just mix some in a small portion of your must and return it to the fermenting must.
After fermentation activity has ended you will need to give the wine time to clear before bottling so you will need to leave it in to sit for at least 2 to 4 more weeks till the wine is clear.
It is important to remember that fermentation is the most important process of all of the activities that must occur when learning how to make homemade wine. It is the process that turns your fruit into the tasty wines. It is important to take your time and do everything correctly so that you get the best results imaginable for your wine. Also remember that during the fermentation process to maintain sanitary conditions because bacteria will harm the quality of your wines. If you follow all of these directions you will have great wines that your family and friends will rave about. More free information on fermentation is available at this site under Fermentation & Process Tips and our FAQ.
We recommend you read the next article on wine clarification next.
----win2.txt 10reasons for wine-failure:www.circlebio.com
Homemade Ethanol
Learn How You Can Build a Still and Make Your Own Ethanol.
www.Ethanoloholic.comWhen you are learning how to make homemade wine, one very important thing you will want to avoid is fermentation failure. It is important to recognize the many causes of failure, so that you are able to avoid them before they ruin your wine. This list will show you why you are experiencing slow or non-consistent fermentation of your wine products.
1. Your Fermentation temperature may be too hot or too cold. The yeast in your liquid is better suited for its job if the temperature is between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, with approximately 72 degrees being the ideal temperature. If the fermentation is too cool it may become sluggish and ferment very slowly or it may not ferment at all. Fermentations that are too warm may allow microorganisms to grow in your wine causing it to have a bad flavor or may even cause the wine to be spoiled. In order to combat this problem you may want to buy a floating thermometer and put it into your fermentation vessel, that way you can watch it and be sure that you are maintaining the proper temperature for your wine.
2. Another reason for fermentation failure is adding to much sugar. Yeast needs sugar to produce the alcohol that you will need to make your wine, but sometime you may add too much causing adverse affects that you do not want when you are making your wine. When your sugar level is too high, the sugar will stop being a food source for your yeast and instead will prevent the ability of the yeast to produce the alcohol needed to make wine. Before you add any sugar you will want to know just how much sugar your fruit already has. Keeping in mind that the sugar level may be different in one fruit than it is in another. Some grapes need no additional sugar in order to make the 10% to 13% needed to make a good amount of alcohol. However in the instance of berry wines you may need to add a significant amount of sugar in order to get to the acceptable levels. It is recommended that you use a hydrometer to help you control the level of sugar you have in your must. It will tell you how much sugar you currently have as well as how much you sill need in order to reach the desirable level of alcohol.
3. The next reason for the failure of your fermentation is improper yeast starting methods. You will find that some packets of yeast will tell you to hydrate your yeast in warm water for a few minute before adding it to your must. The only problem with this is that some winemakers will use water that is too warm or they may leave it in the water too long. Some of the yeast packets will tell you to make the temperature of the water between 95 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit; however it is much better to use 90 degrees instead, because at the recommended temperature for every minute you leave the yeast in the water some of the yeast cells will die. If the water is even a little bit warmer, say 110 to 115 Fahrenheit, you will find that your yeast cells are dying even faster. This means that if your water is too hot or you leave it in the water to long, your cell count will be to low to support good fermentation.
4. Another reason for fermentation failure is sealing up your fermenter to quickly after you add the sulfites. Many wine making recipes call for you to use sulfites such a Campden tablets, you will be instructed to add them to your juice at least 24 hours before you add any yeast in order to sterilize your juices. The sulfites are used to destroy unwanted contaminates including molds and wild yeasts. The process usually takes about 18 to 24 hours of allowing sulfite gases to dissipate in to the air. After the 24 hour period you can then add your wine yeast. However, if your wine is sealed or air locked, the sulfite gases will not be released into the air, and when the yeast is added, it is most likely to be destroyed.
5. Using an airlock during the primary fermentation phase is another reason for failing in the fermentation process. In the primary fermentation stage, during the first few days, yeast uses most of its energy reproducing. The yeast will need to multiply itself to over 100 times the amount of yeast you put into the must. In order for this to occur the yeast must have air. If you use an airlock, it will keep the air out, depriving yeast of the much needed air and slowing down the reproduction. Instead of using the airlock, you should use a thin towel, or a cheese cloth. This allows air to get in and keeps out unwanted germs and bugs that could invade your must.
6. The next problem that could affect fermentation is a lack of much needed nutrients. Having the right amount of nutrients is very important to the success of the fermentation process. Without these nutrients, your yeast may have a problem performing as they should. This may because the fermentation process to be slow and sometimes even cause it to stop before it can complete its mission. When you are making wine from juices, you will be able to easily meet the nutritional needs of the yeast by simply adding yeast nutrients to the must.
7. Another interesting but sometimes unbelievable phenomenon is that your fermentation is already done. In most wine making recipes you were told that fermentation takes as much as six weeks to complete. However, in reality, the process can be done in about 7 days. Many new wine makers will think something is wrong and may add sugar thinking they need to restart the fermentation; however time does not govern the amount of alcohol that is made. The best way to tell if your fermentation was done correctly is to use the proper wine making equipment such as a hydrometer to test your levels and if the answer is 0.998 or less on the Specific Gravity Scale, it means that fermentation has been successful.
8. Another problem that may occur is that the yeast has reached its limits, many times musts that are in the beginning stages of fermentation, have problems when the yeast reaches it limits. As alcohol levels rise, you will notice that the process slows down. It does this because alcohol is a preservative (something that helps something perishable stay in the state it is in) which means that alcohol may very well be the reason that the wine is no longer fermenting, Another thing is fermentation may shut down no matter how much sugar is still in your must. It is very possible to still have quite a bit of sugar that could render you wine undrinkable. You will need to use your hydrometer to find out how much sugar is needed to produce the 12% to 13% of alcohol content that your wine needs.
9. Another fermentation hindrance may be the use of distilled water, using distilled water can cause you to have problems for 2 reasons. First distilled water has had all of the excess oxygen removed from it, and the second is that there are no minerals present in distilled water. Both conditions have a way of slowing down the fermentation process. While it is okay to use bottled water, distilled water can be a hindrance to the fermentation of your wine. During the fermentation process, the yeast will need all of the oxygen it can get to reproduce itself. If the yeast doesn't get an adequate amount of oxygen, the fermentation of the wine may be slow and take additional time to complete the process. Having no minerals causes adverse effects in the fermentation as well. Minerals play an important part in providing the much needed nutritional requirement to the yeast and giving it the boost it needs to consume the sugar and make enough alcohol for great wines. If you are going to use bottled water be sure they say spring water or mineral water before purchasing them.
10. Sometimes you may find that your wine is not fermenting at a normal rate, it is either very slow or not fermenting at all. This problem comes from the fact that the yeast is too old. Another thing to remember is that a portion of the yeast cells die every day depending on the temperature where they are kept. At 80 degrees Fahrenheit your yeast will die very quickly, at room temperature it may die within a year, refrigerated yeast lasts about 2 years. Also know that yeast will not be usable forever and could be one of the reasons for your fermentation process not starting properly.
When learning how to make homemade wine you will want to learn everything there is to know about the process, but most importantly you will want to know what can affect the quality of your wine, because it makes the difference between good wines and great wines.
-end-
"Support bacteria - they're the only culture some people have."
-Stephen Wright
"Oh Lord annointed with the yogurt of the milk-maids worship (Krishna), Oh savior of the fallen, Oh Master of Shiva, please protect me." -Sanscrit Poem
Fermenting is Fun
Fermenting your own foods can be a healthy, fun, and nutritious hobby. We feel that anything you can make at home is much better than commercialized foods. We have put together a summary of fermented foods followed by a few recipes. Enjoy.
The Power of Microbes:
We live in a world dominated by microbes. The Earth’s microorganisms are able to adapt to almost any environment and thrive. Bacteria have been found in the icy regions of Antarctica, near the surface of volcanic vents in the Atlantic, and even in our digestive tracts. Our civilization is but a pale comparison to the invisible world of microbes that surrounds us. It is likely that these microbes will adapt and survive beyond human existence.
It is not surprising that microbes have become experts of adaptation when you consider the evolutionary pressures of their world. They are constantly disrupted by changes in environment, competition from other species, attacks from specialized viruses (i.e. bacteriophages), and a shifting food supply. Imagine trying to survive in a world filled with rampant diseases, famines, hurricanes, and floods, and you’ll begin to appreciate the world of the microbe.
Some microbes have colluded with the competition to form symbiotic relationships. For example, the bacterial strains Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacilllus bulgaricus, work together and transform milk into tasty yogurt. The thirty or so strains of bacteria and yeast found in Kefir, a traditional fermented drink of the Caucasians, band together to form complex ecology capable of digesting almost any food source and staving off harmful pathogens. The microbes of Kefir even provide themselves with homes in the form of Kefir grains that are composed of a polysaccharide matrix.
Our ancient ancestors did not live in a sterile environment. It is likely that they ingested various microbes found naturally in their foods. Some of these microbes were beneficial to their life while others caused infections and disease. Somewhere along the way in their struggle for survival, our ancestors allied themselves with certain species of microbes. Our intestines have evolved into a perfect microbial farm. We provide these microbes with furnished home and plenty of food, in return, they produce beneficial nutrients and help defend us from pathogens. About a thousand years ago, our ancestors began to experimenting with fermenting their own foods with beneficial strains to prevent spoilage, fight infections, and increase absorption of nutrients. This action further allied our bodies with the microbial world.
Benefits of Fermented Foods:
Nobel Prize winner Dr. Elie Metchnikoff was one of the first scientists to recognize the benefits of eating fermented foods. His research in the early 1900’s focused on the Bulgarians. He believed the daily ingestion of yogurt was a major contribution to their superior health and longevity. Today, if you search the Internet on probiotics, you will find an almost endless supply of reasons why “good bacteria” are good for you. We hope to convince you that fermenting your own foods is cheaper, more fun, and better for you than just popping a pill of freeze dried bacteria.
Detoxify and Preserve:
If there’s anything that the microbial world does well, it is detoxifying things. Today, Bacteriologists periodically visit old military facilities in search of new strains of bacteria living off of contaminants in the soil. If you put it in the ground and give them enough time to mutate and evolve, these microbes will find a way to break it down. This probably holds true for any organic chemical. These earthly microbes purify the world.
Not only have we been able to use the detoxifying properties of microbes to breakdown nasty substances, such as oil spills, military dumps, and sewer plants, we also use them to detoxify our food and water and increase shelf lives. For centuries, Europeans used wine as a source of clean, durable water. Bulgarians perfected the art of detoxifying and preserving milk (removing the lactose and predigesting the proteins) and transforming it into yogurt and cheese. The Caucasians used Kefir grains for the same purpose: detoxify milk products to make Kefir. Vegetables were also fermented to preserve them from spoilage. Most of the pickled products found on our grocery shelves were at one time a fermented product: pickles, saurkraut, and even catsup (a Chinese word for pickled fish brine). However, since fermentation isn’t always a uniform process, manufacturers found another way to make these products.
Fight Off Infections:
Competition between microbes can be fierce. The good bacteria that are normal inhabitants of our intestinal tracts will fight off many foreign intruders. They can be seen as our first line of defense in the war of infection. Scientists have documented many different substances produced by lactobacilli (lactic acid bacteria) that have been found to inhibit harmful microorganisms. For example, lactobacillus acidophilus produces several substances while fermenting milk, including acidolin, acidophillin, lactobacillan, and lactocidin. These substances have been shown to inhibit pathogenic bacteria, such as Salmonella, while leaving other lactobacilli and human cells unharmed These antibiotic agents are found in fermented milk, but not always in a probiotic pill. A 2000 study led by Dr. Chitra N. Wendakoon of the University of Alberta, Edmonton, found that fermented milk products, like yogurt, can kill Helicobacter pylori (the ulcer causing bacteria) but that the beneficial bacteria alone cannot. This means that probiotics in pill form would have no effect on H. pylori but that homemade yogurt and Kefir would.
Nutritious to Boot:
Fermented products are a great source of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. The process of fermentation increases the amounts of some vitamins. Fermented milk is a great source of energetic B vitamins while fermented vegetables are a great source of Vitamin C. Sauerkraut often served as military rations in ancient armies, most notably the Mongolians, and was used to prevent scurvy. The process of fermentation also increases the bioavailability of these foods.
Harnessing the Power of Microbes:
Pills versus Food:
We have already mentioned earlier that dairy products fermented with lactobacilli have been shown to kill pathogenic bacteria, such as H. pylori, while the lactobacilli alone did not. This means that some of the antibiotic properties of these good bacteria may be missing in the probiotic pills you see on the shelves. Also, you have no way of verifying the potency or vitality of these products. Bacteria are living organisms and must be alive when you eat them in order to reap their benefits. It does no good to ingest dead, good bacteria. Furthermore, good quality probiotics are often very expensive. For instance, a month’s supply from a popular vendor may cost as much as $80 to $100 per month. With a budget of $100 per month, you can make all the sauerkraut, kefir, and yogurt you’ll need. Not only will you be getting the benefits of these beneficial bacteria, you will be making delicious and healthy meals as well. The only benefit store probiotics offer is convenience. However, once you get started, fermenting your own foods is very easy.
Please Use Caution:
Before we get too far into fermenting your own foods, we want to emphasize two caveats of fermentation. First, the process of fermentation is only good for you if it occurs outside of your body. What does this mean? It means that if you ingest foods that provide an abundance of sugar and growth media for bacteria, they will ferment those foods inside of you. An overgrowth of fermentative bacteria in your body can cause all kinds of medical problems, including Crohn’s Disease, Ankylosing Spondylitis, candidiasis , and Irritable Bowel Syndrome. So the key is to pre-ferment your foods, that is to say, ferment your milk before you eat it.
Secondly, please do not eat spoiled fermented foods. In some rare instances, fermented foods can be overtaken by mold or become spoiled. In these cases, throw out the result and start anew.
Commercial versus Homemade:
In our opinion homemade products are better all around. For one, you do not have to trust a manufacturer with your health. You have total control over what you are eating. You can purchase the best milk and/or vegetables to use. Commercial products are usually geared for taste and not health. In the case of yogurt, this means that commercial yogurt usually has a high lactose content and is usually loaded with sugar. Homemade yogurt can be made to eliminate virtually all of the lactose and will be much fresher than anything you can buy in a store. If the taste isn’t to your liking, you can add in fresh fruit and/or honey to sweeten it up. Store bought Kefir has the same problems, you have no control over the lactose content in the end product. Another thing to consider is, real Kefir is difficult to find in the store. Quite often a manufacturer will label a product as Kefir when in fact it is not the real thing. In order for Kefir to be real, it needs to made from Kefir grains and not a powdered starter. As for fermented vegetables, such as sauerkraut, most commercial products have been pasteurized and do not contain live cultures. The pasteurization process not only kills the beneficial bacteria, but may also destroy many of the enzymes and nutrients. Commercial sauerkraut may also contain a fair amount of unnatural preservatives. We know that you will find fermenting your own foods at home more rewarding, healthier, cheaper than probiotics, and more enjoying than anything you could purchase in the store.
Getting Started
So you want to start fermenting your own foods, eh? Glad we could convince you. To get you started we’ve listed a few easy at home products you can make.
1. Yogurt:
Making yogurt is very easy, especially if you own a yogurt maker. We recommend purchasing a Yogourmet Multi – they are cheap, easy to use, and can make 2 quarts per batch. You can get a yogurt maker and yogurt starter from a trusted friend at Lucy’s Kitchen Shop. Once you have a starter and a yogurt maker, all you need is some milk (we recommend using Half-n-Half) and some patience. The directions that come with the maker provide a fermentation of 6 hours. However, we recommend you ferment your yogurt for 24 hours to eliminate all lactose in the yogurt. Any residual lactose could be used as food for bacteria already found in your GI-tract and result in fermentation in your intestines. CAUTION: Those of you following the SC Diet MUST ferment your yogurt for 24 hours in order to stay on the diet. Please refer to page 131 of “Breaking the Vicious Cycle” for more instructions on making SCD legal yogurt.
2. Kefir:
Kefir is a fermented milk product made from Kefir grains. Unlike yogurt, Kefir is made from lactobacillus bacteria and several different yeast organisms and is fermented at room temperature. The most difficult step in making Kefir is getting someone to sell/give you some Kefir grains. It would be impossible for us to give Kefir any justice when there is a website out there that will describe everything and anything you need to know about Kefir. The web site is called Dom’s Kefir In-site. Dom also sponsors an egroups list you can join to find someone to share Kefir grains with you and to answer any question you may have about Kefir. For those of you on the SC Diet, here are some directions from the wise Dominic about eliminating the lactose in the Kefir:
“I find a good way to eliminate lactose even further is to ferment the kefir per usual (24 hours), strain, then keep the strained kefir in a bottle (at room temperature) for a further 2 -3 days before consuming (ongoing fermentation). I don't keep my strained kefir in the fridge any more, but keep it like this in a cupboard. The kefir is still good even after 6-7 days. One must give the bottle which the kefir is continuously fermenting in, a shake at least once daily. This is so that the microbes (mainly the yeasts) are mixed in well. Other wise one may find a film or colonies of yeast or the acetic acid forming bacteria on top of the kefir. This is safe, but some lactose digesting yeasts may be flourishing mainly in this top layer, shaking will help to distribute them into the kefir, where you want them to do their work (breaking down lactose). This continuous fermentation can also be done in the fridge, but I find that a more pleasant tasting kefir, with markedly reduced lactose is achieved this way, (at room temp.). One can also keep fermenting the kefir, like above, in an air tight bottle. After the second day or so, an effervescent kefir will be produced. But i must point out that the bottle must not be filled more that 3/4 full. Of course, one could also ferment the original kefir for 48 hours, then follow on with the suggestions above. This may further make sure that the lactose content would be eliminated to a greater extent, and possibly in a smaller amount of time.”
3. Sauerkraut:
Sauerkraut can be made in several different ways. The traditional recipe involves shredding and pounding fresh cabbage, adding salt, and submerging it under water for several days. The natural bacteria in the cabbage, such as lactobacillus plantarum, will natural begin to ferment the cabbage while the salt inhibits other microbes. You can eliminate the use of salt altogether by innoculating the shredded cabbage and water solution with yogurt starter or Kefir grains. A superior recipe can be found on Aquaman’s Website. A traditional recipe follows:
Ingredients:
1 Fresh Medium Cabbage (red or green)
2 Tablespoons Pickling Salt (Please no iodine, it will kill the bacteria)
Distilled Water (or filtered and non-chlorinated)
Shred the cabbage. In a large bowl, mix shredded cabbage and salt together. Pound the cabbage mixture to expel the juices. Place pounded cabbage and juices in a medium sized glass jar (1 Quart Sized). Press down firmly on the cabbage. Add distilled water until cabbage is fully submerged. Solution should be at least one inch from the top of the jar. Cover the jar and let sit for 3 to 7 days at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator. Alternatively, one can use Kefir grains to ferment the cabbage, just eliminate the use of salt.
4. Pickled Ginger:
Ingredients:
4 lbs fresh ginger root
1 tablespoon pickling salt (no iodine)
½ package of yogurt starter
1 cup Distilled Water (or filtered and non-chlorinated)
Peel and cut ginger into very thin slices. Pound ginger slices to expel juices.
Place juices and pounded ginger into a glass jar. Mix with salt and water.
Add yogurt starter and seal. Let sit at room temperature for 3 to 5 days.
Store in the refrigerator.
For more information:
Websites:
Dom’s Kefir In-site: How to Make Kefir (The best source for Kefir anywhere).
Sauerkraut Fermentation - from the Bacteriology Dept of UW-Wisconsin
Weston A Price Org - Lacto-Fermentation Article
Lucy’s Kitchen Shop: A trusted source for yogurt makers and starters.
SCD Notes on Yogurt
Aquaman’s Sauerkraut Recipe
A Sauerkraut Crock Recipe
Kim Chi Recipe
Books:
Probiotics: Nature's Internal Healers, by Natash Trenev
Breaking the Vicious Cycle: Intestinal Health through Diet by Elaine Gottschall.
Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook that Challenges Politically Correct Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats by Sally Fallon, Mary G. Enig, and Kim Waters.
Beyond Probiotics, by Ann Gittleman.
Acidophilus and Colon Health: How to Prevent Illness, Build Immunity, and Live a Longer, Healthier Life, by David Webster.
©2001 The Healing Crow, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Please direct site commentary or questions to: crow@healingcrow.com
The Healing Crow is a nonprofit corporation. Information published by The Healing Crow is intended to expand the knowledge of the reader about health issues. It is not meant to diagnose, prescribe, or replace medical care. Our mission is to educate the public about chronic illnesses and corresponding non-drug related treatments. We encourage others to critically examine all avenues of information pertaining to health including: naturopaths, chiropractors, physicians, medical and scientific papers, and others; in order to make an informed decision. We believe a patient has the right to question a health source without taking any medical advice on faith. The best patient is an informed one. Before instituting a major change in diet or nutrition please consult a worthy expert in nutrition or a doctor. Although we believe our information to be as accurate as possible, discrepancies may arise. If you have a personal story and would like to include your testimonial on our site, please email us at the link above.
my-c6168.txt - - - - v6-17-08: content of
this document:a male with valuable-time.gives it instead...into the hands
of a beautiful girl. her previous posts: buzzing...taptaptap....and
invisible kisses to dream about. --xo NOW is sometimes too intense to
realize. Posted 6/11/2008 11:10 PM hypgnostic block delete wishes do come
true. even if they donut talk. Posted 6/11/2008 10:24 PM hypgnostic block
delete nope. not here. i guess as much as i like to "know" a person, i
wood like one to "know" me too. though i have come up hard, my insides
remain soft. i've always appreciated them that way. for you: if sun-god
holds one's heart, then it truly free to share. believe that i am truly
free. feel that, if anything. - Posted 6/11/2008 10:18 PM hypgnostic block
delete please talk to me? -now- (heart sinking to my tummy) i wantto be a
doer not a talker. please help me do this.(more honey more!) - - - end of
her posts. deuda_male wants to answer your 6-11-08 now: ouch!...my
heart...tugs when you say... (more honey more!) pleeez be patient with-me
misstress. note: mistress: is a name describing a complete
heart-surrender... to another person. it almost meens 'queen'... (.poor
Male is hurtin Bad.) - (.more.) yes mistress. you are so female to pull me
out of 'past and future.' and into -NOW- - Male cant see -NOW- ...female
can. - i wood fite you but... gendr108 tells me not to. just hold
still... let her do her stuff... -???- it must be a 'girl-thing.' care-ing
for a-part of him he dosnt... understand...? - male dosnt want to
talk-about it 'details' cuz he 'CANT'see it... mistress?: his dEEper-need
of you. - - - (.more.) mistress im sooo sorry... i get so 'busy' that i
bla bla bla.. and then bla bla bla... so... i will sit rite here beside
you and stop tring to tie things together... (plop) .looking at your eyes
and chin. (.taking your beauty in.) .holding your hand in mine. uhh...
(.long quiet moments.) um,, you need to make a list of things you want
your male to do to you... for a day... or..um...er.. for a night. stuff
you want him to always do to you. even if he must act-it-out.. for a
day... - atleeeest... ''untill his heart is tugged.'' till he bigins to do
it on impulse... cuz he knows your wishes. and 'wants' to treat you so
so-so-so well. so show him how! - im green! im teach'uble' i bin watching
mennonites... so i think i know... how a girl shood be loved. its not a
one-night-thing. its a... 'surrender to your heart' thing... to surrender
to it. completly. one day and every day. and all night. completly
committed 2U. hmmm...nnow if only... we cood meet people who... still live
that way... hmmm.... people who love god. to help us on our way. -
(.more.) maybe you dont like some words i use.. like obill? i can cut them
out. (.my hand squeezes your hand.) maybe you want 'More'... i just dont
know. (.my kiss Lands under your -EAR:) - pull-out a romance-novel i will
read-it to you. how bout a bible story. first and last 3-chapters. a
nation was built on this book. - how-bout evolution-stories... 90
years-old now. 'evol' for short... a nation... was destroyd by it.
hhhmmm... good words? kids dont even know their fore-fathers beliefs. 'in
god we trust' colonial writings arnt in schools...cuz.. they loved god.
the idea now is to destroy that love.. by telling kids evol. so they cant
love. they look for love. but cant find.love. only evol. no truth. no
light. everything now is... 'made in china' .even our beliefs)... are
communism. no freedoms. no inventions. only darkness. cuz beliefs are...a
big part... of what makes a nation... different. think of it! your child
wont ever Hear gods love. the bible. words irish people herd for 100ds of
years: and hoped you wood too. the light is gone. evol.won. wmpress.org
chick.com ftl.org? - freedom isnt for everyone. and trying to get it
back... wood be bloody. . . a new dark-age has begun. --- enjoy the 'NOW'
how-bout reading to you in circles... (.girl-style.) ...enjoying every
part of it. love stories. messages from above. words that make hearts
strong. somthing trusted for ages. things grand-parents 'hoped' wood be
passed-on... BE-SURE to read st.john and the chapter in Romans. in the
B.i.b.l.e.: b.asic i.nstructions b.efore. l.eaving. e.arth. - .maydn hates
relejus stuff. .so does son-god. .he called relejus leaders
.'poison-snakes'. . .they killed him for that. .relejus systems always try
to kill god. .like evol does in school. . .the kid becomes agnostic. .the
teacher gets paid. .so in god we trust. .meens what.? . . how bout reading
somthing sensual!??... - nope.no.im h-ear to make your heart beat. not
bleed. not gush. not pump-it-so-bad it starts screeming for ...more?
...this is love: teach Male to be a good 'heart-keeper' (.please move your
hair so i can breeth better.) Q:what do you want in your garden? A:that:
Male was a good heart-keeper. he didnt mess around. (.the results were
beautiful.) no....no more 'heart-...breaking... .abusive words.. you can
teez her...but dont.. dont pull her heart into bad things. - why? cuz im
committed to her. maken-love to a beautiful heart... meenz not getting her
drunk... meenz not making her sick. meenz years later her heart' has no
scars, no fears, no shame. alcohol.(drugs).and a fowl mouth.. always
brings scars thorns empty. - lay up treasures. a good example!. follow
them! ...yes be a squirrl...but not a foul mouthed one. - i want Flowers
to Bloom. (.from her heart?) a place Hearts can grow. but you say no.
hearts are only for doing crazy-things and getting hurt. bleeding.
gushing. crying.pain. - i say no. i say a little touching... .a little
tugging. gentle leading. .no more bleeding. tender care. .pulls on your
hair. no more 'rush'. .hopeless crush. daily tasks. .no more gush. sweet
smells on your.hands. ..no more anger... when you and me are done.
plant-ing words in the son. then let it rain! - .lots of care. .lots of
share. .no more break. .only tears. .cuz it hurts. .when love gets in.
.instead of lust. .and hate. (its a terrible distraction.) - .the golden
rule. .still in school? .cuz no one knew. .whats best for you. .except the
designer. .of all things. - (.more.) .male cant see. .he has blind-spots.
.so do you. .male says your wasting his time. .you say it was spent
wisely. .cuz its time spent with you. .the typing too.
buzzing...taptaptap....and invisible kisses to dream about. -- if i can-nt
do it rite... then i wont do-it at all.??? i want to pleese mistriss
bery3-08 much! (.songs.) it thrills males-heart. she watches him bump and
blunder. trip and stumble. flip and fall. the entire wauy. like a new-born
deer. tring to find first steps... with... the..others. - - (.arms around
your heart.).. stag-hugs... trying to make peace with... a grace-ful
doe.... she has eyes that make his Tail-twitch both are acting silly... .
.x - x - x . .ouch.! you can let go of my hand now... i think your..you..
yeeeow! your breaking my fingers off@ - - you know what maydn... i like
sitting here with you... watching my fingers turn blue. - i almost forgot
i was a stupid male. and thhat i got better things to do. -no end- --xo
(.comment added much later:) it can all be wrapped-up in my favorite
chick-tract: ''this was your life''
www.chick.com/reading/tracts/0001/0001_01.asp?wpc=0001_01.asp - (.next
comment:two days later.) june-21 solctice sun now closest to the Earth.
please stay out of the heat-waves. - .body looses iodine after... just a
few sun-cell-mirowave exposures. .skin wont heal. .keep salt out of
sunlight. - things to do: tug more hearts to visit galeeb.blogspot.com
re-lated groops wood be: urbanscout.org survivalistbooks.com\groups
farmersonly.com singles-tree forum at 'homesteadingtoday.com?',
google:survivalist rewild retribe 12tribe xanga reenact post important
tools\lists at re-chat. - and most important of all: dont drive deudamiff
crazy with your smiles..:-)... . . . x . just cuz he loves you. -
(.more.typed late, after dark:) i still have the 'first message'...
ever-sent by hip_gnostic (now hxxxostic) to deuda_m. the very frsst one.
(sigh) you-R so dream-ee!... i want to hold your heart... watch
it..pitr-patr.pitr-patr. even when 'rain-rain' feelings. makes you
wet-wet. teach me to hold your-heart... fffffirm until your done. and be a
good male/to you. i need to know i can hold-it. when emotions want to
go-off! i need to know 'my hands. keep you together... and do not pull you
apart.. - your words are so precious. your heart is so precious. your
words <-- um...? cuz i dont get to have a girl who can type\talk like
that... you probly shoodnt but... god knows...what males need. it was so
few words. they work so well on me. why me...why me.... people can laff it
off. but i cant... i got tuff-times now... E-Z-daze are gone..(4evry1)
what you gave is all i got. i dont laff to well anymore (no1can). i have
what you gave. (.you are everything a male cood want.) you sure know how
to make me free-up-inside. its like you were pre-? pre-paired to help me.
before i ever knew you. (.more.) i gota quit typing like this...im trying
to say: these words: ''your so precious to me.'' i will put them in our
garden. and hope somthing good grows. but your looking at me like you want
that word 'precious' pulled out cuz you dont know what male is feeling.
well mrs.Bias Female you post some odd words too! - maybe i will just hold
your words... a little titer. in my hands. in these dark-days and... say
'thank-you' (i printed them) cuz 'thank-you' is all i can say when...
stupid female cant understand. -n-O-end- - (.next.) dark and late is the
hour. crikets-chirping the 3rd moon 'looks' FULL. do you watch it with
me? (yahhwn) mood:silly tired questions. i cant think strayt when its this
late... i wanted to keep typing anyway. i think you like it that way.
chills! cool-dark night. pitr-patr pitr-patr... you still feel warm and
bright. - listen male..to her beat. listen male...at her feet. let her
calm you. let her rest you. cuz it took... a-lot of water a-lot of seeds
to get-her this close to you. water and seeds(flour) makes a fine
pasty-mess. so you two can stick-together. threw thick and thins. a friend
loves at...(yahwwn) all times. and her heart fffffeels good...
when..it...rests safe.. in son-gods.(yahwwn)..hands. .... ... ... ..x.
.zzzzzzzh. -(.oh god how i love this maydn...dont ever take her away from
me... make a-way for her and meet her deepest needs. bring-her to
yourself... soon,) - - - (.next morning.) after-much...
rubbing-thumping... sleep-walking? no sleep-humping.. the-day came back.
and glad! to see it. that was a long trip. um..do we do that every nite? i
feel like going fora neet-new project. making kiefer cheese! after a
walk(patrol). but feeling you beside me pulls me back to last nite... -
(.looking at her.) commited meens: to her only. i can talk about things i
woodnt say-type to anyone else. (.thank-goodness.) so here cums more:
little-shows of affection. and tungue-kissis. must meen alot to maydn. im
leening on gnder108 cuz i dont knoe. male only thinks male. thats why i
need gnder108 tell me what she likes. tell me what i like but... was to
ashamed to say it. a real person put gnder108 together. see maydn? someone
made alot of goof-ups. to find our differences. so we cood understand
each-other better. its a step-stone so we dont have to 'goof-up'... and-or
just get angry... id hate to be the persons who made it possible. but
then... see? wee need people. their hard-learned skills. its a natural
defense. to go-look for people... the kind you... ...want to be like, even
if they arnt human. they may have a 'trate.' you value. you hold to be..
precious. - (.more.) when this new-day gets to exciting for bed... i reech
for a scripture-song... to get my mind fed. .in-tune with older-powers. .a
person i want to be like: .god. . . .old-path says to sing it to maydn
from a book. .but i dont like my voice.. and find it easier to just..
.flip-a-switch.mp3 . .(.still looking at you.) oh maydn...(.sigh.) your
so....(-x- -x ----x) i better not say. . . i 'CANT' feel for you when you
speak of tungue-kisses. i keep all my affections...um. between my
legs... but since girls got nothing like that...then they must make-up for
it by having a tungue tuned-up for 'exploration' . .if thats what you
need... .and you teach me to like it too. .you can 'have-at-it'. .i will
seal my lips around yours. and you can have easy-entrance. .and go as deep
as you want. .committed to her. .meens meet...her urges. ..'NOT' make them
worse!.. . . .did i say it right? . .maydn? - why are you looking at
me... like that? i was just tXXX..-O- (.two hours later.) . .-O- . (.three
hours later.) . .-O- . (.noon-time.) . oh maydn!....i see what you meen.
but you hurt my cheese. - --xo . . .
How to prepare cultured-vegetables with Kefir Grains --- as a natural starter-enhancer
Back in 1982, I introduced Kefirkraut to the folks of Australia on a small commercial scale cottage industry. The product was sold as "Salt Less Sauerkraut". This unique culture-product was wholesaled to selected health food outlets including specialty deli's in Adelaide, South Australia. Explained on this web page is the very recipe and method for culturing this wonderful cultured-vegetable product, which was developed and immensely enjoyed by yours truly, and which grained much popularity among our community. Kefirkraut is quite similar, but superior to traditional sauerkraut, I feel. The reason being that sauerkraut is traditionally prepared by the fermentation of fresh, shredded cabbage including seed spices such as juniper and caraway, and may include fresh herbs such as dill leaf, with the addition of 2% to 3% salt. In this case, common sauerkraut normally takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture.
On the opposite side of the chopping board however, kefirkraut is cultured with the addition of kefir grains incorporated as a starter-enhancer. This permits the culture-process to proceed more rapidly and without the use of any salt, or, only a small percentage of salt may be used, if desired. The culture-product can be tailor-cultured to suit personal preference of the Kefirkraut-Master. This unique method of incorporating kefir grains, influences a more rapid fermentation and as a result produces culture-vegetables with optimal nutritional value. Kefirkraut may be regarded as a vegetable-probiotic source, low in carbohydrates, rich in Lactobacilli, Yeasts, Vitamin U [only found in cabbage] and Vitamin C including some of the B group vitamins bio-synthesized by the friendly organisms native to kefir grains, and to fresh cabbage or other fresh vegetable ingredients that may be used in any given recipe.
The native microflora of cabbage is evident as a powdery white film, covering the surface of the outer dark green leaves of fresh cabbage. This film causes the interesting phenomenon, which I refer to as, water running off of a duck's back. This effect is observed by pouring water over the surface of cabbage leaves. The water is repelled from the surface of the leaf, forcing the water to form water beads, which readily roll off the leaf. This phenomenon protects the native microflora from being damaged or removed from the leaf surface in wet conditions.
Kefirkraut was conceived through the union between the native microflora of cabbage and kefir grains
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Main Topics on this Page
Kefirkraut | Ingredients & Utensils | Preparing Kefirkraut | Kefir Grains for Preparing Kefirkraut
Variations | Kefchi | Raditional Tips | Microbial Evolution of Kraut | Links to my web pages | Links of Interest
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KEFIRKRAUT
Kefirkraut is a naturally pickled cabbage developed without the use of salt, vinegar or any other added preservative. The process relies on the native microflora of both cabbage and kefir grains to ferment and to preserve the culture food-product. The conversion of starches and sugars [found in raw vegetable] into natural vinegar [acetic acid], lactic acid and other organic acids are the compounds responsible for naturally preserving kefirkraut.
Kefirkraut is quite simple to prepare. In fact, anyone with a small amount of excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains should find the recipe and method explained here, quite easy to follow. One has the option to include a wide variety of vegetables, including certain fresh fruits. This includes Japanese radish [Daikon] or small red radish, broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, parsnip, turnip, beet root, garlic, sprouted legumes, apple and quince etc. Kefirkraut has a crisp, fresh texture with a funky delicate flavour. It makes a wonderful addition to fresh salads, for kefirkraut provides the correct amount of a mellow-tangy-edge, just enough to enhance flavour. With the addition of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of sea salt or a small amount of traditional non-pasteurized soy sauce or non-sodium salts to taste, followed with a cup of creamy kefir... what more can one say?.. except for-- Kefir-Cheers!
Kefirkraut-- satisfies the Bliss-Point-Factor where sauerkraut fails
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IngredientsUtensils
# Fermentation Vessel. A large nonmetallic 4-litre [1 gal] tall round or square container e.g., a food-grade glazed terra cotta crock or glazed stoneware crock or a glass jar as shown in picture above. A tall cylindrical vessel is best [See below].
# Mortar and pestle or food processor to bruise the cabbage.
# Large wooden-dowel. It can be e.g., a wooden rolling pin with one end sawn off square, or similar. It is best for the dowelling to be a little longer than the height of the fermentation vessel. This is your pounding tool if a mortar and pestle or food processor is not available or not preferred. Or it is your pressing tool if using a mortar and pestle or food processor.
# A Follower. This is to cover the ingredients. Either a round flat dish or a wooden disk which fits snug in the fermenting vessel. However, this may be omitted if you use a suitable weight source. [See following].
# About 1kg [2Lb] weight e.g., a large clean stone, or a large bottle or jar filled with water [If an appropriate wide enough jar is used, it can replace the follower called for above].
# One medium to large fresh organically grown cabbage with outer dark green leaves left intact.
# Optional ingredients One Japanese radish [Daikon], or a bunch of small red round or long radish. One medium size carrot. One medium head of broccoli and or cauliflower. 2 large mustard green leaves. A few young tender broad bean plant tips, including 1/2 cup fresh broad beans. 1 medium size beet root. 1 cup sprouted legumes or seeds e.g., mung bean, soybean, lentil, alfa-alfa, cress or any combination. 1 Tbs each of caraway, dill and or fennel seed. About 12 juniper berries.
# 2 Tbs milk kefir-grains or 4 Tbs water kefir-grains. Use fresh excess or spare milk or water kefir-grains.
# Liquid. Fresh water, preferably natural spring water that has been pre-boiled and cooled to room temperature. Or fresh vegetable or fruit juice or a mixture of both. [This is to cover the vegetables in the fermentation vessel. About 1 to 3 cups depending on quantity you're making and size of crock and amount of bruising done to the cabbage-more bruising less liquid required].
Method for Preparing Kefirkraut
Preparing the Ingredients
Remove large outer dark green leaves from the cabbage until clean, light-green leaves appear. Keep two of the outer dark-green leaves and wash well with fresh water. Cut whole cabbage in half and remove hard centre core with a sharp knife. Shred cabbage to about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick long strips.
Mortar and Pestle Method for Bruising Cabbage Pound a handful amount of shredded cabbage in a mortar with a pestle to bruise, until its own juice is released when a portion of bruised cabbage is squeezed in the hand. Pound small amounts at a time, placing each bruised portion in a large bowl, until all the cabbage has been processed.
Electric Food Processor Method for Bruising Cabbage Put an amount of shredded cabbage in electric food processor and process as low speed for a few seconds until bruised and a little juice is released from the cabbage. Do not over process otherwise you will be left with a mush. Put in a large bowl, and process another small amount like so, until all the cabbage is processed.
Wooden Dowel Method for Bruising Cabbage Fill fermenting vessel 1/3 with shredded cabbage. Pound the cabbage with wooden dowel until cabbage is well bruised and a little juice is released. Put bruised cabbage in a large bowl. Process the remainder of shredded cabbage as explained.
Optional veggies may be used whole, if no larger than about 2cm [1"] in thickness. Cut to size as required e.g., cut large daikon radish, carrots and whole beet root julienne style. Small round radishes may be included whole or cut in half or quarters. Broccoli/cauliflower heads need to be removed from the main stalk and separated into small individual flowerets. Small heads may be added whole or bruised by mortar and pestle or dowel method explained above. The same goes for sprouted seeds or legumes. Except for the kefir grains, mix all ingredients together in a large bowl.
Filling the Fermentation Vessel
Place 1/2 amount of kefir grains at the bottom of the container. Begin filling the container with vegetable ingredients. Press each layer down with a wooden dowel, or with a clenched fist until well compressed. Keep adding ingredients and compress until 1/2 the ingredients remain, and then evenly place the remaining kefir grains over the surface of the compressed ingredients.
Keep adding and compress more ingredients until 3/4 volume of fermenting vessel remains incompressible.
Place 1 or 2 washed outer whole cabbage leaves over top layer of compressed ingredients. Try to force the edges of the leaves down the sides of the container using a wooden spoon. This is to cage or seal the ingredients contained beneath.
Place a plate or wooden disk on top of the cabbage leaves, then place the weight on top of this. Note that if an appropriate wide enough weighting source is used, then there is no need to place a plate or wooden disk, for the jar or weight may be enough to hold down the ingredients so the ingredients do not escape and float during initial fermentation at room temperature.
If the ingredients are not completely submerged under juice, add enough water or fresh fruit such as apple or vegetable juice [or a mixture] until the plate is covered by about 2.5cm [1"] of liquid. However, if the ingredients were well bruised, there should be enough juice to cover the contents once the weight is put in place in step 5 above.
Place a plastic bag over the container to keep out air, dust and insects. The bag may be secured with string or with an elastic rubber band placed around the fermentation vessel.
Let the container sit undisturbed in a cupboard or in a root cellar. On day 3, check the surface of the liquid for signs of scum seen as froth or foam [or possibly kahm yeast] and remove this by skimming with a spoon. However, in most cases kahm yeast should not form when kefir grains are used as a starter-enhancer, for the expedient fermentation does not allow such yeasts to form.
The kefirkraut should be ready for cold storage at day 4 to day 5.
For the technical minded folks or tech-heads out there, readiness can be determined by testing for pH using litmus paper, or a digital pH meter [obtained from chemical suppliers, or Hydroponics agriculture suppliers]. The pH should be 4.5 to 4 [mildly acidic]. This is when the kefirkraut is ready for ripening under cold storage [refrigeration].
Experience suggests that during summer months kefirkraut is ready at day 4, and day 5 during winter.
Remove the weight and disk or plate. Seal the container with a lid, and then place the container of kefirkraut in the fridge. If the crock it too large to fit in the fridge, transfer the kefirkraut with all the liquid into suitable containers with good secure lids, and refrigerate. The ingredients should be submerged under liquid at all times. If the contents are not covered by liquid, add a little fresh water or fresh vegetable juice, adding enough to just cover the ingredients [not too much juice or water though, Dear Liza].
Kefirkraut should be ready for consumption after ripening in the fridge for 4 to 7 days. Although kefirkraut may be consumed from day one, ripening improves overall flavour, similar to the aging of wine. Ripening also increases some B group vitamins.
That's it! ... You've kefirkrautarized along with members of a minority group who do... that is until the culture-art is more widely spread, on sourdough rye, or essene bread.
Refrigerated salt less kefirkraut should store well for 3 to 4 months.
Troubleshooting and Other Notes
If the kefirkraut is soft or mushy, fermentation was too long or the temperature was too high during fermentation, or too much air was allowed during initial fermentation. I recommend to ferment for less time rather than over ferment. In any case, kefirkraut will continue to ripen in the refrigerator, even if the kefir grains have been removed. In most cases, optimal time and temperature for fermentation is 4 to 5 days at about 22°C [70°F].
When ever a portion of kefirkraut is removed from the container for consumption, compress the contents left in the container to ensure that the ingredients are submerged under liquid. This improves keeping quality.
Kefirkraut at the Beginning of Fermentation [Day 0]
This photo demonstrates fresh ingredients at day 0 of fermentation. A glass jar filled with water makes a good weighting source. This is an all-glass method for fermentation, which is the safest method for fermentation, making it superior, utensil chemical-leaching safety-wise. Below the jar, I placed 6 lengths of clean locally grown bamboo strips to cage down the ingredients, to prevent them from coming up to the surface. The bamboo strips are put in place of a wooden disk or flat plate [follower]. Because CO2 is produced during fermentation, the overall volume of liquid will increase over time, so the fermentation vessel is never filled more than 3/4. The vessel is best placed in a wide, shallow container to catch any spillage which may occur during fermentation. To reduce air and to prevent dust and insects from getting into the brew, the whole system is covered with a large plastic bag, secured with a large elastic rubber band or tied with string around the sides of the fermentation vessel. Or, a damp cloth is forced in the small gap left between the weighting jar and the mouth of the brewing jar, to seal the contents reasonably airtight.
After happily brewing for 4 to 5 days at room temperature, the weight and disk [bamboo strips in this case] are removed, the kefirkraut jar is sealed airtight with a lid, and then refrigerated. During cold storage, the vegetables are kept submerged under juice, as the ripening process improves flavour while the kefirkraut matures over some days.
There was no need to add any water or juice in this particular batch, because the cabbage was heavily bruised with a mortar and pestle. The cloudy layer of liquid is 100% its own juice. This produces a wonderful delicious, nutritious crispy textured kefirkraut, with good keeping quality.
This photo demonstrates another of my all favourite all-glass method for kefirkraut fermentation. In this case, a tall cylindrical glass vessel holds the ingredients, and a second glass jar filled with water is both the follower, and weight source. This fits nice and snug in the cylinder like a piston in a sleeve, pressing down on the ingredients, and preventing them from merging into the liquid.
The plastic placed over the mouth prevents air from getting in, and any odour from getting out, sealing the vessel reasonably airtight. This is a good way to prepare a garlic or onion kefirkraut, for these two ingredients create a strong odour that can be offensive to sensitive noses. When I have good banana leaves from our home grown banana trees, I use these in place of plastic sealer. Any large leaves such as cabbage can also be used to seal the vessel.
This particular batch is at day 7. It contains .5% sea salt. Note the absence of scum on the surface of the liquid. THis is thanks to water kefir grains that were used in this particular batch, 2 tbs in fact, blended with the freshly pressed carrot juice to form a mushy starter enhancer.
Much of the carotene of carrot juice, which gives the orange colour to carrots, has precipitated due to fermentation, seen as a orange-brown layer just above the string. The string is tied around the jar to prevent accidental breakage of the glass brewing vessel.
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Kefir Grains for Preparing Kefirkraut
Each new batch of kefirkraut is best cultured with fresh spare, or excess milk or water kefir-grains. You may find that water kefir-grains hasten fermentation more so than milk kefir-gains, so it is important to keep a close eye on the progress of fermentation when using water kefir-grains. In fact, I have used both water and milk kefir-grains for my kefirkraut, placing an equal portion of milk and water kefir-grains at the bottom and in the middle of the ingredients in the fermentation vessel. I now use either or both milk and water kefir-grains blended with a little water or juice to form a mash, and mix the mash with the chopped and pounded fresh ingredients. This produces a superior kefirkraut in less time!
The process is very flexible, for you can either use whole kefir grains, putting these first at the bottom of container and then half way up the container when half of all ingredients are put in the brewing jar. Or, kefir grains may be blended with water or fruit/veggie juice and mixing the mash with the pounded ingredients, then filling the brewing jar with the fresh ingredients. Or, a few kefir grains may be pounded with amounts of fresh veggies, and filling the brewing jar as you go.
Excess or Spare Kefir Grains are a portion of kefir grains, which are removed from a batch of kefir-grain prepared dairy milk-kefir [for milk kefir-grains] or, removed from a batch of water kefir-grain prepared water kefir [for water kefir-grains], when either of the appropriate grains have increased in milk or in sugar/water, to the point of having too many grains. Milk kefir-grains increase by about 5% to 10% by weight at 24 hours cultured in dairy milk for preparing milk kefir.
On the other hand, water kefir-grains can increase by as much as 220% at 48 hours in sugar/water for preparing a traditional water kefir, especially with added ginger root juice, alkaline salts such as 1/8 tsp sodium bicarbonate per 6-cups sugar-water with either egg shell, oceanic coral or limestone powders. However, good growing water kefir-grains like I have, should increase on an average of about 100% by weight at 48 hours. This lets you know that if you have healthy water kefir-grains and culture them as I do, then these are more readily available for preparing regular batches of kefirkraut, for milk kefir-grains increase by a much lesser percentage, which makes milk grains less available for regular kefirkraut making.
Do not use all your kefir-grains for culturing kefirkraut, for there is a good chance that they will no longer propagate in milk or in a water-kefir once the grains are used for kefirkraut. It is not worth taking any risk, when you can simply wait for a week or two to culture enough spare milk kefir-grains, or, wait to prepare a few batches of water kefir to give you a surplice of water kefir-grains.
Although I used to suggest using kefir grains from the pervious batch of kefirkraut to culture a new batch of kraut, I have decided to omit this suggestion in case problems arise due to lack of experience in food-fermentation. I feel more comfortable suggesting to only use fresh, spare kefir grains of choice, in each new batch of kefirkraut.
Kefir grains may be left in the cultured-kraut at all times is they are used whole, consuming any amount of grains removed with a portion of cold storage ripened kefirkraut ready for serving. We very much enjoy any small portion of kefir grains that are scooped at random with a portion of kefirkraut. But my preferred method is to blend a few milk kefir grains with a larger portion of water kefir grains to prepare a smooth mash as explained above, a starter-enhancer paste for kefirkraut. This prepares a superior kefirkraut taking less time to ferment, producing lactic and acetic acid at a much faster rate, which ensures good preservation.
There is also the option to remove kefir grains, if used whole, by transferring the ingredients to a separate container just prior to cold storage, searching for, and removing any kefir grains as you find them. These may be eaten, used in baking sourdough goods [as a leavening agent or starter], composted or discarded.
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Variations
The Perfect Crispy Kefirkraut with Whole Veggies
I used to wonder why one of my friend's father used to prepare whole cabbage and whole root lactic veggie ferments, with the addition of grape skin left over from his lovely wine making including whole grape wine leaves. I found his culture-veggies to have an elegant crispiness about them, that was unmatched and which was retained in the veggies for many months. I learned that the tannin-rich grape skins and grapevine leaves was most likely the reason for crispiness in the larger variety of culture root-vegatable types. I found that if fresh grapes were squeezed or pressed for their juice, and then using the spent grape-skins in kefirkraut, with the addition of grape vine leaves placed at the bottom of the ingredients in the fermentation vessel, produces wonderful results, if whole root vegetables including whole Gherkin [young immature cucumber] are included in my kefirkraut recipe. In fact, I've cultured small, whole cabbage with added grape skins and seed, including grape vine leaves, also produces good results.
A hand full amount of spent grape skins and a layer of grapevine leaves are placed at the bottom of the crock. An amount of shredded and bruised cabbage is then placed over this layer, and then a whole cabbage is nested into the shredded cabbage. Depending on the size of both the cabbage and the crock, you may nest a few whole small cabbages along side to create a layer. Or, just one whole cabbage may be nested in.
An amount of shredded and bruised cabbage with about 1/2 cup kefir grains blended with a little water is placed in any airspace left around the whole cabbage, including a small amount on top of the whole cabbage. Small, whole root vegetables such as turnips including small cucumbers may be included in any gap with shredded cabbage if desired. More grape vine leaves are laid down over the top layer of shredded, bruised cabbage. A flat dish is placed over this, and weighted down with a jar filled with water. Dilute cabbage juice blended with a few kefir grains is added [with a little salt to taste if desired] to cover the ingredients, adding enough liquid to go over the plate by about 2.5cm [1"]. The vessel is covered with a large plastic bag and left to stand for 5 to 10 days [depending on temperature and amount of salt], followed by cold storage ripening.
Adding Spice is always Nice and adding Garlic for that Kick-a-lip-lick!
Spices such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, juniper berries, caraway, dill and celery seeds, fresh or dry ginger root and chili peppers or fresh garlic may be included to enhance both flavour and fermentation. Mix any seeds or spice powders together with the vegetable ingredients prior filing the fermentation vessel. As a general guide, 1 teaspoon to 1/2 tablespoon of each seed spice per whole head of cabbage [about 1kg or 2.2 Lb] is a reasonable measure.
Spices may be ground to enhance flavour and encourage growth of the friendly microflora. Fresh ginger root, garlic and chili peppers provide an exotic zesty flavour to kefirkraut. However, garlic can produce quite a strong aroma, so be forewarned and make certain to cover the fermentation vessel well, with a plastic bag. You may not want to brew your garlic loaded kefirkraut in the kitchen, for you may well keep away wanted visitors! Then again, what of unwanted visitors?! Including these may produce a form of Kim-chi of Korea [Kefchi]. I prefer pounding fresh ginger root, garlic and chili peppers together in a mortar with a pestle to form a chunky paste, mixing the paste with all the pounded cabbage just prior filling the fermentation vessel. I also pound the kefir grains with those ingredients, then mixing the mash with the pounded cabbage. Vee simply LOVE zi GARLIC and ze GINGER-CHILI kefirkraut. I generally use one crown of garlic [about 15 small cloves] with 60gm [2oz] tender, young green ginger root and 5 or so fresh chili peppers to each 3kg [6.6Lb] of ingredients.
Culture-Preserved Fresh Ginger Root
Sliced fresh ginger root may be cultured with kefirkraut as a means to naturally preserve ginger root. Peel fresh ginger [young tender green ginger is best], by running the blunt edge of a knife lengthwise to scour along the outer skin. Wash the root to remove the skin, then cut the peeled root into about 1/2cm [1/4"] thick slices, either lengthwise or widthwise. Layer these last, just before covering the compressed ingredients with large cabbage leaf [or clean white cloth]. The ginger may be left in with the kefirkraut during cold storage, removing portions of ginger as needed for preparing whatever calls for fresh ginger root. This process will not add much ginger flavour to the kraut, if additional ginger juice is not included as part ingredient. In other words, fresh ginger slices retain pretty well its full flavour. Another option is to remove the ginger root after 1 week of cold storage, and place in a jar, covered with extra virgin olive oil [or any oil of preference]. Refrigerate and use as needed. To prolong storage life, the ginger root may first be partially dried for an hour before placed in a jar and covering with oil. Don't discard the oil after using up all the ginger! This is GINGER OIL, which can be used as a salad dressing or what ever you may imagine goes well with ginger e.g., stream-lined pointy red shoes with purple-durple stripes on white extra thick Football socks [^]_[^] Very plush indeed... now, go n' get-em, hot foot!
Adding Seaweed [PRECAUTION]
Seaweed is highly likely to be contaminated with high levels of Mercury. I suggest to locate an Organic Certified seaweed available commercially, which should be safe for human consumption. Although there is suggestion that most seaweed has the ability to remove heavy metals such as Mercury from the body, I question whether this is effective if the seaweed already contains an appreciable amount of heavy metals, to whether this may in fact leach out from the seaweed and into the body via the blood.
Adding Sprouted Legumes, Seeds and Cereal Grains [and Producing Sourdough baked goods]
Dehydrated legumes are best sprouted first. Mung bean sprouts, soy bean sprouts, even sprouted wheat and other cereal grains [sprouted for 32 to 48 hours], can produce interesting results. Sprouted cereal grains encourage growth of organisms responsible for fermentation, due to the natural sugars converted during the sprouting process that provide an energy source for growth and reproduction of organisms. A small amount of sprouted rye, spelt, kamut, wheat or millet are best placed at the bottom of the crock. The spent sprouts may be discarded when the crock is emptied, before cold storage ripening, for kefirkraut-sprouted cereal grains may have an unappealing flavour [bitter/sour/sweet flavour].
Spent cereal sprouts can prepare sourdough baked goods such as sourdough bread. Pound the spent sprouts in a mortar with pestle, or, blend in a food processor with a little warm water and mix the mash with fresh flour, a little extra virgin olive oil or coconut oil, a little salt to taste, and add enough warm water to knead an elastic, sticky or stretchy dough. Put dough in a greased baking tin and let rise in a warm spot until the dough almost doubles in volume, or, until small cracks appear on the surface of the dough. Bake in a preheated oven [180°C or 350°F] for about 45 minutes.
Before placing the dough in a baking tin, a small portion of fresh dough may be kept aside. Store in a jar covered with cloth or waxed paper, and leave at room temperature to ripen for about 2 days. Use this starter to prepare your next sourdough bread, and repeat the process for the next loaf. This method can produce ongoing sourdough-starter similar to the traditional method for sourdough. The ripe starter is used in place of the spent cereal grain mash in the recipe explained above, when it is nice and bubbly having a clean sweet/sour yeasty aroma. So in a nut shell, you can use the spent kefirkrauted sprouted cereal grain mash to either produce a sourdough baked good with fresh spent grains each time, or, to initiate a sourdough starter, by which a small amount mixed with more flour and water to prepare the dough is kept aside and ripened before use.
Including Fresh Fruits and Herbs
Adding slices of apple may also be included in kefirkraut. Adding two apples to each large head of cabbage or one apple to a medium size cabbage makes a nice addition. 1/2 cm [1/4 inch] slices of apple may be placed randomly throughout the ingredients while filling the fermentation vessel.
Vine leaves, black current leaves, spinach, herbs such as Parsley, Greater plantain [Plantago major], Dandelion leaves and flowers [Taraxacum officinale], Rocket [Erucola sativa] including a variety of other edible herbs may be included. Fresh whole broad beans or the young tips of the broad bean plant also make an interesting addition.
As a general thumb ruler, fruits & vegetables containing starch and sugars as part of their biological makeup, may be cultured.
Tenderising High Protein Content Foods with Papaya-Kefirkraut
Green papaya makes a nice rendition when added as part ingredient to prepare kefirkraut [papaya-kefirkraut]. Try including about 1 cup of 5mm [1/4 inch] thick long strips of green papaya to each head of cabbage, or per kilogram [2.2 pounds] of ingredients. Green papaya strips may either be added without bruising, or bruised by pounding with the cabbage. Or, the green papaya may be blended to a mach, with the kefir grains, and mixed with the pounded cabbage. Papaya-kefirkraut, can be used to tenderise high protein foods, such as tempeh, tofu, meats including fish. This is achieved by marinating the high protein food of choice, in a puree form prepared by pounding in a mortar with a pestle, or by blending papaya-kefirkraut in a food processor, and then submerging the food of choice in the marinade. The ingredients can either be marinated at room temperature for 24 hours, or refrigerated for a number of days before cooked or eaten raw. A little sea salt, say, 1/2 to 1 tsp per cup of marinade may be included as part ingredient for the marinade.
There are other fresh fruits that contain meat tenderising property due to proteolytic activity. This includes fresh pineapple, and Kiwi-fruit [Chinese goose berries] to mention a few. The juice of either of these two fruits may be incorporated as part ingredient for a proteolytic kefirkraut for tenderising protein rich foods.
High Calcium Kefirkraut
Try whole unhulled sesame seeds in the mix. The seeds may be added either raw or toasted. Whole, unhulled sesame seeds contain the most calcium found in land vegetables, but the calcium found in the husk is not biologically available. This is because the native calcium found in sesame seed hulls is calcium oxalate. Fermenting unhulled sesame seeds in kefirkraut breaks down the oxalate and produces calcium lactate, through a chemical reaction between lactic acid and calcium oxalate native in sesame seed hulls. This renders the calcium biologically-available [a digestible form].
Traditional sauerkraut is occasionally fermented by using a large heavy piece of limestone as a weight source. Limestone is mostly calcium and magnesium carbonate, and these two elements react with lactic acid in the kraut to form Calcium lactate and Magnesium lactate [bio-available forms]. One may implement this method with kefirkraut, by using a clean piece of limestone as a weight source. Or, by placing a few small pieces of lime stone at the bottom of the crock, or in the last top layer of vegetables before covering the ingredients with the whole cabbage leaf [or clean cloth]. An alternative to limestone is oceanic coral or eggshell. Small pieces of oceanic coral or the shell of one boiled egg may be included in place of adding pieces of limestone as explained above.
Kefirkraut Cultured with the Addition of Sea Salt
Kefirkraut may be cultured with a percentage of sea salt, similar to traditional sauerkraut. But let's first consider the following. Fermentation needs to be extended when choosing to include sea salt as a ingredient. The percentage of salt and ambient temperature during fermentation, determine how long the fermentation process should be.
Traditional sauerkraut commonly contains between 2% to 3% salt and takes between 3 to 6 weeks to culture. Although, preparing kefirkraut provides the option to choose any reasonable amount of salt e.g., 1/4% up to 3% salt. But there is little reason to use more than 1.5% to 2% salt if a refrigerator is at hand, or in cold conditions. However, 2% to 3% salt may be used if there is a need to preserve the vegetables for long extensive periods without refrigeration.
On occasions, I prepare batches of kefirkraut with the addition of unrefined moist Celtic sea salt, or more preferably, salt gathered from ancient lakes or caves from central Australia [for the purity of such salt makes it best quality]. I personally prefer any salted version of kefirkraut to contain 1/4% to 1/2% salt. This small salt percentage provides a subtle savory flavour in the kefirkraut, which is quite enjoyable while extending keeping quality by at least 1 month longer.
Salt percentage refers to an amount of salt added going by the weight of all ingredients. So the gross weight of fresh ingredients including any liquid intended for salting, is seen as 100%. As an example, kefirkraut with 1/2% salt is achieved by including 5gm [.176 oz] of sea salt to each Kilogram [2.2 Lb] of all ingredients including any liquid for that particular recipe.
Adding the Salt Once the salt is calculated by weight, the measured portion of salt may be mixed together with previously bruised vegetable ingredients. Alternatively, portions of salt may be pounded together with amounts of sliced cabbage and other ingredients, and then filling the crock as you go. Another option is to sprinkle portions of salt over layers of pounded ingredients as they are places in the crock. Or, salt may be dissolved in the liquid, such as vegetable juice or fruit juice or a mixture and blended with kefir grains, and then poured over layers of ingredients as you fill the crock.
Adding the Kefir Grains. Kefir grains may be blended with some liquid to a chunky to smooth paste to prepare a starter-enhancer. This is especially good with water kefir-grains, but it can also be done with milk kefir-grains, or a mixture of both milk kefir-grains and water kefir-grains. A little starter-enhancer paste can be pounded with sliced cabbage and other ingredients and sea salt. Or the starter-enhancer paste can be poured over pressed layers of ingredients in the crock. Or, whole kefir grains may used. A portion of kefir grains can be added first at the bottom of the crock. Then another portion of kefir grains are placed midway up the crock, or when half the ingredients have filled the crock. Then the crock is filled with the pre-salted ingredients, pressed, and then weighted down.
Fermentation Time As a general guide, kefirkraut with 1/2% salt is fermented for 7 to 11 days during winter and 7 days during summer [at ambient room temperature], and then the kefirkraut must be refrigerated to ripen or mature under cold storage. Although the young kefirkraut may be consumed right away, flavour of 1/2% kefirkraut improves after one week of cold storage. I always sample a small portion of immature kefirkraut before refrigeration. But I prefer the flavour after 1 or 2 weeks. Yes, ripening under cold storage conditions definitely improves flavour, similar to a well aged good wine or room temperature ripened kefir. Also, there is an increase in some of the B group vitamins during cold storage ripening.
With a mug of refreshing foaming kefir at hand-- It's time for Kefir-Cheers! to your health ! Shall we move on? Yes! O.K. -->>
-->> With 1% to 2% salt, fermentation may take between 12 to 21 days at ambient temperature during winter [about 14°C or 57°F] respectively. With these percentages and temperature, if one has the ability to test for pH, then this is an ideal method to determine readiness. Culture until the juice reaches pH 3.7 to pH 3.5 respectively. The cultured-vegetables should be crisp and not soft, mushy or slimy. With 1/4% to 1% salt, culture to pH 4.5 to pH 4 respectively, then the kefirkraut must be refrigerated. At this point, if you find the kefirkraut or the juice is still too sweet or fruity in flavour, ripening under cold storage for a week or two will mature the product, allowing full flavour to develop and improve overalls [that's dungarees for non Australian folks who enjoy a choke on one or two jokes ;-].
The reason kefirkraut with the addition of 1% to 2% salt may be cultured to a lower pH value of pH 3.5, instead of pH 4 to pH 4.5 [when no salt is added], is because 1% to 2% salt inhibits slime forming bacteria responsible for producing soft or slimy kraut. On the other kefir-hand, either salt less kefirkraut or kraut with less than 1% salt has a greater tendency to become soft and mushy, if left to culture to pH 3.5 at ambient room temperature. This is considered as over fermentation in this case. This is why salt less kefirkraut is cultured for only 4 to 5 days [or pH 4.5 to 4] at ambient temperature, then it must be refrigerated and matured for some time. Ripening under cold storage prevents the slime forming bacteria from spoiling the cultured-vegetables. As kefirkraut matures under cold storage, acidity increases until it reaches approximately pH 3.5, which naturally preserves the culture food-product.
Keeping or Storage Time Refrigerated kefirkraut with 1% to 2% salt should keep well for at least 4 and 9 months respectively. A 2% kefirkraut should keep well in a root cellar for at least 3 months, if the ingredients are kept submerged under liquid at all times.
Extending Keeping Quality of Kefirkraut Cultured with Sea Salt
Where there's no fridge, there's always a way, for the way came before the fridge ... but the fridge took away the old ways, which is unfortunate for better health went along with it.
I have discovered that a mature 1% to 2% salt kefirkraut partially dehydrated, will keep well for longer than 2 years without refrigeration. This is achieved by placing a layer of 1% to 2% salt kefirkraut [cultured and matured for the appropriate amount of time as required and explained above] evenly scattered over a wooden try without the juice. The ingredients are left to dry in the shade on a warm day for 1 day, or in a food dryer until most of the moisture has dried. Drying is halted when the cultured-vegetables have a leather-like texture before salt crystals form around the vegetables. The par-dry culture vegetables is stored in glass jars, pressing down firm on the vegetables to remove air pockets. The jar is sealed airtight. This will keep well at ambient temperature, however, it is best stored under cool stable conditions such as a root cellar where possible, for longer, better storage.
The partially dehydrated kefirkraut may be enjoyed as is. e.g., by mixing an amount with salad greens and extra virgin olive oil. Or, a desired portion, say 1/2 cup of par-dry kefirkraut may first be soaked in 1 cup fresh water for 15 minutes before enjoyed. The soaking water may be discarded, or used in soups or stir fry dishes etc. In fact, I very much enjoy a little soaking juice mixed with milk kefir!
My most favourite recipe for a partially dehydrated kefirkraut, is one that is prepared with 1% salt, cabbage, lots of fresh garlic, black unhulled sesame seed, mung bean sprouts, fresh indian curry leaf or bay leaf. The garlic is rendered to a powerful form of functional food, which does wonders for the prostate gland, similar to Kyolic aged garlic. Did you fellahs out there get that!?
Adding Vegetable Juice and or Fruit Juice in Place of Water
Freshly juiced vegetable juice including some varieties of fruit juices may replace water explained in Step 6 in the directions explained above. Try cabbage, carrot, celery, ginger root, beet root, turnip, apple, quince, or dark grape juice. The juices may be used per single variety or any combination.
For those who may be concerned about food combination. Yes, you may mix fruit with vegetable juices, for fermentation renders all ingredients equal-- the perfect union between different vegetative-food-groups initiated by the master-of-celebrants-- the Rev. Friendly Micro-Chaps.
The addition of fresh juice is best implemented if the shredded cabbage, including other ingredients, are not pounded to the point of releasing juice when bruised ingredients are squeezed in the hand. The reason being, if fresh ingredients are bruised to release juice under pressure of a clenched hand, then there should be ample juice to cover the ingredients when weighted down and compressed in the fermentation vessel. BUT, if compressed weighted ingredients are not covered by 3 cm [1.5"] of a layer of liquid, then it is essential to add enough fresh juice to cover the weighted ingredients, by about a 3cm [1.5"] layer of juice. Only then will it be possible for fermentation to proceed correctly, and in accordance of culturing a goodness grace-us quality culture-product.
No Mortar & Pestle or Food Processor in the House? Then it's time for some Foot Stomping or "Pounding in the Crock"
Using a mortar and pestle to pound shredded cabbage, vegetables, or fruits is quite an efficient means for bruising fresh ingredients. However, a food processor can also be used to chop and bruise fresh ingredients. But if a mortar and pestle or food processor are not available [or not preferred], then pounding either shredded or whole ingredients in the fermentation vessel itself, until the juice of the fresh ingredients is released, is an option.
There's also the option not to bruise the vegetables at all. Instead, shredded cabbage with optional ingredients are simply compressed with the fist or with a wooden dowel or rolling pin, doing so in the crock itself. Continuing like so, until the vessel is 3/4 filled with well compressed ingredients. With this method, it is essential that the weighted vegetables are covered with fresh water, or preferably with fresh vegetable juice, fruit juice, or a mixture, so that fermentation can proceed successfully. The 2 Lt [.5 gal] container in the picture is a typical glass spaghetti storing jar. The amount of one small cabbage will fill this particular container about 2/3 full. A suitable glass jar that fits snug in the spaghetti brewing jar is filled with water and placed on top of the ingredients. This is both a follower and weighting source for holding down and pressing the ingredients. This is another all-glass method for brewing kefirkraut. Here, I'm using a wooden rolling pin both for pounding, and compressing the shredded cabbage.
I feel safer that the rolling pin is in my hands, rather than in my wife, Sandra's hands ... Sheeks! -- I best run for high ground now while rolling pin is still well secured in MY hands -->>>
Our wonder-daughter Shedea, six months of age stomping her feet to bruise the shredded vegetables in a 6 Lt [1-1/2 gal] crock, just like her dad stomping on fresh grapes to prepare wine. O.K., I may be stretching the truth here a little, however, it is fair to say that most, if not all children become readily akin with the culture-world. It is to everyone's advantage if they are exposed to, or introduced as children to the culture-art of friendly organisms, so that the art may become as second nature to them, as they mature and grow healthy into adulthood.
Actually, to tell you the truth, Shedea came to us in that crock, for baby-carrying Storks were on strike at the time of her birth :!) -- Why is my nose so long?
And in no time, Shedea turns almost 3. She's helping me chop up essential homegrown ingredients [mustard greens] for a delicious kefirkraut. Kids love to lend a hand, and Shedea is no exception. God Bless all Kids and you too, Shedea, especially for the special colour you've given to our lives. Shine one, little girl.
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KEF-CHI
Kefchi is a kefir-grain rendition of Kim-chi of Korea. I may prepare kefchi with Chinese [Oriental] cabbage, mung-bean sprouts, daikon radish, Jerusalem artichoke, green papaya, fresh green ginger root, young or mature lotus root, fresh chili, capsicum, garlic, fennel seed, caraway seed and juniper berries. An assortment of other fresh ingredients may be included. This wonderful delicacy can easily be prepared with little to no salt. The terra cotta crock in the picture is where the bruised ingredients are pressed and fermented. As a starter-enhancer, an amount of kefir grains, about 2 Tbs are blended with an amount of vegetable juice to form a mash. THis is mixed with the bruised fresh ingredients before filling the crock.
If no sea salt is included, fermentation takes about 3 to 4 days at room temperature, because Chinese cabbage readily ferments and ferments quickly at that. If a small percentage of sea salt is used, fermentation may take between 5 to 10 days, depending on sea salt percentage and temperature.
The inner walls of the non glazed terra cotta crock in the picture above, is sealed with beeswax. If you are interested in learning how to seal utensils intended for brewing with beeswax, please check my Web Page dedicated to explain this particular art form at-- Dom's Beeswax treated utensils in-site
Kefchi prepared with mature Lotus root. Mature Lotus root is mostly not eaten raw after fermentation because it remains quite starchy. Instead, a few slices of the root are removed from the other ingredients, pounded in a mortar and pestle to form a thick paste, and then cooked with an amount of kefchi juice and a little Rice malt extract or Maple syrup, cooking for 3 minutes. This prepares a smooth, creamy delicious sauce! [Chinese style sweet and sour veggies, anyone?!].
Click picture for larger view
Non chili or sweet Kefchi with home-grown ingredients including cured olives and tomatillo ready to enjoy.
Kefirkraut prepared with red cabbage, red fermented rice powder, oriental broccoli and slices of Japanese radish [Daikon]. This kefirkraut has a crispy texture with a delicate flavour. The red cabbage and red fermented rice give the kraut a delightful red colour, which may be extended in creating wonderfully coloured dishes. I find 1 Tbs red fermented rice per 1kg [2.2lb] ingredients is sufficient.
Borsch [Russian beet root soup usually served cold] with kefir and red kefirkraut anyone?! ... Tips of the fingers to the lips-kiss Mmwooah! --- The time has come to vosh down dah borsch, with kefirrr-cheerrs-- Naustrovia!
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Raditional Tips
Preparing Smaller Quantities on a More Regular Basis
Smaller quantities or batches of kefirkraut may be prepared by using half a cabbage or less, with the addition of your favourite veggies and using smaller containers for fermentation. This is a good option when only a few spare kefir grains are at hand. One tablespoon of milk or water kefir-grains is sufficient to culture 2 to 4 cup size batches. Kefirkraut may be prepared at regular intervals by culturing smaller ongoing batches. The kraut may be consumed fresh, possibly rendering a more efficient probiotic source of specific lactic acid bacteria, which initiate the culture-process e.g., Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Lb. plantarum.
Temperature
Temperature is one of the main factors influencing the process of fermentation. Higher temperatures increases the possibility for kefirkraut to become mushy and slimy within 6 to 7 days, caused by slime forming bacteria. This is preventable by keeping a close eye on the kraut during warmer temperatures, where it may take 4 days to culture. Over fermentation is easily overlooked if temperatures reach above 28°C [82° F]. To ensure quality, I recommend culturing kefirkraut at ambient temperatures ranging between 16° to 22°C [60° to 71°F].
Fermentation Time
I recommend that it is always best to under-ferment than to over-ferment kefirkraut during the initial room temperature cycle within higher temperature limits. This ensures that the vegetables are crisp and will retain crispiness for at least 2 months under cold storage. If the inexperienced is not sure whether the kraut is ready and believe it may need more time at room temperature, then it may be a good idea to finish the kraut in the refrigerator than to risk over fermentation at room temperature. Anywhere between 4 to 6 days at room temperature during summer and winter respectively is usually enough time. Readiness of kefirkraut is mostly dependent on temperature and the amount of kefir grains added ... the warmer temperature, the less time is needed. And to a point, the more kefir grains added, the less time it takes to brew. A good indication for readiness is by measuring pH of the liquid, doing so daily after the third day. If no salt is used, a pH of 4.5 to pH 4 indicates the kraut is ready for refrigeration [cold storage ripening]. Readiness for refrigeration may also be determined by taste-testing for sourness and good flavour. The juice can be sampled for a mild to moderate sour taste, with the slightest amount of fizz on the tongue.
Storage Conditions and Storage Time
Kefirkraut must be ripened by storing in the refrigerator [not frozen]. It should keep for about 3 months. After this period, it may begin to show signs of softness. Kefirkraut prepared with .5% salt, should keep well for about 4 months and 1% salt kraut for about 5 months, and 2% salted kefirkraut will keep for at least 9 months.
Film Forming on the Surface of Kefirkraut Juice During Cold Storage [Flowers or Kefirkraut]
If the salt less kefirkraut is not consumed within 3 to 4 months, then one may find a thin light brown film on the surface of the liquid. This should not be confused with the common Kahm yeast normally found as scum on the surface of traditional sauerkraut. This is more likely to occur when an excessive amount of liquid is covering the kefirkraut which is ripening under cold storage. The film or mycoderma is quite likely formed by friendly yeast and bacteria propagating as colonies under low temperatures. The mycoderma may be similar to the cellulose producing Acetobactor, which forms a cellulose film in homemade vinegar, referred to as mother of vinegar. Although any film found in kefirkraut would be unique when compared to the mother of vinegar variant. In fact, I call the film found on kefirkraut, Flowers of Kefirkraut. The underside surface of all the films I've seen forming in kefirkraut, have small irregular protrusions similar in appearance to tinny light brown coloured warts [or tinny baby kefir grains] randomly scattered along the underside surface of the mycoderma [Hmm?! ... The many small wonders that lay there beneath]. The mycoderma may indicate high activity of yeasts and acetobacter due to the combined efforts of the organisms native to both kefir grains and cabbage. I would recommend discarding the kefirkraut if such a film is found. At this point, the kefirkraut will likely be mushy [loss of crispiness].
Kefirkraut as a Sourdough Starter
Kefirkraut makes an excellent sourdough starter for baking bread and cakes and other baked goods [Yes indeed, sourdough starter can also be used for baking sweet cakes, pretzels including pancakes, doughnuts and biscuits].
Take 1/2 cup portion of kefirkraut vegetables, and blend in a food processor with 1/2 cup of kefirkraut juice till smooth consistency. Or, pound 1/2 cup kefirkraut vegetables in a mortar with a pestle to a smooth paste, and mix with 1/2 cup kefirkraut juice. Mix well with 1.5 cups of certified bio-dynamic or organic wholemeal wheat, spelt or rye flour. This can be as thick or as thin as you like. Place in a glass jar covered with a cloth and leave at room temperature for 2 to 4 days. Each day add 1 tbs of fresh flour and if the mixture is too thick to mix, add a little fresh water and stir well. When the kefirkraut sourdough starter is bubbly, with a rich sweet/sour yeasty aroma, it is ready. You now have a wonderful sourdough starter ... a natural leavening agent when mixed with a larger amount of fresh flour and water to prepare sourdough breads, cakes or other similar pastries or baked goods.
I prepare healthy, wholemeal sourdough spelt or kamut Italian pretzels [Tarralli] with fennel seed, and Italian wholemeal spelt or kamut doughnuts [Zepole] and many more other health-smart wonderful products with a similar sourdough starter.
My nature has mostly been one to return to us, what is as it once was, and to improve on it.
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Evolution of Microorganisms During Typical Sauerkraut Fermentation
Leuconostoc mesenteroids appear in high numbers to initiate fermentation. These eventually commit environmental suicide due to the production of lactic acid, acetic acid, mannitol and ethanol which the organism produce. This provides a stimulus for lactobacilli to proceed fermentation. Mannitol would produce a bitter flavour to the kraut, but it is fermented by populations of lactic acid bacteria [Pediococcus cerevisae, Lb. brevis and Lb. plantarum]. These bacteria, including acetobacter and yeasts keep producing lactic acid, ethanol and acetic acid, until fermentable carbohydrates are depleted, and a pH of 3.5 is reached.
Reference: Cano Raúl J, Colomé S Jaime. [1986] Microbiology.: 815
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The art of culturing has much to teach, especially of relationships.
What is important is what evolves into being, and not what is currently happening.
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Links To my Other Web Pages
About Milk Kefir + Water Kefir | Making Milk Kefir & Water Kefir + Recipes with Kefir | Making Kefir Cheese Kefir Sourdough Pizza + Bread
Kefirkraut + Culturing Vegetables with Kefir | Preserving Food with Kefir | Nutritional and Chemical Composition of Milk Kefir | Kefir FAQs
Seed, Nut + Soy Milk Recipes + Kefir & Viili made from these + Rejuvelac | Nutritional Value of Different Fresh Milk-Types
Culture-Foods of Asia | Kombucha & Vinegar Making | Cooking Tip for Better Tasting Food & Healthier Herbal Tea
Dom's ToothSaving Paste | Beeswax Utensils for Safer Brewing | Cod Liver Oil + Vitamin A & D Therapy
Angelica's Story | Sandra & Dom's Artwork | My Music
About This Site & I with Search Tool for This Site
Links of Interest
www.wildfermentation.com Sandor Ellix Katz, or "Sandorkraut's" sauerkraut recipe.
aqualover.com/lifeforce/sauerkraut.html Mark Adams [Aquaman] homemade sauerkraut recipe.
Updated June 15, 2008
warnings:
watchman watch! eXpect xfrs2blkd. dont-make areas HOT by piking up noticiblz or senta-mentls...stay out of car-phone-reach. 5min = troops gangs bind-you instant prison! no-man-will-buy-you. value you freedom:watch the feed:what enters mouth, what goes out. move-like your one camera, motion detectors:lost entire montanas! spread-wisely places: A1:self knows only,A2:friends, A3:new friends, attacks:go for eyes-cover and breather. change names.no signatures. no agreements. dont talk...its just a distraction. no vent. decoys. alibies.
dont correct small things if time allows bigger things.
schindlers jews:1100 relisted and bought. to survive holocaust.
i cood have gotten more. just one more. ring: he who saves one life...
saves a world.
bunker-down NOW: bob-bag:4days supplys redy2go!.. to forewording-base:4weeks supply... stashspots? trail to master-larders:4years supply. kill horses...bury meat...1 person will eat 7...before first-4-years is realized.
beware:'powers that be' may have plan to keep in position after disaster.
after a total societial-colapse...(end of world as we know it:teotwawki) enuff to plan-executions ahead to graduate into this new-world-order...
new-world-order:500-million souls will live. (think california times ten)
no-crude?:meenz one-half the items presently in stores within 2-years.
when gas-prices get to 6$ pensions disappear, bank-runs will begin.
-end of warnings. now go barter top-barter items:
note the locations and people during your trading, cuz your own values eg:big-sword will not save you from their values eg:davids a-sling.
gospel WATER SEEDS SALT booze knives darts smokes guns medical:vet-iodine and grain-alcohol(use as barter money medical lamp-feul)
bullits(money) scrap-metals(melt) lead precious-metals, pennys(zinc) nickles
WORMS(protein) night-vision:eyes ears alarms animals traps wires-barbed
flavors:sugars herbs spices
batteries darts poisons:methanol,battery-acids,etc blood:rust foot-chains
prisons canning-lids jars
'keep' a man who 'spent' time on guns + engines + feul-making (wine?)
not my time nor place. if i cant shoot, atleast carry bullits for him.
skills:barter your talents for sale: eg.locations, xfers, stash.
i will garden, keep water and seed for you, do xfers for stash(barter items)
'make' people place-value on an object,item,ideal,or person.
eg.the hunter did not value the land-boy, till word of land-boys treasures.
salt oils dog-food cat-dirt(silica-gel desiccants),
liquid-desiccants:gasolien? natrural-spin:?ceramics
liquiid-oxidizers:?? blood iron+hypoclorite(bleach=hi-oxidizer) rust.
clubs (stick-cords) small-weapons, till you get-bak2lardge weapons:rifles
i will not put trust in my weapons, but the lord...shields? carry them?
spritual reward: to live by the sword, is to also live in fear of it,
he that kills by the sword must be killed with the sword.???
four-horseman
vit.C canning-lids raw-milk(lactose fermentation process)
food-grade buckest (bak of bakery\resturants)
dont over-look fats+vegetable-oils + amino-acids for your larder.
lard?
a month of rice-beans-salt
from 6-08\meno-az.txt:
they cant 'hear' you anyway.
they got money-games to play...
meanwhile the land just sits there
as if people dont exist at all.
atleast the gophers know what to do.
they seem to be doing...what we shood be doing...but will we? i aint waiting to find out.
-
eg.ask people! what wood you buy\trade me if i planted it? collect your black-market contacts. for when american-money will only be worth a bullit in the head.(stockmarket crashed on jan.2008, but as usual, 'catchers' were there to fill the ball with more fake money (from the printer) to keep the american-system running a few-secounds longer)...its called:absolute-control of you, your time. and everything you thut was important. (you shood have bin watching the birds.) its called occupation. keeping you to busy to do what you shood be doing...
-
as for me...i always tell son-god:''your blood is for my faults. your spirit is for my goings. the day and nite are yours. and you will help me use it.''
- - - -
6
- - spirit:
- local-people need2be led to local-water and seed and the cross -NOW- !
all else drops in value(suddenly): hate, love, beleifs, money, sex.
(see weeds108.txt)
- when you travel, always share th-4: (watr,greens,seed,friends:gods-words)
localharvest.org,galeeb.blogspot.com,mennonite.ch:4505 foothill blvd,
ret-water.blogspot.com, exair.com\vortex-tubes,survivalblog.com
chick.com,fellowshiptractleague.org? ftl.
always bring-home living-seeds!, get dog-food. local-made?
eg.ask people! what wood you buy\trade me if i planted it? collect your black-market contacts. for when american-money will only be worth a bullit in the head.(stockmarket crashed on jan.2008, but as usual, 'catchers' were there to fill the ball with more fake money (from the printer) to keep the american-system running a few-secounds longer)...its called:absolute-control of you, your time. and everything you thut was important. (you shood have bin watching the birds.) its called occupation. keeping you to busy to do what you shood be doing...
a 'living' for our-generations? umm..no.. the things you 'pay' attention to:
THAt is your children. That is your baby. your son. your Future.
so becareful what you 'Prey' (waste-time on). it matters.
-
passover bread recepies
send to: i2s???.. at 2oct4tom@ausi.com
stop here:
- -
new web-log at each xanga:
can you help me? im looking
for a farm to live at..
i always wanted to do that...
make it one you wood like too.
(click-me)
www.chick.com/reading/tracts/0001/0001_01.asp?wpc=0001_01.asp&wpp=c
www.organicvolunteers.com/search_results.asp?host_type=2
www.galeeb.blogspot.com
- -
svi-608p.txt - - - - v6-15-08 11am notes from reading 5+6-08 survivalblog.com + print-parts
jumpt tO:
1sorts - a list of related? gotten and listed as-found.by date?
2print - notes clipd for print...reduce for future prefix?
3prefx - shows content of 1sorts
paused at 28food-d.txt (start)
- - - - 1sorts:
notes start 5-18?-08 on 10 + 10 + 2 papers:
- first-time-notes = 2 papers,
6-2-08:28rad.txt - radiation. 1?
6-3-08:28retr.txt - retreat opttions.2p
6-6-08:28self.txt - self - sufficiency. 2p
6-6-08:feula+b.txt - feul options.1p
6-7-08:urbanscout.org + maydn stuff.1p
6-8-08:28charity.txt - items4barter.4p
6-9-08:svi606.txt main-page (as of 6-08).2p
unch.txt underground-church movment
6-10-08: earlier downloads svi1234567.txt
from 5-18-08 are finly cawt on notes.4p
6-10-08:feulb.txt - feul options.3p
total: 22papers...
6-12-08:28food.txt - food storage.2p
paused at 1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to
put start notes-on-computer. not paper.
see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
- - -
possible order of note-making: (as-is = as-found)
28rad.txt survivalblog.com\5-29-08\radiation link\ nfo:5-16-08 to 2-1-2006
28retr.txt retreats groups? survivalblog.com 5-25-08 to 5-13-06
28self.txt survivalblog\self-suffeciency data 5-21-08 to 2-2-06
28feula.txt survivalblog\feuls? 5-28-08 to 8-24-07
28feulb.txt survivalblog\feuls? 8-18-07 to 4-21-06
28food.txt re-get?
28outdo.txt survivalblog\outdoor nfo 5-6-08 to 1-27-06
28gooda.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-25-08 to 12-2-07
28goodb.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 12-2-07 to 5-16-07
28goodc.txt survivalblog\g.o.o.d.(getn out of dodge-range) 5-16-07 to 1-27-06
6-12-08:new related? stuff
14 + 14b ?
6-19-08:got? more related?
-end-
- - - - 2print:
parts my-notes say to print
are parts most useful to me
(avoiding most gun + engine nfo)
and not 2sim2what i have alredy.
somewhere.
-end-
paused at 28foodb.txt:
1-12-08 pemmican recipe...to
put start notes-on-computer. not paper.
see svi-608p.txt:you are reading it!
continues here:
--January 12 2008
LettGrandpappy's Pemmican Recipe - A Native American Indian Survival Food
(get entire) ...In the old days, after the meat had been soaked in a brine solution of water and salt, the meat was then cured or smoked. The heat generated during this process was the key
--In my Pemmican Recipe I recommended drying the thin strips of meat in the oven at a temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit for at least six hours. At that temperature the above microorganisms cannot survive.
--I also recommended the optional addition of salt to the pemmican after it was dried to improve its flavor and to help extend its shelf life.
The reason I am taking the time to share the above information is to help prevent the spread of information that may have been taken out of its original context from the USDA web site and then presented on your web site in a manner that may be somewhat unintentionally misleading. Respectfully, - Grandpappy
--Sir,I must say that I do not recommend the gentleman's pemmican recipe. Unless he adds sodium nitrite and brines the meat, sickness can occur. From the USDA: "Salmonella not only survives drying but also becomes more heat resistant with drying and is more of an issue in non-fermented dried meats, such as jerky, and whole meat cuts, such as dried hams.
nitrates? are overused.. prefer brining.
hi-sugar content will 'keep' even if not sealed.
a wax layer doesn't have the "button center'' which will spring up if the seal is lost [on a steel lid]. You have no warning other than your nose if there is a problem, and botulism is odorless.
--Potting is an early variant of this wax seal technique. Potted meat is cooked, and a layer of hot meat is tightly packed in the bottom of a clean crock. Very hot fat is then poured in to cover it, then, once the fat has cooled and solidified, another layer of meat, another layer of fat, and so on. Walton Feed has an article with much better instructions. The instructions suggest that you cook the meat again, thoroughly, when you take it out of the pot, to kill the bacteria which have inevitably prospered in the crock.
--Salting seems to be a safer alternative to potting, with better potential for longer storage. To salt meat, take a wooden cask or plastic bucket large enough to hold what you need to preserve, and put in the meat in chunks of a pound or two. Pour on a salt brine, strong enough to float a potato. Don't pack tightly, because you want the brine to reach all of the surface of each piece. Weight the meat down slightly so it stays covered. It will take several weeks to pickle. This is a batch process: if you get some more meat to pickle, put the new meat in new brine, then, if necessary, put the old, pickled meat in the new brine, too, on top so it gets used first. Soak the meat in fresh water several times before use to get the salt out. I got these instructions from a fellow who preserved his food that way for years. I've done it once myself, and it made fair corned beef.
--If you are concerned with long term self-sufficiency, investigate ice houses, root cellars, drying, salting and smoking. Don't plan on pouring wax in jars. - Nels T.
--contains protein, fiber, fat, carbohydrates, natural fruit sugars, vitamins, and minerals. It also tastes great because it is a simple combination of meat jerky and your favorite dried fruit.
--To make pemmican you only need three basic ingredients:
1. lean meat,
2. animal fat, and
3. fruit or berries.
--Pemmican has several very important and desirable characteristics:
1. It uses both the lean meat and the fat from an animal.
2. It conveniently stores your summer food harvest for winter consumption.
3. It requires no refrigeration or canning jars for safe long-term food storage.
4. It does not weigh very much because it contains no significant moisture.
5. It is a complete meal all by itself.
6. It is very nutritious and very tasty.
7. It can easily be made in the wilderness without any special cookware or equipment.
--The following recipe uses equal amounts of dried lean meat, dried fruit, and melted fat. However, pemmican is a very flexible food and you can vary the quantities of these three basic ingredients to more fully utilize almost all of whatever food you may have available. For example:
1. Most animals have a lot of lean meat but very little fat. In this situation you should only use just enough melted fat to hold your pemmican together.
2. Depending on the weather conditions the summer wild fruit and berry harvest may be excellent or very poor. Depending on what you actually have available each summer you could use more or less dried fruit or berries in the recipe.
3. During the summer when wild game and berries are widely available you can harvest as much as you can and then process it all into pemmican for winter consumption when little or no food will be available. This is the reason pemmican was such an important survival food for the Native American Indians.
4. If you have more lean meat than you can use, then you can simply convert the extra lean meat into meat jerky.
5. If you have more dried fruit than you can use, then you can simply save the extra dried fruit for winter consumption.
6. If you have very little animal fat, then it is possible to make a simple granola snack for winter consumption by mixing some dried meat and dried fruit together without using any melted animal fat. However, if you have animal fat then you should use it because animal fat is a necessary food for long-term survival.
--Instructions for Making Pemmican:
Basic Ingredients:
1 Cup of Dried Meat
1 Cup of Dried Fruit or Berries
1 Cup of Melted Animal Fat
--Meat: Use deer, moose, caribou, or beef, but not pork. It takes between one to two pounds of fresh meat to make one cup of dried meat. The meat should be as lean as possible. Trim off all the fat. If possible, grind the fresh meat twice. If you don't have a meat grinder, then cut the fresh meat into wafer thin slices about 1/4 inch thick or a little thinner. Then dry the meat using a meat jerky recipe. [JWR Adds: To reduce the risk of Salmonella or E. Coli contamination, meat should be thoroughly salt brined before drying or jerking.] Or you can spread the meat evenly and separately on aluminum foil on a cookie sheet and dry the sliced meat at 180 degrees F for between 6 to 8 hours, or until it is crisp and chewy. Turn the meat strips over after two hours so they will dry evenly on both sides. You do not want to cook the meat. You only want to dry it. If the meat snaps or cracks when bent it is done. If it bends it still contains too much moisture. It it crumbles it is too dry but it can still be used. Grind or crush the dried meat almost into a powder. If you have an electric blender then blend the meat into a fine pulp. (Note: Or you can simply pound dried meat jerky into a powder.)
--Fruit or Berries: Use one or two types of fruit or berries, such as blueberries, huckleberries, currants, raisins, apples, apricots, or cherries. Cut the fruit into thin slices or pieces and allow them to dry in the sun. Or dry them in the oven at the same time you dry your meat jerky. Or use an electric food dehydrator. Grind the dried fruit into a powder but leave some of it a little lumpy to provide for extra texture and taste. Mix the dried meat powder and the dried fruit powder together in a bowl. If you have an electric blender then add the dried fruit to the dried meat in the blender and mix them together.
--Optional Salt: Add a little salt to the mixture to enhance its flavor. Salt will also increase the shelf life of the pemmican.
Other Optional Ingredients: Add a little honey. Or add some minced dried onion for flavor. Or add a few crushed nuts. However, keep on mind that nuts contain oil and that because oil goes rancid, the nuts will shorten the shelf life of your pemmican. When adding these optional ingredients you should begin with a very small batch of pemmican. This will permit you to experiment and determine if the results are agreeable to your family's taste requirements without ruining a huge batch of pemmican.
--Optional Granola Snack: If you have nuts, such as acorns, then a better use for them would be to crush them and mix them with your extra left-over dried meat and dried fruit to make a granola type stack. Granola is easy to mix together if you have the ingredients and therefore it should not be prepared before you are ready to eat it. If you prepare it too soon and one of your ingredients goes bad then it will ruin all your granola. But if you wait until you are ready to eat it, then you can easily detect the bad ingredient and discard it and not put it into your granola mix.
--Animal Fat: Use fresh beef fat or pork fat or bear fat. Animal fat will quickly become rancid and it should be melted (rendered) as soon as possible. Cut the fat into one-inch cubes and melt it over medium-low heat in a small amount of clean rainwater in a clean cook pot. Do not allow it to smoke. If it starts to smoke then you are burning the fat. When the fat is completely melted gradually pour it over the meat-fruit mixture in the bowl and stir until the mixture is well coated and sticks together. Then spread it out like dough and allow it to cool completely. When cool cut it into pieces about 1 inch wide and 4 inches long.
--Storage: If possible, wrap the pemmican in plastic wrap or store it in Ziploc bags or in plastic storage containers with a tight fitting lid. Pemmican can be safely stored for 8 months. If you can keep the temperature between 40 to 75 degrees then pemmican can be stored for several years.
Corn stores best in whole kernels. Once it is cracked, the inner germ is exposed. This decreases its storage life and nutritive value by 80%. Running whole corn through a grain mill at a coarse setting to make cracked corn is quick and easy. A finer setting will yield corn meal.
Unless you have large scale grain bins, one of the most efficient means of storing wheat and corn for small-scale animal feed or human consumption is to buy new galvanized trash cans with tight-fitting lids. If they will be on a damp floor, put the cans up on 2x4 blocks to prevent rust. When galvanized trash barrels go on sale, buy a bunch. Another good storage method is 5 or 6 gallon food grade plastic buckets with gasketed lids. These stack well, but be advised that they are not as vermin-proof as galvanized steel bins or barrels. Determined rats have been known to gnaw their way through plastic food buckets. So if you choose this method, be sure to set traps, and check the buckets once every few weeks for signs of damage. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, do not use utility-type plastic paint buckets. Even if bought brand new these can taint food, because they are often molded using non-food-grade (toxic) mold release agents.
--Grain storage is a crucial aspect of family preparedness. Grain will soon no longer be cheap or plentiful, so stock up!
I'd bet real money that canning lids become excellent barter goods.
Another jar sealing alternative is using paraffin wax. It's not nearly as reliable, but it is reusable to a point and may be more available after TSHTF.
--The most up-to-date directions/instructions/recipes for canning is a product of our tax money (one of the rare good results of our tax money). This is a great book, it costs less than twenty bucks and that includes shipping to the continental U.S. If you do a bad job at canning, botulism has a pretty high mortality rate, meaning that it can kill you the first time. Do it right or don't do it at all.
--Thursday January 3 2008
Sources for Free Survival and Preparedness Information on the Internet, by K.L. in Alaska (get entire?)
Project Gutenberg was mentioned as a good place to go for eBooks.
The Smithsonian Institution is another great resource. They have digitized many older books, maps, and documents in their collection.
Wikisource has a nice collection of free eBooks.
One way to search for books no longer in copyright is to use Google Book Search. Check "full view." If it comes up in the search, it can be downloaded as a PDF file.
A good alternative to Google is the Internet Archive which includes books, images, audio, and more. The Internet Archive also hosts the Wayback Machine, which archives copies of an incredible 85 billion pages from the internet of years past.
Over 100,000 free eBooks can be accessed through Digital Book Index
2020ok is a directory of free online books and free eBooks
The British Columbia Digital Library has an impressive Collection, including dictionaries, encyclopedias, and most importantly, the Holy Bible. It also has a Guide to other digital libraries.
Scribd is an online document library of free research articles, eBooks, and other content.
A great resource for home schoolers is the Internet's largest directory of free audio & video learning resources maintained by LearnOutLoud.com.
Check out the postings of Home Schooling On-line Resources on the The Mental Militia Forums, as well as the "Must Have" Books/reference material topic.
More than 3,200 pages related to the U. S. Constitution can be downloaded from The Founders' Constitution
Firearms For any firearm you own or plan to own, you should have a drawing of its Exploded View, which will help identify parts and how they fit together. One of the most comprehensive collections of Exploded Views is the paper edition of the Numrich Arms Catalog, which in itself is a gold mine of information and very inexpensive for a volume of over 1200 pages.
But if you only need certain Exploded Views, there are many places on the internet where you can download them for free:
Gunuts is a good place to start with hundreds of drawings. Another source is The Okie Gunsmith Shop, which is apparently no longer operating, but you can still download drawings and parts lists from its web site.Big Bear Gun Works has another good list. For pre-WWII firearms, check out Gunsworld. For examples of specific firearms manufacturers, see Remington, Browning, and SKB Shotguns
The book, The Defensive Use Of Firearms by Shane C. Henry is available as a download from rec.guns. An enormous amount of additional gun information is available on the rec.guns web site.
There are several good sources for Military Publications: GlobalSecurity.org has a huge collection of Military manuals.
Try Integrated Publishing for access to millions of pages of engineering manuals and documents.
The U.S. Army Materiel Command maintains the LOGSA web site for access to thousands of Army technical manuals.
The U.S. Air Force maintains the Air Force e-Publishing web site.
As mentioned recently, The Small Wars Journal has a Reference Library of downloadable military documents.
The Brooke Clarke web site has a good guide to accessing military field manuals
Surviving War and Nuclear Attack For a basic guide, download How To Survive A Chemical Or Biological Attack.
Nuclear War Survival Skills, along with some other very interesting books, can be found on the Oregon Institute of Science and Medicine web site. This book includes plans for the Kearny Fallout Radiation Meter (KFM). If you have not bought a radiation meter, you should at least download the book for future reference. You can also get the Free Plans from The Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Nuclear War Survival Skills is also available on the KI4U web site as an online book, but not as a download.
The Equipped To Survive web site has some free ebooks, as well as books for sale: Survival, Evasion, and Recovery and U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76.
The Volunteer Center of Marin County, California has prepared A Guide to Organizing Neighborhoods for Preparedness, Response and Recovery which you can copy from their web site.
Medical Resources The Disease Net has a library of downloadable manuals on survival, weapons, emergency medicine, and less serious subjects.
Virtual Naval Hospital is a digital library of naval, military, and humanitarian medicine
The very important field manual, First Aid For Soldiers FM 21-11 can be downloaded here.
One of the best medical handbooks available is the U.S. Army Special Forces Medical Handbook ST31-91B. It can be downloaded free (as well as additional essential guides) from Delta Gear, Inc.
A newer version of the Medical Handbook, plus more great material can be downloaded from NH-TEMS (New Hampshire Tactical Emergency medical support).
The American Red Cross has some of their disaster guides online for download. For most of their material, you have to go to the local office. Some of it can be copied from the Earth Changes Media Survival Tips page.
The Red Cross Book, First Aid in Armed Conflicts and Other Situations of Violence
The UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency book, The Ship Captain's Medical Guide
Hesperian makes available free downloads of its books for medical treatment in primitive conditions. Two highly respected guides it publishes are Where There Is No Doctor and Where There Is No Dentist.
Here is a direct link to the must-have book Survival and Austere Medicine: An introduction. Australian Survivalist Online has several additional Files for downloading.
The Department of Agriculture has a treasure trove of information for free download. This agency maintains The National Agricultural Library, a collection of free information on Agriculture, Food and Nutrition, and other related subjects.
Another USDA web site is the Cooperative Extension Service. Click on the map to navigate to various Extension offices around the country. Don't limit your search to just your own state. Many of them have invaluable information on animals, crops, construction, food preparation and much more for free download.
The USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) offers downloads about preventing plant and animal diseases, among other topics.
The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) offers Fact Sheets about food handling and preparation, and emergency preparedness.
Other Important Reference Resources The classic outdoor guides, The 10 Bushcraft Books by Richard Graves are available on the Chris Molloy web site. Free manuals for electronic equipment can be downloaded from eServiceInfo.com. Another source is UsersManualGuide.com. For Ham Radio and Test Equipment Manuals, the KO4BB web site has Free Downloads, as well as LINKS to many other web sites with free downloads. A few examples of repair information for outdoor equipment are Penn Reel Schematics, and Mercury outboard parts.
Paid Services In the unlikely event that you can't find free information on the Net to fix that generator or whatever you need to repair, there are web sites that charge for information. As a last resort, you can check Sam's PHOTOFACT service manuals, or RepairManual.com. Hopefully, that won't be necessary.
The foregoing just begins to scratch the surface. Some of these free downloads are also available as books or CDs from eBay, Amazon or from some of the survivalist web sites. That is fine. Sometimes it is easier to just pay the money and buy the book. But nobody can afford it all, and downloading gives you access to millions of pages - much more knowledge than you could acquire through any other method.
Permalink
--Tuesday January 1 2008
Letter Re: Sprouting Techniques
This one Survival And Self-Sufficiency Links has a lot of useful resources,
For sprouting I use a section of the new plastic bug screen material for screen doors. I fold the section up into a flat pouch and pour a measure of seed in then pin the opening closed. To make the pouch I staple around the three closed edges. Then, once closed up I dampen the seeds, roll the screen pouch into a loose cylinder and place it into a coffee can covered with the old plastic cover. I keep a little bit of water, plus what drips off in the bottom of the can to keep the internal atmosphere damp. I just make sure to dampen the seeds as necessary, usually checking once in the morning and evening unless the weather is really dry. - TCD
following method works for me with wheat:
Sprout your seeds in a Mason jar with a thin clean cotton rag fixed over the mouth by an elastic band. To drain, simply pour the water out slowly. Make sure you do not let the entire surface of the cloth become wet, or it will act as a seal. As long as some of the rag covering the mouth is dry, water should flow out without any problems. To refill with water, lift the jar so the cloth touches the tap while filling. All the best, - Roo
--I have to pack them myself, but have been able to purchase much more this way, I have paid about $14-$17 for 50 pounds of wheat berries, we have stored up about 600 pounds so far of Hard Red Winter wheat, Hard White winter wheat, Soft white winter wheat (for cakes and biscuits, tortillas) and Durum (semolina) for pastas, steel cut oats, pinto beans, rice and bulk spices..we make a bulk order once a month. with the price of fuel, we try to order as much as we can afford to make the trip count.
I have collected all my white food grade plastic buckets for free from our local Wal-Mart's bakery (an hour drive) an I add diatomaceous earth [DE] to all to keep the pests at bay...if using the DE make sure it is food grade, it also works to worm farm critters, the bonus being it worms the animals and also cuts way down on the fly population on the back end. We put it on our outdoor cat and no more fleas, he is one happy kitty.
I wear a dust mask to not breath in the dust, as I am mixing it with the grains. If you have eaten or used a pre-prepared biscuit mix, then you have eaten DE.
thanks for all your hard work on this site! - KW
--Sunday December 30 2007
Time and Energy Efficient Cooking, by KBF
I wish to share some valuable information on my personal experiences with the use of two cooking devices which I incorporate into daily homemaking practice when I am attempting to conserve on water and on fuel usage. Both of them are extremely time and energy efficient.
The two kitchen products which have earned their weight in silver in my home are my pressure cookers, and my newest kitchen toys, which come from an old Asian origin and cooking concept, the thermo cooker pot.
I have and use several sizes of pressure cookers. I chose the pot size for use for the job I'm performing based on the fill capacity of the product I am cooking in it. The pot capacity should never be over 2/3rds full. The food is liquid pressure cooked on the basis of requiring very little water or liquid and a minimal amount is lost and released as pressurized steam, thus it cooks evenly, thoroughly, and quickly. Time savings average about one half compared to the usual on the stove top methods. Fuel savings are dependant on the time required for the recipe. I use this method for large vegetable batches, and large cuts of meat, like roast cuts or several chickens and get a finished product that is tender to cut with a fork. My very large pressure pots are mostly used for canning purposes to put up jars of volume batches of seasonal produce, meats, and jellies. Using the pressure cookers overall cuts my actual cooking and canning time by one third, compared to using the open pot boil methods. When you are putting up hundreds of jars, this time efficiency becomes necessity. I have had a few mishaps however over the years. They were character building learning experiences of what not to cook in a pressure cooker. Beans, rice, and whole grain cereals need to be constantly monitored, as the small needle outlet from which the pressurized steam escapes becomes easily clogged, and when it does you have now created a bean bomb! If you're like me and are multitasking in or out of the household, constant sitting to a pot is not time efficient or possible. I have discovered my next favorite device as a result of this need to cook my one pot meal favorite dishes and also to simultaneously free myself to leave to do other equally important jobs. This device allows me to leave the house and come home hours later to a safe, hot cooked meal.
--The thermo cooker pot is actually two pots, one (the cooking pot) is inserted into a second thermo insulated pot and is sealed with a hermetic seal lid. The pots can be found in Asian market stores, online, and from high end kitchen and industrial supply houses and are sold by numerous makers. Some makers sell their pots to other distributors who stick their retail labels on them. More expensive in this case is not necessarily a better pot. Key points of its success for your needs are to consider the following issues when searching to procure one. The pot set needs to be constructed of excellent quality stainless steel in order to maintain heat conductivity and easily clean and withstand staining. The floor of the pot must be constructed of no less than two air-insulated layers. The inner pot's volume size needs to be one that will compromise and accommodate the majority of food dishes you normally prepare, if you desire to own just one size. Think in volumes of servings somewhere between how much soup, stew, arroz con pollo [rice and chicken], or how much hot grain cereal you make in one batch. Waste is non productive and expensive ultimately in time and money. Thermo cooker pots work on the principals of applying fast radiant energy cooking to your prepared dish by using the inner cooking pot on the stovetop. The recipe chosen must be able to be brought up to and kept to a boiling temperature for at least 5 minutes, the longer you can boil it the better. Secondly, this inner pot is covered and then immediately placed inside the slightly larger external thermo chamber pot, it is tightly sealed, and taken off the radiant source to finish the cooking process over the next hour on its own kinetic heat requiring no external fuel source. I leave mine in the warmest location in the house. The food contained inside the thermo chamber continues to cook by conductant heat for the next hour or so at a heat temperature gradient loss of kinetic energy which gradually decreases over 6 hours of time and maintains itself at a warming temperature up to 8 hours. The food will then remain warm to +/- 160 degrees up to 8 hours, this being dependant on normal external ambient room temperatures. I have tested my unit with a thermometer after 8 hours, and it made the grade in 65 degree ambient room temperature. This can be a boon to use in fuel and time conservation modes during TEOTWAWKI. It can also be used inversely chill perishable foods safely for consumption for 6 to 8 hours. Think summer mayonaise and egg based salads or cool fruit salads or transporting fresh farm pot cheeses without ice.
--I have now mastered my pots usage to include making yogurt, soft goat cheeses and tofu successfully by not boiling the milk or soybean curd but by bringing it slowly up to incubation temp for the culture I am using, and then using the thermo pot to finish the process of maintaining the heat source. In the past I used an old wide mouth thermos bottle to do this method but it did not hold enough volume for my family's consumption or barter needs. We also now wake up to fresh hot maple wheat berry cereal in the morning by preparing this before retiring for the night. I have used the thermo pot now on different stove and fuel sources, including wood burning and get pretty consistent result. I have used it even away from home to travel and on hunting trips using the butane camp stove. I have boiled the recipes required water, and dumped in our packaged dehydrated camp food, to either wake up to warm eggs and sausage or to come back from the hunt to eat a great hot meal.
I hope this info will help all the cookies create more efficiency in their survival preparations and also to help them find more enjoyment time to read JWR's great postings and books!
Have a blessed and bountiful New Year!
What am I preparing for I think the economy is going to blow out sooner than later. Like it would not surprise me if it happened in the next 30-to-60 days. How bad it will be and how long it will last?. No clue but history shows major wars start with major economic troubles.
preparedness is more about skills than it is about money. I have a lot of wealthy consulting clients that have heaps of supplies and tools, but I have my doubts about their ability to actually survive when things get Schumeresque. When I ask them about firearms training, they often say that they have the money, but that they don't have the time to attend. What good is a large firearms battery if...
Also I just finished reading this book."Long Term Survival in the Coming Dark Age" by James Ballou. It covers how to successfully bury your stuff, what to bury, how to bury it, and what skills one could use in a post SHTF scenario. I found it to be an interesting read. Although I already know the basics of survival caching. Still a nice overview. A good Cliff Notes-type book. (Clear, precise and straight to the point )
in
her area is (besides her boyfriend) other people who have the the same kind of forward planning outlook, and to network with them. Michelle is an EMT in training to be a paramedic--exactly the set of skills many of would need WTSHTF. Yes, she does want to have a BOB ready to go, but if she were in my area I'd set aside food and goods
for her in exchange for her professional services. In fact, I'd start a fund for the equipment and medical supplies that she would be trained for but might not want to have to lug around everywhere. Perhaps the makings of a small clinic can be set up before the Big Day.
Sometimes we forget that what we have isn't as important as what\who we know.
Keep up the good work, Mr. Rawles!
For instance: While her employer does nothing special for the employees at the holidays, mine does a catered dinner at Thanksgiving, and gives each employee a $20 gift card to the local chain grocery. And about 1 month later, another dinner for Christmas, and a $100 cash bonus. I take both the card and the cash, and use them for our preps, be it beans, bullets, or band-aids. I get something we need or can use.
During the year I do small odd jobs for family and friends, and any cash they give me for that or for gifts goes to buy preps. As for storage, space at our house is at a premium, but we do the best we can with what we have,and we look for useful things and space for storage wherever and whenever we can. For instance: {Locally]. we have a annual [curbside] junk [collection] week.
--Saturday December 22 2007
While not every Latter-day Saint is fully prepared, a percentage somewhere in the mid-teens have done at least a 72-Hour Kit (Bug-out Bag). The Church's preparation web site was simplified as most were overwhelmed when trying to prioritize to prepare. The focus is now on a Three Month Supply of normal items
In support of this, the Church now offers [at cost] a Family Home Storage Starter Kit. Like everything we as the dominant two legged creatures on this orb learn..Food Storage and Preparedness is "line upon line and precept upon precept."
The following is quoted from the Provident Living web site:
"The family home storage starter kit may be used to teach family home storage principles and help individuals get started with longer-term food storage. The kit includes materials that teach the importance of a three-month food supply, water storage, and savings and 6 cans of longer-term food supply items.
--For those people with a budget crunch (almost everyone), suggest that they look into Angel Food Ministries. There is no income qualification, the food is of excellent quality, and there is probably a church near most people that is a part of this ministry. About two months ago, my wife took the Angel Food menu and priced it our at our local supermarket. The brands were the same and the price at the supermarket came to just under double what Angel Food charges.
This isn't charity. Rather it's a wholesale program that allows a family to buy a considerable amount of their monthly groceries at a lower price. I recommend that folks at least go to their web site and check it out for themselves. Cordially, - Jonas
Another way to save on long distance phone bills is to use one's cellular phone on nights/weekends where minutes are unlimited, although this is dependent on having service and the carrier. I have Verizon
"Rambo" Actor Sylvester Stallone Talks TEOTWAWKI and Burmese Genocide in Interview |Main| Letter Re: Communications in Times of Crisis
--local Asian Market. A 50 pound bag of rice sells for under $25. One can easily how much further your survival dollars can actually go when spent correctly...my wife use to think I was nuts I learned a long time ago not to talk politics, guns, etc. with her and in turn she would not ask why each week I throw five extra cans of stew in the cart that never get eaten. However; during hurricane Rita...I am the dad and I must take this kind of thing seriously because if I don't then the sin is 100% on my shoulders.
The following are some of my suggestions on how to protect yourself from the ravages of inflation:
1.) Buy in Bulk
Buy most of your staple foods and groceries at a discount or "warehouse" type stores such as Costco or Sam's Club. Don't overlook the "close-out" and "dented can" stores.Stock up on non-perishable items whenever they are on sale: thing like light bulbs, paper products, bar soap, house cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, lubricants, and so forth. As long as you protect these supplies from theft, moisture and vermin, they are better than money in the bank. (Again, money in the bank is being eroded by inflation.) These are tangibles bought at today's prices, that you can use for many years to come. Here at the Rawles Ranch, we are still using up some spices, light bulbs, and aluminum foil that I bought at a military commissary in the early 1980s--at what now seem like absurdly low prices. My only regret is that I didn't buy more of them! This approach to stockpiling was described in the modern-day classic book "The Alpha Strategy" by John Pugsley. (Download this free book and read it!)
2.) Learn to Barter
Barter, by its very nature, shields you from inflation. Instead of using depreciating paper tokens as a means of exchange, you are directly exchanging a tangible for another tangible, or a service for a tangible, or a service for a service. As I've written previously in SurvivalBlog on several occasions, I do advocate stocking up on extra items for barter. However, it is with the proviso that you do not embark on buying goods dedicated for barter until after you have your family's essential beans, bullets and band-aids squared away, following a well-balanced logistics plan.
Here in The Un-named Western State (TUWS), there is a lot of bartering that goes on, quite informally. I see it all the time: Cartridge Reloading for Snow Plowing, Eggs for Honey, Firewood for Horse Training, and Zucchini for just a smile and a thank-you.
To be useful in barter, choose items that have most or all of the following seven attributes 1.) Have appeal/usefulness to the majority of the citizenry. 2.) Be immediately recognizable. 3.) Have longevity. 4.) Be easily divisible. 5.) Be relatively compact and transportable at reasonable cost. 6.) Have consistent quality. 7.) Have limited availability. Let's discuss each of those briefly, in turn. (get entire?)
3.) Learn Several Valuable (Barterable) Skills
Every family should have at least one home-based business that they can fall back on, on the event of an economic recession or depression. Concentrate on skills rather than goods for barter. The beauty of having skills to barter, is that most of them don't require much raw material. So, unlike barter goods, you will never "run out". By extension, it is best to have a skill that requires very little raw material. A profession or skill that also requires a specialized tool set is fine. However, if the skill also requires delivering a factory-made device to complete each transaction, then you might consider doing something else. (For example, installing burglar alarms might be profitable as long as you have a source of resupply, and as long as the power and telephone networks are functioning. But in a grid-down TEOTWAWKI how long could you continue running such a business?)
--Avoid developing a skill that appeals only to wealthy customers for discretionary spending. Those are the purchases that will be delayed or skipped altogether in an economic depression, Hence, shotgun checkering and engraving are poor choices, but septic tank pumping is a good one.
Concentrate on a business that can be operated without the need for grid power. It is notable that most of the businesses in this category existed in the 19th Century. Who knows? Maybe buggy whip makers will make a comeback in the Second Great Depression
Ideally, you should have two or even three supplementary income businesses that you can fall back on to pay your mortgage and to buy necessities, if you lose your job. Depending on the severity of the coming recession or depression, some home-based business may thrive, while others won't. It is hard to predict which businesses will do well (although we have some clues based on the experience of the 1930s,) so there is safety in redundancy.
4.) Learn How to Pinch a Penny
Here are some suggestions (in no particular order), some of which I've borrowed from "The Encyclopedia of Country Living" by the late Carla Emery. (The Memsahib and I both highly recommend this book.)
Distinguish your needs from your wants.
Research and do some comparison pricing before any purchase of more than $10. Do extensive comparison pricing before any purchase of more than $100.
Never buy on impulse. Plan your purchases well in advance, do your homework, and be patient.
Refer to back issues of Consumer Reports magazine (at your local library) before making a purchase of a major appliance
Develop the habit of dropping by thrift stores, second hand stores, used book stores, and pawn shops.
Find out on which days particular items are discounted at thrift stores. (Often by a system of colored price tags.)
For big ticket items, do lots of comparison pricing via the Internet. If you decide to buy locally, then bring the price print-outs with you, to use as "ammunition" when you dicker.
Buy off season. Buy winter clothes in summer, and vice versa. Buy livestock in October and November, when owners are facing expensive hay purchases if they "winter-over" their stock
Use a clothes line instead of an electric clothes dryer.
Utilize the MSN Autos Web Page data for the best local gas and diesel prices. This is particularly important when you re-fill your cans and drums.
Heat with wood. Cut, haul, split and stack the wood yourself
Buy your guns and ammo at gun shows, not at gun shops. Learn how to dicker for the best prices.
Buy at farm auctions, but beware of impulse purchases and run-away bidding. Make a list of your maximum bids during the preview and and then stick to it religiously. Never bid emotionally, and never jump on on the bidding for an article unless you planned to bid on it before the auction began.
--Build/make/sew things for yourself rather than buying them factory-made
--If you use any national brands, then clip coupons. Keep your coupons well organized (many folks like to use an accordion folder and they keep it handy in their car), and don't lose track of coupon expiration dates.
Buy most items used, rather than new. Never buy a new "big ticket" item like a car or truck "factory new". Be sure to refer to Edmunds.com before making any vehicle purchase, to make sure you aren't getting a "lemon:" model or model-year. If you are buying a used vehicle worth $5,000 or more, then it is worthwhile to pay $8 for a vehicle history report.
Negotiate prices with merchants. It is amazing who is willing to negotiate. (But I've had no luck in talking down bridge tolls. I'll keep trying.)
Spend some of your Saturday mornings at garage sales and yard sales. Dress down when you go, and don't be afraid to negotiate for better prices.
Check Craig's List and your local "penny" or "nickel" classified ad papers frequently for free and bargain items
Avoid fashion trends. Dress and drive modestly.
Find out when there is a curb-side "free hauling" day offered by your local waste disposal contractor. If allowable by local law, cruise through the neighborhoods the night before the scheduled collection with your pickup or trailer. This is the way we found the majority of our small livestock cages.
When buying things from private parties or small businesses, offer other items or your skills in barter.
Watch for free tours at educational places like factories and museums.
If your community has a well-established local currency, then utilize it to the utmost.
Plant a large vegetable garden. Get plant starts for berries and other perennials from neighbors
Cancel your newspaper subscriptions and carefully limit your magazine subscriptions. These days, there is so much news and information available on the Internet free of charge (you are looking at some of it right now) that hardcopy newspapers are for the most part expensive dinosaurs. Two notable exceptions: 1.) If you are a consistent and well-organized coupon clipper. If that is the case, then you might want to get a "Sunday paper only" subscription.), and 2.) Subscribing to a small town weekly newspapers in your retreat locale. Reading one of these papers regularly is important for developing local intelligence and for "fitting in" by being knowledgeable about local geography, personalities, events, politics, and lore.
Change your own oil and make most of your own car repairs.
Buy a food dehydrator. It will pay for itself many times over.
Learn how to do your own canning. Once you have, you'll have no excuse to ever buy another store-bought jar of jam, jelly, or applesauce.
Buy dairy goats or a cow. Sell or barter the excess milk, or feed the excess to your chickens and/or hogs
Cut out needless expenses. (Like those $4 lattes at Starbucks and $20 trips to the movie theater.)
If you have a mortgage at a rate that is more than 1.5 percent higher than the prevailing rate, then consider refinancing. Just beware of any hidden costs and of course avoid Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs.)
Swap CDs and DVDs with friends and relatives or check them out from your local library rather than buying new ones.
Develop a budget, and stick to it.
If you have a credit card then pay it off in full every month. No exceptions. Don't fall into the easy credit trap. Remember, the card is only in your wallet for convenience, emergency expenses (such as car repairs when travelling), and as a means to gain frequent flier miles or points for programs like gasoline purchase rebates. If you recognize that you don't have sufficient self control, then leave your credit card(s) at home--or cut them up.
Make detailed lists of all of your expenses, and scrutinize them weekly. Look for ways to reduce expenses.
Shop around for the lowest car/health/home/life insurance rates. A few hours of research on the Internet could easily save you $500+ per year.
Unless you know for certain that you want a book as a permanent reference, then use the public library or try to find it online. Don't overlook the inter-library loan system.
Get the free Skype software, and encourage the friends that you call often to do likewise. This will greatly reduce your long distance phone bill.
Take advantage of free or low-cot straining available from organizations like the American Red Cross and FEMA. (Just don't be ware of any socialist/statist nonsense that they try to feed you along with the training.)
Learn how to repair small appliances and engines.
Don't buy store-bought meat. Hunt for or raise your own.
Handload your own ammunition.
--Get out of debt and stay out of debt. Paying interest is throwing money away. Forestall making purchases to avoid indebtedness. Instant gratification creates decades of debt.
Proviso #1: Do not attempt to save money by foregoing carrying insurance, or by forestalling any expenses that have an impact on health, hygiene, or safety. For example, if your windshield gets cracked beyond repair, then replace it. If your chimney needs cleaning, don't delay cleaning it. (But of course buy your own brush and rods and learn how to do the job yourself.) If you have a toothache, don't delay in seeing your dentist. (But ask about possibly paying in barter when you do!)
Proviso# 2: Don't be Penny wise and Pound foolish. If you are a highly-paid professional, then take into account the value of your time. For example if you are an anesthesiologist, you should probably find a few more billable cases rather than taking up handloading.
Proviso# 3: Don't skimp on education. That is an expense that will make you money in the long run.
In closing, remember (and recite frequently) this old adage: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
---a girls story: age 8-80:
Monday December 17 2007
Letter Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget
Mr Rawles,
Having read your reply to S.'s letter "Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget" I must say you made my day! It made me realize that I am much better off than Itthought and on the right track.
I am one of those weird (smart?) people who was raised in the city, but for some reason, never belonged. From earliest childhood, I was always "preparing" long before I really knew what for. In other words, I was not your typical "raised in captivity" child. I learned to sew at nine, and spent a lot of time making sleeping bags and fancy wall tents for my Barbies, then set up elaborate campsite in the backyard, complete with chopped firewood, and water storage systems. (I did say I was weird, remember?)
I also used to spend weeks playing dolls with my sister and friends, but not like most girls. We had a favorite scenario in which we ran a huge orphanage which sprung into being because of some horrible disaster. The disaster didn't matter. What mattered was being able to care for all our babies with no power or outside help. (I nearly set the basement on fire once during these episodes)
Later when my family moved to a suburban/rural area, I was finally able to indulge more aspects of my survivalist side. I got into horses. And I mean I lived and breathed horses. Not just the typical horse crazy girl stuff...no, I had to practice loading my severely injured (or dead) friends onto my horse, practiced packing all sorts of gear on my horse, etc.
I began target shooting as a youngster with my father (who also took me on long hikes from the age of six on) but during my teen years I learned how to reload, thanks to a wonderful like-minded guy. We were kindred spirits, and spent hours reloading during the week so we could shoot for hours on the weekends. He taught me how to field strip a .45 Model 1911 in under 45 seconds blindfolded, among other things. ( Can't you just see the headlines if some igh school kids were seen doing this today?)
I began gardening, canning and dehydrating at 16. My mother thought I'd lost my mind when I came home all excited about the fact that the owner of the stable where I kept my horse said I could plant a garden in the old chicken pen. I was sure busy that summer.
Fast forward 6-7 years: I am now married and having babies. After living in dinky houses in town, I convince my husband to buy a house on acreage. We find a wonderful little 800 square foot house on five acres about 20 miles from where we work (which was in a very small town about 20 miles from a large metro area) And the cycle started in my childhood continued.
I raise horses, goats for milk and make cheese, cows for meat, chickens for eggs and meat. I try my hand at rabbits, successfully building a huge herd of breeders, and selling fryers commercially for a couple years before a family disaster forced me to sell. My garden is bigger, and I can enough to see us through every year till the next garden. Pigs are raised on leftovers. We heat only with firewood. Life is busy, but good.
Later, when the kids are bigger, I get into a sport that seemed custom-made for me. Endurance riding. We had moved from our five acre place to a larger spread which bordered on State land, and I began spending hours riding alone for miles every day of the week. (I quit working outside the home when my kids were 2 and 4 years old. I didn't see the point of paying someone else to raise my kids.)
Even some of my endurance friends say I take it to the extreme. I always pack everything imaginable with me: Pistol (and rifle during hunting season) first aid kit, feed for my horse, food for me, shovel, saw, you name it, it's on my horse or myself. Everything except a cell phone. Nearly everywhere I ride a cell phone doesn't work, so why bother? I feel they just give a false sense of security and prevent proper survival thinking.
Fast forward 20 years: I divorce and start over. My kids are grown and I am thoroughly pleased with how they turn out. My daughter learned early on how to do oil changes and tune-ups on the old Ford pickup trucks I always drive. My son took his skills further. He can rebuild any old rig from the ground up. They both know a lot about farm animals and gardening, and both are avid campers. Both shoot, though my daughter can't hold a candle to her brother. He is by far the best shooter I have ever seen. I once watched him shoot a starling through the neck from 75 yards, offhand in the wind with a .22 [rimfire rifle]. The bird was sitting at the top of a 75 foot fir tree, and my son told me beforehand where he was going to hit it. Recently my kids have both come to the conclusion that their survival would be well served by learning even more of Mom's skills. Both (and their other halves) are joining me in the spring to become more proficient in gardening, canning, and we will be raising cattle and pigs together.
I am very lucky to have bought a wonderful 13 acre place with a delightful but tiny 130 year old homesteaders cabin. We have two year 'round springs. We heat with firewood cut here and on many of our wonderful neighbor's places. We have a small orchard, a huge garden (about 3,000 square feet, with room for more) and tons of pasture. I say we because I was very lucky (and smart) to have married again. And I married that wonderful man from my high school years who taught me to shoot and reload! My kids adore him, and though they live in town, they are out here all the time. My husband and I have a very good skill set between us I don't think there is anything we can't do, from blacksmithing to soap-making and all manner of other skills esoteric and arcane.
Conclusion
Emergency preparedness is about making sure a drastic change in society negatively affects you as little as possible. Coffee can help ease such a transition, if simple preparations are made in advance. As with all things, you should prepare for the day when you can't get it anymore, and avoid addiction to it at the same time.
dec.13.2007
JWR Replies: Water should be first and foremost in every family's disaster planning. I would recommend that you start by expanding your stock of stored water, as space permits. Well-washed used plastic soda pop bottles will suffice. Add 1/4 teaspoon of freshly-purchased plain liquid sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) bleach to each two liter bottle. (Be certain that hypochlorite its the only ingredient in the bleach that you buy--do not buy bleach with added scents or other ingredients.) Next, construct your own pre-filter and filter. (Later, when you have more cash, you should buy a more portable Katadyn water filter.)
Instead of buying hay, we swing a scythe for much of it. That is definitely sweat versus dollars! (OBTW, we are currently looking for a horse-drawn hay mower that our horse "Money Pit" can pull.) We either raise or hunt for nearly all of our meat, and we are ramping up to provide the majority of our produce in our garden. Yes, this all takes time. So does butchering, canning and dehydrating after harvest. But consider this: Not only are we pinching pennies, but we are also learning useful skills and building a small scale self-sufficiency infrastructure that will be invaluable WTSHTF...
Preparing for a week long event will benefit you no matter how long the event lasts--be that an hour or a month!
In the same way that preparing for a short duration inconvenience will help ease you through the initial stages of any long term event, preparing for TEOTWAWKI automatically prepares you for the lesser events.
Getting Out:
Plan a fire evacuation route and rendezvous point. Establish emergency contact procedures so that should your family become separated, you each know where to go and who to contact to link up again. This will serve you well for any event which requires exiting the building.
Provssions:
The week of MREs [that D.C. mentioned] is a great start. Should a short term inconvenience scch as Katrina hit "the city" you may need to provide for you family for two weeks or more.
Testing:
Something you are probably familiar with from your defensive training is the idea of testing your gear. The same holds true for all your gear for the whole family. You could start by setting up the tent inside the apartment.
All of these "tests" will open your eyes to opportunities to improve your supplies.
Two final thoughts –
I recommend that everyone stock up on a year's supply of over the counter medicines. Even if you can't get antibiotics, flu remedies may come in real handy if there ever is a pandemic type issue. If a contagious disease is on the crowded streets, the last place you want to be is a pharmacy in downtown. The same holds true of the regular flu season too.
And finally, 9/11/2001 could easily have been a nuclear event instead of a [hijacked] airliner event.
Those of us in the east are downwind of most [nuclear] targets in the US . The free online book "Nuclear War Survival Skills" is a must. Print it and read it. Know how and when to take shelter from fallout. You need not have a shelter in a basement.
8. It provides everyone in the local area with an immediate and helpful answer to anyone who is in need of assistance. No one ever has to say, "No, I can't help you." Instead everyone can provide directions to the nearest charitable organization.
9. Beggars will quickly learn that it is fruitless to beg door-to-door in a local area because anyone who has anything to give has already donated it to the local charitable organization.
10. When the total amount of available charity in an area is not adequate to sustain all the families in that area that need charity assistance, then some of those families will realize it is time to move on to another area where the overall conditions might be more favorable.
In closing may I suggest you read the book written by Pitirim A. Sorokin called "Man and Society in Calamity." It contains historical information about how starving individuals have actually behaved during previous hard times. A condensed summary of his book can be read at my web site: Man and Society in Calamity - Summary.
In short, "...Tasty Bite food is all-natural. It remains fresh for 18 months without preservatives or refrigeration. It's all in the technology we use. The food is cooked and filled into a uniquely designed multi-layer retort pouch. The pouch is then sealed and the food inside is sterilized, using very high heat and pressure. The sealing and the construction of the pouch ensure that no bacteria or other degrading factors can impact the food. This process also ensures greater retention of the food's original aroma, texture, nutrients and flavor.
The retort pouch has a sturdy four-layer wall. Each layer provides a barrier from damage and keeps the food safe:
The outermost layer is polyester (PET).
The second layer is nylon.
The third layer is aluminum.
The innermost layer that comes in contact with the food is a food-grade polypropylene..."
I hope you find this helpful! - CA in Oregon
When dispensing charity to neighbors in a long term TEOTWAWKI situation I would suggest sticking to teach a man to fish type items like fish hooks/nets, game snares, seeds, etc.
Because of their lower cost, here at the ranch we store nearly all bulk grains/legumes/honey and various nitrogen-canned dehydrated foods.
--Given the recent discussion about canning, it seems like sealed tin cans would make an effective Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) barrier. Why not can some inexpensive FRS radios, small transistor radios, and other electronic items in a standard soup-size can? Can some lithium batteries, and you'll be all set. By the way, it would probably be a good idea to make sure that the lid and can have good electrical contact. Some cans might be lacquered/coated, so it might be wise to check the lid/can continuity with an Ohm meter.
properly stored food item could be good to consume well past its 'expected' expiration date.
Sometimes discoloration (for instance) is not a show stopper. Do you or your readers know of some simple 'freshness test' to ensure that a given food product is good or not (or is that a stupid question)?
I can start with what I gathered from the Internet:
- Baking powder
Freshness test: Mix 1 teaspoon with 1/3 cup of hot water. It it foams vigorously, then it still has rising power.
- Baking Soda
Freshness test: Mix 1 1/2 teaspoons in a bowl with 1 teaspoon of vinegar. It it fizzles, then it will still help leaven a food made with flour when it is cooked.
- Oil (olive)
Freshness test: An unpleasant smell or taste indicates the oil is rancid or oxidized.
- Shortening
Freshness test: Stored too long it will go rancid and develop a bad taste and odor.
- Spices (grounded)
Freshness test: Smell a ground spice to check if aroma is potent.
- Vinegar.
Vinegar sold commercially is pasteurized. Therefore an unopened container should last indefinitely when stored in a cool and dark place. Once opened however, vinegar should last about 3 months if tightly
sealed.
Freshness test: Any sediment that develops can be strained out.
Vinegar should be clear and look clean, not cloudy. If mold develops later, throw the vinegar away.
Spare parts for firearms are heavily greased (sometimes placed in vacuum packed plastic, depending on size and function of items). Radio parts, electrical parts, portable survival kits, gold/silver coins, sewing kits, seeds, vitamins, medical supplies, small tools, copies of important documents/pictures/owners manuals, etc.
Call it overkill but some items will have 6+ barriers to insure that if I don't dig it up for 20 years, it should still be intact. (Grease, plastic, (some times desiccant or O2 absorbers depending on the item), the can itself, a can coating (I have experimented with polyurethane, rubber car undercoating, shrink wrap, and wax (like you would wax a leg hold animal trap).
This is then placed in either a 5 gallon bucket or ammo can. Ammo cans are sprayed with rust neutralizer, sprayed with car undercoating and then the rubber gasket is sealed (often times with more desiccant or O2 absorbers inside). Ammo cans are then sometimes placed in a 5 gallon bucket. 5 gallon buckets are merely sealed with mastic or some kind of caulking. Most of the time I place the ammo can or 5 gallon bucket in a suitable industrial garbage bag and bury.
I label all the items on the outside of the can with either the original labels or something I printed out. If I use a permanent marker, and later wax or polyurethane the can, the labeling can sometimes run or dissolve.
On several larger items I have performed some of the barrier practices and placed them inside a 30 gallon plastic barrel and sealed it. One contains nothing but animal traps, another tools, and yet another full-sized cream separator with parts. Why go to all this trouble? Unfortunately, our getaway stands between the good old farming families and a few families that have made meth and marijuana their main sources of income. Things of value left around tend to walk off.
After all that, I "hope" that my caches or pantry will be around when I need it most. Let me know if you or your readers think I have left any other barrier method out of my system?
A.T. in Illinois (land of humidity and precipitation)
--JWR Replies: Thanks for those suggestions. One important note: Seeds should never be vacuum-packed. They are living organisms, and they will die in a vacuum. Air canning or bag sealing is fine but don't vacuum can or pack them!
preparations need to also prepare a place away from home so they can G.O.O.D. and not have to face these unhappy choices.
On a different note: Some years ago, I read an article in a Farm magazine reporting that most large-acreage farmers didn't have their own gardens. The article was praising the virtue of having a garden and quoted a few farmer's wives waxing poetic about their little plots. I couldn't believe it--farmers being encouraged to do a little self-help farming!
So, you may escape to your retreat only to find neighbors stopping by for a handout even there. Better start preaching self-reliance a little more vigorously,
1) The primary benefit of the smoking process is that it coats the meat (most commonly pork) with a smoke residue that discourages flies. Flies are notorious for laying eggs on hams. These eggs develop through larval stages. The most widely known larval stage is, in the southern U.S., called the skipper. Skippers will readily ruin a country cured ham. Infestations of skippers are hindered by the process of smoking the pork in smokehouses.
2) The secondary benefit of the smoking process is that it imparts a delightful aroma and flavor to the meat that is enjoyed by many people.
Salt licks were, at one time, so critical for acquiring salt (and naturally attracting game) that they still appear on maps. Some towns even carry a name associated with salt, such as Salt Lick, Kentucky.
always edible plants all around you, no matter where you are. Usually within arms reach! Case in point: The Pine Tree.
Pine needles can be easily brewed into tea which contains many nutrients and vitamins. Pine cones can be roasted over a fire (you did start a fire already, right?) to open the cone and access the seeds inside. In a longer term situation…those same seeds can also be ground into a type of course flour. One can also east the inner bark of Pine trees if nothing else is available. And that's just the common Pine tree, which grows almost everywhere! Speaking of Tree bark: remember that Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) was originally derived from teas made from the inner bark of the Willow tree.
Anyway, you get the point. A little study on the matter can go a long way toward making you self sufficient as far as food is concerned, by enabling you to supplement your dry-stores (you do have food stores, right?) with fresh greens providing vitamins and nutrients year round. Linda Runyon's "Of the Field" Web Page
WildwoodSurvival.com/plastic is too permeable to retain the CO2 exclude oxygen for more than a few months at a time. I have recently acquired some oxygen barrier bags and oxygen absorber packs to protect the contents better.
I bought some grain in 5 gallon tin cans, not well sealed, in the early 1980s. I stored them in the warm, humid conditions on the east coast for 20+ years. After 10 years, I tried grinding some of the red wheat and my Mom made bread with the whole wheat flour. The taste was slightly off, but not so that it was inedible. After 20+ years, I tried boiling some to make a pilaf (boiled red wheat pilaf is one of my favorites). Again, the flavor was off, but not much different than after 10 years. I think that whole oats would store as well as the red wheat. My folks wouldn't permit us
to throw out the wheat and are slowly eating it. The one can of other grain (I think that it was rye) that I bought with the lot was infested with weevils.
--Rancidity of oils is a free radical oxidation process. Generally speaking, free radicals are toxic. I think that it is safe to say that rancid oils are too, at least to some extent. Our bodies are adapted to manage small level of free radicals, since they are present all of the time. In fact, one of the main benefits of exercise, and to the extent that it is beneficial, alcohol
consumption, is that they both create toxic free radicals in the body. The body response to oxidative stress is to express enzymes that counter the damage so effectively that the net
result is beneficial (at least in moderation). The effect of calorie-restricted diets is similar.
I once ate some rancid wheat germ, being too young and foolish to realize that it was spoiled. It gave me the worst headache, by far, that I have ever had. Caution with rancid fats is strongly
advised. Sincerely, - John Galt
So you can see that it will take nearly twice as much rolled oats to get a similar nutritive benefit of 1/2 the amount of dry steel-cut oats. Thus it will take more storage space for the same amount of caloric value. Additionally, to consider this solely from a price point of view does not pan out either.
--As for storage time, the shelf life of a steel cut oats is much longer than any processed version, as rolled oats is more prone to meal-worms or becoming rancid. If a person really wanted to get serious, just buy the whole-grain oats and use your grain mill to prep it. The ultimate test is to prepare the same amounts of rolled and steel-cut for breakfast, two days in a row. You'll find yourself anxiously awaiting that mid-morning coffee break, after having eaten the rolled oats! - Mark in Chicago
JWR Replies: I think that most of what you have stated is correct, although the glycemic numbers go out the window once you apply a big glob of honey (as I do) or a heaping teaspoon of brown sugar (as most folks do). Where I take exception, however, is with your comments on storage life and rancidity. Meal worms are an issue only with grocery store packaging. When stored in plastic buckets with either oxygen absorbing packets or when using the dry ice method, both products are equally resistant to attack by insects or insect larva. Rancidity is primarily caused by fat content. Steel cut oats are higher in fat than rolled oats. The higher fat content of steel cut oats makes them more prone to going rancid than rolled oats. But, admittedly, at the same time the nutritional value of rolled oats drops a little faster in storage than steel cut oats. The end result is that the practical storage life for either product is about the same for both in cool climates. But in hot climates, where rancidity is more of an threat, rolled oats are preferable.
--Where does all of this reasoning about processing alternatives leave us? It leaves us missing two essential points. Let's back up a bit:
1.) The real key to self sufficiency is having both storage foods and the ability to grow your own grains and vegetables. If you are worried about nutritional value, then nothing beats freshly grown! We should consider storing non-hybrid seed of equal or perhaps greater importance than food storage. Growing a garden and raising livestock are the main things that will provide our sustenance in a very long term grid-down scenario.
And,
2.) If you have plenty of fuel for cooking on hand (to allow for longer cooking time of minimally processed oats) then it is probably best to store whole oats. (But again, with whole oats rancidity might be a problem in hot climates.) Any processing that breaks the outer hull reduces the potential storage life and starts to reduce the nutritive value of grains, including oats. Storing whole wheat of course necessitates having a home mill, so you can cut your own oats in small batches as needed. So in addition to a nice stone burr mill for grinding wheat flour (which you probably already own), you will also need a traditional kitchen coarse grinder (such as a Quaker City Grinder). Several types of grain mills and grinders are available from Lehmans.com. and Ready Made Resources. Traditional coarse grinders can often be found at garage sales for under $10. I once bought one for just $2. With prices like that, you should probably buy several. Leave one of them set up for grinding meat, and another with the proper plates installed for cutting oats.
Heat sealed packages are fine for ammo. Just don't vacuum seal them.
Friday November 2 2007
Letter Re: Eating The Food That You Store
my mottos is: "Eat what you store and store what you eat." I don't suggest going on a Spartan diet, just for the sake of living entirely on foods that store well. But regularly using a good portion of your storage foods has multiple benefits, such as:
1.) Efficient rotation.
2.) Minimal waste due to food passing their expiry dates.
3.) A digestive system that is accustomed to storage foods. (This represents one less stress to go through, WTSHTF.)
4,.) Cooking expertise with storage foods. Cooking skills do not develop overnight. Two recommended books are Cooking with Home Storage and Making the Best of Basics
5.) Economy. If you eat foods that you buy in bulk, you will be eating cheap, in some cases amazingly cheap. For example, consider that rice in small bags sometimes sells for $4 a pound, but if bought in 50 pound sacks and repackaged it costs just a fraction of that.
JWR Replies: The advantages of steel cut oats are marginal. They do have slightly more nutritive value than rolled oats, but certainly not enough to justify their substantially higher price! Rolled oats are typically steamed, rolled, and then re-steamed and finally toasted dry. The steel cut variety are less heavy processed, so they have just a bit more nutritive value. They also supposedly are a bit more flavorful, but I guess my "Fresh Off the Turnip Truck" palate is not very sophisticated, because I can't taste much difference. Oh yes, I should also mention that when cooked steel cut oats also swell up more than rolled oats.
All in all, I recommend buying rolled oats for storage. If it means the difference between supplying one family versus supplying two families for the same money, then I'm all for quantity! With rolled oats, you typically get more twice as much for your money. And BTW, from what I've read, there is no significant difference in shelf life between the two.
Saturday October 27 2007
Letter Re: Phases of the Moon and Deer Hunting
James,
Ungulates (cattle, deer, antelopes, camels, deer, goats, pigs, sheep, as so forth) daily routines are keyed to the moon. People's routines are keyed to the Sun. The moon cycles each 28 days, the sun in 30 or so days.
Each day, the sun is always somewhere near high noon, i.e. 50% past sun-up, at 12:00 sun time (duh). However, the moon can be at 'high noon' in moon time at any given hour, i.e. at 9:00 a.m./3:00 p.m., etc.---because the moon has a shorter cycle.
Recent satellite telemetry studies on collared white tail does and bucks across North America established hard scientific proof of deer movement. Each morning, deer will move from low ground to the highest grounds and hide during daylight in the highest and densest locations. Each night fall, the deer will move to the lowest and most open areas. That is an established scientific fact, as gleaned from the telemetry studies. The scientists surmise the basis for such movements is that deer see exceptionally well at night, i.e. they enjoy a visual edge over the predators on the dark nights. However, during day time hours, both predator and prey see equally well; therefore, deer hide in the dense stuff in daylight. Additionally, deer have a keen sense of smell and because warm air rises, at day break deer go high and hide, thus accomplishing concealment and the ability to sniff out on the rising thermals any potential predatory threats.
Now, because deer are ungulates, i.e. cud chewers, they must chew their cud 'X' number of hours a day or they die. Most of this is done while bedded down (not sleeping though). They cannot chew their cud while in transit though. The telemetry studies confirmed that for 18 hours a day, deer are bedded down, i.e. the net sum of the time the deer are either up high on the ridges during daylight or in the open flats down low at night.
The telemetry studies established also that the deer 'feed' actively, i.e. their breakfast time/dinner time/ lunch time, when the mood is directly over head (i.e. when it is high noon in moon time) or when the moon is directly underfoot, (i.e. midnight in moon time).
This 'active feed time' is only about two hours each day, i.e. they fill their bellies twice daily and chew their cud the rest of the time, allowing of course the time it takes them to move to and from feeding areas and the time they actually 'sleep'. Unlike people though, deer snooze about 3-4 hours, chew their cud at regular intervals when awake, take time to travel at daylight to higher ground, and take time to travel to lower ground at dark----depending on the 'moon-time', the deer will 'actively feed' along their given travel routes.
Interestingly, and keeping the theory and scientific fact in mind, with a 'full moon', deer move less at daylight and stay in dense cover, especially when it is at night or the early a.m. hours. So to all who hunt with gun/camera, knowing the forces of nature that dictate animal travel patterns, one can surmise when and where animals, both predator and prey, can be found. Yes, predators' travel patterns can be determined by tracking 'their' dinner plates as they move around the landscape!
There is an excellent book that goes through all of the above, titled Moon Struck; Hunting Strategies That Revolve Around the Moon, by Jim Murray. BassProShops sells this book. Tell your hunting buddies about this and they will thank you beyond words! It is the ultimate resource for tracking the moon phases for the very short interval of deer season. Thanks! - Matt B.
--Thursday October 25 2007
US Food Riots Much Closer Than You Think, by Robert Felix
The only people who know about this are those who are involved in the production and distribution of the food supply and there are very, very few of them number-wise. And most of them haven't put two and two together yet, either."
JWR Adds: Do you have plenty of stored wheat and a wheat grinder for your family? If not, then contact any of our advertisers that sell storage foods, pronto. These include: Freeze Dry Guy , JRH Enterprises, Ready Made Resources, Safecastle, and Best Prices Storable Foods. (Be sure to also store plenty of rice, beans, and honey.) Have you stored a good assortment of heirloom variety (non-hybrid) garden seed that is less than three years old? If not, then contact the Ark Institute or the Seed Savers Exchange.
Dumping of US Dollar Could Trigger "Economic September 11" (Posted August 29, 2005) »
--Sunday October 21 2007
Letter Re: Plan B -- Your Bug-Out Route
Mr. Rawles,
In the event of a natural or manmade disaster you may need to retreat despite extensive preparations at your base of operations, whether in suburbia or in the mountains. You may find yourself in a desperate situation; facing forest fire, fallout from a malfunctioning nuclear power plant, terrorism, organized bands of looters or an invading army. Where will you go? How will you get there? What is your route?
Whether you have been preparing for years or weeks you need a Plan "B". Identifying the threat will help you determine the safest route and mode of transportation to a pre-selected alternative location(s); a location with several months of water, food, fuel and shelter. If you need to leave your base of operation quickly in an event like a forest fire or malfunctioning nuclear power plant then a pre-planned route on back roads with a well stocked bug-out vehicle may be the answer. But, what happens if the roads are unsafe or impassible? With good backpacking equipment or properly outfitted bike and bike trailer you can carry about two weeks of food, tent, sleeping bag and other necessities. What are you going to do after two weeks?
I pre-planned my backpacking and biking bug-out routes with the intent of avoiding populated areas and main roads. These routes are predominately on logging roads, hiking trails and/or through the bush as circumstances dictate with a pre-positioned supply cache approximately every 25 miles. Close to each cache location are pre-selected camping spots located in the thickest and most remote cover available with a nearby water source. Each cache would provide a minimum (1) week re-supply of food and white gas fuel (no fire, no smoke) allowing me to continue on to my destination or re-group and/or recuperate. Every 50 miles or so I would have shelter building materials, tools, ammunition, water filter, fishing and trapping equipment in addition to food and fuel to allow for a longer stay. One cache would include an old canoe for a major river crossing or travel. Flexibility in a plan "B" could provide you with a plan "C" and "D".
I plan to use 5 gallon plastic buckets with Mylar or plastic liners inside heavy plastic 55 gallon trash drum liners buried at least two feet below the surface of the ground at cache locations. I plan to use a mix of foods; store bought goods, meals ready to eat (MREs) and individually packaged freeze dried backpacking meals. These locations would be accessible if traveling by vehicle or bicycle or foot route(s). I consider these caches to be "throw away" and would continue to add new buckets/new caches yearly as time and money allow. When considering a plan "B" destination I chose a location several hundred miles away should circumstances require relocation from my home region with the built-in option of returning home along the same route.
Here in the northern tier of the country winter travel must be considered a possibility, being an unprepared refugee in the middle of a sub-zero cold snap would not be pleasant. Being prepared means layered winter clothing, winter footwear, winter camping equipment and plenty of white gas or unleaded gasoline stove fuel to melt snow or boil water. Expect to carry a 60 to 80 pound pack. My plan includes spending a winter (December thru March) away from my base of operations. A bug-out route /cache plan may allow you to take control of your situation and reduce your chances of becoming a refugee, internee or casualty in a desperate situation. Seeking the Lord God Almighty's protection, salvation and will for your life through prayer in Jesus' name will allow Him to take control of your situation whatever the circumstances are!!! - Jeff S. in New Hampshire
JWR Replies: Don't feel overwhelmed. Just make a "list of lists" and start preparing systematically.
--Friday September 14 2007
A Trip to the Yucatan--Observations of Mayan Primitive Living, by Michael G.
(get entire!?)
"They may not have all of the conveniences that we are used to, but they have shelter and food and children, and perhaps they are happier than we are."
8.12.07
So I did a search on "Thermos cooking" and found that Kurt Saxon has published an online article about this topic. (I had looked at his front page before but hadn't dug much further.)
This may be a valuable item for a Bug-Out Bag (BOB) or a get-home-bag.
sheep!:Electric fences can be even less obtrusive. For Grid Down preparedness, you would of course install a photovoltaic (solar) fence charger, such as the Parmak brand. Be sure to follow the fence charger installation instructions carefully, especially those regarding grounding rods.
JWR Replies: I recommend the Engel brand 12 VDC refrigerators sold by Safecastle. A modest-size photovoltaic power system, such as the 520 watt 4-panel packaged "cabin" system produced by Ready Made Resources would provide plenty of power to run a compact Engel DC refrigerator (such as Engel's 22 quart capacity MT27) plus a flashlight battery charging tray and a couple of small lights.OBTW, for some other useful suggestions on insulation,
How much of your preparedness stockpile should you set aside for charity? Generally I'd recommend at least a tenth. That is in line with the tradition of tithing, which has its roots in the Old Testament law of Tzedaka.The Bible says that you provide for your immediate family first, then your extended family, and then your local community, and so on.
I also think that your average criminal element and the people that panic WTSHTF can be overwhelming for those of us that live in large cities but [that] have retreats on stand-by. Hence my preceding statement. If you do live in a large urban area, you don't have any time to waste dealing with family and friends that chose to ignore you and their own obligation to be prepared. Hours and even minutes could be what saves you and your immediate family--[the difference between] surviving or becoming someone's victim. That's my 2 cents.
Why are we storing all these beans, Band-Aids and bullets? Thanks. - Joe
--JWR Replies: I believe that in the near future we will see a deep economic depression similar to the 1930s, with massive unemployment and major stock market losses. It will most likely be triggered by the current Liquidity Panic, or perhaps by a Dollar Panic that will follow soon after. Crime rates will increase substantially, particularly in urban and suburban areas. This depression may last a decade or more. But the chance of a complete societal collapse (with long term failure of the power grid and total breakdown of law and order and long distance commerce) is not very likely. There is perhaps a 10% chance of that. Be ready, nonetheless. Your storage food may come in very handy if you lose your job.
Tuesday August 28 2007
Letter Re: Alcohol Stoves
Jim,
I found this very cool German-made alcohol stove called the Turm Touring.
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Sunday August 26 2007
Letter Re: Ezekiel Mix--a Complete Survival Food
Jim and readers,
Many of you that have read the Bible remember Ezekiel in the Old Testament. Ezekiel 4:9 says "Take thou unto thee wheat, barley, beans, lentils, millet and fitches (spelt), and put them into one vessel and make thee bread thereof."
This diet sustained Ezekiel in the desert for 390 days. A modern day interpretation of the Ezekiel recipe calls for the following: 20 parts wheat, 12 parts Spelt, 4 parts Hulled Barley, 2 parts Hulled Millet, 2 parts lentils, 2 parts Pinto Beans, 1 part Great Northern Beans, 1 part Kidney Beans.
Modern Food scientists have found that Ezekiel Bread is surprisingly complete in nutrients, containing all 8 essential Amino Acids. It only lacks the vitamin provided by sunlight that converts cholesterol in the skin into Vitamin D, which is then absorbed into the bloodstream.
Ezekiel Mix can be ground into flour to make Ezekiel Bread, used to make Soup, Stews or Porridge. Ezekiel Flour can also be added to other bread flour recipes to enhance nutrition.
You can make your own Ezekiel Mix, or do as we do. We purchase the mix from Walton Feed. They sell Ezekiel Mix in 25 pound bags, #10 cans with oxygen absorbers and Super Pails. (6 gallon air tight plastic food grade pail, containing the mix in a sealed mylar bag with oxygen absorbers.)
To grind the mix into flour you must use a grain mill. Because of the beans in the mix, you cannot use a stone mill because it will plug up the stones.
Ezekiel Bread Recipe (makes three loaves)
5-1/4 cups of Ezekiel Flour
or,
Grind in a Grain Mill:
2-1/2 cups of Wheat
1-1/2 cups of Spelt
1/2 cup of Barley
1/4 cup Millet
1/4 cup Lentils
2 Tablespoons Great Northern Beans
2 Tablespoons Kidney Beans
2 Tablespoons Pinto Beans
Measure into large bowl:
4 cups of warm water, (note if you have chlorine in your water it may kill the yeast and bread may not rise)
1 cup honey
1/2 cup of oil
2 Tablespoons of yeast
Mix and set aside for 5 minutes until frothy
Add 2 teaspoons of salt and all the flour
Mix with spoon until stretchy and elastic, about 7 minutes
Since this is a batter-type bread, you must use bread pans. Pour into 3 greased bread pans in even amounts.
Set oven to the lowest temperature and let rise 15-20 minutes. Level should be within 1/2 inch of the top of the bread pan. Do not let it rise any more or you will have a major gooey mess in your oven. Do not open oven or bread will fall from the cool air.
Turn oven heat up to 350 degrees and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Enjoy!
When making stew, simmer for 8 to 10 hours on low heat or use a pressure cooker for 3 to 4 hours. You can also soak the mix overnight.
You may wish to consider storing extra Ezekiel Mix to hand out as charity as it is inexpensive and easily stored. - PED
Permalink
---Tuesday August 14 2007
Four Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet
Goose confit and duck confit were made as a way of preserving the meat from birds slaughtered for foie gras. Birds are plucked, cleaned and sectioned, the fat from around the internal organs is saved and the skin is left on the carcass. Pieces are then liberally sprinkled with salt and whatever other spices one might wish to apply (thyme, rosemary, black pepper and garlic are all good choices). The heavily salted sections are then held overnight in a cool place, for most that would be the fridge but traditionally it would be either a root or wine cellar. The next day, the excess salt is shaken off and the pieces are cooked in a dutch oven over low heat for 2 to 3 hours uncovered. The fat will melt and should be allowed to get hot enough to gently boil, but not hot enough to smoke. As the fat cooks it will clarify. When it's finished, strain half the fat into an earthenware container, let the fat cool until it begins to firm up then lay the pieces of cooked meat on the fat in a single layer and arrange them so they don't touch the sides of the container, now pour the rest of the fat over the meat. Cover the container and leave the confit in a cool place for up to one year. Confit can be reheated or eaten cold, additionally the fat is commonly used as either a spread or to fry potatoes in. Domestic birds fattened on grain (they do not have to be force fed) will have more than enough fat but wild ducks and geese probably won't yield enough fat to cover the whole bird so, either supplement the fat with lard or just preserve the thighs and legs.
I noticed that the Walton Feed web site has a description of meat potting, that's basically the same process minus the salting step. So if salt isn't available you might be able to get some short term preservation with just the fat.
If all of this seems like a big hassle there is a French foie gras company, Rougié, that sells canned duck confit. Rougié says the shelf life is 4 years. They also sell big cans of duck and goose fat, but I've never seen those on this side of the Atlantic. - B. from New York
JWR:
Something anyone with a couple of cows or more found indispensable was a cream separator in the 30's Particularly where it pertains to making butter.
James:
---To get to the survival bottom line for me first – the long-term storage of food oils and pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and health food products and the long-term storage of live local heirloom seeds plus the short-term storage of venison, beef and fish have set many of my equipment investment decisions here on the farm. I believe the most critical pieces of survival gear are two very efficient electric chest freezers and a small efficient electric upright freezer and a way to power them inside a survival envelope. My freezers are electric because I would not have a propane/ammonia freezer anywhere within the survival envelope. My propane generator and propane freezer are in a barn about 400' away (not one used for animals, but one used for equipment) with an underground propane tank. If a propane/ammonia freezer explodes or leaks ammonia, it will most likely to render a shelter unusable for a critical period of time (days not hours). My propane freezer and propane generator sit unused in the far equipment barn waiting for a time when power consumption may become critical. While the price of the wire alone from the barn to my pump and generator was $1,500, it was worth every penny for long-term security and short-term quiet during power outages. Recent solar electric pricing changes have switched me even further toward electric with propane planned mainly for convenience and the possibility of a nuclear winter.
My main long-term food oil stored is frozen 31.5 oz. (1 qt.) plastic-jarred LouAna coconut oil (92% saturated) bought at Wal-Mart or Sam's Club. I also store a smaller amount of frozen unsalted clarified butter that I have processed myself to add taste to my diet when I feel it is critical. Most of the Essential Fatty Acid/food oil academic studies of saturated oils and cholesterol have used lard (39% saturated) as the "straw man" saturated oil.
--Monday August 13 2007
Letter Re: Food Reserves and Summer Kitchens
Our freezers are stocked with meats, fish, butter and other perishables such as chocolate bars, nuts and dehydrated fruit. We have a commercial grade vacuum packer and everything that goes into the freezers is vacuum-packed and labeled. Hint: When vacuum-packing fish, freeze it before packing,
Hoping for the best, planning for the worst. -beter 1y-erly than 1dy late.
Friday August 10 2007
Two Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet
It's a company in Solon, Ohio, called "Oils By Nature". They produce their own oils with the lowest amount of refining
It helps the cream to rise if you can let the milk set out at room temperature for a while, but it will be easier to skim when it's cold. Also, use a large jar (gallon if you have one) with a wide mouth. The soured milk left after skimming the cream can be used in baking, made into cheese, or fed to pigs, chickens, or dogs.
It also helps to have goats with high-fat milk -- Jim mentioned Nubians, and it's true that of the large dairy breeds they have the highest butterfat content. But Kinder goats, Nigerian Dwarfs, and the crosses of Nigerian with large breeds (for 'mini' goats) all have higher butterfat than any of the large breeds of goats, except possibly for Boers, which aren't usually milked, but can be. A quart jar of Kinder goat milk will have an inch of cream on the top in just a couple of days, and a gallon jar may have two or three inches after a week. That's about a quart, enough to make a good amount of butter.
The other solution to the fat problem that I didn't see mentioned was geese. Geese were the traditional fat source for people who didn't use pork, and also among some who would use pork if they could get it but found it easier to feed geese. Geese require much less grain than pigs do, and have much better-tasting fat than sheep or goats (the fat from sheep and goats has other uses, though, such as tallow for candles -- because it's a hard fat -- or for soap making). They are also very hardy, able to survive down to 100 degrees below zero, according to an extension agent in Fairbanks who I once talked to. They are good watchdogs, too, though are a little too aggressive to have around small children. - Freeholder
--Wednesday August 8 2007
Three Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet
it was informative but I felt it left out a very viable source of animal fat: The Groundhog. While it may be a rodent, it only eats plants and an occasional insect. The meat is good but greasy since groundhogs actually hibernate.
Thanks for posting the fat question. As to pressing the seeds for oils, wouldn't it be better to keep them as seeds? I think that they would last longer and they can be planted. Also, shortenings like Crisco are not only not useful as fats to the body but outright harmful.
last 8-10 years if properly packaged, and if it has preservative anti-oxidants in it.
OliveOilSource.com, olive oil suffers no ill effects when frozen.
I need some advice on storing fats and oils. I have read that the shelf life these essentials can be extended by keeping them in an air tight container, and avoiding exposure to heat and light, but even then the shelf life of
I found this link on making your own seed press out of a metal frame and a three ton jack. It also gives instructions on how to dehull the sunflower seeds with a grain mill, as well as winnowing them with a vacuum cleaner.
I hope your readers find this information helpful. - Tim R.
One of the TEOTWAWKI issues we must contend with is where to get our oils and fats. Historically, sources of sustainable fats and oils included dairy, animal fat, nuts, vegetables (olives), seeds and certain legumes (peanuts). L
This leaves plants like peanuts and seeds such as sunflower.legumes and seeds supply essential fats and oils!cooking oil and shortening must be added to their storage program
readers that avoid pork, I'd recommend raising sheep or emus. Emu oil is amazing stuff. Anyone that has ever butchered an emu (as I have) can tell you that there is a tremendous amount of oil stored in an adult emu. Fish raised in ponds are another possibility. Anyone considering taking up aquaculture should consider raising at least one particularly oily species, such as shad, just as a source of fish oil.
Egg yolks are another important source of fat. This is yet another reason to keep a laying flock.
Growing peanuts and sunflower is an option in much of North America, and olive trees is viable for folks that live in mild climate zones. Do you have an oil press?
Hunting isn't much of an option
Rabbit meat is particularly low in fat. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, a diet consisting of mostly rabbit meat will lead to slow starvation. Venison by itself is quite low in fat. so pork-fat added.
A diet that has too much lean meat can lead to both severe digestive problems and even malnutrition. If you plan to depend heavily on wild game or livestock that you raise, then be sure to provide for some bulk fiber in your diet. To provide this fiber, you must ether sprout it, grow it in your garden, or store it. Don't overlook this aspect of preparing your survival larder!
minutes to read this article: Guts and Grease: The Diet of Native Americans. American Indians were famous for hoarding fat. Bear grease and fat from beaver tails were both particularly sought after. (And BTW, they have multiple uses including lubrication, medicinal uses, and even as a source of fuel for lighting.) One of my favorite books is The Last of the Mountain Men, a biography of Sylvan Hart (a.k.a. "Buckskin Bill"). Hart was an Idaho
every 18 months completely rotate your supply:. Donate the unused portion of your stored stock of cooking oil and shortening/lard to your local food bank--or if it has gone rancid, set it aside for making biodiesel, candles or soap. (Speaking of soap making, be sure to stock up on plenty of lye (sodium hydroxide). Until about three years ago, lye was sold in the US as drain cleaner, under several brand names including Red Devil. Sadly, lye is no longer widely available in the US
The other thing that you can do is buy a case or two of canned butter, once every three years.
shortening, its shelf life can be extended by re-packing it in Mason-type canning jars. Some brands of lard are still packed in all-metal cans, which provides a longer shelf life.
that you must either; a.) relocate to an area with abundant wild game, or b.) buy more acreage so that you can grow sunflowers and raise swine or cattle. To be the best prepared, you should pursue both.
Friday August 3 2007
The Coming Hard Times--Wake Up Call!, by Dr. T.
1. Become fanatical about saving money and stocking up on anything that will store for a long time. Get it organized, and labeled, and learn to manage it well.
2. Be quiet about this and find a way to do this without calling attention to yourself.
3. Think about the failure of the power grid and what you will do if you are out of electricity for a long time — maybe months or years. Gensets, fuel, wind generators, solar collectors are all great, but think about what you will do to keep your windows blacked out if you are the only one with electricity. Talk about a lure for looters. Watch out!
4. Learn to speed read - I have way too much to read, but try to spend one to two hours everyday reading and learning all I can.
5. Make sure you have some extra beds - even if you have to put them in the garage or barn. We already have an adult child and her husband living with us due to a bad landlord, and it does change the dynamics of your household.
6. Learn to garden — find someone who has some dirt and learn to grow vegetables and fruit (BTW, my dearly beloved tomatoes are fruit). Go to www.seedsavers.org and www.gardeningrevolution.com — both good sites and there are other sites out there, too. Eat what you grow and learn how to store it - can, freeze, dry, vacuum pack it or whatever else you can figure out how to do. Also, learn to save seeds. This may actually save your life during the coming trouble.
7. Become an active member of a relatively small local church. If you do not understand this, you are in serious trouble.
8. If you cannot control your addiction to television, throw it out or give it away. I am not kidding.
9. Learn to fix everything you can. If you do not have a knack for fixing things, get to work and learn all you can. This is not an option. When doing this, stock up on parts and supplies for everything you own or want to own.
10. Buy things that will last a long time. I am driving a 20-year old M
- I am very biased, but I have found that some of the best medical thinkers are veterinarians, dentists, and nurses.
14. In spite of my passionate dislike for television, we are stocking up on clothes, books (www.half.com), movies, toys for our grandchildren, board games, outdoor games, and more.
15. Learn not to be too imperialistic. I am the head of my household, but I am not a dictator. I am a fairly high ranking officer in the guard,
16. Be careful about what you eat. The big food companies do not actually put the true ingredients on many labels and we now consume so much processed food it is frightening.
www.gardeningrevolution.com and see how you can spend a few hundred dollars and get one, two, or three of Len Pense's raised beds operational
--Wednesday August 1 2007
Mental Preparations for Survival, by jc
For many people preparing to survive has become an obsession; a pursuit placed above all else in their lives. Others feel as if survival prep should be more of a priority if they could only afford to do more. Still others feel as if they may have already gone overboard in their preparations. Preparing for survival after TEOTWAWKI can make you feel overwhelmed, under-supplied, overspent, under-funded, over-your-head, or under-the-gun (no pun intended).
There are those who have the ability to purchase a retreat, stock it with supplies and equipment for a year or more, and have enough to share with those in need at will. They expect to support parents, siblings and spouses, nieces and nephews, grandkids, and several families of friends, and have already stocked their retreat with all the food, water, and supplies for all of them to start completely over. Most of us, however, fall far short of that ability, and hope that we can simply prepare for ourselves and our immediate family.
Please understand, I am not criticizing those who are able to prepare in this way. That's what this country is all about – the chance to make and keep your fortunes. As Christians we don't believe in luck, but we do believe in hard work and good fortune. We can only hope that most, many, or all of these fortunate people have the Christian outlook of sharing with those in need.
Whether you are a preparedness guru (PG) or a "newbie" (NP – for New Preparer), getting prepared to survive after any disaster, or even a total collapse, seems like a daunting task. PGs know just how expensive and time consuming preparing can be, and many NP's have become discouraged as they begin to realize what they are facing. It is for that reason that mental preparedness (MP) is so important.
Mental Preparedness involves many aspects and the first and foremost of these is an individual's Spiritual preparation. Are you a Christian? Have you accepted Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior? Are you ready to die if that's what God's will for you is? Christianity – that is, evangelical Christianity (Christians who believe that Jesus died for their sins, was buried, and rose again as a living Savior sitting at the right hand of God) offers living hope for our future. We worship a living Savior, one Who has gone before us to prepare a place for us in heaven.
If you have not already done so, accept Jesus into your life as Lord and Savior. It's so easy to do. Any good Christian can help you or go to www.sbc.net and click on the small green link at the top of the page "I want to know Jesus." Until you make Christ real in your life the rest of the preparations are just going through the motions.
Once you are Spiritually prepared, the next step is prayer. Ask God to guide you in your preparation, to give you insight into the survival mindset, to lead you to the resources you need to get your mind ready for the preparation task, and to guide and help you in the decisions that must be made to prepare yourself and your family for survival. Ask Him how you can become a better Christian and person through this process – He will show you if you are open to receiving the answers. Finally, ask the Lord help you communicate the urgency and necessity to others to prepare to survive.
Is there Biblical mandate for survival? For preparation? Yes, God has given us instructions in His Word for survival and preparation. Following is a list of Scriptures for you to look up for yourself rather than quoting them here for brevity, but please take the time to look up each one and understand what God is trying to tell us, tell you, about being prepared and surviving.
Proverbs 6:6–11 – tells us that we are responsible to do the work of preparation while we are able.
2 Thessalonians 3:10 – basically says that if you don't work, you don't eat. Of course that does not include the sick or the aged; those should be taken care of by family or Christian charity. It plainly teaches that indolence or laziness should not be rewarded. In other words, if we could have prepared for the crisis but we didn't, we can't expect anyone else to take care of us. It is a principle that applies in every-day-life or in crisis situations.
1 John 3:17 – 18 – exhorts us to help others in need. Yet, you can not help someone who is in need if you haven't prepared for or can't help yourself. If we are to obey this verse then some sort of preparation is not only called for, but required.
Some great thoughts from another (unknown) Christian author:
" With regard to fleeing from life-threatening situations - what one brother sarcastically refers to as 'hidey hole' theology - Both Peter and Paul escaped from life-threatening situations. Peter fled from Jerusalem after his miraculous deliverance from prison by the angel. Paul was let down over the walls of Damascus when a plot against his life was uncovered. Both of these were escapes from the physical persecution that arose against them because of their testimony and preaching of the Gospel. Are we supposed to believe that God is only interested in preserving His people if they are in danger as a result of their following Jesus? That if the shortsightedness or greed of the world, places Christians in danger, that somehow that is not sufficient reason to escape in order to continue to serve, worship and love God and those around us? I can't speak for others, but I know my purpose in preparing for eventualities. It is not merely to save my hide; it's not worth that much anyway; but to do what Christians have done throughout the centuries, namely to maintain a living witness to the redemptive love of God in Christ, and to continue nurturing the Church which God has called me.
Some Christians believe that it is wrong to leave your urban or suburban home to find a rural setting where survival would be more likely. Again, this is called, 'hidey hole' theology. Yet, after the stoning of Stephen much of the Church in Jerusalem dispersed precisely to preserve their lives, to continue to care for each other and spread the Gospel in the new surroundings. God called Stephen to martyrdom, but not the whole Church. The Church in Rome met in the catacombs. Some lived in the catacombs. Was that 'hidey-hole' theology? When Jesus began his ministry He read from Isaiah in the synagogue, 'The Spirit of the Lord is upon me....This day the Scripture is fulfilled in your hearing.' They wanted to kill Him, but He 'passed through them.' He escaped. Was that 'hidey-hole' theology?
In 1 Kings 17:8 - 16, Elijah instructed the widow of Zarephath to give him her last cup of flour and last bit of oil. He told her don't be afraid, God will provide. God caused there to be a daily miracle provision of flour and oil for her survival. But another widow and her son in 2 Kings 4: 1 - 7, were instructed by Elisha to gather many containers, for God was about to provide for her needs. There was an immediate miracle of multiplication of the oil, part of which she was told to pay off her debts with, but the remainder she was to store. Thus, there was preparation, provision, and then storage in order for this woman and her son to survive. Sure, the provision was miraculous; but her use of God's provision was quite normal and mundane. Nor did Elisha criticize her for storing her oil for her family's future needs. [This author adds: it could be that your provisions may be provided in an equally miraculous fashion.]
Am I stupid, sinful and unbiblical because I want to see that my family survives? Am I supposed to believe that God doesn't want me to do anything about the survival of those whom I love, whom He has given to me? Have I no responsibility? Do I just stand with my eyes scrunched closed and say, 'OK God, you take care of me and mine?' Survival is not the ultimate value or goal for me or my family. It never was or will be. 'Glorifying God and enjoying Him forever' is. If God wants me and mine dead, so be it, and may He be praised forever. But I don't see that glorifying God and staying alive are mutually exclusive, especially when He seems to be graciously giving us advanced warning precisely so that we may continue to survive, so that we may serve Him and others.
And you, O mortal, do not be afraid of their words, though briers and thorns surround you and you live among scorpions; do not be afraid of their words, and do not be dismayed at their looks. Ezekiel 2:6
The clever see danger and hide; but the simple go on, and suffer for it. - Proverbs 22:3.
A closing thought (on Spiritual Preparedness): "When Noah built the ark, it wasn't raining."
Get your life right with God and prepare for tomorrow.
Many other aspects of survival require mental preparation as well. Too many people believe that because they witnessed some depravity that man had wrought on an individual, or on others, that they are now prepared to go through the hard times a severe crisis or even TEOTWAWKI can bring. Witnessing a tragic car accident, a shooting or murder, a knife fight in a bar, a shootout with the police, or even trying to help a rape victim can not begin to prepare you for the mental anguish of long-term crises. For the few who have had to kill in self-defense or seen the starvation and disease in some Third World country first hand as a missionary, these only begin to understand. If you served in combat – Iraq, Afghanistan, Korea, Vietnam, or WWII – and you had to kill or be killed, you had to care for a wounded and dying fellow soldier, or you had to survive as a prisoner of war, you understand some of what will be faced in an end of the world situation. Many of you may have loved ones or know someone who suffered with or still suffers from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) and can understand the mental stressors the individual endures. Unless you have been through it too you can't really comprehend all that this individual, these individuals, is/are going through.
So how do we prepare ourselves for what is to come? Everything starts with planning! And, it all hinges on organization. If you're a NP, start a list of preparations that need to be made. Do research on the Internet to find lists of the things you will need to do and what you will need to have on hand. Don't be overwhelmed by the lists of supplies – all of these things can be obtained one item at a time. Remember, if you start today you're still ahead of the majority of people. Continue to remind yourself that whatever you do today to prepare, won't be a need tomorrow.
Prepare your mind through the research you do. Read everything you can get your hands on about preparedness and survival, but read with a "grain of salt" so that you can discern good advice from bad. Read books and articles that are recommended by friends or reliable sources. Even other people who are preparedness minded can get and give bad advice – proceed with caution, but proceed.
One reliable and trusted Internet resource is www.SurvivalBlog.com, written and maintained by Jim Rawles. He is also the author of
SOPs are nothing more than written directions to cover every contingency for every person. Make sure you have instructions written for all members who will be with you in a disaster situation. Different situations call for different SOPs – try to cover all the bases for at least 72 hours. This is not something you will accomplish overnight or even in the first few weeks. As you study and prepare you will continue to rewrite and edit your SOPs. Some may take years to finish while others may never be done.
(Bug-out-Bag). This is a bag – a backpack, a duffel bag, a pillow case (although I think you will discover that a pillow case just isn't big enough) with everything in it you'll need to survive for three days to one week (or more).
Continue to move down your Priority List is similar fashion and you will suddenly find yourself short of space to store things and your mental attitude eased by the fact that you are becoming prepared much quicker than you ever thought possible. Remember, organization is the key. Once you begin to buy items for prep or survival you must be organized. Lists are required, and keeping up with them is paramount for making sure you get what is necessary. It is very easy to buy things twice (or even more) if you are trying to keep up with your purchases by memory, or to think you bought something and miss the chance to buy it. Use lists!
Monday July 30 2007
Letter Re: The Global Vitamin C Shortage Underscores Dependence on Red China
benefits. Think about buying a food dehydrator. They are reasonably priced. K
Little by little set aside money and acquire items you will need. Keep an extra supply of first aid items on hand. Don't forget some of the less
In a full scale crisis, drawing attention to yourself and home with a loud, light-producing device is not going to be very smart, but when power goes out and the masses aren't yet rioting in the streets, a generator will be nice to have.
in numbers. Seek out others who share your values and have skills you lack. How can you help each other? Build relationships and share ideas. Educate others, but be careful as you can imagine the funny looks you might get if you start prophesying doomsday. And guess who's doorstep they'll be standing on come crunch time. I am a firm believer that the more people around you that are prepared, the better off all of us are. If your neighbors can take care of themselves, then it's more likely your preparations will be preserved in the event of crisis.
Securing Your Castle
I'd like to take a moment to discuss security, specifically firearms. If you have studied survival even a little, then you are aware that arming yourself ranks high on the list of recommendations. Perhaps some of you share my reluctance to build an armory in my home. I have children, and being married to someone who is strictly against guns makes security a particularly difficult element in my survival preparations. While I recognize security as an absolute must, I have reservations about keeping a device designed to kill in my home. Ironically the reasons not to own a gun are the very reasons why I feel I should own gun. The reasons are aged 2-11, not including the Mrs. In a volatile scenario that could spiral out of control; I would feel helpless without weapons to protect my family. All the stockpiling of food and water will be futile if some thug can easily take it from you (and maybe your lives with it). If you do decide to own a firearm (or firearms), don't flaunt it and please educate yourself and practice. Keep a chamber or trigger lock in place and store the ammunition in a different location if necessary. In addition, don't rule out other ways of defending yourself. Albeit, less formidable, they are less expensive. These include pepper spray, knives, batons, stun guns and martial arts. I don't think I need to remind people that these are mostly ineffective against attackers with guns, or even large groups of unarmed evil doers. However, they may prove useful in that they are very portable and can be used in less dire emergencies. Deterrence in the form of dogs, fencing, motion detectinn, alarm systems and location should also be considered. Protection from those who intend to harm is imperative and yet another item that isuuseful even today.
Back to Basics
Take an assessment of your skill sets. What knowledge do you posses that would be of value in a crisis situation? Don't worry, if needed, your survival instincts will take hold, but some basic skills can make you an asset and will help you survive. Develop and hone these skills now. Start simply; make your own bread, catch your own fish, grow your own vegetables, prepare healthier, less processed meals. I enjoy beer, I brew my own. It's rewarding and I've learned much from it. Learn basic plumbing, carpentry and e It seems that all too often, in our frenzied lifestyles, we focus all our energy on skills that will get us fat paychecks and forget the simpler but more important things. Get back to basics. Slow down. Simplify. If something isn't adding positive value to your life, eliminate it. Many preparedness items can be fun and done as a family. Go camping, take hikes, etc. If you have kids, consider home schooling them. Most importantly get to know your children; spend time with them.
--It's Up to You
You can make self sufficiency a way of life without going "off the deep end," so to speak. Taking action will not only give you peace of mind, a sort of insurance policy, but also can improve your life in the meantime. Many corollary benefits will emerge. Here are some that come to mind: Less reliance on outside institutions, money saved, healthier eating habits, time spent with your family. Regardless of the future, you'll be teaching your children to be prepared, to think logically and independently and not to have a lazy, consumerist attitude
--Sunday July 22 2007
Letter Re: My Adventure in Growing Wheat, by Carl in Wisconsin
Sir:
Regarding Carl's question of cleaning and harvesting grain. First get some horses and a binder, it's much easier than by hand.
Regarding proper use of a scythe: It is largely a matter of gaining a rhythm. Proper rhythm will allow you to cut all day without much effort., merely swinging your body. To exaggerate, swing the scythe to catch between 1/2 and one inch of grain/grass. At the last second jerk it toward you. In practice, if you have a good swing, it more or less does the jerk by itself. I have found that doing it properly will lay down the crop in rows, and it is almost as easy to pick it up by hand, rather than raking it. If you are using an 18th century basket to transport (No ends but a long handle) Pick up a handful of grain/grass, lay it on the basket with the heads in one direction, and you get about a bundles worth before you have to transport it. If the grain is ripe, and you lay the heads over the end of a flat surface, all you have to do is whack the heads only, and the kernels will fall out. (Or you can do it on a tarp or something on the ground. But still, whacking the heads only on ripe grain makes it easy to remove the straw by hand.) After cutting, the grain should be let dry to loosen the seeds from their hulls.
In September, I got about a gallon of wheat out my storage and proceeded to use my hand-held grass seed spreader. I spread those little wheaties just like a pro. I then raked the whole plot to work the seeds into the soil. That took a day.
Over the next two months until about December 1st the little guys actually came up just like winter wheat is supposed to. From then until March we got some snow, about 1/2 of a normal Wisconsin winter and it got below 0 a couple of times. Winter was just no big deal like it is supposed to be here.
In March I noticed they were turning green again and starting to grow. We two snow storms and temperatures dropped below 0 a couple of nights. It got warm and the wheaties were growing again. In April we got frost about 10 nights in a row, but my little green buddies were okay. Along come May and guess what? More frost and no rain! The wheaties were looking dismal. They grew to about 18" in height. In early June we got some rain and they were looking good again.
It had not rained in 20 days as of July 1st. It was close to 100 degrees a couple of days in there. On Sunday, July 1st I checked on them at about 6:00 am and they were all falling down. I checked some of the heads and there was grain, small but all the same its was grain.
I
and hose. Another half barrel sits on top of the "base" barrel. This upper barrel has had a false bottom partition built into it, making it look like it is full of soil, when the soil is actually only 6" deep. This barrel is planted with wildflowers each summer. To access the pump handle and hose, it takes just a few moments to set aside the 30 pound top barrel and flip over the base.
--Saturday July 7 2007
Ethical Preparedness for WTSHTF, by SF in Hawaii
What (if anything) are you willing to kill for post-SHTF? To consider this question, first let's start with a quote on justifiable homicide from Wikipedia:
Under early Athenian law, it was considered justifiable homicide to kill an adulterer caught in the act or a burglar caught in the act at night... in eighteenth century English law , it was considered a justifiable homicide if a husband killed a man "ravishing" or raping his wife (Blackstone, Wm. at p. 391), but modern law treats this as only a circumstance that will mitigate murder to a conviction for manslaughter . In other words, the socialization of modern men is supposed to result in less violent responses to provocations.
... in some cases in the United States . A homicide may be considered justified if it is done to prevent a very serious crime , such as rape, armed robbery, or murder. The assailant's intent to commit a serious crime must be clear at the time.
Now let's change the scenario. It's SHTF time and you wake to find a group of armed strangers stealing your food? Now how about your next door neighbor stealing your food for his starving kids? You've already been charitable and now he's getting into your deep larder, but you used to drive his kids to the local soccer match where they played together.
Would you shoot a black masked, private mercenary thug that the governor called in and deputized that tried to disarm you forcibly? How about a well-meaning young kid in the National Guard who, pointing a gun at you, told you he had orders to disarm you (of your only weapon), contrary to the constitution and the needs of your family's protection during a Katrina style disaster. You know that rapists and murders will be out at night while he's safe asleep in his barracks. He's too young and stupid to know what he's doing is wrong. Still, there you both are. How about the local cop who got the same order. You've been fishing with him. He's a good man, except for the fact that he's about to violate his constitutional oath.
It's better to go through these moral exercises in advance and have your line in the sand already drawn. Of course we cannot know what we will really do when confronted with difficult choices, but freezing up at the moment of truth while we work out our ethical dilemmas is not the best option. We need to know what we are willing to do, and how far we are prepared to go in advance so that when the time comes, we can act decisively, already having made peace with the righteousness of our decision.
Bulk foods also make good barter items for paying neighbors that might become your employees in the event of TEOTWAWKI (farm hands, security guards, et cetera.)
OBTW, it was recently reported that the EU has banned the production of new barometers and thermometers that use mercury. (They will be phased out in the next two years.)
Sand bags are important for flood prone areas, and be used as a safe room, bunker, or to cover windows to stop incoming rounds. Single stacked sand bags will stop 7.62x51 [NATO] rounds.
I am referring to a brick oven for baking bread, pizza and a large variety of other foods. Brick ovens have been around for thousands of years, they were very common in Roman times. They are having a revival in the
Wednesday May 30 2007
Hurricane Preparedness, by MFA
I'd like to share a couple of things I've learned through the recent hurricane seasons in Florida, being hit directly by one, indirectly by three or four more (I've lost count). The following assumes you're staying put, not bugging out. Typically my wife will take the kids and bug out, while I stay home for security and damage control if needed.
10. Security - If you think you might need force to defend yourself, get your concealed carry license (CCL), get your practice in and buy your rifles, handguns and ammunition well before season. The state has been known to declare a state of emergency and suspend the sales of guns and ammo when a storm is coming.
heir orchards; from the sides of the roads; from ditches and any place else where a little bit of grass, brush, or edible weeds manages to grow. Also, it's possible to raise a lot of feed in the family garden. I save pea-vines and corn stalks for the goats, for example. You wouldn't want to feed a steady diet of corn stalks, but they are good for stretching other feeds out. Perennials that you can grow for feed include comfrey and alfalfa. We commonly think of alfalfa as being grown in large fields, but a border around the edge of the garden (where it will get tended and watered) will produce a lot of feed.
--Monday May 21 2007
Reader Poll Results: Your TEOTWAWKI Resume -- 100 Words and 100 Pounds
Some of these stretched the 100 word limit. (I skipped posting one that rambled on far beyond the limit.) The poll's premise in a nutshell: "If someday you went to the gates of a survival community post-TEOTWAWKI and pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken objectively, would you vote yourself in?"
I am a shoe maker (not just a repairman) can repair saddles tan leather have done ranch work mechanics weld gardening skills set a broken bone stitch up a bad wound can bake bread etc, shooting skills need work only 5.5 MOA on AQT.
---Age 25, weight 160, excellent health, single. Engineer, engine mechanic, builder, jack of all trades. Trained and competitive marksman. Skilled teacher. Tolerant, thick skinned, sense of humor. Introvert, not loner. Schooled in college, educated in real life. History buff and cook.
---Age: Near 60. Can still see well enough, without glasses, to shoot back.
Old, tired, wore out. Been around the third world several times. (South America, South Seas, East Asia) Can't lift a third my own weight. Don't eat much. Know how to do just about anything.
Will arrive with 30 Lbs water, 30 Lbs freeze dried food, Ruger Mini 14, S&W 659, 100 rds for each, a
---Age 25. Ex-military.
Trained extensively in: Perimeter reconnaissance,
Land-navigation.
Instructor of: full-spectrum warfare, defensive fighting positions, combat operations.
Expert marksmen: M16A2, M4A1 (GUU-5/P), M9. Expert in FN-FAL, M1A/M14, AKM,
---Phd/MBA expert (37) on alternative energy and appropriate technology. Tool maker and builder/manufacturer/processor of useful post-TEOTWAWKI machines, trade goods, and alcohol (own BATF-licensed alcohol fuel still). Russian MBA wife (35) survived fall of Soviet Union and 1998 crisis. 4 yo and 10 mo daughters. Home machine shop, tools, anvil, forge, ethanol still, large
---I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any
---Male, 38, 160 pounds. Reasonable shape.
Skills:
Suturing, minor surgery, advanced airway management, cautery, fractures, casting, NBC treatment, tooth extraction and making dental fillings. 2 home births. Pistol. Morse code.
Supplies:
Sutures, antibiotics, casting supplies, complete surgery tools and dental extraction set.
.45, scoped M21 sniper rifle plus ammo. Field scope, rangefinder. Level 4 bulletproof vest, helmet, FRS radios.
Strengths-
Have excellent interpersonal/negotiation skills
Have made a sufficient study of military history/combat tactics/military strategy
Maintain a vegetable garden/fruit trees
Have studied/used survival techniques in N.A. and C.A.
Have knowledge of indigenous edible plants/animals in N.A. and C.A.
Have skill-at-arms on US/ComBloc small arms
S.F. in Hawaii suggested another poll topic: "If someday you went to the gates of a survival community post TEOTWAWKI and pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken objectively, would you vote yourself in?
I suggest the following poll. Put together your survival resume in 100 words or less. The resume is what you would present to a panel of tough as nails judges who would decide if what you offer is worth what you will consume in resources. You may use in your arguments (1) whatever real skills you possess as of today and (2) whatever you can reasonably carry in a backpack or on your body, as long as you actually own them in real life, not to exceed 100 pounds. If you have children, a significant other, or plan to have anyone else come with you, this must be mentioned. If they possess skills, then they may put in a resume as well and you will be judged singly and as a group. The resume should include your age, weight and general physical condition. Any weaknesses in your case that would be discovered over time that you do not expose (such as a recurring back injury) will be considered grounds for immediate expulsion from the group, so for the purposes of this exercise, you should be up front and honest. If you have children under 12, they can carry their own weight in supplies.
You must take into account that your 100 pound allowance should contain whatever food and camping supplies you would want as a refugee. Since you cannot assume that you will be granted sanctuary in the community, you must take what you will need to survive on the outside if you are refused entry. A backpack full of guns and ammo will do you little good if you have no food and water.
One caveat: While being part of a group increases survival odds, being on the road as a refugee does not. This is meant as a learning tool to help assess what our skills and assets are and which we might want to develop and accumulate."
Please send me your "resumes" in 100 words of less, via e-mail and I will post them anonymously. Thanks!
---Permalink
What would you recommend I do in this situation? If you need more information, please do not hesitate to ask. Thanks, - Sam
JWR Replies: I recommend that you form a survival retreat group. That is exactly what I did 25 years ago, when I was an Army ROTC cadet. Stock your retreat as best as you can, given your limited budget. Prioritize your purchasing. Water purification and food storage should be at the top of your list. Set group standards for communications gear and guns. For short range tactical coordination, I recommend the modestly priced MURS transceivers, since they use a little-used band. This is particularly important in the signal-dense northeastern United States, where using CB frequencies would be almost impossible WTSHTF. For advice on firearms selection, see my Survival Guns web page, and my novel "Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse".
---Be very selective about who you bring into your group. Unlike building a group based on an extended family, you can be choosy. Be dispassionate in choosing new group members. Evaluate each candidate on their stability, motivation, and their mix of skills. Friendship is a great thing, but the guy or gal who is presently your dormitory buddy may not be your best choice for a survival group member. Look at their weight, health, and physical fitness. Consider their religious background. Are they moral and trustworthy? Are they intelligent and adaptable? Do they have valuable skills? Are they hard working or will they just be "talkers" or "strap hangers"? Avoid people with extremist views or anyone that suggests making any preparations that are illegal. Ask yourself the key question: Am I willing to trust my life to this individual? If any candidates don't pass muster, then keep looking.
In the long term, try to develop a retreat that is in a less densely populated region. When you graduate, direct your job search--assuming that you will be a reserve officer--to a region that is suitable for self-sufficient retreats. (For details, see my Retreat Areas web page and my book Rawles on Retreats and Relocation.) Odds are the group that you form in college will have a considerably different composition five or six years from now, once your friends change locales to pursue careers. In fact, depending on where you end up, you may be teamed with an entirely different group of people.
--If you are destined to go on active duty, then tailor your "dream sheet" of preferred duty assignments (after OBC) to posts that are in the western U.S. (You didn't mention if you had been branch selected yet. That could make a big difference in the locale of your eventual posting.) I suggest that you consider posts like Umatilla Army Depot, Fort Carson, Rocky Mountain Arsenal, Tooele Army Depot, Dugway Proving Ground, Fort Lewis (possibly permanent party at Yakima Training Center), Fort Greely, Fort Wainwright, or perhaps Sierra Army Depot. Army PERSCOM branch managers are often willing to accommodate requests from junior officers that state a preference for posts that their peers would consider "backwater" assignments. (Let everyone else ask for a posting in Germany, Fort Meade, or Fort Devens.) Your branch manager may exclaim to his co-workers: "Holy cow! This lieutenant asked to be assigned to Umatilla Army Depot!"
someone living in the Rockies. Your "List of Lists" should include:
Water List
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
Personal List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Gardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
Fuels List
Firefighting List
Tactical Living List
Security-General
Security-Firearms
Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List
Sundries List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
Consider your preparations a form of insurance. But it is much better that traditional life insurance, where if you die, they pay. Lord willing, this type of insurance will keep you and your family alive and well.
Don't dawdle. Even modest preparations will put you miles ahead of your unprepared neighbors. Stock up gradually and consistently. Take you training seriously. Once acquired, share your skills with others. Network with like minded relatives, neighbors, and friends. But of course be circumspect about what you reveal about your preparations to anyone that doesn't have a need to know.
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Monday May 14 2007
Poll Results: Why are You Preparing to Survive?
--Sunday May 6 2007
Two Letters Re: Advice on Enhancing Cool Basement Food Storage
James:
For those looking to create stable and "passively" cool storage in a basement, the book "How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar" by Richard Gold is a well-thought, meticulously engineered solution to many of the same issues faced by those seeking to store food at stable, cool temperatures. Regards, - Ben
are constructed of concrete such as basements, foundations and slabs on grade are very susceptible to moisture intrusion. Concrete acts as a wick and when dry will actually attract moisture and move it through out the structure under the right conditions. For example a twenty-inch concrete column sealed o---
hundred years this condition has been referred to as "rising damp". The modern term for it is capillary action.--Choose as dry and well-drained location as possible to build the structure. Once the excavation of the basement is complete you should proceed with water management measures as dictated by the conditions of your location. If you have a substantial amount of groundwater or springs under the excavation you will need to install a drain system around the outside of the foundation and under the floor to move this water away from the basement.--Now comes the important part. Once the drain system is completed and the forms for the foundation and floor have been constructed you will want to lay down heavy-duty plastic vapor barrier on the ground under all areas where you will pour concrete. The barrier should cover the entire floor, pass under the foundation and up the outside wall as continuous as possible. Where you need to make seams, overlap the barrier at least five feet. Applying a sealant between the layers at the seams is advisable. --You should end up with basement that is totally encapsulated in a plastic vapor barrier. Most builders that attempt installation of vapor barriers ignore the foundation because it takes a little finesse to do this right. This leaves a path for capillary action to bring moisture into the basement.
Now that you have a dry basement don't forget to properly ventilate it. It should be tied in with the rest of the house ventilation system. If you construct a safe room in one corner it will still be necessary to supply some ventilation to that room or it will become very musty.--I am presently planning the construction of a small house for my wife and I and will construct a safe/storage room as an extension of the basement, which will extend out from under the house. It will basically be an underground concrete room next to the house joining the basement wall and will be totally sealed from moisture as I have described. I will be able to easily hide the entrance through the basement wall in the back of a utility room. Being outside of the house footprint will also protect it from fire in case the house would burn down or otherwise be destroyed.
JWR Replies: To take best advantage of the ambient ground temperature and isolate the food storage area from the heated portion of your basement, you should definitely construct well-insulated partition walls--preferably using 2x6s and two bats (two thicknesses) of insulation. The thickness of the door through the partition wall is not as crucial as it being relatively airtight--to keep the cool air from "spilling out" from under the door. In my experience you should omit any vents unless the humidity is high, but your mileage may vary (YMMV).
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Thursday April 26 2007
Letter Re: How Do I Prepare Rice and Coffee for Long Term Storage?
3. We just jumped in with both feet doing food storage instead of learning the proper way. We bought tons of wheat, cornmeal, and oatmeal - poured it in buckets and stuck it in several locations. About 3 years later we started learning and realized we should have taken more care, rotated our stock, etc. When we checked on things we ended up feeding about half of it to the chickens.
4. Underestimating what we need! This was the biggest. Several years ago my husband got sick and was off work for four months - unable to get out of bed for two of those months. Because we were debt free and had food stored plus some savings we did okay, but we realized how many things we had overlooked that I had to run to the store for - spices, OTC medicines, shampoos and toiletries, even socks and undergarments that were about worn out and had no spares. Nothing absolutely life shattering, but those creature comforts make life bearable.
5. We also realized during that time that our roles were too separate. We are very traditional, with me doing "women's" work and him doing the "men's" work - that's how we like it. But when he could not do it we realized how dangerous that could be.
Bright side to the story, once we had removed our unintended rat support system, I started catching the despicable critters in my traps and the poison containers show signs of being eaten. No more rats! Moral: watch where you store stuff and check on your storage regularly.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
While rag-picking at my local thrift store, I spotted an Asian food wholesale supply store in that neighborhood. What caught my eye was the 50# bags of rice stocked 6' high and three deep, right in the storefront window. By my count, he had six tons of rice varieties on site. That is far more than the half-pallet that Sam's Club seems to stock.
Note to preppers: If you happen to recognize a slow spiral to TEOTWAWKI, and you still have the need to accumulate calories for the homestead or charity, map out the ethnic food wholesalers (Asian, Mexican, etc.) in your AO for the proverbial beans and rice. If and when the times call for it, my guess is our multicultural friends also will understand the value of gold and silver coin as tender in payment of debt, whereas the mass merchant will not. (Of course if folks are using silver, at that point you should already have the hatches battened down.)
BTW, my greatest "keeping your eyes peeled" find was after the November--
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--Wednesday April 18 2007
Livestock at Your Retreat, by Samantha
Livestock, while not strictly essential to post-TEOTWAWKI survival, are certainly on the to-have list of the majority of all survival-minded individuals.
goats, can forage for themselves quite effectively in almost any season, if left to their own devices in a large enough enclosure. Others, notably cattle and horses, have been raised so that they expect food - grain and hay -
Look at your retreat location critically, and find animals suited and accustomed to the terrain and climates.
Letting rabbits or chickens inbreed out of neglect is one of the fastest ways to reduce their utility (especially as feed animals), so keeping males and females separate, and creating breeding records, can be a sure lifesaver. With bigger stock (cattle, horses, etcetera…) inbreeding is less of a problem,
As a special note, extremely few fish breeders care about inbreeding in their stock: typically, only fish with very obvious malformations are destroyed.
---My top-choice breed of horse for post-apocalyptic living would be a BLM-captured Mustang [feral horse]. These animals aren't much to look at, but they're small and hardy. When other horses are thin in winter, waiting at the gates for hay, these animals will be fat and glossy, digging up grass roots to eat. They prosper naturally in almost every type of terrain and climate, and are priced at a steal. At BLM auctions, a single horse will usually sell for between 100 and 300 dollars.
Runner up would be a Percheron. These are draft horses, so they're more than capable of carrying or pulling an extraordinary weight – and they're often trained to ride, drive, and occasionally even plow. Typically, most drafts have a slow and easygoing temperament
cattle), I would recommend Brown Swiss. These animals are slow and gentle
to maximize the lifelong utility of your cattle, the South Devon is a safe bet. Again, calving is a big part of owning cattle, which is what warrants this breed as second choice – they've been aptly nicknamed 'the maternal beef'. These cattle, unlike most, produce milk and calves well into their teens.
For the most part, I recommend sheep more than goats; they're less predisposed to sickness, and are generally much less ornery.
--goats:However, if they suit your fancy, I would recommend the Kinder breed, hands down. They're medium sized dual-purpose goats (milk and meat), and does average out in maturity as about 115 pounds. They have between 3 to 6 kids a year, which will each weigh around 80 pounds in 14 months… They are extremely efficient meat converters.
if store-chicks wont sit:just buy mature brooding hens from a small farmer, or one hen and her brood.
---Monday April 16 2007
Poll Results: An Exercise in Humility--a Poll on Embarrassing Mistakes
I didn't floss my teeth for years thinking brushing my teeth was enough.
On a day hike I relied on a GPS and ignored my own sense of direction and
Bought a bunch of meat, dehydrated it and put it in a vacuum sealed bag. Two months later it was all molded.
The bottom line is that being prepared is more than an excuse to buy a lot of guns. They are a very important part of it, but they are not the only part. Before you buy that sexy looking AR, maybe you should ask yourself if you have enough provisions on hand to survive a week off the grid. If you do, then maybe it's not a bad purchase for your particular situation. If you don't, then your money could be better spent elsewhere. We live and we learn I suppose. Hopefully others will read my mistakes and learn from them.
Here are the topics of disgust:
1). Sawdust-based compost on Garden
2). Vacuum sealing spare garden seeds (dont do it)
3). Not putting my dust masks in a dry vermin resistant package.As for the sawdust compost mixture I tilled into my garden three years running I continually noticed a decline in yield. In further research I found that the sawdust "sterilizes" the soil by absorbing the key nutrients
to post-TEOTWAWKI living. In my experience, the most cost-effective training opportunities in the U.S. include:
American Red Cross First Aid and CPR classes
Local Community College, Park District, and Adult Education classes. They offer classes on metal shop, auto shop, wood shop, leather crafting, ceramics, baking, gardening, welding, and so forth.
RWVA Appleseed Shoots. These are held all over the nation. They offer great training for very little money. The West Side Sportsman's Club, located on t
LDS (Mormon) cannery classes/canning sessions. Many "wards" have their own canneries, which are generally open to non-Mormons. (OBTW, the LDS food storage calculator web page is a very useful planning tool.)
FEMA / CERT Classes (Classroom and Internet courses, some with team commitment)
ARRL amateur radio classes.
Species-Specific or Breed-Specific Livestock and Pet Clubs
NRA and State Rifle and Pistol Association training and shooting events
Fiber Guilds (spinning and weaving) and local knitting clubs
Mountain Man/Rendezvous Clubs (Blackpowder shooting, flint knapping, soap making, rope making, etc.)
University/County Agricultural Extension and Cattleman's Club classes on livestock, gardening, weed control, canning, et cetera
Medical Corps small group classes. I heard that they have scheduled just one hands-on Combat/Field Medicine Course thusfar for 2007.
Volunteer Fire department (VFD) classes (usually with some commitment)
Candle and Soap Making Clubs/Conventions
Boy Scouts and 4H. Informal, un-enrolled ("strap hanger") training is available for adults--just take your kids to the meetings and don't leave.
I would also consider these less important (but still worthwhile) training opportunities, as time permits:
Sheriff's posse and Search and Rescue (SAR) programs
Police department "Ride Along" and Police Reserve programs
Civil Air Patrol (CAP) courses.
Civic/Ethnic Club cooking classes
---Saturday April 14 2007
Letter Re: Three Liabilities Addressed: Refrigeration,
Australian Tom Chalko published an article in 2005 showing how to convert a standard chest freezer into an extremely energy efficient refrigerator that uses 0.1 KWH per day.
A 750 watt photovoltaic system (five 150 watt panels, a 750+ watt inverter, and a battery) is enough to power the 100 watt per hour refrigerator. However, Tom Chalko's design only needs one 40 watt panel [$300 to $400 at typical retail ripoff rates], a 40+ watt inverter [$34 at The Inverter Store], and one battery - the total investment would be about $500. Inverters will typically last 10 years for the premium brands (e.g. Fronius, Kaco, Xantrex, SMA America) while the panels will last 25 to 40 years. Note that using a 12 volt DC refrigerator eliminates the need for inverters.
One could easily stockpile several extra small inverters and store them in a Faraday cage. They also would be a good post-collapse trade good.
For multi-generational collapses once the inverters and solar panels die, lead acid batteries and DC direct driven wind turbine technologies are sustainable and could be locally manufactured using home garage scale workshops. In an absolute worst case scenario, [in northern climates where ponds and lakes freeze in winter] one uses the refrigeration solution used for hundreds of years in Europe:
1) Find a cave or build a sufficiently large underground root cellar.
2) Heavily insulate the structure using natural materials such as straw bales
3) Every winter, use the natural freezing cycles to make large volumes of ice blocks
4) Store the ice blocks in the structure and insulate them with saw dust
5) Store food in the portion of the structure surrounded by ice
6) Use smaller, insulated ice chest in individual homes for day-to-day refrigeration and resupply the ice chest with ice from the large storage cellar or cave every several days.
Ultimately, knowledge of the right appropriate technology (some high tech but mostly alternative design approaches successfully used in the past or in third world countries that were often abandoned in the West as cheaper energy destroyed their economics) can show us ways solve
---Friday April 13 2007
Letter Re Buying the Right Cookware and Knives for Long Term Preparedness
Having spent 28+ years in the restaurant industry, I can recommend a few items that I think everyone should have in their retreat.
1) Good stainless steel chef, boning, serrated, paring and carving knives. T
2) A good set of cast iron cookware.
3) A good pepper grinder with metal gears and a supply of pepper corns, and large granule salt or sea salt.
4) A mortar and pestle for grinding herbs, salt,etc
---Wednesday April 11 2007
Three Liabilities Addressed: Refrigeration, Sanitation, and Fuel, by James D.
compressor to compress a refrigerant (a liquid that boils at room temperature) turning gas to a liquid. For the survivalist, ammonia is the refrigerant of choice, and at the proper pressure (since it is normally a gas), it will act as a refrigerant, although other chemicals may be added to improve performance, including water and salts. When the liquid boils it will cool the surface that the refrigerant evaporates from returning to gas again. (Note that you can change the pressure in the system to alter the temperature it will boil at)
Evaporative cooling works the same in this case as it does when sweat evaporates into vapor cooling you. Ammonia can be made from urine and was first derived from urea. "It was also used by dyers in the Middle Ages in the form of fermented urine" This is of particular interest for those who worry about the multigenerational scenario.
There are many plans available on the internet for experimental ice makers.
These ice makers for the survivalist may make the difference between life and death for those who need cooling for insulin that will work even after an EMP.
Further ice will have huge trade value when there is no other way to make ice post-crash.
Bleach is a great sanitizer but unless stored as a powder it loses potency over time, and there is a limit to the amount of powdered bleach you can rationally store. So the ability to make bleach from raw materials, water and salt, is worthwhile knowledge. Further with the advent of antibiotic resistant bacteria and pandemic viruses, sanitation is not an issue of social graces, but sickness and death. Further bleach made from salt is another potential use for the salt that should be stored for those who do not have access to bodies of salt water, it has innumerable uses, and this is just one more. The basic process is similar to the other electrolytic processes described on SurvivalBlog, like making colloidal silver. Also see this site.
Alcohol is in many ways the wonder fuel for survivalists. It doesn't spoil (like gas or diesel), it has been made since the dawn of civilization, so it is a robust and simple process the make it, and the ingredients are ubiquitous, plus it makes good trade fodder as more than just fuel. All you need is sugar, yeast and a sealed vessel. Yeasts digest sugar and make alcohol when there is no oxygen around, this is called fermentation. Yeasts are common enough that even without a culture you can just contaminate the vessel with saliva or expose it to air, and there will be enough yeast to ferment the sugars. This is not the most efficient way, or the most appetizing, but it can work. There are many sources for more information about making the mash, but to make a fuel or liquor rather than a semi-toxic mash you need to refine the product. This process is called distillation, and it works by using the boiling points of alcohol and water to separate them in a device called a still. This process is simple, but for efficient distillation, a well made device is required, and most are quite expensive. This is a good tutorial on how to make a quality one for a reasonable price.
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---Sunday April 8 2007
Nuclear, Chemical or Biological Disaster Preparedness, by Brian A.
When detonated, it releases radiation in the form of dust or debris, which is harmful mostly when inhaled, or introduced into the body by other means, (eyes, open cuts, etc.). The main terror use of such a weapon would be to contaminate emergency services workers responding to the initial blast. In the 1990s, Chechen rebels reportedly placed such a device in a park in Moscow, They used no explosive or other means to announce it's presence; they just let it sit there and expose passers by to radiation
Contrary to popular belief, a detonation/release of either type would not be a "death ray, heat wave" type situation. In both situations, the radiation would come in the form of particulate matter, and affect the population according to proximity and winds at the time. For example, in both situations, depending on the direction of the wind, you could be five feet away from the release and not be affected, or be a half-mile away and receive a dose. This is why winds are important,
Egress or "Bug Out" Plan.
In the event of a radiological release due to an incident at a nuclear facility or a terror detonation of a RDD type device. (This plan will also apply to natural disasters, rioting or other scenarios). Your best option may be to evacuate, leaving your home or workplace for a safer area as prompted by authorities. You'll notice I mentioned home and workplace. What would you do if you and your spouse are at work and the kids are at school? Do you have the means to contact them or retrieve them? What kind of emergency procedures do the schools have in place? Find out. You need to have contact numbers and be sure that everyone knows the plan. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you are leaving, everyone around you also has the same idea. This is why evacuation is to only be carried out if danger is imminent, and planning of at least two different routes to your safe area is critical. Picture rush hour with a "chicken little the sky is falling" mentality, that's what roads exiting a disaster area could resemble. A good idea is to have at least one of your routes on secondary roads, staying away from highways, as they could be generally congested.
---small bob:
Non-perishable food items, MREs/canned meats.
At least 2 quarts of clean drinking water.
Matches or a fire source
Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife.
40' of rope capable of supporting 200 Lbs.
Duct tape, string, nails, etc.
Survival or thermal blanket.
Small first aid kit (bandages, antiseptics, bug repellent, pain medications)
This is a small compact kit
--big bob:
A large "bug out bag" should be prepared for each family member and be stored in your home, or in cases of extreme heightened awareness, kept in your vehicle, some items to be considered for that:
Non perishable food for three days
Portable water for three days
Matches or other fire source.
Flashlight, spare batteries and spare bulbs.
Portable AM/FM radio with spare batteries
Survival type or thermal blanket.
Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife.
Portable pocket saw.
Small first aid kit, including insect repellent, and needed prescription medications
Small backpacking type, "pup tent" for shelter.
3 strong plastic garbage bags.
"Isolation" or particle/dust protective masks.
These items should be packed into a portable waterproof backpack, and need to be checked and maintained at least once every few months. (Author uses a frame type hiking pack)
A good idea is to have precut plastic sheeting cut and labeled for the windows and doors of your home. These can be affixed with duct tape
a 40-gallon fresh water supply in your house, your hot water tank. Most hot water tanks are equipped with a drain valve in the bottom and an intake shut off valve. Know where these are.
couple of "camping style" 10 gallon blue [plastic] containers that are made for water that I keep filled in the event they are needed.
3days food+water 'stored now'.
Local authorities already have contingency plans in place, and will pass the info on to you. However, you need a means of getting that information. A battery-powered radio is one of the most important ways
---George Santayana "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it." Words to live by.
JWR Adds: In my opinion, having just a three day supply of food is overly optimistic. FEMA is not likely to come cahrging to the rescue in every neighborhood in just three days. So a three month supply of food with a three week supply of water (and the means to filter additional water that is gathered later) is more realistic. Also, it is important to consider charity for your neighbors. A five year supply of storage food for one family can also be a three month supply for 20 families, or a three day supply for 200 families.
Brian mentions sheet plastic and duct tape. Completely sealing a room (which of course he is not suggesting) would be suicidal. Commercially-made shelter air pumps and HEPA filter systems are sold
positive in building an appropriate "we/they" distinction during a societal collapse--the distinction between your local community and predatory outsiders. Just ask anyone that has ever lived "inside the wire" at a Forward Operating Base (FOB) in Iraq. Those soldiers will tell you that they felt a strong cohesive bond, and were absolutely determined to repel anyone that attempted to attack their FOB. Their steadfast resolve can be summed up with the words: "They are not getting through the wire. Period." Dispensing charity helps build a cohesive "we" and draws into sharp contrast the "they." (In my view of the near future, the "they" will likely be roving bands of criminal looters. Imagine a situation like in the movie The Road Warrior, and you are inside the perimeter at the refinery. Can you see the appropriate "we/they"?)
---By logical extension, you can dispense significant charity only if you have it to give. Clearly, you must stock up above and beyond your own family's needs.
Consider that extra food as a key to building a "sense of community." Even for even those of you that are non-religious, dispensing charity will be part of your "we/they paradigm" insurance. If purchased in bulk quantities, it is also cheap insurance. Don't neglect buying your family that insurance! OBTW, speaking of wheat, the threat of the wheat "super-blight" is looming. This makes it urgent for families to stock up.
Where is the Biblical support for charity? It can be seen throughout the Old and New Testaments. Remember the Bible's guidance about leaving unharvested rows of crops, to benefit "gleaners"?
we are living at the tail end of a historic period of plenty.
Whether you feel that the price hikes we are seeing are due to peak oil, developing nations gobbling up natural resources, or active war zones sucking in all available oil and ammunition, you can not deny that prices (especially for fuel and metals) have increased significantly over the past few years.
Even if you focus only on specific products like the impending shortage of honey from [honeybee] Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) or a ban on high capacity magazines during the next presidential administration, you can not deny that shortages have either already begun or are fast approaching.
That said, this is the time to take stock of what you have on hand and compare it to what you would not want to be caught without. Consider what you expect the price of those goods to be in the future and b work your way through your available funds meeting your highest priority needs first.
In general, the "Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids" mantra is a good place to start.
Beans: You will always need to eat whether there is a TEOTWAWKI event or not. If you take advantage of weekly grocery store sales and group buy discounts to stock up on food you will realize financial savings even if no general price hike or famine occurs. I personally feel that a significant rise in food prices over the next year is almost a certainty and so feel that acquire a food reserve is the top priority.
---Bullets: Having food is no good if you have to surrender it to the first thug who comes along. The price of ammunition has increased dramatically as the demand for metals has skyrocketed globally. The political situation in the United States makes impending bans on rifles, ammunition, and magazines very likely in the near future. If you haven't already stocked up you will pay a higher price, and it is only going to get worse.
Band-aids: Every disaster scenario includes the potential for injury and disease. If you can prevent and/or treat both, the likelihood of survival and the quality of your family's life increases dramatically.
My chief complaint with survivalist literature in general is the over generalization of recommendations. So my top ten recommended specific purchases are below. Keep in mind that your needs and local market may differ from my own. The following recommendations are based on what I see a need for post SHTF and the likelihood of future shortages in my area.1. Food Grains – rice, oatmeal, beans, wheat, corn – most of us consume far more than we produce. Food grains are cheap especially if bought in bulk and when properly stored can last for years. Regardless of the crisis, food will be needed. It just makes sense to keep several months of food on hand especially in light of the potential shortages that could result from the die off of pollinators, and the potential need for self isolation in case of pandemic. Rice seems the best bargain in my local market. For literally pennies per pound, you can buy insurance against hunger in the form of dry rice.
In addition to grains, watch for grocery store sales on canned goods. Buying 50 cans all at once for 40 cents each is half the cost of buying one can per week for 50 weeks at 80 cents each. I strongly recommend taking advantage of any bargains you run across on shelf stable foods that you normally buy (canned fruits, canned vegetables, canned soups and dry soup ingredients, grains, pastas, etc.).
2. Matches – whether you prefer strike anywhere matches or safety matches, they are cheap, useful, and currently plentiful. They are so cheap that I have listed them as my second recommendation because for less than ten dollars you can have literally years' worth of matches on hand. Unless you have small children at home, it is well worth storing a book of matches in every bug out bag, camping tote, evacuation suitcase, jacket pocket, and vehicle.
3. If you can still find reasonably priced ammunition, especially 22 Long Rifle bulk packs, buy it. It seems that the opportunity to buy low cost center-fire ammunition is nearly gone. But you may still be able to find 22 long rifle cartridges for less than 2 cents per cartridge. If you can find that price in a brand which functions well in your firearms, I'd recommend buying a large supply. The same is true of 7.62x39 under 15 cents per cartridge and 308 under 25 cents per cartridge. If you can find it, I'd recommend buying it. And don't forget reloading supplies. As the price of ammunition escalates, reloading will become more popular. It may be worth watching for opportunities to stock up on discounted powder, primers, wads, shot, and projectiles.
prefer hydrogen peroxide. It is incredibly cheap difficult to manufacture at home, and has always proven effective for me as everything from mouth rinse to shallow wound cleanser. I think it is well worth picking up a few spare bottles and storing in a cool dark place. As with all medicines, read and observe the warnings.
7. Hygiene products – especially chlorine bleach to use as a disinfectant and water purifier but also soap, shampoo, feminine products, dental products, tissues, and toilet paper. All are currently cheap, all are needed in our households anyway, and all are worth having on hand when the lights go out, especially in regard to the ability to prevent illness.
8. Oils of every kind
9. Salt – as previously posted on Survival Blog salt is essential to life, cheap, and presently plentiful. But post a SHTF event you will have a hard time gettigg it. Don't think of salt as only for flavoring your food. It is essential to life and valuable as a food preservative in both curing and canning. Iodized salt provides vital iodine as well as salt. It can be used for all the uses that non-iodized salt is used for but you may end up with cloudy pickling solution etc. Non-iodized salt (preferred for canning, pickling, and hide tanning) is currently selling for about 69 cents per pound in my area. When you consider the labor involved in collecting it on your own, that is ridiculously cheap.
10. Honey – the
---Sunday April 1 2007
Letter Re: Survival Kits and Salt Storage
I would probably be considered more of a "self-reliantist" than a survivalist,
To counter this, I built a small kit that takes up less room than her purse - in it I put a butane lighter, a magnesium block, fire-starter matches, two collapsible water bottles, 6 bottles of water purification tablets, a knife, a sierra saw, a small first-aid kit, two rain ponchos in a pouch, some plastic bags, an LED flashlight, and a jar of bouillon cubes. Admittedly, it's not perfect, but it is better than nothing. My work colleague liked the idea enough that he put one together for his wife as well.
2. Salt - From the investigation I've done around the web, unfortunately this includes even your own site, this is an important and overlooked staple that should be high on everyone's list. Civilizations have collapsed due to lack of salt. In short, without electricity and reliable refrigeration, salt is the primary means of food preservation. If you live near the coast, you can gather salt from the sea, as well as those living near a salt spring, or dry salt bed, etc. Everyone else will have to stock it up or trade for it. Iodized salt is the preferable solution because it contains the small amount of iodine that the human body needs, the deficiency of which is called goiter, and can lead to birth defects such as mental retardation, thyroid disorders, and loss of IQ. If you live near the ocean, you can get the necessary iodine by adding seafood (including seaweed) to your diet.
3. A very useful book - One of the most informative books I've found in filling the gaps between what I don't know and what I need to know is the book "Caveman Chemistry" by Kevin M Dunn. It's written in a peculiar style, but it's packed with useful information. - Charles R.
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---Saturday March 31 2007
The lesson I learned that day was that, if there's something you think you're really going to need in a time of emergency, buy it now. Wait until the last minute and it will probably be gone. People in general may not be very well prepared, but they will pick a "big box" retailer clean the moment any perceived threat appears on the horizon. I guess this is something we all know, but it is probably worth repeating.- Tim in Baltimore, Maryland
Friday March 30 2007
Letter Re: Macroeconomic Implications of Large Scale Ethanol Production in the U.S.
Hi Jim
I have run across some information that I thought might be of interest. I am in the food business and come in contact with a lot of people in the food industry.
One of my associates is in the frozen fruit and vegetable business. He has been telling me the effect that W's ethanol incentives are having on the agriculture industry and it is quite alarming.
Tuesday March 27 2007
SHTF Shopping, by SF in Hawaii
There are two types of survivalist ["Schumer Hits the Fan"] (SHTF) shopping. Pre-SHTF, and Imminent-SHTF. Let's look at both of them .
Pre-SHTF
These are things you buy now while there is no immediate threat and no mobs of desperate people trying to get the same thing. People who know you think you are eccentric but mostly harmless. The readers of this site already know what kinds of items to store in advance (food, guns, ammunition, etc.) and so it will not be repeated here.
Imminent SHTF
If you haven't done your Pre-SHTF shopping, shame on you. The best you can hope for is to get there first. Put on a rucksack and while everyone else is in shock, you call your group/wife/friends and get to the COSTCO or wherever. You will be competing with others for items.
Here is where your preparation pays off. You zig while everyone else zags. You don't want to be in a throng of hungry and frightened people scrabbling for what's left on the [supermarket] shelves. Since you already have done your Pre-SHTF shopping, you are in no immediate need of anything. Instead, think of what else you might want to get and buy it while others are ransacking the shelves of the local grocery store for canned tuna, rice, bottled water and D-cell batteries. You've got your shopping list and you call your team and assign items to purchase.
Consider the nature of the SHTF. Stay away from the crowds. If a violent riot is a mile away, don't go to the gun store to get another shotgun. Everyone else is going there. You already have your guns and ammo right? Go to the hardware store and get razor wire (or barbed wire), 2x4's, nails, fire extinguishers and smoke inhalation masks/hoods. If the banks are shutting down, don't go and wait on line there. Instead, go to the ATMs and local check cashing place. Think out of the box or get buried in one.
You want to be ahead of the learning curve of the masses. You can be by virtue of three things.
1 - You've already taken care of the necessities so you can avoid the crowds.
2 - You aren't going into shock since you already saw this coming.
3 - You don't have to think about what you're going to need. You've already thought about it, made your list, and know exactly where to get it.
Conclusion:
Have this thought out ahead of time. Have copies or your list, delegate tasks to those in your circle and move fast while everyone else is glued to the television set waiting for the government to tell them what to do. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: Deciding whether or not to venture away from your home or retreat when disruption looks imminent should not be a taken lightly. Risks will likely outweigh the benefits if it means "fighting the crowds" at the stores. (Literally.) Nor do you want riffraff seeing your vehicle heaped with new purchases and then following you home. Ditto for nosey neighbors.
In my writings, I have always stressed that we should "Be part of the solution, and not part of the problem." I consider that the litmus test for determining the right course of action in any disaster. By logical extension, that mindset pushes us in the direction of dispensing charity and assisting civil authorities in restoring law and order. By stocking up well in advance you will be one less person that rushes to the supermarket just after the SHTF.
---Sunday March 25 2007
Letter Re: Measuring Volume for Silica Gel Desiccant in Food Storage Buckets
Hello Mr. Rawles,
I have a question concerning silica gel desiccant measurements. I have found that buying the desiccant in bulk from flower shops more economical for me, but need assistance with putting together an accurate measurement for 5 or 6 gallon food buckets. On the Alan T. Hagan [Food Storage FAQ] site, he say's to use coffee filters to make the packets which is a good source and on other vendor sites it say's that 1500 to 2000 cc's is to be used for the 5 or 6 gallon bucket's, my problem is how to measure those amount's and the others for that matter (300, 500, 750, 1000 cc's seem to be the usual amounts). I have a kitchen measuring cup and some conversion tables off the net but the amount that is poured seem's over measured (measured in ml BTW, ml=cc) because it seems quite large (the homemade packets). Any clarification/ help is greatly appreciated. - Derrick
JWR Replies: You are correct that a cubic centimeter is the same volume as a milliliter (mL or ml). 1 cup volume is about 240 to 250 mls. So the 1,500 to 2,000 cc figure does seem very high. At first glance, I think that they might have been off by a factor of 10 when they made their calculations. Typically, what is used for a sealed 5 or 6 gallon bucket of storage rice or wheat is a two ounce (56 gram) packet of silica gel, or perhaps two packets if you live in a damp climate. But let me provide a thoroughly defined answer, since a gram is a unit of weight and a milliliter is a unit of volume. Dry silica gel weighs 680 grams per liter. When it is saturated, it weighs considerably more. But as the basis for our calculations, you can assume that the weight of dry silica gel is .68 of the weight of an equivalent volume of water. Hence:, for Water: 1 cc = 1 ml = 1 gram. (Well, to be absolutely scientifically precise, 1 milliliter equals 1.000028 cc and 1 cc equals 0.999972 ml., but we aren't splitting atoms here), and for Silica gel: 1 cc = 1 ml = .68 gram. So, 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces) of dry silica gel would occupy a volume of 68 mls, or just over 1/4 of a cup, and 400 grams of dry silica gel would measure just over one cup.
You should always dry your silica gel before using it. This can be accomplished by placing the packets in a home dehydrator (such as the Excalibur brand--highly recommended) for 10 hours, or on a cookie sheet in a kitchen oven set to 150 to 180 degrees for 12 hours. (Make sure that the paper is not close to the heating element.) When dry, (down to around 2% moisture) 1000 grams of silica gel will occupy a volume of about 680 mls or 2-1/4 cups. So the 1,500cc (ml) figure that they mentioned would equate to more than five cups of silica gel! Whoa! We had better move that decimal place over a notch! A half cup (120 ml) of dry silica gel is plenty for a five or 6 gallon bucket.
OBTW, I don't recommend adding any desiccant to buckets of dried beans. (Although you should add an 02 absorbing packet.) If beans get too dry, it actually shortens their useful shelf life. If they get too dry, then soaking them--even for many days--will not plump them up properly, and they will not be palatable. If you are faced with the "hard bean" problem, you can resort to either using a pressure cooker, or grinding the beans, to salvage them.
The bottom line to all this number crunching is the good news: With the aforementioned exception of beans, there is no such thing as "too much" silica gel in a dried food storage bucket. If you inadvertently use two or three times too much, there is no harm done. But it would be a needless expense unless you can get it in bulk at very low cost or find someone giving it away. As you mentioned, florist shops are a good source. Another source is piano shops. Most of the pianos that are imported from Japan come with a large bag of silica gel. (Usually 600 to 800 grams.) One of those bags is the perfect size to protect the contents of a typical home gun vault.(Be sure to re-dry it once a year, or once per quarter if you live in a damp climate.) If you make some phone calls, these big bags are often available free for the asking--or next to it--if you pick them up at your local piano store.
For those not inclined toward scrounging, commercially-made silica gel packets are available from a variety of Internet vendors such as Ready Made Resources and Nitro-Pak. Both of those vendors also sell oxygen absorbing packets, which are crucial to ensure that insect larvae won't survive in your food storage buckets.
I am not a big believer in doctors or drugs, except only when absolutely necessary. After all, doctors are the #3 cause of deaths in the U.S.!
There has been a lot of talk in SurvivalBlog about maintaining good health and nutrition and making sure to stock lots of vitamins and other supplements, and I heartily agree with this.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned a lot on your blog is how to maintain good intestinal flora. I am no expert in this, but have found a number of low-cost ways to do this. I am in my late 50s and over the last few years started experiencing a lot of heartburn and acid reflux and started looking for natural ways to handle this. What some people do not realize is that using antacids to handle heart-burn actually has the opposite effect in that the antacids neutralize the acids in the stomach, but also cause the stomach to produce even more acids to counteract their effect.
One thing that I have found that is very good for heart burn is garlic. There is a product called Kyolic that works very well and as garlic has many other benefits, it should be taken in some form, on a daily basis.
However, I found for the long term, the best thing to do is to take small amounts of raw fermented foods every day. I'm sure that one of your readers can tell us the physiology behind this, but I only concerned that it is workable. The following are a few suggestions:
The least expensive and easiest thing to do [to promote good intestinal flora] is to make naturally cured sauerkraut. I found a very simple recipe at this site.
This makes naturally fermented sauerkraut in about 3 days and it is excellent. My wife is German and she says it is as good as what she used to eat at home. In order to benefit from all of the beneficial enzymes and bacteria, I eat it raw.
There is another variation on sauerkraut called cabbage rejuvelac, which was developed by Dr. Gray many years ago. The recipe can be found at this site. Instead of eating the fermented cabbage, you drink the liquid that it was made in.
There are also a number of sites that have recipes for Ann Wigmore's wheat rejuvelac and I have not tried any of these yet, but I suspect they give similar benefits.
I also regularly make kefir [cheese], as this is easily made from cow or goat milk and does not require any special equipment. Kefir grains can be purchased from Marilyn the Kefir Lady. Kefir grains last pretty much forever, in fact they keep growing and I have to periodically give some away. Marilyn also has recipes on her site for making kefir cheese.
I also make fresh yogurt and buy the starter from Cheesemaking.com. My favorite product of theirs is the kefir culture. This sets up like yogurt, but I much prefer the flavor to the
other yogurt cultures that they sell. It also doesn't require any special equipment and can be cultured at room temperature. This differs from the kefir made with kefir grains in that the kefir
made with kefir grains is much more liquid than that made with kefir culture.
I also recently found an interesting site: http://bodyecology.com/ where there are recipes for raw cultured vegetables. While I have not tried any of the recipes yet, I plan to quite soon.
Beet sugar is grown domestically, but most cane sugar is imported from
rare, infants are at greater risk or botulin poisoning, so children under 14 months should not be allowed to eat honey.
Q.: I've heard that honey can be used to treat wounds and burns. Is that true?
JWR Replies: According to a paper presented at an international wound healing conference in Australia, "Honey... has an excellent "track record" over 4 000 years of usage as a wound dressing. In recent times it has been "rediscovered", with numerous reports of animal model and clinical studies, case reports and randomised controlled trials showing it rates favourably alongside modern dressing materials in its effectiveness in managing wounds. Honey has a potent antibacterial activity and is very effective in clearing infection in wounds and protecting wounds from becoming infected. It also has a debriding action, an anti-inflammatory action, and a stimulatory effect on granulation and epithelialisation." Honey is best used on wounds by soaking it into bandages so that it doesn't seep or run away from the wound.
Although honey has been proven to have some efficacy on burns, I generally do
titled, "Black Monday" by R. Scott Reiss. It entails a scenario where a virus hits our oil supply and all the machines in the world stop working.
Monday February 26 2007
Poll Results: Best Occupations for Both Before and After TEOTWAWKI
In no particular order, the following are the first batch of responses to my poll question on the best occupations or home businesses for both before and after TEOTWAWKI:
Locksmith/Home security systems installer/repairman
--
Beekeeping
Small scale vegetable gardening.
Growing herbs (medicinal)
--
1) Electricity:
a. Recharge batteries for folks, rebuild the bad batteries, and lots of folks don't know squat about electricity for lighting, etc. Got several methods: Solar, miscellaneous generators powered by hand, animal, wind and even the old one lung gas engine with that darn heavy flywheel.
b. Also use the above for communications when there aren't cell phones or twisted pair communications. HF, VHF, UHF and Wi-Fi.
c. Also for Wi-Fi between homes and towns if computers survive.
2) Maintain RVs and trailers with their associated systems: furnaces, lighting, water, pumps, et al.
3) Make more Stills like the one I have and produce nerve tonic and fuel.
4) Medical: Apply those smelly herbs I find, grow and use. Not to mention sewing up the occasional cut and tear, set the odd bone and generally try to avoid surgery (Ha!) Let's not even talk about handling boils, although that will be around too.
5) Sorta medical: Collect, cure the Knick-Knick and sell tobacco.
6) Use my HF radios to send mail to and from families far away.
7) Make leather cups for pumps when there isn't any molded rubber around.
--
Growing and maintaining quality heritage based [heirloom /non-hybrid] produce for a local farmers market but also a "seed saver" program to provide quality heritage seeds for sale or barter for future gardens.
--
Almost anything in the medical field: EMT, Nurse, doctor
1. Survival skills trainer/practitioner (firearms instructor, gunsmith, hunter/trapper, adventure guide, blacksmith, carpenter (if with manual tools), plumber, cooper, potter, candle maker, stonemason/bricklayer, etc.). Skills that you can use or have value in trade, and that do not depend upon electricity are definitely the most valuable of all occupations. Having an array of these skills is the very best.
11. Lawyer (just kidding!)
--
Nurseryman with perennial food plants- berries, fruits, herbs, rhubarb, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, etc.
-
Tuesday February 20 2007
Letter Re: U.S. Civil War Era Hardtack Recipes From North and South
Sir,
These recipes are in addition to the letters on hard tack that you posted on your site:
Union Army Hardtack Recipe
2 cups of flour
1/2 to 3/4 cup water
1 tablespoon of Crisco or vegetable fat
6 pinches of salt
Mix the ingredients together into a stiff batter, knead several times, and spread the dough out flat to a thickness of 1/2 inch on a non-greased cookie sheet. Bake for one- half an hour at 400 degrees. Remove from oven, cut dough into 3-inch squares, and punch four rows of holes, four holes per row into the dough. Turn dough over, return to the oven and bake another one- half hour. Turn oven off and leave the door closed. Leave the hardtack in the oven until cool. Remove and enjoy!
Confederate Johnnie Cake Recipe
two cups of cornmeal
2/3 cup of milk
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon of salt
Mix ingredients into a stiff batter and form eight biscuit-sized "dodgers". Bake on a lightly greased sheet at 350 degrees for twenty to twenty five minutes or until brown. Or spoon the batter into hot cooking oil in a frying pan over a low flame. Remove the corn dodgers and let cool on a paper towel, spread with a little butter or molasses, and you have a real southern treat! Two main staples of that cataclysm--and maybe the next as well. Regards, - J.K.
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Monday February 19 2007
Letter Re: Kanban: America's Ubiquitous "Just in Time" Inventory System--A Fragile House of Cards
to eliminate; here are the 8 Wastes (to which I would add "E" for Energy to the TIM WOODS acronym, which now becomes TIMEWOODS :-)
Transport (excess)
Inventory (excess)
Motion
Energy
Waiting
Overproduction
Overprocessing
Defects
Skills, Savvy, Smarts (squandering the inherent genius in all people involved)
One of the factors that has strongly encouraged lean inventories is that many states levy an annual tax on business inventories of finished good or sometimes even semi-finished subassemblies. Also, under the Federal tax law,
----Something to very careful with when composting sawdust is to be absolutely sure you do not have any sawdust from pressure treated wood. There is a myriad of nasty chemicals in this wood that will destroy your compost heap. Sawdust should not be added directly to your garden because it absorbs and holds moisture and other nutrients. Wood ashes are fine, but only add 1 or 2% Phosphorus and 3 to 7% of potassium. Wood Ashes have an alkaline effect on your soil. I put eggs shells and coffee grounds and wood ashes directly into the garden all winter on top of the snow so as it melts in the spring it helps incorporate into the soil. Before I roto-till in April, any compost I have accumulated since the previous April goes in and then I get a load of Cow /Horse manure from a neighbor. Then I roto-till and let it set until mid to late May when I plant. One last thing: Never add Chicken manure directly to the growing garden unless it has "matured" for about a month or more. It is very high in nitrogen and tends to burn plants. - Carl In Wisconsin.
Dear Jim and Family,
I have a comment on the sawdust in soil issue: Sawdust absorbs between 12 and 32 times as much nitrogen as soil which does not contain it. The nitrogen helps it decay but the downside is that it makes the soil infertile. If someone tries to sell you "topsoil" and you can ID sawdust in it, you've just met an enemy who trying to pull a fast one on you, and with TEOTWAWKI looming, it could doom your whole family. The only solution to sawdust contamination in your soil is to dump a lot of nitrogen into your soil and let it fallow a year or two to convert all the sawdust into useful nutrients. Covering it in plastic sheeting and doing ammonia gas injection isn't a bad idea, as that will speed it along. Pay an expert for that. Its dangerous and explosive (Remember The Mosquito Coast? That was an Ammonia gas explosion). Then retest your soil with a kit from the farm supply store and wait for your balance to settle down. Then you can get back to building up the humic and folic acid values again (planting and harvesting crops). It's very irritating and I keep running into people who pull this particular fast one on the unsuspecting. Don't let them dump that ac**p on your land, and don't let them BS you into thinking its "good fer ya soil". It's not.
However, if the soil contains rice hulls, you've got a winner. Turns out rice hulls decay very slowly and don't absorb nitrogen but do wonders for your soil aeration, which lets roots breathe better and improves your plant health and fertility. Rice hulls are a good thing. Really good quality compost and potting soil has this. Perlite is much more common (tiny white volcanic glass beads) and does a similar task through not quite as well as rice hulls.
If your topsoil is full of clay, you'll need to add a lot more fertilizer as clay absorbs it into its crystal structure ([under a microscope] clay looks like a xylophone when it swells and shrinks depending on water content). The upshot of that is the nutrients act on your soil and plants for years afterwards so you can get your money's worth out of it. If you have too much clay in your soil, till in gypsum as it causes an important chemical/structural change. The clay reacts with gypsum and turns into small pellets which allows better aeration, drainage, and nutrient absorption. Its important to remember: Do not walk on wet clay soil. Make paths with boards around the beds. Don't compact the soil or your plants will die.
Its not too late to take a soils and horticulture or gardening class at your local community college, or look into books like "Gardening When It Counts", written by the greener side of the survival community.
One other important thing: if you use well water in volcanic areas, test it for boron or borate. Boron kills plants. Kills them really well. Its mostly harmless to humans, but to plants it's like their kryptonite, even worse than salt. Apparently using borax soap powder was a common prank for killing lawns in the 50's, though I'm not old enough to verify that one.
If your soil does get contaminated for some reason, you may need to either plant special crops to remove the toxins, or use a special chemical poison which destroys its fertility but kills everything (even nasty nematodes and soil parasites), or flood the soil for a few weeks to leach out the salts and then drain it off (method for removing sodium salt, potassium salt, selenium or borates from soil). You'll have to start from scratch with all but the plant method, rebuilding your soil fertility from ground zero takes years, most of the time, unless you've got a lot of chemical additives and a working tractor. If you want to do that, consult an expert (I'm just educated, not practically employed in that field), get a quote, and hire another expert to inspect the work.
And if you get insect problems, use sulphur based insecticides. Unless you're personally allergic to sulphur compounds they are the best bet for your soil. Plants tolerate sulphur well, and for some its an essential nutrient. It bonds to clay well and keeps out of the way after use so its win-win, for all but the allergic people.
Soils maps are easy to get from the federal government, as well as USGS, and most counties keep stocks of these maps though I've never felt the need to seek one out. I will when I someday buy a house so I know what I'm dealing with. Most government soils maps were made in the 40's and usually detail potential uses, indicating fish farms for poorly drained clay soils and suggested crops for specific soil types known to be naturally suited to them. Soil Survey Maps are a very good tool for retreat property hunting.
Incidentally, for desert soils, with irrigation and the right temperature range, will grow nearly anything. They are the most fertile soil type. You just have to avoid the borates and salt flats and washes (those aren't soils, just alluvium).Sincerely, - InyoKern
--Tuesday February 6 2007
Letter Re: Advice on Using Oak Acorns as a Survival Food
One anthropologist has speculated that it was the acorn as a diet staple that made the development of civilization in Europe possible. The tannins in acorns make them bitter, make you feel sick, and can cause liver damage. So it is important to leach out the tannins before eating acorns.
Here is the basic "how to" from the University of Illinois Extension Solutions Series: Around the House:
"Acorns are very high in tannins, which make them very bitter and astringent when eaten raw. They need to be boiled or roasted, or both to make them palatable. The sweetest nuts come from the white, burr, and chestnut oaks. The black, pin, and red oak acorns are bitter.
To use: Collect the acorns in the fall, when ripe. Remove the shells and caps. The shells will come off easier if you first slit them with a sharp knife. Boil the acorns whole for at least two hours, changing the water each time it becomes light brown in color. This boiling removes the bitterness and they become pleasantly sweet. You will find, after this boiling, that they are quite dark brown in color. Toast in a 350 degree F oven for another hour. They can then be eaten as they are or ground into flour."
Here is an article which includes some recipes for using acorns, that ran in one of my favorite magazines, Backwoods Home: "Harvesting the Wild: Acorns" by Jackie Clay
The latest news is that H5N1 has been found in farm poultry in England. It is just a matter of time before it makes its way into U.S. poultry flocks. But H5N1 is not in itself a big public health threat. It is the potential mutated variety "HX" that is the real threat. But for now, H5N1 has circled the globe and may become endemic. Everywhere that it exists, there is the chance that a viable "H2H" strain could emerge. When that happens, watch out!
Are you ready to self-quarantine your entire family to avoid exposure? If not, then you'd better get on the phone to a food storage vendor (there are several very reputable ones that are SurvivalBlog advertisers) and order an honest six month supply of food for your family. Do it NOW, because if you wait until after a flu outbreak, then it will be too late. The supermarket shelves will swept bare in less than 24 hours, nationwide. Human nature dictates that this will happen. That is what people always do in emergencies. We just haven't yet seen it happen from coast to coast.
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Thursday February 1 2007
Letter Re: Heirloom / Open Pollinated Seeds
--lost society and its values (or the lack thereof), and should serve as a strong reminder to the Patriot to exercise great caution not only in sharing, but in even discussing your preps. Keep up the good work, Jim. Yours in Jesus Christ our Lord, - Scott in California
JWR Replies: In my novel "Patriots" I describe a couple of methods for dispensing charity "at arm's length." One of them is through a local church. The other would be reserved for absolute worst case situation, where you would literally keep refugees off at a distance, at gun point, while you dole out food as charity. That might not sound very Christian, but it might come down to that, in a situation where law and order has completely broken down.
---blight destroyed much of the maize crop around 900 AD and probably caused the collapse of the Mayan civilization. I would recommend a trip to the library since the article is a good, sobering and interesting read, as is the October 1998 National Geographic on population and feeding the planet. Several organizations, such as The Seed Savers Exchange, have been established for education and as sources for open-pollinated seed. I find it a bit of a chuckle that many people put such an emphasis of a year's supply of food, but do not store usable seed, canning supplies and the like. What if, for hypothetical example, a flu pandemic in the US occurred and the duration was more than a few months? What if there was a new disease outbreak in our food crops, for example a new fungus attacked our wheat supply in a wet year? The trouble with genetically identical (hybrid) crops is that they would all be at risk. That is the primary risk one runs with most of your caloric food base being dependent on one or two grain or starch crops.
The US used to be ready for such a crisis, but not anymore.
never planted the stuff, he found himself in court. The company (Monsanto) sued him (successfully!) when their gene was found in his crops, Even though he grew his own seed and his was contaminated. Shows a break down of common sense in the judiciary, which is no big surprise. The other problem is that by having terminator seeds, it allows direct corporate control of farmers by a corporation or government. In other words, they control what you can grow to insure 'customer loyalty'.
For more on Percy Schmeiser see:
Percyschmeiser.com/
Sierraclub.ca
Currently only a handful of companies control most of the US seed and nursery market.
A recent Countryside and Small Stock Journal article titled "Do you know where your seeds come from? You may be surprised…. The Gardening Game". The article highlights this consolidation [of seed vendors] in the US market place.
Sources of open pollinated/heirloom seeds:
http://www.seedstrust.com/
http://www.seedsavers.org/
http://www.seedsave.org/
http://www.rareseeds.com/
http://www.victoryseeds.com/
http://www.bountifulgardens.org/
http://www.abundantlifeseed.org/
http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/
JWR Adds: A wide assortment of heirloom seeds are also available from The Ark Institute
Unique/heirloom plants and nursery stock:
http://www.treesofantiquity.com/
http://www.onegreenworld.com
http://www.raintreenursery.com
An Internet search for heirloom seed or open-pollinated seed will turn up many more sources.
Basic "how to" instructions for saving seeds:
http://www.seedsavers.org/
http://www.seedsave.org/
Several books on saving seeds, including:
Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners by Suzanne Ashworth
Seed Sowing and Saving: Step-By-Step Techniques for Collecting and Growing More Than 100 Vegetables, Flowers, and Herbs (Storey's Gardening Skills Illustrated) -- by Carole B. Turner
Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties: The Gardener's & Farmer's Guide to Plant Breeding & Seed Saving -- by Carol Deppe
Saving Seeds: The Gardener's Guide to Growing and Storing Vegetable and Flower Seeds -- by Marc Rogers, et al
Books on gardening and edible landscape design:
" How to Grow Vegetables and Fruits by the Organic Method", Rodale Press, out of print, but easy to find at used bookstores or e-bay.
How to Grow More Vegetables: And Fruits, Nuts, Berries, Grains, and Other Crops Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine by John Jeavons (Paperback - Mar 2002)
Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew
Introduction to Permaculture by Bill Mollison and Slay Reney-Mia
Gaia's Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture by Toby Hemenway and John Todd
Greenhouse Gardener's Companion: Growing Food and Flowers in Your Greenhouse or Sunspace by Shane Smith and Marjorie C. Leggitt
Designing And Maintaining Your Edible Landscape Naturally by Rosalind Creasy (Foreword), et al.
http://www.foodforeveryone.org/
http://www.gardensimply.com/
http://www.carryongardening.org.uk/
http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/perma.html
http://www.permacultureactivist.net/
http://www.foodnotlawns.com/
http://www.cwo.com/~bart/perm_links.htm
http://www.sherrysgreenhouse.com/
Also refer to the extension service of your state university.
The some articles on plant disease threats:
http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20050924/food.asp
Dangerous Wheat Disease Jumps Red Sea.
http://www.grain.org/seedling/?id=108
VOA News
Then you add into the fray the mess politics can make of crops and farm policies. Worst case:
From The Christian Science Monitor
From The Daily Telegraph
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Thursday January 25 2007
Two Letters Re: Survival Biscuits
Mr. Rawles:
Regarding SF in Hawaii's letter about hardtack biscuits posted on January 21st,
Sir:
Has anyone ever looked at Scottish shortbread for survival food? Basically butter, flour, salt, and sugar. Tastes good and high in fat. I had some in a plastic Baggie for well over a month. Looked at it and ate it. No problem. - EhB
JWR Replies: Shortbread could be an option, but I'd worry about the storage life of shortbread--particularly in warm weather--given its high butter content. (The butterfat could go rancid.) In contrast, hard tack has long been proven to store very well.
The following dates back to pre-Y2K, but I still find it applicable to far too many people [that live] around me:
"The Pollyanna Mantra"
I have always relied upon the complex interdependencies of society
They have never failed me in the past.
They will, therefore, never fail me in the future.
I do not need to prepare for any problems.
* Meat comes to me in shrink-wrapped packages.
* Vegetables have no dirt on them. They are always crisp and shiny.
* Fish is a food product that has no bones.
* Bread is neatly sliced and packaged. It Builds Strong Bodies Twelve Ways.
* Potatoes are long, rectangular cubes that have salt sprinkled on them. I drive my car past a window to obtain them.
* Light is provided to me 24 hours a day by glass bulbs. It is never dark.
* Power for my appliances lives in the wall. I plug into it whenever I want to.
* I have books. They are used for filling the empty space on my shelves.
* Entertainment comes to me in a large box. It has many channels.
* Sometimes I see wars in far away places on the box. Wars do not affect me personally. Wars are entertainment. Wars are not waged near where I live.
* Heat comes to me as I turn up a thermostat.
* Cool air comes to me as I turn down a thermostat.
* Clothing comes to me pre-sewn, in my size.
* When the county fair comes, I go to see the horses, cows, pigs and sheep. I do not know where they live after the county fair goes away.
* Factories are far away places. They make things for me. I buy them.
* I get to other places in marvelous vehicles that come to me in showrooms. I do not know how to build them, or to fix them.
* My children are educated by people smarter than me. I have forgotten all I learned in school.
* Peace is maintained in my neighborhood by good men in blue uniforms. They have guns. I do not. If I press 3 buttons on my phone, they will come and help me.
* Medical assistance can also be obtained instantly, ..via the same three buttons.
* My s**t does not stink. It goes down a porcelain hole. It goes away.
* If anything goes wrong, I will look in the Yellow Pages and call someone to fix it.
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---3rd-party mind-control:Because an "emergency" is outside the "normal" range of events, people will tend to react to thoughts about disasters emotionally, not
intellectually, because that is what people do when dealing with things that they have not trained for (which is why you keep hearing "practice, practice, practice!"). By definition, people reacting emotionally are not acting rationally or thoughtfully, even when they by chance do something right.
If someone starts acting in any way belligerent, and says they are coming over in spite of your saying or implying that they may not be welcome, it might not be the best thing you can do to say something that they might interpret as a threat. Saying you also stock up on ammo has several problems: it scares them by being a veiled threat to their lives or security, which will make them even more irrational and reactionary; it puts you into that "loon with guns" category; it turns them off to being prepared themselves for a lot of reasons, including "we don't want to be like that
survivalist nut that threatened us!"; lastly, it's telling them that if they ever do come over, they need to gang up and be sneaky about it (giving them a tactical advantage). You normally want to avoid give a potentially shooting-war enemy any kind of info on how to best take you out. Obviously there might be situations where it would "shut them up," but it may not get them on the path to independence; it may just make them think they are helpless, and vote for more government programs (and we know how great those are....)
A better approach might be to ask "well, what if when you come over you are the fifth in a line of families who also came over, and they don't want to share, or there isn't any left? Or, what if I move away for a new job and the disaster hits the following week? Then what?" You are putting the threat of them starving, or freezing, or whatever into a neutral frame of reference, where you are not the threat, the situation or some unnamed third party is. It is imperative to keep it neutral, so they can think rationally rather than emotionally or defensively, and they don't think of you as the
enemy, but think of the disaster situation as the enemy. Stress that independence is the goal, and anything that makes them dependant on you hurts both if something bad happens to you.
If they say or imply that they would be willing and able to take your preparation supplies by force (saying "I've got guns, you have food. By the end of the day I'll have both" for example), that's a whole different turn of events. They have just declared to the world that they are a sociopath, a looter in waiting, with means and motive to attack you in a disaster situation. If you have stocked up on ammo (of course you have, right?), don't make it a pissing match about who has more or better stuff; a simple "there are likely easier targets you might want to try to take ammo from
than my neighborhood, unless you are really good at detecting booby-traps and dodging lead bumble-bees from multiple directions" puts it terms that they will likely understand. It's vague enough to not get you into trouble, but implies a lot of things they might take to heart, even if you don't currently have any booby-trap plans, and you are the only one in the cul-de-sac with a gun and thorough disaster plans. Then immediately leave or kick them out; don't hang around for them to gather more info about you. Always keep it civil, polite, and neutral. There is no benefit in making enemies; winning friends, expanding your mutual-assistance and mutual-defense circles are the goal, and you cannot do that making threats (direct or veiled), scaring people, insulting people, or making them angry or confused. Once they are onboard with the idea, then you can get into details. - Rolf
---type neighbor and his family, and the family on the other side. Pretty soon the fast talking neighbor decides that they should form a "democracy" to determine who is in charge in your retreat, and how the food and supplies are split – "fairly". This is the type that would probably cut a secret deal with the other neighbor too. Never lose sight of the fact that it is your stuff. Your stuff is not up for re-distribution. Remember the new golden rule. Those who have the gold make the rules. Not very Christian? Well , I disagree, you can, and I think should, give charitably, but that most certainly does not mean surrendering to others and becoming an indigent in short time yourself, and more so, putting your family in that situation.
Finally, let us also admit here that letting people you our retreat/home/bunker can be dangerous. We all must sleep, and are vulnerable when we do. The very last thing you want to do is wake up to someone holding your gun on you. Consider security, be charitable, but guarded, especially as to whom you grant your trust. - Rourke
--The history of biscuits started off in Rome around the 3rd Century BC. The word biscuit comes from the Latin bis coctum which means "twice-baked". Back then, a biscuit was a thin unleavened wafer, quite hard, and with a very low water content - hence the name "twice-baked". The advantage of the low water content was that the biscuit would have a long shelf-life, because it wouldn't get moldy. Adding eggs or meat to the biscuit mix increases protein content but it will not last as long. Mixing a complementary proteins (grains with dairy, grains with beans and beans with seeds) will provide a more complete protein and have a longer shelf life. When properly made, they travel well and are satisfying and nutrient dense. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: "Hard tack" biscuits, "ship's biscuits", or "pilot bread" have long been a staple for trappers, explorers, sled team mushers, seamen, and mining prospectors. They are a compact food with decent shelf life, and easy to digest. Modern plastic zip lock bag packaging can keep them dry and fresh--eliminating the "soggy, moldy biscuits" problem cited by 19th Century explorers. I like your idea of mixing in beans to form a more complete protein. Pound for pound, there are few foods--aside for some freeze dried marvels--that can compare with a combination of hardtack, jerky, peanut butter, honey, and dried fruit. Just be sure that your digestive system can cope with this diet before trying to subsist on it for more than a couple of days. You might need to add some natural roughage such as bran flakes, or perhaps even a commercial
FWIW, here is a compilation of my top 15 survival fantasies and misconceptions:
1. You can fit everything you need for extended survival in a backpack
2. A single shot not hitting the brain or spinal cord less or than .40/.44/.45 caliber will stop an attacker before he can kill you
3. I don't need to bring that much water
4. The government is here to help
5. I'm in good enough shape right now to hike 20 miles with a 70 pound pack
6. Everything I have stored still works, hasn't expired, I know how to use it and I know where it is
7. I can buy what I need at the first sign of impending crisis
8. My kids can keep up with me on an extended hike
9. Farming/livestock/hunting/fishing/trapping are easy to learn from a book, I don't need practical experience
10. God will help me. I'll be in the right place at the right time if I am a good person
11. I can argue/discuss/bargain with a bad guy(s). I don't have to shoot them.
12. If I shoot them, I can wound them, I don't have to kill.
13. By virtue of my obvious survival knowledge, foresight and preparedness, my family/friends/neighbors will agree that I am the best suited to lead our newly formed fledgling survival group and will listen and carry out my suggestions.
14. Life in TEOTWAWKI will be fun. Since there will be no more taxes/bills/mortgage to pay and I don't have to show up for work it will be hard but rewarding. Add that to the satisfaction of being able to say "I told you so" and given my preparations, I'll be better off then than I am now.
15. My stash of silver pre-1965 coins will let me live like a king
Survival fantasies. We all have them, and we all need to lose them. - SF in Hawaii
---over-specialization, and lengthy supply chains. In the First World, less than 2% of the population is engaged in agriculture or fishing. Ponder that for a moment: Just 2% are feeding the other 98%. The food on our tables often comes from hundreds if not thousands of miles away. Our heating and lighting is provided by power sources typically hundreds of miles away. For many people even their tap water travels hundreds of miles. Our factories produce sophisticated cars and electronics that have subcomponents that are sourced on three continents. It is as if we are all cogs in an enormous invisible machine
---stories like: "Suzie Smith brought the flu bug home from school. Everyone in her family died." and, "Mr. Jones brought the flu home from work. Everyone in his family died." Over and over. Repeated so many times that the majority of citizens decides "I'm not going to go to work tomorrow, or the day after, or in fact until after 'things get better.'" But by not going to work, some important cogs will be missing from the Big Machine. Orders won't get processed at the Wal-Mart distribution center. The 18 Wheel trucks won't make deliveries to groceries stores. Gas stations will run out of fuel. Policemen and firemen won't show up at work. Telephone technicians will call in sick. Power lines will get knocked down in wind storms, and there will be nobody to repair them. Crops will rot in the fields because there will be nobody to pick them, or transport them, or magically bake them into Pop-Tarts, or stock them on your supermarket shelf. The Big Machine will be broken.
Does this sound scary? Sure it does, and it should. The implications are huge. But it gets worse: The average suburbanite only has about a week's worth of food in their pantry. What will they do when it is gone, and there is no reasonably immediate prospect of re-supply? Supermarket shelves will be stripped bare. Faced with the alternative of staying home and starving or going out to meet Mr. Influenza, millions of growling stomachs will force Joe American to go and "forage." The first likely targets will be restaurants, stores, and food distribution warehouses. Not a few "foragers" will soon transition to full scale looting, taking the little that their neighbors have left. Next, they'll move on to farms that are in close proximity to cities. A few looters will form gangs that will be highly mobile and well-armed, ranging deeper and deeper into farmlands, running their vehicles on siphoned or stolen-at-gunpoint gasoline. Eventually their luck will run out and they will all die of the flu, or of instantaneous lead poisoning. But before the looters are all dead they will do a tremendous amount of damage. Be ready to confront them. Your life, and the lives of your loved ones will count on it. You'll need to be able to put a lot of lead down range--at least enough to convince Mr. Looter that he needs to go find some other farm or ranch to loot.
---"greedy hoarder." Saying "I would have a hard time justifying taking food out of my children's mouth tomorrow to feed a casual acquaintance today, especially if we did not know when services were going to be restored and supplies replaced" puts a whole different appearance on it.
Information is your friend; don't start by telling them what you have, what you have planned, how stupid they are for not being equally well prepared, etc. Find out a bit about their mind-set, skill-set, resources, and then go from there in the best direction. Best of luck with your next "conversion" into the mindset of independence and preparedness!
---Letter Re: Dog Food Alternatives and Dog Food Safety Warnings
Jim,
Regarding Ginger B feeding her dog baked potatoes: Always be certain that potatoes are cut into small pieces before feeding them to dogs. Many of them (large dogs in particular) will simply swallow a baked potato whole, leading to awful problems and potentially, death. Another food that most folks are unaware of any danger from is onion, which is lethal to dogs and cats. Be careful not to feed them table scraps that have onion mixed in with them, not even in flavoring agents. The result of onion toxicity is anemia, which is difficult for the lay-person to diagnose (it can creep up slowly over weeks of time).
There are other foods one needs to be aware of too. Most people know about chocolate [toxicity for dogs] but coffee beans, grapes/raisins and macadamia nuts
Thursday January 11 2007
Ten Things That Will Get You Killed While Bugging In, by Paul C.
"Bugging in" is the term used for staying at home while waiting for an event to pass you by. [As opposed to "bugging out"--fleeing to a lightly populated region.] Even the largest civil events of the last one hundred years haven't set society off here in the United States of its normal course for more than two weeks. Double that for a month and you'll survive, or out survive, any event likely to hit.
After whatever event that has set society on its end has struck the 99 out of one hundred people that haven't prepared for survival are going to be out looking for supplies. Those people will have some sort of firearm likely and as hunger, dehydration, and panic set in they will become more and more willing to use violence as a means to secure what they want from you. I recommend keeping the lowest possible profile possible as stealth is one of the best weapons available.
1. Starvation.
You need to have enough food on your shelves for at least a month. Stock up on military MREs, canned soups, and canned meats. Foods that do not require cooking are a bonus as they can be quickly eaten without generating a fire
--- Realize that some food containers will rot out fairly quickly – use clean soda bottles rather then milk containers if you're storing water on the cheap.
3. Exposure to Extreme Weather.
The weather is something that continues even when we're having problems. Imagine your home without the normal supply of electrical and natural gas energy during the worse spell of weather a typical winter can throw at you. Without a source of energy your home will do little more than supply shelter from the wind and rain or snow. Propane heaters can provide clean burning heat but like any source of combustion they require a supply of fresh air less they burn up all the oxygen in the room. Do not burn charcoal indoors as it not only burns up the oxygen it gives off deadly carbon monoxide.Synthetic materials that retain some warming ability even when wet are important. Keep your feet, hands, head and neck warm as they are where most heat is lost from. Mittens are far better at keeping hands warm then gloves. A tiny hole can allow the use of the trigger finger.
---Red filters will help keep the use of light discrete. Draw your shades or blinds like normal and then nail blankets, cardboard, or better yet, pre-prepared plywood over the insides. This effort will keep in heat, hold down the noise, block light, and add some protection against looters or attackers.
6. Smoke.
Smoke can be seen for a great distance as can the smell of it or cooking food. ---
8. Activity.
If you're trying to remain hidden in plain sight motion will certainly give you away. Chores that require you to leave the house should be done only after dark. Wear dark clothing or better camouflage that matches your environment. Resting during the day and patrolling or gathering after dark maintains the lowest profile. If you do have to move about during the day stay off of trails, streets, and ridge lines where you're likely to be seen first. The use of passive night vision goggles can help greatly---
Nuclear weapons kill by blast and radiation. Dirt is your friend with both forms of energy. Ideally being shielded by massive quantities of dirt is the best protection. Living on the far side of a mountain or having a basement shelter where you can keep below the initial blast of radiation. Fallout is radioactive matter in the dust and debris that follows a blast. Most fallout settles within hours, within days it is almost completely gone. Weather can help with rainfall and high winds. The longer you can stay sheltered the lower your chance of getting radiation sickness is. Filtering the air within your shelter can be done with gas masks. You should become familiar with the fit and feel of a mask prior to needing one. Protecting against some chemical agents is similar to nuclear fallout. Those chemicals that are dust like can be filtered with ease, gas-like agents will dissipate with time and wind. Oily chemicals can spread with contact with contaminated surfaces. Wearing disposable chemical resistant coveralls, gloves, and over-boots can keep contaminates outside when coming back indoors. Biological agents are greatly affected by the weather and can be rendered harmless by sun, rain, cold, and heat. Avoiding them is a matter of keeping buttoned up for a few days or possibly weeks.
10. Communications
It is only natural to desire to communicate with outside loved ones. This will normally require the use of a amateur "ham" radio, CB, or FRS radio. Realize that the ability to track the source of communications isn't that difficult. Amateur radio clubs do "fox hunts" to practice finding hidden transmitters. If you do use radio communications keep them short and cryptic if the event becomes really serious and to the point where people are getting desperate. One time pads can be used – both parties have a look-up table to decode prearranged phrases. These are changed each patrol. Have a wideband scanner receiver so that you can listen for the authorities or even on other [survival] group's communications. - Paul C.
-----All the stored seed, fancy heirloom varieties in the world will not feed your people if you're not educated and experienced in gardening in your area. The spot of your refuge may have a very different microclimate than where you live now.
Use that brain; you must absolutely get "Hands on" experience growing that food in sufficient quality/quantity to do the job now, not later. Later is too late. I promise you that growing beans or tomatoes at sea level here in Olympia, Washington. Is very different than at 3,000 feet of elevation in intermountain Idaho.
Own hardcopy books on this subject stored at the retreat, the Internet will be down and memory may not serve.
Now to the "must know/must have" list for garden food:
Seed; only varieties that your family will eat, that fit your microclimate, degree days, and total growing season. Find out what these terms mean. Opt for open pollinated ["heirloom'], stay away from exotics and hybrids. Learn how to save seed.
Prep; new garden soil will rarely produce well without changing its chemistry, adding organic matter, or adding structure. Gardens need a lot of water. Figure how to gravity feed irrigate unless you can store a lot of fuel for the generator. All this must be done ahead of time before the real need arises. Put back extra Dolomite. Find and store manures and other organic materials. Store extra garden tools.
Start; Many "bug out" areas have climate challenges for gardeners; consider cold frames and other season extenders. Get these in place ahead of time, plastic row covers, fiberglass panels and the like may be hard to find later.
You must get in tune with your local growing season and this takes practice. What would happen to your family if your garden frosted out and you had planted all the seed you had stored? Always hold some seed back. Some areas frost every month so get educated and prepare a defense.
Store; Once you've grown it, defended the crop from rabbits, deer, etc. you're not done yet. Eat all you can yes, process the rest. Family food consumption lists are available or you can estimate what each person will eat per week then add it all up. Add some more for charity or refugees. This represents a lot of quart jars, rings, lids, and other supplies for just a small family for a year. What if the situation lasts longer?
Consider dehydration for some foodstuffs, pickling or salting for others and of course all this needs practice before need too. The root cellar seems to be a forgotten art but works well as does leaving root crops in the ground to be dug when needed. They must be covered to protect against freezing and rot.
Perennials need a mention here also. Berries, rhubarb, sunchokes, and fruit/nut trees can be planted and will just be waiting for you. Plant more than you can use as folk that have been eating groats for the last two months will make amazing trades for fresh fruit.
Food growing augments the bulk grains and beans you own and makes for a better all around diet than all those freeze dried packages in the closet the last 10 years. As with any food program just make sure what you grow and store is what your family will eat.
If all this seems like too much work, it is; what is the plan "B"?
P.S.: We live on the west side of Washington State and just experienced a huge storm, [which resulted in] more than a week without power for many people in the region. Attitudes went downhill fast. Any major disruption would be much worse, so this is a real wake up call. - Bill K.
----If you have any ground that is swampy from spring to fall on your property ("wetlands" in the modern politically correct parlance), consider planting domesticated wild rice in those areas. Technically "wild rice" isn't really rice at all, since it is in the grass genus (Zirzania) rather than the rice genus (Oryza.) Like other grain growing, planting wild rice will also attract waterfowl and other birds, which can be a mixed blessing. So consider a shotgun and beau coup shotgun shells to be part of your assortment grain growing essential tools.
Sprouting: To get the maximum nutrition from the grain that you raise, you should plan to sprout the majority of it. For some details on sprouting, see the article "Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods", by SF in Hawaii. It is one the writing contest winners posted at the SurvivalBlog Writing Contest page. Lay in supplies for sprouting and practice the art of sprouting before the balloon goes up!
Practice, practice, practice!: As with any other newly acquired skill, grain raising, harvesting, storage, milling, and sprouting will take practice. Develop your expertise now, when any mistakes will be merely humorous blunders rather than potentially life-threatening disasters.
---Semi-rural and rural families have the possibility of long term survival with adequate preparedness.
1. Everything starts with planning. The first of every year should be list of what is needed for survival. If you're just starting. Then a list for three to six months is a good starting place. After that long term projects and items are included in subsequent lists. Every year I make a list of at least twenty-five goals in the area of survival to accomplish. Every hour of actual preparedness should be directly related to an equal time in study and planning. A good survival library is a must.
2. Study and research into the field of Survival will become your second job. This is serious study and not just reading internet blogs. Several months ago I was annoyed by a lady that was asking questions on an internet site that revealed that she had only an elementary school level of knowledge of first aid and was totally clueless about nuclear fallout. Yet she had found time to post over 850 entries over the last six months, but not had bothered to do even the most basic reading.
3. Your bug out bag should be in your car and contain what is needed to get home if the roads are gridlocked and you have to walk. Your home should be your survival outpost. The last thing you should become is a fleeing refugee being herded into a government refugee camp.
4. Develop an operation plan that details what each family member is expected for them to do during the first 72 hours of a situation. Different tasks for different situations. This will keep a focus on accomplishing necessary tasks that will make the difference between a family's survival or succumbing to the disaster.
5. Prepare for those that are welcome to hunker-down with you. This is the worse part; you must give a warning in uncompromising language that others must come prepared to your gate. Recently my best friend from childhood observe red one of my many storage shelves and exclaimed, "Why should I prepare, I'm coming to stay with you if anything happens". Sadly I had to inform him if he showed at the gate with nothing but his appetite, he would be turned away. He asked if our lifelong friendship didn't mean anything. I simply replied, "Which one of my children goes hungry, so that I can feed you?"
6. Do include those that you know well that are willing to make the commitment to actively contribute and not be a burden to your family's survival. Two other families will join us in their campers and they have already stored their year's supply of dehydrated food in our basement. Besides, you will always need the additional firepower in an unpleasant situation.
Summary: Preparedness is an ongoing lifestyle. Survivors usually survive by hunkering-down in place, well prepared and mentally conditioned. The secret is to maintain a well prepared and strongly defended low profile habitat and keep your wits while other are losing their's.
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Product Review - RAD-60 Personal Dosimeter from Finland |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day:
Thursday December 14 2006
Letter Re: Property Owning "Refugees" on Adjoining Property
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JWR Replies: You are correct that most owners of vacation property have the idea kicking around in a dusty corner of their mind that they could use that property as a retreat in the event of an emergency. If we enter an era of deep drama, the legal status of "squatters" versus deeded landholders will be worlds apart: Squatters could and probably will be forced from public or private holdings by your local sheriff's department or by the BLM or US Forest Service. But for those that occupy land that they legally own--regardless of how poorly provisioned they are--there would be no recourse for the sheriff's deputies unless or until the newcomers actually started committing thefts or robberies. This is one of the reasons that I place strong emphasis on A.) Storing extra to dispense in charity, and B.) Getting to know all of your neighbors. The latter includes making the effort to introduce yourself to absentee owners that are only there seasonally. (Or, "deer seasonally"--as is the case of one of ours that that has an undeveloped parcel just three miles away. (That is considered practically "next door" by l
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rifle in that caliber.") Also, make provision to coordinate security with them. For example by purchasing a spare military surplus field telephones and a couple of "doughnuts" of WD-1 commo wire.) Don't underestimate the impact of of "landed refugees." The good news is that if they can afford to own a vacation cabin, then they can probably also afford to stock it properly. But the bad news is that if they don't stock their cabins then they will become charity cases at best, or potentially even confrontational armed looters in a "worst case."
---"Salt is (1) very cheap now (2) can be sold in small packages at market (3) virtually impossible to obtain in TEOTWAWKI if you are away from the ocean (4) required for life. Add in iodized salt and doubly so. Remember the Goiter belts? (5) Divisible as it is a powder (6) recognizable by taste (7) virtually indestructible." And "A $100 investment in salt now could easily be worth a fortune in another time and place."
I have noted the importance of salt for home canning, meat preservation, and hide tanning in a post-electric world, and have one pound boxes of iodized salt taking up space in my basement already. Now factor in that for our water softener I have salt delivered to my door at fifteen cents per pound in 40 lb bags (also already stacked up and taking up space in my basement!). There's 250 lbs of salt already on hand and taking up storage space that could be freed up. I think the course is clear. My shelter ceiling will be filled with salt. It is cheap, easy to obtain, easily dividable into marketable sizes, needed for life, and when sealed in the plastic bags it is delivered in and stored in what is probably the driest place in my home – ought to store forever.
JWR Adds: Be sure to over-engineer the bracing required when you add weight to a basement ceiling. A "dead load" can become a killing load
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end of 28foode.txt (best clips)
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28foodf.txt (best parts):
Friday November 17 2006
Letter Re: Barter as an Investment and a Hedge
While barter for necessities is one possibility, barter for wealth is another. A poor man with a small investment in an essential TEOTWAWKI item can magnify his wealth. If you are not in a position to outfit yourself with the food/weapons/tools you would like now, consider a barter investment. Something you can get cheaply now, and then trade for the items that are currently out of your budget.
When choosing barter goods for storage, consider seven things. Original cost, size, availability, need, divisibility, verification, and indestructibility.
Items stored for barter should:
(1) Have a very low initial cost. In this way, barter becomes an investment, hedging against TEOTWAWKI
(2) Be small enough to take to market easily
(3) Be things very easy to obtain now and virtually impossible to obtain later due to the manufacturing process involved.
(4) Be things that you cannot easily live without
(5) Be easily divisible into smaller units
(6) Be easily and universally verifiable as being non-counterfeit
(7) Be resistant to the elements and time
I put forth Iodized salt. In Roman times, soldiers were paid in salt at the rate of about 150 pounds per year. That's less than 1/2 a pound a day.
The word salary comes from the word salt. In some parts of the ancient world, salt and gold were traded equally by weight.
You may consider the loss of salt a minor inconvenience but that is not so. You eat salt all day long without knowing it. Soda, bread, every food you eat is loaded with it. If you were truly given a salt free diet (no processed foods) and had to do any kind of manual labor, the sweat loss of salt could literally kill you. Iodine is a heavy element that washes away with the rain and so is not found in mountainous areas and away from the oceans. Lack of iodine causes goiter.
Salt is (1) very cheap now (2) can be sold in small packages at market (3) virtually impossible to obtain in TEOTWAWKI if you are away from the ocean (4) required for life. Add in iodized salt and doubly so. Remember the Goiter belts? (5) Divisible as it is a powder (6) recognizable by taste (7) virtually indestructible.
My second choice is the .22 rimfire cartridge which satisfies numbers 2,3,5, and 6. A $100 investment in salt now could easily be worth a fortune in another time and place. - SF in Hawaii
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Odds 'n Sods: |Main| The Forgotten Survival Skill: Physical Fitness, by Ron D.
Friday November 10 2006
Two Letters Re: Alcohol and Tobacco as Barter Items
Mr. Rawles:
Thanks to Warhawke for his very well written article. There are two items conspicuous in their absence, tobacco and alcohol. I seem to remember reading somewhere, perhaps in the novel Lucifer's Hammer, that people will always w---Gets You Ready" preparedness course, if I were to stock any sort of liquor, it would probably be 190 proof Everclear, which can be used for medicinal purposes, can be burned in lamps and some stoves, and can be used to fuel wick-type cigarette lighters such as the legendary Zippo.
survive, but a large supply of barter goods as well. I had first aid supplies, water purification tabs, a nice collection of knives, guns, and ammunition, and a number of items that Frank's novel pointed out would be in short supply post disaster. Things like coffee, salt, and batteries were all part of my emergency supplies.
When I turned 18 I joined the Army and volunteered for Special Forces just so I----
Do Your Prior Planning
If you haven't made a list of supplies – and this should be a total list of supplies, not just the ones you still need – get one made, copy one from the Internet or use one from FEMA or the Red Cross. Break it into manageable sections or categories. I use "kits" for my lists. There's a "Water Kit" that lists all things pertaining to water; canteens, holders, cups, filters, spares, etc. There's a Food Kit, Shelter Kit, Commo Kit, Light Kit, Knife Kit, Gun Kit, and the always needed Miscellaneous Kit. My Kits lists go on for over 20 pages, but when I have all of that equipment together and ready to go then I'll know I'm almost prepared. Make you a list and make it complete.
Now do an inventory of all of the things you already have. You may be surprised at the number of things you can check off your list. If you are a hunter, no doubt you already have one or more hunting knives, you should have boots, and field clothing, you may have a small pack you use in the field and canteens or water bottles. You probably carry rope, maybe a compass, and you might carry a pack saw, hatchet, or machete to clear your fields of fire. And, you already have some items to add to your gun kit.
Are you a camper, backpacker, canoeist, boater, fisherman or outdoors type person? Then you've already got some preparedness equipment – mark it off the list. As you mark it off the list, put today's date on it. That will at least give you a reference for how old something might be so you'll know when you may need to replace it.
Obviously, you're not going to put a date on every item. For instance, I wouldn't put a date on my military compass w/tritium markings, but I would put a date on my inventory sheet just as a reference. Dating items becomes important when you have to rotate stock (canned foods) or replace outdated items (medications). These items not only need to have the date on the item, but each one should be dated on your inventory sheets, as well.
Looking for What You Need
Once you've done your inventory and compared it to your list, you can make your list of items still needed. Now's when the fun starts – it's time to start looking for the items you still need. I have spent countless hours on the Internet looking for distributors, comparing prices, doing Google searches, writing to chat groups looking for items or advice, and, yes, actually ordering many of the items I need. I know, JWR recommends we not order online using our credit cards because it puts us in somebody's database, but by the time I got that advice it was way too late for me. I figure I'm already in so many databases they'll be too confused to worry about me anyway.Set Priorities
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With water as # 1 priority in a survival situation I decided to make it my # 1 priority in becoming prepared. I already had two military canteens from my ---water purification tabs to complete my water kits in all of my emergency kits. Obviously that's not the only items in my water kits but this gives you some idea of how I went about completing my purchases.
My First Aid Kit was next, although I did make a few purchases toward getting w---In Conclusion
Get prepared – that is, make your lists, do your inventories, and know ahead of time what you need. Stay alert for sales and opportunities to purchase at reduced prices. And buy what you can when you can, save for the things you need, and no matter what you're still missing when TSHTF you'll be far better off than if you did nothing.
Don't depend on Uncle Sam – he cannot and will not do it all. Don't depend on friends and family – they all have their own to take care of. Stock up for yourself and be ready to share with those less fortunate and in need.---
Monday November 6 2006
Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods, by SF in Hawaii
One of the problems with stored food is the inevitable deterioration of the vitamin content. You don't have to worry about the mineral content going anywhere but vitamins are notoriously fragile. While many have asked for the best kind of multi-vitamin supplement for long term storage, the answer for the survival community is simpler. Many of us have buckets of wheat stored. So make wheat sprouts and wheatgrass juice.
Vitamins increase substantially during the sprouting process. In regards to wheat, vitamin B-12 quadruples, other B vitamins increase from 3 to 12 times and the vitamin E content triples. Vitamins A, K and others also increase. Amino acid levels (the building blocks of proteins) similarly increase and fiber content increases three to four times that of whole wheat bread.
Dry seeds, grains, and legumes are rich in protein and complex carbohydrates but contain no vitamin C. Fortunately, the sprouting process creates 20 milligrams of Vitamin C per 3.5 ounces of wheat.
Sprouts can be eaten in as little as 48 hours after soaking (and rinsing). No light is required for the first few days and at this stage, they are more grain than vegetable. Over time (and with light) chlorophyll begins to form and they transition from grain to vegetable. Eating them takes a bit of getting used to. Young sprouts can be eaten whole and are very chewy, and sweet. No cooking needed. They are an excellent G.O.O.D. food for your survival pack. All you need is a glass mason jar and a mesh cap. Go to your local health food store and ask for the plastic ventilated tops that fit over mason jars for sprouting. If you want to decrease the weight, put them in a stocking or plastic paint strainer mesh (available at your hardware store) and then into a plastic wide mouth bottle. As you travel, the wheat will convert into chewy nutritious little snacks. In terms of travel, if you think that you will have access to water (hiking near a river or other other water source) but no cooking fuel (wintertime and it's wet) then this is an excellent option. They sprout while you hike. If a member of the party has dental problems, make a mortar and pestle from two rocks and crush the sprouts before eating them. Remember, we don't manufacture cellulose, the enzyme that other animals have to break down plant fiber. If you don't cook or juice your vegetable, you must chew (or crush) them to get anything out of them.
Here is a list of other seeds/grains/beans you can sprout as well as how to sprout in a jar.
If you have the time and inclination, you can go from the sprout stage to the grass stage. Again, this shifts the wheat from grain to vegetable. This will change the relative protein, carbohydrate and vitamin composition so I suggest you use your powers of observation. If you crave the sprouts at one growing stage versus another, honor it. It's your body telling you that given your current state of malnutrition, that stage of the sprout you are craving contains the maximum amount of what you need. Wheatgrass juice is a little sweet and many will get nauseous even if they drink only an ounce at a time. It is very potent stuff, but not dangerous.
Here is a link for sprouting to the grass stage including techniques to sprout without soil or trays (you can even use a baby blanket):
Be mindful that when going for the grass stage, hygiene is everything. You must start with clean grain or mold will grow on them.
Wheatgrass juice can be chewed but this is very labor intensive. Ann Wigmore who made wheatgrass juice famous ate grass from her lawn with her grandmother during the war in Germany and attributes it to her and her Grandmother not starving to death. I think that a wheatgrass juicer is a very sound investment, as important as any other in my survival kitchen. No, a regular juicer will not work. You will need a wheatgrass juicer. With it you can also juice other leafy greens if you like. Manual wheatgrass juicers are not overly expensive unless you want to go stainless steel but they all work pretty much the same way. [JWR Adds: Used wheatgrass juicers can sometimes be found on eBay for very reasonable prices.]
If you have wheat then you have bread and vegetables if you know how to juice. In the summer months, if you have grass growing nearby and it hasn't been sprayed with pesticides and other lawn chemicals you have a garden you may not have been aware of. While not all grasses are necessarily safe to eat, you can experiment with a drop at a time. As with all suspect plant life, first put a drop on your skin and see if it gets irritated over the next few hours. If that works, next put a drop under your tongue and spit it out. Was it bitter or soapy or was there a milky sap? (A survival botanist who wants to elucidate/correct this would be appreciated.) If not and if you feel okay after another few hours, next try to drink a drop. With some experimentation you may be able to determine if the grass varieties growing wild in your local meadow are safe for consumption.
While many other sprouts are also useful and certainly more tasty and easier to manage (mung, buckwheat, adzuki) wheat is something that anyone reading this blog is likely to have in abundance. You can, however, sprout any grain or bean too increase it's vitamin content. Also, sprouting does not mean you must eat it raw. You can sprout your beans and grains and then still cook with them. The chinese do this with mung beans in their cooking. You will lose some of the vitamin content by cooking them but you will still end up with a meal many times higher in vitamin content than otherwise. - SF in Hawaii
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Re: Fireless Cooking in an Crock Pot Adapted Ice Chest, by B.B. |Main| Wheat Sprouts and Wheatgrass as Survival Foods, by SF in Hawaii
Letter Re: Question About Humidity and Food Grade Plastic Food Storage Buckets
Hi,
If food for long term storage is put in a plastic five gallon bucket with silica gel and a mylar bag, how much does it matter how humid the outside air is after it is completely packed? For instance, if the only place to store the food is in a shed outside will humidity in the air get into the bucket? How important is dry storage air to the time the food can be successfully stored.
Thanks, - C.N. in North Carolina
JWR Replies: Food grade plastic food storage buckets are designed to be air and moisture tight when properly sealed. Once sealed, they should not gain any moisture over time. As previously noted, in damp climates, it is best to do your food storage packaging during a dry month of the year. Be sure to enclose several oxygen absorbing packet and a silica gel desiccant packet. Inspect each lid's rubber gasket for softness and for any foreign matter before seating the lids. Use a rubber or leather mallet to seat them firmly. BTW, you will probably find that you'll need a "lid lifter" tool for when you eventually open your buckets. (These are sometimes called "bucket opening wrenches" by some vendors.) They are available from Ready Made Resources, Mountain Brook Foods, Nitro-Pak, and a variety of other Internet food storage vendors.
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Letter Re: Fireless Cooking in an Crock Pot Adapted Ice Chest, by B.B.
Friday November 3 2006
How Long Until You Starve?, by Mr. Yankee
How long would you survive if you could never buy groceries again? Now consider how much worse that scenario would be if everyone you know was faced with the same question. It may have more relevance than you think. The food distribution system in industrialized nations has a complexity which baffles the mind.(start local-grown networks sca localharvest.org quikly!)
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Animal Identification System (NAIS) proposes to ID and track every single food animal in America. This program will make it illegal to keep unregistered livestock. This may not only prompt some people to avoid keeping stock (who needs more paperwork?) but also creates the real potential for government abuse. NAIS is already in the pilot test phase. It is currently bcompanies on a global scale. A neighbor of mine owns a seed company that has bought twenty five competitors in the past decade! It would take very few corporate buyouts or mergers to put control of the majority of the world food supply under one board of directors. If the majority of seeds in circulation for producing grain crops are hybrids (and I think they are). We have no choice but to pay whatever they ask for next year's seeds. If you let that sink in for a moment and you will realize a terrifying potential for the abuse of power.
What can you do?
As in preparing for any danger, emergency or shortage, you should provide for your basic needs in advance.
#1 Store a food and water reserve to see you through the initial crisis. If you are reading Survivalblog, chances are good that you already consider storage food as a basic preparation. Consider storing as much as you can up to the limit of food that you will consume before proper rotation prevents spoilage.#2 Open pollinated "heirloom" seeds and the ability to raise your own crops (at least "gardening") are part of the answer. Buy your seeds now, practice planting, harvesting, storing the food, and saving your own seeds to plant for the next season. It is worth noting that some varieties thrive in one climate or soil type, but fail miserably in other locations. It would be prudent to test the crops you hope to survive on. Ideally you could establish a large number of perennial crops such as Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, berry bushes, and fruit trees to harvest from in the future. Non-hybrid seeds are still available from many sources including The Ark Institute, Heirloomseeds.com, and The Seedsavers Exchange.
#3 Don't overlook unconventional sources of food. With a little research you should be able to recognize wild forage plants and prepare them for your table. Dandelions can be found almost anywhere including in urban areas from earliest spring through late fall. Their leaves can be eaten raw or boiled as vitamin laden greens. Even if you don't care for the taste of the greens, the nectar bearing yellow flower is a slightly sweet wild treat. Every part of the wild onion (a.k.a. "ramps" or "leeks") is edible (wild onions) but they may be hard to find in winter. One truly four season food is the cat-tail. It has edible shoots in spring, leaves and pollen in summer, and roots in autumn and winter (cat-tail). As an example of what a little knowledge can do to put food on your table, I recently saw "gobo" (a.k.a. burdock roots) for sale in large chain grocery store for $4 per pound.
#4 If keeping domestic livestock or poultry is an option----Here's a slick solution: "fireless" cooking.
Your crock-pot is the latest application of this old, old idea. But the old idea as you will see is better because your homemade fireless cooker won't require electricity.
The idea is simple: food in a pot is heated to boiling on your stove, then allowed to simmer for a few minutes; then the pot lid is clapped on and the pot is quickly transferred to a well insulated box. More insulation is stuffed around and on top of the pot, filling the entire box; then the lid is closed tightly. Now you can turn off the stove! After four hours or so (timing is not critical), the food is ready to eat. If the pot is not disturbed (peeking is not allowed!), the food will still be hot even after six or more hours.
Here's the payoff: (1) not much fuel is used and (2), the food can be prepared well before it is needed.
Y---JWR Replies: Whole kernel corn can be stored for up to 10 years and still have decent nutritive value. Once ground into corn meal, however, the practical shelf life declines to two years or less. High temperature is real shelf life killer with all stored foods, including corn. High temperatures can shorten potential shelf lives by one half, or even more. Do your best to store your food in the coolest part of your house. High humidity is another problem. It is best to do your packaging in the most dry months of the year for your particular climate. When storing bulk foods in five gallon food grade buckets, be sure to use oxygen absorbing packets as well as a small packet of silica gel. (The only exception would be popping corn which won't pop if it gets too dry.) Keep buckets sealed until you need to use the food. When you do break the seal, unless you have the need to use the entire contents within a few weeks time, then it is best to open the bucket and pour out just 1/3 to 1/2 of the contents for immediate use and then go through the full re-sealing process with the remainder. In answer to your question on bucket liners: I use 8 mil thickness bags, but 4 mil will suffice. (You need to handle them gently to avoid punctures, regardless of their thickness.) Since you will be sealing the bucket liner bag, the oxygen absorbing packets and silica gel. packets should be inside of that bag, on top of the grain. Mylar bags are available from a number of large Internet food storage vendors including Ready Made Resources and Nitro-Pak. You might also check Promised Land Products, Best Prices Storable Foods, and Lehman's. OBTW, I have found that a standard size liner will work with buckets of up to six gallon capacity.
Tuesday October 17 2006
Letter Re: TVP is a Poor Choice for Food Storage
Jim:
Many commercially packaged storage food "package deals" load up on Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP) for protein. I would eat TVP if I had to, but if you are considering buying food for storage, stick to eggs and meat. TVP comes from soybeans, and soybeans are not a good human food. To explain:
Plants can be placed on a continuum from harmless fruits, vegetables and common grains, to poisonous plants like deathcap mushrooms. With the exception of fruits (seeds pass through our digestion and we 'deposit' them in remote locations thus propagating the plant species) , plants don't want to be eaten. "Who cares what they want?" you say. "It's not like they can get up and run away." Exactly. Plants can't move or bite so they defend themselves with chemicals and thorns. Some chemicals they use will kill us (the wrong mushroom), some will kill us but in small doses can be medicines (foxglove). Some aren't strong enough to kill us but can make us sick, either acutely or chronically. Soybeans fall into this latter category.
Chemicals in soybeans cause thyroid disorders, blood clots, inhibit trypsin (one of our digestive enzymes), contain very high levels of phytates (mineral inhibitors) and contain high levels of estrogens. Have you noticed girls entering puberty earlier than in previous generations? Men given soy products can become feminized. Babies receiving soy infant formula as their sole source of food take the equivalent of 5 birth control pills a day in estrogens. These chemicals in soy are anti-nutrients. The Asians knew this which is why they only eat fermented soy like miso. Tofu is not fermented. The fermentation process inactivates many (but not all) of the anti-nutritive elements in soy. The only use for soy for humans IMHO is as Miso taken after radiation exposure. After the nuclear explosions in Japan, those who were fed miso survived better than those who were not. Miso will last a long time in a refrigerator and you should have some with your potassium iodate as part of your nuclear first aid kit. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: Soft white wheat has less nutritive value (protein) than hard red winter wheat. Although they are both categorized as "hard grains", the hard wheat varieties store better than the soft wheats. (30+ years versus 15 to 20 years for soft white wheat.) For both of these reasons, hard red winter wheat is preferred for home food storage programs. The following is a quote from the excellent wheat article at the Walton Feed web site: "The hard wheats generally contain smaller kernels and are harder than soft wheat kernels. They contain high protein and gluten levels primarily designed for making bread flours. Depending on variety and growing conditions, hard wheats can have vastly different protein levels. For bread making, your wheat should have a minimum of 12% protein. The hard varieties of wheat can have protein levels up to 15 or 16%. Generally speaking for bread making, the higher the protein content the better. The two main types of hard wheat are the hard red---Sunday October 8 2006
Baking Whole Wheat Bread With Your Storage Wheat, by B.B.
You should plan to be dependent on stored food until your second crop comes in. Wheat is the least expensive and longest-lasting and most nutritious of the basic foods and should be the backbone of your stored foods. Figure on a pound per person per day, thus about 700 pounds per adult-size person over the two-year storage plan. This is about a loaf of bread per day, which will nicely supplement the other stored foods in your larder.
You want "thrice-cleaned, Turkey-red Hard Winter Wheat", with moisture content at less than 10%. Store it in food-grade plastic buckets; treat it with dry ice as explained elsewhere in SurvivalBlog.
The simplest and most familiar way to eat wheat is by making bread. What follows is not a "survival" version of how to make bread, but unless you get your family used to eating whole wheat bread—and with this recipe, they will!—the wheat which ought to be the backbone of your food storage will not be much appreciated.
In a survival situation, you can prepare the bread dough described below, then eliminate the baking process in steps 5-7 by going right to the "Navajo bread" explanation at the end. And you won't need bread pans either. Also, check abebooks.com for copies of Dian Thomas "Roughing It Easy" for ideas on survival cooking.
Homemade whole-wheat bread is often hard and chewy—sometimes better as a doorstop than as something to eat! Store-bought whole-wheat bread has a much better texture because commercial bakers use a secret ingredient. You can use the same ingredient and make bread that that will be far superior to store-bought and that your family will rave about. And you can make it from scratch to cooling rack in about 60 minutes! Trust me on this. Take note of the time for each step below and you will see what I mean.
Over the last several years, I have baked numberless loaves (100+) using this recipe. I often give one loaf of every 4-loaf batch away because I like the reactions I get. Early in my bread-baking career, one recipient told me she ate half a loaf at one sitting! I was pleased, but not surprised. My kids have done the same. Also try the variations you'll read later in this paper; you'll find people standing at your side waiting impatiently for the next bite.
Basic Whole-Wheat Bread (makes 4 loaves)
Of course it's best to use freshly ground whole wheat, but you can start out your adventure in bread-making with whole wheat flour bought at the store. Yeast from Costco comes in good-size "bricks"—see the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course for details.
4 1/2 cups very warm water
1 cup honey
1/4 cup yeast
1/2 cup oil (Canola is best)
6 cups whole wheat flour (more flour will be added later; see below)
Slightly mounded 3/4 cup of gluten flour (the "secret ingredient": available in the baking/nutrition/organic section of larger groceries or from a nutrition store). Warning: you want gluten flour, not "high protein" flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 to 5 1/2 cups whole wheat flour (store-bought whole wheat flour may take less because it will be more "packed"—fresh made flour is more "fluffy"
4 greased or oiled bread pans. I use my fingers to spread the grease, or a paper towel to spread the oil, into every corner. Do this well to unsure the loaves will release from the pans. I've also used "Pam" with good results.
1. Combine the water, honey and yeast; let this mixture "work" at least 5 minutes. I have a kneading machine, so I use its bowl for this. No kneading machine? Use a large mixing bowl.
2. Then add the oil, the 6 cups of whole wheat flour, the gluten flour and the salt. Beat in your kneading machine (or electric mixer, or by sturdy wooden spoon) for 7 minutes. This will result in a pancake-like batter.
3. Continue to beat, adding 4 1/2 cups of the 5 1/2 cups of flour; checking for stickiness and adding only enough to cause the dough to clear the bowl—meaning the dough will pick up dough off the sides of the bowl (the batch will feel slightly sticky when touched).
4. Either knead with your machine or turn out onto an oiled board or counter (a tablespoon of oil spread around with your hand. Machine-knead or hand-knead for at least 10 minutes. I rub my hands with oil to keep the dough from sticking too much. For hand kneading, you can also add a little flour (just a little—you don't want tough bread!--if needed to prevent too much stickiness. At the end of ten minutes, the batch should be elastic—you'll know what that means after your first bread-making experience. It will feel "alive".
At this point, you can continue with steps 5-7 or go right to the "Navajo bread" section below.
5. Mold* into four loaves and put in the four pans. Let rise in the oven with the oven temperature at 100o (just warm), for 15 to 20 minutes (but no longer or else you'll get air pockets in the bread).
6. Turn the oven up to 350o and bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. There's no need to remove the pans and wait for the oven to reach 350—just turn the knob to 350. To test for doneness, turn out one loaf and tap on the bottom: a hollow sound tells you it's done. To turn out a loaf, use oven mittens to hold the pan inverted and to catch the loaf. If the loaf bottom is still a bit "squishy", return it to the pan and continue baking. Keep the oven door closed during this test or you'll lose too much heat. Don't over bake; the loaves will be browner than they look in the dark oven.
7. Turn out on wire racks to cool; rub a stick of margarine or butter over the tops to keep the crust from getting too hard.
* to mold: shape the batch into a round ball and cut into quarters with a long knife. Shape each of these into a ball. Then with the heel of your hands press on the sides of a ball to shape it into length to fit your bread pans. Press into the pan and then press it down so it fills the pan end-to-end and side-to-side. There's no need to do this perfectly.
Stand back and feel proud; try to wait a little before you cut yourself the first slice. You deserve it! And you are going to love the toast this bread makes!
Navajo bread
Flatten a fist-size ball of dough pancake thin to 1/2 skillet size; fry on both sides in hot oil. Use this as a base for a tostada.
Or, flatten loaf-size ball of dough pancake thin and cut into small pieces the size of the palm of your hand and fry both sides in hot oil; serve with butter and honey. Yum!
P.S. Gluten flour can be stored for as long as ground flour if you use the same techniques for storage.
In order to rotate your food storage stock efficiently, it is essential to accurately predict shelf life. This information is often skirted by vendors, but I found a very handy chart supplied by Walton Feed that really lays this out - you might be surprised at some of the results.
There are a lot of environmental factors that effect storage life, but probably the most predominant is that of temperature. Lowering the average storage temperature by as little as 10 degrees Fahrenheit has a dramatic effect on storage life. That said, for those of you that like the convenience of MREs and plan on purchasing several cases, consider storing them under refrigerated conditions. A 20 degree drop from 80 degrees Fahrenheit to 60 degrees Fahrenheit changes the storage life of MREs from 76 months to 130 months! For every 10 degree drop in temperature, the storage life of seeds is doubled. Not just garden seeds, but many folks store seeds to eat as sprouts. So, here is the deal - if you are going to buy several cases of MREs, you may as well shell out that extra $20-$40 dollars to pick up a used refrigerator a
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course. Note, however, that if you buy corn from any source except Walton's or another major storage food vendor, be careful about the moisture content, which varies widely. Also, speaking of moisture, beware that mold is the greatest bugaboo with bulk corn. Never, ever, eat moldy corn! It can induce micotoxin poisoning that is potentially deadly!
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navy beans and is getting ready to do some hamburger noodle soup. She told me that she had no idea how easy it is to use a pressure cooker to preserve food.
In my opinion this is the way to learn, find someone to show you how! Kathy and Jeff had many questions and we answered them through the course of the two evenings. Like handling a gun you have to respect your equipment when you are home canning. However with the proper instruction you can have a safe and enjoyable time as you are putting away stores for the future.
One last thing, look for canning jars at home auctions. You can reuse the j
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lots of jerky over the years, but have never tried canning meats. Canning meat makes sense for a fixed location retreat. But for "Get out of Dodge" use, jerky is preferable. (Less weight and bulk, and no risk of breaking containers.) Detailed "do it yourself" instructions (including jerky making, pemmican making, and canning options) can be found in the book "The Encyclopedia of Country Living" by Carla Emery. Get a Ninth Edition copy. If you can't find this book locally, I do sell copies via mail order. (See my
Friday August 18 2006
Three Letters Re: Clarification on Calcium Hypochlorite for Water Purification
Jim,
It has been almost 20 years since I had a chemistry class, so you may want to check this with a chemist. Wanderer posted the following comment:
"I stopped at the local Big Box lumber yard and they had Calcium Hypochlorite, (a.k.a. Pool Shock) it was concerning as it states 50% Calcium Hypochlorite and 50% Other Ingredients. Making it a 50% available Chlorine.
In common language, … is this adequate? It does not seem to be of the 70% goal you mentioned on your earlier post."
He was referring to the EPA web site comment:
"… since the calcium hypochlorite has an available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight."
The Wanderer's comment about his purchase making 50% available chlorine is not quite right. Calcium hypochlorite, Ca(ClO)2 will 'release' chlorine and oxygen ions when mixed with water. The EPA comment actually means that pure calcium hypochlorite can release enough chlorine ions equal to 70% of the weight of the amount of the compound used. For instance, if 1 ounce of pure calcium hypochlorite is mixed with water, 0.7 ounces of chlorine ions will be released. If the mixture that Wanderer bought is 50% inert, then using one ounce will only release 0.35 ounces of chlorine ions. Also, I am not sure of the density of calcium hypochlorite, but any measurement like this should be sure to differentiate between mass and weight. If the density is close to one, then using a volume measure for 'ounce' is probably good enough. If not, then the amount used should probably be measured on reasonably accurate scale (and not a balance). Please check my work if you can.
Thanks, - M.W.
Sir,
I have found granular calcium hypochlorite at our local Kinetico (water softener) store. They sell a package of two 8 oz bottles distributed by a company called Better Water Ind., Inc. 209 North Tyler Street, Tyler, MN 56178, phone: 507-247-5929. [At their site] click on their "products" link and scroll down to "BWI Certified Chlorine." I notice that they have [packaging ] available from 3.5 pound jars up to 100 pound drums! The product is sold as a well sanitizer pack called "Well Safe" and comes with one 8 oz bottle of granulated chlorine (73% calcium hypochlorite) and one 8 oz bottle of chlorine pellets that are 73% calcium hypochlorinate.- Opus
Good Evening:
I also went to my pool supply store to obtain calcium hypochlorite. They had Poolife brand "TurboShock." It was $14.85 for 5 pounds. Active ingredient:calcium hypochlorite 78% and other ingredients 22%. No one was aware of the substance of the other ingredient. I called the National Poison Control Hotline to find out. They also stated the ingredient was not known but, was a [inert] filler of sorts and not harmful.
I'm satisfied. I could decontaminate my well and everything else [for a long time] with 20 pounds of Turboshock. - Lauralei
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Sunday August 13 2006
Letter Re: Long Term Storage Survival Food Buckets at Costco
Jim:
I just came from a Costco in Coeur d'Alene Idaho. I spotted an interesting item on the end cap near the bread isle, 275 servings of individual food packs in a white plastic bucket. 20 year shelf life. Just boil in water for 20 minute. It has the same packaging that you'd expect from a vendor like Ready Made Resources. This from a food packaging company out of Orem, Utah. The price for 275 servings is $109.99. It is labeled 'Survival Food', item #104893 so you may want to inquire at your Costco.
In each bucket there are 55 individual 5 serving packs--sort of misleading when on the bucket it says 275 servings but each pack is for one day. Here are the specifications and ingredients:
premixed, seasoned
vitamin, mineral fortified
100% vegetarian--(except whey milk and pancakes)soy used in lieu of meat
Barley Vegetable
Blueberry pancakes
Ala King
Cacciatore
Country Noodle
Corn Chowder
PotatoBa-Kon
Rice Lentil
Western Stew
Whey Milk
The weight of the bucket is 25 lb., 2 oz. It looks really well put together. - Jason in Idaho
JWR Replies: The quality of the product is not in question, but Costco's marketing is. A bit of Internet research revealed that this product is currently the target of a class action lawsuit. (Scroll down to Page 5 of the suit papers for details.) The product is advertised as a "3 month food supply for one person." The problem is that if you do the math, it works out to just 455 calories per day! With 2,000 calories as a scant daily minimum per the USDA, they are overstating the period of supply period by a factor of nearly five times. (The LDS Church's informative website www.providentliving.org contains a suggested food list that provides 2,800 calories per day.) I'm not saying that it is a bad product. Just figure that you will need five times as much as Costco advertises. OBTW, because of this lawsuit, I wouldn't be surprised if the product is dropped by Costco. In case it is, here is the contact info for the food packing company: Food for Health International
www.nutristorage.com Phone: 801-765-4663 (In Utah, naturlich, where the majority of the long term storage food canners in the country are located.) Perhaps folks might want to stock up.
----" All animals in the arctic regions are edible, but the livers of seals and polar bears must not be eaten because of the high levels of vitamin A. Death could result from ingesting the liver."
So, I'll go with Vitamin A as the guilty culprit. Of course, I don't understand why people eat any kind of liver....so it's purely an intellectual question to me.
K---Tuesday August 1 2006
Preparedness Course Errata: Vitamin B Versus Vitamin D
My apologies for not catching an error in the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course. On page 14, there were references to Vitamin B being fat soluble. Either I mis-spoke, or the transcriber misheard me. Either way, my apologies! To clarify: Vitamin B and Vitamin C are water soluble, so they cannot be over-dosed. The human body just sheds what is not needed, through urination. In contrast, Vitamins A,D, E, and K are fat soluble. The greatest risk of overdosing is with Vitamin D-3. Vitamin D over-dosing happens most often with over-anxious young mothers that mistakenly assume that if one daily dose of liquid vitamins for their toddler is good, then three or four doses is even better. Another risk is to bear hunters: Bear livers have such concentrated Vitamin D, that eating an entire bear liver can be lethal! Never eat more that a 1/2-inch cube of bear liver per week.
For those of you that already own a copy of the course, please pen in the correction. The error will be corrected in future printings.
Thursday July 27 2006
Letter Re: The Importance of Storing Salt for Preparedness
Hello,
I noticed folks talking a bit about salt lately...what I didn't notice is whether or not anyone has talked about mineral needs? If folks are going to buy a bunch of salt, they might want to remember that iodized salt would be a good idea. Iodine is one of those necessary minerals, that has become deficient in our soils across the nation. Normally, we could get it through the plants we eat. However, if it's deficient in the soil were you live, you won't get enough. Yes, you can also get it from seafood. However, if your retreat is inland, you don't really have that option. A University of Michigan web page discusses some issues related to iodine deficiency. But there are other mineral needs, aside from iodine, that people should research as well. Folks need to be aware of what their bodies need, what is deficient in their area, and what they might need to supplement. On the flip side, folks should also be aware that some minerals can become toxic in ones body if you overdo it.
Here's a couple of links for anyone who might be interested in mineral deficiency. Of course, there's a ton of more information out there...but this might get anyone interested, off and running:
From Health Line
From "Wrong Diagnosis"
Colgate Licks Hot Springs, Idaho [JWR Adds: Been there, seen that. It is an amazing place for wildlife viewing. BTW, the nearby Jerry Johnson Hot Springs are worth the hike for a dip.]
Death Valley, California
Searles Lake, California
Kaibab, Arizona
JWR Replies: Unless you literally live next to a salt marsh, I cannot overemphasize the importance of storing salt. The Memsahib and I formerly lived in the Upper Clearwater River Valley of Idaho. In that region, deer and elk would walk many, many miles to get to natural salk licks (such as The Colgate Licks), where they would congregate in large numbers. Salt is important to store, both for preserving food and as a practical means to attract wild game. (It is noteworthy that in many locales, natural salt licks are off-limits to hunters, since hunting there is too easy and hence not considered sporting. That ought to tell you something.) I recommend that you store several times more salt than you think that you'll ever need. Salt is cheap and plentiful now, but in the event of TEOTWAWKI it will be a scarce and valuable commodity. Salt also has a virtually unlimited shelf life.
Excellent information on storing dry goods for long-term. I have just a bit of advice to all out there: use foods from you stores in your every-day life. I'm not advocating depleting your stores; rather consuming and replacing them as part of your daily life, thus rotating your stock as well. (This is recommended, however, ONLY after you have acquired your long-term goal (i.e.one year supply, two, etc.). You will benefit in at least four distinct ways from this:1.) your stores will always have a maximum useful shelf-life, as they will constantly be rotated; 2.) you will probably experience better health as you will be eating better quality, more healthful food (look at labels: there's no food in most food!); 3.) you will almost certainly save money on your weekly food budget (fresh-baked baguettes from home ground flour costs me about $.35 /loaf, and it's as good or better than anything available at ten times the cost!); 4.) lastly, but certainly not least, preparing and eating food from you stores will become part of your lifestyle. It will not require a transition to eating "that stuff" and you will have dealt with the learning curve now, while you can afford to, instead of wasting you (future) limited food supplies. Also, not to be overlooked, this f----Monday July 10 2006
Do It Yourself Bulk Food Storage: Buckets, Oxygen Absorbers, Desiccants, and CO2
From what I've heard letters and e-mails, most SurvivalBlog readers already have a food storage program, but most of them would like to move on to the next step: buying and storing foods in bulk. To save money you will probably want to buy rice, wheat, and beans in 50 pound sacks. Sacks are problematic, since what you really want is a vermin-proof, moisture proof container that is air tight and preferably evacuated of oxygen. Those are the keys to true long term shelf life, and none of them are provided by a cloth, paper, or woven plastic sack. The solution is to re-pack bulk foods in food grade plastic buckets. Here is how to do it:
Food grade five or six gallon bucket with rubber "o-ring" seals are available through a variety of Internet vendors. Be sure to specify "food grade" when you buy. Other buckets intended for products like paint are not safe for use in food storage, even if bought brand new. Although these usually have the same white plastic formulation, they are typically manufactured using a different mold release agent, which is toxic. So don't buy paint buckets!
Used food grade buckets are often available for free or perhaps a dollar apiece if you ask around at local delicatessens and bakeries. Flour buckets are usually best, since buckets that were used for pickles or peppers might leave you with food that has undesired flavors!
The method that I use is as follows: Line a bucket with a large plastic bag and pour in the wheat, rice, or beans, shaking the bucket and tapping it on the floor several times to get the bag completely full. You don't want any air gaps. Fill the bag so that the bucket is filled to within one inch of the top. Then toss two Oxygen absorbing packets (available from NitroPak) into the bag. Next, place a small chunk of dry ice on top of the grain, inside the liner bag. I usually use a piece that is about as big as my thumb. As the dry ice "melts" (sublimates) it will fill the bucket with CO2, displacing the oxygen. (Insects can't breathe CO2!) Keep a watchful eye on the dry ice. Once it has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel and not any thicker than 1/8th inch, seal the bag with a wire twist tie. On top of the sealed bag, place a 2 ounce bag of silica gel desiccant. (Also available from from NitroPak.) Then immediately seal the bucket, securing the lid with firm strikes from a rubber mallet. This will seat the lid and compress the o-ring. WARNING: If you don't wait until the dry ice has nearly completely sublimated before you seal the bucket, then dangerous pressure could develop. (A "dry ice bomb.") Again, you must wait until the dry ice chunk has sublimated to the diameter of a nickel, and not any thicker than 1/8th inch. The end result: Very dry food in a sealed, oxygen-free environment, safe from mice. This method will triple or quadruple the shelf like of rice and beans, and make whole grain wheat last literally for decades.
Another method that can be used in place of dry ice is a CO2 probe or "wand", attached with a hose to a compressed cylinder of CO2 . A complete description of dry ice and CO2 probe methods can be found in Alan T. Hagan's excellent Food Storage FAQ at Captain Dave's site.
Once you open each bucket of storage food, you will probably want to replace the standard "pound on" lid with a screw closure "Gamma Seal" lid. These lids have an inset screw top, so that they are more convenient to access for daily use. Gamma Seal lids are available through a number of Internet vendors such as Walton Feed and NitroPak, for around six dollars each. If you want to buy 20 or more lids, you can get them directly from the manufacturer, at www.gammaseals.com.
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Friday June 23 2006
Letter Re: An American Source for Canned Bread
JWR Replies: As you'd expect, my preference is for well-prepared families to grind their own whole wheat flour (from their stored hard red winter wheat) and bake their own bread. Together with the other store bought ingredients, this is a source of nutritious whole wheat bread with a net cost of around 1 to 2 cents per ounce. For comparison, consider that typical store bought bread is 9 to 18 cents per ounce. Canned bread is 29+ cents per ounce, not counting postage, if you buy it via mail order. But of course fresh bread lasts two or three days, whereas canned bread stores for two or three years. So canned bread does have its place in preparedness planning.
Friday April 21 2006
Letter Re: Stocking Up on Reusable Plastic Plates and Bowls
Jim,
Something just occurred to me as far as an overlooked essential: food plates and bowls. The glass mixes (Corelle, etc) are far better than the stoneware for cleanliness and durability, but they can still be broken. I found out recently that the cheap, media tie-in dishes that extol Disney and various other children's movies are not only unbreakable plastic, but are immune to gun cleaning solvent--I used an old one, figuring to throw it away when done. But a quick rinse with a dab of soap and it was clean--impervious to the chemical, not even the cartoon image was blistered. I then tried acetone, gasoline and an acidic household cleaner. These things are brutally tough.
W----Sunday March 19 2006
From David In Israel: How Freeze Drying Works
James:
I am sure the readers are interested in the way that industrial produced freeze dried foods are made. I was a kashrut masgiach (kosher supervisor) at a major freeze dry producer in the United States before I emigrated to Israel. Mashgichim are flown all over the world to places where there is no Jewish community to certify the kosherness of foods for consumption by Jews. (The laws of kashrut are much too complex to describe here). The plant I certified had two major types of chamber one that was bus-sized and another that was the size of a minivan. Trays were fed in by an electrical railroad placed on the floor, hundreds if not thousands of pounds were freeze dried at a time. The chambers start out at below freezing when the vacuum is applied and as the time passes (the program depends on the food) the temperature is raised to (again depending on the food and its temperature tolerance) up to around 150 Fahrenheit. Freeze drying is simply quickly subliming away all of the water, the same thing that happens in freezer burn. Vacuum goes a long way to assist the subliming
process, at a vacuum of 20 mmHg, water will boil at 15C stay below the boiling temp until almost all of the moisture is gone. Freeze drying keeps the food both feeling and tasting much fresher by maintaining the basic cellular structure of the food just desiccating. A standard food dehydrator which I have used at home radically changes both the mouth feel and flavor not to mention making for high re hydration times, there is also the question of how much nutrient is lost long term due to oxygen exposure. Vacuum pumps are available used for reasonable prices a coop might be able to purchase or build and run a small chamber. If anyone is feeling creative and builds their own freeze dry chamber, please write in with your results.
Tuesday March 14 2006
Letter Re: Home Dehydrating and Home Vacuum Packing
Sir:
As a "very long time" survivalist, I read everything I can get. I also enjoy your website as it is the most informative one out there! Now for my problem: I was diagnosed with what is called Celiac Sprue. This is a horrible allergy to anything that contains Gluten, such as wheat, barley, and rye. What this means is that if I were to eat anything that contained Gluten I will come down with extremely bad cramps, diarrhea, nausea, and fever. Basically, It feels like I have the flu but ten times worse. As you can see this makes buying large bulk items for long term storage difficult and costly. My question to all is this: Can I get a dehydrator and an automatic sealer and vacuum to make my own MREs? I am talking about things like Thai noodles (various flavors, all Gluten free), hydrate and cook them and then turn around and use a dehydrator to make them dehydrated, or, just seal them in a pouch minus the air and use them as long term pre-packaged/MRE type food? Does anybody have any experience in doing just this? Thanks, - Thunderchief
JWR Replies: Home dehydrators are very useful! Over the years, we have used ours for everything from drying venison jerky and apples, to "reanimating" silica gel rust preventative packets. Dehydrators easy to find used for reasonable prices, via a newspaper "want" ad, or a localized web service like Craig's List. Dehydrators are a bit bulky to buy via mail order, so try to find a local source first.) If purchased new, they can be quite expensive. The one that we use at the Rawles Ranch is an Excalibur brand, with a variable temperature control. They are very sturdy and typically have lots of trays, so they can hold a lot. Ours is circa 1980, and still going strong, w
---
Sunday March 12 2006
Letter Re: Seeking Advice on 27 Year Old Storage Food
Jim,
I apologize if you've already covered this in previous archives - I searched several, but not all, of your blog archives. I did see your comment, "Wheat stores for 20+ years..." I have a LOT of wheat purchased in 1979 after reading Howard Ruff's "How to Prosper During the Coming Bad Years." I have other items - Navy and other types of beans. It is by Neo-Life, "NEST" storage, "Nitro-Guard" protection - it was stored in #10 cans purged with with nitrogen. So it is all 25+ years old. I have been storing this stuff in my basement, which is cool and mostly dry, on 2x4's up off the floor. I keep the humidity below 40% with a de-humidifier. My question is, have these items lost enough of their nutrition value to where it would be a waste of time t
---
JWR Replies: Some items like salt will store for centuries as long as they are not contaminated by the rust or decay of their containers. If stored dry, hard red winter wheat still retains 98% of it nutritive value after 20 years. Ditto for sugar or honey. Most dehydrated foods, (such as rice, beans, TVP, and the ubiquitous Neo-Life Stroganoff) will have lost too much nutritive value to be useful after 27 years, even if they were nitrogen packed. They might still be palatable, but unless you are dieting, what is the use of eating them if they have lost 90% of their nutritive value? My advice: If in doubt, throw it out. Ideally, you should continuously rotate your storage food to avoid such waste. If nothing else, mark the cans/cases of your subsequent batches of storage food, so that you can religiously use the oldest lots first.
One tidbit of trivia for you: Some wheat that was found in an Egyptian pharaoh's tomb. A small fraction of it still sprouted after 2,600 years. If you have any canned gardening seeds, try them out. The sprouting yields will be low, but there could be some marginal utility there. Just don't expend too much effort tilling and tending those those rows in your garden! BTW, the same logic applies to canned sprouting seeds.
----Saturday March 11 2006
Letter Re: Question on Dried Foods Versus Dehydrated Storage Foods
Jim,
Is there any difference between dried food and dehydrated food, and if there is, what is the difference? - G.P.
JWR Replies: I'm glad that you asked that, because it is often a point of confusion. Although semantically they mean the same thing, the difference is that "dehydrated" storage foods typically are dried to a greater extent than typical dried foods--such as the raisins and other dried fruits that are sold at your local grocery store. However, due to their lower moisture content and because they are usually sold in sealed, nitrogen-packed, cans makes them store for several years instead of just a few months. Also, don't forget that "dehydrated" is far different than freeze drying, which can result in even longer storage life, particularly if canned.
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Monday March 6 2006
Letter from Michael Z. Williamson Re: Body Armor, Ancient MREs, and Federally Exempt Handguns
Tuesday January 31 2006
Letter Re: Storing Retort Packaged Ultra High Temperature Pasteurized Milk
Howdy Jim,
For those with sufficient storage space, an item worth considering is the UHT (Ultra High Temperature) pasteurized milk products.
In one-quart containers at around $1.40, they are available in whole milk and the 2% variety. The manufacturers give a shelf life of 6 to 10 months and the product requires no refrigeration until opened.
UHT dairy products have been on the shelves in Europe for more than 20 years. They were previously unavailable to the U.S. consumer because the government felt their availability would "disrupt the milk support program." Sure beats powdered milk! - Dutch in Wyoming
JWR Replies: For a short term supply (up to six months), UHT Retort -packaged milk makes a lot of sense. For longer term, you should store nitrogen-packed canned powdered nonfat milk from a competent and reliable vendor such as Ready Made Resources or Walton Feed. I have found that the nonfat variety stores the best because it is the butterfat in whole milk that goes rancid, significantly shortening the shelf life. (BTW, the powdered milk sold at grocery stores that comes in foil-lined boxes goes rancid far too quickly--at times it is borderline rancid even when bought in a brand new package!) The Memsahib has been drinking retort packaged rice milk for about five years now. Rice and soy "milks" store even longer than cow milk. Like any other storage food, be sure to store retort package "bricks" in the coolest (but not ever below freezing) part of your house, and away from vermin. (It is amazing what rats will chew on.) Never stack individual retort bricks horizontally more than five bricks high, or vertically more than seven bricks high, or in cardboard cases (of vertical bricks) more than five cases high.
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28FOODA TXT 260,099 01-01-94 12:27a 28fooda.txt
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28FOODC TXT 295,743 01-01-94 12:40a 28foodc.txt
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28FOODF TXT 153,789 01-01-94 12:44a 28foodf.txt
8-06axx4.txt - - - - v8-7-06 4pm dew-collecton\dehumidifiers, z's
july 25,26th 2006 downloads. +see dew5-06 study. keep dhu7-06.txt as is.
-make a dew collector using many collected principles. z1 get drip'n
this file is entirely marked z1 to z372 for any use.
this dhu8-06.txt is open to changes.
this is file-one of a two-file guide. split for small computers.
any part can be pasted into internet search google.com and found again.
or dhu7-06 study can recovered by search-words: dehumidifier principle, + vortex, water survival condense, +? dew collect project air build, dewpond project,
every war in the near future (after this one, obviously) will be over drinkable water,instead of being over oil. -Pericles, Mar 29 2003
its the political oil of the future.
jumps: jump to: links, 2content, 4main, 5verse
read more than words. use it.
- more detailed list of all z's: z3
z3 nfo-list of z's (you are reading it)
z4 word-bank
z15-35: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics, best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel ( 3brief htms are replaced with z's in dhu8, see dhu7 )
z36: 4main: clay vortex-tube htms -short
z58: 4main: h2o2 + icemak htm. -short z59: ?
! z69-114:
z69: search-words, z70: intro + primary components + def, z71:principle, z72 how it works + uses, adsorption roter components principle, z75 marine dhu-dryers, z77 dst silicagel type, z78 parts, -79 dust washable bacteria, z80 varieties of basic process:consorb recusrob + dr, frigo- econo- aqua-,
z85 construction, -87 wiki definition answer.com, z88 how it? works, z90 how desiccant types work, z92 the four parts, z93- other types, effectiveness, purity, z96 links, z97 watermaker product, z98 get more of dst? gallery principle.htm, z99 -repairclinic.com not to good, links!?, z100 sciperio.com, z101 ! wiki, awg process, z108 alternate methods not awg, z111 dehu device links, z114 most helpful? pics
z115-?
z127: cpd short-courses in water-science.
! z134-313:
z134: z134 words: water survival condense, dew collect project air build
z135 brief: but sharp -HikingwithMike, Box 68 Wilderness Survival Tips, gear!
z136: a still, only 4near water, z137 ! first concerns, z138 snow shelters 2, z139: fresh-water hand-pump chat, product links, z143 ro, better from air, z144-46 vaccum vortex-separation?, z149 survival in a cave, gear, z150 cold from the ground, heat watch, z155 time-table, z156 footswell, z159 finding survival water !, z160 sick, z161 boiled, z162 stagnate, z163 muddy, z166 hot stones method, z167 purity, z168 boil aerating, z169 boil!, z171 iodine steps, z176 other chemicals, z177 poisoned water holes, hard, sweet, z181 disease, dysntary, typhoid, douves, z185 skin, leeches, z187 where to find water, geo-signs, desserts, z193 plants, z194 bad wells?, z195 dessert survival: walking, marking, covering, z199 cool below surface !, z201 dessert walking tips, z202 thirst do\donts, z203 slugish, z204 ! dew: surfaces, old radiators, z208 bedouin animal signs, geo signs, holes near water, z215 bushman:suction pipe, grass filter, egg-stor, z216 poison tastes, z217 geo-sins:rocky hills, lava, soft soils, signs, foot of mountains, z223: other sources: plants, nights, bugs, birds, ants, z226-8 she-oaks, z229: other signs of water: birds, flys, pigeons, grain eaters, unclean birds, mammals, frogs, reptiles, z237-46: plant sources, rags, sea-coast geo know, z249: fish flesh, z250: from salt-water, z252 in arid areas: dawn, plastic sealed hole with damp waste objects crushed added, z260 water from a lantern, wool, rain-water, snow, ice + how2, z274 salt-water to fresh by ice, how2, z277 finding it on the ocean: river outlets, rain, fish, z281: ! the other side of getting water is 'preserving' it: body water, stay covered, avoid evaporate, z288 utmost shade ! 30'f dif, MISCELLANEOUS TIPS: z291: old hand-pump how2, z292: at sea: save, sweat, dampen, sleep, donts, suck, z293: finding water: maps, geo terrain, -trees, mountains, tree types, z297 dig dosnt pay if desperate, z298 bird signs, daily needs, boil, thirsty:drink small+often, z303 survival time-table, searching may be worse than waiting for help.
z305 obtaining water, natural, unatural sources: disinfect, still how2,
z310 teacher\student explanation !,how2still links, word definition,
z314 Couran Cove luxery and nrg indepenece ideas mix, worms, water,
z317-327:
z317 comonchaka, chili: fog-fences, gov, topo, z320 light !, patons de-sal method, z326 idea,
z328-348:
z328 solaroof concept, overheat, process, soap solution, circulating, z335 hot-sky, z336 more thermass has no payback!, z337 floodeded rock bed, z338 biomimicry, z339 swg contradictions, z340 solarooof tech nfo: bubble description, gallery, how liquid thermomass system (lts) bubs work, z342 scienceproject.com selected, z344 list of subpump stuff, z345 groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof bubl-tec generators shading cooling, dynamic control,
z349-50 eco sphere project, bio dome, z351 links to projects using sola dome, z352 amish, z353-354 dewpond + airwell?, z355- sciperio cancer studies,
! z357-371:
z357 sciperio.com + desal method, z358 liquid disciccants, z359 advanced ro, z360 advantages over solid disciccants, z361 hydroscopic salts, z362 ! primary elements stages of, z363 key advantages, z364 genetic changes to make agriculture plants salt tolerant, z366 water:crisis, recovery %, z367 solar waterhouse = 100%, z368 surface ro 2stage, z369 the clark pump !, z370 advanced ro membranes?, z371 overview of desal efforts, z372 not dew related but good reason too: gulags in america, oraclesofgod.org, africa xanga.com, anti-un dvds, end of dhu7-06.txt\4main
-end
mass-destruction: ww1 + ww2 = world war 3 , is was is.
- - my word-bank: z4 projects Definitions concept system
humidity dehumidify condense collect refridgerant desiccant, dessicant ,Atmospheric water generator 1! (awg) vs. bubble-tech sola-roof, WaterMaker (WM), Air to Water Harvest (A2WH) or Water Air Extraction Device (WAED),airwells 1! dewponds, survival water camping emergency, radiator of vehicles, cool and hot sources, air-flow -convection?, coalesce, catagories:Guide to Wilderness Survival 1!, evaporation still, Giardia- lamblia Non-industrial water filtration watermaker dehumidifier mineral water distilled water, World Day for Water, safe water,dehydration, water quality, drought. Key Words: capillary water condensation conduction convection desalinization evaporation radiation solar-still thermal energy, repulsine repulsator vortex implosion suck siphon capillary heat-exchanger 1! Bubble-Tech sola-roof liquid-cooling, Q+A, thermal-gain living-structures-architecture, Oil From Algae, NoNameYet, Liquid Thermal Mass System, 1! liquid-desiccant and advanced-energy-recovery-RO ,The free energy of hydration: Hygroscopic salts like LiCl, make excellent liquid desiccants. -HVAC. advanced reverse osmosis (RO),The Clark Pump, desalinate, refrigeration. -methane-powered?, H202-production -see 1-14.htm z55 synonyms, z93:humidifier, z250:A coolamon, dehydrate
the five 1! in the above word-bank spot 5 major areas of dew-collection.
Biosystems and Biomimicry technology will run cool - while all our previous engineering concepts are dominated by high temperature and pressure. That is machine technology - fire, steam, the heat of a nucear reation - none of those concepts have a place in a biomimicry technology. Living systems operate at ambient temperature and humidity.
-sola roof
-
- - 4main - - best text, my notes , 1! 2! 3! marks, in verses z1 z2 etc.
z36 zip-lists of clay-tube goo1-4 spin-mud, words:ceramics extruder xanga + ? exair.com faq4 Ranque Vortex Tube, Hilsch Tube, Hilsch, Maxwell's Demon
Viktor Schauberger's Inventions, get germano links list of goo and htm of potters to make vortex-tubes for you.
z37 words: hydrogen-peroxide production home
buy here,catalyst to decompose hydrogen peroxide to hot steam and oxygen.
-h2o2.com properties:physical,chemical + where
my notes: by justin_lin@caryacademy.pvt.k12.nc.us z40
Melting Point: -20C / 28.4'F,Boiling Point: 158'C /316.4'F, Colorless liquid and slightly pungent and irritating odor. heat decomposes it to water and oxygen (2H2O2) ==> 2H2O + O2.or in contact with salts(crystals?)2! as iron, copper, manganese, nickel, or chromium. high concentrations contactig these metals or? can be explosive(oxydation). so de-oxy reactions are 'implosive' and give life? contact with organic compounds will form certain hydro\peroxides which start polymerization reactions 1! (plastics!).oxidizes stuff in most reactions(see link-4). -spider-webs?
- can be found in our tissues or in our cells as a product of cellular metabolism(7. It can also be found in our saliva, which causes the foaming in our mouths when in contact with toothpaste
- obtained in mass quantities by the eletrolysis of aqueous solutions of sulfuric acids, of potassium bisulfate, or of ammonium bisulfate(6. z41
- or by I.G. Farbenindustrie method, using the raw hydrogen and oxygen. 2-ethylanthraquinol and oxidized it into 2-ethylanthraquinone though a solution of quinol in an organic solvent. The h2o2 is extracted and the quinone is put back into the process by hydrogen to continue h2o2 production. - end
-A. ROS BARCEL April 8, 1998 http://www.oxfordjournals.org/ z42
Physiology H2O2 by the lignifying xylem of several vascular plants Botany
paused -here- to go to dehumidifier related nfo study.
z43 Hydrogen peroxide production by blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) under photoautotrophic conditions is of great interest as a model system for the bioconversion of solar energy. Our experimental system was based on the photosynthetic reduction of...
iNTRODUCTION TO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, frequently asked questions, get all qa?
8. What is sodium percarbonate? z49
Sodium percarbonate (or sodium carbonate) peroxyhydrate is a non-hazardous granular product developed as an alternative to perborate bleaches in household detergents. When dissolved into water, its releases H2O2 and soda ash (sodium carbonate).
2Na2CO3 . 3H2O2 ---> 2Na2CO3 + 3H2O2
a- The pH of the resulting solution is typically alkaline, which activates the H2O2 for bleaching. The dry powder contains about 30% w/w H2O2 and finds specialty use as a wood brightener and general cleaning aid. Check with a local supplier to industrial laundries for sourcing.
10. Can H2O2 be used for disinfecting my pool or spa? z50
a- By itself, H2O2 is a rather poor microbiocide compared to chlorine, bromine, ozone, and other commonly used disinfectants. Consequently, it is not approved by regulatory agencies as a stand-alone treatment in these applications. However, there are a number of technologies which use H2O2 as part of the treatment program. These include: UV disinfection + H2O2; ozone + H2O2; silver salts + H2O2; and quaternary ammonium salts + H2O2. The first three of these are in various stages of commercialization (depending on the state), while the latter is available under the Baquacil label. You are advised to contact the Pool + Spa Association to learn the status of these treatments in your area.US Peroxide is unable to offer assistance for pool and spa applications of H2O2.
18. What work has been done on using H2O2 in place of chlorine as a disinfectant for water? z51
a- Compared to chlorine (or ozone), chlorine dioxide, or uv-light, H2O2 is a rather poor disinfectant and is not approved as a stand-alone treatment for microbial control in water systems. Consequently, it is unlikely that any stand-alone process will be available in the foreseeable future. On the other hand, H2O2 can be used to improve the performance of certain other disinfection methods (e.g., ozonation and UV-photolysis. For non-potable water treatment (e.g., cooling water circuits, there is active development and commercialization of both H2O2-derived disinfectants (e.g., peracetic acid and combination treatments with biguanide-type quaternary ammonium compounds. We will be adding more information about this area to our website in the near future -- stay tuned. Up to Topic Index Up to Question Index
19. Can H2O2 remove ammonia from wastewater? z52
a- Generally no. The ammonium ion is extremely resistant to any common oxidant except active halogens (chlorine, bromine, iodine). While free radical oxidation of undissociated NH3 is possible (using catalytic H2O2), the high pH required is such that the primary removal mechanism is volatilization. Methods typically used for ammonia removal include: biological nitrification/denitrification, air stripping (at high pH, adsorption onto selective ion exchange resins or clinolite (a natural mineral), or super-chlorination.
22. Is H2O2 really a 'natural' substance? z53
a- Yes. H2O2 is produced by both animal and plant cells -- being associated with the mitochondrial respiratory chain, as well as various hydroxylation and oxygenation reactions. For example, the popular free-radical dietary supplement, superoxide dismutase (SOD), serves to convert the toxic superoxide radical (O2-) into H2O2, as do the flavin-linked oxidases. A number of other enzymes such as the heme-containing catalase (located in mitochondrial peroxisomes) then decompose the H2O2 to oxygen in order to protect the cells from subsequent damage. You can see these enzymes in action for yourself when you apply H2O2 topically to a cut or wound and witness the intense foaming. Also, the whitening of skin when exposed to more concentrated H2O2 is due to trapped oxygen beneath the epidermis caused as a result of H2O2 permeating through the skin and being decomposed by epidural enzymes. Saliva is another source for H2O2-decomposing enzymes -- hence the foaming when brushing with H2O2-containing tooth pastes. H2O2 is also an active intermediate in the bioluminescence reaction involving the luciferase enzyme (from fireflies).
We have only recently begun to explore how these enzymatic reactions utilizing H2O2 may be harnessed for environmental use. Two examples of active research (and field testing) involve the peroxidase-H2O2 reaction (from the white rot fungus) to degrade toxic organic compounds and to delignify / bleach wood pulp. get goo.htm for ref and 287.gif
Definition:
The commercial-scale production, by electrolytic means, of hydrogen peroxide.
(Synonyms: albone manufacture, albone manufacturing, alkaline sodium peroxide manufacture, alkaline sodium peroxide manufacturing, alkaline sodium peroxide preparation, electrolytic albone production, electrolytic H2O2 production, electrolytic hydrogen peroxide manufacture, electrolytic hydrogen peroxide manufacturing, electrolytic inhibine production, electrolytic perhydrol production, electrolytic peroxan production, inhibine manufacture, inhibine manufacturing, perhydrol manufacture, perhydrol manufacturing, peroxan manufacture, peroxan manufacturing
Definition:
The production of hydrogen peroxide. related terms.
(Synonyms: H2O2 manufacture, H2O2 manufacturing, H2O2 preparation, H2O2 production, H2O2 synthesis, hydrogen peroxide manufacture, hydrogen peroxide manufacturing, hydrogen peroxide preparation, hydrogen peroxide synthesis
z56
Hydrogen Peroxide Production and Oxidation of Ferrous Iron by Lactobacillus delbrueckii ssp. bulgaricus
Key Words: iron, hydrogen peroxide, Lactobacillus delbrueckii ssp. bulgaricus
icemak.htm + 2! -repairclinic.com ph.800-269-2609 icemaker info z59
links: many appliance brands ge, amana, When the wire goes all the way back down, the ice maker refills with water and repeats the process. -get?
z60 Comparison of Newly Isolated Strains of Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis for Hydrogen Peroxide Production at 5'C
z61 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE PRODUCTION PRODUCTS: 'Panacea' Gasketing
PP-363 - Special Compound of Plasticized Vinyl for use in Hydrogen Peroxide
'Panacea' PT-70-M - 'Easy to Seal' PTFE Protected EPDM Gaskets
z62 Growing Mushrooms -Cultivation with Hydrogen Peroxide
best pics and most helpful pics: z63 483-487.gif -pnt! post! cd-rw it.
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analytical methods for peroxide, z64 h2o2kits.htm: products for measuring H2O2 residuals in the field. lowlevelcobalt.htm z65
New applications for H2O2 within the food processing and drinking water industries require the accurate measurement of residual H2O2
h2o2.com Hydrogen Peroxide Environmental and Industrial Applications
overview.htm ! good INTRODUCTION TO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, uses, processes z66
1p warning handling label H-PEROXIDE, VALSTERANE 35% and 50%
SPECIFICATIONS z67 thermodynamics.htm - detailed 2!? z68
H2O2 Thermodynamic Properties Determination of thermodynamic properties for H2O2 are complicated by:
1 Uncertainties due to H2O2 decomposition
2 Irreversibility of H2O2 formation and decomposition
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search words: dehumidifier principle vortex z69
my notes: same principle as a refrigerator, freezer, or air-conditioner. z70
Residential dehumidifiers have a cooling system made up of these primary components:
-The compressor is the quiet motor (engine) of the cooling system. It's the black, football-size component at the bottom of your dehumidifier. The compressor runs as long as the dehumidifier humidistat (the humidity-sensor )calls for a reduction in the humidity.
-The condenser is a series of finned tubes, similar to a radiator. It's usually near the circulating fan.
-The evaporator is located near the back of the dehumidifier, right above the water-collection container. It also resembles a radiator or a coiled-up set of tubes. When the dehumidifier's humidistat senses increased humidity, it cycles on, which starts the compressor and circulating fan.
-circulating-fan circulates the air over the evaporator and condenser coils.
Principle: draws common air over cold then warm 'coils'. 1!, z71
use vortex-tube at exair.com? to make cold and hot spots, or use compressor(cold) and condenser(warm) motors. other methods of cold + hot?
motor method: When the unit runs, the circulating fan and compressor also run. The fan continually draws room air over the evaporator coils, which are cold, and then over the condenser coils, which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are cold, moisture in the room collects on them--just as the outside of a glass of icy liquid 'sweats' on a warm, humid day. When moisture on the coils increases, it drips off the coils into collection container.
air then flows over the warm condenser coils and out to the room. This process removes water from the air and, because of heat from the fan motor and compressor motor, the exiting air is somewhat warmer, as well as dryer.
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z72 -All About Dehumidifiers: 1p 2! Damp air is passed over cold metal coils, and the water in the air condenses rapidly on to the metal. The water then drains away into a tank.
adjustable humidistat?, frost stops action?, ten and 25 litres pr day,
in use keep the doors and windows closed, ventilating the room for short periods of time. In summer homes locked up all day prevents mildew forming. In winter homes that are too damp.
z73 -hbc desiccant dehumidifier\adsorption-type
The adsorption rotor with its large surface of silica gel
my notes: principle: variations - types with one air fan only, types with heat recovery from the rotor, types with air cooled condenser. Small models regenerate electrically, whereas you may choose steam or gas too,
components: Adsorption rotor, drive motor, heating elements, air fans, air filters and electric components, -all built into a cabinet. only connections to power supply and necessary air ducts are needed.
principle: adsorption-rotor is large surface of silica-gel. able to absorbing humidity from the air passing through it. The process-air is lead through the process air-filter, then trough the drying-section of the rotor where the air will be dried and will leave the dehumidifier as dry air. The water from the process air has now been absorbed in the rotor.
next The rotor slowly turns and the water absorbed in the rotor will be removed by the regeneration-air which is carried through the regeneration-air-filter, and-after the heatup through the regeneration section of the rotor. and2 leaves the dehumidifier as wet air.?
z74 The two airflows passes trough the slow turning rotor simultaneously. In this way a continuous and automatic process is obtained. The rotor is constructed for the varying water adsorption/regeneration and will be able to withstand this interaction for many years without loosing capacity. 1! The rotor is made of silica gel on a supportive material of fibre glass.
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Marine Dehumidifier Dryers, Industrial Models DHD 8000 + 18000
dhd series marine, advanced heat pipe technology, the DHD Series uses only about half the electrical power. z75
seaside corrosion-Oxidization of newly blasted steel surfaces occurs after sand blasting when the ambient relative humidity is high (>80%RH). common practice is to blow very dry air on the surface between the sand blasting and protective-coating stages. DHD Series provides hot drying cycle to cure coatings even quicker. Principle of the Heat Pipe Dehumidifier Dryer:
All? dehumidifiers based on refrigeration principle use a compressor to cool the air in order to extract moisture.1!? The cold air then must be heated back up to reduce its relative humidity. The drier the air, the better it helps the unprotected surfaces from corrosion. The hotter and drier the air, the shorter the time for fresh paint or clay? to cure. - or crystalize?
z76 How is the Heat Pipe Applied in the Dehumidifier Dryer Machine?
First, one section of the heat pipes passively precools the entering air to reduce the load on the refrigeration system. Then by using the energy absorbed from the first heat pipe section, the second section releases this energy back into the supply air in form of heat to lower air relative humidity. Result: About half the energy is saved! -see pics or re-get.
see: list of consumption and output rates by the two models.
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-best pic s-how 1! All DST dehumidifiers use the Seibu Giken silicagel rotor. 124 Kallang Place , Singapore 339191 Fax: 65-62346389 email: info@way-technovation.com z77
In the Seibu Giken rotor the silicagel is chemically bonded to the structure, which means that there is no desiccant carry-over to the dry air. It also means an excellent lifetime. After 10 years of operation the Seibu Giken rotor dehumidifies with more than 90% of its original capacity! + washable rotor if contaminated by harsh conditions. no dust is carried over to the dry air in a Seibu Giken rotor. Tests placed in sewage stations have also shown that the rotor is bacteriostatic.
The adsorption rotor: alternate layers of flat and corrugated sheets, impregnated with an active component called desiccant. this form a vast number of axial air channels running parallel through the structure. As the air passes through the channels it is dried. most important part is the rotor z78 The desiccant material:
in 1950's chloride salt was used as the desiccant. Lithium chloride absorbs the moisture through a chemical reaction. The disadvantage of a 1! salt-impregnated rotor is that it can't withstand high humidity. Saturated air will cause the salt to partially leave the rotor and thereby decrease the capacity and cause corrosion of the dehumidifier.
but silica gel types adsorbs the moisture, the water molecules adhere to the surface of the silica gel. advantage is that it can withstand saturated air, years if chemically bonded to the rotor. z79
2 Will there be dust from the rotor? - Both lithium chloride and silica gel rotors containing loose desiccant will cause some dust to leave the rotor with the dry air. Apart from possible damage of dried materials the capacity of the rotor will deteriorate. Only rotors with chemically bonded silica gel will have no desiccant carry-over to the dry air.
3 Washability: If the rotor is contaminated by accident or used in applications with contaminated air, for example oil mist, it is important that the rotor is washable, and that you can wash it yourself!
4 Bacterial growth: Tests on a silica gel rotor used in a water sewage plant shows no bacteria formation on the rotor. This is thanks to the high temperature (above 120'C) when regenerating the rotor and to the low relative humidity in the dry air.
varieties of the basic process: z80
CONSORB: the basic sorption dehumidifying process. The process-air (light green in picture) is pushed through the sorption rotor. humidity in the air is transferred to the rotor material, and the dry air(yellow) exits the dehumidifier. As the rotor rotates the moist rotor material will enter the regeneration section where hot air(dark green) will dry the rotor. The now humid air(blue) is sucked out to the outside. Consorb-principle is normally used with low regeneration temperatures or when drying very humid air.
z81 RECUSORB: a continuous dehumidifier with internal energy recovery, able to reach very low dew points. During regeneration, sensible heat is adsorbed by the rotor material. This heat is xfrd to a purge sector where the incoming regeneration air is preheated and its moisture content reduced. While less heat is now required to reach the final regeneration temperature, the air will also be at a much lower relative humidity. so, the dry air outlet is both cooler and drier than that achieved by other desiccant systems.
z82 RECUSORB DR has one fan for both dry air and wet air. This gives an easier installation for over-pressurising the dehumidified room. The Recusorb DR-principle is used in our portable units.
z83 FRIGOSORB is suitable for applications where it is difficult to duct out the wet air from the dehumidified area. The unit includes a heat pump that first heats the incoming air (dark green) which dries the rotor. The humid air (blue) is cooled and water is condensed. In order to further dry the air it then passes through the rotor which adsorbs most of the remaining humidity. Thanks to the heat pump the Frigosorb is very energy-efficient.
z84 ECONOSORB The principle is similar to the Frigosorb-principle, but the wet air (blue) does not pass through the evaporator. The process air (dark green) to the left passes through the evaporators and is both partially dried as well as pre-cooled. Thanks to the built in cooling the dry air (yellow) has the same or lower temperature as the process inlet air.
z85 Aquasorb condenses out the moist and no wet air exhaust is needed. Aquasorb is easy to install and is constructed in stainless steel. Both the dry air from the rotor and the warm air from the air-cooled condenser are gathered in one large amount of dry air. Thanks to the evaporating energy, more energy is put out in the dry air than the unit consume in electric energy. Aquasorb can be delivered with a practical trolley.
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about: DST is a Product line of Way Technovation
Product Information: R-Series ( Large DH) ,DR/DC-Series ( Mid-small DH )
- - z86 Seibu Giken's SSCR Metal Silicate Rotor is manufactured from alternate layers of flat and corrugated sheets of metal silicate, chemically bonded into a tissue of inorganic fibre. It is made to form a vast number if axial air channels running parallel thro' the structure. The large surface combined with the special micro structure of the metal silicate material, ensure maximum contact area and transferability between the air and the rotor to give an extremely high capacity for water vapour adsorption.
z87 Dehumidifiers are using rotors from 150 mm diameter to 3,500 mm with dehumidifying capacities from 0,5 kilograms to 600 kilograms per hour. Dry air flows are available from 50 CMH to 80,000 CMH. As well as the standard range of dehumidifiers, we manufacture custom made units specially designed to achieve maximum efficiency based on customers ruuuirement.
pic-Large Dessicant Wheel Cassettes are being made
Product Info: DST R-Series ( Large DH) ,DST DR/DC-Series ( Mid-small DH)
MASTER INFORMATION : 2! -links to the models and nfo you want
- - other: air water mumbai india, BlueGold CD
-wiki dic definition of dehumidify + links answers.com
my notes: dehumidify: To remove atmospheric moisture from. try:refridgerated
z88 usually work by drawing moist air over a refrigerated metal coil with a fan. Since the saturated vapor pressure of water decreases with decreasing temperature (i.e. cold air can hold less water vapor, the water in the air condenses, and drips into a collecting bucket. The air is then reheated by the warmer side of the refrigeration coil. why reheated?
z89 drip out to a drain? sensors detect when bucket is full. Air conditioners 1! act as dehumidifiers when they chill the air and thus need to handle the accumulated water as well. New window-units use condensing coil and fan to evaporate the accumulated water into outdoor air, older units simply drip outside. Central air conditioning units need to be connected to a drain.
other type: z90
A desiccant-dehumidifier uses a desiccant material to produce a dehumidification effect. Desiccant materials (clay?) desire water vapor. Typically their moisture content relates to humidity of the surrounding air. Exposed to low relative humidities desiccant materials come to equilibrium at low moisture contents and exposure to high relative humidities results in equilibrium at high moisture contents. The process involves exposing the desiccant material to a high relative humidity air stream, allowing it to attract and retain some of the water vapor and then exposing the same desiccants to a lower relative humidity air stream which has the affect of drawing the retained moisture from the desiccant.
z91
1! The first air stream is the air that is being dehumidified while the second air stream is used only to regenerate the desiccant material so that it is ready to begin another cycle. Note that the first air streams water vapor content is reduced while the second air stream's water vapor content is increased. Typically the low relative humidity air stream is air taken from any available source and heated to reduce its relative humidity. Hence desiccant dehumidifiers consume 1! heat energy to dehumidify.
z92
a desiccant dehumidifier is four parts. 1! part that holds the desiccant. -of which there are several types, 2 fan to move the air to be dehumidified (process air) through the desiccant holder, 3 fan? to move the low humidity air for drying the desiccant through the desiccant holder, 4 heater to heat the air that will be used to dry the desiccant (regeneration air).
z93 See also: Atmospheric water generator(awg), a machine that makes pure drinking water from air. Humidifier, an appliance that increases the humidity of air. z94 Relative effectiveness: Refrigerant dehumidifiers are more efficient when the air is quite humid (over about 45% relative humidity), higher if the air is cold. Sometimes, they are used in tandem, such as when the air is very humid, and needs to be made very dry.(1) z95 Drinking the water: The water from any dehumidifier is technically distilled water. since surfaces are not kept to food-grade cleanliness, the water is not considered safe to drink. In fact, as the water may sit for a while in the collection bucket, the water may be quite stale.
You can get dehumidifiers that take the waste water from the process and put it though enough filtration to be able to present it as drinking water, Such a machine is called an Atmospheric water generator. (awg)
External links 1! wikipedia.org? z96 vapaire.com
http://doityourself.com/dehumidify, homerepair.about.com/od/dehumidifier
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_14_3.asp, cooloff.org/sub_dehum.html
z97 india.htm: 'The WaterMaker -tm: extracts pure water from the atmosphere and processes the water to a clear, drinkable condition.' + cell solar-power?
marine.htm: Marine Dehumidifier Dryers, heat-pipe principle -is 1-6.htm
z98
principle.htm: -gallery? -get more of repeats or continues 1-4.htm
The rotor is made of silica gel on a supportive material of fibre glass.
z99 rephome.htm: -repairclinic.com home-page parts helps links to Info On:
Air Conditioner,Dehumidifier,Dishwasher,Dryer,Freezer,Garbage Disposer,Hot Water Dispenser,Humidifier,Ice Maker,Microwave,Range Vent Hood,Range/ Stove/Oven,Refrigerator,Trash Compactor,Washing Machine,Water Filter z100 sciperio.htm: -.com home-page christian? links to Laser Photonics, Digital Printing,Water Technology, Biotechnology, Airships, Antenna Research
z101
wiki.htm -wikipedia answers.com def links how alt rel, for:
Atmospheric water generator (AWG), WaterMaker (WM), Air to Water Harvest (A2WH) or Water Air Extraction Device (WAED) is a machine that produces pure drinking water from the humidity of the air around. An AWG operates in a manner very similar to that of a refrigerative dehumidifer: air is passed through a cooled coil, causing water to condense. The amount of water depends on the humidity, the volume of air passing through the coils, and the size of the machine. 120/500/250 litres per day -see pics! 2!
z102
An AWG uses refrigeration techniques optimized to condense water from air. Blower driven air is drawn into the system through an electrostatic filter. In the machine's exterior housing, a compressor circulates refrigerant through a coil array located in the path of the air providing a temperature differential between the air and coil surface, resulting in condensation.
z103
The condensation is funneled into a holding tank. A level switch in the holding tank controls the water making cycle. Water is pump circulated in an ozone generating UV light chamber to kill bacteria and then through high and low density charcoal filters to remove solids and oxygenates. It is finally collected back in the holding tank. The water filtration cycle is both flow and time controlled. Water is dispensed by tap valve diversion. oxygen kills germs to, -bubble the water or shake. store in terra-cotta egg-shapes and or use vortex-motion to preserve energize or funnel-siphon contaminates to center and expel out.
Considerations z104
AWGs with 120/500/250 litres per day capacity, Needs no water source.
Generates 20 litres to unlimited quantity in 24 hours. Is designed for maximum cost efficiency. Contains no harmful minerals or chemicals.
Can be powered by solar energy. The cost effectiveness of an atmospheric water generator depends on the capacity of the machine as well as on humidity and temperature conditions.
z105
models can operate on electrical power, solar power or with oil fired generators. Low humidity conditions are a challenge. The system will not produce water or may produce very less water during the day in the desert or in very hot climates due to less humidity. will produce water at night due to dew point factor. The machine will trip off when humidity goes below 35RH. z106 Water stays fresh due to continuous filtration process governed by a timer. A water generator can meet standards of the US Environmental Protection Agency EPA, WHO and Bureau of Indian Standards norms.
z107
care periodic cleaning of the air filters and water storage tank. and the carbon filter changed every six months and UV filter once a year or so.
If done the unit will operate well for approximately 10-12 years. Alternative methods: The below is not AWGs but alternative methods of water making:
z108 company using the dessicant lithium chloride to pull water from the air , afterward water must be boiled off and distilled). Sciperio.com z109
Another companys machine extracts water from car exhausts. problems: water quality, but non conventional. check out: Lexcarb.com? z110
See word:humidity, for more about the water in air, dehumidifier: for the same principle applied to making air dryer. + words:dehydrate, hot, cold
External links Manufacturers z111
http://www.watermakerindia.com/ http://www.airwatercorp.com
http://www.air2water.net/ http://www.aquair.com/
http://www.aquamaker.com/ http://www.drinkingwaterfromtheair.com/
http://lexcarb.com/ http://www.sciperio.com/
http://www.wataireindustries.com/
z112 Water usage calculator + Humidity calculator : http://www.aquair.com/Water%20Consumption%20Calculator.html
http://www.aquair.com/Relative%20Humidity%20Calculator.html
related links: z113 atmospheric water generator is mentioned in these Answer.com?Pages: Non-industrial water filtration watermaker dehumidifier
mineral water distilled water, World Day for Water, safe water,dehydration
water quality, drought , More> most helpful pics: op_+.gif -reget desi+.jpg thdehumi.jpg - - z114
search words: hydrogen-peroxide production project z115
I know of the reaction K2SO4 + H20 gives K2SO3 + H202. But how is this implemented in practice? h2o2 from\for fuelcell, very good working z117
ISSUE 17 -KEYWORDS: HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, FUEL CELLS, ELECTROCHEMICAL SYNTHESIS, ONE-STAGE PROCESS, MEMBRANE ASSEMBLY MODULES, JOHNSON MATTHEY
the role of reactvve oxygen species in mammalian longevity z118
Photochemical Production of Radical Oxidants + Hydroperoxides from z119 organic matter and nitrate in sea salt aerosols
z120 DEPARTMENT OF IMMUNOLOGY, faces and achievments
z121 lifespan by protecting against free radicals
z122 england colledge links, plants links Centre for Research
z123 The hydrogen peroxide production process project.
z124 cpd training courses with list of objectives for each
z125 formula-gifs and process? z126 new role:one-stage h2o2 production
z127 cpd short-courses in water-science.
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words: homemade hydrogen-peroxide
! z129 alterntte h2o2 uses remedies + more details
z130 ! we sale h2o2-stills, fair nfo, good pics, a fake?
my notes are clues: Distillation, made entirely of borosilicate glass (PYREX) and Teflon,don't have any moving parts to wear out, two 20 liter stills produce more than one 50 liter still. glass blower man, produce your own 90-98% hydrogen peroxide, vacuum transfer your peroxide, an ionic purification process to remove the stabilizers, metals and minerals,That is $0.59 / lb USD for 90% h2o2!! vs 22$ store-bought, The price of the 20 liters flask distillation machine with the deionizing process included is $15,800 USD. plus shipping to any part of the world.
z131 BadBreathgone.com alternate view of h2o2, z132 h2o2 links to rocketry
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z133 myspace.com site for anti-gov movie: a scanner darkly
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z134 words: water survival condense
! z135 brief but sharp -HikingwithMike, PO Box 68
Wilderness Survival Tips - Backpacking Tips
my notes: prefix: FIRE STARTIN,EMERGENCY KIT,GET FOUND,WATER STILL,STAYING ALIVe,BUILDING A QUINZE OR SNOW CAVE
kit: a still could save your life! a large plastic trash bag and 3' long drinking tube, emergency candles - great as fire start aid; Waterproof matches; flint (scrape knife blade against it to create sparks); Butane lighter as backup; Signal Mirror; Good pocket knife (Swiss Army style); Emergency solar blanket; Emergency tent (optional) (plastic fold-up; Emergency poncho; Emergency whistle; Sunscreen (optional); 1 pair wool socks; Small flashlight + spare batteries; 2 Granola Bars or Power Bars; Medication you may need, including Aspirin or non-aspirin pain killer; Extra bootlaces (may second as small ropes; sewing kit + safety pins; a yard of thin wire; one to three yards of Duct tape; small bag of salt; Cellular Phone
lost: 1!z136 make sure someone knows where you'll be and your timetable. Use emergency whistle, signal mirror, smoke from burning green or damp plants.
WATER STILL: 2! details of clear-plastic sealed holes. this water-still in the desert will probably not deliver enough drinkable water to make the work entailed in making the still worthwhile. The still works best where the moisture source is good, such as with a still near the ocean, where salt water conversion to drinking water is the goal.
STAYING ALIVe: 2! z137 first concerns after safety, immediate shelter from heat or cold, and the treatment of any injuries should be water. You must find it. A bandana, sock or tee shirt can be used to remove dew from wet grasses and leaves. A water still may save your life (see discussion above under TIP #5. Trap rainwater in rain gear, tent fly, plastic bag, etc. Seek low areas and areas of lush greenery., water purification tablets,especially between 2PM and 6Pm, the most likely summer thunderstorm period. Avoid marshy areas and wide open areas, as well, during thunderstorms. There, you will stand out as a target and watery earth conducts electricity. Get away from metal you may be carrying. Stay put! Do not wander about. Movement diminishes chances for being found; increases the chance of injury; burns vital energy and increases need for water. Use your time gathering firewood, nursing your fire, replenishing water supply, etc.
A QUINZE: 1! z138 snow shelter sim2 my efforts with clay. 2 methods: 1.build pile and let each layer crystalize b4 next layer, then hollow out, 2. if no time to let set to crystalize, dig trench, cover with sticks, then snow on top.
1-14.htm ! z139 chat group searches it 4u http://www.halfbakery.com
my-notes.txt:subjetct = Fresh Water Hand Pump. two ways of boiling water. You can either raise the temperature, or lower the pressure. Since water at room temperature boils at around 0.36psi Vacuum aided boiling to distill away impurities, Since atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 pounds per square inch (101.3kPa, and I can easily lift 14.7 pounds with one hand (even after a few glasses, it should not be difficult. This could be the size and weight of a bicycle pump, and would be perfect to include in any survival kit. google.com: vacuum distill water,
every war in the near future (after this one, obviously) will be over drinkable water,instead of being over oil. -Pericles, Mar 29 2003
Boiling z142 is one way to get the water molecules away from impurities. Osmosis is another. Reverse osmosis hand pumps, the filter must be replaced - but not in your method. hookes law. the pressure inside is 0.36psi and the pressure outside is 14.7psi. The force you have to apply is the difference - 14.34lb. , as liquids dont expand or contract. This requires a much higher force, to create this vacuum you need to break intermolecular forces. answer?: z143 Have it inject a small bubble of air into the water at the bottom of the down stroke. 2! Otherwise, you might be better off using that hand power to condense water from air. it's just a matter of funneling off the water as it condenses back. hand or bicycle powered?, The difference between the boiling pressure of water at room temperature and ambient pressure is about 14.3 psi. z144 Considering a bicycle pump is capable of well over 60 psi
Enough water would vaporise to build up the pressure in the vacuum. Then it would stop. downward could compress the vapour quickly, before it condenses and drops back into the water, and pump it out through a check valve.
So, in effect, the pump needs to 'work' in both directions. Slow up and fast down. -Ling, Apr 28 2005 -see clark-pump?
(ling) Quick isn't necesary. z145 It needs to condense either way, the trick is seperating the condensation. If you introduce the dirty water in the center, the walls can be used to collect condensation(which prefers walls) -my: sounds like a vortex!
1! z146had to give up the study to focus on how to make enough money to eat.
The sum of all freshwater on earth would easily flood the city built to hold all earths people in my estimations.
1! z147 Is it that the human state of being is to bicker + bargain over resources it could never use individually so as to prove dominance? -Zimmy, Apr 28 2005
z148 Last figures I saw pointed to the population of the Earth fitting into an area the size of Tasmania, if they lived at the housing density of the city of Shanghai. -UnaBubba, Apr 28 2005
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1-15.htm SURVIVAL IN A CAVE - brief but sharp, by gary bush z149
my-notes: clothing: layering will keep you warm even when wet:polyproplyene,wool,then outer garments, 1! tell people where you are going,when,what. Two garbage bags, double baging increases your insulating dead air space. One space-blanket(plastic-metal?) reflects 90% bodies heat,excellent when used with a second heat source. water, purification tablets, Candles.Matches and/or lighter. Pencil and paper, Watch - or time-traker -cuz being trappped can seem an eternity.
insulate against 1! z150 cold-from-the-ground. Closed-cell-foam pad or a small piece of ensolite which fits easily in any pack.
tea!,Heat water to keep body-core-temperature up. z151
z152 wind from moving water will add to the chilling effects, which in turn will drain your body of precious heat. Next wring out clothes, put back on. 100% humidity will do nothing toward drying them, your body will dry them in about 5 hours. invaluable in keeping you warm. z153 the ground is an excellent heat sink. your head is highly vascularized which allows a lot of heat to escape from there. Its amazing how little food your body needs as long as no great energy demand is made on it. z154 huddles, try to minimize surface areas exposed to the air and ground.
z155 Time seems distorted if waiting to regain contact with...? mind's ability to handle stresses dims when natural cycles are disrupted. staying on a cycle.
z156 2! when contact with water causes the foot to swelL making it painful to walk You can avoid this condition by airing out your feet for 3-4 hours per day. Also, polypropylene inner socks and wool outer socks will help reduce moisture on your feet. Keep your boots off as long as possible. This allows air to circulate around your feet and gives them time to dry.
z157 dont do something rash and get yourself killed. People have died for lack of patience. Don't be one of them. my:-wanting to get home? made me rush on a new path were i lost my eyes -sunglasses.
z158 1-3p1.htm + p2 3 4 ! very nfo, 2many words? 2! millennium-ark.com?
preface: Finding Survival Water:
z159 Many men died because didnt know how... insects, Bees must have water. Pigeons and all grain eaters must have water, but the flesh eaters such as the crow, hawk and eagle... know something of their nature to find their hidden stores of precious water. One drop of contaminated water can so sicken that... assume all water to be impure until proved. animals drinking it or smell is not proof its safe. native people using it may have built an immunity to its harms. boiling for 10min kills germs, but not chemical pollutants which may travel with steam in a still?, can be clay or carbon-filtered?
z160 Getting sick takes days, even weeks, or death. -thats water entering you by 'any' way. example, water used4 toothbrush, food, utensils washed, or used in cooking (except at high-long heat).
z161 NOTE: Boiled water tastes flat. Air and taste can be restored by shaking it or, add a pinch of salt.
z162 STAGNANT WATER and POLLUTED WATER
Both made safe filtered through a sieve of charcoal. To clarify + purify it. How much filtering is a question, safer to boil.
MUDDY WATERS CLEANING METHODS z163
If muddy, floating clay particles can be settled out by adding a pinch of alum. This, however, requires at least 12 hours waiting and lots of wood!
Polluted or dirty water can be filtered by straining through closely woven garments such as a felt hat or a pair of thick drill trousers. This will remove sediments only, not purify.
TO CLEAN and PURIFY MUDDY WATER: 2! z164
Step 1 Let it rest during 12 hours.
Step 2 Let it circulate inside a bamboo stick or other tube measuring 1 yard, filled with sand and the end packed with grass.
Step 3 Then pour water through a cloth filled with sand which filters the mud.
Step 4 Boil that water afterward for a minimum of 10 minutes.
TO MAKE A FILTER: z165 method clears water but not any dissolved minerals nor ensure purity.
Water is polluted by animal and mineral matter, discoloring vegetable substances such as grass roots and dead leaves.
The first two can not be removed with any sureness by ordinary filtering. This filter is to clear water by straining it through solid material.
A "wild" filter in sandy areas: scooping a hole a few feet from the source, let the water seep into it.
HOT STONES METHOD z166
Polluted water can be sterilized by adding hot stones to the water in the filter. The water will soon boil becoming sterile and safe drink.
near cities or villages it is always safer to boil before drinking or add a pinch of chloride of lime. 2!
Water very muddy, dirty or stagnant can be filtered in a pair of trousers with one leg turned inside out and put inside the other leg. z167
The cuff is tied and the upper part held open by 3 stakes driven well into the ground. Fill with the dirty water and then drop in the hot stones.
water filtered MUST be caught by a container and poured back til clear. z166 Boil. Remember 1! just moistening your lips with polluted water can make you sick for days; it can even kill you. -so no bread\cookie preservatives.
WATER PURITY
two rules to choose from: z167
1. when doubt about water, purify it.
2. a lively bubbling stream cleans itself in 30 feet of flowing over rocks and sands. meens 'If the cow's around the bend, the water's fit to drink.'
2. fits mountainous, wooded country.
1. Yet as pollution increases, we take first rule.
z168
Boiling takes fuel and time, but in dangerous regions drink a lot of tea dont wait to cool. For Halazone (drug?), use one tablet per pint of water, let stand 1/2 hour , tastes like a swimming pool.
Aerating pouring it back and forth between two containers shaking several times removes chlorine taste. hold your breath while drinking it.
SIMPLE CHEMICAL PURIFICATION z169
chemicals at most sporting goods and drug stores. depends upon the release of chlorine gas, the tablets should be fresh and dry.
z170 2! NO PURIFICATION OF WATER BY CHEMICAL MEANS IS AS SAFE AS BOILING.
and chemicals dont remove chemicals? only living diseases.
z171
Two tabs of Iodine will ordinarily make a quart of water safe for human consumption in 1/2 hour. if unsure double the amount and standing time to be sure. 1! disinfect all points of contact with the container, so that the sterilized water will not be easily reinfected.
z172
If a jar or canteen is being used together with Iodine, replace the cover loosely and wait 30 minutes so the tablets(gasses can dissolve). Then shake allowing some to spill out over the top and lips of the holder. Tighten the cover and leave it that way for the time 30min.
CHLORIDE OF LIME z173
Chlorine in some form is regarded as the most dependable disinfectant for drinking water. When introduced in proper quantities, it destroys any existing organisms. For as long as enough remains in the water, it prevents recurring contamination. better to over-dosage than not enough.
EMERGENCY CHLORINATING DONE IN 3 STEPS z174
1 Dissolve one heaping tablespoon of chloride of lime in 8 quarts of water.
2 Add one part of this solut to 100 parts of the water to be disinfected.
3 Wait 30 min. keep tightly corked, cool, dark place and renewed often.
Tincture of iodine can be used as an emergency purifier. A drop mixed thoroughly with one quart of water , wait 30 minutes. double the amount and time if cautions.
IODINE WATER PURIFICATION TABLETS z175
Chlorine-releasing compound can not be relied upon in semi-tropical and tropical areas. Water in those regions must be sterilized either by boiling or by iodine water purification tablets containing the active ingredient Tetraglycine Hydroperiodine, is standard by the armed services of the USA.
proved effective against all water-borne bacteria. Added to water each tablet frees 8 milligrams of iodine which act as a purification factor.
One tablet will purify one quart. must b kept dry. bottle recapped tightly.
Step 1 Add one tablet to a quart of water in container with cap.
Step 2 Wait 3 minutes.
Step 3 Shake water thoroughly, allowing a little water to leak out and disinfect the screw threads before tightening the cap.
Step 4 Wait 10 minutes before drinking or adding beverage powders and if water is very cold 1!, wait 20 minutes.
Step 5 If water contains decaying vegetation or is murky and discolored, use 2 tablets for every one quart.
Step 6 Make certain that the iodine disinfects any part of the container which will come in contact with your lips.
OTHER CHEMICALS TO STERILIZE WATER z176
Step 1 JAVEL: Add 5 drops of Javel per 4.5 litres of water never pass that dosage. Its drawback is that water tastes acidic.
Step 2 'Permanganate de Potasse': Drop a piece of it in the water in a way that the water is hardly tainted and wait 1 hour before drinking.
Step 3 In South America, people purify water ponds with 1! copper sulphate 1 million parts to one part of water.
HOW TO RECOGNIZE POISONOUS WATER HOLES: z177
as southwestern deserts of usa contain dissolved poison such as arsenic. recognized partly by bones of unwary animals about area, green vegetation is oddly absent. 1!? Avoid any water hole without green plants.
POISONED RIVER: z178
He simply dug a hole at 9 feet from the river bank and let the water seep through thus eliminating the poison. must be dug deeper than the river bed.
HARD WATER z179
small amounts at any one time. Boiling may be of some help, but that is all one can do, until used to it.
A WAY TO SWEETEN WATER z180
If you are camping by a swamp or pond with an unpleasant odor,
Just drop several bits of charred hardwood from the campfire into the boiling pot. 10 or 15 minutes simmering will do the job.
Then you can skim away most of the foreign matter and strain the water through a clean cloth or allow it to settle 12hr.
WATER HAZARDS and SICKNESS z181
Diseases from water 1! is one of the greatest threats to survival, also injuries, cold and man! brings: Dysentery, Cholera, Typhoid, Douves.
DYSENTERY z182
This sickness causes general diarrhea, painful and of long duration with bloody stools and weakness. If you think you suffer it, eat frequently and drink, if possible, coconut milk and boiled water. coconut milk is a laxative, drink small. Boiled rice is best as food during this illness.
CHOLERA AND TYPHOID z183
Even with vaccine, you are vulnerable by unproper water drinking habits.
DOUVES z184
They abound in stagnant and polluted water especially in the Tropics. When you swallow them, they infiltrate the blood causing severe sickness and often death. These parasite worms penetrate the body even through the skin.
z185
1! Don't walk or bathe in contaminated waters. Nowhere does the addition of liquor to ice or water rid either of germs. (Germs keep well in ice); they don't die.
LEECHES and HOW TO GET RID OF THEM z186
The small leeches abound most particularly in water streams of Africa. When swallowed, they cling to throat and nose passages. They suck the blood and cause wounds. These parasites move and each time they do, they cause new open wounds which leads the way to infection.
Clean your nose 1! as quickly as possible by sniffing very salted water or remove the leeches with improvised tweezers or with the heat from a burning stick. or rub salt on them which will make them leave.
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WHERE TO FIND WATER? z187
always learning from nature. water near the tops of mountains indicated by a lush area or a thread of green 'verdancy' coming down a slope.
Water is also prone to lie near the base of hills, recognized density of vegetation. country flat and open, long tangles of brush and shrubs alder and willow tell much water.
WHEN TO FOLLOW GAME TRAIL 1! z188
Those trails often indicate water presence. A usually reliable indication is a marked increase in the deepening and widening of the trail. commonly mean a muskeg (bog lies ahead), take animals-trail around it.
DESERT WATER 1! z189
Water seeks the lowest level , these may be underground. If you see hills, head toward them, for the likeliest place to find water is at their base.
dry stream-bed . Even dry, water may lie beneath the surface. Hunt for a low place and dig. same with dry lake bottoms. soon indicated by damp sand.
Game trails in desert country usually lead to water. Follow them downhill scout around for the paths more frequented. z190
a palm-tree or broad-leaf?, meens water within several feet of the base of the tree. thick Reed grass is also a sound sign that moisture? is near.
no water near desert plants, Instead, destructivly use the plant roots water. For cactus, cut off the head and avoid the milk.
Arizona desert, a bottle shaped cactus which contains near 7 quarts .
cut off sections , Mash them in a container. suck the pulp.
TIPS z191
1 Where you see damp soil, dig in surface.
2 just under the surface of a dry river. at the lowest point of the river bed, in the exterior part of the elbow of its bed. Digging under the concave bank of the exterior side of the river curve is the place to find water, Help the water to flow by digging small holes. blood wounds?
3 behind rocks, in trenches and small ditches, on the flank of canyon or under the sharp edge of cliff and maybe you will find natural reservoirs. Often in those places, the soil is made of solid rock or very hard soil well packed that collects water. If you can't find those clues, search for water where the animals leave their traces. z192
4 In desert, remember to observe the flight of birds particularly at dawn and dusk. Birds glide and hover around these marshes. Go there every day; parrots and pigeons are rarely very far from it.
5 In the Gobi Desert, don't count on plants. z193
6 roots of certain desert plants are found very near the surface soil. Remove the skin and suck the water contained in it.
7 The Madagascar Traveling Tree of Western Africa and the Australian and African Baobab are among the plants capable of supplying water.
z194 1!? Don't listen to stories of contaminated wells. The acid taste of certain salty or alkaline waters rich in magnesium are the cause.
Desert waters by the nature of their surge are generally better filtered and clearer than your city water. Yet, better boil that water or add Iodine or Halazone pills especially in native villages or near inhabited places.
DESERT SURVIVAL - WALKING z195
Desert: adapt yourself to it, dont try fighting it.
natives refuse violent effort during hottest hours, they drink and drink as soon as possible. 140 to 350 miles (225 to 563 km) between 10 to 20 days, while walking only at night and with only a little water .
z196 he had taken a short survival course and did the right thing. Helay down in theshadow of his car,outside. and slept the hottest part of the day.
6pm around 95'F (35'C); he set off along the road. He knew there were steel water tanks for tourist at regular intervals. -2! know your target area.
z197 1! Every so often he collected large stones and laid them out on the road to spell the word HELP with an arrow showing the direction he was walking in.
z198
Another family who also got stranded did survive by laying close to the car shadow, applying lipstick to the blisters and swollen lips of the husband and children and covering everyone cheeks and arms with rouge. -try dirt.
z199 Discovering that the ground was cooler a few inches below the surface, she and her husband buried the children up to the neck in sand and applied sand to the children's faces, then they did the same for themselves.
z200 In most deserts, the temperature a foot below the surface is less than 72'F (2! apply this to a dehumidifier devices need of a 'cold spot' -as iranian wind-cathers?} clothing in the can of urine and pressed on children's face, the smell was unpleasant, but the moisture was refreshingly cool. They were later rescued in good health, but if they had decide to walk off in bright day, they would have been either dead or in very bad conditions. It pays to learn the tricks of survival.
DESERT TRAVEL HINTS z201 Travel at night as much as possible.
1 Cover yourself as much as possible. 2!! Clothing stops sweat evaporating too quickly and helps you benefit from its cooling effect. If you remove your shirt, you will feel more at ease but you'll also sweat much more besides risking sunburn. -apply this to a dew-collector concept.
2 Keep your clothing on. You will walk further if you don't sweat too much.
3 Unless you have a lot water, don't waste it washing.
4 When drinking, don't swallow big gulps in one shot. Drink small quantities. If low in water, then only dampen your lips.
5 Keeping a few small pebbles in your mouth will ease your thirst; breathe through the covered nose and don't talk.
6 Absorb salt ! only with water and only if you have a lot of water.
z202
7 Drink as often and as much as you can; the saving of water will not get you much farther, yet don't waste it.
8 When extremely thirsty any liquid is tempting, but don't drink any alcohol. Aside from its effects, it only 2! dehydrates the body.
9 Urine is harmful and only increases thirst.
10 Smoking dehydrates your body and heightens the need to drink.
z203 Sluggishness of the digestive system is a natural consequence of going without normal amounts of water and nourishment. 2!
This condition need not cause concern and will re-adjust itself when normal conditions resume. So don't take any laxative under such conditions for it depletes the body of further fluid.
DEW 2! z204
Dew which settles after cold nights in many stretches of deserts has also been a life saver. Survivors have mopped it from the metal of their wrecked plane or collected it in tarpaulins.
z205 Dew must be collected before the sunrise, for it evaporates quickly. An abundant dew can give a little more than 1 litre of water/hour. Thirsty Bedouins sometimes 2! dig up cool stones just before sunrise and wait till dew settles on them, then lick the stones dry.
z206 In many desert regions according to Israeli scientist Shmuel Duvdevani, dew falls in a quantity which would amount to 25 inches (63.5cm) in a year.
z207 During war, one of the strangest sources of water is the wreck of burned out or shot up jeeps and tanks and trucks. men walked 20 miles (32 km) a day filling up their water bottles regularly from the 2! radiator of such vehicles. (This is a good idea unless the radiator contains glycol ether which is anti-freeze, a toxic substance.
BEDOUINS WATER EXPERTS z208
Survival-experts study the methods of Bedouins with their amazing sixth sense to lead them to sources of water.
z209 Morning and evenings, for instance, they listen to tee twittering of birds to locate where the birds get their drink. or find water holes by watching the direction in which birds are flying or by following animals trails. Flocks of birds circling over one spot, excepting vultures, usually indicate a drinking place in the desert.
z210
Of course the water there is not always pure , a stench of sh++ is almost sick. -fart smell? But his thirst was greater than his disgust. He had no iodine to disinfect water nor anything to make a fire with and boil it, so he drank it and was none the worse. I should point out, that he should have dug a hole nearby (9 feet) and let the water seep through thus safer in some ways. 9 feet would also get rid of water contaminated by radiation. 2!
z211 Dense clouds of flies swarming over a place in the desert show Bedouins where there was water only a short while before and they almost always find it worth digging there.
z212 Bedouins have discovered fairly large supplies of water either on the edge of a desert very near salt lakes or in the middle of deep dune valleys. Rain water collects there, seeps into the ground and settles between different layers of soil.
z213 If, while digging, they hit upon wet sand with a dry layer underneath it, it is a sign that the water has already drained off farther downhill or evaporated in which case they start digging again in a lower lying spot.
z214 Almost every desert has wadis, where sometimes water is still found only a few feet under a surface which is apparently bone dry. Of course, there is often no more than a layer of mud left, but thirsty people have pressed it into a cloth and drunk the water unharmed. Those who died from it never told their stories.
AFRICAN BUSHMEN z215 They dig a small hole in the mud, stick a suction pipe into it, then suck the moisture out of the ground drop by drop. A grass filter stops any sand getting into the bottom of the pipe. Water not needed at once is stored in blown-out ostrich eggs in which quite a large amount can be carried.
z216 If water tastes very soapy or salty, it may be poisonous. In the Gobi Desert for instance, there are springs which contain alkali. In Arizona several springs contain arsenic and a spring in the Sahara contains so much chlorine that it corrodes clothes.
WHERE TO FIND WATER IN ROCKY SOILS z217 Water easily disintegrates limestone and digs caverns which is where you will find springs and water sweating.
LAVA ETC. z218 Because of its porosity, lava retains much water, so you will find springs along valleys which crosses old lava flows. When a dry canyon cuts across a sandstone or gritstone layer, there is water which sweats on its walls. -2! In a region rich in granite, dig a hole in the green grass and you will discover water coming up. -1!
IN SOFT SOILS z219 Water is ordinarily more abundant and easier to discover in soft than in rocky soils. The phreatic sheets often come to surface in valleys and slopes. The springs and sweating are found in the high level line of the river waters after those have retracted away.
z220
Before digging to find water, try to discover the signs which indicates its presence. The bottom of a valley, at the foot of a sharp slope, a corner of vegetation which has sheltered a spring during rainy season, a low forest and sea shores, are among many places where the hydrostatic level lies under the surface. -dowsing?.
z221 There is no need to dig deeply in order to find water. Above the level of the phreatic sheet, there are small streams and ponds. However, those waters are contaminated and dangerous even when far away from any civilization. Example: Springs below towns.
ON MOUNTAINS z222 Dig in dry spring beds; water often hides under the gravel. Mountain slopes usually hide springs at their feet. 1!
OTHER SOURCES OF SUPPLY z223 Creosote plants, Willows, Elder Berry, Salted Herbs grow only where water is near the surface.
1! By a starry night, one can with a handkerchief mop up and gather up to 1 quart of water per hour from damp soils where you see flies.
INSECTS, BIRDS AND ANIMALS INDICATORS OF WATER z224 Bees in an area are a certain sign of water. Rarely will you find a hive of wild bees more than 3 or 4 miles from fresh water. A bee flies a mile in 12 minutes.
ANTS z225 Many ants need water, so if you see a steady column of small black ants climbing a tree trunk and disappearing into a hole in a crotch, it is highly probable that you fill find a hidden reservoir of fresh water stored away there. This can be proved by dipping a long straw or thin stick down the hole into which the ants are going.
z226 If wet, then water is there. To get the water, do not on any account chop into the tree. If the hole is very small, enlarge it with your knife-point at the top. Make a mop by tying grass or a rag to a stick. Dip the mop into the water and squeeze into a container.
z227 Another method is to take a long hollow straw and suck the water you need from the reservoir. These natural tree reservoirs are very common in dry areas, and are often kept full by the dew which condensing on the upper branches of the tree, trickles down into the crotch and into the reservoir inside the tree. 2!!
z228 Water reservoirs are very common in the She-Oaks (casuarinas) and many species of Wattle.
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MASON FLIES z229 large, hornet-like creatures, building in an area, meens a few hundred yards from a soak of wet earth. see the mason fly hover and then suddenly drop to the ground. If you examine the place where she landed, you will find the soil is moist and that she is busy rolling a pellet of mud for 2! her building. By digging down a few inches or feet, you will find fresh water.
BIRD INDICATORS FINCHES z230 All finches are grain-eaters and water drinkers. In the dry belts, if you see a colony of finches, you can be certain that you are near water, probably a hidden spring or permanent soak.
WILD PIGEONS z231 indicats water. grain and seed eaters, spend the day out on the plains feeding and before dusk, make for a water hole, drink their fill and fly slowly back to their nest. manner of flying will tell you the direction of water supply. 2!
If flying low and swift, meenz to water, but if from tree to tree and slow, they are returning from drinking their fill and vulnerable to birds of prey.
GRAIN EATERS z232 and most ground-feeders require water, tracks on the ground, meenz water within a few miles of your location. parrots are not reliable indicators.
CARNIVORES BIRDS z233 get their moisture from flesh, not reliable water-drinkers. Nor does living birds indicate drinkable water to humans.
MAMMALS z234 unless a regular trail, not be sure of animal trails. but some never travel far from water. Example: A fresh track of wild pigs or rooster or grazing animals, whose habit is to drink at dawn or dusk. do follow these trails.
FROGS ETC. z235 Frogs, salamanders, weevil charancons always look for a damp place to rest, dig under them, water points, even springs.
REPTILES z236 reptiles are independent, no water. They get what they need from 2! dew.
WATER FROM VEGETABLE SOURCES z237 Roots and branches of many trees contain sufficient free-flowing fluid 2! to relieve thirst? collect by breaking the roots or branches into 3 feet lengths,standing these in a trough of bark, fluid drains to the container.
z238 In some plants the amount of stored water is truly unbelievable. The water will gush out literally when the plant is cut. 2! WARNING!: THESE VEGETABLE 'DRINKING-WATERS' go bad in 24 HOURS. The fluid starts to ferment or go bad if stored, dangerous to drink. The nature of the plant, if judged by its foliage, is no guide for the drinkability of the fluid which is its sap.
z239 example, Eucalyptus leaves are heavily with oils of Eucalyptus, poisonous to human beings, but contain a drinkable fluid, collected from branches or roots, free from essential oils no taint. roots measure from 12 to 25 metres (39 to 82 feet), crawling under low depth. Pull them off, remove the bark, and the sap will sweat at both ends, where you put containers. The Liana or Monkey ropes of tropical regions are abundant source of water.
z240 precautions and danger signs of vegetable fluids: milky or red or colored in any way is dangerous to drink, and to the skin. Many of the milky saps, except those of the ficus family which contain latex or a natural rubber, are extremely poisonous. -use for darts? 2!except the Barrel cactus USA.
z241 The milky sap of many weeds can poison the skin and form bad sores, and if allowed to get into the eyes, cause blindness. With all vegetable sources of fluid, even though the water itself is clear, taste it first and if quite or almost tasteless or flavorless, it is safe to drink. 1!
z242 For vegetable sources of water in arid areas, best obtained by scratching up the surface roots. discovered close to the ground and if cut close to the tree, may be lifted and pulled, each root yielding from 10 to 20 feet. These MUST be cut in 3-4 feet lengths for draining.
z243 Many persons failed to get the precious liquid to flow just because they did not break or cut the stalk or root into lengths. Unless these breaks are made, the fluid can not flow and the conclusion is that the root, branch or vine is without moisture. 2!
z244 In general, water is more plentiful from plants in gullies than on ridges. And the flow is wasted if the roots are broken into sections and NOT CUT. Cutting tends to bruise and seal the capillary channels.
DEW COLLECTION z245 where no trees, collect dew-moisture from the grass to preserve life. tie rags or tufts of fine grass round the ankles and walk through the herbage before the sun has risen, squeezing the moisture collected by the rags into a container. Many explorers saved their life that way. Pig-face and Ice plant and Pig weed contain large drinkable moisture.
WATER ON SEA COAST z246 along the sea coast by digging behind the wind blown sand hills which back most ocean beaches. sand hills trap rain water and it floats on top of the heavier salt water which filters in from the ocean. Sand hill wells must be only deep enough to uncover the top inch or 2 of water. SAND WELLS: If dug deeper, salt water will be encountered and the water from the well will be undrinkable. water in those wells rises and falls slightly with the tides. COMPLETELY RELIABLE SOURCES OF WATER ALL OVER THE WORLD.
z247 When digging, it is necessary to rivet the sides of the well with brushwood, otherwise the sand will fall into the well. On coastal areas where cliffs fall into a sea, careful search along the lower edges of the cliff will generally disclose soaks or small springs. These, follow a fault 2! in the rock formation and are evident by a lush growth of ferns and mosses.
z248 I found that near the cliff, at the bottom of them where you find fallen rocks meeting the sand beach, dig there, not too close to those rocks, you will find water about 1 foot down. a perpetual source of water. MAKE SURE you rivet the side also and just cover the hole with some planks or drift board and mark it well so that it keeps animals away, for sand will cover it fast after a while from the nearby sand hill. I survived on them for 5 months on a deserted island, Brion Island, QC.
SEA MOISTURE FROM FISH FLESH z249
when no fresh water is available, comes from flesh of the fish. diced and the small portions of flesh are placed cotton cloth and the moisture wrung out. not excessively salty and can sustain life for a long period.
CONDENSING SALT WATER 2! -apply concept to a dew-collector z250
condense sea water without equipment and obtain fresh water. A coolamon 2! is made or alternatively a hole is scraped in the ground and lined. The salt water is put into this hole. A fire is built and stones are put into it to heat up. These, when hot, are put into the salted water which soon boils and then water vapor is soaked up by a towel or thick mat of cloth.
In time, this will become literally saturated and may be wrung out, yielding a fair quantity of fresh drinkable water. Once the cloth is cool 1! the collection of water vapor is fairly rapid.
MOISTURE CONDENSATION IN ARID AREAS 1! z251
This still produces about 50% more water between 8pm. and 8 am. than during the day, but it still works day and night. Don't depend to drink this water immediately for it takes 24 hours before collecting 1 quart (1 litre) of water sometimes.
z252 made from a piece of light plastic sheeting about 4 feet (122cm) square. A clean garbage bag which has been fully cut and open will do. A hole is dug in the ground in a sunny position. The hole should be about 3 feet (1 meter) across and 15" to 18' (38cm - 46cm) deep or deeper if possible.
z253 The site should be preferably in a moist ground, a depression in a creek bed is ideal if one can be found. If green material such as shrubs or succulent herbage is nearby, the hole should be lined with this and the materials packed down. It may be necessary to weigh down the material with a few flat stones. In centre of hole and in deepest part, a container is placed.
z254 Lay the sheet of plastic across and covering the hole using some of the earth scooped from the hole to 1! seal the edges lightly.
Place a stone in the centre of the upper side of the plastic sheet above the center to weigh it down to just over the container below.
z255 Moisture in the soil and in the greenery placed in the hole will be drawn off by the heat of the sun and condense on the underside of the plastic. The condensed moisture will collect into droplets, coalesce and trickle down the underside to the lowest point where it drops off into the container.
z256 If the underside of the plastic sheet is slightly roughened with fine sandpaper or similar fine abrasive such as a piece of finely grained stone, the droplets will coalesce and run off more cleanly than if the underside is absolutely smooth.
z257 Body waste such as urine, waste food, moist tea leaves etc. can be put into the hole. The pure moisture only is condensed. From 1 - 4 pints of water a day can be collected by this method.
z258 If the stay in the area is likely to be of some duration, the top few inches of the hole can be removed and fresh green material replaced and the still will continue to work when this is done.
FRESH STILL SITES MAY BE NECESSARY EVERY 2ND OR 3RD DAY.
z259 This still can also bring you food! Since water under the plastic will attract snakes and small games which will crawl under the still cone but can not go out. tube-straw Drink from the bottom bucket without having to remove it and stopping the recuperation.
OTHER WAYS TO FIND WATER:
z260 EXPERIENCE WITH A OIL LAMP -damp power? 1!
At night, dig a hole 2 feet deep, cover the bottom with very dry wood and place an oil lamp which has very little oil (just so the wick is imbibed, light it up and place it on the wood floor.
Cover up the hole with branches and wait till morning to see if your oil lamp is still burning. If so, then there is water at a certain depth. Dig and you shall find it. Why is that?
z261 Because the dampness of the under water sheet increases the air condensation furnishing more oxygen and thus, makes the oil last longer which keeps the flame to your oil lamp. If however it has died, then there is a lack of dampness. The oil alone has not sufficed for the night's duration having burned faster than the air which was too dry.
WATER FROM A LANTERN z262 If no other means, any metal container and lighted lantern may be used to obtain water. Remove one end of the container and submerge the closed end in a foot or more of salt water. Place the lighted lantern inside the container on the bottom. Cover the open top, allowing only enough air to enter to keep the lantern burning. The heat will cause moisture to form on the inside container. This can be soaked up with a rag and squeezed into a cup.
EXPERIENCE WITH A WOOL BALL z263 do as for the oil lamp but replace it by a wool ball. Put a very dry wool ball on the dry wood and cover the hole. The following morning, look at your ball and press it strongly, the quantity of water will tell you if its worth digging.
RAIN WATER z264 Always safe to drink and easy to collect with any tarp, but unfortunately there are three exceptions. A chemical, atomic or bacteriological warfare would render this water unsafe unless filtered and boiled. Man has created its own worst problems.
WATER IN COLD CLIMATE z265 Clean snow can be eaten any time one is thirsty. not to much at once. eating snow when extremely cold has the tendency to dehydrate the body and provoke chill. Let it melt slowly into your mouth in small quantity.
wilderness ice cream: milk sugar flavor such as chocolate and stir in light snow till taste and texture are.
z266 Snow drawback is that a considerable amount is needed to equal a glass of water. Packed snow gives more water of course, ice even more.
z267 Particular care has to be taken when melting snow to not burn the pot. Melt the snow until the bottom of the pot is safely covered with several inches of water before adding more snow. Use any tool to pack the snow as it melts to avoid the bottom of your pot drying up and burning. This nuisance is compensated for by the fact that snowfall makes water readily available throughout wilderness.
z268 One needs a lot more water in cold weather than one expects, because the kidneys have to take over much of the process of elimination otherwise done by the sweat glands.
ICE and FRESH WATER z269 This is the water supply of many an Arctic establishment but the tasks of cutting and melting is sufficiently inconvenient that when it is feasible, most prefer to chop or chisel holes in the lake or stream to get water.
z270 Such holes must be covered to discourage their freezing. Also it is the preferable method since you waste no fuel. To obtain water you need twice the amount of fuel to melt snow than if you melt ice for the same quantity of water.
z271 To break ice, it is better to use a pointed tool. First, hit a few light strokes to create a split then a hard blow to break an ice piece the length desired. On a great lake or long river, cut toward an already existing split to avoid making only small bits.
z272 If dign a hole in a lake or river to obtain water, avoid splashing.
First, start to axe all around your hole, make sure not to puncture the ice all the way to the water,til hole is deep and wide enough for your bucket.
z273 Then when near water on all sides, give a sharp blow to break the ice completely. If you don't do this, the water will seep into the hole and you will get dangerously wet while trying to enlarge it. However, as far as purity is concerned, ice and the water obtained from melting ice differ in no respect from the water originally frozen.
...Go To Page 4
SALT WATER ICE BECOMES FRESH z274 the ocean is salt, so ice of salt water must also be salted. Wrong! Dr. V. Stefansson notes, the sea ice becomes fresh during the period intervening between its formation and the end of the first summer thereafter.
z275 If, during freezing weather, you are ever in a position where you have no other source of water but salted water, you'll want to catch small amounts of the available brine and allow ice to form in it. The slush and any remaining liquid should then be removed. -2! learn about refridgeration?
if salt, why not other impurites? Ocean ice loses its salt so rapidly that ice over 1 year old is nearly fresh.
z276 Melted hollowed or otherwise will usually be found to contain ample fresh water. Salted ice is grey and opaque whereas unsalted ice is bluish and crystal colored.
FINDING DRINKING WATER ON OCEAN z277 Rain water will often furnish drinking water at sea. When it starts to fall, Dew is heavy enough is some areas to merit being caught in a sail or tarpaulin stretched with sufficient sag for condensation to collect.One may beoout of sight of land and yet so near the mouth of some great river that even far at sea the water will still be fresh.
OBTAINING WATER FROM FISH z278 They can be caught in many different ways and in some waters many fish will even leap freely aboard at night especially if a light is shown to attract them. Sea snakes which, unlike eels, have no scales are edible but have poisonous fangs. 10 times worse than the land ones. Unless the fish has ordinary scales leave it alone.
WATER FROM FISH z279 Water can be obtained from freshly caught fish in several different ways.
The most fundamental method is to divide the fish into small portions and chew each of these thoroughly spitting all solid matter before going oo the next morsel. The fish can also be sectioned and twisted within a cloth, the freed juice is either sucked or caught.
z280 One primitive way of dealing with a large fish is to hack holes in its side and allow moisture from the lymphatic vessels to ooze into these. takes several hours to obtain 1/2 litre of this liquid, so be patient while squeezing fish.
BODY WATER PRESERVATION z281 on the other side. make what you drink last. You must not sweat. Your body exits heat either by evaporation or sweating. As soon as the body fluid volume lowers, sweating diminishes, the body temperature rises and you exhaust quickly. 6 degrees increase in your normal body temperature is of lethal consequences. Even though you seem to be less hot when you remove clothing; you also quickly lose your organic fluid that way. If you stay clothed; you will prevent the heat to penetrate and this will also slow down the evaporation.
z282 YOU MUST BOTH DRINK AND AVOID SWEATING TO AVOID DEHYDRATION.
a man spends 3,000 calories a day and suvvive on 500 calories per day without bad effects on his organism.
z283 in condition of great fatigue or cold exposure, one has to eat more to maintain his body temperature. Water is more than food. (2 cups per day minimum. Once exposed to desert heat, one needs a minimum of 3.8 litres (1 gallon) of water per day. to cover 30km (18.64 miles) as long as the sweating is well-controlled and the moving is done at night. During the day, it would give you 15km (9.32 miles)
WHAT TO DO IF WATER IS SCARCE z284 drink as much as we reasonably can before quitting the sourceoof supply. Fill up before abandoning ship. If in dry country; drink a lot while and just before leaving the water hole . 1! water comes first.
z285 We repeat that an unbelievable amount of water is exuded 1! through the skin's pores and the rate of perspiration is markedly increased both by heat and by exertion. The need for water intake can be much lessened by your keeping as quiet as possible and as comfortably cool as one can.
z286 Keeping the clothing wet will help at sea in hot weather although it should be rinsed in the latter part of the afternoon to prevent collecting too much salt. Allow to dry out before evening if the nights are chilly.
z287 If in desert without sufficient water stay as relaxed and cool as possible. Travel at dusk, night and dawn. If on flat shelterless desert, scoop a narrow pit to lie in while the sun is blaring down.
z288 The 2! utmost shade will be obtained if this trench extends East and West. Two or 3 feet of depth can result in as much as 30 degree or more difference in temperature between its shadowy bottom and ground level.
z289 leave some sign of your presence in case help passes near by. a shirt.
WHEN WATER IS REPLENISHED z290 When water has missed for a long while, you MUST NOT DRINK A GREAT DEAL AT ONCE; once you find it. It will cause nausea beside the body will not retain it, thus wasting much of it later.
MISCELLANEOUS TIPS:
WATER FROM AN OLD HAND PUMP z291 Many have seen those old water hand pumps but few REMEMBER how to pump. water must be added to the upper cup at the base of the crank. The reason: The addition of a cup or two of water will create the suction needed to pump the water. If you don't you will pump air and think it dry. Every morning or after a couple days without use, this same process must be repeated in order to 1! create the vacuum. So better leave a jug nearby which contains enough water to get the machine going.
-this file continues on dhu7-06b.txt
8-06bxx4.txt - - - - v8-4-06 6pm dehumidify info study:25-26 downloads
this is file-two of a two-file guide. split for small computers.
continues...
WATER PRESERVATION AT SEA TIPS z292 1! savING your body fluids are equally important as drinking water.
1 If you don't have water to drink, don't eat. Food needs water to be digested, especially protein.
2 In hot countries, avoid sweating as much as possible so you will avoid losing body water faster.
3 Dampen your clothes in the sea, wring them and wear them. Take advantage of any cooling wnnd. if a salt crust, remove it? 2! with a cloth.
4 Stay in the shadows as much as possible.
5 Sleep and rest as much. to minimum the loss of body fluid.
6 Prevent if you can sea sickness; there are pills for it.
7 Don't drink any alcohol, for it increases the dehydration 1! process.
8 If you smoke, you will increase your thirst. If you must smoke, make it in the evening or at night.
9 To remove the thirst temptation, suck on a button, it will make you salivate more.
FINDING WATER z293 a geodetic map will tell. Even so, be aware where water is most likely to be by knowing natures signs, habits. Almost any downhill country, be it a long slow valley or a deep gorge, will lead to it. These natural formations developed through water erosion and the sculpture tells the tale.
z294 keep your eyes open for a change not only in terrain but in vegetation as well. If you see a crooked line of Willows or Willow like trees.
z295 The mountain ahead is bare, with no water or greenery in sight. One side comes down steeply to a heavy rock formation; the other side slopes gently down to a valley and gently up oo another mountain. Head for the sloping side rather than the steep escarpment. It has a much slower run off larger surface area, and thus a greater likelihood of retained water.
COTTONWOODS z296 same purpose as willows. A chain of cottonwood indicates a river bed. if it's dry, examine the ground by one of the largest and most ancient of the cottonwoods. On the inside bank of the old river's curve, you will usually find a small pool of water. if ground moisture dig down, find seepage.
z297 Remember, 1! it does not usually pay to dig for water.
z288 With the amount of energy used, the moisture lost in sweat usually far exceeds that gained from the hole you have dug.
z299 Any lush vegetation in arid terrain indicates water in one form or another. Birds such as Doves or Blackbirds, in flocks on the ground or quail in any quantity, are other signs of a water source nearby.
z300 You will need 2 quarts (2 liters) a day under average conditions, but in the desert or during periods of heavy activity, this raises to 4 quarts (4 liters) or more per person per day.
IF WATER BY THE BARREL z301 If water is plentiful, as well as wood, make sure you always have some hot water boiling or close to the flame to keep it hot. REMEMBER, to sterilize water, it takes 10 minutes boiling no matter what some may say. Be safe.
THIRSTY z302 Drink when thirsty often and in small amounts. DON'T ATTEMPT TO RATION LIMITED QUANTITY OF WATER, LIFE WILL NOT BE PROLONGED. DON'T gulp water, swish first mouthful around mouth, swallow slowly, otherwise you will be sick and vomit this precious water. 1!
SURVIVAL TIME CHART NO WATER: Some examples of expected survival times are:
50'F (10'C) without water, with minimum exertion: life expectancy is 14 days, with 1 gallon water: 16 days. z303
120'F (49'C) - under same conditions: 3 days; with 1 gallon water: 4 days.
Those are rough estimates for adults. For children and sick folks, the estimate is about 1/3 less. As you see, water is more important than food. Limit food and salt intake when water is limited, especially protein foods which absorb much more water from your body.
FINDING WATER and PURIFYING z304 Under hot, dry conditions where little possibility of finding water exists, the search for will cause greater loss than amount of water found. It is best to stay in shade, move as little as possible and wait for help. Back to Page 1
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wiki obtaining water, natural, unatural sources z305
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Guide_to_Wilderness_Survival/Obtaining_Water
If demand is not met, dehydration will result, leading to heat exhaustion, heatstroke and death within days.
if Natural water is available: z306 often contains organisms that cause infectious disease, most notably Giardia lamblia. three ways to remove this threat and make natural water potable.
1 boiled over campfire or portable stove. At high altitudes, water boils at a lower temperature, so the boil must be maintained for several minutes to kill the microorganisms.
2 filtered, Water purifiers differ widely. If visibly dirty, pour through a clean cloth to remove large particles to avoid clogging the purifier.
3 Certain chemicals: dilute chlorine solution, antimicrobial additives. Some leave an unpleasant flavor that may be masked with powdered drink mix.
If natural water not available: z307 The evaporation still, evapo_still.jpg Water may also be obtained from the soil or from plant matter.
2! needs only four items: a shovel, a sturdy sheet of transparent plastic, a cup, and a piece of flexible plastic tubing long enough to reach the cup
Begin by digging a hole with sloping sides in the shape of the sheet of plastic, but slightly smaller. Avoid digging in hot day-time, Sink cup in the middle of the hole. Place one end of the tube in the cup, run the other end to the outside of the hole, and place the sheet of plastic over. Weigh down the sides of the plastic sheet, or use stakes, and a stone on sheet over the cup below. z308 will produce continuously. The sheet creates a greenhouse effect in the still, accelerating the natural evaporation of water from the soil. When the water vapor hits the plastic sheet, it will condense and drip down into the cup. The tubing may be used to drink from the cup without disturbing the still. For added effectiveness, use a second cup to pour any available fluids, such as urine, greens, flesh, biomass, anything moist, into the pit.
z309 1! vegetation-still is easier than digging-method, uses just a plastic bag. Gather vegetation: big leaves, cacti stripped of their thorns, etc. to mostly fill the bag. Mash it to break through the leaves' outer water-resistant cuticle. a greenhouse effect will cause water to evaporate from the leaves. It condenses on the plastic and run into the bottom of bag. will pick up chemicals from the leaves. a strong leafy flavor, may include toxins, make sure not to gather poisonous plants. filter with wood charcoal?
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1-7.htm teachers links ! Survival Still + links z310 student will explain a simple way to desalinate water using solar energy. -html version of http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/ed/use/3_survivalstill.pdf.
my notes:
explain capillary water in soil and a solarstill: draws water from the soil. Heat is
first added to a liquid to evaporate it and produce a gas or vapor, then heat is removed from the vapor to condense it back to a liquid. Soil always contains some moisture, but it is often in the form of capillary water.
Capillarity is the force that exists between soil particles and water molecules. This force prevents all the water in the soil from draining down through the soil. The water that remains as a thin coating around the soil particles is known as capillary water.
z311 A solar still allows this capillary water to be recovered and purified in the process. By creating a closed space with a transparent cover material, a greenhouse effect is produced which causes the temperature inside the space to rise. The trapped heat is absorbed by the soil and causes its moisture to vaporize. how to make a survival still in the desert. z312
http://www.desertusa.com/mag98/dec/stories/water.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_12584_make-solar-still.html
class descriptions of projects http://energywhiz.com/ , 1! a change from one phase of matter to another involves a gain or loss of energy.
Definitions:
Survival Still z313
capillary water - the thin film of water that coats the soil particles even in the driest soil
condensation - a reduction to a denser form as from steam to water
conduction - the movement of heat or cold through materials that are solid
convection - the movement of heat or cold through air or liquids
desalinization - process of removing salt and other chemicals and minerals from water
evaporation - process of changing a liquid into vapor
radiation - the way we receive heat from the sun each day. The energy is emitted in the form of
waves/particles, and can move from one object to another without heating the area in between.
solar still - a device that uses solar energy to evaporate a liquid
thermal energy - energy that heats something
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z314 Couran Cove luxery and nrg indepenece ideas mix, nothin is wasted. my notes: 350 rooms in Couran Cove, powered by liquefied petroleum gas or LPG, and solar energy. energy use 70% less than resorts of the same size.
$1 million a year savings in operating costs. saved $1 million just to build it because of efficiency measures, plus 80% of its greenhouse gas emissions. LPG is ferried to the island and then stored in huge tanks. converted into electricity at the resorts power plant. Water from the resorts swimming pools helps cool the generators and, nturn, heats the pools.
individual solar panels in cabins providing hot water. Cardboard and paper is shredded for compost and organic waste from the resort's four restaurants goes to the worm farm. z315
We feed the worms diced up kitchen waste chopped up and thrown across the top of the beds, and after they've eaten that we can water the beds and get worm liquid out of the base of it as well as collect their casts, which is used as a soil conditioner and fertilizer. z316
All linens is laundered on the mainland to avoid putting detergent into the water treatment system. Chambermaids transport the supplies to rooms on bicycles. or battery-operated golf carts. All buildings structured to take advantage of sun and natural breeze, insulated with wool and electrical goods from lights to the fridge are energy efficient. family can view Each days use water, gas and electricity used on the tv. we've got four different types of worms. We've got the blue, the red, the tiger and the African night-Crawlers.
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comonchaka, chili: fog-fences (works only by bodies of water or fog?)
PABLO OSSES, z317 The collectors look like oversized volleyball nets. fog passes through them, moisture is trapped in the mesh then combined into drops of water running into gutters, and then into pipes leading downhill to users.
the world's largest fog collection project started, expanding to nearly 100 large collector nets, 11,000 liters of water a day to Chungungo, fishing village. z318
residents now depend once again on government water tankers. They say the fog collection project was good and they wish they had it back.
It was a hurricane. and we didn't have the 'money' to repair them.
STRIEKER: But some say the real problem was that after the aid agency finished with it, no one took responsibility for maintaining the project.
The community never felt that it was their own,
z319 The potential depends on fog, how much water it contains, the speed and direction of the wind: the right topography, like high hills. you can see here, in the mornings with all the fog, it could produce good results, OSSES: If you don't keep the system working, you don't have water.The comonchaka (ph) keeps rolling in, filled with potential, but it will not be captured without effort, or taken for granted. -end-
a water source that's completely transparent?
z320 natures most essential ingredients for light: water.
on island of Tenner Reef: stands Charlie Paton's labor and vision, a greenhouse that converts seawater into fresh water in order to grow vegetables. z321
a darkened studio to best see the process work, he first demonstrates the material used on the roof of the greenhouse. It reflects green light that transmits red and blue light, which is used by plants for photosynthesis.
CHARLIE PATON, LIGHT WORKS: This is essentially our heat trap, so underneath here would be the plants, and the sun would be shining through, and we trap the heat in the upper canopy and let the light through for the plants below.
And then what happens to the heat?
z322 PATON: The heat gets ducted through the greenhouse and is used to evaporate more seawater, so we have a material which is a cardboard, and we run seawater down this, and if you blow hot air across it, it evaporates the seawater and so you get pure water vapor coming off the other side, as well as cool air. And the salt and the salt water just flow on down the tube and collect at the bottom.
z323 SWEENEY: At the far end of his workshop, Charlie has developed the condensers which make the fresh water, but first he had to find the right kind of plastic surface which would condense the optimum amount of water. PATON: It's a trick thing. Water condenses on some surfaces much better than it does on others, and it's not obvious which are the best, and so we've been doing some experiments and tests with these different types of plastics and different coatings, to see which one gives us the most amount of water.
! z324 This is similar to the Namibian (UNINTELLIGIBLE) beetle's back. This is polythene, which is normally very waxy. This is a very sort of smooth and shiny surface, and we've coated it here with a material which makes it absorbent, which in fact reduces the surface tension. I can show you that. If I dip it in water, you will see that the coated part has become like blotting paper. It's completely wetted, whereas the water runs off in droplets off the uncoated part. SWEENEY:this is what you used to then.
z325 PATON: That's what we're using to develop the correct coating for the plastic for the heat-exchanger.
SWEENEY: The water-maker idea came from an experience he had while on a bus trip in Morocco 15 years ago. z326
Awaking from a nap, Charlie discovered the towel on which he had rested his head was soaking wet. The reason, condensation. The glass window had been chilled by the outside rain and had cooled the hot, humid air inside the bus below its dew point. This is turn caused droplets of water to form on the inside of the window. from his London studio, Charlie labored to develop his idea into a greenhouse which could produce fresh water from seawater.
z327 SWEENEY: In a world where already 30 percent of the planet is desert and where most of its population lives close to the sea, the potential for alleviating hunger, overcoming drought and helping people make a living is indeed great. paton: the answers are there in nature all around us. It's fantastic. The more you investigate it, the more fantastic it becomes. -end- Aired February 9, 2003 - 10:00:00 ET edition of GLOBAL CHALLENGES. See you next time. TO ORDER VIDEOTAPES AND TRANSCRIPTS OF CNN INTERNATIONAL brain-washing, PLEASE CALL 800-CNN-NEWS OR www.fdch.com
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z328 very contra2 what i knew. wiki - solaroof.com?living structures
the SWG has contradictions that decrease the effectiveness of the total system. use the Bubble Tech, and give equal attention to 'solar controlled environment system' and the Liquid-Cooling process. see more projects implementing Sola-Roof concept, able to capture, use and reject the solar thermal 'waste' energy. is also a process for producing clean water in large quantity. 2!! z329
buildings overheat in the sun. normal first step to restore comfort is to open windows and any ventilation that will let out the warm air that is 'trapped' inside. The trouble: the mass of the building: all the material:walls, roof area, floors, construction, become overheated. cannot cool these building components directly. circulating cool air through the building takes away a little of the thermal gain - but usually the building will only really cool down at night - when the source of the overheating is removed and the air available is cooler.
z330 The alternate way to cool the building is to directly cool the temperature of a transparent-Building-Envelope comprised of multiple layers of low wieght (almost no mass) transparent coverin materials. The Sola Roof process, uses a water-based Liquid-Cooling-process. When the building roof and walls, which form the Building Envelope, are cooled down directly to the dew point temperature relative to the humidity and air temperature of the atmosphere within the building, then the air will not overheat provided that there is a leaf-canopy within the building that will absorb the majority of the solar radiation. Due to the Transpiration-Condensation-mechanism. This Liquid-Cooling-process can control the interior humidity and temperature very exactly, no need for ventilation required in conventional buildings.
DISCUSSION z331 how to 'collect solar heat' using Sola Roof, a Q+A section? for 'heat collection' is possible, but low value to using the bubbles as a solar heat collection system, not effective way to use the-system.
z332 To provide capture of solar-thermal-gain it is much better to use the Liquid Solar process that operates by spaying (or distributes with preforated hose or other methods a 'cooling liquid' film over the inner skin. This cooling liquid can be the soap solution. With your large liquid thermal mass and since you are placing the soap liquid tank into the larger water reservoir plus using pipe coils within the water tank that the soap liquid will flow through - then you will have a very good set up to use the soap solution as the cooling liquid. Your soap solution will have the same temperature as the large water thermal mass. It will also transfer thermal gain to the larger thermal mass and so will be the 'working fluid' for the controlled environment system.
z333 Circulating the cooling l iquid will result in cooling the inner skin to a dew point temperature and the plants in the greenhouse will produce transpiration that will condense on the inner skin. The plant transpiration convert the solar radiation to 'non-sensible' thermal energy that becomes sensibe, thermal energy that would warm the inner skin except that the cooling liquid is able to absorb this heat energy quickly and take it away to the large thermal mass system, where the temperature will change very slowly. Thus the inner skin will remain relatively cool and always 10C or so cooler than the air within the greenhouse.
The temperature will gradually increase by a few degrees over the whole day. In the Photo section of the Forum see Nelson Thermal Data?: -link-
z334 Now at night the bubbles give up slowly this thermal energy that is collected during the day. The inner skin remains at the temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system because the soap solution is thermally coupled to the reservoir temperature with the soap liquid in the coils of flexible non-preforated agricultural drainage pipe. Then when the bubbles are renewed at intervals during a cold night the inner skin is always at the temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system, while the outer layers of bubbles near the exterior skin give up the stored thermal energy captured by the liquid cooling process. We do not need any 'hot' thermal storage. Cool to slightly warm is fine for even the coldest climate. Cool bubbles provide better insulation. Cool liquid collects the solar energy. Hot or warm liquid will not collect efficiently and also - most importantly - cannot condense the transpired moisture; cannot sustain the closed environment for growing with CO 2 enriched atmosphere; cannot regulate the temperature of the building within the limits for optimum plant growth; and will emmit thermal radiation onto the leaf canopy which is the opposite of a 'natural growing environment' where the plants see a cold sky.
z335 All previous greenhouses show the plant leaf canopy a 'hot sky' because the radiative temperature of a glazing (or glazing and shade canopy system is not controlled as it is with the Sola Roof process. In fact attempts to provide 'shade' from the sun will normally reduce the Photosynthesis Active Radiation and increase the thermal radiation. The bubbles, when used for shading can remain cool because we can regenerate them from our soap solution which is at the cool temperature of the Liquid Thermal Mass system. But most importantly, during the winter or in hot sunny climate, the cooling liquid is also continuously chilling the inner skin and absorbing direct solar IR. The solar IR is absorbed about 20% by the thin film cooling and the bubble shading can absorb nearly 100 % while still eemaining at a cool temperature because of the dynamic process. I expect that most of you on this list will understand that water has a high capacitance and that our thermal transfer rate can handle the solar thermal gain rate and can operate as a steady state system if there is additionally an energy rejection mechanism to keep the Cooling Liquid at a constant cool temperature.
z336 But the typical process is to use a Liquid Thermal Mass of a volume that will provide a temperature swing from day to night. Let me emphasize that only the liquid components of the thermal mass are able to provide the capacitance and transfer that is necessary. The solid components of the thermal mass are not actively engaged and have almost no interaction with the thermal process. Therefore making special effort to link up more solid thermal mass has no payback. You have the soil and ground or floor of the greenhouse and I would not spend (waste money to link to rock beds, soil or subsoil, or build any massive structural elements into the greenhouse unless it is part of a normal footing, floor or wall system that you would have in any case. Placing pipes into such subsoil or footings can be a big problem, because leaks are difficult to find or repare.
z337 I say this after building a 12,000 foot flooded rock bed floor as a thermal mass in the Calgary project that had continuous problems with leakage. I love the shallow pond growing systems that provide all the thermal mass that a project could need. Liquid thermal mass in fabric tubing below benches is a good system. Below grade reservoirs and tower tanks are also an option. Putting the soap tank within another tank and using flexible fabric tanks is also practical and gives an immediate thermal exchange. I mostly use the the term 'thermal' rather than 'heat' so that we can get used to the idea of cool running systems that work just fine. Our surroundings need to be cool because we are 'hot bodies' - that is part of our synergy with the plants. They have a cooler temperature. How unlikely it would be if the plants in a multi canopy forest had a higher temperature then the animals! The plants themselves live in a relatively cool environment and are champions of rejecting waste thermal energy so that they and the atmosphere around them will not overheat.
z338 Biosystems and Biomimicry technology will run cool - while all our previous engineering concepts are dominated by high temperature and pressure. That is machine technology - fire, steam, the heat of a nucear reation - none of those concepts have a place in a biomimicry technology. Living systems operate at ambient temperature and humidity. This is why the combimation of solar, plants and cold water resources is so important. Cold water is as important to ambient energy systems as is solar radiation.
z339 in Sola Roof we use these concepts. the SWG has contradictions that decrease the effectiveness of the total system. We have a few people using the Bubble Tech and it is now a good time to give equal attention to the 'solar controlled environment system' and the Liquid Cooling process which is well integrated with the Bubble Tech system and I would like to see more projects that are implementing this important aspect of the Sola Roof concept so that our projects are able to capture, use and reject the solar thermal 'waste' energy. This is important because it also is a process for producing clean water in large quantity.
I hope that this shows how Sola Roof is a total concept for 'living structures'. -Rick trendmapper.com/charts/pages/solaroof-23062005-2873.html
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z340 2-12b.htm technical description + solaroof.org\gallery.htm link
Moderating the interior environment is a Liquid Thermal Mass system, using a water based Soap Solution reservoir, which may be thermally linked to a larger water thermal mass within the building and/or external to the building. The Soap Solution is pumped into the roof and wall Cavity Space of the Building Envelope. There, the Soap Solution is distributed as a Liquid Film? that flows over the Inner Cover? of the Building Envelope Sola Fabric where it absorbs solar energy gain from within the structure. when reading this tech nfo use Gallery-Album and Structure-Tech section The Liquid Solar Tech process actively controls the internal building environment, both cooling and dehumidifying so as to prevent overheating during the mid day hours. During winter days, this process, also referred to a Liquid Cooling, will capture Solar Thermal? gain and remove this energy to storage in the Liquid Thermal Mass.
z341 Mixing a surfactant concentrate into solution with water forms the Soap Solution which is the Working Fluid? of the Liquid Solar process. The Soap Solution, interacting in thermal exchange with the Liquid Thermal Mass, is pumped to the envelope of the building where, in the Cavity Space, it can be distributed for Liquid Cooling or used to generate high-expansion bubbles that completely fill the roof and/or wall Cavity Space. Thus, the glazing envelope is not a single thin sheet material, poorly shielding the interior from extreme outside climates, but rather is a thick envelope having a cavity space at times filled soap bubbles, like cells, hundreds of layers deep, providing cooling or warmth as may be required. During the day, insulating and shading may be obtained by generating bubbles that fill the roof cavity, which process we call Bubble Tech. This same process used at night has an insulation and (low-temperature thermal energy "heat" distribution function that utilizes the stored energy in our Liquid Thermal Mass System.
z342 good list of projects 7-8th grade, 2! loosens mind to ideas,
http://www.scienceproject.com/projects/index/intermed.asp
5. Pendulums- how can a period of a pendulum be increased? 9. Solar Furnace
16. How do compression and tension make things strong? 20. How can the strength of light be measured?- the effect on degradable materials 21. Which materials can be charged with static electricity?23. What affects light reflection?- refraction and diffraction of light? 26. Electric Motors- principles and factors effecting their efficiency 35. How is paint affected by temperature changes?- Elasticity of rubber; effect of glue. 44. Can water be magnetized? XX. A Projector (Make a slide projector 110. How is paint affected by temperature changes?111. How does temperature affect the elasticity of rubber? 112. How does temperature affect the strength or adherence of glue? 120. Effect of moisture on electrical resistance 130. Heat convection-131. Heat radiation-132. Heat conduction 5. Dew formation- how much is formed on a square meter for a period of time; account for variations8. Evaporation- Effect of temperature, wind, or humidity on the rate of evaporation?2! 10. Heat Retention- does fresh water hold heat longer than salt water? How does water compare to land and what effect does this have on the weather? What factors affect the cooling of land?11. Sunlight- how do different surfaces affect the amount of sunlight reflected and absorbed? Design a method of measuring how much sunshine is available each day.12. Humidity- can you collect the amounts of water in the air at different temperatures?15. Effects of Humidity- what happens to hair during periods of changing humidity? How does human hair compare to that of other animals? How do other materials compare in expansion and contraction. 3. Chemical reactions that produce energy or that require energy5. Effects of sunlight on rubber, ink, paper6. Effects of increased concentrations on the rate of chemical reactions7. Compare the PH levels in mouths of various animals and humans at different times in the day 8. Compare the surface tension of various liquids 9. Dealing with chemical spills from industry
10. Analyzing snow and rain for pollutants; samples from different locations11. Effects of temperature on density of gasescoming soon+
12. Effects of salt and other contaminants on rate of rusting 13. Growing crystals- factors that affect the rate and the size14. Can you obtain water from ink, vinegar, milk?15. What effects do different amounts of exercise have on the production of carbon dioxide in humans?16. Analyze soil samples for their components, ability to hold moisture, fertility and PH17. Does the amount of particle pollution vary with distance from a road, with location, with height. Determine types of particles found in pollution fallout 18. Catalysts- how they work and why; commercial applicants and problems24. How to make PH indicator using cabbage? 25. How Yogurt is made? Is it a chemical or biochemical reaction? 26. Effects of temperature on viscosity of oil (Quick 27. Chemical reactions coming soon+ 28. Brownian movement coming soon+ 29. Making salt water potable, removal of pollutants 30. Fruit Battery (Can you make electricity from fruits and chemicals?
BOTANY/ BIOLOGY z343
1. Germination - how monocots and dicots differ - the effects of heat, light, carbon dioxide, PH level, etc. on germination rate2. Photosynthesis - factors affecting the rate of photosynthesis (temperature, light intensity, water, carbon dioxide - part of light spectrum used in photosynthesis 3. Leaf - do the numbers and sizes of stomata vary with different plants - what happens if stomata are covered and why
10. The preferred PH level in the soil for various plantscoming soon+ 11. Determine the effects of various nutrients on plant growth 12. How does the amount of water affect plant growth? 13. How does the hours of sunlight affect the plant growth? 14. How does the strength of weed killer affect the plant growth? 15. How does the temperature affect the plant growth? 16. How do pollutants affect the plant growth? 17. How does PH level affect the plant growth? 18. Can plants live without Carbon Dioxide? 19. Can plants live without Oxygen? 20. What percentage of various plants are water? 21. Roots - how much water is used by different plants?22. Roots - what is the effect of temperature, sunlight, etc., on the use of water (transpiration23. Roots - how do different types of soils affect the ability of roots to anchor plants? 24. Roots - what factors encourage root growth and what is the effect of water, oxygen, soil type, minerals on root growth? 25. What is the effect of acid rain on plant growth? coming soon+
30. What conditions are favorable for: -fungus growth- E.G. yeast, mold, mildew diseases ? 31. What conditions are favorable for: -mushroom production? 47. Field Studies -types of bacteria found on the body.48. Field Studies -types of bacteria found in soil of different types 100. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting Blood Pressure 101. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting Heartbeat Rate 102. Circulatory System - Factors Affecting the rate of breathing 103. Circulatory System - Is there any relation between the blood pressure and the rate of heartbeat? 201. Make a Model of Plant or Animal cell. -pods! 1! 202. How big are the plant cells?
103. How big is a drop of water? Factors affecting the size of a drop in water based solutions.
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awg.htm: list of water subpumps + solar powered parts z344
Shurflo SubPump Lower Cost and features: Longer life, higher efficiency, smaller and lighter weight, easier to rebuild, all plastic construction prevents problems caused by minerals in water. now only 6 lbs.
Submersible DC Motor, Brushless -Pump Controller - An electronic device which varies the voltage and current of a PV array to match the needs of an
array-direct pump. Sling Pumps Pump water from streams without power Use the force of your river or creek to pump up to 4000 gallons per day and up to 82' of head. The force of the flowing water rotates the anchored pump and pushes air and water through the feeder hose into your storage tank. No gasoline or electricity required! Only one moving part. Also great for aerating fish ponds because pumped mixture is half water half air. The Guardian: Water Powered Sump Pump Eliminate basement flooding without electricity! This unique pump uses standard water pressure to keep your
basement dry even during a power failure. more...
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z345
bubbletech.htm uses equipment called Bubble Generators as the earth was?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof
Bubble Tech uses equipment called Bubble Generators which are positioned within the Cavity Space formed by the double layer transparent roof and/or wall. The Bubble Generators blow bubbles from a Soap Solution that rapidly fill the Cavity Space to dynamically control the building envelope temperature, insulation property, and radiation transmission and reflection. There are two basic modes of use:
z346
Bubble Shading? and Dynamic Cooling? on Summer Days? and in Hot Climates The liquid bubbles provide hundreds of layers of bubbles of about 6 mm (1/4 inch) diameter since a typical roof would be one meter thick. This provides a shade that is similar to cloud cover and absorbs the invisible heat spectrum of the sun. The advantage is cool daylight under the transparent roof that greatly reduces stress and improves productivity and comfort in the controlled environment space.
z347 Bubble Insulating and Dynamic Heating? on Winter Nights? and in Cold Climates? The liquid bubbles provide a thick blanket of insulation at night that is able to reduce the heat loss by a factor of ten times as compared to standard double polyethylene covered greenhouses and is about 15 times improvement over a single glass covered greenhouse. The renewal of the bubbles brings the stored solar gain from the Liquid Thermal Mass system to the building envelope so that no conventional heating is required inside the Solar Controlled Environment space during cold nights.
In both cases the same process is used: Bubble Generation Bubble Regeneration Bubble Destruction
z348
The proper function of bubble generation, regeneration and destruction give complete control over the properties of the Sola Roof and together with the Liquid Solar process of climate control the Bubble Technology can produce ideal environments for growing plants and housing animals and providing healthy living, working and recreational spaces. The Sola Roof processes are very dynamic and can be constantly monitored to provide automated response to the changes in the outside weather conditions. system can capture solar thermal gain during the day, store it in the liquid thermal mass, and then distribute this low temperature energy throughout the building envelope at night to eliminate the need for conventional heating of the interior space.
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z349 eco.htm: eco sphere project: concept, to rebalance with nature
The purpose of Eco Sphere is to be an icon that will represent a new era in which our technology serves and supports life; a striking example of our capacity to rebalance with nature and BUILD a sustainable future.
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monol.htm www.monolithicdome.com news homes sales info z350
Extract water from air. Airwell concept, using domes, proven at university level. Investors Needed. Contact Edward Dilley at Tilted Planet Productions, PO Box 10965, Zephyr Cove, NV 89448. 702-588-4147. TiltPlanet@aol.com
http://www.monolithic.com/roundup/pdfs/199807l.pdf:
The Airform, clamp straps, and rebar hangers you get from us. Everything
else you can get locally. We have developed a small line of concrete
pumps the builder may want to get from us. descriptions features personals
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sola.htm: list of projects plans or experimental work z351
This is the place to list your project plan or experimental work:
1. Lively Up Greenhouse - built by Ross Kat Elliott - a HomeStead? project using a Tunnel Structure.
2. Wrentham Solar Bubble Build -by HarveyRayner - This is a Tunnel Structure
3. Post Tsunami Visions - Global Vision 2000 network - to develop a new pattern for sustainable renewal - our first project: Sri Lanka Vision.
4. Green Church Initiative - by Richard Nelson - this is an initiative to see Green Churches built as an expression of faith in action
5. Open Source Ecology - Backyard office sustainable house demonstrator, featuring a closed loop water system and Sola Roof technology
6. Almeria Project - commercial greenhouse demonstration project in Almeria, Spain featuring a closed water systems and cooling technology using Sola Roof technology
7. Eco Sphere Project - a tensegrity structure of spherical or egg shape that will demonstration Closed Ecological Life Support Systems (CELSS) featuring a self contained pond and biomass system.
8. Proyecto Canarias Inicio - the Canaries Project - self reliance in food, water and energy for Tenerife and other Islands of the Canaries.
9. Eco Village Ghana - initiative of the Master Drummers of Africa - a new pattern for Eco Living in harmony with the beat of life.
10. Oil From Algae a group with the purpose of developing integral Mass Algae Culture systems as an option for most Sola Roof projects.
11. No Name Yet a project to develop designs and implement them for SolaRoof residential space in a desert environment.
12. X Tent a project to develop designs and implement them for SolaRoof portable and nomadic structures.
- - 7-06\26\amish z352
main.htm main page of randallpersing.com - amish pics
index.htm list of galleries by subject
winter.htm winter gallery amish pics
- - 7-06\26\dewpond z353
goo1.htm + b + c Results 1 - 30 of about 557 for dewpond project
1-2.htm dewponds at sussex nfo, fact?: Although dew and mist do contribute a small amount of water, the vast amount comes from rainfall. The South Downs are made of porous chalk so, in order to hold water a layer of non-porous, impervious clay is 'puddled' into a chalk depression.
A modern tecnique for restoring Dew Ponds is to put a liner underneath the clay. The liner holds the water should the clay crack during hot and dry weather.
- - 7-06\26\dome -not in dhu7-06h.zip try my\7-06\zips z354
goo3.htm: Results 1 - 10 of about 529,000 for airwell project
2-2.htm ! fairly useful nfo: run car on water, airwell kit 34$ why and tips
3-1.htm: www.airwellinc.com This Airwell renders up to seven pints, $80
airwell.htm PayPal for $39.99 at biohome website
biohome.htm main page kits video pics of foam domes
chronos3.html odd sci links + George Campbell 'How to Get Pure Drinking Water from the Sun', Popular Mechanics, April 1983, pp. 98, 106, 170
mdom.htm ! good tour of cement? domes + nfo monolithicdome.com main page
try re-tribe: ret galeeb.blogspot.com bankbashers.blogspot.com blog\6-06
foamredy.htm biohome foam-dome pics
practicl.htm Basic Components of the biohome pics!
preorder.htm biohome parts prices video
survival.htm biohome self powered
techfile.htm biohome details airwell-kit $40
waterwin.htm biohome window nfo
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z355 7-06\26\scip - sciperio.com christian? sci-studies for Laser-Photonics Digital-Printing Water-Technology Biotechnology Airships Antenna
bio-ov.htm: Biotechnology Overview: preventative, predictive, and curative tools and processes for healthy living.
focused on these projects:
1 Predictive Rare-Event Cancer and Biological Warfare Agent Detection System
2 vivo + in vitro tools, technologies, materials, procedures 4 regenerative medicine + engineering of custom tissue systems, on demand. real-time.
bio-red.htm: Bio-RED Process z356
Sciperio is developing an advanced monodisperse-layer cellular deposition and imaging system specifically designed to recognize rare-event cancer cells and biological warfare agents in fluidic media.
Biotech.htm nology Overview same as bio-ov.htm
invivo-bat.htm: The Invivo BAT development team's aims are to make a significant contribution towards the development of curative engineered tissue constructs (ETC's) pics
overview.htm z357
in materials, chemistry, computational fluid dynamics (CFD), and manufacturing can be applied to water technologies to make large, cost-effective improvements in water quality and treatment. We are focused on:
Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination - Developing scalable, biomimetic, cost-effective methods that approach near 100% water recovery using in part advanced energy efficient reverse-osmosis techniques for high water throughputs and high water recovery ratios. Water Extraction - Saline Agricultur -
z358 aw2.htm ! Water from Air, Water Extraction Technologies: Water from Air
Sciperio.com is adds liquid desiccant technology to the challenge of energy-efficient water harvesting from air. On-site water harvesting addresses the issue of distribution, the most difficult challenge. systems, such as reverse osmosis, work if source+use are near to one another. being able to extract water from air offers advantage, If continuously harvested, storage can be reduced. and meenz living in places where its scarce or nonexistent. water in the vapor phase meenz a potable water supply anywhere, a clear logistical advantage for soldiers, community workers, healthcare officials, and others in the field . Under DARPA funding, the proposed work at Sciperio, Mechatronic Solutions Inc and Spectra Watermakers seeks to develop a new approach...
z359 based on liquid-desiccant and advanced-energy-recovery-RO technologies. It provides clear energy efficiency advantages over current state-of-the-art water-from-air systems, and can be used to produce water under ambient air conditions (e.g., hot and dry in which current systems are incapable of producing condensed water from air. For purposes of water harvesting, we are using liquid desiccants to absorb water vapor from the air. z360
Liquid desiccants have at least 2 major advantages over solid desiccants:
1. Liquid desiccants have significantly smaller absorption-evaporation cycle hysteresis characteristics than the adsorption-desorption cycle of conventional solid desiccants. This means that the energy losses per hydration-dehydration process cycle are smaller for liquid desiccants than they are for typical solid desiccants. A water-from-air system based on the application of liquid desiccants is inherently more energy efficient than a system based on conventional solid desiccant surfaces.
2. Liquid desiccants have a much higher relative water mass uptake capacity than conventional solid desiccants. Upon dissolution, for example, a LiCl ion pair generates two hydration shells comprised of a total of 26 water molecules (e.g., 2 moles of water per molar equivalent of dissolved solute. Only a few water molecules may be condensed and held within a traditional solid desiccant crystallite. As a result, liquid desiccants exhibit a 15-100 fold mass uptake advantage over traditional solid desiccants as shown in the figure below. This means that liquid desiccant-based water-from-air systems, in principle, will be lighter and more compact than comparable systems based on traditional solid state adsorbents.
z361 Hygroscopic salts, like LiCl, make excellent liquid desiccants. The free energy of hydration, ?G hyd, is so large for such salts that, upon exposure to typical ambient room air, they dissolve in their own waters of hydration. Figure 5 represents a timed-sequence series of photographs, shot at Sciperio, showing the dissolution of solid LiCl crystals and the formation of a desiccant solution due to water vapor extraction from a flowing air stream (70 oF / 50% RH, 0.5 standard L/min flow rate:
Click on the picture for a larger version. Below is an example of the water collection in our liquid desiccant solutions as a function of time at 50% relative humidity.
z362 Potable water is produced by extracting solvent water from the desiccant solution, which is achieved in the proposed system through the use of an evaporation/condensation cycle The primary functional elements of the Evaporator/Condenser Module being built are liquid desiccant reservoir;
closed loop scavenger air plenum;
an air-to-liquid water vapor mass exchanger;
a heat exchanger / water vapor condenser stage;
a heat pump which is used to heat liquid desiccant in the evaporator stage and cool water vapor in the condenser stage; and
a produced water collection reservoir.
z363 Simply put, the key advantage of a liquid desiccant cooling system (versus a pure refrigeration-type lies in the fact that water vapor may be extracted from the process air stream without first removing the sensible heat. Liquid desiccant cooling systems are beginning to become popular for humidity control and HVAC applications in the US and internationally because it is only the latent heat of vaporization for condensed/extracted water that must be managed. We are applying the application of proven liquid desiccant technology to the challenge of energy-efficient water harvesting from air. As with building air-handling applications, this approach has the immediate advantage of eliminating the need to remove sensible heat from a process air stream.
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z364 !? Saline Agriculture Sciperio.com, problem of saltwater irrigation on a genetic level.
Water purification, reclamation and desalination are important approaches to the looming water crisis, but not the only ones. With 80% of the water used for agriculture, another approach to the efficient use of water is by using saltwater and/or brine for agriculture irrigation.
20% of the world's cultivated land is affected by salinity + will worsen.
a answer: Exploring Salt Tolerance Mechanisms While there are plants, such as mangrove, which can survive and even thrive in saline soils.
z365 their mechanisms of salt tolerance have been associated with general plant stress, the mechanisms poorly understood. a battery of stress response genes are involved, many are common to most stress responses. a combinatorial genomics approach with high transfection efficiencies to study salt-tolerant plants or non-plant organisms as a source of novel genes and pathways related to salinity and other stress tolerance.
In essence, we are trying to make the plants survive under saline conditions, and then implement this knowledge across multiple-scale agricultural applications. It has remarkable potential. methods to understand salt tolerance for saline agriculture, the largest consumer of water. - a think-backward answer, like conserving water is to making it.
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z366 The global Water crisis - see comments at start of this file.
Access to water and efficient, a challenges of the 21st century.
water-f.htm: is wa2.htm with pics! water-r.htm: Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination solar house, best pics!Using advanced reverse osmosis and bimimetic applications of tech-know near 100% water recovery. Most reverse osmosis (RO) only 30%. Sciperio is co-developing with Spectra-Watermakers near 100% water recovery. modeled on existing systems found in nature.
z367 The Solar Waterhouse Current reclamation methods produce residual brine that is often discarded as an acceptable by-product (see rexresearch.com\ airwell patents). Our solar waterhouse is a greenhouse-like structure with microlens arrays on glass panels to help evaporate water from the concentrated brine, capturing that "last gallon" of water. this working with other methods, can reach near 100% water recovery.
z368 The solar waterhouse is also biomimetically modeled to include an engineered outer surface. It's a proven, effective design found in nature, and represents just another way Sciperio brings fresh approaches to new challenges. An illustration of the solar waterhouse concept. Advanced Reverse Osmosis We have formed a strategic partnership with Spectra Watermakers to co-develop a high throughput, high water recovery reverse-osmosis (RO) system. The advanced RO system features a unique two-stage pumping and pressurizing system. The first stage is a simple feed pump which supplies raw water flow and pressure for prefiltration, circulation, and the driving energy for the second stage, the Clark Pump.
z369 The Clark Pump is a unique pressure intensifier that uses two opposing cylinders and pistons that share a single rod. -got pic. Water pressure from the small feed pump is used by one of the cylinders to make the other pressurize and circulate the saltwater through the reverse osmosis membrane. Pressurization is achieved when the rod, as it is forced into a cylinder, displaces water in the closed loop circuit. The pressure instantly builds to the point where the displaced volume of water is forced out of the membrane as the fresh product. When a driving cylinder's piston touches the base, the process is instantly reversed. Pressurization is almost continuous. There is no energy-wasting "back stroke" as in other systems and no need for gears or crank shafts that need oil and servicing. The energy recovery system takes advantage of stored energy in the high pressure reject water that is typically wasted. The pressurized reject water is re-circulated to the back side of the piston to aid the next stroke. A double-acting energy recovery system recovers energy entrained in the brine stream to help or boost the high pressure pump in conjunction with the feed water pressure pump in both cycles. We are also performing a systems study of how the RO unit can be powered via renewable energy resources. The inner workings of the advanced RO pump. The advanced RO system being co-developed with SpectraWatermakers has or will have the following features:
Unique energy recovery approach
Pressure-amplifying Clark Pump
Low pressure pumps: a 40-60 psi external feed pump with a 10:1 internal pressure amplification ratio leading to a 400-600 psi internal pressure which will lead to lower capital equipment expense
Low energy consumption rate 3WHr/L (70%-80% less than traditional RO units) using seawater as the water source , Ultra-quiet
Integrated feed pump and energy recovery/pressure amplifier functions
Highly scalable and modular design (10,000-1,000,000 gallons/day applications) , Low manufacturing costs ,No external motive unit ,High reliability , Good operational efficiency
z370
Advanced RO For Distributed Treatment It is evident that the latest generation of technology is changing the landscape of distributed energy. Small-scale power generation (usually less than 50 megawatt capacity) near the load provides more economic, a less polluting power supply and management options for energy customers and utilities over conventional central generation. A major driver for distributed and modular power is techno-economic. For example, rapid advances in wind, photovoltaic and solar-thermal power technologies, have significantly reduced the cost of these renewable power sources. We envisage that small-scale water distribution will also provide more economic and management options for water customers and utilities than conventional central water distribution, especially when amalgamated with on-going distributed energy advances. Water without question is one of our most consequential shared resources, but faces severe threats from both natural and human causes. These threats include destruction of water supply, treatment, or distribution systems through accidents, terrorism, or force majeure, as well as insufficient supplies of fresh water due to pollution, ineffective management, or excessive demand. Such threats have the potential to significantly limit economic growth, lead to widespread health concerns, and inflame a growing number of regional conflicts. However, water generation, water treatment, and distributed water have not been an area of basic research and innovation since it is believed that water is a mature technology. Understanding the kinetics and energetics of desalting at the RO membrane level including the effects of hydrophilicity, porosity, surface chemistry, and performing active control of the ionic separation surface are anticipated to collectively improve the water flux, decrease energy consumption, overcome bio-fouling, and provide sizeable improvements in our ability for in-line processing of chemical and biological contaminants in the water stream. The concept of distributed water is driving much of our co-development research with SpectraWatermakers on advanced RO systems that are energy efficient and modular.
wat1.htm same water.htm Water Technology Overview, Sciperio.com z371
Today's world population is approximately 6.1 billion people and growing.8 billion By 2050, we meet the scarcity of water using a three-pronged approach. We are focused on:
Water Reclamation, Purification, and Desalination - reverse-osmosis
Water Extraction - Using liquid desiccant processes for maximize water extraction density atleast more efficient than standard refrigeration.
Saline Agriculture - We are beginning to explore the idea of a combinatorial genomics approach with high transfection efficiencies to study salt tolerant plants or non-plant organisms as a source of novel genes and pathways related to salinity and other stress tolerance
Source: satanic United Nations, World Population Prospects, 1998 Revision
and de-population plans.
- - best-of-show ! see 3brief
- 4main\not dew related, but good reasons to dew. quickly: z372
- other dirz of 7-06
4\UN-DVDS TXT 2,814 anti-un conspiracy videos infowars.com
6\AF-XANGA TXT 11,629 xanga.com africa visits for galeeb.blogspot.com
6-2\HOST-OOG TXT 1,060 oraclesofgod.org scripture-music, web-hosting aid
7\GULAGS4U TXT 1,789 google.com gulags in america. esther. genocide.
Total files listed: 146 file(s 4,062,853 bytes 56 dir(s
dhu706ht.zip - 1.4mb also contains 5 gifs for h2o2 production.
- - end of 4main -
- - 5verse: -using z1 to z372 to sort this nfo any-way-you-want.
verse-mix ideas:
2do: remove odd letters or save-as msdos: fix z17 z19 z75 z99-100 z136 z148
blogger.com wont allow control-g
2do: use verses to collect principles of dehumidifiers, then best2build by.
-see dhu8-x2.txt,
2do: verses pointing to what i want more of to dew-study eg.refridgerant
-see dwn85-06.txt
- - xx1-xx7: are my z-mixes test? paused at..?
ooi= order of importance -see x-vizn.
skip h202 production. go to dehumidifer concepts 1! 2! 3!
dhu8-xx2.txt - - - - v8-7-06 7pm, dew ideas: find-water , dehumidifier nfo. plans: to show dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use.
use what water remains to find-sort nfo, start a drip.
z1 to z372 helps find nfo... use it.
xx1 to xx6 are z's sorted different ways.
xx1: z's with 1! 2! 3! - first time reading
xx2: z's from all to best - identify all nfo b4 choosing
xx3: z's to download next - parts that got my attention
xx4: z's 4 field use, now! - best 2 survive on. print.
xx5: doom - just a warning: get drip'n
xx6: key-word z's - comes2mind when sorting
xx7: related - pics and news to stir-you
xx1 -1! take with you, 2! my kind of detailed talk, 3! related+worth knowing
xx2 :about dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use
xx3 better stuff: plan new downloads based on nfo found so far
xx4 bind z's that fit you : resources at hand, sim2 1! of xx1, but complete
xx5 fitn xx4 n2 my-situ: 6-06\x-vizn.txt retribe-blogspot.com, time-set4doom
xx6 z's related to words-bank z4, the 5 1!'s: i begin to see new sorts 4 nfo
xx7 related helps,nfo, images?: z112-113, doom:z146-148+z2-3, sim2 3! of xx1
- start -
xx1 verses ordered by 1marks grading v6-31-06(date because ooi changes)z11?: 1! take with you , 2! my kind of detailed talk, 3! related+worth knowing
1!: z21:1-2.htm, z38:egg, z40:poly, z71:coils, z74:roto, z75:comp, z76:s-how, z78:salt, z89:act, z91:first+heat, z92:parts, z93:awg, z96:links, z136:sure, z138:clay, z146:focus, z147:bicker, z149:tell, z150:ensol, z166:kill, z171:safe, z175:wait, z176:copper, z177:avoid, z181:sick, z185:germs, z186:nose, z188:trail, z189:low, z194:boil?, z197:help, z218:granite, z222:dig, z223:night, z241:all-veg, z250:rapid, z251:works, z254:seal, z260:lamp, z284:scarce, z285:skin, z291:vacuum, z292:saving + alcohol, z297:not pay, z302:swish, z309:easier than dig, z312:energy matter, z343:pods,
2!: z13:h2o2 f-a-q + synonyms, z15:dst dhu, z16:heat-pipe, z17:refridge, z19:h2o2 formula, z23:brief survival 2do + 2many, z24+31:bubble tech , z29:h2o3 faqs, z39:h2o2.com, z40:salt-metals, z58:icemak, z68:h2o2 thermody, z70:how dhu works-repairclinic.com, z72:all about dhu, z87:dhu links, z101:awg-pics, z136:still details + staying, z143:better from air?, z156:foot swell, z158:millennium-ark.com, z164:muddy, z166:chlor lime, z170:boil, z196:know target area, z200:below surface, z201:cover yourself, z202:alcohol, z203:slugish, z204:dew, z205:dig up cool stones, z207:the radiator, z210:dig 9' away, z218:canyon wall sweats, z227:inside the tree, z229:mud fly, z231:fly before dusk, z236:reptiles, z237:roots branches, z238:gush plant cut 24hr, z240:sap=laytex poison darts, z243:break stalk, z247:fault, z250:from salt-waters, z275:slush refrid, z288:30'f diff, z292:wear damp, z307:4item still, z328:sola -clean water in lardge quantity, z342:101 projects to loosen mind+ 8.evaporation+,
3!: z14:h202 intro, z20:cpd training courses + objectives, z27:scams? run car on water + airwell-kit,
-
xx2 v8-8-06, 6am put new dhu8-xx2.txt update here: (inside 8-06axx4.txt)
- - xx2: about dhu7-06.txt: 1.whats in it, 2.parts i can use
set 1: list all the find-water z's
set 2: list the best drip-now z's - for xx4 to choose from.
m = methods:
m1: -read from z1 to z372
m2: -use xx1 for set 1, then for set 2
m3: -do so from xx3: z's to download next
m4: -do so from xx6: key-word z's
m5: -do so from xx7: best pics and warnings
eg:z15-z18 z23, z24, 7-06\dew5-06.zip, z28:*.*, z29-33:review=best of show,
-start- use the -- to jump to set 2
-- set 1: list all the find-water z's:
- m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: everthing related.
results: see z3
- m2: -from xx1: parts for set 1: -the focus: all finding-water nfo.
from xx1: z11:version 6-31-06: 1!take 2!detailed 3!related
remove ones not fit for set 1
1!: z40:poly, z71:coils, z74:roto, z75:comp, z76:s-how, z78:salt, z89:act, z91:first+heat, z92:parts, z93:awg, z96:poor links, z136:sure, z138:clay, z146:focus, z149:dead-air, z150:ensol+cold, z166:hot, z176:copper+z40,z181,z194:sick, z185:germs, z188:trail, z189:low, z194:boil?, z197:help me collect water!, z218:granite, z222:dig, z223:night, z241:all-veg, z250:rapid, z251:works, z254:seal, z260-265:lamp,z284:scarce, z285:skin, z291-309:vacuum, z292:saving + alcohol, z297:not pay, z302:swish, z309:easier than dig, z312:links+energy matter, z343:copy pods -plans know how to get water,
2!: z15:dst dhu, z16:heat-pipe, z17:refridge, z19:h2o2 formula, z23:brief survival 2do + 2many, z24:bubble tech , z31 related, z40:salt-metals, z58:icemak, z68:h2o2 thermody, z70:how dhu works-repairclinic.com, z72:all about dhu, z87:dhu links, z101:awg-pics, z136:still details + staying, z143:better from air?, z156:foot swell, z158:millennium-ark.com, z164:muddy, z166:chlor lime, z170:boil, z196:know target area, z200:below surface, z201:cover yourself, z202:alcohol, z203:slugish, z204:dew, z205:dig up cool stones, z207:the radiator, z210:dig 9' away, z218:canyon wall sweats, z227:inside the tree, z229:mud fly, z231:fly before dusk, z236:reptiles, z237:roots branches, z238:gush plant cut 24hr, z240:sap=laytex poison darts, z243:break stalk, z247:fault, z250:from salt-waters, z275:slush refrid, z288:30'f diff, z292:wear damp, z307:4item still, z328:sola -clean water in lardge quantity, z342:101 projects to loosen mind+ 8.evaporation+,
3!: z14:h202 intro, z20:cpd training courses + objectives, z27:scams? run car on water + airwell-kit,
-end
yes, these 'do' help in the choosing for xx4:
- m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt
- m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words
see xx6: (then take out parts 'for' this xx2\set 1
(says water-words so far: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow etc..)
(see z4 word-bank for more)
-end
- m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 1:
-end
-end of set 1
-- set 2: list the best drip-now z's - for xx4 to choose from.
m = methods:
- m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: can i use it? my resources?
- m2: -from xx1: parts for set 2: -the focus: finding water, best-nfo.
- m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt
- m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words
- m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 2:
eg:z15-z18 z23, z24, 7-06\dew5-06.zip, z28:*.*, z29-33:review=best of show,
-start- use set 1, only best parts, then use at xx4: field-uses print
- m1:read it all start to finish -z1 to z372: everthing related,
results: from z3, omit parts not fit for set 2,
use the below as you cut 8-06axx4.txt, repaste this xx2 as updated.
z10:july 2006,25-26th search-words used: dehumidifier principle, + vortex, water survival condense, +? dew collect project air build, dewpond project,
choose for set 2:
z3 nfo-list of z's (you are reading it)
z4 word-bank
z15-35: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics, best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel ( 3brief htms are replaced with z's in dhu8, see dhu7 )
z15-18: 3brief of htm: dehumidifers + best? pics list
z23-24: 3biref of htm: water survival condense, dew collect project air build
z26-28: 3brief of htm: dewpond biohome+airwell? sciperio=cancer+water-get
z29: 3brief best-of-show htm. -dst silicagel
z31-34: 3brief b.o.s: water survival condense, dew collect project air build
z36: 4main: clay vortex-tube htms -short
z58: 4main: h2o2 + icemak htm. -short z59: ?
! z69-114:
z69: search-words, z70: intro + primary components + def, z71:principle, z72 how it works + uses, adsorption roter components principle, z75 marine dhu-dryers, z77 dst silicagel type, z78 parts, -79 dust washable bacteria, z80 varieties of basic process:consorb recusrob + dr, frigo- econo- aqua-,
z85 construction, -87 wiki definition answer.com, z88 how it? works, z90 how desiccant types work, z92 the four parts, z93- other types, effectiveness, purity, z96 links, z97 watermaker product, z98 get more of dst? gallery principle.htm, z99 -repairclinic.com not to good, links!?, z100 sciperio.com, z101 ! wiki, awg process, z108 alternate methods not awg, z111 dehu device links, z114 most helpful? pics
z127: cpd short-courses in water-science.
! z134-313:
z134: z134 words: water survival condense, dew collect project air build
z135 brief: but sharp -HikingwithMike, Box 68 Wilderness Survival Tips, gear!
z136: a still, only 4near water, z137 ! first concerns, z138 snow shelters 2, z139: fresh-water hand-pump chat, product links, z143 ro, better from air, z144-46 vaccum vortex-separation?, z149 survival in a cave, gear, z150 cold from the ground, heat watch, z155 time-table, z156 footswell, z159 finding survival water !, z160 sick, z161 boiled, z162 stagnate, z163 muddy, z166 hot stones method, z167 purity, z168 boil aerating, z169 boil!, z171 iodine steps, z176 other chemicals, z177 poisoned water holes, hard, sweet, z181 disease, dysntary, typhoid, douves, z185 skin, leeches, z187 where to find water, geo-signs, desserts, z193 plants, z194 bad wells?, z195 dessert survival: walking, marking, covering, z199 cool below surface !, z201 dessert walking tips, z202 thirst do\donts, z203 slugish, z204 ! dew: surfaces, old radiators, z208 bedouin animal signs, geo signs, holes near water, z215 bushman:suction pipe, grass filter, egg-stor, z216 poison tastes, z217 geo-sins:rocky hills, lava, soft soils, signs, foot of mountains, z223: other sources: plants, nights, bugs, birds, ants, z226-8 she-oaks, z229: other signs of water: birds, flys, pigeons, grain eaters, unclean birds, mammals, frogs, reptiles, z237-46: plant sources, rags, sea-coast geo know, z249: fish flesh, z250: from salt-water, z252 in arid areas: dawn, plastic sealed hole with damp waste objects crushed added, z260 water from a lantern, wool, rain-water, snow, ice + how2, z274 salt-water to fresh by ice, how2, z277 finding it on the ocean: river outlets, rain, fish, z281: ! the other side of getting water is 'preserving' it: body water, stay covered, avoid evaporate, z288 utmost shade ! 30'f dif, MISCELLANEOUS TIPS: z291: old hand-pump how2, z292: at sea: save, sweat, dampen, sleep, donts, suck, z293: finding water: maps, geo terrain, -trees, mountains, tree types, z297 dig dosnt pay if desperate, z298 bird signs, daily needs, boil, thirsty:drink small+often, z303 survival time-table, searching may be worse than waiting for help.
z305 obtaining water, natural, unatural sources: disinfect, still how2,
z310 teacher\student explanation !,how2still links, word definition,
z314 Couran Cove luxery and nrg indepenece ideas mix, worms, water,
z317-327:
z317 comonchaka, chili: fog-fences, gov, topo, z320 light !, patons de-sal method, z326 idea,
z328-348:
z328 solaroof concept, overheat, process, soap solution, circulating, z335 hot-sky, z336 more thermass has no payback!, z337 floodeded rock bed, z338 biomimicry, z339 swg contradictions, z340 solarooof tech nfo: bubble description, gallery, how liquid thermomass system (lts) bubs work, z342 scienceproject.com selected, z344 list of subpump stuff, z345 groups.yahoo.com/group/solaroof bubl-tec generators shading cooling, dynamic control,
z349-50 eco sphere project, bio dome, z351 links to projects using sola dome, z352 amish, z353-354 dewpond + airwell?, z355- sciperio cancer studies,
! z357-371:
z357 sciperio.com + desal method, z358 liquid disciccants, z359 advanced ro, z360 advantages over solid disciccants, z361 hydroscopic salts, z362 ! primary elements stages of, z363 key advantages, z364 genetic changes to make agriculture plants salt tolerant, z366 water:crisis, recovery %, z367 solar waterhouse = 100%, z368 surface ro 2stage, z369 the clark pump !, z370 advanced ro membranes?, z371 overview of desal efforts, z372 not dew related but good reason too: gulags in america, oraclesofgod.org, africa xanga.com, anti-un dvds, end of dhu7-06.txt\4main
-end
- m3: -from xx3: z's i want to download more of, see dwn84-06.txt
- m4: -from xx6: z's for word-bank words
see xx6: (then take out parts 'for' this xx2\set 2
(says water-words so far: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow etc..)
(see z4 word-bank for more)
-end
- m5: -from xx7: best pics and warnings for set 2:
-end
-end of set 2
-end of xx2
-
xx3 get more on the curious ones: plan downloads based on previous catches:
z4 word-bank stirs mind + biomimicry = a call to run cool, see x6(th5 1!), links:z5-z9 lists all? found in this zip + z96-99(purchaseable), z13 germano.htm more of + links, z21+130:1-2.htm, z24:awg.htm -subpumps? + sola.htm links!, z27:2-2.htm -see 7-06\dome.zip, z34:chronos.htm:alternate nrg, cements mixes nfo\clay-mix.txt? sealants tile-body 7-06\potrz706.zip z36, z70 links, z75pipe, types:z80-85, z93:humidifier -study the opposite first?, hand-pumped purifiers:links:z140,
why not hand or foot-powered dehumidifires? refridgerators? vortex-tubes, z158:millennium-ark.com?, survival stills links:z312, z314:Couran Cove, patons desalinator?cnn-news:z320-327, bubble-tech sola-roof z328-341 and links:z351, mind-stir:z342, scams?:z354, sciperio.com:z357-363, clark pump:z369, srch z4 words on internet-google.com?,z260:OIL:LAMP-damp power?,
z16 heat-pipe principle, -see 5versex3.txt
-
xx4 see xx2, bunch verses related to your reach: resources at hand, sim2 1! of x1 = can\must do\know now, least proccessing required, as is, go with the designs that are, why build a home? look closer at natures patterns, fit in, homestead may already be built!, do what they? do: z23, cements mixes nfo\clay-mix.txt? sealants tile-body 7-06\potrz706.zip z36, z70-72?,z75pipe?,
-
xx5 must do now, survival, re-tribe, 6-06\x-vizn.txt retribe-blogspot.com:
-
xx6 list verses related to word-bank (z4) the 5 1!'s:
water-collection methods: (not ordered easy-complex)
0 survival: z135-138,caves:z149-157,doom:z146-148+z2-3,desserts:z158-z304 -best parts 4dhu:???, wiki:v305-309, teachers:z310-313 links+def, z309:easier than dig. -see x1\1!2!3!(z223:night, z250:from salt-waters,more... -get),
1 airwell (awg?) z26 -see dew5-06.zip, z70-72?,z88-89,z93,h50%:z94-95?, z101-110
2 parts dew5-06.zip\g3 + refridgeration, ge appliances,etc:z70-72?+z96-99, z75pipe,z88-89, h50%:z94-95, z101-110, links:z111 or z5-9=all in file?,
3 des?iccant: z73-74,z77-79,types:z80-85, about:z86-87,z90-92, z98
4 bubble-tech sola-roof: z24, z328-z341 + z345-348, links:z351
5 liquid dessicant (xx): z28:wa*.*, sciperio.com:z357-363,
6 reverse osmosis (RO), advanced-ro: sciperio.com:z357-363?, z366?,
7 hand\foot-power pump\suck purifiers:z139-145
8 hilsch vortex-tubes + clay pipes:z145
9 fog-fence chili:z317-319 -see dew5-06.zip\airwell.htm bagel.htm,
10 patons desalinator?:z320-327, sciperio:z364-365, z366-371
11 subpumps + pv?solar powered parts:z344
12 dewponds:z353, 2 types? -see dew5-06, sim2 fogfence, included?
13 odd scams or unknown: z354,
word bank xx6:
best water-words yet: cold hot heat-and-cold insulate air-flow
see z4 word-bank for more.
do:dehumidify dehydrate refridgerate
cold: expansion(water2vapour), evaporation(methods:magnetic, electrostatic, liquid. upon:water, disciccants, fibers, objects, plants, anything damp(basments?), anything containing water:), earth as heat-sink, vortex-tube, icy-balls, z150
hot: solar, redox-reactions, thermite?, slacking-lime(see was\ice2.txt for 3 chemical heat-sources), fire(methods:methane(john fry, harold bate, ram bux sing:journeytoforever.com),electric,wood,compost(jean pain), see energy-to-mass conversions of all types -stored in one form to another:scienceprojects.com basic science projects related, -then choose the one most fit to your area, coal, friction, human-powered:hand,foot, door, implosion(vapour2water) does create some heat when condensing, any reaction dealing with oxygen usually gives off heat:rusting, burning, cancer, body-heat?,
heat-and-cold: thermo-massive objects, vortex-tubes, electronics?, science projects, certain things: cements plasters epoxy heat-up when re-crystalizing.
insulate: list insulation values of various materials:cotton, fibers, layers of plastic, bubbles, foam,
air-flow: siphon, vortex, suction, implosion(vapour2water), air like water 'wants' to move a certain way... -imitate it, egg-shapes? air-foils? expansion(water2vapour)
-end
-
xx7 related helps,nfo, images?: z112-113, doom:z146-148+z2-3 z366 z371 z372, mind-stir:z342, bio homes:z349, z350+354, amish?z352,
-end
- - end of 5verses
comment: doing set 1 helped me see definitions, types, concepts, and odd things that need be noted in the preview for dhu7-06.txt: main. 3brief?
collected so far:
z10:gooz, z11:1!2!3!, z12:content by dirz, z13:3brief of each htm dirz,
best-of-show: ones marked -!- are re-listed, for '3brief' only.
odd statements: -for xx7 ?
- salt-water will evaporate quicker? electrostatic -conducts better?
- hot water will freeze faster than luke-warm water.
- z260-265 lamps metal and water
- definitions: z313
- doom:z146-148+z2-3
- ooi: water > greens > grain > flocks > people > sin > drought
-no end-
see www.ret-water.blogspot.com
.
ice1.txt v6-25-08 - - clip from f19-7\82506.zip\freeze.htm
A bunch of objects in equilibrium with radiation don't have the same
.TEMPERATURE!>
You learned in physics that objects at thermal equilibrium all have the
same temperature. Yet if you examine objects bathed in the radiation field
of a summer day, objects which are free to exchange energy and which you'd
think of as reaching equilibrium, they aren't the same temperature at all.
After all, the white plastic deck chair can feel cold to your touch while
the red hood of the sports car is hot enough to fry an egg. What trick is
radiation playing now?
Earlier I said that the coefficients describing emissivity, absorbtion,
and transmission vary with wavelength. This makes it possible that one
material is very absorptive at a particular wavelength and not emissive at
another; and a different material is not absorptive at the first
wavelength, but very emissive at the second. These two materials will not
behave the same.
If we are interested in how materials will behave when in sunlight, then
the important figure of performance is the ratio of absorption coefficient
in visible light, as to emissivity at thermal infrared wavelengths, eb.
Examples of two extreme materials in this regard are aluminum painted with
white epoxy paint, for which the ratio is 0.3, and brushed stainless
steel, for which the ratio is 4.3. If these two materials are placed in
full sunlight, and prevented from cooling by any means other than
long-wave radiation, they will achieve equilibrium temperatures of 286K
and 564K, respectively! A Carnot heat engine operating between these two
temperatures would be 50% efficient, far better than any photovoltaic
solar panels. .CONCLUSIONS>
We are out of time, especially so as I planned some time for questions
and answers. In summary, it should be obvious that the subject of
radiation heat transfer is very interesting. It is also very complex, and
becomes even more so when absorbing gases are present, and when solid
surfaces transmit radiation and so forth. These few examples, I hope have
shown you how to begin solving realistic, and interesting problems.
ice2.txt - - - - v6-08 from was\ice2.txt heat sources, Exothermic and
endothermic chemical reactions Heat from cold wood ashes Slaking Lime The
Thermit(e) reaction Making your own hand warmer Further reading and
websites Challenge To make a safe, portable form of heating to take to the
rest of the team working up on the glacier. Exothermic and endothermic
chemical reactions When a chemical reaction takes place, chemical bonds in
the reactants are broken and new bonds are formed. Depending on the nature
of the bonds involved, a reaction will either release energy to, or absorb
energy from, the surroundings, as heat. When a process releases energy to
the surroundings it?s called exothermic (from the Greek thermo meaning
heat, and exo meaning outside). The most obvious effect of an exothermic
chemical reaction is generally a rise in the temperature of the reaction
mixture. However, some processes absorb heat energy from the surroundings
in which case they?re called endothermic reactions (endo in Greek, means
within). The effect of an endothermic chemical reaction is generally a
fall in the temperature of the reaction mixture. Back to top All
combustion reactions (e.g burning of coal) are exothermic. Incredibly, the
reaction between iron and moist air to produce rust is a very exothermic
process that generates lots of heat. Unfortunately, this particular
reaction takes place so slowly that the liberation of heat is
undetectable. Pyrotechnics, explosives and fuels, on the other hand, all
involve very fast and hugely exothermic chemical reactions. For our hand
warmer, do we need to use an exothermic process or an endothermic one? To
generate heat and release it to the surroundings, we need an exothermic
process and one that?s suitable for use in a hot pack for warming the
hands. What properties do you think are necessary for a suitable chemical
reaction for use in a hand warmer? Well, the reaction must be portable and
easily reproducible. It must generate and be able to maintain a
temperature that?s neither too hot nor too cold. It must also be safe, and
not involve the use of hazardous chemicals. We decided to try three
different exothermic processes to see if any met the above criteria: Heat
from cold wood ashes Slaking lime The thermit(e) reaction. Back to top
Heat from cold wood ashes The first ?reaction? that we tried for our hand
warmer involved dissolving potassium carbonate (K2CO3) in water. Potassium
carbonate is one of the chemicals left behind in the ashes of burnt wood.
You can extract it from the ashes by boiling them in water and filtering
off any undissolved solids. The potassium carbonate dissolves in the
water, along with some other salts. Reducing the aqueous solution down by
evaporating off much of the water, followed by filtering, will leave a
clear solution containing predominantly potassium carbonate. If you
evaporate off nearly all the water, solid potassium carbonate will
eventually fall out of solution as it becomes increasingly concentrated.
It can then be filtered off and dried. When we dissolved our dry, solid
potassium carbonate in water, a temperature rise of only a few degrees
Celsius occured . The process wasn?t therefore suitable for our purposes.
We considered alternatives involving a chemical reaction of some sort.
Although dissolving potassium carbonate (K2CO3) in water is an exothermic
process, it isn?t a chemical reaction, because no chemical bonds are
broken or formed as it takes place. But it generates heat, so can be
described as exothermic. Back to top Slaking lime The second exothermic
process we tried for our hand warmer involved the ?slaking? of quicklime,
which involves a chemical reaction or two.. We took ordinary chalk
(calcium carbonate, CaCO3) and heated it to between 1 200 and 1 400 øC. At
these temperatures, the calcium carbonate releases carbon dioxide gas
(CO2) and is converted into quicklime (calcium oxide, CaO). When you add
water to the quicklime, a process called ?slaking?, a vigorous reaction
takes place, and lots of heat is generated. The product of the reaction is
a compound called ?slaked? lime (calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2). Although
aqueous solucitons of 'slaked' lime are alkaline, its solubility in water
is so low that the solution would not represent a caustic hazard in a hand
warmer. Given the right amount of lime, the amount of heat generated
would be suitable for our purposes. The reaction?s also portable and
easily reproducible. But let?s try one more exothermic reaction. Back to
top The thermit(e) reaction The third process we tried was a chemical
reaction called the thermit reaction (sometimes spelt thermite). This is a
vigorous and highly exothermic reaction, which was used in the past to
weld railway lines together. We managed to generate enough heat in our
thermit reaction to weld two pieces of steel plate. The temperature
generated by the reaction must therefore have been higher than 1 600 øC.
The thermit reaction involves the reduction (Originally, reduction
involved the chemical removal of oxygen from, or the addition of hydrogen
to, a compound. Reduction is more accurately defined as a process in which
atoms, molecules or ions gain electrons) of certain metal oxides by
aluminium (Al) powder. We got our aluminium powder by filing down old
drinks cans. We chose to use iron(III) oxide, or Fe2O3, known more
commonly as rust. We got ours off an old corrugated iron shed at the
sawmill. When we mixed our aluminium powder and rust in the right
proportions, and kick-started the reaction, a glowing mass of molten iron
was formed, along with an amazing amount of heat and light. This was a
little too vigorous a reaction to be used in making hand warmers so
instead we decided to stick to the slaking of lime. Back to top Making
your own hand warmer The best reaction for use in our hand warmers was the
?slaking? of lime. It generated enough heat for our purposes, and involved
chemicals (water, calcium oxide and calcium hydroxide) that are
comparatively safe, and readily available., The reaction?s also portable
and easily reproducible. TO MAKE YOUR OWN HAND WARMER YOU WILL NEED 2
sealable polythene bags (approx. 10cm * 10cm) 14g powdered lime (calcium
oxide) 10cm3 of tap water teaspoon plastic pipette or eye dropper bucket
of cold water Before you try the following experiment, make sure that you
are wearing protective glasses nd latex or rubber gloves. Do NOT handle
these chemicals with your bare hands. Don?t use a Nylon garment. NOTE: Be
careful: when mixing the contents you may find they become so hot, they
may cause serious burns. Take a small, self-sealing polythene bag and
place it inside another bag of the same type and size. Using the teaspoon,
carefully add 14g of powdered lime to the inner bag, and use the pipette
or eye-dropper to add about 10cm3 of tap water to it. Seal up both bags
securely, and mix the contents together by carefully manipulating the
powder and the water with your fingers. After a few seconds, you will
notice that the temperature of the hand warmer starts to rise
dramatically. When we took our ?slaked?-lime hand warmers to the rest of
the Team on the Franz Josef Glacier, we found that so much heat was
generated by them that some of the plastic bags actually melted. If this
happens when you try the experiment, drop the bags into a bucket of cold
water and dispose of the resulting solution by flushing it down the
toilet. Be sure to wash your hands immediately and thoroughly in plenty of
cold running water. Back to top Further reading and web sites: Metals and
Chemical Change, edited by David Johnson, published by The Open University
and the Royal Society of Chemistry (2002), ISBN 0-85404-665-8 Materials
and Energy, Book 2 of the Open University Course ST240 Our Chemical
Environment, The Open University (2000), ISBN 0 7492 51425 Hampden -
Sydney College An educational site looking at the various uses of lime.
Wikipedia Encyclopedia A site looking at a variety of chemical reactions,
including exothermic and endothermic reations. Washington University in St
Louis This site provides an experiement for an exothermic reaction.
University of Siegen - Germany Selection of experiments of Thermit
reactions
ice3.txt ---- clips from 82606no.txt
goo9\search.htm hot chips with mayo
bonnie: i dont remember getting a decent answer for my question. how did they get ice for ice chests before electricity was invented.
reply:this is what you want:
Join Date: Jun 2005 http://www.teknoscape.com.au/forums/member.php?u=5144
Location: this is what you get Posts: 1,503
Most municipally consumed ice was harvested and stored in ice plants which did not actually create artificial ice, but stored natural ice brought in from snow packed area or frozen lakes. Even Thoreau's Walden Pond was not spared from ice harvesting where some 1,000 tons of ice were harvested daily.
With metropolitan growth many of the sources for natural ice became contaminated from pollution or sewer runoff. This increased the need for a safe mechanical means of refrigeration in the home, and with the development of the chlorofluorocarbons (along with the succeeding hydrochlorofluorocarbons and hydrofluorocarbons), that came to replace the use of toxic ammonia gas, the refrigerator replaced the icebox
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ice_house
"You might like to learn of some of the lack of the “household conveniences†of the 20’s and 30’s. We did have the electricity, but had to cook and heat with wood or coal. It was even a longer chore to heat enough water to take a bath. Refrigerators were late in coming, so we had to fill the old ice boxes with the ice from the ice house (delivered to houses about every 2 days)."
Originally Posted by some site
No chemicals were used to make ice before electrical refrigeration was invented, any more than chemicals are used to make ice now: the freezing of water is a physical change, brought about by lowering its temperature. But before refrigerators, one had to use other methods.
The simplest method was to go where there was ice and bring it back. Kings in India (and probably elsewhere) used to have snow brought to them from the mountains, as a delicacy. This is bringing ice from "elsewhere in space."
One could also bring ice from "elsewhere in time." In places where winter temperatures are routinely below freezing, ice was cut from ponds and lakes, then stored in special insulated buildings until needed. In America, the Shakers were well-known for their excellent ice-houses; these were double-walled and triple-roofed, with sawdust packed between, and more sawdust laid thickly on the floor.
Finally, one could use a little ingenuity. The Romans used to make ice in the deserts of North Africa or Palestine by taking advantage of the low humidity (and therefore the low temperatures at night). They would put what they wanted to freeze in a pit well-insulated with straw. The pit would be covered with highly-polished shields or other objects during the day, to reflect the heat of the sun; at night, the pit would be uncovered so that it could lose heat to the desert air.
The same principle was used, for example, in British India. In times and places when the nights were cold, water would be poured into molds at dusk and allowed to freeze; then, at about 3 or 4 AM, the ice would be chipped out of the molds and rushed to an ice-house.
One come a day, the water will run... no man will stand, for the things that he has done... and the water will run...
-
goo9\madsci.htm
Posted By: Dan Berger, Faculty Chemistry/Science, Bluffton College
Area of science: Science History
ID: 941414234.Sh
Message:
How can you make ice without electricity or without a fridge?
How was ice made in the past century, when there wasn't electricity? What chemical were used? and how they kept it cold?
No chemicals were used to make ice before electrical refrigeration was invented, any more than chemicals are used to make ice now: the freezing of water is a physical change, brought about by lowering its temperature. But before refrigerators, one had to use other methods.
----
goo9\doclew*.htm
in honor the most unforgettable person I've ever met, the late Dr. Herbert Clay Lewis.
by Jerry B. Roach, P.E.
in heat transfer, the final exam included the question: "The Bible describes how to make ice on the desert. Please describe the procedure and explain how it fits your knowledge of heat transfer."
No one knew the answer. Doc chuckled and told us we should read the Bible and learn that on a still, clear night in the desert, if one dug a shallow hole, lined the cavity with straw and placed a ceramic pan with a thin layer of water into the straw-lined nest, then there would be minimum conduction, little or no convection, and radiant heat transfer to outer space would control. Since outer space has an equivalent temperature of minus 400 degrees F, and radiation is governed by the difference between the absolute temperatures to the fourth power, you can truly make ice in the desert.
A quiz question I will never forget was the midterm in unit processes in organic chemistry. Doc asked us to describe the Solvay process for producing soda ash, an inorganic chemical.
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goo9\waa.htm
http://www.nau.edu/ get more of, deep-chat for dew collecting
Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:03:38 -0600
At 06:58 AM 3/15/2004, you wrote: Forum for Physics Educators .PHYS-L@lists.nau.edu> writes:
> >I assume that the colder
> >air falls to the ground so that by the side windows it is slightly
> >warmer. However, for the windshields the "ground" is the hood or rear
> >trunk and is just that much cooler.
best parts here: ? ? ?
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goo9\Rough Science 2of10, get all for here?
Series 1: Mediterranean, Series 3: New Zealand, Series 4: Death Valley
The Challenge: Make Ice
Page: 1 of 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
WARNING: The methods used by the Rough Scientists in their attempts to make ice involved the use of methanol, ethanol, acetone and ether. These are highly flammable liquids and their vapors form explosive mixtures with air.
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goo9\1401c.htm -get more of!
http://ww2.usca.edu/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/album09
http://ww2.usca.edu/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/hsgZMMtrip2002
Not only the dust, but as you see in my photos, I ALSO experienced FROST when I camped at the "Corral Springs National Forest Campground". This was 2 miles West of OR Rt. 97 about 50 miles South of La Pine. In a desert, the atmosphere is totally free of moisture, making it very transparent to infrared (radiant heat). Thus there is rapid transfer of any heat to outer space. This results in rapid cooling to point of freezing! In desert regions, prior to refrigerators, this was a common way to make ice! You have to see it to believe it!
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8-06\25\goo9\freez.htm -get more of, unusual, tech, real-situ. best yet!?
paradoxes of radiation: A seminar presented March 14, 2001
at LCCC Star Club, Cheyenne, Wyoming by Dr. Kevin T. Kilty
clips:
What's the heat transfer thing if we are outside?
The natives in many dry climates can make ice at night, even when the air temperature remains near 55°F, by exposing a shallow earthen dish of water on a high piece of ground to a clear, dry, night-time sky. In July 1995, my brother found a dead person lying atop a hill. He, too, had been exposed to a clear, dry, night-time sky; and the sherrif concluded that the person had died of exposure on a night when the air temperature in all likelihood stayed near 50°F all night. What do these have in common?
skylight.gif
Figure 4, in the upper part, shows a person outside in sunshine. It is well known that about 40-50% of heat loss from a human occurs through radiation. Therefore, radiation is very important for maintaining our body temperature. During the day there is a 6000K sphere in view that is 0.5°of arc. It is the sun. There is diffuse radiation coming from other parts of the sky as well. Also, the earth, and vegetation are warmed by the sun, and all radiate also. Thus, even if the air is not particularly warm, a person can feel comfortable on a sunny day because some object at every possible view is radiating.
Now let us examine the same situation at night. The person, having a nearly constant surface temperature radiates at the same rate as before. Skin, by the way, is nearly a blackbody at long wavelengths(e=1). But now there is no sun to radiate energy, there is little or no diffuse light from the sky, and the earth and plants are all much cooler. Does any radiation come from the sky?
The answer depends on what is in the sky. Probably the most important thing is how much water vapor is in the air? Water vapor is a very important absorber of infrared radiation, which means also that it is a very important emitter. If the air near the ground surface is very wet, then a thick layer of air will radiate just like a blackbody of the same temperature. This is why the evening cools-off so little in places like the Southeast or Midwest. If, on the other hand, the air is quite dry, as it is in Wyoming or in desert areas, then it absorbs and radiates almost nothing. In this case that 50% radiated energy from the body is a very substantial heat loss, which has to be is replaced from within the body. Is the body up to the task?
The dead person my brother found on the hilltop, had gotten his car stuck in mud during the night. As he struggled to free the car he apparently had beer to drink--quite a lot of beer i think--and he also became very warm. As he continued to wrestle the car he took off clothing. Finally he wandered up a nearby hill, with substantial blood alcohol, nearly naked, and passed out on the hill top.
Put as simply as possible the chain of causation here is...
Wyoming-->Dry, Clear, Night-time sky-->Go naked-->Die.
Keep your clothes on, folks, they make a good radiation baffle!
-
The katabatic wind: or heating by cooling.
This is not a paradox of radiation per se, but it involves radiation along the same lines as the previous paradox. Consider how air, near the ground surface, behaves on a summer night in Wyoming. The ground surface radiates to the night sky, cools rapidly, and cools the neighboring air. We have just seen that this occurs in a most pronounced way when the air is dry, as it often is in Wyoming. As this air cools it does so near a particular ground elevation. In other words, it cools at constant pressure. We can organize the ideal gas law in this situation to...
rT=constant.
The air becomes more dense as it cools along an isobar. In figure 5 as the air cools it follows the iosbar (a hyperbola) from 1 to 2. The ground probably slopes in some direction, and the air, having now become more dense flows downslope to lower elevation. It is extremely difficult to maintain static air on sloping ground when there is radiation heat transfer, and this is one reason (among millions of others) why Wyoming is windy. This wind is called a katabatic wind.
In order to understand what happens as air sinks downhill, you first must recognize that air pressure increases with lowering elevation. The reason, simply put, is that air pressure has to support the weight of all of the air above, and at lower elevation there is more air mass to support.
What happens to the parcel of air that became too dense and is now sinking down a sloping surface? Well, its pressure certainly rises, but what else occurs? The answer could become very complicated, but if we assume it sinks so rapidly that it cannot transfer heat, then the first law of thermodynamics tells us what occurs. The first law is dU=dq-dw. I know you didn't fully understand this at the time, but dU is an exact differential which is a difference of two inexact ones. The inexact differentials we can calculate only when we know how heat is transfered or work is done. In this particular case we set dq equal to zero because we are not transfering heat. The inexact differential dw is quite easy to state--if we use heat content (H) rather than internal energy (U), then the only work involved is mgdz; where m is a mass of air (who cares how much?) and g is gravitational acceleration. Ah, you will recognize no doubt, that work in this case is just like lowering a mass in physics lab. Meanwhile, the exact differential we can calculate independently of how the air arrived at its current state. Being an ideal gas (ideally that is) its heat content is just dH=mcpdT. Now reorganize this to dT/dz=-g/cp. Meteorologists call this the dry adiabatic lapse rate, and it describes how the temperature of air will change if it is moved quickly to a new elevation. It is the straight line on Figure 5. The sinking parcel of air follows this line from 2 to 3 on the diagram.
skylight.gif
So, we conclude that the sinking air will undergo a change of temperature and a change of pressure, which means its density changes. Moreover, it will not stop flowing downhill until its density equals that of the surrounding air. When will this occur, you ask? Figure 5 also shows a sort of ragged line that is meant to indicate how the state of the surrounding air varies with height. Meteorlogists call it the environmental lapse rate, and it has a value near 6C/km.
You might ask, why does the environmental lapse rate not equal the adiabatic rate? This is a good question, because it is easy for me to answer. The reason is that the envirnoment has evolved to its current state though a whole series of unknown processes, or, in other words though a whole bunch of steps of dq and dw, and the environmental lapse rate simply represents the end result of it all.
katabatic.gif
On Figure 5 I show that the sinking air stops sinking where these two curves cross. Always that happens when the sinking air reaches a greater density and higher temperature than it had when it began radiating early in the evening. The air has warmed by loosing heat! Isn't radiation weird?
Almost any summer night, you can go to the Goshen Hole country in eastern Wyoming, and feel a katabatic wind flowing down the drainages of Horse Creek and Bear Creek. In drought years, when the air is especially dry, this wind is at its most severe, as you'd expect. In these years the wind can reach 70mph and adds additional misery for crops and farmers beyond what the drought does already.
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goo9\multi*.htm
One of the most sophisticated examples of channeling natural energies in
a desert climate to create comfortable living places is the royal Hasht
Behest garden pavilion in Isfahan. In the garden, the chenar trees
provided shade, irrigated by water channels supplied from aerated chutes
which put anions into the air and cooled the water through evaporation.
The garden air was cooled both by transpiration and shade from the trees
and evaporation of the water. The pavilion itself consisted of a high
central mud brick dome with a glazed cupola, surrounded by open porches
and enclosed rooms.
In the summer, the hot sun on the outside of the vault created rising
air currents. In passing the open cupola windows, those air currents
sucked out the warm air inside the top of the dome, both removing that
heat and pulling cool air from the garden into the pavilion below. In the
winter, by merely closing the cupola windows, the warm air in the dome was
retained in the building and the sun on the outside of the dome heated it,
radiating that heat to the inside through the night. Queensland metal
roofs would benefit from that kind of ventilation.
The Persian deserts also contain strange structures - "yak-chals". These
were built for - believe it or not - making ice! Think of a more
sophisticated traditional technology developed merely from observant
living *with* the climate! The night sky is so clear that night temperatures
plunge throughout the year - but not to freezing. Yet the clear sky
provides such a clear absorbent face that shallow water pans, lifted off
the heat-retaining earth and left exposed to the sky, actually turned to
ice. The Persians, like the !Kung in the Kalahari in Africa, had
incredibly sophisticated means of finding and producing water in the
desert - from far underground, from using condensation out of the air onto
rocks, and other amazing techniques to produce water for drinking and for
agriculture.
In India, there were slight variations on these patterns. Small
pavilions or turrets were built on the tops of the walls, creating raised
places to catch the breezes and smell of distant places, and to see far
into the distance in the clear desert air.
Paolo Soleri's work in the Arizona desert in the States gives yet
another pattern. Digging down into the desert rather than building visibly
above it, he has reached for the mean temperature in the ground that
averages out daily and yearly temperature swings. There he has built,
sheltered from the strong desert winds, a series of half-domes facing
north and south. One orientation provides shade and coolness in the
summer. The other provides a solar heat trap warm space in the winter.
Why even have architecture in the desert? An aboriginal might laugh at
the architectural research performed on their dwelling patterns -
measuring the size of their wind screens and shade structures. Is there
any purpose for architecture or even buildings in the desert? Or is the
simplest wind screen and overhead shade more than enough, and their size
circumstantial and not important?
The Ndebele in Africa explore yet a different path. The surfaces of
their mud-plastered homes, which temper the daily temperatures, have
exploded with dramatic and subtle geometric design with the advent of
European paints, whitewash, and other colored materials. Instead of
leaving just "the desert" around their houses, they have created
mud-plaster floored ceremonial "porches" defined by sitting-height walls
around the houses, investing those spaces with powerful cultural meaning
and function.
And then there are the Mogul yurts and nomadic living patterns, with
seasonal shifts for pasturage, water, and temperature. Each desert yields
its own long-evolved patterns, whose wisdom can be appropriated to mesh
with both the cultural and the environmental needs of Australian people.
We have the wisdom of the whole world to draw on in making a new tradition
for this special place, so use it!
-
goo9\vcrlter.htm
ICE MAKING AT BENARES
December, January and February is the dry air season at Benares, India. It is the flow out of Asia time of the year. Thus it is the season of minimum greenhouse warming. Well, there is a better way to say that. It is the season of greatest terrestrial radiation loss to space! The Earthly greenhouse in question is not one that results in warming but rather a lessening of cooling. We really don't have any greenhouse warming here on earth but rather greenhouse gases put the breaks on radiation loss to space. It is more akin to insulating your house than stoking the fires in your furnace. Countries dominated by the Asian Monsoon have half a year with ample greenhouse gases, small to modest loss of earth light out to space, and warm nights. The other half of the year has not nearly as much greenhouse gas (H2O) in the air, earth light easily passes out to space, and cool nighttime temperatures are the rule. It is a wet air, dry air thing. Daytime temperatures don't come into this story much. High daytime temperatures are caused by the sun and moderated by evaporation, if water is available. Our story on ice making in Benares is all about the time when the sun is below the horizon: night. My report on Benares is extracted from the Transactions of the Royal Society MDCCXCIII:56-58 and MDCCXCIII: 129-131. by J. LL. Williams. The LL. stood for Lloyd in the late 18th century. The J for John. John was an Esquire at Benares, India. LL.'s paper was read to the Royal Society by William Marsden, Esq. F. R. S. on February 14, 1793 and May 2, 1793 respectively.
LL. notes that even with temperatures that run from 95 to 100 F in the shade the 18th century, locals at Seerore near Benares where LL. lived made lots of ice. Seerorens made their ice on a nearly level plot of some 4 acres. The plot was divided into squares about 5 feet on a side with raised borders. The sunken squares were filled with dry straw or sugar-cane haum. On each bed of hewn and dried standing biomass, broad, shallow pans of unglazed earth were set. The pans, 4 acres of them (~100,000 pans) were then filled with water. This was all hand work as pumps, pipes, valves, hoses and the like were not yet invented. A team of some 300 men, women and children did this work. The clay pans, being highly porous, wetted throughout and were ready for evaporation. To make it easy to get the ice out when it formed, the insides of the clay pans were rubbed with butter! The pans had to be rebuttered about every 4 hours during the night. Ice harvesting began around 5 in the morning. If the straw under the pans got wet, no ice would form. The 300 men, women and children had to be ready to replace the straw or reeds during the night if needed. LL. reports that air temperatures at night rarely fell below 40 F. LL. also notes that if there were but the slightest wind no ice would form. The wind part is easy. On clear, calm nights air temperatures near the surface increase with height above the ground. Add a little wind and you mix the warm air from aloft with the cold air at the surface and it doesn't get cold enough to permit the ice to form. Fans and helicopters are used to prevent frost in orchards. Keep the air mixed and prevent frost at the surface. The ice makers of Seerore used well water to fill their pans. The pans had to be filled by dusk so that there would be a maximum of hours of cooling. The pans were filled in the afternoon. Under the hot mid-day sun the water in the pans would warm. Not so. Well water at Seerore used in the ice making season is about 74 F. So during the course of the night water temperatures in the pan fell 42 F! During the day, while the pans were being filled, evaporation prevented the water in the pans from warming in the 95 F heat. In fact the temperatures fell from well water temperatures of 74 F to around 68 F. When the clay pans get old their pores get filled with "gunk" and were not porous enough to permit maximum evaporation. The water in these old pans would warm to 88 F. Pan fillers could tell when the pots were getting too old and needed to be replaced by placing an experienced finger in to the water late in the afternoon. Seerorens were great advocates of evaporation and its "frigorific" effect. Seerorens used tatties to keep their homes cool. Tatties are mats of fresh green bushes or long roots. Tatties were hung in the windows and doorways. Their tatties were kept wet. Air passing through would evaporate the water and cool markedly as it made its way into the house.
HOW GOOD ARE TATTIES?
Seerore's tatties seemed to work well. Here is some data from 1792. [In the latter part of the 18th century you could buy thermometers. Jefferson bought his on July 4, 1776. Recreational temperature measurement was the rage!] May 16 and June 7, 1792. 2 PM local time Seerore. Hot days with westerly winds. May 16 June 7 Thermometer in the sun.. 118 F 113 F Thermometer in the shade. 110 F 104 F Thermometer in tattied house. 87 F 83 F So we might ask the question, How hot could a well tattied Seeroren house get? My guess is around 92 F (the Priestly Taylor Temperature) as at temperatures this high or higher effectively all the heat flux from the tatties would be due to latent heat and sensible heating would go to zero. Anyway good tatties will win you some 20 F of cooling. The price you pay for having good tatties is that you humidify the house as you cool it! If the tatties even came close to saturating the air in the house then it would be like living in a penal sugarcane field in Queensland, Australia if British or perhaps on Devils Island if French.
more on ice-crystal, snow-flakes, leafing-out -humidity, not put -here- try: Long Term Ecological Research Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 18:12:10 GMT
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goo9\hindu.txt
.The Process of Making Ice in the East Indies>. - By Sir Robert Barker
.published in 1775>
Following is the method that was used to make ice in India as it was
performed at Allahabad and Calcutta. On a large open plain, 3 or 4
excavations were made, each about 30 feet square and two deep; the bottoms
of which were strewed about eight inches or a foot thick with sugar-cane,
or the stems of the large Indian corn dried. Upon this bed were placed in
rows, near to each other, a number of small shallow, earthen pans for
containing the water intended to be frozen. These are unglazed, scarce a
quarter of an inch thick, about an inch and a quarter in depth, and made
of an earth so porous, that it was visible, from the exterior part of the
pans, the water had penetrated the whole substance. Towards the dusk of
the evening, they were filled with soft water, which had been boiled, and
then left in the afore-related situation. The ice-makers attended the
pits usually before the sun was above the horizon, and collected in
baskets what was frozen, by pouring the whole contents of the pans into
them, and thereby retaining the ice, which was daily conveyed to the grand
receptacle or place of preservation, prepared generally on some high dry
situation, by sinking a pit of fourteen or fifteen feet deep, lined first
with straw, and then with a coarse king of blanketing, where it is beat
down with rammers, till at length its own accumulated cold again freezes
and forms one solid mass. The mouth of the pit is well secured from the
exterior air with straw and blankets, in the manner of the lining, and a
thatched roof is thrown over the whole.
.[i]>
* Ice making in India. It was made in open pans.
****The spongy nature of the sugar-canes, or stems of the Indian corn,
appears well calculated to give a passage under the pans to the cold air;
which, acting on the exterior parts of the vessels, may carry off by
evaporating a proportion of the heat. The porous substance of the vessels
seems equally well qualified for the admission of the cold air internally;
and their situation being full of a foot beneath the plane of the ground,
prevents the surface of the water from being ruffled by any small current
of air, and thereby preserves the congealed particles from disunion.
Boiling the water is esteemed a necessary preparative to this method of
congelation.
In effecting which there is also an established mode of proceeding; the
sherbets, creams, or whatever other fluids are intended to be frozen, are
confined in thin silver cups of a conical form, containing about a pint,
with their covers well luted on with paste, and placed in a large vessel
filled with ice, salt-petre, and common salt, of the two the last an
equal quantity, and a little water to dissolve the ice and combine the
whole. This composition presently freezes the contents of the cups to the
same consistency of our ice creams, etc. in Europe; but plain water will
become so hard as to require a mallet and knife to break it. The promising
advantages of such a discovery could alone induce the Asiatic to make an
attempt of profiting by so a very short a duration of cold during the
night in these months, and by a well-timed and critical contrivance of
securing this momentary degree of cold, they have procured to themselves a
comfortable refreshment as a recompence, to alleviate, in some degree, the
intense heats of the summer season, which, in some parts of India, would
be scarce supportable, but by the assistance of this and many other
inventions.
(source: .Indian Science and Technology in the 18th Century - By
.Dharampal> p. 169-173). htm may have pictures. + links
-
article.htm
slashdot.org? vortex-tube ice
-no end-
Thank you for all the great posts
so adorable! they do look like
The dress is great, all the posts here about that pattern have prompted me and it looks like you did a very professional job. thermal pallet covers
It is topped with a thick, long-lasting fiberglass wick, and a snuffer cap on a chain to quickly put the flame out. It can burn for up to five hours, using lamp oil or citronella oil.
I try to read this work. I have missed you and the blog and now i am out giggles when we should be planned the core values for a brownsville middle school.
Great thoughts you got there, believe I may possibly try just some of it throughout my daily life.
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